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Author Topic: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne  (Read 16036 times)

Capt Podge

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1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« on: February 12, 2013, 01:39:48 AM »

Having built a number of kits, like so many others, I've decided to take the plunge and try my hand at scratchbuilding.
 
This will be a "double first" - i.e. 1st scratch build and 1st Warship.
Being the cautious type I'm starting off with a so-called "easy build" to see how we get on then maybe move on to PoF later.
 
The plan I'm using was produced a number of years ago by Vic Smeed for a leander class vessel which was designated the name "Sea Rider". This was for a model with l.o.a. of 30 inches. I wanted something a little bit bigger so I photocopied the plans at 148 %, giving me a model of 42.5 inches.
 
All parts (hull bottom, bulkheads 1, 2 & 3, stem piece, transom, main deck, deck break and foredeck) were traced and marked up on 4mm ply sheet and cut out with a Stanley knife and steel ruler, staying a few millimeters outside the lines.
 

picture hosting
 
These were then trimmed and sanded to the marked lines then the surfaces were given 3 coats of sanding sealer, sanding down between coats.
 
A dry assembly was then carried out. Bulkhead no.1 was found to be too narrow where it joins to the bottom of the hull !
Placed onto the plan BH1 was exactly correct so I have to assume something went wrong in the photocopy stage.
Anyway, I corrected the lines on the plan, made another tracing and cut out and treated the new bulkhead as above - perfect fit - glad I did the dry run !
 
So, onto the build: Bulkhead no.1 glued in place, checked for squareness and held in place with blocks until glue set. Same for stem piece and BH2 & BH3. I then ran more glue along each joint and added 1/4 inch square balsa strips for added strength.
 
Whilst the glue was drying I cut out and sanded to shape the maindeck cut-outs.
 
When all was dry the main deck was glued in place and extra glue and balsa added as before.
 

images
 
The "kick-up" part on the bottom is not yet fitted - just put in place to get an idea of the angle for chamfering.
 
So far, so good.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
 
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TailUK

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #1 on: February 12, 2013, 09:27:14 AM »

Wasn't this plan used in conjuction with a TV program about model building.  Something like "Bob Symes Model World"?
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #2 on: February 12, 2013, 02:30:58 PM »

Yep, you're spot on there. Appears this programme went out on BBC2 in 1975 !  :-))
 
It was also mentioned on this forum - http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=bbc2+model+world+bob+symes+sea+rider&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CDoQrAIoATAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.modelboatmayhem.co.uk%2Fforum%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D16333.0&ei=mVAaUcP5Eqmw0QXgtIH4DA&usg=AFQjCNHTjpl2buSXMwY8hZIwX36JqJC6ZA
 
Didn't realise that but I'll carry on with it anyway.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #3 on: February 12, 2013, 03:40:13 PM »

Glued 1/4" square balsa strips under the deck, around the deck openings, this gives a deeper landing area for the coamings to be glued on later.
 

upload foto
 
Glued 1/8" strip balsa to for'd face of BH1 and the cut-out in the stem piece to accommodate the for'd deck break.
A dry run showed the deck break to be too short ! - my own fault, due to over eager sanding. No problem though, just had to make a new one.
(Incidentally, the original plan was designed for the model to be made of balsa - I decided to go with plywood, just because I had this in stock)
 
So, the replacement deck break was glued into position and then more glue run along the joint then sprinkled with fine sawdust. When this was dry the excess was brushed off and the joint sanded smooth.
The foredeck was then glued in place and the resultant joint between it and the deck break was treated the same way as above. Again, the underside of the pieces were strengthened with more balsa strip.
 
The remaining piece of the hull bottom, along with the transom piece were chamfered and glued into position. When all was dry the sharp edges were sanded to final shape.
 

upload pic
 
That's the hull "skeleton" completed - this will now be left alone for the wood glue to harden off.
 
