Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: boatmadman on February 23, 2010, 09:30:38 pm
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Towards the end of last year I treated myself to a small milling machine - a Seig x2 with dro, and power feed.
Then I thought, what to do with it?
So, I set to on a steam engine build, plans of which came from the paddleducks website by Bogstandard, who used to use this forum.
Now, he recommended making a spare for every component, but, I am hoping for a 50% success rate in this project, so I am building two engines alongside each other.
The pics show the story, it all started as a lump of cast iron turned into 2 cylinder blocks, then some brass bar made the cylinder caps, pistons and bottom glands. Then some more bar was hacked and chiselled into crossheads.
Slow progress, but so what!!
Having done the crossheads I now must get back to the Orca build for a while :}
Ian
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Great pictures to follow the build process Ian, many thanks for taking the time to share them with us. Don't spend too liong with the Orca, I want to see this progress!
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I was "that" close to buying a Seig x2, tough to machine it by hand but then all I have is time... A pillar drill, hand tools & a belt sander is all I have.. :embarrassed:
Nice work indeed.... :-))
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Make a spare for every component? - I'd be ashamed to say how many of those crossheads I made before I was satisfied but I still didn't have any spares left over. :((
Barry M
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Nice project! Are you going to keep those massive cylinder blocks in their present rectangular shape?? You might want to machine off some of the surplus material around the contour of the cylinders, if possible. It should make a lighter and more interesting looking engine
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Kno 3
The engine design doesnt allow for that. There is a valve block to go on each end.
Ian
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I know that, I was thinking about the sides and the area between the cylinders.
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I have in mind machining a rectangular slot with a ball end tool on each of the side faces to make it look better.
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That sounds good, have fun with your project!
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I got a day in the workshop today, so thought some steam engine work was in order.
I started out with a length of bronze as you see in the first picture, and after several hours of hacking, sawing, swearing, filing and drinking coffee, I ended up with the items in the second picture. These are the bearings for the engines, they are not quite finished yet, they need a cosmetic cut just to make them prettier.
Ian
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I found this with the new D10 bearings I redesigned- they look so simple- but are a complete nightmare to manufacture!! Well done with your progress.
See PM...
Greg
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The parts are really looking great Ian.
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I gave the bearings a nice cosmetic cut today, the first pic shows them with a set of crank web blanks.
The second pic shows one set of ten webs almost finished.
Ian
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There is something about precision that is attractive to the eye. Perfect symmetry I think.... :-))
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So, this morning I went out to the workshop thinking to have a practise with my shiny new slitting saw, ready to do a cut on the crankwebs.
Not to be! I mounted the arbor and saw, ran it up to the test piece only to find it wasn't running true. Investigations found that the R8 arbor had been machined too long at the top, preventing the taper from engaging properly. >>:-(
So, a call to the supplier and a replacement is on its way.
Meantime, I decided to have a go at the cylinder base and crank base plate.
The picture shows the results.
Ian
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I always admire machining displays like this-- good crisp work
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Nice clean work Ian. :-))
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My fave metal to work with is brass.... :-))
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Ian,
It seems to me that whatever you put your hand to turns out flawless! I go into raptures looking at the pointing in your workshop, did you do that too? I hope this project doesn't mean the Bourbon Orca has been abandoned.
Mike
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Mike,
Flawless? I hate to say it, but camera's lie - there are flaws, just not shown in the pics! :}
No I didnt do the pointing in my workshop - a builder did that wall for me a couple of months ago, split the garage into a 1 car garage and a workshop - much better and warmer in the winter.
No, the Orca build hasn't been abandoned, just havent had anything interesting or helpful to post for a little while - prop shafts are next to go in.
Ian
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The replacement arbor turned up today, hows that for service? Chronos is the company involved.
So, off to the workshop tonight to finish the crankwebs. First the slit was cut in each web, then holes for the locking screw were drilled and tapped in each web, then, finally, dry assembled, and guess what ---- it rotates :-)) (still needs a little fettling yet though)
Have to admit to being somewhat chuffed, as this is the first time I have attempted anything like this.
