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• Nimitz Build/Conversion: July 11, 2012

[Armo61]

Hello all out there. My first posting so I hope it is in the correct location.
Firstly to Peter thank you for the Welcome most appreciated.
Now let us start.
I was sitting quietly at home yesterday afternoon, when there was a knock at the door. There stood a young gentleman whom I have helped out previously with some of his Radio Control issues.
In his hand was a large box. "I have a present for you' said he "I don't want this and I have not the time to build it so for your help here you are".
The box in perfect condition contained a full model Kit of the Trumpeter brand U.S. CVN-68 Nimitz Aircraft Carrier 1975.
It's bits and pieces still all in the plastic wrappings etc and what a size at 1/350 a big kit.
Now my reason for contacting the forum for all the help I can get.
I want to Radio Control this Kit. I believe it would be a beautiful scale vessel on the water done correctly so has anyone done something like this to make a stock kit into a R/C Kit??
I have the old aircraft carrier that you can buy on Ebay with the Vector drive, but I was thinking of using the 2 motors plus drive shafts and stuffing tubes etc to make up a main drive system for the Nimitz.
I would need a twin rudder set up also and suitable Electronic Speed Controller coupled with a Radio System 2.4ghz to make it work.
Also the ballast, would say a 9.6 or 7.2 NIMH or ??? be suitable
Now these are just my ideas . Is there any info that you might help with to enable me to do this. I am not touching the bottom Hull until I work something out hopefully along with your help.
I look forward to your assistance in getting this Aircraft Carrier onto the water. Any assistance via purchasing bits and pieces through the Internet would also be appreciated.
I look forward with excitement to your replies in this project.
Thank you
Charles

[AlanT]

Hi Charles....

I am currently building the Enterprise from the Tamiya kit to the same scale.

I've completed the R/C bits and peices on mine as shown below :-



Like your boat my Enterprise should have 4 motors etc.....I chose to install only two motors/shafts/props on the two inner locations and leave the outer shafts as dummies. I also chose not to install two ruders but used a single rudder instead.

Motors used were MFA (the smallest in their range), The ESC was Viper 15 Amp and the battery 6 volt. Planet 2.4 Ghz receiver.

As for weight, I think the boat may require a detachable keel, but I can't confirm at the moment until I have got a little further with the build.

This is obviously only one option. There are some others detailed on the RC Groups Forum which use four motors/two rudder set ups.

Regards

Alan

[glendavis1971]

Hi Charles

If it was me I wouldn't bother with rudders and use 2 mfa 140re motors each with a motroniks 10amp esc's connected with a motroniks v tail mixer. These can be bought from any R/C model shop or online I'd try http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/. For props shafts and couplings I'd e mail the prop shop for advice http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/ think a m2 shaft is proberly pretty close scal wise think the do 5 blade props too. The v tail will give you better manouverabillty than rudders. I do suggest you assembly the hull and ensure its water tight before you do anything then i'd add ballast to see how much is required and work from there with the battery I think 6v proberly the best choice i tried 7.2 in my uss melvin which was way over the top. I also agree with alan and add a detachable keel to get the c of g as low as poss to aid stability. For the 2.4 R/C you can't go far wrong with the planet T5 also from howes A good simple system that won't break the bank.

Glen

[Armo61]

Wow such a mine of information I am really appreciative of all your inputs so far.
What I have done is virtually nothing haha I sat last night after I pulled the chinese Aircraft Carrier Apart and sat the 2 x 380's in their motor mounts and they seemed to fit extremely well so I was happy not too much to situate motors at least it seems. Should I use the water line decking inside below the Hangar decking or leave it out for the R/C conversion???
I then tried the stuffing tubes props etc attached to the couplings from the Chinese Ship and they seemed to fit aok also.
I like the idea shown in the pictures many thanks and it seems like it would work a treat, What size Rudder would you be using if just a single rudder is to be used ???. I found the Chinese Boat had a 9.6V Nicad (Allan I noticed in your Pictures you have a large battery in the Enterprise, is that a Motor bike battery???) in it plus a load of ballast which looked like sand glued together in a Plastic Bag and also 2 weights fitted at the Stern.
I will keep this as it could come in handy later on after as you say get the Hull watertight then start with the innard workings.
I will look at the info re props via links you have supplied which is really terrific and will see what they suggest re the 4 drive. I would also like to put a Sound effects board into her and small lights if these are available so I better have a rethink re the battery power or use 2 x Nicads = 1 as drive 1 as accessories.
I have had no experience in like the b atteries 6v or 12v which a lot of you people in the boating hobby seem to use.
So, won't do anything yet until info is fully done and parts ordered or ???
Many thank you's again, Oh Glen, I do have a Planet 5 which I inherited from a broken Helicopter so thanks for that and I also have a spare 6 and 4 channel receiver for that. It is a stick Transmitter but I guess I need that for all the extra additions like sound modules etc.
Charles