The next job will be to fit the proptube and rudder.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Davenotdone

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #4 on: February 12, 2013, 04:12:15 PM »

Looking good Ray, :-))  i to am a beginner at model boating and i am just cutting my teeth on a Dickie conversion and a Fleabay RTR Police type boat. When they are finished i will post a few pics but even with these cheap models i am learning about radios, materials, glues, Led's motors, props ,chargers, batteries etc. I am glad i cut my teeth on something simple first before diving in head first but i do remember this model on TV  ( getting on a bit now ) and would not mind having at this myself. Any idea where i could get a set of plans from and how did you scale them up? Good luck with your build, i will follow it with great interest, regards, Dave.
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #5 on: February 12, 2013, 04:27:53 PM »

Thank you for your kind comments Dave.
 
I also have a Dickie tug awaiting my attention - it's all in bits at the mo and will have to be attended to "in the future".
 
The scaling up of the plans was a bit hit & miss to be honest - I had access to a xerox photocopier at the time and just increased the percentage to 148%, then it was just a matter of joining up the A3 sheets.
If you PM me your details I can post you the original plan.
 
...and have fun with your boats !
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #6 on: February 14, 2013, 01:55:47 AM »

An undersize pilot hole was drilled in the hull bottom and BH3 then filed in an elongated manner to accommodate the proptube. Balsa wedges were used to ensure the correct angle was maintained whilst filing. Kept on offering up the proptube until a snug fit was achieved and then the tube was taped in place (with the wedges maintaining the angle) and then, before the 2-part epoxy resin was applied, the propshaft and propeller were temporarily installed to ensure the prop wouldn't foul the hull. (on a previous model I had to trim the blades down 'coz I had set the proptube angle too shallow. It was easier to do that than trying to remove the epoxy resin and start again)
When happy with the set up the epoxy was applied then smoothed off and left to dry.
 
The rudder was tackled next. I've used a commercial rudder on this model and found I couldn't get the brass nut to tighten up sufficiently, this was because the thread on the plastic rudder tube doesn't go all the down - there's about 6mm of unthreaded plastic where it sits on the bottom inside the hull.
My solution for this: Take the rubber end from the plunger of a 2ml syringe, cut off the enclosed end of the rubber - now we have a neoprene ? tube which is a very tight fit over the rudder tube (used vaseline to tease it onto the tube) and it squashes down nicely and forms a good seal when the brass washer & nut are tightened down.
 
Then, an angled platform was made for the motor mount to screw onto. I used balsa for this as it's easy to sand down.
 
Motor and mount were then installed and a quick test ensured that all was aligned correctly.
 

upload foto
 

picture sharing
 
Hoping to start on the side skins soon...
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Davenotdone

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #7 on: February 14, 2013, 06:55:13 AM »

Looking nice Ray, :-))  is the rudder tube tall enough? ie the tube has to be higher than the waterline or it could let water in through the top, leak, the  taller the better i was once told to keep the water out. Just an observation, not a criticism of your fine work, regards, Dave.
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #8 on: February 14, 2013, 02:20:05 PM »

Hi Dave, ref the rudder tube height - yep, that's a very good point you've made there - on this particular model, the waterline shown on the plan would indicate that the top of the tube will be well above the waterline. Once the hull gets painted I'll carry out basin (bath) trials just to confirm.  :-))
 
 
Well, off to the post office now.
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2013, 01:10:52 AM »

Something I forgot to mention earlier - the Leander class vessels were twin screw / twin rudder but, as can be seen, this model will be run on just the single set up - as per the original model plan. Also, because this model is to be kind of "representative" of the class, as opposed to "exact replica", the bilge keels and stabilisers will also be omitted - again, as per the plan.
 
The motor I've installed is a 540 which will probably give the model too much power - this will be replaced by a 380 if required.
 
