Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[salty Nscaler]

Not willing to pay the price hobby shops are asking for a spray booth I came up with this little gem, its made from 1/2"BCX plywood and is 21"x24"x23 1/2" (16" to the filter)the force is a 6" in-line duct fan rated at 280 CFM both the light and fan are hard wired to a common light switch.Only thing left to do is get a 10" pine board and bore a 6" hole in it and install it in my shop window

"With safety being the highest priority, we have no control over or cannot predict any loss or damage
 following this post may incur, whatever they may be.  This information does not necessarily reflect the views or policies of the
Model Boat Mayhem, it's owner or moderators or other forum members. They solely represent the personal opinion of the forum
member making the post. Model Boat Mayhem makes no representation concerning these opinions and does not guarantee the source,
originality, accuracy,completeness or reliability of any statement, information, data, finding, interpretation, advice, opinion, or view
represented."

[Roger in France]

Is your extractor protected? You may need to think about concentrated, inflammable fumes passing through it?

Stavros (Resident Paint Spraying Expert) may want to comment.

Roger in France.

[salty Nscaler]

Hi Roger, I guess I forgot about that part ! I am using a motor that is not insulated !!!  I have used this type with no problem so far I think the key is making sure I do all my painting at one time and then let it run,where the problem is (as I think) is when one shuts off the unit and then turns it's back on that is when you may have an issues.

[Reade Models]

It looks great, but how do you get your car inside it?

 

Malc

[salty Nscaler]

My truck no longer fits in my shop I have my home layout in there and all the other projects that I am working on size wise I deal in N scale 1:160 so its way big I'm clearing a section of my shop to be the" shipyard" for when my tug kit gets here

[TugCowboy]

Excellent! I too refuse to pay shop prices and knocked my own spraying station up, for the sake of a couple of sheets of wood and some time with a drill I really don't see why any modeler would ever pay for such a thing!

Alex

[salty Nscaler]

Alex, Most of the one's I was looking at be it on-line or a shop or a catalog began base line at $299.95 then you have to buy "THERE " filters which adds up really fast, the filters I use cost $6.00 for a 3 pac.I place one in front as seen in the pic and a second one behind and then move them forward as I need to.

Larry

[salty Nscaler]

Forgot the one thing this entire set up cost me $89.78 and about 10 hrs labor

[ronkh]

Salty Nscaler,

Could of done with that this morning. Varnished my boat and primed a stand for it. What a stink and took a while to come down from ceiling!!
Cheaper then booze though.

Ron.

[Dave Buckingham]

Hi
I used a free cooker hood that was being throw away.

Boxed in and lead outside worth it weight in gold.

If using spray cans put a filter in front and be ready for
a shock at the amount of paint it collects.

Dave

[Stavros]

All I can say is ARGH



 IT IS AN ACCIDENT WAITING TO HAPPEN



It does not matter one bit that you have switched everything on before spraying,you have and by your own addmission are using and I quote I am using a motor that is not insulated!!!!!!!!!!!!!Not only that but I would hazard a guess that the light is not vapour proof as well.


IN MY PROFESSIONAL OPINION IT IS A TIME BOMB STOP USING IT BEFORE YOU GET SERIOUSLY HURT.

If for any reason it exploded and burnt you house down or shed well it's BY BY INSURANCE.



If anyone is planning to copy this well my advise to you is DON'T...............BUT if you do well buy a totally vapour/gas proof Fan and also a Proper Flame proof light they are available but expensive,but is your life worth it



Stavros

[ronkh]

Well put Stavros,

I am an operator of grinding machines and it still amazes me just how many people buy a hand-grinder (bench-top grinder), and use them in totally the wrong way. Blunt wheels, heavy side-grinding, no guards, no eye-protection, hands too close, etc, etc.

Pity brains (including my own) do not come with automatic health warnings!!

Ron.

[Bill D203]

Hi
As A spraybooth engineer for my living, I can see why you should NOT use this. However if you like big BANGS then carry on. You need proper sealed to current standards motors, Flash Prof light fittings, Flash prof electrical switches. You then need proper dry extraction filters. the cardboard filters DO NOT meet the EPA standards. The ext duct need to go out through your roof and must be 3 meters above your roof. Your plastic fan will melt when the solvent fumes come into contact with it. I could go on but I'm not going to. IN SHORT DON'T USE IT.

[salty Nscaler]

Hey Everyone,I would like to thank Roger,Stavros and Martin for your input its all good guys 

[salty Nscaler]

Hi Dave, a few guys I know that model in N scale have built a rig like your chatting about most built a plywood box fitted it on top  and used a different filter system and vented it also

[warspite]

PLEASE oh PLEASE at least change the fan to a bifurcated type, this means placing the 'impeller' in the airstream BUT THE MOTOR OUTSIDE OF THE AIRSTREAM, either by 'Vee' belting the impeller to the motor, of (bifurcating) split the airstream to go around the motor on either side
 

[Reade Models]

The Regulations governing explosive atmospheres are here:

http://www.hse.gov.uk/fireandexplosion/atex.htm

The Regulations mainly relate to an Employer's obligations, but there is a PDF about halfway down the page which explains hazardous area zoning - It doesn't really matter whether an employer is involved or not, the same principles apply (to keep the user healthy/alive).

Cellulose dust in suspension in an enclosed air space like a spray booth will likely be classified as a Zone 1 area (I'd have to do the calcs to confirm) - the equipnent within that space would in that case either have to be intrinsically safe (insufficient power to generate a spark), or incapable of transmitting the volatile atmosphere to any apparatus within the hazardous atmosphere which might be an ignition source.

