Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: benjaml1 on December 11, 2009, 11:09:14 pm
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Well, After my brief escapade with the Stuart Turner D10. ( fantastic engine if built well) I have secured a "factory machined" un-assembled Stuart Turner Sun. Well... it looked a little rusty in the pictures & I was assured it was just surface rust, indeed the critical components were just so. Twas all jumbled in a box but everything was there in excellent condition except the tower shaft eccentric bushing. After much research, got with a company specialising in robotics & have a nice ball race coming for the same duty. Stuart Sun comes into the 21st Century... :-))
OK, This is a little jewel, factory machined or whomever, I would like to shake the mans hand who did the machining.... Simply superb.
Being an I/C man I have/am going about the "head" porting & polishing. Old habits are hard to let go of I'm afraid, noooo I'm leaving the timing as is. With the right boiler ( Nice Mr Mac is building me one) this little jewel should just sing...
Pics will follow as soon as my dear wife gets me off christmas tree/lights/ornament/decoration duty....
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Now you need a lovely long slender hull and a quick turning big pitch prop and you'll be the envy of all!!!! :-))
Greg
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Gone the other way, big beamy hull with lots of displacement to actually look like a boat on the water instead of a bobbing fishing float. I was torn in your direction though... :-))
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<:( Supose we'll have to wait till my full size design model is built to see a fast model steam launch again!!! :-))
Greg
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Looking forward to it.... :-))
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Yeah, get a move on Greg. :}
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Starting to clean up quite nicely. May paint it GWR colours but definitely insulating & going with mahogany planking on brass ..... :-))
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2033.jpg)
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looks great, I bet this would look really good anodised....
Greg
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Cast steel I'm afraid, so can't anodise.... The Stuart Turner "Star" has an aluminium block. I'm going to open up exhaust side, that darn top 5/16" fitting is too restrictive ( low pressure= big ports) in my book. Most likely convert it to 8mm in a similar configuration as the Star.. :-))
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Hi Benjaml1
What a shame about steel- aluminium one anodised red would look SO cool!
Yes, always big port for the exhaust- especially on a high speed engine- do you mean 8mm bore or M8 thread? You have to comprimise between steam velocity and backpressure- you obviously want as little backpressure as possible, however you also want a decent steam velocity otherwise you'll just have a fountain of condensate coming out of the exhaust!
Greg
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Points to consider, thank... :-))
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Any ideas what oil I should use in the sump, it being enclosed ? The same as in the displacement lubricator ?....
Ta... :-))
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Bearing fitted to eccentric drive, cleaning up, checking & fabricating gaskets. Dummy assembly before modifying the head to reduce back pressure. Loving the way this engine goes together...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/ENGINE-1.jpg)
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HI Benjaml1,
Progressing well! :D
Regarding oil- I take it the Sun is single acting?
If so you will need an oile that runs emulsified as it WILL get water in it.
If not then steam-gearbox oil for Sentinel steam lorries will do just fine.
Morris Lubricants are the people to get in touch with.
Greg
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Yes, single acting... Thanks for that Greg... :-))
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Went with two separate 8mm exhausts, a straight shot from the spool valve. Doing some cleaning up of rough edges etc. etc. getting ready to paint and assemble....Didn't like the two holes in the crank case so went with risers. One will have a cap and dipstick the other will be a covered vent. Had to kick them out like that to allow access the cylinder cover screws.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2076.jpg)
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Interesting fact, way back when in the early days of flash steam tethered hydroplanes (1930-ish) they ran the steam in the other way ie where your exhaust is they used as an inlet and the inlet as exhaust. I did this on my engine some years, and on flash steam you do get a bit more oomph, you tend not to get much difference when using a boiler though.
