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[pettyofficernick]

Good form

[muleears]

Well, here it is anyway, ugly as it is.  I figure once I have the floor attached no one will be able to see it! .  I sealed the laser cuts with glue before I applied the poly.  I am about to epoxy this to the deck so if anyone sees a reason I shouldn't please speak now!  I know I should have used flat black paint, that would have been preferable but I used what I had one hand.  The nearest flat black is about 20 miles round trip away.  The flash makes it look worse anyway, to the casual observer I think it will be fine. Besides if I don't like it I can paint it again later.  The only concern I have is clearance for the post on the propshaft.  I'm confident it will clear the floor of the sump, it is a little too long anyway!   Here's the pics:











Remember! As soon as I get another coat of poly dry this thing is going on, so please, if you have a concern let me know now!   

Once I get this fitted I believe I'll be ready to attach the floor. Am I forgetting anything?  Should the vertical (fake) ribs on the inside of the hull be done first?

Thanks to all


Cal

[pettyofficernick]

Hi Cal, that looks fine, go for it. Fit the ribs after you have fitted the floor in place, otherwise you might find yourself having to cut notches in the floor to clear the ribs.......

[muleears]

Boy, am I glad you said go ahead.  I finished about 10 minutes ago.  It took some more trimming and grinding and cutting, but I think I got there.  I have not yet glued down the floor, I wanted to make sure the engine fit and operated with sufficient clearance.  Good thing I did the pin I was worried about (on the propshaft) did not clear the bottom of the sump.  So I shortened it about 3mm, it was plenty long anyway.  I also shortened the propshaft.  Now a couple questions:  I need a jam nut to hold the prop on, correct? If so I need to leave room between the stuffing box and the prop.  Second Q, is it OK for the collar the pin is in to ride against the stuffing box?  It appears either the jam nut at the prop or the collar will have to.  The pic below shows the position of the collar in relation to the stuffing box.  Thanks for the input.





By the way, what do you lubricate the propshaft with?  It's my plan to inject some grease before running.  Maybe waterproof automotive wheel bearing grease?

[pettyofficernick]

You will need a locknut on the propshaft or you will loose the propeller, the inboard end will be ok, I don't have a washer there and I runs fine. If you fill the shaft with greasen do not use a heavy one, I filled mine with lithium grease, a good alternative is silicone grease, the sort that plumbers use....

[muleears]

Here's the response to the question I posed to PMR about connecting my boiler to their engine:
______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Calvin,

You would need to convert your 10-40 thread to a 3/16-40 or ¼-40 thread.  Then you could use our TUM35 or TUM45 to make the connection.  Here is the link to these, http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/home.php?cat=150.  Have a great day.

Jim
_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

This is somewhat helpful but it still doesn't tell me ALL the parts I need.  I still need something to convert the 10-40 male thread on the boiler to the male thread tube unions they have suggested...   I'll try the site Nick suggested next.  The Steamfittings site.

[pettyofficernick]

Hi Cal, the thread on the Maccsteam boiler valve is 1/4 x 40 on the inlet and the outlet, I have not heard of a 10 x 40 thread, a 3/8 x 32  bush is fitted into the boiler, an adapter, 3/8 x 32 to 1/4 x 40 is then used to allow  the use of the 1/4 x 40 steam stop valve. ( I am assuming your 3.5" horizontal boiler is identical to mine.) Here is a link to Maccsteam's fittings page and one to the 3.5" boiler and you will see what I mean.

http://www.maccsteam.com/Fittings/Fittings.html

http://www.maccsteam.com/Horizontal_Marine_boilers/3_and_half_inch/3_and_half_inch.html
I got a turret with mine, it allows a little more scope to arrange the position of the stop valve. So, you need a 1/4 x 40 connection to the steam valve.
Hope this is helpfull,
Regards,
Nick.

[pettyofficernick]

I have just had another look at your plumbing done so far, and here,s what I would do..... First off, screw a straight 1/ x 40 coupling on the steam valve, this will enable you to work back from the boiler with your threaded pipe, finally arriving at the engine, you can then connect with the fittings you already have on the engine connection, you may have to alter the length of the pipe at this end before soldering the nut and nipple in place. Use one of these straight couplings at the boiler valve end...

http://www.pmresearchinc.com/store/product.php?productid=3659&cat=88&page=1

Best wishes,
Nick.

[muleears]

Hi Cal, the thread on the Maccsteam boiler valve is 1/4 x 40 on the inlet and the outlet, I have not heard of a 10 x 40 thread, a 3/8 x 32  bush is fitted into the boiler, an adapter, 3/8 x 32 to 1/4 x 40 is then used to allow  the use of the 1/4 x 40 steam stop valve. ( I am assuming your 3.5" horizontal boiler is identical to mine.) Here is a link to Maccsteam's fittings page and one to the 3.5" boiler and you will see what I mean.

http://www.maccsteam.com/Fittings/Fittings.html

http://www.maccsteam.com/Horizontal_Marine_boilers/3_and_half_inch/3_and_half_inch.html
I got a turret with mine, it allows a little more scope to arrange the position of the stop valve. So, you need a 1/4 x 40 connection to the steam valve.
Hope this is helpfull,
Regards,
Nick.

