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[2772e]

Can anyone recommend a supplier of thin guage wiring for nav and running lights please?

It needs to pass through the masts etc.

Prefereably the same wire/thickness that comes with commercial lights.

They never give you enough in the packs for the top of the mast?

 ??? ???

Regards

Simon

[DickyD]

Would telephone wire be to thin

Richard :-\

[2772e]

Richard,

Tried that sorry, single core and too stiff.

Really need v thing sheathed multi core to get the flexibility.

 ::)

[RickF]

Or visit your local Maplins/RS Components (both on line) for miniature extra flexible wire.

Rick

[Telstar]

Hi. I use computer Ribbon cable for this type of job, if your careful you can rip one ore two cores from the rest, one core is about one millimeter outside diameter, with 7strands of conductor inside. big advantage is where you need several wires along the same run, you just tear off the required number and glue it down flat ie under deks orinside cabin roofs etc.
Cheers Tom

[Dave Leishman]

I found a railway model supplier that sells 0.6mm multistrand wire in 10m lengths and, having ordered some, can say that it's perfect for the job.

www.expressmodels.co.uk

[andywright]

I use wire available in dolls house shops, it is multistrand, flexible and thin.Usually comes in twin core, but you can run a number of wires , if you use a brass mast, the negative return can got to the foot of the mast, and only a positve wire needs to be run from the individual lights, the light negative is then soldered to the mast in close proximity to the light. I run steaming light, 3 towing lights and not under command (NUC lights )all off one negative return.

[portside II]

 ;Dthe last boat i fitted nav lights/mast lights to (zwartzee) i used thin brass wire up each side of the mast soldered and painted .almost invisible. ::)

[wombat]

Alternatively try 0.15mm enamelled copper wire. Very thin and reasonably flexible, can take enough mA for  bulb. Only thing is that you need to mark the runs to ensure correct wiring.

Tim the Wombat

[cbr900]

And as a last alternative I have taken the ends off a couple of old parallel port computer cables, some of them have twenty five core inside, perfect for running lights ....



Roy

[Peterm]

I buy dolls house lighting wire.   Pete M

[FullLeatherJacket]

http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?MenuNo=56068&MenuName=ALARM%20CABLE&FromMenu=y&DOY=4m11

Strips down into 4,6 or 8 strands, all individually insulated and colour-coded. Simple stuff works best for me.
Suit yourself.

[Malc Reade]

If you are going to Warwick next weekend, we will have the wire that we use for our working lights for sale on our stand in 2 Metre lengths.  It's multi-strand copper, very thin and flexible with black insulation.

Regards, Malc

[2772e]

Well, spent all afternoon sodding around with the lights, getting the radar working and finishing a couple of bits on the aerials.

Tried the suggestions of earthing out on the brass, works really well, thanks. Now i only have to run run one wire down the tube. So simple when you know how.

Whats the best way of powering the lights/radar etc in the superstructure and still making it removable without having wires running all over the place?

Has anyone tried a quick release thingy. Thought of a couple of springs, one on each side on the cabin touching brass plates on the deck, saves the wires me thinks?

Any one got any suggestions please?

Thanks Malc, cant make it. Going into London Sunday for Armistice Day. See you another time.

Regards

Simon
 

[Malc Reade]

Simon

Not that anybody would try to persuade you to miss the Armistice Day events, but a two minute silence is rightfully observed at 11am on the 11th of November at the Leamington Spa show.

Have a peaceful day in London.

Regards, Malc

[cbr900]

Simon,

All I usually do with lights and radar is attach a small pack of double A batteries 3.6 volt, to the underside of the superstructure and there is no problem with removing the top as it is not connected by wires, it is suprising how long the pack will last as the draw in minimal....



Roy

[Malc Reade]

And as Roy has pointed out previously, at 3.6 Volts, you can run LED's without resistors...

Malc

[FullLeatherJacket]

http://www.jaketalbot.com/actionkit/products.htm

Magnetic connectors (near bottom of this list).

[dougal99]

I used mini jack plugs and a coiled lead on my Brittany Trawler. This arrangement allows you to remove the superstructure easily to get at the motor, drive batterires etc without having to unplug the lights. However, if you need to remove the s/s some distance from from the hull you just unplug the jack plugs. The arrangement also means you don't have to line up the connectors when replacing the s/s.

Cheers

Doug

[Doc]

Simon,
You have two options.  One is to place the power supply for the lights in the superstructure.  The other is to use a connector between superstructure and deck/hull.  The thingy about using springs and brass plates does work.  Not really all that difficult to do, but not as simple as it might seem either.  If the 'right' type of 'plug' assembly is used, it can also help keep the superstructure 'fixed' to the deck, sort of.  With all the different types of connectors around today you ought to be able to cobble something together that will work.
 - 'Doc

PS - Just going by the size of your boat in the picture, an 'add-on' cigar lighter ought'a work!

[Malc Reade]

A Tamiya connector works as well as anything else...

Malc

[Craig Kane]

I use metal repair tape (Speed-tape to us at work) which is ideal for making contacts.

Solder, or even stick, wires from the battery to a strip and form a makeshift busbar.  You can then have similar on the removeable portion of the superstructure to take the power wherever you need it to go.

Works well up to 12v for me............................just don't let the storeman know where all the speed tape has gone!!

Craig

[Scottie]

I used cut down IDE connectors (hard drive and Cd rom stytle things) on my pusher tug Egrete.
Pictures on my web site - www.marine-modelling.co.uk

Scottie

[cbr900]

Can anyone recommend a supplier of thin guage wiring for nav and running lights please?

It needs to pass through the masts etc.

Simon

Simon,

I just bought some rainbow cable, which is thirteen core wide and perfect for lights and radar, most electronic shops should have it, it can be easily stripped into one, two ,three and so fourth, and it is dirt cheap...........



Roy

[chingdevil]

Why not use copper tape for running up masts and inside cabins. The use it to run the power round dolls houses, it is self adhesive and you can solder to it. I would have thought that you could clad the mast in it then solder the lights at the top, then rough it up and paint it.