With regard the oil for the crankcase, as Greg has said Sentinal Gearbox oil is good, but failing that Hypoy 90 gear oil is perfect, I have been using this (as did my father and grandfather) in all of our enclosed (and indeed open crank ) engines and never had any problems. A good tip as you have the engine apart is to paint the inside of the crankcase, it does help. You will also need to drain down and flush the engine through (I use petrol) at the end of a days running to remove all the emulsified oil from the crank case (I put a 1/2 tapped hole in the base plate) then pump some steam oil in the exhaust and turn the engine "backwards" a few times to pull the oil into all the valve gear etc.
Some of this may be obvious, just thought I would share. :-))
Good work,keep us up to date
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Thanks for that Phil, these little gems of knowledge passed across the decades/centuries is what it's all about... :-))
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Got the exhaust fabbed up, most likely going to insulate and or tone it down a bit but the extrovert in me favours the shiny bling..... It's going to connect to a centrifugal separator, oil/condensate dropping out and being collected in a tank, with the separator freely exhausting to atmosphere
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2079.jpg)
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Those 6 bolt brass flanges look the part... :-))
1) are the flanges DN 1/8" or DN 5/32"....& are the bolts 8 BA?
2) will you be using paper gaskets or synthetic gasketing [Hyperlon] ?
3) did you make them or are they comercially available? [Winfried Niggle .de] in Germany manufactures model flanges...however I suspect yours are of a smaller sizing
I have not seen a model centrifugal oil seperator...so it is best to try & maintain as much heat in the exhaust steam to ensure the highest drop out rate at the condensor....& stainless steel [tubing] can be very un-forgiving in heat transfer
Keep us posted with more .jpgs as you progress : O0 .... many Mayhem members are very keen on steam articles.......Derek
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I bought the 20mm flanges for 8mm tube from Model-Niggel and they are little jewels.... Supplied are gaskets and bolts :-)) Centifugal separator works on the principal of swilring condensate/steam around the inner circumference of a drum vessel. This is a static device, the gasses entering at a tangent to the inner vessel wall. Heavies are separated by centrifugal force and drop to the bottom to be collected/drained or in the real world steam trapped... :-)) I like the ridgidity of stainless tube together with its poorer thermal conductivity properties compared to copper....
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I bought the 20mm flanges for 8mm tube from Model-Niggel and they are little jewels.... Supplied are gaskets and bolts :-))
Does he have a Website?
Did he do the elbows too?
It looks absolutely fantastic.
Regards,
Gerald.
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The elbows are 8mm Yorkshire GHD Elbows for cryogenic liquid oxygen use. I paid 40 quid for 6 but that's a steal as they're normally double that. Bit of an overkill but they're the dogs.. ok2
The flanges are here ... http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Modellbau-Niggel__W0QQ_armrsZ1 (http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/Modellbau-Niggel__W0QQ_armrsZ1)
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7 hours work customising the cylinder jacket. I may put a few more copper rivets on the bottom band to make it look balanced... Retired with weeks of terrible weather, this hobby stops you going crazy I spose... :o
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2087.jpg)
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No Postie for a couple of "daze" so working on the engine-boiler bed.....Two brass plates surrounded by containment bund/frames mounted on two 5/8" sq brass rails....Wooden engine pad decking, spaced for drainage to surrounding recessed "gutters", to be copper riveted ( when Postie brings my 1/16" drill bits..) to simulate nails. Total length, 500mm :-)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2095.jpg)
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A good tip as you have the engine apart is to paint the inside of the crankcase, it does help. You will also need to drain down and flush the engine through (I use petrol) at the end of a days running to remove all the emulsified oil from the crank case (I put a 1/2 tapped hole in the base plate) then pump some steam oil in the exhaust and turn the engine "backwards" a few times to pull the oil into all the valve gear etc.
Been quiet posting but still very busy. The weather has slowed my supplies down a bit but work continues. Excellent tip on painting the inside of the crankcase but I have taken it one step further. I am a devotee of the "original" JB -Weld epoxy & have done some tests diluting it with Acetone as a thinner. Yes, you guessed it, I'm going to "paint" the inside of my engine with thinned JB-Weld. It sets up like smooth ceramic & good for 500 deg F... :-))
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Gnus, almost there now... Assembly lube ? Hypoy 90 gear oil as previously recommended ( thank you) or something special ... Steam oil or lithium based grease ?
