Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: 2772e on November 04, 2006, 09:12:33 am
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Can anyone recommend a supplier of thin guage wiring for nav and running lights please?
It needs to pass through the masts etc.
Prefereably the same wire/thickness that comes with commercial lights.
They never give you enough in the packs for the top of the mast?
??? ???
Regards
Simon
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Would telephone wire be to thin
Richard :-\
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Richard,
Tried that sorry, single core and too stiff.
Really need v thing sheathed multi core to get the flexibility.
::)
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Or visit your local Maplins/RS Components (both on line) for miniature extra flexible wire.
Rick
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Hi. I use computer Ribbon cable for this type of job, if your careful you can rip one ore two cores from the rest, one core is about one millimeter outside diameter, with 7strands of conductor inside. big advantage is where you need several wires along the same run, you just tear off the required number and glue it down flat ie under deks orinside cabin roofs etc.
Cheers Tom
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I found a railway model supplier that sells 0.6mm multistrand wire in 10m lengths and, having ordered some, can say that it's perfect for the job.
www.expressmodels.co.uk (http://www.expressmodels.co.uk/acatalog/0_6mm_Diameter_Multistrand_cable_.html)
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I use wire available in dolls house shops, it is multistrand, flexible and thin.Usually comes in twin core, but you can run a number of wires , if you use a brass mast, the negative return can got to the foot of the mast, and only a positve wire needs to be run from the individual lights, the light negative is then soldered to the mast in close proximity to the light. I run steaming light, 3 towing lights and not under command (NUC lights )all off one negative return.
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;Dthe last boat i fitted nav lights/mast lights to (zwartzee) i used thin brass wire up each side of the mast soldered and painted .almost invisible. ::)
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Alternatively try 0.15mm enamelled copper wire. Very thin and reasonably flexible, can take enough mA for bulb. Only thing is that you need to mark the runs to ensure correct wiring.
Tim the Wombat
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And as a last alternative I have taken the ends off a couple of old parallel port computer cables, some of them have twenty five core inside, perfect for running lights ....
Roy
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I buy dolls house lighting wire. Pete M
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http://www.maplin.co.uk/search.aspx?MenuNo=56068&MenuName=ALARM%20CABLE&FromMenu=y&DOY=4m11
Strips down into 4,6 or 8 strands, all individually insulated and colour-coded. Simple stuff works best for me.
Suit yourself.
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If you are going to Warwick next weekend, we will have the wire that we use for our working lights for sale on our stand in 2 Metre lengths. It's multi-strand copper, very thin and flexible with black insulation.
Regards, Malc
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Well, spent all afternoon sodding around with the lights, getting the radar working and finishing a couple of bits on the aerials.
Tried the suggestions of earthing out on the brass, works really well, thanks. Now i only have to run run one wire down the tube. So simple when you know how.
Whats the best way of powering the lights/radar etc in the superstructure and still making it removable without having wires running all over the place?
Has anyone tried a quick release thingy. Thought of a couple of springs, one on each side on the cabin touching brass plates on the deck, saves the wires me thinks?
Any one got any suggestions please?
Thanks Malc, cant make it. Going into London Sunday for Armistice Day. See you another time.
Regards
Simon
:D :D
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Simon
Not that anybody would try to persuade you to miss the Armistice Day events, but a two minute silence is rightfully observed at 11am on the 11th of November at the Leamington Spa show.
Have a peaceful day in London.
Regards, Malc
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Simon,
All I usually do with lights and radar is attach a small pack of double A batteries 3.6 volt, to the underside of the superstructure and there is no problem with removing the top as it is not connected by wires, it is suprising how long the pack will last as the draw in minimal....
Roy
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And as Roy has pointed out previously, at 3.6 Volts, you can run LED's without resistors...
Malc
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http://www.jaketalbot.com/actionkit/products.htm
Magnetic connectors (near bottom of this list).