Open frame fan motors are CERTAINLY a no-no, as would be all uncertified lighting fittings and switches.

Malc

PS - Sorry I didn't pick up on this in an earler post - I hadn't imagined that anybody would construct anything so potentially dangerous...

(I spend most of my days at the moment doing hazardous area classification studies in the petro-chem industry - currently working on Ethanol blending on BP supply terminals across the UK).

[Martin (Admin)]

Would 1 or 2 computer 80mm 12volt fan be a safer idea?

[salty Nscaler]

Hi Martin,I am using a 120 volt fan motor now that you said that I could take my old modem about and pull out the fans sounds like a good winter project I like I need more.To bad I didn't hook up with you guys when I lived in Scotland would have had tons of boats going back cross the pond

Larry

[Reade Models]

I went to bed last night thinking about how this spray booth could be made safe for use without spending the sort of money on it that the correctly rated fans/lighting/switches would imply.

The solution isn't pretty.  Mind you, neither is the present arrangement, but this would be a LOT safer to use:

1)  Turn the whole box around so that what is presently the air intake filter effectively becomes the exhaust, venting the booth through the window.
2)  Fit another smaller filter over the circular duct (now in the workshop).
3)  Re-install the fan so that it pushes fresh air INTO the booth, rather than pulling spray particle-laden air through the fan.
4)  Remove ALL electrics/lighting from inside the booth.
5)  Make a cut-out in the roof (or side) of the booth and install a gasketted sheet of clear perspex/acrylic to form a window.
6)  Mount the light fitting OUTSIDE the booth, shining it THROUGH the perspex window to illuminate the inside.

This way, the electrics are taken out of contact with volatile vapours within the cabinet, but it should still only be used with extreme care.

7)  Don't try to hold me responsible if it all ends in tears.

Regards,

Malc

[salty Nscaler]

Hey Warspite, You know that would be a easy fix I could cut a new pc of ducting then open one side place the motor to the right and mount the fan inside the ducting.Knowing me being a pack rat I may have a fan motor laying around one of the sheds,living on a ranch in the boondocks you learn not to throw anything away thanks again!
Larry

[Reade Models]

Salty

It occurs to me that your having quoted costs for this project in dollars that you are 'across the pond'?  When I made my main post on this thread, I incorrectly assumed that you were in the UK and quoted a link to the UK Government Regulations.  Please accept my apologies.

As I understand, the American Regulations for explosive atmospheres are pretty much the same as ours here in the UK, and it is VITAL that you separate the electrics from any contact with the vapor (spelled your way) created by spraying.

To give you an idea how dangerous volatile gases can be: (and this is hilarious):

My old boss, Dick Harrison, now long gone, bless him, had renovated his kitchen and moved the gas cooker from one side of the room to the other.  He had run a copper gas pipe under the new floor with the end sticking up in the new position.

He tried to re-connect the cooker but found that the new gas pipe was too long, so he cut it off with a hacksaw.  Copper filings went down the pipe as he cut it off and he wanted to remove these befiore making the final connection.  He tried to blow the filings out by turning the gas on, but the flow rate wasn't high enough.

His next move was to use the vacuum cleaner - an Electrolux cylinder model.  He put the hose nozzle over the end of the gas pipe and switched it on.  The vacuum pulled the residual gas from the new copper pipe into the vacuum cleaner.  As the gas hit the motor, it exploded and he was left holding the vacuum hose still connected to what was left of the plastic end cap of the Electrolux.

The remainder of the vacuum cleaner flew down his hallway and demolished his front door.  The Electrolux cylinder tube was found in the street, with the ends peeled back like a banana.

(Can you see why we're all concerned for your safety)?

Malc

[salty Nscaler]

Malc, Hey your good not to worry about it.In the UK you run gas Thur copper ???? and he used a hacksaw instead of a pipe cutter sorry to hear that he passed. Over here we must run it thur black pipe?? now that is scary even to me but let me take this time to  thank you and all for pointing out that this is not the best way to shoot paint
Larry

[Bill D203]

Re this Spraybooth. DON'T DO IT. It's a Bomb that will go off. Buy one it is cheaper then your LIFE. I don't want to tell your WIFE you are dead

[sheerline]

I have been reading this with interest and agree that this setup is very dodgy. There could be another way of creating a vacuum in a tube using some primitive and basic components without having any of the ignition sources in the airstream. I created a venturi effect using a vacuum cleaner set to blow rather than suck and the airflow was pretty fierce. I took a straight piece of pipe, one end of which was connected to the 'blow' pipe of the machine. Half way along the pipe, I cut a hole and fed another pipe into it at a very shallow angle so the whole thing looked rather like the letter'y'. As the air rushes down the long pipe, it creates a partial vacuum in the added angled pipe and this way, none of the fumes were in anyway in contact with the electrical potential for fire. It worked but I have no doubt it would not conform to any stringent safety rules found in this modern world.

The beauty of this system is that the source of air pressure (vacuum cleaner) could be remote from the area of work and also of exhausting fumes. The  only hazard I could forsee at the time was the possibility of the cleaner motor blowing up and in a disaster scenario sending a giant ball of flame hurtling down the pipe at the exact moment I was spraying and at the exact moment the vapour concentration in the pipe was at the exact air /fuel ratio sufficient to cause some kind of backfire. For the amount of spraying I as a modeller ever got through I figured it was safe enough for my purposes. As an added precaution, I did earth the metal pipes to prevent static build up and possible electrical discharge as this can be a real hazard in high speed airflows.
I just know you chaps will condemn me to death for this one...Stavros, do your worst.