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[dreadnought72]

Hi everyone,

I found the topic "Receiver Aerial Length" useful & informative - but does anyone have experience they can help me with here -

I'm making a model of the HMS Dreadnought at 1/72nd scale - clearly big enough to get a full aerial length on the model, and the model's big enough to be seen at distances where the range might become an issue.

So, I thought: "Why not use the ship's radio aerial work as the radio aerial?"

These aerials are the usual form for ships of the period - there are two, made up of multiple strands held apart by a number of small spreaders along the length - and they run from the bow up to, and over, both masts. Plenty of height and length.

Now the scale freak in me would want this radio aerial to look right, and not be like the insulated wire you get coming out of the rx. So my questions are:

Can I use a single strand of thinner wire for the rx aerial compared to the twisted, insulated normal wire?

How thin can this wire be? (I know resistance rises as diameter narrows: so what's the likely limit for a single stranded wire before it becomes useless? The current in an aerial is miniscule - upping the ohms would be fatal, I'd've thought.)

Would making all the strands in the model's aerial work, rather than just one, be useful or counterproductive?

ANY advice welcome!

[tobyker]

I've used a single strand of bell wire from Telecom phone wire before - it happened to have brown insulation but I think the insulation is immaterial. If handrails work, and the longer the better, then I don't see why you shouldn't use all the strands. But I'm no expert.

[Colin Bishop]

I have had no problems using very thin enamelled coil winding wire, about the same thickness as 5 amp fuse wire. This gives a scale effect as it is very thin. I don't think that thickness of the aerial wire is a significant factor as far as performance is concerned. The wire that comes with RXs is probably just intended to give reasonable mechanical strength.

If you do use thin wire then you must allow for it to be broken and be replaceable. My technique is to run the RX end of the wire below deck through a small hole and then connect it to the thicker wire using a gold plated connector. (remember to scrape off the insulating enamel before soldering). I also tension the thin wire with a spring below decks to keep it taut. If it does break then it is easily replaced. Works for me anyway!

[dreadnought72]

Many thanks - I'll be giving single strand wire a go.

Andy