Topic: STUART TURNER "SCORE" TWIN CYLINDER DOUBLE ACTING STEAM ENGINE. (Read 22684 times)

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #25 on:** April 29, 2015, 10:24:24 pm »

I have to admit that quite often I do wonder if going down the "I.T" career path was such a good one. Over the years I have lost many of the manual "Craft" skills I learned at school (Cutting and filing straight being 2 important ones)
Now as I'm getting on a bit I'm slowly amassing a simple workshop so I can do these sorts of things.
Hopefully one day I can create things like this with my own hands..... one day

vnkiwi · « **Reply #26 on:** April 30, 2015, 03:21:29 am »

Just a ramble by an oldie, My Dad trained as a Marine engineer in the RNZAF during WW2, and can remember way back when I was a preteen, he was teaching me to file in our workshop/garage. Complained once to often about being to hard, my muscles ache, etc. So Dad, not saying anything went to one of the drawers, pulled out a steel cube, one inch on a side. Said, right, your not to touch any other tool in this shop, or say anything, until you can show me a replica of this, and laid the cube, and the micrometer on the end of the bench, along with a hacksaw, piece of mild steel and a file.
Well about three months later, finally got close enough for Dad to accept that I'd tried, and now appreciated that nothing comes without a lot of hard work.
That steel cube, was Dad's from his training days, and wish I still had it.
Still can't get one as accurate as his was.
cheers

frazer heslop · « **Reply #27 on:** April 30, 2015, 08:48:26 am »

Nice work George

I remember the cuff round the lugs well and still use many of the profanities my gaffer used.
The one inch cube used to be punishment duties when youd made a boo boo in my first employers shop or you were given some sheet brass and had to hand cut Cathedral clock frames out and god help you if you cocked that one up as they were his Christmas fund.
A little aid for cutting straight I was taught is simply to scribe two lines close together and it does help me to keep a cut straight or simply use the vice jaws to keep you straight. Another little tip that I was taught to get rid of machining marks/dings is dont make them in the first place usually followed by the clip round the lug you soon learned and kids today think they have it tough.
Cheers!

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #28 on:** April 30, 2015, 11:33:35 pm »

ENGINE COMPLETED AND RUNNING.

Well here I am at last, the engine had the steam line fitted, lashings of oil all around and the air link connected and although it turned over very smoothly it was a little tight.
I had to set the compressor at 4 bar to get the engine to run, switched on and away it went.
I was not too pleased at having to set the pressure at 4 - bar so after about 10 mins run I stripped out the piston to discover that the groove for the "O" rings were not deep enough and once rectified the engine ran very well, the pistons are easily removed using the special tool with the prongs to fit the holes in the piston crowns, if this tool had not been made it's a long job stripping the cylinders from the frame to get the pistons out.

Unfortunately my camera has a fixed speed shutter and the pics posted show the engine stationary but in fact it's doing abot 900 r.p.m. I must try the kids next door to see if they with their phones can take a moving pic of the engine.

At present it has been stripped down and the castings have had their first undercoat and once gloss painted I will post the final pics.

George.

southsteyne2 · « **Reply #29 on:** April 30, 2015, 11:54:05 pm »

Beautiful engine George well done ,only one comment if I may is when you machined the piston on the three jaw chuck, as my experience is they are seldom accurate enough especially for this critical part of the engine,my preference would be to mount the connecting rod and piston in a suitable collett but then again your three jaw may be spot on ,please don't take this as a criticism just that I have been following your progress with great interest and the quality of your work had me believing you have been doing this for yonks
Cheers
John

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 01, 2015, 08:56:39 pm »

Hi John,
Thanks for your comments.
In the past when I still had the Chinese 3- jaw I did use many self made collets to hold things like piston rods e.c.t.
About 3- years ago I purchased a new Pratt-Burnerd 3- jaw chuck to replace the Chinese one.
I used the existing screwed back plate and made the O/D of the B/plate .010" under the regester size in the back of the new chuck, the fixing bolts are from the front so I finger tightened the socket head bolts and put in a piece of 5/8" silver steel bar, using a dedicated Jaw to tighten up the the bar( No2 jaw )I clocked the bar and by gently tapping the chuck with a copper hammer had it running true .
After tightening up fully I rechecked the bar and it still regstered .00000" to this day as I have never had a tool dig and it's still running true, as long as when I am looking for accuracy I tighten up with the key in the dedicated No 2 jaw I don't need collets.

I now have the Chinese 3- jaw mounted on a large rotary table given to me by a friend which I now find invaluable for pitching holes on any P.C.D. that I need.

