Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 115473 times)

muleears · « **Reply #75 on:** August 12, 2012, 12:51:34 pm »

Should I proceed to finish the deck (with full strength polyU) at this point? It has one coat of 50/50 on it now. I have the rubbing strakes and spacers on, except the stern. They each have one or two coats of poly on them now I have not installed the bulkheads or the boiler room floor. I have been fiddling with the capstrip and the bow block for most of the evening, trying to whittle them down to where they fit properly. I have them to the point that I am satisfied with their fit and I have put a couple coats of poly on them. I think next I'll install them on the boat. This is what prompted the question about finish on the deck. I'd like it protected from incident (me actually

). What do you think? When did you finish your deck?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #76 on:** August 12, 2012, 01:13:59 pm »

Hi Cal, I put a few coats on the deck to protect it whilst working on the rest if the boat, then a light rub down and a couple more coats to finish at the end of the build.
Keep up the good work.
Nick

muleears · « **Reply #77 on:** August 13, 2012, 09:57:55 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on August 12, 2012, 01:13:59 pm

Hi Cal, I put a few coats on the deck to protect it whilst working on the rest if the boat, then a light rub down and a couple more coats to finish at the end of the build.
Keep up the good work.
Nick

Gloss, semi-gloss or satin? Which is most authentic, which looks best, and which would you use? It may be too late, I have already put a coat of semi on it. I suppose I can cover it with gloss and it will look fine, it that is the preferred type. As always, thanks.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #78 on:** August 13, 2012, 10:25:44 pm »

Hi Cal,It really depends on what looks good to you. I finished mine with a good gloss, one of the advantages to that is it seems easier to wipe clean of oil and muck chucked out by the engine. Have you tried doing some test pieces? finish several pieces of similar wood with the different finishes you have available, and then pick the one that you think looks the best.
Keep at it,
Regards,
Nick.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #79 on:** August 13, 2012, 11:24:18 pm »

Hi Cal,It really depends on what looks good to you. I finished mine with a good gloss, one of the advantages to that is it seems easier to wipe clean of oil and muck chucked out by the engine. Have you tried doing some test pieces? finish several pieces of similar wood with the different finishes you have available, and then pick the one that you think looks the best.
Keep at it,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #80 on:** August 14, 2012, 03:51:31 pm »

A couple pics of how the deck looks in semi-gloss poly.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #81 on:** August 14, 2012, 04:31:27 pm »

Lookin good.....

muleears · « **Reply #82 on:** August 14, 2012, 05:48:01 pm »

I'm not happy with the block on the prow, it wasn't a pretty piece of wood to begin with and my carving it up didn't help. But its permanently affixed now so it will have to do.

I think I'm going to switch to gloss from this point on. I hadn't considered your point about clean up. That makes good sense, and with my motor being an oscillator I'm sure it will fling stuff far and wide.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #83 on:** August 14, 2012, 05:56:18 pm »

Indeed it will. It will also make a mess inside, I was going to make 2 pieces of aluminium sheet to fit against the inside of the hull, either side of the engine to stop the oil staining the white paintwork when the engine is running, but didnt get round to it. Now it is very dirty around the engine area.

muleears · « **Reply #84 on:** August 18, 2012, 06:05:59 pm »

A couple pics of the deck with gloss poly applied. I like it much better, good idea Nick. I haven't used any steel wool on this yet either, that will be my next step. I like the uneven nature of the deck planking, looks more realistic to me. If it were glass smooth I think it would look fake and factory made, not hand made.

Thanks again for the advice.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #85 on:** August 18, 2012, 06:24:19 pm »

Looking very good mate, you will end up with a nice boat there. Time to start on the engine room next?

muleears · « **Reply #86 on:** August 18, 2012, 07:49:22 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on August 18, 2012, 06:24:19 pm

Looking very good mate, you will end up with a nice boat there. Time to start on the engine room next?

