Schnellboot - My Build of Jack's Robbe S130.                                     
Part 8 - What you can't see...

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Click on photos to enlarge.
 

Hi All,

After coming down from all the glue fumes from last week, I've revaluated the deck joint situation.

I think that the Robbe 'run Super-glue down the joint' method would work quite well;
1. If a lot of care is taken. 2. If I had to do it again ("Noooooo!"), I would trim a bit more off the out edge of the deck 'trough' so I could better see where the glue had grabbed, 3, Also probe the joint to see where the hull moved - therefore not stuck, 4, Used ten times as many rubber bands or tape and 5, finally check the deck level with a laser to ensure flatness before gluing!
 


 

While not building the S130 I do just a bit of 'web surfing',.

I found good site a few weeks ago a site  -
http://www.schnellboot.net/
Although not a S130 ( actually a Graupner Weisel ) he knew all about the Robbe S130. I asked how that deck was joined to the hull and he sent me the following reply:....


 

'Hello Martin,
If you have problems with the front side and bridge, that is quite normal by  that kit! To fix is  simple. I worked from front to back with wood, ins square 2 - 3 mm. Its not whole wood, a lot of parts inch by inch. At first at the hull, cement that wood parts, sometime the have to sharpen them correct for the deck.
If the deck looks good, also seconds-cement. Wait 24 hours, then make as second insurance silicon hull-wood-deck. Rest is prime and sharpen.
I built one as S130, second as after war version from the German Bundesmarine. Normally a third should be follow, to build a sister ship of S130 with different bridge with less amour and weapons, but I got free house with nothing to by a Schaffer S80 Schnellboot from an old Schnellboot-Fahrer of WW2.

Best Regards from Hamburg
Klaus Gaeth
 

Another comment about the build seen on  the www.modelboats.co.uk forum was...

'I've read your S130 saga with such horror that if I had any hair left it would certainly have turned white instantly.   How Robbe could produce such a thing beats me, and if you work out the hours spent on the job once you have finished I bet the answer will be a record for any of your boats.  All fingers crossed and prayers for a happy conclusion...'

McNab -
A man on my wavelength! - Mayhem

Another....

"When are you come to the point of launching the E- BOAT, are you going to tie a breeze  block to it and throw  it in! - Anon!" - Hmmm, maybe! - Mayhem
 

Probably the best about German E-boats is....
   http://www.prinzeugen.com/ 


Lots and lots of useful stuff about the original and all the E-boats. I used this site quite a bit this week checking how things when together and where - the Robbe plans are not at there best here!  

http://www.prinzeugen.com/Plans.htm
Also interesting is how far out the Robbe boats is from the real thing!!!

 

Back to the boatyard.
Now that the deck was actually attached to the hull, and quite firmly now I might add, 'Bradders'  said the next job was fix in place the cockpit, /  bridge / control dome .... whatever! I must again point out that this is not the sequence that Robbe recommend but by now we we're on autopilot and using the instructions as a cutting mat!
 

 

The Control dome require careful alignment as the eye is always drawn towards the bridge as on all boats, so beam 'squarness' and longitudinal 'correctness' are vital. ( I hope my school English teach doesn't  read this page! )


 
'Bradders' carefully measured, trimmed the two trailing control dome sides 3 times before gluing.

 
'Bradders' was in full by now and we both working long after work hours.

..... I say "We" in the sense of  the Royal "We". 'Bradders' was actually doing all the hard stuff. Every modeller should have a 'Bradders' on hand.!


 

The control dome was glued in with Plumbers solvent cement - on the flat deck and under the foredeck. The Port side of the control dome didn't quite meet the side of the deck (what a surprise!), so had to be held while gluing. For extra strength the side were glued with Devcon 'Plastic welder'.

Here I'm using my 'Bradders' as a very nimble hand clamp!
 


 
Next we had to re-test the filler we had decided on -  ISOPON Bumper Fill.
It turns out (when mixed correctly!) to be easy to apply, smooth, sand AND it sticks to ABS!

www.u-pol.com
http://www.u-pol.com/countries/en/navigate.htm

 
'Bradders' boldly applied the first layer of filler....

 
We had already keyed (roughed up) the surface quite heavily to ensure a good adhesion.

 
The other side was also done at the same time.

 
Not wanting me getting in his way, 'Bradders' told me to get on with the 'hard bits'.

The torpedoes are Airfix type plastic kits, not a brilliant kit, but good enough to fool the British Navy at close range!

 
This is the front 2Cm AA Gun before and after.

The mount is not very scale but that what come in the kit!


 
This is the  amidships Twin AA Gun.

A few more photos here would have saved a lot of 'faffing' about.
 

 
The biggest gun is the stern 4cm AA Gun.

Again the instructions are very misleading., I spent ages looking for a round part 11.3. In the dustbin, under the desk, on the shelves, everywhere. After a very careful process of elimination, this part is square not round - not shown on the plans though!
 

 
The guns finished, they didn't look too bad!

OK, so they are not going to win and scale competitions but they did look like guns which was a lot more than I was expecting!!!


 
Next, the first bit of tricky brass work, the bow gun well rail.

 7 attempts later I got it looking like what is should!

 

 
The bridge structure & forward hatch..

Nearly nice and simple, but nothing whiskey couldn't help with!


 
Most parts in place on the bridge structure and more rails bent to shape.

 

 
Right I'm off to 'Bradders' place this weekend to give the bows a final fill and rub down and a coat of primer.

Fingers crossed!
 

Well all this just my opinion, but what do I know!
                                         

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