Topic: Whiplash Hydro Build (Read 96452 times)

martno1fan · « **Reply #25 on:** January 27, 2009, 11:47:00 am »

Well i am Glenn nice work keep the pics coming

.
Mart

w3bby · « **Reply #26 on:** January 27, 2009, 08:12:18 pm »

Watching with interest Glenn

das boot · « **Reply #27 on:** January 27, 2009, 08:16:09 pm »

Quote from: w3bby on January 27, 2009, 08:12:18 pm

Watching with interest Glenn

Same as that..

Rich

omra85 · « **Reply #28 on:** January 27, 2009, 10:16:40 pm »

Glenn
With 329 reads, there are a lot of us watching with interest - just don't stray TOO far to the "dark side"

Danny

glennb2006 · « **Reply #29 on:** January 27, 2009, 10:20:33 pm »

Don't worry Danny - I will be back soon enough.

Not much progress tonight - I ran out of sticks!

Glenn

glennb2006 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:26:06 am »

OK, back to it again, my package of sticks came through the post from SLEC today. All good.

So got to cutting some triangular shaped braces for between the hull sides and the bulheads in the critical and high stress areas, the engine bay, radio box, nose and the turn fin area on bulkhead 7. When you see the turn fin, you will see why this is going to be a high stress area, it is huge!!

The blocks can be seen in the background.

Some shots showing the 1/8" stick that is added to increase the glueing area for the sponson skins.

And a close up.

You can get the idea on how it's all held together!

I have used the West Systems slow curing epoxy on these areas to get as much strength as I can into the sponsons. The epoxy should be cured by tomorrow, when it is, I will block sand all the sponson framework to ensure the surfaces are flat, then the sponson skins will be fitted. Not worked out how to do that yet, might need some more clamps!!

I also have the nose to fit, which should not be difficult, but to ensure the hull is as streamlined as is possible, I want to try to "let in" the bottom sheet of the boat into the nose block, which is oak and hence hard as bell metal. It will need a groove machined into the back bottom edge to accomodate the ply, then cut the ply a bit shorter. There is no top sheet on this block as the epoxy glass cover goes all the way forward and into the nose block.

If anyone has any good ideas on how to put the groove into the nose block, then please shout, I am all ears.

So far it is going OK, a few anomalies with the instructions which were ironed out by a couple of emails to the boat designer, it is becoming quite rigid now.

Enjoy!!

Glenn

martno1fan · « **Reply #31 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:45:11 am »

Looks good Glenn when you say groove do you just mean a shoulder or recess like this pic or an actual groove? id use a tennon saw or failing that try the hacksaw they cut hardwood well but be carefull.Maybe an easier way would be to get some ply and cut it the same size as the nose less the thickness of the bottom sheet and glue it to the nose then that will creat a recess for the sheet to sit on hope that makes sense,heres a pic of what i mean.
Mart

glennb2006 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 03, 2009, 11:53:46 am »

A recess is more of an accurate description I think Martin, it's just a bit tricky with the piece being quite small and the job being delicate - I'll get there though I am sure. A friend has a milling machine at work, I am tempted!

Epoxy nearly gone off from last nights work, so will be off again soon to start the sponsons.

Glenn

martno1fan · « **Reply #33 on:** February 03, 2009, 12:43:57 pm »

I think my idea will work just rienforce the join with triangular stock on the inside or glass tape etc.Keep up the good work its getting there.
Mart

w3bby · « **Reply #34 on:** February 03, 2009, 01:38:35 pm »

Quote from: glennb2006 on February 03, 2009, 11:53:46 am

A recess..

I'd call it a step

If (as it appears to be) flat then a file should work, I know it's not as high tech as a mill but can be just as accurate.
Moving along nicely, I used to get frustrated at times waiting for West to harden before moving on but it prevents stress overload.....

glennb2006 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 03, 2009, 07:52:01 pm »

A step is accurate, this is going to cause me some loss of sleep - think I will go to the pub and ponder the dilema of which is the best way to incorporate this!!

The epoxy delay is not too bad - I am used to it now, it just slows everything up.

Going to begin the sponsons tomorrow, when complete, the hardware can go on.