Yes, I suppose so. I am somewhat intimidated by that, getting all the parts lined up properly and plumbed. I'm not good at soldering and the myriad of different threads and sizes of the plumbing pieces is confusing! I think I can mount the engine ok, but beyond that I will have to rely heavily on you and the others who have been so kind as to offer help. I have a small inventory of brass and copper pipe, fittings, valves etc. Problem is, I don't know if any of them fit together!

On an entirely different topic, I think I can make an oil condenser out of this little torch. What do you think? I know others have done it, I have a brass one too.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #87 on:** August 18, 2012, 08:51:46 pm »

Hi Cal, don't be daunted by the plumbing, it's easy Get yourself a mini pipe bender, it will be a great help, best to use either 5/32 or 1/8 pipe, unions are readily available, all you need to do is place all the major components, bend the pipework to suit, slide a union nut over the pipe, making sure it is the right way round, put the coned nipple on and silver solder, simples, try and keep your pipe runs as short as possible and lag with silver foil and string. Heres a link to some handy tips for soldering. Your cannister should make a fine oil seperator, have the exhaust entering at a tangent to swirl the oily steam about so the oil gets thrown out and clean steam can exit to the funnel. The photo will show how simple things can be, so set too and it will soon be done, http://cupalloys.co.uk/silver-soldering-tips-c25.html
Regards,
Nick.

derekwarner · « **Reply #88 on:** August 18, 2012, 11:14:08 pm »

Cal....your local hobby supplier of K&S tube will also have the K&S tube benders & cutter...well worth the cost in terms of savings in crumpled tube bends = the scrap box

The first image are the 1/8"& 5/32" tube benders & the cutter, the second image ......clean smooth 90 degree bends with minimal thinning....& the third image

yes a crumpled 5/32" bend.......prior to the tube benders

and the last is 180 degrees in 5/32"brass...........Derek

PS....even with expensive tube cutters you can have problems.....

with the clearance between the hole in the cutting wheel and the pin that it rotates on....it can lay over and as you attempt to rotatate the cutter, the wheel wants to cut a spiral thread.......

If this happens....try filing a very light mark on the OD of the tube & place the wheel in this mark when comencing the rotation.......it can help

muleears · « **Reply #89 on:** August 19, 2012, 12:27:22 pm »

Thanks for the link Nick it was useful. I have a tubing bender as shown in Derek's pics, not sure what size it is though. I also have some 5/32 brass tubing in 1' lengths. I also have 3' of copper in 5/32". I don't have a cutter, I had read somewhere that the traditional tubing cutters don't work well on such small tubing, that it was better to wrap with tape and cut with a fine tooth saw. What say you? I have several fittings of different sizes, I wasn't sure what went with 5/32 tubing. I have a displacement oiler. I'll have to learn more about that, how often to refill etc.

muleears · « **Reply #90 on:** August 19, 2012, 01:41:53 pm »

As usual my memory was faulty. My stock of tubing includes, 6' in 1' sections of 1/8" brass tubing, 4' in 1' lengths of 1/4" brass tubing. and one 3' length of 5/16" copper tubing and 3 1' lengths of brass in 5/16"(I think). Apparently I was thinking 1/8" was the size to use. I suppose with a smaller motor is may be appropriate, but my PMR M8 will use some steam I imagine and need the larger 5/16" pipe.

Below is a photo of my fitting inventory:

All are copper (except the unions) and threaded, I believe they are the same size too. I guess I will need some taps and dies, but I have no idea what size and thread to get. Can I mix copper and brass or must everything be one or the other?