Anyway, here are pics, sorry a bit blurred.
Ian
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I need a tissue... :embarrassed:
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Between you and Nick I am going to have to get a waterproof keyboard.
Regards
Gerald.
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Absolutely beautiful work! The surface finishes look great. There's nothing better looking than precision made parts. :-))
Man you work fast too. Want a job in California? O0
Have you thought about building these engines into a twin engine steam plant for a tug?
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Well, thanks for the comments fella's.
Nick - when do I start?
The finish you see is a machine finish, the parts need polishing yet. The base plate needs a little more taking off for the web throws - todays first job.
The mill I bought came with a DRO, without it I doubt I would have even taken on this project, it makes things really easy and repeatable. When I was doing the base plates, I dyed up the plates and marked out in the conventional way. Then centre punched all the drillings on the first plate then went ahead and machined it.
For the second plate I took a datum point, and used the DRO to locate the drilling points - so much easier once you have the confidence to go that way.
I have the very same thought of a twin steam plant in the brain cell, but, we will have to see if both engines work first. Remember, I am hoping for a 50% success rate for my first big machining project. :}
Ian
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Well, I spent the morning fiddling, fettling and polishing, and now I have one crank complete, except for eccentrics, and it even rotates! Need a little bedding in, but it will be ok.
Ian
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Great thread... Thanks for the updates... :-))
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Don't yer just hate it when yer lathe bits don't spin true! <*< >>:-( :((
My 1930's lathe has just this problem with its 10" dia 3 jaw chuck
The snag is that a new chuck will cost me more than the whole lathe cost! Grrr O0 {-)
But I forgive the old girl as she was part of the effort to win the last war!
Excellent work there Boatmadman, I'm just too envious! :} :-))
Just what us armatures need %) for guidance on the path to excellence O0
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And then there were two. :o
(only loose assembled at the moment)
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great looking pictures of what i am sure will be a great looking engine did not know you were making more than one ,maybe its fore me is it! regards allan
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Today I made the con rods, top end pins, crosshead guides and one set of stands.
I then drilled and tapped one block for the glands and engine plate and assembled the lot.
The pics show the current status of one top half, waiting for a material delivery to get to the same position with the second engine.
So far, things look promising, both cranks rotate, and, in today's assembly, the pistons and crossheads move ok, a little stiff, but they havent been fully adjusted yet, so they should be ok. ( I hope!!)
Ian
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Ian, a beautiful job so far. Machine work looks superb. Keep it coming. Ironman
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Good stuff for sure..... :-))
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Today I made the eccentrics, well, I made 6 before I had 4 useable! Must check my dimensions more often!
Ian
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Coming along well Ian, don't worry I end up with a bin full of rejects (why do I keep them ?) before I get to one I'm happy with.
Yup I should go to specsavers
:-))
Keep up the fine work
(isn't a milling machine a great piece of kit)
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the mill is the best toy I have bought for ages!
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And then there were two :-))
Closely followed by steam chests, not quite finished, waiting for a 2mm slot drill and 6mm machine reamer to arrive.
Ian
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Managed to finish the steam chests, then went on to make the steam spindle couplings, the steam chest blanks and the eccentric webs.
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Jewelry... :-))
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Every update is awesome!
Mike
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Update!
I set out to make the steam valve spools and had problems. The first one came out ok, but no2 somehow came out off centre >>:-(, as did no 3, no4, no5 and no 6. >>:-(
So, I left them for a while and tried again, this time with success, all 4 are ok, I think!
So, next job was to drill and tap the base of the steam chests to take the spool gland, first chest drilled ok, then first tap (m2) snapped in the hole grrrrr >>:-( >>:-( there is no way that is coming out, or so I thought. Then I found out that taps can be dissolved without harm to brass using a solution of aluminium potassium sulphate (alum), now awaiting delivery of the magic powder, I will update on results later.
I then thought I would do a simple job, so made the flanges for connection to the steam chests.
Having succeeded with those, I thought I would tackle the steam control valves next, that went well, although time consuming getting them right.