Glenn

dan · « **Reply #36 on:** February 03, 2009, 08:00:07 pm »

hi glenn,
im following with great intrest and the potos are fantastic, its coming along realy well!
can i ask where you got it from?

w3bby · « **Reply #37 on:** February 03, 2009, 08:27:11 pm »

Dan, it comes from Blazer Marine in the USA
http://www.blazermarine.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=6
Very popular in the US and reportedly very fast and stable

dan · « **Reply #38 on:** February 03, 2009, 08:33:39 pm »

thanks for the info

martno1fan · « **Reply #39 on:** February 03, 2009, 09:55:03 pm »

Wow $240 plus the cowl is $60 extra

,my zipp only costs $179 and it came with an epoxy cowl and a turn fin i didnt realise the Blazers cost so much

.Joes new tunnel looks good too for the price .
Mart
check out the zippkits here Dan

http://www.zippkits.com/

glennb2006 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 04, 2009, 07:20:18 am »

Don't forget the shipping too Mart!

Speak with Brian or email him, he might do you a deal if you are interested.....

If more than one of you decide to build then for sure postage can be saved. Or he might even sell the plans, then thye could be cut on a laser cutter over here which will save money.

Glenn

glennb2006 · « **Reply #41 on:** February 04, 2009, 09:17:37 am »

Quote from: martno1fan on February 03, 2009, 09:55:03 pm

Wow $240 plus the cowl is $60 extra ,my zipp only costs $179 and it came with an epoxy cowl and a turn fin i didnt realise the Blazers cost so much .Joes new tunnel looks good too for the price .
Mart
check out the zippkits here Dan
http://www.zippkits.com/

Just a point on the price of the Whip and the Zipp price - not really comparing like for like, a lot of what you are paying for on the Whip is the design, testing and development that has gone into this hull. It has won a lot of races.

That is not to criticise the Zipp Kits stuff. I have not seen any close up to comment.

Cheers.

Glenn

martno1fan · « **Reply #42 on:** February 04, 2009, 10:29:42 am »

Glenn the same goes for the zipps he spent over a year testing the design as with all his designs .As regards races won ,the zipp is as fast if not faster than the blazer shovel i have that on good authority,its probably the fastest of the roundnoses.It had superb results at the winternats in florida in 2008.Its so fast its been run in sports hydro class with moddified zenoahs and it has run against the whipplash and others and done pretty well especially when the water is rough,speeds are in exess of 65 mph in race trim.I was one of the first to try a fully modified zenoah in one

.Joe tends to keep his prices low as most of his kits are aimed at people who are either just starting out as with the easy vee or people who just cant afford to buy a glass hull.His price doesnt reflect all that testing and design work though as it is under $170 and that includes glass cowl.Shipping is not so bad either when you consider that they are now available in Europe now through MHZ Germany

.Thats said mine cost me $60 shipping from the states i think i know it was reasonable at the time but it might have been a tad more.No import taxes for gifts and puzzles as you know

.He also has a cat and a sports piccklefork hydro kit coming very soon too so the whiplash better watch out because knowing Joe he wont release it till he knows its going to be very fast.I was told it will be arround the same price as his other kits at arround $170 and all his kits include cowls and turn fins.He even threw in a strut with mine for good measure.By the way Glenn i can send you a copy of the orlando thunderboat nats if you want as i have a copy here you can have.
Mart
heres rockett running in sports hydro against aeromarine thunderbolts i think.right click and savethen open if the links dont work for you.
http://www.webdrgraphics.com/boatvideos/sport_hydro1.wmv

http://www.webdrgraphics.com/boatvideos/sport_hydro.wmv

glennb2006 · « **Reply #43 on:** February 05, 2009, 01:47:26 am »

Back to the subject matter. A few bits and pieces coming together toward completion, coupling and shaft etc arrived so that can now be installed.

Going OK - sponson skins this weekend!

