Topic: 1/12 Salcombe Tamar (Read 62623 times)

Number 6 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 30, 2011, 07:18:10 pm »

It's looking nice, I think if it was mine and it was a good finish I'd leave it at that, quit while you're ahead! Dave.

17-21 · « **Reply #51 on:** July 01, 2011, 07:02:14 am »

Chris please see photos, but you will need to make up the inner surround as yet again its been missed from the kit.

Your spray job is fine

got to 2nd Dave's comments on that, if you are happy then leave to harden off

derekwarner · « **Reply #52 on:** July 01, 2011, 07:36:25 am »

Chris J asks....... "so do I risk one more coat?" .....

5 coats & a great surface finish

...I would not risk it.......let it cure then remove the masking..........

........Derek

CJ1 · « **Reply #53 on:** July 01, 2011, 08:44:26 am »

Quote from: 17-21 on July 01, 2011, 07:02:14 am

Chris please see photos, but you will need to make up the inner surround as yet again its been missed from the kit.

Thanks for the photos, exactly what I needed. I thought those parts were missing! I can crack on now.

I've been very good and not gone into the workshop and fiddled with the paint job! I'll leave it over the weekend to harden. I've learnt my lesson with masking tape and now only use Tamiya at the paint edge with normal "HomeB&Qit-all" cheap stuff over the top.

Thanks guys.
Chris

flundle · « **Reply #54 on:** July 05, 2011, 08:36:59 pm »

Looks super. Did you stop at 5?

Bad news for me I'm afraid. I START WORK TOMORROW!

CJ1 · « **Reply #55 on:** July 05, 2011, 09:06:26 pm »

Yes, I took everyone's advice and stopped at 5 coats of paint.

Then I had to peel off the masking tape, which has been on for three weeks. So...hands up all those who love Tamiya masking tape!! A perfect edge. I used the technique advocated by someone on the "Painting, Finishing and Care" section who said to peel the tape back on itself as you removed it. I've not used this tape before and It's really not like any other. Gorgeous to use.

OK advert over. I pre-painted the waterline in white before the blue and it worked well, so I'll post a picture when I've finished the antifouling too. Thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences on Meyhem. It's really helped.

Chris

ps flundle, sorry about the work thing!

Number 6 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 05, 2011, 09:11:46 pm »

I'll second that about Tamiya masking tape, not the cheapest, but the best I've used so far, Dave.

Spook · « **Reply #57 on:** July 06, 2011, 12:22:11 pm »

I've been using 3M masking tape and wish I hadn't - not very good.

CJ1 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 06, 2011, 01:26:30 pm »

Martin,
I've always used "Family Safe" when adding images. I've noticed this over the past few days all over Meyhem, even when looking at old posts.

But feel free to delete any of my photo posts! I suspect the problem is with the "Postimage.org" website.
Chris

Guy Bagley · « **Reply #59 on:** July 06, 2011, 01:53:17 pm »

i used family safe, but still got the naughty advert, surely its the picture we are uploading which we are stating is family safe - not the trashy pop up ads on the host site ?

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #60 on:** July 06, 2011, 02:43:06 pm »

A quick web search reveals it's now a known problem - I've now uninstalled " Simple Image Upload "

To upload photos to your post:

Resize and Upload to Mayhem:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23.msg2630#msg2630
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23.msg36#msg36

Photobucket:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2277.msg108900#msg108900

CJ1 · « **Reply #61 on:** July 06, 2011, 04:39:53 pm »

If you open any picture on Meyhem in PostImage.org, there is a "report abuse or request deletion" option bottom right. If you click on that, you can send an e-mail to them.

I have just sent one telling them that their adverts are inappropriate and I won't use their website until changed. If enough people do the same they may get the message....yeh, I know....and Pigs will fly, but it's worth a try!

Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #62 on:** July 07, 2011, 09:13:31 am »

I don't know what you've done Martin, but it worked. The pictures have lost the naughty adverts! Thank you.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #63 on:** July 07, 2011, 12:18:44 pm »

Photos of the de-masked hull. I'll leave it to harden now and crack on with the cabin exterior.

Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #64 on:** August 16, 2011, 05:59:04 pm »

I've started making all those little bits that adorn the cabin sides, starting from the pointy end.

