Spike Hughes
A Robbe Antji  (Moses)  
 

 
   

Robbe Antji 2 "Moses"  - Model number three.

"A 'Tail' of Corks, Black Silk and White Knicker Elastic"

On this occasion, despite the sub-title of this article, the boat was not procured for her looks (see Lady Anne and HumBug) but as the build progressed, her comely appearance grew on me even if they it failed to charm the wife.

A friend recommended her to me because of her long a running time (over an hour), single propeller (simplified running gear), and as a 'first build' powered model, was within a 'beginners' modelling experience. The kit  was bought mainly as a utility craft to rescue HumBug in the event of her turning turtle. This will be done by trailing a length of line, which is threaded with corks behind Moses. Then by encircling and grappling the upturned craft, Moses will drag her back to the shore...... hence the name “MOSES”.  'He who parted the water to lead his followers to the safety of the Promised Land '.  

 All in all, the build, apart from my customisation, was straightforward and there are only a few, but important, points....

Firstly....
If you are planning to buy the auxiliary fittings pack containing amongst other things the deck planking, do so when buying the kit, as retrofitting it is not a thing I would advise.

Secondly...
The method of installing the motor (complete with gearbox), the green plastic motor mount, and the gluing of the prop shaft through the hull opening, needs looking at in detail.

A brass tube is temporarily utilised to enable the correct spacing, alignment, fitting and gluing of the above components. It should be cut to a length of (55mm) as stated in the instructions, NOT (60mm) as per the plan.  This tube will later be used as the top of the exhaust pipe. The Robbe "navy coupling" (which is a right pain to assemble) will replace the "exhaust pipe" spacer once the motor mount and the prop shaft have been fitted and glued in place.

 When installing the above, my advise is to temporarily 'Bluetack' the red gearbox complete with motor to the green plastic motor mount. Manufacture from scrap, a wooden motor support to fit athwart ships, under the motor casing and towards the opposite end from the gearbox. This helps to align the motor and doubles as an extra securing point.

 Glue the prop shaft assembly in place ensuring it protrudes to the correct length from the rear of the keel, as well as the plastic motor mount and the wooden support to the hull with the spacer tube in place between gearbox and prop shaft assembly. Make sure the prop shaft and motor are in line and rotates freely.

 Allow the epoxy glue to fully set then remove the 'Bluetacked' motor / gearbox assembly from the motor mount. Remove the spacer tube and replaced it with the "navy coupling" then epoxy the motor / gearbox assembly to the motor mount. Secure motor to the additional wooden support. Again allow the glue to fully set.

 I do advise that you do a few dry runs of the motor instillation until you fully understand where everything fits and when, otherwise you may inadvertently end up gluing the spacer tube in place permanently, which will mean you have a static model.

Also, drill the lubrication hole in the gearbox, clearing any swarf & debris as lubricating  once installed is impossible!

 Thirdly....
When the rudder and stock are in place, the height at which the stock is cut is 50mm below the gunwale NOT 40mm as stated in the instructions. (See photo 1 in the German instructions.)

Customisation.
The deck was caulked using the wife's black embroidery silk, (which resulted in a couple of interesting days of matrimonial silence). Two hanks were sufficient. They were cut into three foot lengths and soaked in Bostik, a water-based glue, to bond the individual strands of silk together and hung up to dry. Once dry they were fairly rigid and easy to handle. The silks were progressively butted and glued (Bostik) in place against the planks, as the wooden deck was super-glued in place to the sub-deck. Four coats of Robbe Wood Wax was applied to seal and waterproof timbers and caulking. 

I planked the space between the rubbing strips with walnut. Fixed them with super-glue and finished with satin varnish. All wooden deck furniture was made from mahogany instead of stained softwood and an extra bollard was installed aft to take the screwed ring bolt to which the towline is attached.

 The masts were stepped and glued in place. As I hate the look of slack standing rigging I cheated and used black knicker elastic instead of cord. That way the shrouds are kept ship shape by keeping them under slight tension (having raided the wife’s sewing box yet again, the rigging was not the only thing suffering from slight tension).

 The On/Off switch is mounted and recessed into the base of the aft companionway thereby allowing full access through the aft hatch for lubrication and adjustments.

 I attached grab rails (2mm brass rod), to the wheelhouse and fitted it out with the wheel and binnacle left over from the Lady Anne build. I used 15mm cleats throughout instead of manufacturing the kit's own brass ones.

 Yellow beads were purchased that were more to scale then the originals as net floats and I cut rubber grommets in half to represent ground gear. These were threaded on to the bridles and they, in turn, were then attached to the otter boards.

 The winch warps from the otter boards are also knicker elastic (white) with small hooks attached. These hooks attach to the front of the winch and facilitates easy removal of the wheelhouse when recharging the battery.  I scratch built a gaff rig aft to improve the boat's profile. This also enabled me to move the ensign aft to keep it out the way when removing the wheelhouse.

Reflections....
 What started out as purely a means to an end, ended up as a very interesting and satisfying model to build.  And as the wife remarked when nearing completion. ”You have spent so much time titivating it (adding fine scale, to us modellers), the only thing that boat will drag anywhere is you down to the water”. For once marital harmony reigned supreme. we were in agreement.

 Now about this HumBug rescue boat I need to buy and build………?

  Model reviewed in MMI March 2001 by Steve Beasley who I thank for highlighting the mistakes with regard to the length of the spacer tube and rudder stock and general advice.

Rating: Robbe Antji 2: - overall 4 stars out of five

Instructions and plans: - let themselves down because of basic errors that could fowl up in a big way what is otherwise a good kit. Come on Robbe, either correct the mistakes or at least put an addendum in the instructions.

 Dealer: - Westbourne Models. Great as normal. (ESC with a faulty solenoid was replaced within 24 hours without hassle).