But I'm jumping the gun a bit there, back to the build:-
 
Decided to go with 1.5mm ply with 1 complete skin per side and to glue in place in stages. I've also painted inside the bow area at this stage as there'll be no access once the skin is in place.
Anyway, the Port side skin  was cut roughly to size, with overlap top and bottom for final sanding later.
Before fitting, the skin was given two coats of sanding sealer rubbed down between coats.
Gluing of the skin was done in stages, starting at the bow as that was the most awkward bit to hold in place while the epoxy resin was setting. I've used the 5 minute stuff here as I had that to hand.
 
 
free image hosting

When the glue had finally set the skin was sanded down to the correct level. Wood glue was then ran into all the inside joints, using capillary action, hopefully giving a solid joint.
 

pic hosting
 
The next stage will be to paint the inside of the hull, before the Stbd skin goes on, should be easier that way (I hope)...
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
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Davenotdone

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2013, 07:01:09 AM »

Hi Ray, good idea to have full skins on both sides, i am sure it will be a lot stronger than lots of small pieces. Are you using Marine ply or  normal ply? Anyway it's looking good from here and thanks for the plan, it came yesterday :-)) Regards, Dave.
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2013, 01:01:08 AM »

Are you using Marine ply or  normal ply?

Not sure what it is Dave, can't even remember where I got it from  {:-{
 
Nice to hear we can still rely on the old post office service anyway.
 
While waiting for the glue(s) to go off, the rudder servo mount was made up ready - made this one from plasticard in a sort of oblong configuration.
Also took this opportunity to make up the hatchcoamings on maindeck & after deck.
 

upload photos
 
On impulse I decided to temporarily install all the running gear - again, this was a lot easier to do while the hull is still "open" on one side. Extended rudder servo cable, on/off switch installed, battery box made up and glued in position, velcro stuck in place for Rx and Esc.
So chuffed that everything works ok, but forgot to photograph it all in place.  :embarrassed:
 
I'll do that the next time everything goes in...
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #12 on: February 20, 2013, 12:41:38 AM »

Applied 2 coats of primer / undercoat to the inside of the hull - didn't bother with rubbing down, just topcoated using JAPLAC paint (B&Q).
 
When all was dry the Stbd skin was tackled. I was going to paint the inside face of the skin first but thought this would be detrimental to the gluing surface, as opposed to the bare wood.
As with the Port skin the Stbd was glued in position in stages, again starting at the bow with 5 min epoxy - the remainder was glued using 20 min stuff, 6 - 8" at a time, to ensure good adhesion all along the joints.
When this was dry, wood glue was ran along the inside joints, again using capillary action to reach all along the hull.
The skin was then sanded back to deck level, likewise the bottom.
Note: The block underneath the hull is to keep the proptube up off the workbench - still haven't made the stand yet !
 

online photo storage
 
The bow area was tackled next - couple of offcuts used to fill the area then applied P38 and rubbed down - this was followed by painting the inside of the Stbd skin - quite awkward to do now that the only access is through the deck cutouts.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
 

picture hosting
 
Now the hull was given a good rub down and a coat of primer applied - this revealed 2 small indentations on the main deck, which were filled and sanded smooth - 2nd coat primer applied then rubbed down with wet n' dry, used wet.
So, that's the basic hull completed - now waiting for suitable weather for spraying as this has to be done outdoors.
 

images
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #13 on: February 28, 2013, 08:41:21 PM »

I normally hand paint my models but decided to try using car spray paints for this one.
 
Found a part-used aerosol can of grey undercoat (used on a bicycle frame - years ago) to get started with.
 
Sprayed the bottom of the hull & stbd side then ran out of paint !  >>:-( - ok, lesson learned. Then it was off to halfords to stock up.
 
Sprayed 2 coats of grey primer, rubbing down with wet 'n dry between coats, then set aside to dry for 24hrs.
 

primer applied
 

The surfaces were then cleaned up ready for the topcoat(s). Used "Ford Polar Grey" as this seemed nearest to the desired shade. 1st coat applied - not a bad job for a first attempt.
2nd coat - got too close with the tin when spraying the bow & stern which resulted in runs of paint on those two areas - this meant another 24hr wait until it could be rubbed down ready for another attempt. >:-o
 
Finally got it rubbed down and 2nd coat applied today  :-)
 

topcoat on

 
This will now be left alone for a full 24hrs for the paint to dry.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #14 on: February 28, 2013, 10:03:41 PM »

That is looking good Ray
Can't wait to see the rest come together.