John you must remember that I am not a trained machinest , only self taught over these last 16 Years of retiral, so never be afraid to comment on any of my postings as I am never to old to learn, so don't worry about critiscism which if I ever think that it's out of order I will soon tell you, like wise if Anthing that I say out of order please pick me up on it.

I do value all of the questions asked during the build of the D10 and this Score engine, so thanks again for your input.

I have stripped the engine down and all of the castings so far have had 1- coat primer and 2- coats of enamel green paint. they may need another coat , at present they are sitting of top of the C/Heating boiler and stinking the room out, no comments "YET" from s.w.m.b.o.

George.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #31 on:** May 02, 2015, 06:23:05 pm »

FINISHED.

After it's second coat of Green enamel paint and left to harden overnight I assembled all the parts and ran it on air, it self starts on about 30 p.s.i. as it's still a little tight so over this weekend I will give it a good run in with plenty of oil.
It's been good to machine up the castings, those that were not already done when purchased, but I found that I had to push myself as I was getting bored, I think it was because it was so soon after the D10 so hopefuly as the weather gets a bit better I can get out and about over the hills and far away on the bike.
The garden needs some attention but again it's freezing cold up here, snow is falling on the ski slopes and everybody is very busy, it's to cold for me.

So thanks to all that have hung in there I do hope that you were not bored to death.

Here is a selection of the finishrd engine and thanks to my friend Hyslop who suggested that I switch off the flash on my camera I have been able to show that it actually runs.

George.

Jerry C · « **Reply #32 on:** May 02, 2015, 10:20:34 pm »

Propper job!
Jerry.

essex2visuvesi · « **Reply #33 on:** May 02, 2015, 10:53:07 pm »

Lovely.... I need to try my hand at building something like that

southsteyne2 · « **Reply #34 on:** May 03, 2015, 01:45:37 am »

Thanks George for your informative reply regarding the three jaw chuck as I am sure a lot of members will benefit after all that is really what a forum is about to exchange thoughts and practices so thanks again for your very well produced engine build series and hope to see more in the future
Regards
John

Corposant · « **Reply #35 on:** May 03, 2015, 12:58:09 pm »

George

Another shining example of your prowess! Many thanks for sharing it.

Regards

Mike

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #36 on:** May 04, 2015, 09:04:14 am »

Nice work as ever George....

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #37 on:** May 04, 2015, 03:16:52 pm »

An Excellent build thread

Well done George.

ken

pipercub1772 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 05, 2015, 02:57:15 pm »

Hi George you have really tight bends on you're pipe work what method of pipe bending do you use , spring , machine or other ,kind regards Allan

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 05, 2015, 11:38:26 pm »

Quote from: pipercub1772 on May 05, 2015, 02:57:15 pm

Hi George you have really tight bends on you're pipe work what method of pipe bending do you use , spring , machine or other ,kind regards Allan

Allan,

I have a small bending tool that I made which can be made for 5/32 - 3/16 -1/4 dia copper pipe.
The most used is the one for 5/32" copper pipe, it has 2- 1/2" dia rollers each with a groove machined with a round nosed tool, like a parting tool, and the groove is .010" wider than th3 5/32" pipe and deep enough so that the centre line of the pipe is below the rim of the rollers to prevent tube collapse when bending.
It's a very simple tool and others can be made to suit whatever pipe that you use.

For 5/32" pipe the rollers are 1/2" dia.
for 3/16" pipe the rollers are 3/4" dia
For 1/4 dia pipe the rollers are 1' dia.

Hope this helps.

George.
By experiment you may be able to make the rollers smaller, here are some pics of my tube bender with 5/32" dia tube having a 90 deg bend.

southsteyne2 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 05, 2015, 11:59:04 pm »

Hi George very useful little tool there next on my list ,does the pipe need to be annealed or as is ?
cheers
John

SailorGreg · « **Reply #41 on:** May 06, 2015, 07:24:15 am »

Hugely enjoyable (and informative) build George. Many thanks for sharing.

Greg

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 06, 2015, 10:05:37 am »

Quote from: southsteyne2 on May 05, 2015, 11:59:04 pm

Hi George very useful little tool there next on my list ,does the pipe need to be annealed or as is ?
cheers
John

John,
When the copper pipe comes in a coil it is already annealed and bends easily, if you have to re-straighten the pipe then it becomes work hardened and you have to re heat and anneal it.

George.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #43 on:** May 06, 2015, 10:08:07 am »

Quote from: SailorGreg on May 06, 2015, 07:24:15 am

Hugely enjoyable (and informative) build George. Many thanks for sharing.