Ian
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Then I found out that taps can be dissolved without harm to brass using a solution of aluminium potassium sulphate (alum)
I learn something new every day... Thanks. :-))
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Ian,
The parts are really looking awesome. Top quality work.
Thanks for mentioning the magic powder. I've never heard of using that stuff to remove broken taps from brass before and can't count how many times it would have come in handy. Please let us know how well the stuff works when you get a chance to try it.
Have you ever tried using high helix fluted taps before? They work great for pulling the chips out of the hole, reducing the chance of breaking taps. In the past I was always unsure of trying them myself until recently when I had a part I was making and kept snapping taps, one right after another. The hole that I was tapping was a blind hole and I was using a bottoming "hand style" tap. The chips that were getting stuck in the bottom of the hole were causing the tap to snag and almost immediately leading to breakage. Once I made the switch to helix fluted taps I haven't broken once since. And yes I just knocked on wood after writing that. O0
Nick
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Nick,
I broke the tap when it passed across a previously drilled hole. Since then I have gone for tin coated taps, here: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Cutting-Tools/Taps
Although you need to use all 3 taps in sequence, I find them very good with no snatching.
Next time I need to buy any, I will try the high helix fluted type.
Thanks
Ian
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Ian,
I think you may have to be patient with the alum treatment. I came across it as an old watchmaker/watchrepairer's trick for removing steel winding stems from brass/stainless steel crown wheels. It is just a corrosive process and the amount of steel involved and access to the surface is very different compared with that of a jammed tap. I would brush the exposed surface of the broken tap as often as possible. Having said that, bearing in mind the amount of time and effort you have put into the piece, I think it's well worth the try. As Nick says, let us know how well it works, we are all waiting with bated breath!
Mike
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Mike,
I was told it could take a few days to dissolve, a little gentle heat being helpful as is agitation. Also, every so often try and pick out softened surfaces to expose new steel.
Ian
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Just beaten me to the agitation and heat Ian. Another way, if you've access to it or want to make a miniature version is spark errosion. Commercial erroders are available, but one can be made using a sparking circuit(Battery powered NOT mains).
Another thing to be aware of Ian is the "Bling" factor. Highly buffed surfaces are not necesserely flat and while you may be using a gasket to seal things like the valve chest or cylinder caps to the block, a matt flat surface is better.
Regards Ian.
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Ian,
More details on the spark erosion would be appreciated if you have them, please.
Regarding the 'bling' factor and sealing surfaces, my pics dont show it, but the mating surfaces that require sealing have all been flatted on a glass plate with wet and dry and left matt for the very reasons you stated. Only external and visible faces have been 'blinged'.
Ian
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Didn't think Boggy would have let you ruin "Sealing" surfaces {-)
The erroder is basically like an electric bell circuit. If you look at the contact area in a mechanical as opposed to an electronic bell, to get the best most reliable ringing, you adjusted a screw on a make and break circuit which showed an electrical arc between the "Points". By using the broken tap in the brass block as one side of the "points" and the coil and battery as the other side, the arc, together with Parraffin as a flushing agent, "Disintegrates" the broken tap. As its doing it, you have to keep feeding the power side into it, but you can set this up as a gravity fed operation and do summat else while this is going on.
I'll bet PMK's mates can make a small electronic version of this.
Regards Ian
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Ian,
Thanks for that. However, I dont think I could make that work in this case, as the tap is broken deep within the hole, there is no where I could make an electrical connection to it.
If the magic powder doesn't work, I think I will just have to make a new steam chest.
Ian
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The Brass/Bronze body is electrically conductive Ian O0
Regards Ian, Ian.
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Today I thought I would have a go at some steam pipe and silver solder.
Not having done much ss before, I decided to do some practise items first. The first pic shows a flange blank ss’d to a short length of copper pipe and cut in half. As I wanted to be sure to get full penetration (ooeeerrr), I cut the item in half to have a look.
Success, it appears to have gone all the way through!
I then cut 2 more blanks and had a go at soldering from the pipe end, pic 2 shows the result, not so good, think again.
