Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: poulw on November 07, 2008, 10:43:49 am
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Since I already see a couple of threads covering the Richelieu (scales 1/96 and 1/100), I'll give my two pennies worth as well (in yet another scale).
That is, if I can figure out how to post the pics {:-{
The hull is plank on frame with only one layer of planking - I didn't know better at the time - with bow and stern in hardwood.
(http://www.poulw.bigblog.com.au/data/4/23831/image/1Jun20073559220070627163739.JPG)
(http://www.poulw.bigblog.com.au/data/4/23831/image/21Oct200714698220071021130016.JPG)
(http://www.poulw.bigblog.com.au/data/4/23831/image/26308Bow5591520080326184418.jpg)
The three decks are all planked and waiting to be mounted when the hull is painted.
(http://www.poulw.bigblog.com.au/data/4/23831/image/7408Frontdeck4922020080407152156.jpg)
(http://www.poulw.bigblog.com.au/data/4/23831/image/7408Reardeck4922220080407152156.jpg)
Chers .... Poul
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Looks like I managed to post the pictures, so here are shots of some of the armament. :}
In some of the pics especially the gun barrels look a bit "woollen" but that is due to the resolution of my camera.
First the main guns:
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/11Jul2008MainGunI.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/12Jul2008MainGunIfrontal.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/15Aug2008Breakwaters.jpg)
A prototype of the secondary 152mm guns (some modifications has been made later to avoid the 0.5mm sheets to show):
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/14Sep08-152mmsecondary.jpg)
And finally two prototypes of the 20mm Oerlikon AA:
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/1Aug200820mmOerlikon.jpg)
I am still trying to figure out a good way to construct the quad 40mm Bofors AA
Cheers .... Poul
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This post shows some shots of the superstructure.
First the base for turret I
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/5-6-08TurretII.jpg)
Top of the front superstructure
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/5-6-08Superstructure2.jpg)
The boat deck with the current state of the superstructure (dryfittet only)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/5-6-08Superstructure1.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/1Aug2008Superstructure1.jpg)
I am keeping logbook on all parts and subparts, and the current status is:
533 Parts made from
3787 Subparts
Still a long way to go.
Cheers .... Poul
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Hi Poul,
That is an impresive looking model, you are making an very good job of her and i look forward to seeing your progress.
Ian
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Excellent job, Poul! :-)) How long have you been working on Richelieu?
Side note to Martin: you need a add kowtow smilie to the message posts? Poul's excellent ability to work in this scale is certainly worthy of one. :-)
Chuck
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Wow. Excellent job. Will keep close eye on this build to help me with my 1/96 version. Great too see her being built in many scales.
So far makes mine look like by a novis, your scratch modelling skills are way better than mine.
Keep up the good work and keep posting the great pic's.
Cheers, Adrian.
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Thanks for the nice comments.
I started the build March 2006, so I have been working on it for about 18 months. Still a long way to go
To Kiwi96:
I have tried to send you a PM without luck (I think). Please send me an email to [email protected] So I can email you some stuff.
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In case anybody should be interested, here is an example of how I built the superstructure (in this case the funnel):
First I made the skeleton - the support structure - in two parts as the bottom part flares out towards the bottom
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-2.jpg)
Then I wrapped plastic cladding around the structure (using contact glue)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-3.jpg)
Trimmed the edges
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-4.jpg)
Left some excess clading on the top part since so many curves met there
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-5.jpg)
Fixed the two parts together with sticky tape, turned the part upside down, and filled the cavity with urethane resin
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-6-1.jpg)
I could then file/curve the top part to fit the bottom part exactly
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-7-1.jpg)
and the final result looked like this
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Reartower-9-1.jpg)
The reason for the four square openings in the funnel is that the four exhaust pipes (one from each boiler) end up there.
The cover plate on the funnel therefore has four circular holes (not shown here though).
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hi
watching this build with keen interest .
what thickness is the plastic cladding.
did you lay the deck staight on the hul or on a template first
gary
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Hi Gary r uk,
The cladding is 0.38mm Isogenopak (manufactured in UK). It is very strong, and it has a natural tendency to curve.
I used templates for the decks (1.5mm ply).