Cylinder insulation...Cotton OK or again, something special ?
Ta in advance...
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A good tip as you have the engine apart is to paint the inside of the crankcase, it does help.
So pleased with the quality of the Stuart paint, (especially the black gloss) I went ahead & used this for the inside of the crankcase. Great tip, many thanks... :-))
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Another question: Would anyone recommend a dab of "Loctite" on the con rod screws ?
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Loctite - for whatever reason......the manufacturer Henkel market the same product in different countries under different part numbers ......however a ''Stud Lock" product post application of the correct Loctite spray primer would be a mechanically sound prospect
Depending on the size of the threaded components you may consider one of the BLUE Loctite product range as they are termed as 'demountable' or removable :-))
I would not like to try & undo a 10BA brass cheese head screw that had be bonded with "Super Stud Lock" <*< ......
As with soldering....cleanless is next to godliness when using Loctite products........ O0 Derek
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Loctite - for whatever reason......the manufacturer Henkel market the same product in different countries under different part numbers ......however a ''Stud Lock" product post application of the correct Loctite spray primer would be a mechanically sound prospect
Depending on the size of the threaded components you may consider one of the BLUE Loctite product range as they are termed as 'demountable' or removable :-))
I would not like to try & undo a 10BA brass cheese head screw that had be bonded with "Super Stud Lock" <*< ......
As with soldering....cleanless is next to godliness when using Loctite products........ O0 Derek
Thank you, so would you ( or any other learned member) suggest I use a thread locker on the con rod screws ? They're 7 BA slotted cheese head. I have spare hex heads also which may serve this duty well ??
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benjaml1 ....you could calculate the scale torque required for a 7BA screw.......as compared to the full sized fastener...........but how do we apply this super small scale torque value? ....yes your calibrated thumb & forefinger {-) O0
When we come back to basics we are attempting to add a preload to the screw so it does not vibrate/fatigue & loosen...... {:-{
Before Loctite type products were developed....engineering security relied on lock nuts & in many full sized engineering applications are still used today.....conversley I cannot think of too many large diameter bolted applications in full size marine engines where Loctite is used .....no flogging M160 diameter high tensile nuts with 14 lb hammers....just apply the computer controlled head tensioning jack rings.....tension the studs...........rotate the M160 daimeter nuts by hand to engage ....release the hydraulic stretch & hey presto perfectly applied & uniform preload induced torque values
Miniature slotted or cheese head screws are clearly more difficult to tighten with any comprehension of applied torque [tension] over hex headed screws or nuts being tightened with close fitting [BA type] tube sockets
I have previously offered the BLUE Loctite product range for consideration....best wait & see if another member has an alternate recommendation .......Derek :}
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Thank you Derek, I have used both Red & Blue & commend your advice.... :-))
On a side not, I'm having to lap this engine together, the tolerances being very close. Is that normal for a factory machined Stuart engine ?
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Went with closed cell silicone rubber sheet for insulation...Now finished & turns over ( by hand) with a nice "Plop Plop" sound....
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/0001-2.jpg)
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Condensate/Oil seperator. Exhaust entering & condensate/oil exiting tangentially to the receiver...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/0002-1.jpg)
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My reverse/neutral gearbox... However, I would like to thank Mainsteam Models for the original concept/idea...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2105.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2106.jpg)
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Is there an exposed diagram of how this engine works somewhere please?
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Gearbox looks lovely, and the stainless pipe with the real flanges is the bees knees, absolutely stunning.
Andy
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Is there an exposed diagram of how this engine works somewhere please?
I have the original ST drawing which I can post if you wish ?
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Gearbox looks lovely, and the stainless pipe with the real flanges is the bees knees, absolutely stunning.