I then turned a flange with a spigot for the pipe to sit in with the idea of putting a ring of ss in the bottom of the spigot, apply heat and let it do its job, but, the pcd of the bolt holes is too small to let me do this with the design requirement of 4mm pipe, so, think again!
I then soldered blank flanges onto a length of pipe from the open end of the flange, filed back to near flat and finished on a flat plate – success, pics 3 and 4 show the results, with some added bling!
Next I needed to work out a way of getting 4 bits of pipe the same. Pic 5 shows a flange positioned 20mm or so from the end of the pipe., with flux and ready to solder.
Pic 6 sees that pipe in the tube bender, using the flange to locate for length, and pic 7 shows the pipe after bending.
Pics 7 and 8 show the finished and polished pipes. These will need to be cut to length to fit into the control block at a later stage.
Overall, I am happy with the results, they aren’t as good as some I have seen, but they’ll do!
Ian
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I was sent by my company all over the world to bend copper & S/S tubing ( amongst other things.) Nice job.... :-))
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I was sent by my company all over the world to bend copper & S/S tubing ( amongst other things.) Nice job.... :-))
What,like finding a skyhook, going for a bucket of holes for fittings, a long stand etc etc. ;D
Forgive my sarcasm, but where and why did your company send someone allover the world to do something that a lot of people can do?
Greg
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Installing fluid applicators in Morogoro Tanzania, Tepic Mexico, Harare Zimbabwe & Simcoe Canada to name but a few.... If you have been to Morogoro, you wouldn't be asking that question.. ok2
There are people working for Bechtel doing just that, running stainless & copper tubing going all over the world. They have it down to an art form... Big world out there.. :-))
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Although some learned sources may decry its use, a mate is having total success using the Silver Solder paste supplied in syringes. The paste contains the flux so you don't have to blather Borax or whatever allover. The question that arises is that once opened, the life of the product is limited but the suppliers have been demonstrating the same tube for more than two years. Just replace the cap after use and ensure no airspace at the nozzle end.
http://www.cupalloys.co.uk/842-silver-solder-paste-i96.html
I have NO affiliation with the above company but know of at least one ecstatic user.
Regards Ian.
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Installing fluid applicators in Morogoro Tanzania, Tepic Mexico, Harare Zimbabwe & Simcoe Canada to name but a few.... If you have been to Morogoro, you wouldn't be asking that question.. ok2...
Wow, that is some place to work, you there recently???
Greg
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No about 10 years ago, We stayed in a company house more or less overlooking Robert Mugabe's palace, well actually didn't see much except armed guards & walls... This was just before he started kicking the white settlers off their farms to pay for the pensions of the war veterans. It all started going t!ts up so we later dissassembled the equipment in 2 large factories & them shipped to Mozambique, all clandestined, right under their noses...
Wonderful people & country sadly ruined by a madman...
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Isnt Mayhem wonderful!
A great experience mate, I'm glad you got out unscathed.
Greg
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Thanks, Great site but we need to let boatmadman get on with his superb thread .. :-))
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Any news on the broken tap?
Mike
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The steam chest has been soaking in a saturated solution of magic powder for a few days now, when I try and scrape the broken tap with a small drill by hand, there is a metallic residue on the end of the drill, so I think its doing something, but its very slow.
Ian
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Thanks Ian.
Patience is a virtue
possess it if you can.
Seldom found in woman,
Never in a man!
Mike
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Ian,
Your project is really looking great! You got me hooked on it. Have you made any further progress. I need to get my fix! O0
Nick
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A little, yes, but forgot the camera!
I made up the steam connections to the control block, needed a jig to get the alignment right.
Then started assembling engine no1. Its taking a bit of fettling but its getting there, I will get some pics tonight or tomorrow.
Ian
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here we have engine no. 1 mostly assembled and timed. Just needs the blank plates fitting to the steam chests, the cylinder covers bolting on and the steam control block fitting.
It turns with two fingers on the flywheel, its just a little tight, but I hope it will improve with running in.
Now I have to wait for more copper pipe for the inlet/outlet connections.
Then I will have to beg steal or borrow a compressor!
