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Author Topic: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...  (Read 73774 times)

DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #300 on: January 27, 2025, 01:01:21 pm »

Afternoon All

Next exciting episode...  I've been working on the hatch inlays, started by adding a border of 2x2mm to the hatches, very slightly proud of the frame, then ran them across the disc sander to get the edges in line with the frame, so the hatches still fit basically.




I was careful to clear any excess glue from the inside edge as this would stop the inlay laying correctly.





Then started cutting the inlay strips. My method is to cut the strips a shade long, then sand to an interference fit, including a small chamfer to ease the strip in.  I use the disc sander to ensure I keep the ends at 90 degrees. The strips then hold together without glue at this stage.



Then take them out and spread some glue over the hatch so I can add the strips back in one go.



And the result with the final little mahogany strip (pic below - top left) ready to be pushed into place.



And the hatch in the boat.



I've lightly sanded the hatches but will wait for final sanding once the adjoining deck is all in place.

Next task is to add in the 'slipway'.

Very best regards to all.
David.
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DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #301 on: January 31, 2025, 05:06:26 pm »

Afternoon All


The aft hatch is pretty much done now, slipway is in place:





I used some epoxy with light glass cloth on the underside and the epoxy has seeped through the 2mm mahogany.  It wasn't thinned, so a bit surprised.  I don't think it's going to be an issue as the 'slipway' itself will be covered with cream faux leather and the sides will have some thinned epoxy to seal them anyway so I think the seeping marks will disappear.


Filled in the gap with 0.8mm mahogany...








I've created a recess between the slipway and the side panels that will take the edges of the faux leather, should give a sharper line I think.





I won't be adding the faux leather yet, but this is the look:





That's it for now.  A good weekend to all.
Best regards
David.

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SailorGreg

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #302 on: February 01, 2025, 02:03:09 pm »

Getting better and better David.  :-)) :-)) :-))

DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #303 on: February 10, 2025, 05:49:54 pm »

Thanks for that Greg, just realised I'm over 3 years into the build...  So much still to do..!

I've added a layer of glass cloth to the planing surface, starting with a thinned mix of epoxy to seal the wood:



Then laid on the 100gsm glass cloth while the first layer was just still tacky, just enough to hold the cloth in place, started at the stern and brought it forward as a roll to avoid ripples:



I was a bit unsure whether the cloth would be OK on the sharp inside radius of the chines near the bow, but with the tacky hull I was able to really get the cloth into the tight radius and it stayed there.



I added a length of glass tape to the sharp bow, it'll be hidden by the cutwater, so just for strength really.



I used disposable stippling brushes to apply and 2 inch foam roller to work the resin in and get an even resin load.

I then applied an unthinned layer of resin again with a roller to hide the weave of the cloth, then trimmed up the edges and this is current state:



That's also the template for the cutwater, so I can start sourcing the brass to create it.  I'm thinking to make it in 0.8mm brass because its easier to work and solder, then chrome it.  I'd have liked to make it out of stainless steel, but not too familiar working with stainless...

I've been using epoxy from 'Easy Composites', laminating resin matched with their 'slow' curing agent, that gives at least an hour of working time, a bit more when thinned.  I used about 15% of Isopropyl Alcohol by volume and it cured just fine.



Two items of other news...

1. What to do with the smallest servo I've ever seen...?  (It's 17.2 x 16.1 x 8.3mm..!  And weighs 11 grams...)



Well, I had to order a few more and make up a set of working speedo and tachos...

Here's the 3D printed R&D version, 20mm diameter, and 35mm deep, (which can be accommodated in the dashboard), white LEDs to be embedded, chrome bezels to be added:





2.  Had a great day out yesterday at the Midhurst Modellers Show with my 1/10th Aquarama polished up joining the impressive fleet and great people on the Portsmouth & District Model Boat Club stand..!  Maybe next year for the 1/5th...


Best regards to all.
David.
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ChrisF

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #304 on: February 10, 2025, 06:13:14 pm »

I've replaced my tablet and can now view your photos directly in your posts again.