To get a perfect fit, I first teemporarily fitted the deck template and then glued on the margin planks, sqeezing them hard towards the waterways to follow the ship's contour. I used Glad Wrap as a membrane to avoid the margin planks being glued onto the sides - as I have a natural tendency to over-glue.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/15-3-08Reardeckmarginplanks.jpg)
The deck template was then removed, and the marginplanks now made a good frame for the deck planks.
So, fitting the deck planks was done wiith the template on the work bench - not on the model (makes deck planking a lot easier ok2).
The decks now have one coat of varnish and are just waiting to be fitted later when the hull has been painted.
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hi
thanks for thegood replye by glad rap you mean cling film
isogenopak where from,the locl model shop,and how big o they make
gary
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Hi Gary,
Glad wrap, cling wrap, cling film. Yes, same thing.
I don't think you can get Isogenopak from a hobby shop. It is used by plumbers.
If you buy Isogenopak wholesale, it is a roll of 10m (cannot remember the width, but probably about 2m).
I remember now that you can get it in two different thicknesses, and I went for the thinner one.
I would suggest you visit a plumber, preferably one who specialises in insulated heat pipes (that is what the Isogenopak cladding is for) and ask to buy eg. a piece 1x1m for I guess around £5 cash. ok2
This is anyway what I did, and I haven't even used 1/10th of it yet.
I have to say that Isogenopak doesn't exist in Australia (climate is not for heavy insulation), so fortunately I got some help from a friend in Europe. :D
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hi
thats good there a plummer across the road
cheers
gary
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Poul,
Lovely work :}
It is very instructive to see how you build up complex shapes using combinations of materials, thanks for keeping us in the picture.
I googled this stuff Isogenopak, and found its made in Melton, about 20 miles away, and its essentially PVC sheet, with good thermal and extinguishing properties. I was given hundreds of feet of a pvc material many years ago - with a foam core and smooth skins, and have used it ever since for boat-making. The only thing I find is that I have not (yet) fond a solvent sdhesive.
But I will - I will have a word with the makers and see what they use - since they advertise a solvent
best regards,
andrew
aka liteflight
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Hi Andrew,
I am not sure that I would need to use a solvent cement for the Isogenopak PVC cladding as I never overlap it and I always adhere it non-PVC materials, mainly wood and styrene.
On the note of styrene, I found out yesterday that you can buy a large styrene sheet 76x137cm from a plastic sheet dealer at half the price you pay for the small packs from Evergreen, eg. a 0.5mm styrene sheet AU$4.50 vs. Evergreen's 3 small sheets of 15x30cm at AU$8.50 from the hobby shop. I am sure it must be proportionally the same in other countries.
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Hello :-)
Richelieu on the polish forum KLIK (http://koga.net.pl/component/option,com_joomlaboard/Itemid,293/func,view/id,27448/catid,523/limit,6/limitstart,0/)
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Thanks for the link, grzegorz75.
A beautiful model.
That makes me wish I could read Polish.
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Time for an update on my ongoing battle to build the Richelieu, and after 4 weeks of struggle, I have finally finished my small (the tinyest fiddly bits I have ever made) lookouts.
Just to give you an idea of the size, the binoculars are made from 0.5mm and 0.7mm round styrene rods, and the seats are only 1.5mm wide.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/17Dec2008Lookouts.jpg)
A close up of the two different binocular stands
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/17Dec2008Spotglasses.jpg)
and the aerial lookouts
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/17Dec2008Aeriallookout.jpg)
I have also finished most of the 20mm AA stations.
Here you see the front stations behind the front breakwater
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/17Dec200820mmFrontstations.jpg)
and here is the rear station with armament
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/17Dec200820mmRearstation.jpg)
The small towers in the background are for the M51 rangefinders for the 40mm quad Bofors armament, and in the front is one of the two 120cm searcdhlights.
For the 120cm searchlights I have used acrylic rod (to give the impression of glass) with PVC cladding wrapped around. Only dryfitted on the pic as I have to paint them later as 4 individual parts each:
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/18Dec2008Searchlight.jpg)
For the 60cm searchlights I have used acrylic rod inside a brass tube. The one on the right is already masked, and ready to be primed:
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/18Dec2008Searchlight2.jpg)
Everybody have a nice Christmas and a happy New Year.