Greg

Hi Greg,
I am glad that you enjoyed the build of the SCORE and the D10 , to all of the others who have made kind remarks I thank you.

I shall now have a rest and clear up some of my unfinished projects.

George.

Kerrsy · « **Reply #44 on:** June 24, 2015, 03:32:45 pm »

Hi George
Just having a rummage around the web and found your feed.
It is really good to see your work, as we have said before it's a shame you can't bottle it and pass it on.
Apart from the wonderful machining, (it always fascinates me how different people set up a job to machine)
You must be congratulated on the quality of your photos. they are so clear and focused.
I hope you are well and still have time for your beloved bike.

best wishes

Alan

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #45 on:** June 24, 2015, 11:59:12 pm »

Quote from: Kerrsy on June 24, 2015, 03:32:45 pm

Hi George
Just having a rummage around the web and found your feed.
It is really good to see your work, as we have said before it's a shame you can't bottle it and pass it on.
Apart from the wonderful machining, (it always fascinates me how different people set up a job to machine)
You must be congratulated on the quality of your photos. they are so clear and focused.
I hope you are well and still have time for your beloved bike.

best wishes

Alan

Hi Alan,
Thanks for the kind words, machining and building engines is quite a passion but I am in awe at the results you and others produce in hull building and your particular skill with sheet meta.
Yes still managing to get out on the bike although not as much as I wouldlike due to the poor weather.

Quite a few members have commented on the quality of the pics but I assure you it's not thro' my expertise as a photographer.
My camera is a small digital FUJI that has a focal length of 12" for close ups and the normal with a zoom adjustment and all that I do is point the thing and " CLICK"

As to the machining I just love "BUTCHERING " metal and when the project is finished it gives me the greatest thrill when it kicks into life at the first admission of air and then tha final test of steam.

Take care
George.

Kerrsy · « **Reply #46 on:** June 25, 2015, 09:53:35 am »

George, we have so much in common.
I love "butchering" but hate wood!
you can't weld it when you make a cock up !
cheers
Alan

Jerry C · « **Reply #47 on:** June 25, 2015, 10:33:09 am »

Hi George, just touching base after a break. Team JCB did the Etape Eryri on Sunday. 48 miles. Much improved on last year. Got loads of personal records and managed the Drws y Coed and Pen y Pass (Snowdon) climbs but had to push up Ceunant (stupid) climb. One very bad accident to one participant overcooked a bend on Drws y Coed decent and collided with a car head on. Now in Stoke trauma centre. Not looking good. The team is losing two members as my daughter and son-in-law are emigrating to Australia beginning of August. Next sportif is Tour de Môn Bach in August. Hope to blitz that one.
Keep the joints moving.
Kindest regards
Jerry.

ooyah/2 · « **Reply #48 on:** February 27, 2016, 10:12:17 pm »

Hi Guys,

Returning to this thread at the start I didn't explain how the cross head guides were bored as the set of castings that I bought already had the bores done.

I have always considered that this boring job had to be the most difficult of the whole machining process and now that I am in the possesion of another set of SCORE castings and these bores were still not machined I decided to have a go at machining them as I had never done this before.

I knew that the best way was to bore them with a boring bar between centres but as I was a bit apprehensive I had a good read at a book " Machining in the Lathe " by Sparrey.

I made a boring bar with a cutting tool ground up from a 3/16" dia small centering drill and mounted in a 7/16" round bar.

I then had to take off the top tool post and find the distance from the lathe centre and the top of the cross slide, this I did by mounting a 3/4" dia bar in the chuck and measured from the top of the bar to the cross slide and subtracted 1/2 the dia to get the centre to top which turned out to be 2.75".
I knew the dimension from the bore centres to the underside of the casting was and the dimension of the box bed that it was mounted on and the difference was .876".
I then had to make up a mount to this dimension for bolting to the cross slide.

This was made using a piece of 4mm black plate and Ali slips.

Here are a few pics of the final set up and I shall describe how I found the exact centres next post.

George.

Kerrsy · « **Reply #49 on:** February 28, 2016, 06:57:51 am »

Hi George
Nice job, the saying where there's a will there is a way springs to mind.
Is the tool in the shaft adjustable to get the correct diameter or do make the pistons to suite?
It must be a good feeling to know you have bone all the machining.
Thank you for sharing this with us
Alan

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Author Topic: STUART TURNER "SCORE" TWIN CYLINDER DOUBLE ACTING STEAM ENGINE. (Read 22684 times)