Three years, you're joking, blimey! Fantastic workmanship as usual and love the working dials.

Chris
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Building Fairey Marine boats: Faun 16, River Cruiser 23 prototype, Huntress 23 Long Cabin with stern-drive, Fisherman 27, Huntsman 28, Huntsman 31 and Swordsman 33. All scratch built and to a scale of 1:12

DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #305 on: February 24, 2025, 01:48:47 pm »

Hi Chris, pleased you can see the pics again..!  And thanks for the comments.


A few updates, and a bit of a close call to report...


1. Water Inlet has been fitted, I cut out the mahogany layer of planking to make the brass plate flush, and lined the cut out with epoxy to seal it. I think I'll use silicone sealant when the inlet is finally fitted to get a watertight seal... I've added a 2mm ply layer on the inside and glassed it in so it should be strong enough in the event the fitting takes any knocks.








2. Props have been drilled to take 3mm grub screws with conical ends, so they lock the props to the shafts, I'll keep the locknut too to make sure the props don't go anywhere..!  I drilled the props while on the shafts so the drill cut a 'cone' into the shaft threads for the grub screw to locate in.





3.  I've fixed the prop tubes and shafts into the hull...  The motors, mounts, thrust bocks and prop tube have been taken apart and put together at optimal alignment, so they become one piece of hardware.  The black shapes are 3d printed wedges that go under the mounts to get correct shaft angle.





I then fitted the motors to their mounted positions and enlarged the cut out where the tubes exit the hull, so there was no interference from the hull on the tubes, to keep alignment.  I then fitted the P brackets into their recesses and inserted the shafts.  Happily they all lined up as expected.





I poured epoxy with a syringe to fit the P brackets, they're also held by two 4mm SS bolts each.





So at this point all was well...  And I masked the tubes passing through the hull before adding epoxy resin and glass tape to seal the tubes in:





Maybe some explanation required for the tubes as they pass through the hull.  The main prop tubes are 9mm OD, there's a 40mm end piece of 10mm OD (9mm ID, silver soldered on) that provides a housing for the bearing at the end of the tube.  Then the brass you see in the above pic is 11mm OD (10mm ID), these are cut to provide a more aesthetic pass through of the tubes, also to reinforce the area of the cut out...  So all the brass tubes are an interference fit together and either silver soldered or epoxied together.


And now onto the problem.  I turned the hull over and started to add resin / tape around the tubes and into the slots.





The shafts, P brackets and rudders are held in those ply slots / cases (stringers..?) to I wanted resin above and below the tubes to seal and hold them firm, which I did.


And I left the boat overnight.


Next morning resin was well on it's way to being solid.  I'd left the shafts in place to ensure alignment wile the epoxy took hold...  I took one of the shafts out no trouble, but the second was absolutely solid. You know that feeling when you realise you've screwed up...  Resin had dripped onto the shaft past the masking tape, then run down the shaft, into the now firmly attached P bracket.  Not good, not good at all.


I ended up standing the hull on end and soaking the P bracket in acetone to soften the resin, then had to grip the shaft with a mole wrench and gently start to get some movement of the shaft...  Plenty of acetone and coaxing of the shaft later, I have got it out.  The P bracket bearing needs replacing, the shaft needed some attention to get rid of the grip marks.  So disaster avoided, and kicking myself for not masking properly.


I now need to trim up around the pass through area on the outside of the hull and will post some pics.


I've added some threaded inserts inside the hull that allow ply covers to be attached over the prop tubes, will retain the electronics boxes, and hold down the battery covers.








That's it for now.


Very best regards to all.
David.
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DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #306 on: February 26, 2025, 05:39:19 pm »

To follow on, here's the underside of the hull with tubes, shafts, P brackets and rudders in place. Props are 2.75 inch diameter, 3 inch pitch.





I do like a shallow shaft angle, tip clearance on the blades is 5mm.





Tube passthroughs now faired in, I used Milliput so it's pretty strong.  This section of the hull is going to have some general sanding, filler / primer and several top coats of white, so not too stressed about any current sanding marks.