Andy
Thank you, I do try for perfection but the reality is that it is very hard work. There are others on this forum whos work is my inspiration...
Remind me to check my spelling also... "seperator".... :embarrassed:
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Is there an exposed diagram of how this engine works somewhere please?
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/SUN.jpg)
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Very nice work, the engine looks great painted and polished.
But why are you using two exhaust pipes? To provide better flow?
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Very nice work, the engine looks great painted and polished.
But why are you using two exhaust pipes? To provide better flow?
Trying to reduce the backpressure on the engine to improve pumping efficiency.... Just another of my hair brained ideas... :embarrassed:
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I built this engine a number of years ago, and the Stuart Turner castings were lovely to machine. I have run it briefly on air, but never tried it on steam. I have one question. What level should the crankcase oil be? There is a screwed plug near the bottom of the main casting. Should the crankcase be filled to the point where oil would run out of this opening? I would also assume this port could be used as a drain to empty the crankcase, (assuming the engine can be tipped, and isn't permanently mounted in a horizontal position). Any recommendations will be appreciated.
Fred Lesco
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I built this engine a number of years ago, and the Stuart Turner castings were lovely to machine. I have run it briefly on air, but never tried it on steam. I have one question. What level should the crankcase oil be? There is a screwed plug near the bottom of the main casting. Should the crankcase be filled to the point where oil would run out of this opening? I would also assume this port could be used as a drain to empty the crankcase, (assuming the engine can be tipped, and isn't permanently mounted in a horizontal position). Any recommendations will be appreciated.
Fred Lesco
Fred, From what I can deduce, the oil level should just run out of the screwed in plug.... actually it's just a brass slotted screw. The bottom of the conrods pick this up & splash it all over the place.... The "Sirius" has additions to the con rods to facilitate this action.... The engine can't be drained from there as it's a level plug & 90 weight will be slow. The oil must either be syringed out or the engine tipped sideways to drain out of the two top ports (much quicker.)
Too much oil & you will lose power.... This is my assumption, however I will confirm with Stuart prior to firing her up but I'm almost positive...
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Don't forget, not only to drain (a large drain plug on the bottom plate is a good idea) but you will need to flush the engine through as well to remove any emulsified oil. :-))
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Don't forget, not only to drain (a large drain plug on the bottom plate is a good idea) but you will need to flush the engine through as well to remove any emulsified oil. :-))
:-))
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Thanks for the Diagram benjaml1.
Very interesting bevel drive arrangement to the valve gear, were they subject to wear? Is the timing adjustable?
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Thanks for the Diagram benjaml1.
Very interesting bevel drive arrangement to the valve gear, were they subject to wear? Is the timing adjustable?
As they are enclosed in the crankcase ( wet sump) they are well lubricated but wear is always possible. The timing is somewhat adjustable by setting the position of the bevels with set screws locking on both the crank & the tower shaft. It is built like a watch, I take my hat off to the machinist who made this, a better man than I even in my prime.. :-))
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Bit more pipe work, a touch of paint here & there, mount the gearbox, a few more detail fittings & I have almost completed my steam plant...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/steam.jpg)
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Looks great! But what are those wood-clad tanks for and the green one?
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The one on the left is boiler feedwater. The one on the right ( lower) is recovered condensate/oil & the green one is in fact a dummy cowling for the electric motor which runs my BFWP....
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BFWP?
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Sorry... Boiler feedwater pump...
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Isn't the feed water tank (I assume it's the one with the hatch) kind of small?
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Keith Appleton of Mainsteam Models did a wonderful job in making it for me & it was sized for the engine 2 1/2" diameter X 3 ". The boiler is oversized ( i make sure I have enough boiler) which may make it look small... I may add a hidden auxiliary in parallel if needed but I wanted the steam unit to be compact....