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Amazing, Poul. %%
I couldn't even see that small without a mag glass, never mind construct them. Superb. :-))
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Excellent work. Great detail. Hope mine comes up as good. Any chance of the pics by email. Thanks. Adrian.
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G'Day poulw,
Your ability to build in such a small scale is absolutely amazing :o
How you managed to build such small fittings is way beyond my capabilities - I would need more than one magnifying lens - incredible
Anybody would be proud to own your model. :-))
Keep up the great work and especially the pic's and how you built various parts. :-)) :-)) :-))
What part of Australia do you live in?
Martin down under in Victoria....
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Extremely nice work! :-)) It's always interesting to see the materials + techniques other scratchbuilders use.
Did you build the 20mm Oerlikon guns entirely from scratch, or use commercial castings? The need to build dozens of identical AA guns is the main thing that'd put me off scratchbuilding a WW2 battleship!
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Thanks guys for your nice comments.
Good to hear that I seem to be doing something right.
Afterall, it is my very first attempt on a model (haven't even built a plastic kit before).
I'll try to answer your comments:
nhp651 and Edward, I do have a 5x mag lense with build-in circular light, but I prefer to use a pair of +3.00 spectables (bought cheaply at the chemist). Without those, I wouldn't be able to work at this scale either.
Adrian, it is a lot easier if you just right click on any of the pictures and select "Save Picture As". Then it can be downloaded directly to your PC.
Martin13, I am a fellow Victorian and live in Warrandyte, 25km NE of Melbourne. Here in my retirement, with the kids married and well under way, I have turned my home into a shipyard with loose parts all over the house waiting to be painted.
Edward, regarding the 20mm Oerlikon, I originally purchased 50 casts (white metal) in scale 1:192, but was about to throw them out as I didn't find them very presentable in quality. However, I thought of cutting of the shield and barrel and replace them with a 0.5mm styrene sheet as shield and a 0.5mm brass wire as barrel. I could also have built them totally from scratch; the main work would then have been to make the conical base, but this could be solved in just the same way as I made the base for the 60cm searchlights - putting a piece of 3mm acrylic rod in my drill press and shaping it with a file.
I too thought it would be a never ending story to build the 48 Oerlikon AA guns needed for the Richelieu, but it actually turned out to be one of the easiest parts to build - and very easy to set up as a "series production". It only took me one day to make the first 24 guns (still need to make the remaining 24 though, but I have already cut all the parts so they are ready when I get "itchy fingers" again).
An interesting thought I have had:
The small boats to me look like a nightmare to construct, so after Christmas I am going to try vacuum forming the hulls, using my vacuum cleaner and styrene sheet heated in the oven. Don't know how it will pan out, but I'll post pics of the jig, the process, and the (hopefully positive) result early in the new year.
All the best
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A happy modelling year 2009 to all.
Over the holydays I finished the boat rack, located between the front and rear superstructure, and one of the two cranes.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/14Jan2009Boatrackcrane.jpg)
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outstanding :o
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Thanks Dan :-)
I have now made Richelieu's bell from brass. Since I have no lathe, I used my drill press and a file to make it.
It will not be painted but left as it is.
The bell will be the last part for a while. From next week on, I will experiment with vacu forming - an all new ball game to me - in order to try and make the seven boats (the hulls) and the six double 100mm AA turrets.
This may (or may not {:-{) be an interesting experiment.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/15Jan2009ShipsBell.jpg)
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I still have a bit of thinking to do about my vucu-forming project, so while thinking I gave myself another little challenge.
On some pictures of Richelieu, I have found up to four benches - for the officers no doubt - at the rear of the main deck.
So, here is a pic of a prototype I have made.
Not sure yet if I'll make them or not - weaving that basket pattern is a killer ;D Just joking; I used very fine steel mesh.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/18Jan2009Bench.jpg)
The big white 'blob' on the right is the tip of a matchstick.
Taking my ten thumbs and shaky old hands into account, I wonder if it would be possible to paint a navy blue uniform on the guy {:-{
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First stage of my vacu forming project completed. The 15x19cm box for connecting the vacuum cleaner.