[Armo61]

Okay thanks to my 2 helpers out there.
 
I have been in contact with the Prop shop and seem to really know what they are doing.

They came up with the suggestion to keep the 2 inner prop assemblies as dummies and motorize the outside shaft and prop assemblies, Just as you said Alan, so it looks the way to go. Prop size dia will be 19mm/ 5 blade, and I have to meassure actual Shaft and Tube and they will make to order.

So to keep all in perspective 2 shafts with props working and 2 dummies to be fitted for scale.

I will also order some decent couplings from the Motors to the Prop Shafts.

I will keep it as a Single Rudder and also will order a couple of sizes while I am at it so I can fit it up with correct size rudder also.

I also found a completely unused Planet 5, 2.4 ghz Rx/Tx 4 channel set in my shed so the radio system is solved also.

Order to be placed on Saturday with measurements. then its just a matter of delivery time from UK to Here.

Will have a look at the Glue/Paint size for Nimitz also.

 They suggest Flat paints and Semi Gloss, Main colour scheme is Light Grey which most of the Hull is anyway and a Dark Sea Grey for upper areas.

 Would you suggest leaving the main colours just the colour of the Kit with touch ups later on or, would you suggest a complete paint job all over???

Would be interested to here your comments on that bit of NIMITZ.

Charles

[glendavis1971]

The are prop shop are great, glad they cpuld help. I alway paint my models with humbrol or white ensign enamels followed by several coats of humbrol spray enamel 135 satin varnish. If you can find the us navy code white ensign will have the exact colours used by the us navy.

Good luck mate please share photos of your progress

Glen

[Armo61]

Thank you Glen,

 I was wondering if anyone would be interested in me taking photographs of the build/conversion.

I will see if i can get my camera charged up again, I havent used it for a while and I will start from scratch with the pictures, hopefully they will not be too boring.

I do not know if we can get White Ensign paints here in Australia but the Trumpeter paint shown in plans I believe, matches a Mr Hobby paints, so I will start there with colours. Not many are required I think only 5 or 6 including the many small aircraft which will be a handful in themselves for me. I better see if i can get a clip on Magnifier as the old eyes are not the best any more.

Now to order the various glues I am thinking of using and will join lower of Hulls and check for water tightness before proceeding with Motor mounts etc. Plenty of time waiting for different deliveries.

Charles

[AlanT]

Well Done Charles....It is good to get started.

My prop tubes were M2 from Steve's Model Bits...and also the rudder which is his medium model...

Bit of a disaster with mine as I was adding lead to try and balance the hull when it sprung a leak and started shipping water. Ithought I had sealed the base with fibreglass mat and resin but it lifted and allowed water through.
I've now resealed on the outside of the hull and will test again on Monday....My slapdash work I'm afraid, I've learnt my lesson and will do better next time!...
Regards

Alan

[Armo61]

Hey Alan

I hope all goes well for you Mate and I hope it is not a promise of things to come.

You and Glen have been a mine of help and information so I am sure this Nimitz will float and perform for me in the location I plan to sail her.

I am lucky in the fact that being in the Outback we have what I call a Billabong which floods naturally every year and is about 1 perhaps 2 kilometers in length and say 2 at its width. fairly deep and can take a sailing boat with keel also. So seeing as I appear to be the only Scale boatie around here I have it all to myself.

