continuing...
11 Jan 14
Carried out running repairs on one of my other models, so nothing done on this one today.
12 Jan 14
Another blank day - too busy with other "stuff".
13 Jan 14
...and again.
14 Jan 14
Family visiting = no time for the workshop
15 Jan 14
Back at last...P38 applied to rudder blade. While that was hardening off, made card templates for the boat stand cradles.
These were then transferred onto 9mm thick plywood. The rudder blade was rubbed down to final shape.
The 2 cradles were rough cut with the coping saw then trimmed to the lines. The horizontal stretchers were then cut to length and the positions marked off for drilling through the 2 cradles.
16 Jan 14
The cradles were clamped together, ensuring the bottoms and outer edges were horizontal and vertical respectively.
They were then marked for drilling and secured in the vice. Again ensuring horizontal alignment the holes were drilled out.
Next, the cradles were sanded down then given a coat of sanding sealer.
While that was drying the stretchers were sanded smooth.
Then the cradles were sanded smooth and the whole thing brought together and glued with PVA.
17 Jan 14
A final rubdown and the stand is ready for painting.
18 Jan 14
The deck is causing a bit of a headache, mainly how to get a good fit. I had deliberately cut it oversize and now needed to trim it back.
First attempt: Place deck upside down on the bench and draw a line around the upturned hull.
Ended up with awful wavy lines - I hadn't taken into account the sides of the hull flexing !
Attempt no.2: Taped the deck in place, then drew around it - same result plus, with the deck in place I couldn't tell exactly where the 2 frames were, which meant I would have a hard time establishing the cutout area.
19 Jan 14
Had one of those "bright" ideas that come without too much thought.
Placed a round fluorescent light underneath the hull - now I could see the 2 frames clearly so they were marked off, the lines joined up fore and aft and there was my cutout for the main deck access.
Decided at this point to start filing down the overhanging edges of the deck while it was all nicely taped up.
Just got started then realised the hull was still flexing. Walk away time...
20 Jan 14
Had another thinking session while out with the dog:-
1. Mark the hull and deck in a couple of places so providing reference points.
2. Remove the deck altogether.
3. Remove the marked out area of the deck access. (this would have been almost impossible in-situ anyway)
4. Glue runners to edges inside the hull - this gives rigidity and also creates a larger surface area for gluing the deck in place.
5. Glue the deck in place, lining up the reference points.
6. Allow to fully harden off.
7. Trim off the excess - should work...
21 - 25 Jan 14
Layed up with a bout of seasonal 'flu
26 Jan 14
Not 100% clear yet but sick of moping about the house so, heater on in the workshop and see how we get on.
OK then, so the deck was carefully positioned, taped in place and reference marks made to aid alignment.
Deck removed and the access area was cut out with the stanley knife.
Some lengths of 7mm x 7mm obechi were cut to size, for the straight runs on both sides of the hull. These were epoxied in place, clamped up, then left to harden off.
side_stiffeners.jpg
To complete the deck landing area some ramin strip 6mm x 3mm was cut to size for the transom and bow areas then placed in hot water for about 20 mins. The wood was flexible enough without the treatment but had a tendency to "spring".
The 2 strips for the bow area were chamfered where they met at the bow.
Both strips were then clamped in place, hopefully to retain their curviture when they dry out.
The strip across the transom required notches cut in order to get the correct camber.
This was also clamped in place temporarily.
plenty_clamps.jpg
The prop and rudder shafts were removed for now and the tube ends were masked off to deter ingress of dirt.
27 Jan 14
Now that the strips were dried out they were removed and they did retain the curviture - excellent !
These were epoxied in place, clamped and left to harden off.
Meanwhile, a bracket was made for the rudder servo, with a plywood base and balsa retaining structure.
28 Jan 14
Clamps removed. Deck once again taped in place then tapes pulled half-way off, retained in place on the deck itself ready for taping down tight once the epoxy resin is applied.
Used 20 min epoxy (Wilkinsons) spread all round outer edges and across the 2 frames.
Deck layed on, lined up to the markings and taped down tight. Batteries and other weights used to augment the tapes.
deck_weighted.jpg
While this was hardening off, soldered capacitors and leads on the motor - it's a 540 motor running on 6v battery, size yet to be decided, subject to required ballasting.
29 Jan 14
All tapes removed, deck now stuck firmly in place - or is it ?
Started filing down outer edges of deck to bring it flush with the hull - POP - off came the deck !
One mug of tea later, after a bit of thought, found the possible cause - the underside of the deck is the shiny side of the plasticard and I know I'd forgotten to key the surface therefore the epoxy had nothing to get a grip of...(it's elementary, my dear Captain).
Right-o then, cleaned it all up, hull and deck, keyed both surfaces and off we go again.
Glue applied, deck taped down again, lots of weights on top.
(Knew I should have built this model in wood)
30 Jan 14
Once again, all tapes removed, appears to have worked this time.
deck_on.jpg
Leaving the filing down for another 24hrs. Hopefully the glue won't come away this time.
Allowing the extra curing period 'cause it's still a bit on the cold side.
Meanwhile there's the coaming to consider.
Regards,
Ray.
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Topic: Diary of an "Easy Build" Pilot boat (Read 12128 times)