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Hi Ben, you are doing a great job there and may I also add that Keith is quickly getting a good reputation for the quality of his work and I highly commend the steam items he works on and sells. He is always willing to help and work directly with the customer to make sure they get the package they want to fit where they want so thumbs up to another supplier, they all help us out in trying to complete our Boats or plants etc.
Now how about a nice video link of this piece of kit running, should be good.
Well done indeed :-))
R
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I have to say this plant looks superb and that engine compared to what you started with is an amazing transformation. The one big dissapointment though with this particular engine is that you don't get to see anything going round!!
I agree that Keiths products are superb. He used to come and visit us at the Kirklees club for a while but we haven't seen him as regularly recently however I have had the pleasure of watching one of his launches steaming and it is a beautiful model.
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Keith is a true gentleman & an excellent artisan, I have nothing but praise for his work... :-)) As for things going around, there's always that slide valve mechanism to watch & of course the nodding water pump... :-)
My son in law works for Airbus & was asking me where the plans were & I said: "Inside my head"... :embarrassed:
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Your Stuart engine mod was a great plan well executed..It really looks great among the other components!!
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Benj...loverly work......but a few questions O0
a) oily water tank...I see a 90 degree isolation valve & a vertical tube riser.........& both on the top lid face {-) {-)..how will you empty the contents? :o
b) the condenser discharge line to the oily water tank and the gas supply to the boiler appear to exceed the dimensional limits of the drip tray........ {:-{ ...will this pose any problem?
It will be interesting to see the route for the lagged steam line to the engine.......... :-)) Derek
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Benj...loverly work......but a few questions O0
a) oily water tank...I see a 90 degree isolation valve & a vertical tube riser.........& both on the top lid face {-) {-)..how will you empty the contents? :o
b) the condenser discharge line to the oily water tank and the gas supply to the boiler appear to exceed the dimensional limits of the drip tray........ {:-{ ...will this pose any problem?
It will be interesting to see the route for the lagged steam line to the engine.......... :-)) Derek
I am going to attach a flexible hose ( to scale) & have it coiled up. Extraction will be started by sucking with a syringe & then the hose placed over the side of the hull to allow the contents to syphon out.
The discharge line does exceed the tray but the vessel is 15 inches wide at that point. I intend to build a scale A-frame steps over it if it becomes obtrusive. If that doesn't look right I'll use sweat elbows to shorten the route.. It will actually be below the scale walk area/ platform as the unit sits very low in the hull....
Thanks for the nice comments all.... :-))
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It will be interesting to see the route for the lagged steam line to the engine.......... :-)) Derek
:-)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/0003-1.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2144.jpg)
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I have to say I do think flanged connections look absolutely superb.
Wonderful job
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Thank you, it should be completed within a fortnight & then I begin testing. That completed, sea trials... Just in time for spring.. :-))
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I agree with Bunkerbarge. :-)) :-))
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Thank you, I think they add authenticity....
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Going to fire her up next week for the first steam trials, any tips ?? Never done this before.... :embarrassed:
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Try not to get your fingers burned ok2
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Dont look down the chimney when you light up - you will lose your eyebrows! %%
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Good advise, any more.... :-))
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Remember that Butane/propane are heavier than air and will collect in hulls and low spots. It does burn faster than Alcohol, but if collected in a cabin will expand the walls suddenly.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Thanks for that, these are just steam trials on my patio table... As soon as I'm happy I will progress to sea trials... :-))
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How did the trial go?
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Waiting for a sunny day & a few more little bits, should be ready to go by next week if the weather holds & postie delivers.... :-))
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There always seems more to do ( details details) but I'm about 1 week of work away. I'm aiming for May open day at Cheddar Steam Club... Going to have to design an ergonomic method of launching this 1/6th scale 50 Lb monster... Waiting to test the power unit as soon as it warms up a bit...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2156.jpg)
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Looks GREAT :-)) :-))...More photos of the launch..Please..inside to........