I will take on board your info re the M2 prop tubes and Rudder. I just have to work out the correct lengths although, I had an old prop shaft and stuffing tube complete with a small prop  from believe it or not one of the Uk's early Huffy Eco boats and that seems to fit really well for size on the Outer drives.

So I will measure it up and use those sizings plus the props from the prop shop as I have spoken to them already and that should be what I need to get the drives going.

I have decided to stick to the 7.2v for power as I dont think I will be adding any attachments and if so, I believe a lot of stuff comes in 7.2 now anyhow,
perhaps someone can help me with that side of things.

I will also order some paint and glue this weekend coming from Ebay and start on the Aircraft of which there are an abundance haha

Thank you
Charles

[110samec]

Something I regret doing now is researching to put RC in my airfix Illustrious. I reckon that that would look nice on the water, not too big too. Does anybody know if anyone's RC'd any airfix 1/350 ships (Illustrious, Type 45, Trafalgar)?

[cos918]

Hello Charles
I have built the USS Enterprise http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=936346.
Few facts you should know. These are big boats with very little in the water. This means a few things.
1 the hull can not support a lot of weight ie big batterys
2 put ballest inside the hull and take her down to the water line. one bit of wind and she will role over. I went down the keel route and to say she is rock soild is an understatment.
I would get a lipo 7.4v 200mah as a battery. X2 mtronics minture ESC as they can take the voltage.
For prop shafts get down to you local model shop and have a look in the KS metal centre get some brass tubing and rod. Since the rod is imperial turn the end down a fraction run a M2 die up it and there you have a prop shaft. NOTE propshop props are the best you can buy but they are heavy whn compaired to the plastic props from the kit wich work ok but are a bit fragile. I would go down the 2 rudder route on Enterprise I got all 4 turning and she spins on the spot just on her rudders.

John

[Armo61]

Hello Cos918,

That was terrific I had a look at the link and Wow there is more work than I ever thought but looking at those pictures the results are really spot on arn't they.
 
Lots and Lots of work to do. Unfortunately no model shops here for miles so relying on links from your knowledgable people who have done or are in the know of these models.

I have everything still wrapped in plastic so will look at using some of the plastics maybe but with my limited skills I think a bit much for me and also, no real experience in soldering brass sheeting let alone finding any here if you get my drift,

Ok Im onto the prop shop shortly and will discuss the shafts etc as they advised can make anything I want so if I have to pay so be it but tks
its a great experience for me.

Charles

[glendavis1971]

I agree with john Charles its deff going to require a keel. I'd still recommend 6v as 7.2 will be vastly overpowered. If you have a look at my USS Melvin thread http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=37890.0 theres a nice pic of prop shop brass props you see the quality well worth the money remember your need left and right had props so the run contrarotating

samec

I'm looking at converting airfix's HMS Illustrious after USS Melvin still trying to work out weather to go for single or twin props

Glen

[Armo61]

Okay tks Glen will see but I can always govern power for scale purposes and I see a lot better here in that power range.

6 volt is like a queer thingie to me haha Im used to Nimh, Nicads and Lipo,s

Perhaps we could give 110samec a hand as I see he is asking re Model conversion on Airfix and I see you are looking at an Airfix Kit of the HMS Illustrious???

Well have gone to the prop shop and so far have ordered the 4 suggested props being 19 dia 2 x 5 blade and 2 by 4 blade R/H and L/H.

I have also sent them a listing of measurements I have taken re Stuffing Tubes and Prop Shaft sizes for 4 Motors being staggered so will see how much when I burst into tears.

I am glad they take Paypal so I shall pay for all that on Saturday Morning.

Props are also made of Bronze and I was going to try and use the Plastic Mounts that come in the Kit, but if need be, I see Prop Shop also has a range of mounts to suit so there is another option.

Might get a couple of their Bronze Anchors also for the Scale Effect.

I will work on a keel for Nimitz once she has come together below decks.
 
I have a couple of old Sailing boats with the lead weighted keel Bulbs so I am not too worried re weight at this time haha might use the whole keel now would'nt that be something??

