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[6705russell]

Hi Chris

How are you getting on with the Tamar since you moved?  Have you tackled the main mast yet?  I hope to make mine in the next couple of weeks....

Thanks

Russ

[CJ1]

Russ,
No work at all at present, as I am holidaying in Mallorca! Bright but cold, although went to watch IOM sailing next to the cathedral in Palma yesterday. No lifeboats, but a very nice llaud in attendance to help them out.





Big problem is that the new house, although only 100 metres from Poole model boating lake, doesn't have a workshop!!! (don't ask!). As the old house still hasn't sold, I'm planning on doing a blitz on the Tamar in the workshop there when I get back to Devon next week. All very frustrating.
Chris

[6705russell]

Ok Chris no worries, you have a good time out there and we will catch up when you get back...

Russ

[CJ1]

Hi Guys,
I'm detailing the cabin sides and have got to part 49,the aerial. I've built the through-cabin support and it's end parts, but not sure where all the other small brass pieces go! Any ideas, you Tamar builders?
Chris

[6705russell]

Any pictures of the parts in question Chris?

Russ

[CJ1]

OK, these are the little critters:



And the other question I meant to ask is from what do you make the two aerials themselves?

Chris

[rg197r27]

Chris

I my memory is right the squares locate on the aerials and they locate in to
The brackets which are fixed to the ends of the support
Which goes through the cabin. The thin strips are the aerial
Supports which are on the side of the cabin which the aerials
Rest on when they are folded down

Hope this helps

Rich

[CJ1]

Thanks Rich.

And the aerials themselves? What did you make them from?

Chris

[CJ1]

Thanks for the help with those small parts Rich, I've bent them up and put them aside to spray.
I've just started to assemble the windscreen. I've identified all the parts and where they go and as usual Adrian has done a fantastic job.
However, I cannot get it to sit onto the GRP cabin roof on the middle flat section (click on the photo to see the problem). When bent to shape and fitting up against the door moulding top as it is designed to do, it is 4mm too high along the middle flat area. It's fine at the sides where it bends backwards.
What have you guys done here? Have I missed a part?



Also, what glue did you use to sandwich the perspex between the brass? I've done a test piece with superglue and didn't get any fogging.

Chris

[6705russell]

Hi Chris

The wheelhouse moulding is slightly out, you will need to filler it out...

Russ

[rg197r27]

Chris

I agree with Russ you do need a small amount of filler, my aerials I used 2.4 mm plastic tube with 1 mm plastic rod for the whip there are
Some photos of the whips when cabin wasn't painted

Rich

[CJ1]

Managed to get a lot of the cabin exterior detail done today. With Speedline there is certainly a lot of it! Not far off from painting the orange now, just a few bits to make.
I also decided to strip all the paint off the brass parts from the transom. I had got a good finish on them, but finished with a cheap clear varnish and they turned out rubbish. Serves me right for buying cheap! So I still haven't got the transom door on yet.









Too cold to carry on, so I'm going in to get warm.

Chris

[CJ1]

Why is it we can hold down quite serious jobs with no problem, and yet get in such a tangle over spraying a bit of Halford's primer on a model boat!

I've looked at all the photos, searched the kit instructions, studied the plans and can't find anything else to make or glue on to the cabin before spraying. So I've put down the first coat of white primer...... but I'm sure there's something I've forgotten. Oh well....here goes!



Chris

[CJ1]

Speedline 1/12 Tamar.

I've soldered the mast together. Now I am left with quite a few bits for it (S.A. 76) and I can't see where to put them. Anyone out there who can help identify exactly what these are please?










I'm pretty sure that the round parts are for the various lights, but the square section ones...? As for the brass and stainless parts; I have no idea.

many thanks,

Chris

[CJ1]

Hi guys,
I'm about to glue the rubber fendering on to the 1/12 Speedline Tamar hull. What is the best glue to use?


Chris

[KenP]

Put my Tamar to one side.
Couldn't see how the inside Perspex bits of the cabin fitted together. Nothing about them in Adrians write up or on his Disk
So am slowly plodding on with JoTiKa Victory and a Fleetscale based Missouri - just can't find any 1:128 Mk 51 or Mk 57 Directors for Missouri!!
 