Regards Bernhard
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Not quite ready for detail pics Bernhard, a week or two & I'll be there. I'm just going with the basics this year & add detail over the years. I have your superb models to aspire to... :-))
OK...... Rudimentary wheelhouse, need much more detail & aging... throttle servo is to be mounted inside....
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/boat.jpg)
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That's some seriously smart woodwork on that
pulpit soory wheelhouse :-))
It's nice to get to work on something this big once in a while- i'm expecting this to roll on and on as you pick up little bits for it here and there.
If you get stuck for bits don't forget we're all here to help.
First thing I suggest- some nice scale rope and deck fittings- Miskin Models and Marten Howes & Bayliss are the people to try respectively- that's who I found to be the best anyway.
Keep us informed with how it's going.
Greg
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Thanks for the info, I'm struggling to get 1/6 scale items although I have some lovely brass handrails & bollards to fit. Also bought compasses, yes real working compasses at about 1/6 scale from Hong Kong. Bought a batch of 12 so if anyone would on the forum would like one, they're here for shipping costs only....Orrr see you at Cheddar... :-))
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Thanks for the info, I'm struggling to get 1/6 scale items although I have some lovely brass handrails & bollards to fit. Also bought compasses, yes real working compasses at about 1/6 scale from Hong Kong. Bought a batch of 12 so if anyone would on the forum would like one, they're here for shipping costs only....Orrr see you at Cheddar... :-))
Can you post dimensions and photos of the Compasses?
Regards,
Gerald.
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Can you post dimensions and photos of the Compasses?
Regards,
Gerald.
I'll go one better, they do all sizes from 20mm to 13mm..... You'll never get lost on the lake :-))
http://cgi.ebay.com/20mm-Small-Mini-Compass-Kompass-x-12-pc-Luggage-Bag_W0QQitemZ260583547650QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3cabfd6302 (http://cgi.ebay.com/20mm-Small-Mini-Compass-Kompass-x-12-pc-Luggage-Bag_W0QQitemZ260583547650QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3cabfd6302)
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Thanks
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hi here is one in 9mm
http://cgi.ebay.com/Miniature-Compass-less-than-3-8-diameter_W0QQitemZ180492427226QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a062fdfda
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hi.........here is one in 9mm
http://cgi.ebay.com/Miniature-Compass-less-than-3-8-diameter_W0QQitemZ180492427226QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2a062fdfda
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Wow, is this the smallest available?
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I think this is only my second post in this section.
First was to Bernhard's wonderful boats,but i think this engine looks great.
I do not know the first thing about the running a steam engine or different types,but i must congratulate you guy who make these fantastic pieces of engineering.
I love looking at your work,am very envious.
Mark
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Bernhards work is to what I humbly aspire to....
I have learned many things on this forum but the one thing that echos through my mind is that Rome wasn't built in a day... I have been at this project since late of last year. Every day I accomplish "something" but always have in mind the next stage. Sometimes things haven't worked out as I had planned & I had to re-step & make changes. Lots of "I"s in all of this but in reality I have used this superb resource of peoples & knowledge. In other words this project is not just mine but yours too... :-))
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First test today....
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010878.flv (http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010878.flv)
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A closer view of the engine....
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010879.flv (http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/?action=view¤t=P1010879.flv)
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Beautiful work! Looks like you need to do a bit more running in though. Really can't wait to see this on the water- it should shift too with that engine and hull combo'.
Greg
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Thanks, Yes she's still a bit tight but I'm pleased so far..... :-))
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First Class..looks great :-)).....Bot is the gastank big enof?.........
Regards Bernhard
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200 ml Berhard the largest standard Maccsteam makes ...
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ok..tip top....bot it just look smaller in the photo.......................
Bernhard
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Topics merged. :-)
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Thank you... :-))
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Just wondering benjaml1 ...putting ones fingers on the coupling between the engine & the reversing box looks lethal <*< ....is it necessary to do this to start or was it just a commissioning glitch?