Nick,
There is no doubt in my mind that a 10-40 thread is purely a figment of my feeble imagination...  Or the result of my poor, poor memory.  That's probably what I asked PMR, no wonder they didn't have a fitting for it!

Yes, with your assistance I think I can figure it out now. I have several feet of brass and copper tubing so I can make a few mistakes along the way!

On a different note, I laid the floor in the engine room this afternoon.  It is now permanently affixed to the boat.  I then installed the mechanics and plugged it in to my air brush compressor.  It worked! The propeller actually spun!  It has some extraneous noises that I have to chase down but it worked!     After chasing down this bumping noise (I think I know what it is) I'll affix the stuffing box, then maybe the rudder.  I have yet to really start on the cabin.  I'm hoping that is relatively straightforward.  Thanks again for all the help.  These pipe sizes just baffle me

[muleears]

Well, I know I have been absent for a while, sometimes life intrudes on what I want to do!  I did manage to get the brass mounting plate cut and drilled and I'd like to post some pics but for some reason I can't.  I'll keep trying as I want some input!

[pettyofficernick]

Hi Cal, Try using the attachments and other options box at the bottom of the reply page, I tried to post photos in the normal way and it did't work, but did from the attachments box.
Regards,
Nick...

[muleears]

trying for a third time, had to make the pics smaller each time.  These will be no where near the size we used to be able to post.

[pettyofficernick]

Hi Cal, looking good mate, much neater than mine, keep up the good work

[DickyD]

trying for a third time, had to make the pics smaller each time.  These will be no where near the size we used to be able to post.

Hi Cal if you use Photobucket size doesn't matter 

[muleears]

What happened to the old way? No loading one other sites, no resizing, no problem. I guess I'll have to take DickyD's advice unless we can return to the old way.  With what we do, detail in the photo's is vital to convey what we are trying to show.  Don't mean to hijack my own thread, just hope we can go back to the way it was.....

[pettyofficernick]

Cal, you can post questions about the new layout here....   http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=11159.765

[muleears]

I have finally been able to tinker a little with the boat. I have attached my air brush compressor to the motor and I seem to have a lot of drive line noise, I was hoping you could help me identify.  I will attempt to upload a video to youtube so you all may hear it. My investigation finds nothing bumping anything else, there is no binding, everything turns smoothly. I have not permanently mounted the driveshaft yet.  My theory is that, since I am using the "pin and wheel" setup it is simply the inherent slack in the setup. The pin on the prop shaft gets ahead of the other and when they meet it clanks.  But I would think if there was a load on the prop there would not be a chance for one to get ahead of the other.  I have tested this by putting a finger (drag) on the prop hub and it makes no difference.  I cannot identify exactly where the sound comes from. If I hold the propshaft, I can feel when it clanks.  Moving the propshaft in or out makes little difference.  Is this just a typical sound for this type of driveline? Suggestions are welcome.  Youtube video is here:   http://youtu.be/HQigXPSSfLM

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Looking at you film, I notice that you do not have the prop shaft nut up close to the tube. The shaft should not be able to move in and out of the tube.

Have you greased the shaft as well ?  The noise is reminiscent of a mechanical clunk as it's quite a hard sound. I would disconnect the drive system and go for setting it up to revolve quietly first.

Cheers

ken

[pettyofficernick]

Hi Cal, that noise is coming from the engine end of the shaft, it sounds like the coupling is hitting the metal plate beneath, check all round the disk drive and make sure it is not hitting anywhere. turn the engine over by hans , stop when you start to feel resistance and have a good look. Is the shaft secured properly?
Regards,
Nick.

[pettyofficernick]

I also agree with Kenny, I did not notice the nut being loose.....

[muleears]

Thanks gentlemen, I will look in to your suggestions.  I have verified that the coupling isn't striking anything, I have not properly secured the shaft as  I still have to shorten it (not sure yet what length).  The prop nut is jammed against the prop, but not near the stuffing box.  I guess I will bite the bullet and shorten the shaft about one half inch, then put it all back together (with the prop nut properly installed) and see what we get.  Thank you for your prompt and insightful offerings

[pettyofficernick]

Hi Cal, make sure the locknut on the prop rests against the stern tube, put a washer in between if you have one, the prop needs to be locked in case it unscrews its self when going astern.....
Regards,
Nick.

[muleears]

I have shortened the shaft as short as I can and still have it exit the tube.  I've installed a washer, a little big but will suffice for now.  I have not secured the tube and I have not lubed it either.  I have some white lithium grease that I think would work, but I'm afraid to lube it before I permanently mount it as I don't want any grease on the unfinished wood or where glue may need to adhere. 

I put it back together and still have pretty much the same noise.  I think a solid mounting of the tube and some lube will quiet a lot of it.  We shall see...      I should also mention there is about .01" of fore and aft play in the prop shaft, just enough so there is no binding.

[muleears]

Hi Cal, make sure the locknut on the prop rests against the stern tube, put a washer in between if you have one, the prop needs to be locked in case it unscrews its self when going astern.....
Regards,
Nick.

Wouldn't some Loc-Tite be prudent here?

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Another thought was to actually press down on the tube when it's running.  That way, you can push and bend sideways and jiggle about to see if the noise changes.  It can be done safely at lower revolutions and it's how I line up mine for the best running position.


ken