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[Ashley]

Hi everyone, new here. I've always been into boats and model boats and I have recently inherited a steam tug. A few parts and valves on the steam plant are beyond me, so I've taken some pics and will post them on here and any comments and help would be appreciated, thanks.
Pic of the tug overall

Pic of condenser. Not sure how it works, as I cant see a way to drain the oil. The hand turn valve you see sends it back to the refill tank and the screwdriver valve goes to the stack so how does it work?

Am I right that this is a pump to refill the boiler driven off the crank? It connects to the boiler on one end and then to the two outlets on the side of the boat.

This is the end of the pump pictured previously that connects to the boiler, it has a valve pictured here, no idea what thats for, one side of the valve goes out of the boat. Once this pipe gets to the pump a line goes from the pump to the clear pipe pictured in the bottom of the pic.

Two outlets pictured from inside previously.

Better pic of the condenser. The exhaust pipe from the engine goes up to the bow of the boat in a loop and back into the condenser.

Pic of the engine and am I right in thinking that this is a mechanical oiler coming from the silver box? the silver box lever is connected to the crank and then a pipe comes out the bottom of it to the little pot on the steam line to the engine, how does this work?

Pic of engine, I know its a twin cylinder slide valve engine, but any ideas on the make, could be a home build.

Variable pitch prop.

Variable pitch prop mechanism

Sorry for the long post but help would be really appreciated, thanks all

[derekwarner]

Welcome Ashley....you seem to have inherited a very complex steam build & machinary construction

1. Working model examples of a variable pitch propeller are certainly not common
2. Some of the tube joints appear to be silver soldered, some may be soft soldered...one appears to have GREEN tape of some description   [exhaust line]

If you don't have a great working knowledge of steam....I would suggest you find a model steam club [marine or rail].... ... go along & introduce yourself
Many or most model steam clubs have a number of knowledgeable helpful members...so after you have found such a club & joined as a member...discuss your steam plant....then say

"oh...I just happen to have it in the back of my car"

There are a number of very knowlegeable steam members here on Mayhem who will also offer helpful comment, however they are limited to the images you provide

Keep us posted with your progress & the comments and advice offered....remember....you will need current boiler test certification prior to using it in a public location.......but it would also be for your safety & knowledge

Again, your model steam club should have a member who has the credentials to test & provide a valid steam test certificate for the boiler & gas tank

Derek

[HS93 (RIP)]

looks like a Stuart double 10 very nice plant, someone put a lot of work in to it, do you want to sail it,if so find someone close by to help you out where are you by the way UK/USA/moon  if we had an idea someone on hear may be able to help.

Peter

[malcolmbeak]

The engine looks as though it is all bronze, so it isn't a Double 10. I think it looks very like Westbury's Warrior engine - 3/4" bore and 5/8" stroke. So it is definitely home made, and looks to be to very nicely done.
The silver box will, as you surmise, be a mechanical lubricator probably a little oscillating pump. Quite unusual on marine plant where most folk use displacement lubricators.
Please don't call the oil trap a condenser. The last thing you want it to do is condense the steam as it would quickly fill up and overflow. It should be kept as hot as possible to STOP condensation.
Derek is so right that the best move would be to contact a steam orientated club

Malcolm

[Circlip]

Curved sides on cylinder support standards say Warrior rather than D10.

  Regards  Ian.

[ooyah/2]

Hi everyone, new here. I've always been into boats and model boats and I have recently inherited a steam tug. A few parts and valves on the steam plant are beyond me, so I've taken some pics and will post them on here and any comments and help would be appreciated, thanks.
Pic of the tug overall

Ashley,

You question  No 1.
It looks as tho' the valve with the slot cuts of the exhaust steam to the funnel and when closed with the other valve open and the engine running it will pump the condensate into the blue tank forard.

Question No 2.
Yes that is an engine driven boiler feed pump which pics up the water from the pond via the clear tube ( suction end ) and feeds the boiler, the other is a bypass valve ( delivery end ) which allows you to adjust the boiler requirements by bleeding water back overboard.

Question No 3.

The mechanical oiler feeds oil into the steam line via the non return valve, this stops steam going into the oiler.

Question No 4.

The engine is Reeves WARRIOR as Ian has said  3/4" bore x 5/8" stroke.

The lever on the end of the spindle on the boiler take off ( painted black on top of the boiler ) is a steam regulator valve which controls the speed of the engine.

You are a very lucky chap with your inheritance , some body has made a very good job of the steam plant, can't help with the models name.

It must all look very complicated to a new comer to steam but it's not Rocket science just follow all the pipes and you will soon get the hang of it , but better still get it checked out by a steam model club before firing it up, hope that this helps.

WELCOME TO THE BURNY FINGER BRIGADE.

George.  

[Ashley]

Ashley,

You question  No 1.
It looks as tho' the valve with the slot cuts of the exhaust steam to the funnel and when closed with the other valve open and the engine running it will pump the condensate into the blue tank forard.

Question No 2.
Yes that is an engine driven boiler feed pump which pics up the water from the pond via the clear tube ( suction end ) and feeds the boiler, the other is a bypass valve ( delivery end ) which allows you to adjust the boiler requirements by bleeding water back overboard.