I put a 2mm styrene sheet on top, switched on the vacuum cleaner, checked that there was no leaks, and noticed that the rigid 2mm thick styrene sheet sagged noticeably in the middle due to the vacuum (it took a lot of force to remove while the vacuum was on).
Very positive so far. I think it'll do the job.
Forgot to take a pic before the mesh went on, but there is only one 25mm hole in the middle, and it all seems to follow the theory nicely.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/24Jan08Vacuforming1.jpg)
The reason to use a 15x19cm box, is that I have cut all my full styrene sheets (76x137cm) into smaller sheets of 19x30cm. This means that by halving these smaller sheets, I should be able to do two vacu forms from each in order to minimize the waste of styrene.
Next stage is to build the frame to hold the styrene sheet, and after that to test the behaviour of the styrene sheet in the oven.
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Hi Paul Superb build , There is a series of full page and sharp on board shots of Richelieu after her US re-fit in the book Warships and Warship Modelling . :-))
Bowwave
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Thanks Bowwave. Yes, I've got them.
Got the vacu forming going today - with mixed results at first.
After carefully watching a couple of styrene sheets sagging in the oven and then dropping all the way to the bottom, I was ready for my first go.
As you can see, I got web all over the place
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/25Jan09FirstVacuattempt.jpg)
I reasoned that the webbing was caused by too much stretch, so I made a new test and removed the styrene from the oven a little earlier, ie. less sag, but no matter what I did, I couldn't completely avoid webbing
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/25Jan09SecondVacuattempt.jpg)
After an hour of soul searching, I thought of the possibility of avoiding the webbing by elevating the moulds. So I made a 10mm elevation and flaired this elevation at the same time - and tried again
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/25Jan09NewVacutest.jpg)
And the result was surprisingly good - no webbing and good details
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/25Jan09FinalVacuattempt.jpg)
So, tomorrow is dedicated a "series production" of fittings normally difficult to construct in a traditional way.
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Have to take a break in my vacu-forming project >:-o
It is 37*C outside at the moment with a forecast of min. 40*C every day until Sunday, where we finally can expect a "cool" 31*C.
So, a hot oven inside the house is out of the question for the rest of the week >>:-(
In the meantime I'll continue with the mesh baskets for the ship.
There are 10 such baskets fitted on the outside of the upper decks along the railings.
Here is a pic of the first one I have just made. Not bad considering the size :}
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/27Jan09Basket.jpg)
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Finally a cool morning yesterday, so I decided to get the oven going and vacu form the hulls for the two whaleboats and the three motorboats, and it worked very well.
It only took me 15 minutes from the oven was preheated and until I had four perfect hulls of each type (I made two hulls in each run). So, today I have started fitting the whaaleboats.
I took a series of pics during the first run, so if anybody is interested, let me know and I'll post them.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Vacuforming6.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Vacuforming7.jpg)
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I had a question yesterday how my vacu-formed boats came out, so here is a couple of pics
The boats are only dry fitted since the parts have to be painted separately - they are too small to mask for my clumsy hands
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/20Feb09Whaleboat1.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/27Feb09Motorboat5.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/27Feb09Motorboat6.jpg)
At the moment, I'm taking a break from Richelieu while building the Oseberg kit from Billing Boats as my son's Birthday present, so no new updates until maybe mid/end of April
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I am now ready to start making the fourteen 40mm quad Bofors AA guns.
Having spent the last two days drawing up the parts, tomorrow I am ready to try if everything fits together. Here is a pic of the parts for the prototype
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/40mmprototype.jpg)
The four amber parts in the middle are resin castings.
Not made up yet for the prototype is the rear rail and the foot switch arrangements for the fire control. The fire control arrangements are linked to the small seats shown in the top right hand corner.
And this is my drawing of the assembled prototype (the individual parts are on a separate drawing)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/40mmquadBoforsgunassembled.jpg)
Whichever way it goes, I should hopefully be able to show a pic of the result tomorrow.