And from the side, all the underwater hardware including the water inlet.





And this is one of the bearings, just about visible.  They're about 25mm long made from a low friction engineering plastic designed to be used as bearing material, same as in the P brackets.





My thought now is to carry on with fitting out the cabin at the bow so I can get to installing decking.  This means installing speakers and dock lights before they get more tricky to access.  They're already made up so I'm hoping no dramas...   :-))  We have to hope don't we...


Very best regards
David.
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DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #307 on: March 05, 2025, 04:27:44 pm »

Afternoon All


Well I thought there was no reason I couldn't get on with the side decks while I get the bow closer to being able to add that deck, so that's what I've done.








And the birch ply layer in place:





Then cut some of the thin birch ply to seal the sundeck, and provide a base for the cushioning:








So pleased to see the shape of the boat coming through with the recent work...!


Also had the 3D printer busy with some better fitting Speaker tubes:





And in place:





That's it for now.
Very best regards to all.
David.
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DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #308 on: March 10, 2025, 01:00:21 pm »

Afternoon All


Progress made on the deck, now have the second layer of 0.8mm mahogany cut and ready to apply:





All of the decking so far has been made up in same way, 1mm birch ply then two layers of 0.8mm mahogany sheet.








And just wanted to say that the Proxxon 90 degree drill has been so useful, gets me out of trouble when I've forgotten to drill a hole and now have limited access...  Like here:








I'll post a quick update when the deck is complete.


Very best regards to all.
David.
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DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #309 on: March 17, 2025, 01:27:33 pm »

An update as the deck is pretty much in place:





I gave some thought to getting the deck curves correct around the sunbed and cockpit bench seat.  I ended up 3D printing an 80mm (to match the required radius) sanding drum / cylinder that attaches to my Proxxon polisher, The deck mahogany was then fitted oversized and sanded back to where it should be, and the drum approach has done a nice job:





I used the polishing machine as it runs a lot slower than the 90 degree drill, I tried that first and it was a bit frantic...

And while that deck was clamped up and drying...  I've been giving thought for a while about transporting the boat, it's getting some weight to it now and while it does just fit in the car, I need a plan for getting it from car to lake.  I decided to see if I could build a trailer out of some spare Aluminium extrusion (40mm or 4040), and while it's a work in progress, here's result so far:



I had a couple of spare trolly wheels / hubs.  I've used some spare thick walled 10mm Stainless tube with 3D printed sleeves to connect the wheel hubs to the extrusion.  Then printed some fittings that locate and hold the sled / stand on the trailer frame.  So the idea is that the boat on its stand can be placed on the trailer as is, or the boat can be lifted off the tailer and stand.  I'm thinking to use some straps / Velcro  / or bungies to keep everything in place.



I've realised I need a slightly longer handle to avoid me being bent double...  So need to get the mitre saw out again.  I tried 3D printing some 45 / 135 degree brackets, but I'm not sure they're going to be strong enough, so I've ordered a set of stronger aluminium brackets designed for 4040 extrusion from Amazon.  The shole handle will need to be removable I think for transportation.  It should come down to backing off two Allen bolts to allow removal.  Then the trailer will be no longer than the boat.  Each wheel is held by one Allen bolt, so if needed they could come off too.







A useful aspect of the extrusion is that once the boat is complete I can move where the axle is in order to get the balance of the boat correct, so a bit of weight on the 'nose' of the trailer, but keep most over the wheels.

Now I'd like to finish the trailer in its basic form and move on to fitting out the bow cabin.  But we shall see..!

Very best regards to all.
David.
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stuart22

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #310 on: March 17, 2025, 08:26:33 pm »

Hi David, And I thought my Clyde was big, stunning work as usual.  :-)) hopefully we will be able to get too the lake soon. how do you plan to get the boat into the water?
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DJW

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Re: 1/5 Riva Aquarama...
« Reply #311 on: March 18, 2025, 12:19:21 pm »

Haha..!  Hi Stuart.  Well I reckon I might need a hand getting the boat into and out of the water...  Or a crane.   :-))


Best regards
David.
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