Ian
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Ian.......don't worry about the compressor :embarrassed: ...I think there will be enough HUFFING & PUFFING from Mayhem members world wide to rotate the engine for you...it looks :-))
What type of piston seals [o-rings] did you choose?....Viton or Silicone? & I assume the gland seals are Viton....but how about the cylinder cover gaskets?
All very interesting for steam lovers......... O0 Derek
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There are no seals in the engine yet, but viton o rings will be used, and hylomar for the gaskets.
Ian
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Ian,
A joy to behold! Can't wait to see it working.
Mike
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This is getting exciting... :-))
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Hi Ian,
I have a boiler (and engine) at the moment that I am remedying for them- if you want to bring the engine round you can hook it up to steam if you want?
A second opinion on trhe engine may be welcome too!!!
Greg
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Greg,
Thanks for the offer, but its not quite ready for that, I need pipework for the inlet and exhaust yet.
All being well, I will be on Brown How with my 1:1 build tomorrow afternoon, and possibly in the Royal Oak for a bite later.
I would be happy to look at your engine, not that I am an expert though! %%
Ian
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Hey hey, getting out the spinnaker are we, it's been good sailing weather past few days- got a feeling it might be wet tomorrow- hope not though.
You'll have to pop in and see us on your way home/to pub or both. I was talking to (just to digress your thread even more! %) ) David(?) Jakes at the Festival of the Sea last weekend, he was very interested in my Picket Boat, i'm busy most sunday mornings however so I don't get down to Barrow Park, so at least you'll be able to see it.
Greg
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spinnaker? lol, no, its a standing lug rig!
I know Dave Jacques very well, he builds some fantastic subs, one of which is an 8ft A class model!
If you see a silver Audi towing a white clinker dinghy pass by, thats us!
Ian
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While driving your, no doubt, immaculate silver audi, if you pass a beat up red audi a few houses up from the royal oak that's us- No.4.
Happy sailing, I will digress your thread no more. See you tomorrow hopefully.
Greg
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It runs!!!! :} :}
First vid clip shows it at 28psi, the second at about 35.
Ian
(a happy boatmadman)
http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff219/boatmadman/no%201%20engine%20first%20run/?action=view¤t=MVI_1512.mp4
http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff219/boatmadman/no%201%20engine%20first%20run/?action=view¤t=MVI_1511-1.mp4
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Only a "happy boatmadman"! I would have thought you'd be ecstatic. Well done!
To a simple soul like me, it's tempting to wonder if you've got the videos the wrong way round!
Mike
P.S. I bet Ginny's pleased too!
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Fine work there, congratulations ... :-))
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please tell me your joking Corposant, if I knew the refresh rate of the camera used I could give you an almost exact RPM of the engine.
the joys of GCSE Science and Media Studies {-)
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Drkomen86
20 frames/sec
Ian
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Drkomen86,
I stand corrected - well I did say I am a simple soul! Refresh rates never entered my head when admiring Ian's handiwork!
Mike
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I would say between 2400-2500 Rpm (if my maths is correct)
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Blimey, thats fast! Its not intended for a planing hull!!
It'll go into self destruct at that speed.
Must keep the speed down, 500revs or so is the target.
Ian
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Take note of what "Bogs" said on the "Other" forum Ian. The Collonials on the Tea party side of the pond seem to think that running Steam engines at 10,000 revs is the norm. Some are designed to run at that speed, but not a Launch type engine. run it in and go for 10PSI like the man said.
Looks good, congrats, don't forget the displacement lurbicator.
Regards Ian.
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Circlip........I have not read the alternate posting........but if Bogs :-)) has commented & reading the speeds involved on a steam issue ...he [bogs] would get my vote for correctness O0 O0 O0 Derek
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I have been getting advice and help along the way from Bogs - the target speed was always in the 500 revs area.
I havent forgotten the lubricator(s), they will appear in due course, as will the oil separator. But for now, I am happy watching the engine run %%.
Next step is to get engine no. 2 running.