Some brass flymesh could make a scale guard....... O0 ....Derek
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Indeed, I am going to fit a coupling guard. I should have started it on the flywheel, just being lazy as I only had a few pounds of steam.... :embarrassed:
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Have you got any detail of how you constructed the gear box case please
Peter
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Have you got any detail of how you constructed the gear box case please
Peter
I just fabricated brass around a HPI Racing "Savage" reverse module number 87032 that I bought on e-bay. I'm afraid I draw on metal not paper as the design was in my head... :embarrassed: Third channel allows me to select forward neutral & reverse, the reverse seems to be be a reduced ratio...
I had to cut the extended shaft off & manufacture a coupling to accept the drive & that was about it...
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OK I did not think you milled it out of the solid but could see no Join lines, I have used one before and am about to again and your casing looks much better than the black plastic, I am thinking of a way to use the Gizmo's that comes with it to give me forward reverse in another boat the same a the old Cheddar unit did with two channels and a Gemini
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Silver solder & then profile with a belt sander & that leaves no lines, just like wood..... Join, plane & sand..... I think you can use 2 channels with a mixer but that is beyond my expertise I'm afraid...
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Changed a few things as it looked too "woody".....Few more details & it will be good for this year. Next winter, more internal detailing....
This has a cavernous deep keel which I filled & grouted with lead shot to overcome the possibility of rolling caused by the high C/G coffee pot boiler...
The green is closer to GWR livery, not as "bright as seen here...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2165.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2163.jpg)
"Artists impression" of the final paint/colour scheme. The green here is closer to actuality...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2161.jpg)
My pump on/off/ duration components...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2169.jpg)
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Can't wait to see it on the water.
Nice work :-))
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I'm aiming for open day in May at Cheddar if not before.... :-))
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hi........thats a great boat.. :-)).......bot i better like it ,with the old wood look before .. :(( maby just with the lower part paintet?........
Regards Bernhard
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hi........thats a great boat.. :-)).......bot i better like it ,with the old wood look before .. :(( maby just with the lower part paintet?........
Regards Bernhard
There's no pleasing some people :}
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hi........thats a great boat.. :-)).......bot i better like it ,with the old wood look before .. :(( maby just with the lower part paintet?........
Regards Bernhard
I too struggled with the thought Bernhard. The problem was the " wood" finish to the hull was a little unstable ( it was coming off in places) . Orion moldings kindly sent me a match to touch up or would have gladly repainted it for me free of charge. I had trouble matching & indeed the finish would have needed a total repaint. That meant me sending it back/shipping etc. with all of those hassles, I too am disappointed . The truth is also there was too much wood with little highlights. You have achieved the weathering of wood & materials to the level of an art form, I will one day attempt to come close. Today, I will have her outfitted as a pristine steam launch, who knows what tomorrow holds... :-))
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Hey Oh OK..so do i better understand it,,,i like the green color,,look good ,,,When i did try to make the Wood look on the River Queen, i used, the Braun color fore leather..and so 3 times with the good old floor lack...works real fine
Regards Bernhard
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Thanks Bernhard, that does look very nice indeed... :-))
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After my visit to Cheddar Steam Club I decided I would also like the option of using disposable gas canisters. This now allows me to use the fixed tank or the canisters. Also up front is an auxilliary water tank that doubles my boiler feedwater capacity.. Took me all morning to make that cover ( by hand, I don't have machine tools) & it's a lot shinier than the pic shown... I now have blisters... :embarrassed:
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2173.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2174.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2175.jpg)
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Great ide,,,,,,,,,,looks good to :-))
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Hi Benj,
I have a sSun and a Star, or that's what they are supposed to be.
I foolishly stripped them both to pain, and refurbish, and, in the process, lost the timing.
Has anyone got any ideas of where I would get the info to "put things right"?