I bit the bullet and remade the forward facing comms. box supports (underneath the windows) out of styrene sheet to a more realistic size. Sorry Adrian, your laser cut parts are fabulous, but I couldn't see how to make those the right size this time. They still seem too big but the perspex comms. boxes that fit on them are so well made I'm going to use them anyway.

Then I came across these. They are part of SA60. The 1/2 round one on the left is the forward end of the boat hook support, no problem, but what is the 1/4 round one on the right? I can't find it on the Speedline plans nor the RNLI plans. Any ideas anyone, Adrian?

Chris

justboatonic · « **Reply #65 on:** August 17, 2011, 12:46:21 pm »

Great looking build.

I've toyed with the idea of getting one of these kits of the Tamar as I like big scale models. But, there's a lot of fiddly brasswork that needs soldering as can be seen in some of the pics which puts me off. That's a real shame.

CJ1 · « **Reply #66 on:** August 17, 2011, 01:45:03 pm »

Thank you.

You are right that there is a lot of small fiddly soldering to do. However, this is my first attempt at this sort of soldering, and so far, it's not going too badly. One piece defeated me totally and so I resorted to superglue, and was able to back it up (unseen I hope) with a piece of glass fibre scrim for strength! I won't say which bit, but will wait and see if anyone can spot it later!

So it's not impossible, you end up with a new skill and the result is really satisfying. I've learnt to not get de-moralised looking at the small parts, think it through first, clean everything twice and then just set-to. Philsrcmodels website has some good tips on holding the bits together while you solder, and his ideas helped me a lot; thank you Phil.

Chris

Les · « **Reply #67 on:** August 17, 2011, 06:36:43 pm »

I'm pretty sure the two pieces you are questioning are both for the boat hook ends. All lifeboats have two different boathooks. The one mounted on the port side is white and has, if I remember correctly two hooks, so the part with the two radiused corners is the one for that. The other starboard boathook has a single hook and a fend off piece so this fits into the piece with the single corner radius to the lower side. The hook ends are always towards the bow. The other end of the boathooks are retained in a channel type of fitting, deep enough for a retaining pin or drop pin to keep the boathook in place.

Hope it helps

Les

CJ1 · « **Reply #68 on:** August 17, 2011, 10:24:46 pm »

Les,
Thank you for that; good answer. I'd worked out the channel type fitting aft and the stbd forward one, so that really helps.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #69 on:** August 19, 2011, 12:26:24 pm »

Les,
I just been to the RNLI in Poole and they kindly let me take photos of exactly what you described. It's all clear now. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #70 on:** August 25, 2011, 06:17:43 pm »

I've bought Halfords VW Brilliant Orange to start painting the cabin after success with the blue on the hull.

I was surprised to see that it states to use grey primer on the cans; I was expecting to need white. Anyone used this colour with grey primer, and any comments?

Chris

Number 6 · « **Reply #71 on:** August 25, 2011, 06:20:42 pm »

Use white primer, if you use grey it WILL look too dark. Trust me, been there, done that myself. Dave.

Spook · « **Reply #72 on:** August 25, 2011, 11:36:14 pm »

I used white primer on mine and it comes up just about a perfect match with the real thing. See my Trent pics for Onslow in the lifeboats forum.

CJ1 · « **Reply #73 on:** September 16, 2011, 08:06:46 am »

Handrails now bent up to shape and soldered together. Still quite a steep learning curve, but getting easier with each component. I've sprayed behind them with primer and a single coat of orange before glueing them in place as I cant see how they will get coated with paint so close to the cabin sides (or am I just being too cautious?).

Chris

justboatonic · « **Reply #74 on:** September 16, 2011, 10:55:44 am »

Quote from: Chris J on September 16, 2011, 08:06:46 am

Handrails now bent up to shape and soldered together. Still quite a steep learning curve, but getting easier with each component. I've sprayed behind them with primer and a single coat of orange before glueing them in place as I cant see how they will get coated with paint so close to the cabin sides (or am I just being too cautious?).

Chris

On bits like rails where, if you are using a rattle can with the best endeavours behind the rail never gets sprayed properly, I leave off the model, spray the required area, in this case the cabin, spray or paint the rails separately then add to the boat.

Just be careful gluing the rail in place. If you do get a 'sheen' of glue on the superstructure, when you add your varnish or lacquer, this will make it look more seamless.

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Author Topic: 1/12 Salcombe Tamar (Read 62623 times)

CJ1

flundle

CJ1

Spook

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

CJ1

Spook

CJ1