Dave
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2013, 01:18:25 AM »

Thoughts now turned to tackling superstructure and other fittings.
Decided at this point to abandon the plans - the superstructure just doesn't look right when compared with photographs of various vessels of the class.
So, the remainder of the build will be trial & error (along with modellers' licence of coarse)...
 
Cut strips of 3.5mm ply for superstructure base to fit snugly over the main hatch coaming. Cling-film was placed over the coamings to avoid getting glue on the deck. The hull will be given a protective coat of varnish when all paintwork has been completed and hardened off.
 

ensure good fit
 
The cling-film can just be seen below the "quick clamp"
 
When the coaming was completed the hull waterline was marked off then masked using 10mm Tamiya masking tape followed by paper tape and newspaper.
 

Masked_for_spraying_1.jpg
 
Got lucky with the weather again today, so it was back outside and the lower hull was given 2 coats of matt black.
 

Bottom_done.jpg
 
When the paint was almost dry, the masking was removed - no overspray or seepage discovered - good stuff that Tamiya tape, definitely my tape of choice.

Tape_removed.jpg
 
The hull will now be left alone to dry completely.
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #16 on: March 05, 2013, 12:43:36 AM »

Used 6mm x 3mm plastic strips athwartships to add strength and rigidity to the base of the superstructure.

bracing.jpg

Applied the ships name on Stbd quarter using 3mm BECC lettering in red.

name applied

The epoxy resin used for the athwartships bars was completely hardened off by the time I'd finished putting those little letters in place %%
 
Next job was to cut more plasticard for 01 deck. This was cut oversize then trimmed after gluing in place. I'm using plasticard wherever possible on the superstructure to try and keep the top weight as light as possible.

01 deck.jpg
 
Added the ships name to the Port quarter - found the job a bit easier this time due to lessons learned from the previous effort.
Applied white primer to the wooden portion of the outer coaming to help protect from moisture when sailing.
Used more plastic strip to further strengthen 01 deck - this also gives a bit extra plastic to "weld" to in the initial stages of adding the bulkheads.
The Port bulkhead was tackled first with the curve being achieved using SWMBO's hairdryer while the plasticard was clamped in place.
This was left to cool for 45 mins then checked for fit - looked ok so the bulkhead was glued in position using the 5-min epoxy.

going up.jpg
 
Quite happy with that so the Stbd main bulkhead was done in the same manner.
The centre for'd bulkhead was cut and attached then sharp edges trimmed and rounded off.

going up 2.jpg
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #17 on: March 05, 2013, 01:23:23 AM »

Further plastic strips were added inside the bulkheads to give a bigger landing area for the bridge deck to be glued in position, trimmed and smoothed off.
 
going up 3.jpg
 
The base for the bridge area was then worked out, cut and used as a template for the bridge roof.

bridge 1.jpg
 
Sorry for the quality of some of the photo's.
 
The bridges on these vessels were a sort of hexagonal shape so each individual section has been cut to suit and marked up ready for construction

bridge 2.jpg
 
Realised just in time - all the bridge windows are angled out over, therefore the inner supports (6mm x 3mm strip) had to be chamfered to accommodate this.
Also, the bridge roof had to be larger than the base due to the increased area created by the "angled out" windows.
So, the bridge construction started with the 3 front sections - no problem there - it was the next sections which revealed my error - I had cut out all 13 sections (windows) to meet in the upright position ! but of course this would have left a "vee" gap where the sections were to come together. >:-o
 
So now each of the sections had to be remade to fit. Ho-hum, another lesson learned O0
 