Question No 3.

The mechanical oiler feeds oil into the steam line via the non return valve, this stops steam going into the oiler.

Question No 4.

The engine is Reeves WARRIOR as Ian has said  3/4" bore x 5/8" stroke.

The lever on the end of the spindle on the boiler take off ( painted black on top of the boiler ) is a steam regulator valve which controls the speed of the engine.

You are a very lucky chap with your inheritance , some body has made a very good job of the steam plant, can't help with the models name.

It must all look very complicated to a new comer to steam but it's not Rocket science just follow all the pipes and you will soon get the hang of it , but better still get it checked out by a steam model club before firing it up, hope that this helps.

WELCOME TO THE BURNY FINGER BRIGADE.

George.  

Firstly thanks for the help everyone, a wealth of knowledge on here!
The blue tank where the condensate goes to, surely that would overflow very quickly? Also I thought the boiler would take water from it aswell. Yes I think the person who built it was a steam engineer so he set it up to his taste. It was a retirement project and then unfortunately he died without using it much. I think I will find a model club to go to, thanks all

I also found that the silver box contains oil.

[Ashley]

About the testing of the boiler, how do I get it tested if I dont know the working pressure?

[derekwarner]

Ashley notes.....

1. "The blue tank where the condensate goes to, surely that would overflow very quickly? Also I thought the boiler would take water from it aswell"....no  ...this is oily condensate ...no we must never put this back into the boiler

2. "how do I get it tested if I dont know the working pressure?" ....let the person with the credentials at the model steam club make an assessment of the build......are there any markings on the boiler casing?..........

Derek

[Shipmate60]

The safety valve should be marked with a pressure, this is the highest pressure on the boiler.

Bob

[ooyah/2]

The safety valve should be marked with a pressure, this is the highest pressure on the boiler.

Bob

Bob,

The safety valve does not need to be marked with the working pressure. If the boiler has been hydraulic tested at any time and passed as tested, the society or club that tested and issued the certificate should have the details of the Society or club with  the working pressure and date of initial test clearly stamped or engraved on the boiler shell.
Ashley's problem is that his knowledge of steam plants is nil and is strongly advised to seek help from a a Model boat club with a steam section or an Engineering society for advice.

George.

[Shipmate60]

George,
Couldn't agree more.

Bob

[Ashley]

Ashley notes.....

1. "The blue tank where the condensate goes to, surely that would overflow very quickly? Also I thought the boiler would take water from it aswell"....no  ...this is oily condensate ...no we must never put this back into the boiler

With the blue tank I have a choice whether to send the steam up the stack or back to the tank so its not just oily condensate.
Nothing stamped on the boiler by the way.

[derekwarner]

Ashley.......the purpose of the de-olier is just that  ......we need to maintain the exhaust steam @ the highest possible temperature prior to admision to the de-olier....lagging with string or the like will assist here

This is also a little mystifing as to why the exhaust steam on this model is piped a considerable distance greater than required

 ...so the oily steam enters the de-oiler & is swirled around the wall of the body resulting in the oil seperating & condensing as oil leaving the bulk of the steam as oil free and passes up the chimney as steam

The issue of putting oily water back into the boiler is that the oil droplets will form on the surface where they land....the result is a loss in thermal transfer.....this may not sound to be a great issue ....but the result is more heat up the chimney & less heat transferred to boil the water & produce steam.........Derek

[Ashley]

Ashley.......the purpose of the de-olier is just that  ......we need to maintain the exhaust steam @ the highest possible temperature prior to admision to the de-olier....lagging with string or the like will assist here

This is also a little mystifing as to why the exhaust steam on this model is piped a considerable distance greater than required

 ...so the oily steam enters the de-oiler & is swirled around the wall of the body resulting in the oil seperating & condensing as oil leaving the bulk of the steam as oil free and passes up the chimney as steam

The issue of putting oily water back into the boiler is that the oil droplets will form on the surface where they land....the result is a loss in thermal transfer.....this may not sound to be a great issue ....but the result is more heat up the chimney & less heat transferred to boil the water & produce steam.........Derek

Yes the exhaust steam is routed up to the bow and in a loop where the gas tank is and then back to the oil trap. So the oil will stay in trap then, but how do I empty it? Just take the top off?

[KNO3]

Sounds like the exhaust steam is used to heat up the gas tank (to keep it from freezing, which can reduce burner performance).

For emptying the oil trap, there usually is a separate pipe or valve. If not, you open it and empty it with a syringe connected to a suitable length of thin rubber tubing to reach the bottom of the tank.

[derekwarner]

Good call .... KNO3   

"Sounds like the exhaust steam is used to heat up the gas tank (to keep it from freezing, which can reduce burner performance"

Expelling the contents of the de-oiler........ could be achieved as a pressure purge?.....this is best covered by the inspection of a competent person 

Like ........let the person with the credentials at the model steam club make an assessment of the build & offer the recommendations or simple comments on how to purge the de-oiler ....... Derek

[Ashley]

Yea I'll find a steam club of some kind to go to with my tug and to also get it tested. The use of the exhaust to heat the gas tank sounds like a good one. The top comes of the oil trap quite easily so I think that would be the best way to empty it.