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[howie55]

Hi Guys
I am looking for some help, I have just finished preparing the hull of my schooner for the paint job, a week ago I was ready for the final coat of fibre glass when I had my worst nightmare, instead of the fibre glass curing it just balled up on the sandpaper like chewing gum, I know what I had done to deserve this, somewhere I had read you can thin fibre glass with ethanol, well I used cellulose thinners and it did thin it down, and it went on well, the Matt cloth looked great, I waited for two days and it was still tacky, rubbing down was like I said pushing chewing gum. so I scrapped it all off, cleaned it all back and then fibre glassed it properly.
 It looks good now and I don't want to mess it up again with the paint job, I want to paint her below the waterline red, above the waterline black,from the gunwales up in white outside and inside, and seal the deck with varnish. I would like to use holfords primer and paint sprays
will someone explain in what order I should paint the hull, and where to mask off ????.
I will add some photo's tomorrow at the moment they are too large to post

[Peter Fitness]

In my experience it's best to apply the lighter colours first, (after priming) as dark colours are hard to cover properly with a lighter colour. In your case I would apply the white first, then the red and finally the black.

As regards masking, once the white has thoroughly hardened, mask it off with a low tack masking tape and apply the red. Once the red has hardened, mask it too and apply the black between the two lots of tape. When removing the tape, carefully pull it back over itself to prevent paint lifting. It is imperative to get a good "key" on the surface of the hull so the base coat of primer adheres well, which should prevent any lifting.

This method has worked well for me but other people may have different approaches.

Peter.

[dbninja]

pretty much as Peter said...

use a white primer not grey (this will give you a much brighter red)
leave each coat to fully dry  and lightly flat off with 800grit between coats/colours carefully flat up to the edge of the masking for each colour and clean the dust off with a "tack rag"

as you are using aerosols dont get hung up on getting a high gloss finish with each colour, just go for a nice even covering of colour when de-masked and all three colours are on.. flat it all back and apply clear gloss over it all to get the finish

try to do it on a nice dry warm days...   yes we do have the odd one

patience is your friend....

db

[howie55]

Hi peter and dbninja
thanks for replying,another question please, at the moment the deck is just rubbed down, before I start spraying the primer on the hull should I seal the deck with anything, i want to keep it natural finish so it will be clear varnished, I realize I will have to mask the deck area before I begin spaying the hull,but does the deck need some sort of natural sealer to creat a good bond for the varnish
Oh and here are some photos I promised
thanks Geoff

[dbninja]

Geoff.
thats loverly

yes deffinately seal the deck before you start any  painting, it never fails to amaze me how paint can creep under a masked edge....   and any paint that crept onto your bare wood deck would just soak in! and be permanent.


another reason to seal the deck, i always use "sanding sealer" for bare wood, and sanding sealer is cellulose based

it will pickle and crinkle your aerosol colours that are acrylic based if applied ontop of acrylic or enamal, its no problem applying acrylic or enamal or just about anything else on top of your sanding sealer though

so brush on  a couple of coats of sanding sealer lightly sanded between coats

keep the photos coming

David

[triumphjon]

if anybody has a problem with paint that has reacted all is not lost as there is a product available through most good automotive paint factors called BARCOAT ,  its an isolator paint that will stop any further reaction with the old and new paint it will also stop the bleeding effect that occurs when your trying to repaint anything that was origanally painted in RED !  the only drawback its only supplied in 1 litre tins & must be sprayed ! !   spraying with areosol cans if you are able to stand the can in warm water before use  it will improve the paint flow when spraying  ( remember to thourghly dry the outside of the can before you start to use it  , water on your wet paint will spoil the finish !   

[nemesis]

Hi, Glad to see you are getting on with your vessl. I find the "Plastic Primer" from halfords is invaluable on plasticard & fibreglass. Postings say primer but they are not specific to which one, Good luck,
                                                     Nemesis

[Peter Fitness]

I have to confess that I have never used a sealer on my wooden decks, but I do use multiple coats of polyurethane clear - at least 5 or 6 coats, which do effectively seal the timber. However, it would probably be wise for you to use a sealer to be sure not to have water ruin that fine model of yours.

Peter.

[howie55]

thanks guys for all the replies
the information and response from this forum is superb, I still have away to go before I finish, and look forward to solving more problems when I get to the rigging stage.
thanks again for your help and advice
Geoff

[RaaArtyGunner]

I have to confess that I have never used a sealer on my wooden decks, but I do use multiple coats of polyurethane clear - at least 5 or 6 coats, which do effectively seal the timber. However, it would probably be wise for you to use a sealer to be sure not to have water ruin that fine model of yours.

Peter.

Hi Peter,
Mate, the polyurethanes we use  here, such as Estapol, do not require a sealer as the first coat acts as sealer.
However, there are other wood finishes that do require the use of a sealer.

[derekwarner]

RaaArtyGunner ...you must remember that our Peter Fitness is just down the road a bit from you  

Peter has a BIG Bunnings store to call upon & they stock a wide range of Cabot's products including their polyurathane & Feast Watson stains

I understand that Cabot's may be Danish owned........but Feast Watson is OZ  

"Waytel  Esterpol" [intentionally mis-spelt] is non Australian  & is just GLUG compared products from Cabot's ....Derek

[RaaArtyGunner]

RaaArtyGunner ...you must remember that our Peter Fitness is just down the road a bit from you  

Peter has a BIG Bunnings store to call upon & they stock a wide range of Cabot's products including their polyurathane & Feast Watson stains

I understand that Cabot's may be Danish owned........but Feast Watson is OZ  

"Waytel  Esterpol" [intentionally mis-spelt] is non Australian  & is just GLUG compared products from Cabot's ....Derek

Derek, What can I say, other than I have been decoyed.   
ps, Am off to Bunnings