Charles

[cos918]

Ok Charles
here are some links.
prop shaft
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/m2_propshafts.html     go for the  longer one and put X4 in you can all ways power the X2 inside later.
Motor
http://www.graupner.de/en/products/5c5b118e-afc6-4ee2-b03a-c3f2e91947c1/6379/product.aspx
couplings
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/raboesch-couplings.html
rudders
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/boat_rudders.html I would look at the smalest one
Stearing servo
http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/RadioControl/viewProduct.php?ProdID=6073
ESC
http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/RadioControl/viewProduct.php?ProdID=2693

I know Howes have a brass metal centre for the square brass fro the Keel. Both Howes and cornwallmodelboates offer good worldwide mail order service.

This list is just a quick pick of the shelf do check both prop shaft length and rudder size before ordering. have a look at HK
 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/index.rc?whl=XXX they do good deals on RC

For the people I used this company but I cant find 1/350 brass etched people on there web site ,drop them an email and see if they still make them
https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/


John

[cos918]

I found 6v to be under powred. these small props need to run at high RPM to get the boats to move a reasionabel speed . Since I run X5 plastic ships on 7.4V lipo they run so much better. You do not have to use 100% throtel but it is there if you need it. Lipo are great on the weight front and weight is abig problem in these ships.

Charles
you do need to watch the weight on this ship .a brass anchor is extra weight above the water line wound not rec it but it is your call.
John

[Armo61]

Okay John,

will take your advice, at 13 plus quid each I really dont need em, do I haha.

Another reason I will use the 7.2 is that I have a whole lot of brand new batteries so will save monies that way.

Tks for Links Cos918, looks like tomorrow I have a bit of reading and ordering to do. I like the looks of the shaft pricings  straight away plus I need some couplers also.

Ok it is 0243am Sunday Morning here Piddling rain, cold and miserable, Dog is stinkin as usual, must be the chook bits I gave him lesson learned.
Phew.

So I will proceed to the Kitchen make me cuppa of nescafe and then get some shut eye.

Good night to you all and god bless

Catch you all tomorrow maybe??

Charles

[cos918]

have a good cup of coffie

seal up the hole in the hull with tape place her in the bath and add weight till she hits the water line .that will tell you how much weight you have to play with - the rest of the kit.

joh

[RAAArtyGunner]

A thought, if 7.2V is overpowered and seeing Charles already has a supply of these, why not use 7.2V.

Couldn't the speed, overpowering, be kept down using less 'throttle' ?

Also can 6V be obtained as Ni-cad/Nimh packs instead of gel cells?

[DickyD]

A thought, if 7.2V is overpowered and seeing Charles already has a supply of these, why not use 7.2V.

Couldn't the speed, overpowering, be kept down using less 'throttle' ?

Also can 6V be obtained as Ni-cad/Nimh packs instead of gel cells?

http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/large_packs.html

[RAAArtyGunner]

http://www.component-shop.co.uk/html/large_packs.html

 

[Armo61]

Hello to Glen, Alan, John, Dicky D, Raaartygunner from Queensland 2 thats good. Report for today.

Well gentlemen I have to give my report. Ha Ha nothing done on the Nimitiz, except prepare 4 shaft holes in the Hull for the new M2 Shafts and Stuffing tubes.
 
One Important question and I hope I am correct. The Stuffing tubes stop at where they exit the Hull and the prop shaft which is of course the longer goes down to the Prop and Shaft supports.

The stuffing tubes do not go right down to the props under the hull??? can some one advise me re this as I want to do it correctly. Thank you

Now I tell you Ha with all this info coming in I have been registering into the following UK shops, Might as well move over to Aberdeen where my daddy lives.

The Prop Shop

Cornwall Model Boats

Graupner in Germany

Howes Model co Uk.

I cannot say there is a shortage now of bits and pieces I need so with all help no excuses now is there. I will just have to take my time and buy pieces each fortnigjt when my pension comes in so we will call it a 12 month build, Hows that.

Now I went to the shed and found a Model of what I believe to be the Bismarck.

It was purchased on Ebay by my son about 3 years ago and is the same as that Smasher which I managed to convert to the Russian Destroyer following information on these Forums.