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Superb! :-))
But what's this 30-40C thing you talk about? I don't think Scotland's seen that since it was covered in volcanoes! :-)
Andy
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Poul,
wonderful - thanks for sharing
You giant match will become as famous as Shipbuilders pen
Vac -forming info:
Webbing is always a problem there sections change radically - it can often be eliminated, and always reduced by mounting the "model" on a transition part so that it sits higher, and there is a less transition from the model to the base. At any rate it usually places the webbing away from the part :}
Another solution (even if it might be difficult to use at your HUGE size) is to press a shaped "ring" down from the top as the vacuum is applied. There is a video of this happening at
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/gM7uSU89sNYjzyFDDYk5ilH9mE-WfbuXy-6_l_0rfTMpdwNv61zaEPy4pFs9B2pOZvIGKObtz-LVbIPNdhtDbiMpwvtIxjj4Fw/vac%20forming%20the%20507%20footy%20by%20go%20spectre%20dot%20com.mpg
This is sort of combining vac- and plunge-forming
andrew
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Poul,
I have just gone back and seen that you have done exactly the transition I was suggesting.
Sorry for repeating what you have already done :}
andrew
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To Andy:
I live in the outskirts of Melbourne, Australia, and we actually had just over 44C for a couple of days - that was during the big firestorms raging down here beginning of February.
Vac -forming info:
Webbing is always a problem there sections change radically - it can often be eliminated, and always reduced by mounting the "model" on a transition part so that it sits higher, and there is a less transition from the model to the base. At any rate it usually places the webbing away from the part :}
Another solution (even if it might be difficult to use at your HUGE size) is to press a shaped "ring" down from the top as the vacuum is applied. There is a video of this happening at
http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/gM7uSU89sNYjzyFDDYk5ilH9mE-WfbuXy-6_l_0rfTMpdwNv61zaEPy4pFs9B2pOZvIGKObtz-LVbIPNdhtDbiMpwvtIxjj4Fw/vac%20forming%20the%20507%20footy%20by%20go%20spectre%20dot%20com.mpg
This is sort of combining vac- and plunge-forming
andrew
Hi Andrew,
I have practically eliminated webbing completely by using a "two-stage" transition part. The upper transition part is exactly the same shape as the model part (just makes the model part 3-4mm higher), while the lower part (about 10mm high) is tapered, and a lot of small holes are drilled along the circumference of the upper transition part.
The pic of the two boat model parts in my post of 25 Jan, 2009, is actually taken before I decided to use an upper transition part as well. This made a huge difference in respect to webbing - if there was any tendency to webbing around the part, it only showed at the bottom couple of mm on the upper transition part (mainly at sharp edges).
The reason for using an upper transition part (instead of just making the model part higher) is, that after the vacu forming is completed, the model part can then be separated from the upper transition part, put back into the finished "imprint" in the styrene sheet, and I can then cut along the edge of the model part - a very quick and easy way to get a perfect finish of the otherwise "flimsy" styrene.
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Hi Andrew,
We are playing tag here :D :D :D
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Everything on the 40mm quad Bofors prototype seems to fit perfectly - except for the gun shield.
I kinks out too wide and goes too far back which creates far too much tension. This in turn tends to push the front corners forward.
So, back to the drawing board >>:-(
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/40mm_1.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/40mm_2.jpg)
I actually may leave the prototype for a little while to clear my mind.
BTW, the two "loops" (in front of the gun barrels in the pics) are the two gun sights.
They are made from 0.25mm brass wire wrapped around a 0.5mm drill bit - very fiddly work.
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After three exhausting weeks of battling the quad 40mm Bofors guns, I am nearly there. This is very fiddly stuff indeed %%
However, seven of the fourteen guns are ready - without the front shield - for priming :-)
But if I add the front shield now, it will be impossible to paint the complete assembly nicely. So the shields will have to wait until after the final paint :((
Unfortunately, I had to give up on the two foot switch fire control arrangements. They were simply too small for me to make <:(
Here is what the guns look like
(with my usual 4"x4" gigantic matchstick in front ;D ;D ;D )
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/40mmBofors15-5-2009.jpg)
On the pic, it may look like the gun barrels are a bit out of alignment, but I can only explain that as optical distortion of the camera (very close distance). I have double checked the alignment, and it is spot on ;)
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Poul,
One of my first actions on lighting up the confuser is to look at "unread posts"; and to see a contribution from you in there is always an pleasure :}
I know that it will be interesting, clear and instructive, and this is all of that.