Glenn

w3bby · « **Reply #44 on:** February 06, 2009, 06:44:41 pm »

Disappointed Glenn, a post stating progress with no pics

Looking forward to this weekends accomplishments

glennb2006 · « **Reply #45 on:** February 07, 2009, 03:38:58 am »

Quote from: w3bby on February 06, 2009, 06:44:41 pm

Disappointed Glenn, a post stating progress with no pics Looking forward to this weekends accomplishments

Sorry about that Ian. I aim to please! So, without further ado, some pictures!

This is the port side first sponson skin fitted.

This one the outermost Starboard skin being glued into place.

Closer shot. Note the use of atmospheric lighting to enhance drama of glueing wood together. (Does that sound anywhere near convincing?)

Some of the drive train hardware:
Strut by Speedmaster.
Flex shaft by Dave Marles.
Stuffing tube by Dave Marles
Prop by Chris Hoffman
Rubber bush - crept into shot - by Ian Folkson.

And an engine - this is a Zenoah 26cc modified (By me) so we shall see how it performs. Motor moutns are Top Secret, drive end mounts are inverted to make them fit the hull, looks like they will be perfect.

New Metric rubbers on the way from Ian to try to get as much metric threads on the boat as I can.

So we have some progress - I must thank my friends Jon and Steve for the lend of the additional clamps which will speed the sponson skinning process no end.

Hope you enjoy the updates.

Glenn

martno1fan · « **Reply #46 on:** February 07, 2009, 08:05:48 am »

Looks good Glenn will you be using an iv bag setup in this one?.What did you decide to do about the nose block?,will you be adding some glass to the engine bay area to add more strength

.Cant wait to see what she looks like when the skins are on top and bottom your doing a good job keep the pics coming.
Mart

w3bby · « **Reply #47 on:** February 07, 2009, 08:09:13 am »

Sorry Glenn, only 5/10 for mood lighting..
Is that the dining table you're building this on?

You must have better control over your Mrs (and your epoxy) than I have over mine....
Coming along nicely. Clamp-wise I find elastic bands useful and for something stronger, cut down bike inner tubes.

brodjack · « **Reply #48 on:** February 07, 2009, 10:41:20 am »

Looking well Glenn,looks like plenty of work left yet though.
That hydro shape is my favourite one,if i ever get one that will be the design,albeit in glass though

Those mounts look very similar to my Zen7/Apache mounts from Daves,good idea about the upside down thingy.
Should be bye-bye 60,hello 70mph time now....
Brod..

glennb2006 · « **Reply #49 on:** February 07, 2009, 11:38:54 am »

Quote from: w3bby on February 07, 2009, 08:09:13 am

Sorry Glenn, only 5/10 for mood lighting..
Is that the dining table you're building this on? You must have better control over your Mrs (and your epoxy) than I have over mine....
Coming along nicely. Clamp-wise I find elastic bands useful and for something stronger, cut down bike inner tubes.

Hi Ian,

the table is in the conservatory, I am struggling to find somewhere in the house where it is warm enough for the epoxy to work and where I can leave the boat without a pair of little hands grabbing it!

I have the building board on the table normally, but have just put it back there for the moment without it while the glue drys. The missus is pretty good, as long as I have something to do she knows it keeps me happy, so everyone's a winner!

Will try harder on the photography front for you then Ian!

Hi Mart - yes, I plan on using an IV bag on this set up. There will be glass reinforcing, well, kevlar most likely, need to ensure the motor does not interfere with the bottom of the engine bay. Got the nose blocks sorted, going to make some different ones to make my life easier, they will be done when the skins are on the sponsons. Most of the strength is going to be needed on the starboard sponson around the turn fin mount I think.

Hi Brod, there is a fair bit left to do, most of the horrible wood work is behind me though.

There is a glass fibre version available, known as the Whiplash GV. Seems to be having good results in the US.
I do expect this model to do over 70 with some ease once I have it set up, if it does not then I will try my Zen 7 motor in it!

If anyone has a spare CS23 or CS23a Prestwich exhaust for sale, please let me know as I could do with one.

Done some more sponson sticking this morning, so only got three skins left to fit. Lot of cutting and sanding to finish them nicely.

Glenn

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Author Topic: Whiplash Hydro Build (Read 96452 times)

das boot

omra85

dan

dan

brodjack