So I have pulled her down and will make her a quick build as most of it eg the running gear is already there, Motors stuffing tubes in place props and shafts  all I need and which I have is a main rudder which I can pinch off a small catamaran I have called the Gemeni and then give her a proper coat of paint.

I also have the Swastika emblem that was painted on her forward deck and then will only have to do the black and white striping which I think she used, on the side of the Hull but I will check.

Then I will have 3  good R/C sort of Scale ships the Sovremenny, The Bismarck and in a Year the Nimitz.
 
Doing all of this to old ships lying around is also giving me great practice would you believe, plus all your Help out there for which I thank you all again.

Okay I think thats about all Nimitz can wait and I will commence to do some work on Bismarck which has a LOA of 70 centimetres and a Beam of 12 centimetres approx.

I am loving this thanks for giving me back a great Hobby and Interest. Do not be surprised  If I advise re the purchase of that new Bismarck Ha one never knows

Charles

[Armo61]

Glen,  just sitting looking at this model I am converting of the battleship and thinking of this USS Melvin.

Re turning turrets.

I reckon there is enough room to use a mini servo on each turret then coupled with a y lead into the Rx of say a 4 or 6 ch set normally on a 4 channel you would have channels spare as only using 2 for basic workings so Y leads into spare channels on rx and you could control individual groups of 2 turrets at a time.

Also on a 6 channel would leave enough room in the middle of the Hull for say a graupner smoke unit of 7.2 V.

Good idea or what???

Charles

[cos918]

Hello to Glen, Alan, John, Dicky D, Raaartygunner from Queensland 2 thats good. Report for today.

Well gentlemen I have to give my report. Ha Ha nothing done on the Nimitiz, except prepare 4 shaft holes in the Hull for the new M2 Shafts and Stuffing tubes.
 
One Important question and I hope I am correct. The Stuffing tubes stop at where they exit the Hull and the prop shaft which is of course the longer goes down to the Prop and Shaft supports.

The stuffing tubes do not go right down to the props under the hull??? can some one advise me re this as I want to do it correctly. Thank you

Now I tell you Ha with all this info coming in I have been registering into the following UK shops, Might as well move over to Aberdeen where my daddy lives.

The Prop Shop

Cornwall Model Boats

Graupner in Germany

Howes Model co Uk.

I cannot say there is a shortage now of bits and pieces I need so with all help no excuses now is there. I will just have to take my time and buy pieces each fortnigjt when my pension comes in so we will call it a 12 month build, Hows that.

Now I went to the shed and found a Model of what I believe to be the Bismarck.

It was purchased on Ebay by my son about 3 years ago and is the same as that Smasher which I managed to convert to the Russian Destroyer following information on these Forums.

So I have pulled her down and will make her a quick build as most of it eg the running gear is already there, Motors stuffing tubes in place props and shafts  all I need and which I have is a main rudder which I can pinch off a small catamaran I have called the Gemeni and then give her a proper coat of paint.

I also have the Swastika emblem that was painted on her forward deck and then will only have to do the black and white striping which I think she used, on the side of the Hull but I will check.

Then I will have 3  good R/C sort of Scale ships the Sovremenny, The Bismarck and in a Year the Nimitz.
 
Doing all of this to old ships lying around is also giving me great practice would you believe, plus all your Help out there for which I thank you all again.

Okay I think thats about all Nimitz can wait and I will commence to do some work on Bismarck which has a LOA of 70 centimetres and a Beam of 12 centimetres approx.

I am loving this thanks for giving me back a great Hobby and Interest. Do not be surprised  If I advise re the purchase of that new Bismarck Ha one never knows

Charles

Hi Charles
you are correct in saying that the stuffing tube should stop just out side the hull. To do this you will need to make 2mm bearings for your A frames. The A frames will need to be rebuilt in Brass for strength as the plastic will be to weak. You will need to get some 2mm rod for need propshaft and get it tapped at one end . This is what I had to do to Enterprise, It looks good but it is a fair bit of work which includes soldering the 2mm bearings to new Brass A frames.
A second serjustion is to take the stuff tube to the prop/last A frame and modife the plastic A frames as a support ,less work but wont look as good.

john

[glendavis1971]

Go for it mate all info of what i did on my uss melvin thread now enjoy

Glen