KenP

[CJ1]

Ken,
I've had a similar problem with the kit. But I am determined to finish it now, so I'm back in the shed working methodically. Given up trying to have electric lights and stuff. Just want to see it finished!


So....Cyano or Bostick for the fendering? What do you think?


Chris

[kinmel]

Ken,
I've had a similar problem with the kit. But I am determined to finish it now, so I'm back in the shed working methodically. Given up trying to have electric lights and stuff. Just want to see it finished!


So....Cyano or Bostick for the fendering? What do you think?


Chris

Evostick Timebond is the best adhesive for the fenders, it allows you to adjust the positioning as you fit it and is flexible after drying.

[CJ1]

Thank you for that. I'll use it.
Chris

[KenP]

I also use Evostick
KenP

[midships]

midships
at last got all bits required from adrian
have you any suggestions on fixing the rubber fender to the hull ,pity adrian did not have some sort of dove tail fixing on to the hull with a corresponding groove in  the rubber moulding makeing it easier to line up .now about to start on the transom door did you bolt the transom hinge assembly on to the transom before completing it ,have asked adrian and model mayhem users the purpose of the thin styrne sheets which seem to be a templete for the transom door and y boat floor no reply yet ,frustration is now setting in
thanks for your time
midships 

[CJ1]

midships
have you any suggestions on fixing the rubber fender to the hull

Midships,
In the end, I worked out where the fendering was going and put a strip of masking tape at it's lower edge. This served as a guide as it was easy to see that it was curved fairly to match the sheer of the deck and the run off at the rear. It also meant that any glue would not run down the hull. I sanded the rear of the rubber, cleaned it and the hull with meths and then applied Evostick to the hull and to the rubber. Went in for a cuppa while it all dried and then later slowly stuck it down from the front working aft keeping the top edge flush with the deck. The bevels at the rear quarters (next to the steps) and the transom I cut with the old fashioned razor-blade-in-a-holder and mitred the transom pieces on in the same way. I popped two screws through the rubber at the bow to hold the tight curve in place and they are hidden by the bow roller.
Hope that helps,
Chris

[Akers]

Hi
The thin styrne plastic piece is to bridge transom door to Y boat boat well when transom door is open, I have disgarded styrne and made mine out of rolled brass sheet using plastic pieces as the profile then stuck them to the brass.
If you require photos contact me sending me your email address
 
Akers

[CJ1]

midships
now about to start on the transom door did you bolt the transom hinge assembly on to the transom before completing it ,have asked adrian and model mayhem users the purpose of the thin styrne sheets which seem to be a templete for the transom door and y boat floor no reply yet 
midships

I made up the Y-boat garage and transom door first. I then put the door temporarily in place with tape and with spacers all round to keep it clear of the opening (it won't open if it touches anywhere). Then I marked out, from the RNLI plans, where the hinges should go on the door. I stuck the hinges to the door first, reinforcing them with the tiny bolts in the kit, glued through the holes in the hinges into tiny holes drilled through the door grp. This then allows you to see where the lower part of the hinge assembly goes on the hull. Because of the complexity of the hinge, you need to allow a bit of free play in each hinge bolt for it to work well. Note that if you put the exhaust outlets even slightly too high from the RNLI plans, they can foul the door opening. I had put mine on first and they just touched! I had to remove them and lower them 2mm.
I didn't get any thin styrene parts for the transom so I can't help you with those I'm afraid.
Chris

[kinmel]

midships
have asked adrian and model mayhem users the purpose of the thin styrne sheets which seem to be a templete for the transom door and y boat floor no reply yet ,frustration is now setting in
thanks for your time
midships 

The thine styrene sheet is not a template, it is an actual part - the curved bridge between the boat deck and the open door. It is fixed to the bottom edge of the door and the other long edge slides across the deck.

see the photo on this page ................  http://danwalker.co.uk/Pictures/Y_Class/TAMAR.jpg