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I used mini jack plugs and a coiled lead on my Brittany Trawler. This arrangement allows you to remove the superstructure easily to get at the motor, drive batterires etc without having to unplug the lights. However, if you need to remove the s/s some distance from from the hull you just unplug the jack plugs. The arrangement also means you don't have to line up the connectors when replacing the s/s.
Cheers
Doug
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Simon,
You have two options. One is to place the power supply for the lights in the superstructure. The other is to use a connector between superstructure and deck/hull. The thingy about using springs and brass plates does work. Not really all that difficult to do, but not as simple as it might seem either. If the 'right' type of 'plug' assembly is used, it can also help keep the superstructure 'fixed' to the deck, sort of. With all the different types of connectors around today you ought to be able to cobble something together that will work.
- 'Doc
PS - Just going by the size of your boat in the picture, an 'add-on' cigar lighter ought'a work!
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A Tamiya connector works as well as anything else...
Malc
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I use metal repair tape (Speed-tape to us at work) which is ideal for making contacts.
Solder, or even stick, wires from the battery to a strip and form a makeshift busbar. You can then have similar on the removeable portion of the superstructure to take the power wherever you need it to go.
Works well up to 12v for me............................just don't let the storeman know where all the speed tape has gone!!
Craig
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I used cut down IDE connectors (hard drive and Cd rom stytle things) on my pusher tug Egrete.
Pictures on my web site - www.marine-modelling.co.uk
Scottie
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Can anyone recommend a supplier of thin guage wiring for nav and running lights please?
It needs to pass through the masts etc.
Simon
Simon,
I just bought some rainbow cable, which is thirteen core wide and perfect for lights and radar, most electronic shops should have it, it can be easily stripped into one, two ,three and so fourth, and it is dirt cheap...........
Roy
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Why not use copper tape for running up masts and inside cabins. The use it to run the power round dolls houses, it is self adhesive and you can solder to it. I would have thought that you could clad the mast in it then solder the lights at the top, then rough it up and paint it.
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Roy
Your rainbow cable is my ribbon cable. It is is available up to 30 wires wide, and is also available in grey, makes it less conspicuous
Tom
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To connect removeable superstructure cabling, I use a set (male+female) of 9 pin D-type connectors. Also handy as there's just enough resistance to hold the s/s in place. I do like the idea of those metal tubes and rods though.
Mike
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For what it's worth, 2772e's question regarding thin guage wire, another possible solution could be the wire robbed from an old relay. On the upside it's thin, flexible, insulated and okay for stuffing inside masts', etc. You can also get miles of the stuff from old loudspeakers. Over here we call it enamel wire -- our Stateside cousins call it magnet wire, (right, Doc?). On the downside it's somewhat delicate and too puny for heavy loads. But if it's a case of running just the odd LED or ten - or in 2772e's case, a mast light - it works fine.
And while you're on the subject of connectors...
I struggled trying to figure an easy way to swap my Rx between boats without the usual hassle of plugging/unplugging all the connections. A 25-pin computer 'D' plug/socket was pressed into service. The attached photo shows said connector directly beneath the receiver. Ribbon cables are soldered from the appropriate pins to each and every servo and rc switch, etc. And although neatly glued and running parallel and ship-shape, I'm not entirely happy with the end result. A lot of work and a steady hand is needed with the soldering iron and if anything should go belly-up it's not so easy to repair without recourse to even more lots of work. In the end I abandoned the idea in favour of simply buying another Rx.
Maybe some of you with more noodle than I could adapt the same idea for better uses? After all, 'D' plug/sockets are dirt cheap and 25 pins gives you loads of scope for plenty of add-ons.
On the other hand, regarding the connections from the ship's interior to the super-structure, a bog-standard jack plug/socket has proved the best so far. If you squint you can just make out the 3.5mm jack in the photo (it's partially obscuring the Rx). This is the jack from the R/C switch which mates with a 3.5mm socket on the s/s, which feeds the cabin lights.