Thanks for the comments fella's
Ian
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"get engine no,2 running"! Does this mean you've got the broken tap out?
Mike
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Mike,
No, not yet, its still soaking in magic powder solution, but there are signs of action, I'll do as much as I can then have a go at the tap. if it fails, I will have to make a new steam chest.
Ian
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Ive redone all the maths and its looking like about 1800 Rpm so will dig out my old text books and check it :-))
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So, now the big question Ian, what are you going to do with them?
Greg
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Thats a good question Greg.
They are destined for a boat, and, because of the size of them, I think its going to have be an older style steam tug.
The only reservation I have about that is that all the machinery will be hidden away, which would be a bit of a shame.
I cant think of anything that would have the engines exposed that would be big enough.
Then there is the thought about size, I dont really want to have a anything over about 3ft long so as to keep it manageable.
Its a bit of a puzzle really, if any one has any ideas, suggestions, please feel free to post them.
Build of a boat for them is a while off yet, as I have the Orca to finish, then an open launch for a wobbler plant I have sitting on the shelf to do first.
I may build the plant into a working display model in the meantime.
Ian
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Update on magic powder and broken taps-- It works!
The offending item has now been dissolved out of the mounting hole which means I dont have to re make the part. There is still some in the tapped hole, but thats not an issue as I think I can rotate the gland by 45 deg .
It took a while,(about a month), but it didnt hold me up as I was working on the other engine.
Ian
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Gnus... :-))
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Ian,
Brilliant news! We've all been waiting with bated breath!
Was there any etching of the brass?
Mike
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Update on magic powder and broken taps-- It works!
The offending item has now been dissolved out of the mounting hole which means I dont have to re make the part. There is still some in the tapped hole, but thats not an issue as I think I can rotate the gland by 45 deg .
It took a while,(about a month), but it didnt hold me up as I was working on the other engine.
Ian
For those who like me could not remember what the "Magic Powder" was I looked back and on June 9/10 Ian posted
"So, next job was to drill and tap the base of the steam chests to take the spool gland, first chest drilled ok, then first tap (m2) snapped in the hole grrrrr there is no way that is coming out, or so I thought. Then I found out that taps can be dissolved without harm to brass using a solution of aluminium potassium sulphate (alum), now awaiting delivery of the magic powder, I will update on results later."
Glad to know it works. I will have to make a note of it as other than mechanical means the only other way I knew of was EDM.
Regards,
Gerald.
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Nice work on the engines and having built a couple of my own one a twin cylinder oscillating and a twin cyl slide valve,i/2 in bore and 3/4 in stroke, I have often wondered if a longer stroke would benefit as it seems to me that the steam must have some time to expand and seems to me the longer stroke would allow more efficient use of the steam rather than just blow it up the funnel.
I am no engineer and have virtually no knowledge of steam expansion so maybe you guys can come up with some answers to my query as i do intend to build another engine in the near future looks like the bug has bitten
John
(http://s3.postimage.org/mMpVS.jpg) (http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=PqmMpVS)
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Mike,
The brass came out unmarked, just a quick wipe over and it was back to bright and shiny!
John,
I can recommend the plans I have used, they are aimed at people with limited machining experience and all the steps are clearly explained, along with pictures and diagrams.
ian
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Thats a good question Greg.
They are destined for a boat, and, because of the size of them, I think its going to have be an older style steam tug.
The only reservation I have about that is that all the machinery will be hidden away, which would be a bit of a shame.
I cant think of anything that would have the engines exposed that would be big enough.
Then there is the thought about size, I dont really want to have a anything over about 3ft long so as to keep it manageable.
Its a bit of a puzzle really, if any one has any ideas, suggestions, please feel free to post them.
Build of a boat for them is a while off yet, as I have the Orca to finish, then an open launch for a wobbler plant I have sitting on the shelf to do first.
I may build the plant into a working display model in the meantime.
Ian
Could you do a wide beamed short launch- maybe something along the lines of a 1:7 Frolic 21? This would give a beam of about 9" off the top of my head, or you could go even smaller- the smallest boat in the SBA is HotPot- a 10ft dinghy with a small VFT boiler and little single cylinder- you could do a 1:3 model of that- lots of scope for detail?