As an aside, I bought a 5" Test Boiler about a year or so ago. I finally got around to "giving it a run". I noticed at the end of the run, that the main steam supply globe valve had turned on the boiler about 30°. I thought that was more than odd, as it started off being "nice and square". On closer inspection, I noticed this dreaded lead colour at the base of the valve. I got some soft jawed pliers and gave it a little "tweak". Yep, it fell off in my hand.
Some potential murderer had soft soldered the valve into place.
That was a waste of £850 it seems. I'm not game to fire it again.
Cheers to all.
Neil
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Neil..... >>:-( all cannot be lost...post a few 'jpgs........if I can visualise the main steam isolation valve has been soft soldered into the boiler bushing [1/4"x 40 or 1/4"x 32 tapping]
OK.......remove it ....lap the boiler bushing....install a new the steam isolation valve as the temperature of even soft soldering would have exceeded the 205 degrees C limit for the VITON o-ring
If you have the time or resources....you could fully strip the isolation valve & renew the valve seal o-ring & clean the threadform....[by die-nut] ..& recommission the boiler with fibre or annealed copper washers sealing the isolation valve
Naturally check all other boiler bushings & plugs for signs of leakage as you increase temperature/pressure whilst observing the appropriate safety standards ....etc
All is not lost.....Derek
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Here is the timing diagram....No 1 piston at TDC with the eccentric drive at 110 degrees. Dial in with correct rotation to make sure you remove all backlash.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/Suntiming.jpg)
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Was it the valve or the valve bushing soft soldered Neil??
Regards Ian.
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Finished (for now,) time to sail....Where is that sunshine ?...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2178.jpg)
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That is going to turn a few heads at Cheddar.
Nice work.
Neil
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Thanks Neil, my first attempt at steam. If it wasn't for the guidance of the members of this forum I couldn't have done it..... :-))
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That's fantastic.
I envy people with that kind of patience (which I have dray loads of), but the talent is the ingredient that matters most.
If someone could tell me how to time these engines, I will be very grateful. I have a couple of the Stuart Boat Engines, this one, and a Star, but the names are open to conjecture, neither look anything like these examples, in regard to the finish.
I think, in my case, I should buy "factory made".
Nick is a name ringing in my ears right now.
Cheers.
Neil.
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Neil, If you see my pevious post I have posted a timing diagram. I would "guess" the Star & the Sirius would have the same timing.... As for patience, I am retired & it has been a long winter.. Still here as far as I'm concerned... {:-{
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Most impressed with your ST sun driven boat, you must have put in a few thousand hours in building the set up.
I note from your pictures and descriptions that you have an electric feedwater pump under electronic control.
Any chance you would explain the principles of the electronic control?
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Basically two timer relays. You can get dual function relays but they are harder to find & more expensive. Sadly I do everything in my head & do not put things down on paper ( like a circuit diagram.) However, when one timer times out it starts the other, when that times out it starts the first. That way you can alter the duration the pump is on & also the frequency of cycles. IE Pump on for 1 minute, delay of 30 seconds, both being independant & configurable. Later I propose a smarter circuit with boiler level being the control factor...
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Thanks for explaining how your electronic control works, inactual fact it is simplicity its self. Should you want to initiate pumping from the boiler itself I have a couple of systems which can do this by either sensing the boiler water level using a probe which screws into a suitable spare bush or the other way is to "look" at the water level in the gauge glass a la Cheddar models method.
Unfortunately both systems have come to a grinding halt as they are both based on programmable chips (PIC) and the club member who did the programming for me died late last year. I have tried to teach myself to do the programming myself but to no avail. I have yet to find some one to help.
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I did digital IC logic years ago with chip programming ( burning in.) Analogue is a bit more complex. The primary measuring device is critical, even full sized boilers have mechanical fail safe devices in the event of high & low water. In reality, boiler level control in model boilers is more difficult as you have limited instrumentation for the job...
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My Dear Aunt Maude left me a small gift in her will, which went towards my boiler. I named the boat today in her honor... Anyone else out there like their name on my next boat ?.. ok2
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b136/benjaml1/DSC_2183.jpg)