I'm outta here before you paranoid lot accuse me of waffling.
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I hate people who produce such nice tidy set-ups. Although they work, mine always look like birds nests. I am just jealous, of course. Pete
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Thanks Chaps,
In the end i found alarm wire broken down into single strands did the job at about 0.97mm.
As far as the connections are concerned, after a post concerning magnet connectors i ordered 1/2 a dozen to give them ago. They do the job fantastically, and keep the superstructure in situ, no wires. And at only 70p for a pair very cheap.
Thanks again to the Forum for advise and to Action for the connectors.
I will try and Post picture later
Regards
Simon
;D ;D
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Magnet Pictures. Tidy is necessary!
;)
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Nice pictures, Simon.
But what's with the tubing around both motors? I mean, it's obviously a cooling system, but how does it work? Do those motors get THAT hot, then?
You work is excellent. VERY tidy!
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Why, thank you Mr PMK.
The cooling tubes are from the old torpedo 850's i had, i thought they might handle the abuse of 18 volts better if they were cooled. How wrong was i, went up in smoke!
The motors are rated for 22,000 rpm and 20 volts and have a built in cooling fan, i thought, as i already had the tubes might as well keep them, lower heat = more power/run time. I have yet to put this too the test as the combination of motors/volts/props/esc was only sorted at the last outing and then the battery's went flat.
I prefer the vacuum version in the bottom of the hull, one pick, 2 small holes in front of each other, up along side each tube. Allot less drag and i find more efficient than the picks ups that sit in the prop wash. Discreet/cheap and effective. I also use one to cool a esc on another boat.
Have not had a chance to get out since then.
Regards
Simon
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So would I be right in thinking that the spinning of the motors causes a sort of syphon/pump action? If you see what I'm saying.
It's a clever idea. I've seen it used on IC boats, but I didn't realise it would work on electrics'.
You've obviously got good aptitude for neatness. Them pictures show the sort of quailty that I'm still striving for.
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PMK
I think you might be a little confused with regards to the water cooling pipes seen in the photo'.
Usually, on the bottom of the hull will be a scoop, usually in close proximity to the prop, and water is forced into the ooling tube by the thrust from the prop and forward motion of the boat. This is the most common form of water cooling.
Now if Simon will please explain his vacuum method I would be most grateful....and yes, you are tidy
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Thanks again for the compliments.
The water pick up is commercially available and whilst it has the same effect as the scoop in the prop wash i do not like them. Just preference.
Drill two holes one in front of the other in the hull about 3mm wide, along side the prop shaft and stick the small plastic pick up, screw it in and forget it. There is a small fence/barrier between first and second hole, this gives the effect of the vacuum/ sucking the air and then water through as the hull travels through the water. The drag is minimal and the faster the boat the more water cooling.
External picture enclosed.
The unit is made by Robbe (i think) and i have purchased them through Hobbystores, and about four quid each.
I use one for each engine on my RTL and one for the motor and esc in the MTB.
;)
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Thanks, Grasshopper. You're right - a bit confoozled I am.
I get the gist of what you're saying regarding the scoop idea. But in Simon's case I can't see how the water would get sucked up the tube in the first place. The words action and capillary spring to mind. So would that have anything to do with it? And if so, how?
In return for your know-how, here are tomorrow's winning lottery numbers...
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My system is obvious, forward motion plus prop thrust, forces water up the scoop, through the tube, round the motor and out via the exit (above the waterline)
This vacuum method.....so the two holes are in line with the direction of travel, there's a small dam / fence between front and rear hole.
This means that the drag caused by the fence creates the vacuum and sucks at the rear hole, drawing water up the front hole - easy really, and 'dam' clever - sounds like it could make you eyes water tho'......sorry...I'll fetch me coat.
Now about these numbers....
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Now, now gentlemen. I dont thing this is the right forum for sucking through the back hole and water in the front. Or has all that glue, solder and paint casused me to log onto something accidently!
::) ::)