The first pic is Hot Pot, the next two are Lady Elizabeth, one of the nicest fitted out Frolic 21's in the SBA.
Greg
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Some nice ideas there Greg, thanks.
When I started on this project, I was working with the hope of 50% success rate, hence two engines. The intent was to make the mistakes on No.1 and end up with one good one plus some spare parts.
Well, today I spent fiddling with No.2 engine, and it also runs! In fact I think it runs a little better than No. 1
I havent posted any pics/video as they are identical. When I get them running together I will post a vid.
Ian
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Here we have both engines completed, assembled, run in on air but awaiting strip/clean before steam run.
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:-)) congrtaulations Ian ............beautiful twin work.....
But in image .1514....what do I see...??? a few turnips?......Derek
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Been on the Amber Nectar Derek? Think we call those chisel or screwdriver handles O0 :-))
Regards Ian.
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Been on the Amber Nectar Derek? Think we call those chisel or screwdriver handles O0 :-))
Regards Ian.
Ian no doubt ask for it be removed again, after everyone has read it. it's getting a bit boring
Peter
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????? Much too complicated for me to understand Peter %%
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I too am confused.com peter!
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Absolutely beautiful work! Every detail is so clean and tidy. The results of a very skilled and talented craftsman. :-))
Nick
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Well, thank you to everyone who has commented on this build, it has been much appreciated.
I have to admit, had I known how much work these have taken, I might not have started this project - ignorance is bliss!! And, I learnt loads along the way!
Ian
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Stuart No1 for your dinghy next then is it..... %)
Greg
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Ian no doubt ask for it be removed again, after everyone has read it. it's getting a bit boring
Peter
sorry it should have read" Ian He will no doubt ask for it to be removed again" Derek has made remarks in the past then when everone has read them asked for them to be removed
sorry for confusion. and disturbing such a nice build.
Peter
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:-)) congratulations Ian ............beautiful twin work.....
But in image .1514....what do I see...??? a few turnips?......Derek
Guys.......but everything in a picture is interesting O0...I see a can of BRASSO above the engine to the left...nothing amazing there
To the right of the right engine I see a tool box......& yes it has a set of black handled screw drivers
Below the screw drivers I see a blue plastic box
Below the blue plastic box I see what appear to be a few turnips
There is nothing sarcastic about this.........the engines are :-))
Just a funny place I thought to store turnips..... {-) {-) {-) Derek
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Yep its all there ;) :-)) %) {-)
But humour doesn't detract from what is a Brilliant talented Build O0 O0
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Has Derek noticed that there are fewer nuts in engine No. 2?
Mike
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the problem with Derek's supposedly funny posts is that it puts people off posting a few years ago I posted on a site for the first time and who came back , yes Derek with one off his supposed smart remarks with a list of things that where wrong with my part built model,I had already said it was mocked up to get the placement right.
Fortunately or not it did not put me off but it came close to.
Peter
sorry again for messing up a great post that really intrest me and a fantastic build
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Fewer nuts? Where? I didnt notice! %%
Unless you mean on the eccentric connecting pins? No.2 engine's pins are reversed so the nuts are inboard, its just a consequence of setting the valve timing.
Ian
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Below the screw drivers I see a blue plastic box
Below the blue plastic box I see what appear to be a few turnips
Sorry Derek, correction, file handles. {-)
Apologies other Ian, Stereovapouric engine, now they are going to take some time to keep clean, Look good now though.
Regards Ian.
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the problem with Derek's supposedly funny posts is that it puts people off posting
Peter....just a few points if I may
1. I am aware of the post you mention
2. My comments were never intended to offend
3. I am tall enough to humbly apologise here on this forum re this perceived issue & would have done so if you had raised this earlier
Derek
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Sorry Ian, I should have said "fewer nuts on show". It's just that it intrigued me while admiring your handiwork. I am, as you must realise, a complete ignoramus when it comes to steam.
Mike
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No worries Mike, Its better to show fewer nuts :-))