I presume that you will paint then add the gunshields later?
Sorry to hear about the fire pedals - I was looking forward to hear how you wove the tread in the middle of the foot pedal!
Congratulations, and please keep us posted
Was your match cut from a single trunk?
andrew
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I presume that you will paint then add the gunshields later?
Sorry to hear about the fire pedals - I was looking forward to hear how you wove the tread in the middle of the foot pedal!
Yes Andrew, the shields and gun assys will be painted separately and then put together afterward.
However, all painting - except for primer - is still a couple of months away.
Regarding woven thread, I have just figured out how to make the woven bottoms in the stacked life rafts - but that's also a month or so away.
Yeah, I know :embarrassed:
Sometimes it is annoying not to make a part when you just feel like it. But my game plan has worked so far so I'll stick to it.
This means that deck fittings (which includes life rafts) come after the armament, and I still need to construct the six double 100mm AAs.
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Poul
Don't know if it helps, but I have been buying infinitely fine stainless mesh at work - I could slip a swatch in an envelope if you would pm me with a snail address. The supplier goes to about 400 threads per inch, I seem to remember, and offers it in several wire diameters, too :}
In truth I was not being completely serious about the grip pattern on the firing pedals - its like the scale model aircraft where you peer in the cockpit and remark " I see you have the right number of eyelets in the flying boots" And in some cases it is literally true!
andrew
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Awesome is a much used and abused word these days.
However I feel I must say that this build is precisely that - awesome.
Damned fine model sir, very nice work.
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Thanks Steve for your nice comment :-)
Thanks for your offer Andrew. I already have some stainless steel mesh which I used for the baskets (see reply #30), but it's a bit coarse. I'll try to figure out how to send you a PM.
In the meantime, this pic probably gives a better feel for the size of the 40m quad Bofors guns
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/40mmquadBofors15-5-2009.jpg)
It also shows the alignment marks I needed to add (on my printer) to assemble these small parts ok2
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:} OOOOOHHHHHH!!! what big hands you have said little red riding hood to gra------, better not say the last bit.
I suppose your hands have to be that big to pick up the matchstick {-) {-) :}
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After finishing the fourteen 40mm quad Bosfors guns (minus shields), I am now moving on to the prototype of the double 100mm AA guns :-)
This pic shows the housing (vacu formed), a strip of 0.5mm styrene with prints of the base (printed on my Canon inkjet), and a cut base with the two posts and double handwheels.
No resin castings will be used for this gun.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/100mmprototype2.jpg)
Success or failure, I'll post pics as I go :D
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Alright, alright ..... Enough hints !
Here it is :D
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/matchlight2.jpg)
:embarrassed: :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
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Poul,
I had somehow imagined you as a more "mature" gentleman :}
(And the matchstick is smaller than in my imagination)
a swatch of the mesh is (will be) winging its way to you
This is the mesh supplier - I have found them radically helpful - 500 mesh count is 500 threads per inch - not tooooo coarse
http://www.fhbrundle.com/wove-10.htm
The sample is 100 mesh, 316 stainless but for most of our purposes phosphor bronze would be more convenient and solderable
(http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd159/andrewh_photo/meshcat.jpg)
regards,
andrew
The letters on the catalog are 3.71 light years high, for reference
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Andrew,
I think the photo is of an elf or a miniput holding a matchstick :}
I'll be looking forward to receive that mesh.
To be honest, the figures don't tell me anything, so I guess I have to see it to get a feel for it.
But at least I now know where to get it.
Thanks a lot for your trouble :-))
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I finished the six 100mm housings last week (vacu formed with details glued on)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/100mmhousing29-5-09.jpg)
Then I needed a small break from the 100mm guns, so I have finished most of the remaining deck fittings in the meantime
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Fittings3-6-09.jpg)
Now it is back to the guns again {:-{
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For the last 2-3 weeks I have battled on and off with the 100mm gun stations and they are finally finished .... well, almost.
For the double gun stations, I still need to make some small support legs and the railings around the stairs.