All the new parts were then glued in place and the structure was then inverted to draw around on a fresh sheet of plastic to ensure the bridge roof was a good fit.
Now came the awkward part - cutting out the windows - this was done by drilling a series of holes around each window (the window frames were marked out using a drawn out template) the holes were then cut through with the stanley knife, centre waste knocked out and windows filed to final shape.
Glazing will be done after superstructure has been sprayed - long way off yet though - this photo shows the basic bridge in position and awaiting the weatherstrip. This I have yet to work out....

bridge 3.jpg
 
Just realised something else - I don't have any suitable paint for the main deck - so it's off to Halfords again later.
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Capt Podge

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #18 on: March 13, 2013, 12:00:54 AM »

Managed to get a little bit more done over the past week... and learned a few more lessons along the way !  O0
 
 
The hull was masked off and the main deck was given 2 coats of Halford's "Ford Meadow Green" then left to harden off for 24hrs and looks pretty close to the deck colour as I remember it.
Now, in my enthusiasm when masking up, I failed to notice the bare masking tape was covering the name plate letters on the stbd side - when the tape was removed the first 2 letters came off with it - Aaaaaargh ! >:-o >:-o  it took me ages to put them bl**dy things on straight in the first place. >>:-(
 
So it was back to affixing the replacements on - won't make that mistake again  %)
 
Now it was time to tackle the overhanging "weatherstrip" from the bridge roof. I was just in the process of gluing down the roof when I realised - it has to remain unglued until the window glazing goes on :embarrassed:
A quick pull got the roof off before the glue had time to set -phew !
 
I've used 0.5mm plasticard for the weatherstrip and used SWMBO's hairdrier again to achieve the desired curves.
 

Bridge roof.jpg
 
Next came the portholes along the main superstructure sides - marked off the locations and drilled pilot holes then opened them up with 3mm drill bit, finished off with filing the holes smooth and clearing out the swarf.
 
For the watertight doors I made up a plastic template and used this to cut & file to shape the 8 that I needed for this part of the build - these were glued in place with superglue.
 
Next part to tackle was the bridge wings. Initially, I made the floor of the Stbd wing, cut to final shape and was in the process of making the weather bulkhead when I realised that, if I just glued this to the main superstructure it would be prone to breakage - abandoned that idea - went with this instead:-
used a standard hacksaw and cut right across and through the superstructure to the aftermost point of where the bridge wings need to be fitted.
 
This gave me a nice gap into which I slid a 1mm piece of plasticard, did the necessary marking off then slid the resultant cut piece into place. I had cut it slightly oversize and then filed down to final shape and "welded" into place.
This gives a stronger, stable superstructure to work with.
 
The bridge wing doors were next and these were made (using the same template as used to make the w/t doors) glued in place and holes drilled to take the portholes.
Note: These 2 doors also needed the "dogging" handles fitted before the wing bulkheads go in place due to inaccessibility once the wings are completed.
 
Snapped the only 0.5mm drill bit I had left - was going to drill the holes for the "dog handles" - and of course the shops are all shut now -  >>:-(
 
Still, there's always something to be getting on with - in this instance it's the signal deck bulkheads. These were glued/welded in place using small set squares to keep them vertical.
 
Next came the for'd mast.
This was made up using 1mm plasticard skins with 3mm x 6mm plastic strip for support/strength and brought together in right angled halves. When I measured up to make the mast I added on an extra 35mm so that it could be slotted through the signal deck and seated on 01 deck.
However, because the base of the mast is broader and tapers up, when it came to cutting the aperture, it had to be to accommodate the broadest part so when the mast was slotted home I was left with a few mils gap. This was filled with strip all round.
What I should have done was either make the extra length square instead of tapered or, with a bit of forward planning, I could have left the bridge/signal deck unglued, cut the mast aperture and then slotted the mast home from underneath.
That's yet another note to go into my "how to / how not to" notebook <*<
 

Mast from for'd.jpg
 

Mast from aft.jpg
 
Away to the shops again tomorrow for mini drillbits stock-up...
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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MarkScratchBuilt