Not shown in the picture are my displacement oiler and spare safety valve.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #91 on:** August 19, 2012, 03:51:24 pm »

Hi Cal, PMR have a range of pre threaded 3/16 pipe in various lengths, 5/16 is a bit big, 5/32 or 3/16 will be best. I have my PMR piped up with 5/32 pipe and it supplies plenty of steam, you will just need a 1/4 x 40 adapter to connect to your boiler. If you need one, PMR also have a range of dies to suit their tubing.
Regards,
Nick.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #92 on:** August 19, 2012, 03:54:27 pm »

Quote from: muleears on August 19, 2012, 12:27:22 pm

Thanks for the link Nick it was useful. I have a tubing bender as shown in Derek's pics, not sure what size it is though. I also have some 5/32 brass tubing in 1' lengths. I also have 3' of copper in 5/32". I don't have a cutter, I had read somewhere that the traditional tubing cutters don't work well on such small tubing, that it was better to wrap with tape and cut with a fine tooth saw. What say you? I have several fittings of different sizes, I wasn't sure what went with 5/32 tubing. I have a displacement oiler. I'll have to learn more about that, how often to refill etc.

Hi Cal, I use my Dremel to cut tubing with, use one of the brown cutting disks, works a treat, just make sure you wash all the swarf out of the pipe.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #93 on:** August 19, 2012, 05:39:07 pm »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on August 19, 2012, 03:51:24 pm

Hi Cal, PMR have a range of pre threaded 3/16 pipe in various lengths, 5/16 is a bit big, 5/32 or 3/16 will be best. I have my PMR piped up with 5/32 pipe and it supplies plenty of steam, you will just need a 1/4 x 40 adapter to connect to your boiler. If you need one, PMR also have a range of dies to suit their tubing.
Regards,
Nick.

I think I misspoke, I don't believe I have any 5/16, I think it is 5/32, it is larger than my 1/8 and smaller than my 1/4. That sound about right? I hate fractions!

Why couldn't it just be 3 or3.5mm and so on? Jimmy Carter dropped the ball in 1976 when he didn't make us convert to the metric system... I digress, sorry. I need to get everything mounted before I worry about plumbing anyway.

So you think the little torch will work? That's good, I think it would be a simple little project to ease me into soldering these small pipes.

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #94 on:** August 23, 2012, 02:24:23 pm »

Hi Cal, silver soldering pipe ends up couldn't be easier, especially if you use silver solder paste, just clean the job up, smear on a little paste, assemble and heat, you will know when it is done as you will see a nice shiny silver ring around the joint. Leave to cool and clean, if the flux residue is a little stubborn dip it in vinegar or lemon juice for a few minutes, works every time for me...
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #95 on:** August 25, 2012, 04:29:36 pm »

Its pouring here... so I can't cut the grass (

) Guess I'll have to work on the boat! In my gunstock refinishing days I was taught not to use steel wool on wood as the fine particles that get left later rust and discolor the wood. So I bought some bronze wool and rubbed down the deck of the Victoria. Seems to be smoother and it shouldn't discolor. What do you wipe it down with after sanding the finish to get the dust off? Can I use paint thinner or will that damage the finish? Or should I just use a tack cloth?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #96 on:** August 25, 2012, 05:17:21 pm »

Hi Cal, tack rag is good, I usually use a soft cloth with a little meths ( Methylated Spirit) first to make sure the job is clean, Keep us posted,
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #97 on:** September 04, 2012, 04:53:11 pm »

Do any (or all) of you put a coat or two on all the bare wood in your boat? I'm talking about the back side of the front bulkhead, the underside of the deck, the ribs beneath the floor etc. In my old hydro building days we use to paint the entire frame with varnish to protect it from water damage. Is that still the common practice?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #98 on:** September 04, 2012, 04:59:14 pm »

Hi Cal, best to coat whatever you can reach, that way, you know you are safe from water damage, but try and avoid edges where you are going to make joints, glue is best applied to bare wood for a good strong join.
Regards,
Nick.

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #99 on:** September 04, 2012, 07:00:53 pm »

I usually use polyurethane as a sealer/waterproofer, put masking tape over the areas you want to be bare the cover every thing else with poly, when it starts to dry peal off the tape. After the joints are glued give them a brush over with poly as insurance.
Regards,
Gerald.

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Author Topic: My Krick Victoria - MkII (Read 115473 times)