Here are some pics from different angles
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/100mmguns13-7-2009.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/100mmguns23-7-2009.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/100mmguns33-7-2009.jpg)
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I realise that this build will not be finished for quite a while but so far this has been an absolutely brilliant thread.
Thank you for sharing. :-))
Ron.
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I realise that this build will not be finished for quite a while but so far this has been an absolutely brilliant thread.
Thank you for sharing. :-))
Ron.
My pleasure, Ron :-)
I am not sure what you mean by "quite a while", but my eyes are set on finishing the build within two to three months from now O0
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Finally some progress to show.
The hull is now fully painted and I have started painting all the other bits and pieces.
Here is a pic of the finished hull.
The parts on top of the hull are the ones ready to be painted (arranged in no particular order ;) )
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Hull1-10-09.jpg)
Here is a close up of the front
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Hullfront1-10-09.jpg)
The mid section (starboard)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Hullmid1-10-09.jpg)
The rear
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Hullrear1-10-09.jpg)
and the mid section (port)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Hullmidport1-10-09.jpg)
Don't worry, I have not had a cockatoo invasion - it's a statue behind the ship ;D ;D ;D
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Very impressed with your build to date. Wish mine was progressing as fast. Only seem to have the funnel made to date. Slowly still working on the hull. Any chance of some close ups of all completed bits and pieces before final assembly as can get more detail from places that will be obscured. Knowing it is half the size of my build makes the detail and effort you have put in extremely impressive. Hope mine will look as good.
Regards,
Adrian.
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The ship's boats are now finished.
The whaleboats are 6.5cm long
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Whaleboats.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Whaleboats2.jpg)
The motorboats are 5.5cm long
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Vedettes1.jpg)
The staffs are only dry fitted as I am not quite sure about the exact available space - the may have to be shortened a bit - and the two 'RICHELIEU' signs came out really well, considering the letters are only 0.9mm high.
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Lovely work Poulw. What materials did you use?
Doug
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The boats are made from styrene sheets and the hulls are vacu-formed.
Decks are 0.6mm veneer cut from 0.6mm sandwiched offcuts - looks like "planks".
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I have now started the fitting out and finished the front deck, except for the AA guns - too risky at this stage.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Fittingout4.jpg)
And from a different angle when almost finished
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Fittingout4A.jpg)
The two small look-out platforms at the very front will be fitted with the railings.
I wonder how on Earth I am going to make the blast bags for the main guns. Any ideas ???
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I wonder how on Earth I am going to make the blast bags for the main guns. Any ideas ???
Poul
Usual prefix - this is not something I have done - BUT
I believe the originals were many layers of strong canvas held at both ends (I guess) by bands or bolts through flanges
Perhaps you could make a mould from a hardening clay or similar (perhaps more than one mould) and either vac-form or more likely mould the bags in tissue paper using white glue as the bonding agent.
Yes I do appreciate that these are near-infinitesimally small, but you are a patient and talented modeller :}
andrew
Love the pics as she approaches completion!
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Thanks Andrew,
I've received a few suggestions on blast bags, but they all involve the use of glue.
My main guns can elevate, so this feature would then go out the window.
So, at this stage I think I'll leave it as is,
Anyway, today I have worked constantly on my Richelieu, and this is what she looks like at the end of a very long day
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Fittingout29Oct2009.jpg)
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Exquisite!
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I've received a few suggestions on blast bags, but they all involve the use of glue.
My main guns can elevate, so this feature would then go out the window.
So, at this stage I think I'll leave it as is,
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Fittingout29Oct2009.jpg)
Poul
No, it will be better than that!
a couple of layers of tissue paper bonded with white glue is very flexible, and will allow the elevation
So will a VERY thin vac-forming in styrene - perhaps .005 in
OR you could dip in latex solution to make flexible blast bag, but in this case you need to paint it or it will "revert"
More later, but there is still a good solution :}
andrew
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You are probably correct Andrew.
Anyway, I have now figured out that I am not in a hurry. Apart from elevating, the main guns also swivel and are detachable, so however I decide to make the blast bags, it will be easy to do later.
Today I have been trying to rig the cranes.