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #19 on: March 13, 2013, 01:47:40 AM »

looks great! better than my first scratch build attempt!  ok2
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #20 on: March 13, 2013, 07:04:22 AM »

I must agree, for a first scratch build i think it looks superb :-))  It has that ' if it looks right then it is right'  feel about it. I allways look forward to the next instalment of this build and so do my two young son's. Every credit Ray,  regards, Dave.
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #21 on: March 13, 2013, 06:43:06 PM »

Mark and Dave  -  thank you very much for your kind comments - I'll try and get a little bit more done this evening. :-))
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #22 on: March 13, 2013, 11:58:01 PM »

The funnel was tackled next.
My first idea was to carve the whole thing from a block of wood but I soon gave up on that - my woodworking skills are not really up to it and, besides, I'm trying to keep the top weight to a minimum.
 
Attempt no.2 - The side view of the funnel was drawn freehand on paper, taped to a small trysquare and sat in position for effect.
 

Funnel template
 
I was happy with the result so the paper template was transferred onto 1mm plasticard.
A strip of 0.5mm card was then wrapped around the bottom of the plasticard template to give the curvature, or footprint, required for the funnel.
 
This was then inserted into the cardboard tube of a spent kitchen roll and the tube manipulated to the required shape and held with paper masking tape.
 
The next task was to cut a piece of 0.5mm sheet plastic to wrap around the "skeleton" funnel. I found this a little tricky because the slope of the funnel meant I had to cut off each end of the sheet at an angle so that they would come together on the slope - I can't explain that any other way - geometry wasn't one of my strong subjects at school !
 
Anyway, the sheet was cut, wrapped around the "skeleton" (or should it be called a "former"), taped into place and then "welded" with Plasweld. Once the weld had dried the "skeleton" was removed and after a little bit of filing was done I had my funnel.
 
The funnel was then upended onto 1mm plasticard and a blank made as a seat for the funnel cowling. I toyed with various bits and pieces to make the cowling and finally settled on using polystyrene, the stuff they use for packaging.
 
I've got one of those "hot-wire" cutters but, as usual, I've put the wire away somewhere for safety but can't find it now !
So, the foam was cut using a razor-saw and lightly sanded to shape.
This was then coated with thick, sandable pva and left to dry. The result wasn't satisfactory so I re-covered it with P38 to achieve a better surface.
 
While that was hardening off I cut a 1.5mm wide strip of 0.5mm plasticard to wrap around the funnel to act as the funnel cowling support ring.
 
So that's the basic funnel done.
 
This photo shows the stages of construction of the funnel body
 

Funnel parts
 
 
The bulkhead between 01 and signal deck - athwartships - was cut & glued in place and another 2 w/t doors added, 1 each to Port & Stbd, which open onto the boatdeck.
 

Funnel in position
 
Looking at this photo I've just realised another "schoolboy error" - I've glued the for'd mast in place, thereby giving myself another problem - the yardarms, radar platforms etc,. will all have to be made "in situ" and that, I have no doubt, is going to be awkward to say the least !  >>:-(

Incidentally, the blocks of wood were used to get some idea of size/placement of the main gun.
 
 
Time for a brew methinks... <*<

 
 
Isn't scratch building fun ?
 
 
Regards,
 
Ray.
 
 
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pugwash

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #23 on: March 14, 2013, 02:40:24 AM »

Hi Ray you seem to be having fun - will you be ready to launch it come the warmer weather
Geoff
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Davenotdone

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Re: 1st Scratchbuild - HMS Ariadne
« Reply #24 on: March 14, 2013, 10:06:42 AM »

Hi Ray, looking very nice. Did you cut out the rear deck as per the original for looks /  a bit more access for the rudder or both?  If you need a helicopter then please look at my posts, i did enquire. I have just had the plans you sent me blown up to 150% and will pass the original you sent to me to a fellow member who asked for them. I won't be starting mine just yet ( other boats to finish first ) but hopefully not too long. Those Halfords ' rattle cans ' seem to give a good finish on your boat, most impressed. Regards, Dave.
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