Very fiddly work, but I am getting there as you can be seen from this photo
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Crane.jpg)
All parts are ready to be fitted, so I expect to be able to show the completed battleship in 2-3 weeks time - with updates in between.
The superstructure should be completed over the weekend.
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The fitting out is nearly complete now, and my tray with parts is nearly empty.
All AA guns along the railings still need to be fitted. That will happen after the railings are in place to avoid any accidental damage.
Today I have completed the rear deck.
The small cranes are not yet fixed, as it would make the fitting of railings very difficult.
Again, on the rear deck the AA guns will be fitted after the railings are in place, and so will the ensign staff.
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Fittingout10A.jpg)
And a complete view
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Fittingout10B.jpg)
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Words escape me,the ammount of work that you've put into this,is nothing short of spectacular,what a superb job. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) O0 O0
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:-) :-) :-) **** COMPLETE **** :-) :-) :-)
Please enjoy
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Rear1.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Rear.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Superstructure2.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Superstructure4B.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Superstructure3.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Superstructuretopview.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Mainguns.jpg)
(http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/ll242/poulw/Richelieu%201-200/Complete-Front1.jpg)
It has taken me 2 years, 9 months, and about 7,600 handmade parts to complete her.
O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0
For the record:
Manufactured parts used:
1) 4xProps
2) 4x Anchors
3) Some of the gun barrels
4) Some of the stairs and ladders
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I have thoroughly enjoyed all your posts and would like to thank you for sharing it.
Your work is superb and a great credit to you.
The only question is, what is your next project?
Best wishes
Jules
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Next project:
'The lucky ship' Prinz Eugen 1945 in scale 1:200.
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"Next up Prinz Eugen"
I admire you. I think your work is inspirational, so I look forwards to reading that one.
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STUNNING
thanks for sharing
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Unfortunately, I have a sad announcement to make:
Due to an unforeseeable amount of images in my Photobucket account, I will have to reorganise them all into proper sections.
So please be aware, that all my posted pictures in this build diary, as well as my pictures posted in other threads, will most likely have disappeared after the 1st of January 2010 <:(
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Unfortunately, I have a sad announcement to make:
Due to an unforeseeable amount of images in my Photobucket account, I will have to reorganise them all into proper sections.
So please be aware, that all my posted pictures in this build diary, as well as my pictures posted in other threads, will most likely have disappeared after the 1st of January 2010 <:(
Poul This is exemplary build and a magnificent model to view .Thanks for posting.
Bowwave :-)) :-)) :-))
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Poul,
First - thank you very much for sharing the build, and the steps, and your thinking :}
Second - The ship is wonderful - a credit to you and your workmanship (and your HUGE match)
third - When you have organised your photobucket; you are able to edit the links (on the thread) to the photos. I don't suggest that you do all of them, but would personally appreciate it if you would do the last few pictures of the finished ship
Prinz Eugen, eh? Will she be a floating model?
Please :}
andrew
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It has taken me 2 years, 9 months, and about 7,600 handmade parts to complete her.
She's very lovely Poul.
...And only 2.75 years! :o You're going some (as year 4 dawns over my Dreadnought...)
Oh yes, one question: what did you use for the portholes?
Andy
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.... - When you have organised your photobucket; you are able to edit the links (on the thread) to the photos. I don't suggest that you do all of them, but would personally appreciate it if you would do the last few pictures of the finished ship
Prinz Eugen, eh? Will she be a floating model?
Back in June, I started to upload my Richelieu images to a dedicated Richelieu section in Photobucket.
I can still use that section for my upcoming reorganisation of pictures. This means that only the first two pages of the thread should be affected.
As for the Prinz, no I am not into the R/C stuff.
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Hi Andy,
Sorry for being a bit late in answering your question.
For the portholes, I used these small brass 'rivets' - same system as on your shoes for the shoe laces - I really don't know what they are called. I think their original purpose is to make a connection through a hole in a printed circuit board, or something like that.
For my 1:200 scale model, I used the ones with a 2mm diameter 'tube', ie. 40cm portholes.
Hope this answers your question, otherwise I can take a photo of one and post.
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Thank you - that answers my question.
Good luck with the Prinz - please keep a build log on Mayhem!
Andy