Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: pipster on November 03, 2014, 08:40:59 am
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Hi,
I have an intermittent problem with tamiya masking tape reacting with the paint underneath. It looks like it's leaving adhesive behind but is a reaction. This time, the paint underneath was Halfords panel spray (sprayed from the can) and had been left for a week before masking. Masking tape was removed after 24 hours of the second colour.
Has anyone else had a similar problem? Is it because I'm not leaving the base colour long enough to cure, or leaving the tape on for too long, or something else again?
Thanks
Phil
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I've recently had exactly the same problem, and I concluded that it was a combination of leaving it on for a week and maybe a slight reaction to the paint underneath, although I generally leave that for a few days to harden off and I'm pretty sure I did the same this time.
DM
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I usually leave paint to harden for a week. Mask up paint and remove the tamiya masking tape after about 30 mins.
Never had a problem.
I paint a bit of scrap at the same time and when the paint is tacky is when I remove the masking.
Be careful how you do it though. Remove the masking by pulling carefully in the direction of the tacky paint to prevent paint strings.
This works for me and is a result of failures and messes!
Ian
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Thanks chaps
Phil
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STOP using the Tamiya tape and get on Ebay or look for your nearest CAR BODY SHOP suppliers and get some FINE LINE TAPE..................far superior than the Jap stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Trust me I use it on a daily basis at work.....TOP TIP ....remove all masking within 5 mins of final coat and run your finger gently and quickly.....making sure your finger is CLEAN ...this will make the join line far flatter and looks a darned sight better.
Oh dont go using the stuff that Halfords sell as fine line tape is it Poo Poo
Ask Tug Kenny about this tip
Dave
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Also stay away WELL AWAY from pound shop masking tape
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:} :-))
We're getting there slowly Stav.
ken
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Once again, thanks chaps
Phil
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Hi, I have used tamiya tape for years, I would swear by it, bit nonplussed by the negative comments. Could be the way I use it. I will take Stavros's advice and try what he suggests, Nemesis
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I have had issues in the past with Tamiya tape...... seems to have a finite shelf life once opened. Also I do remember the adhesive reacting with a paint some time ago..... I put it down to rushing and not allowing the base coat to not fully harden
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Really surprised at the comments on here, I've just used some Tamiya tape that has been out in a cupboard in the shed for at least 10 years. . . . . . And it worked perfectly.
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Really surprised at the comments on here, I've just used some Tamiya tape that has been out in a cupboard in the shed for at least 10 years. . . . . . And it worked perfectly.
I find after the tape is a few months old that the chances of "bleeding" are increased. It's not just Tamiya tape, most of the tapes I have tried do the same thing
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Hi Stavros, could you please explain what you do with your (clean) finger when removing the tape.
Cheers, Terry
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I'll be watching the answers to this one. {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
ken
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Hi Stavros, could you please explain what you do with your (clean) finger when removing the tape.
Was expecting this one O0 {-)
Simples really....when you have removed the tape RUN your FINGER along the join in the paint quickly but with LIGHT pressure.....too slow and you will make a mess........QUICKER the better this will flat the ridge of the line down and take the harshness of it off.......DONT believe me TRY it on a scrap piece of plastic........one without flattening and the other with and tell me what the difference is !!!!!!!!!!!!
Ken Knows all about it ASK HIM
Dave
Cheers, Terry
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I think the problem here is that the tape has been left on for far too long, as Stavros says remove the tape shortly after painting, ideally as soon as the new layer is touch dry, certainly for most paints an hour is long enough and in warm conditions with car sprays 15-30 minutes will be sufficient.
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Hey Stavros, the difference is, I have now got paint on my finger!!!!
Cheers, Terry
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I have had a reaction in the paint from the masking tape .I was using fine line ,tamyia and blue masking tape . I sprayed the green deck and left a few days . masked up and removed the masking tape about after 30 hr due to a problem with spraying the white . The green deck is marked all over from the tape. I have tried T cut and that removed the most of it in a test patch but not the deeper marks .
whats best . hit with say 1800 grit wet and dry then Tcut ?
John
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John you MIGHT be VERY VERY lucky and use 2500 grit Wet dry with pleny of soapy water BUT you do run the risk of making a right pigs of it...What I would try is to buy some Farecla G3....halfords....
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/scratch-repair-paint-restorers/farecla-g3-permanent-scratch-remover-paste-150ml (http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/scratch-repair-paint-restorers/farecla-g3-permanent-scratch-remover-paste-150ml)
Use a cotton bud to do this as you can localise the area....obviously if it dont work then Wet Dry and worse case senario repaint.
Oh and THROW that tape in the bin and use proper fine line tape as I advocate ....everyone who has changed wont go back thats for sure...it is far superior to this frog tape etc...it is used in Body shops....wonder why !!!!!!!!
And also I think you MIGHT have bought the blue tape from B&Q....another candidate for the BIN m8 ALLWAYS buy the best marking tape going...3M/Tetrosil/Rhino spring to mind
Dave
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Hi Dave
I will give that a go and if that fails 2500 grit with soap and water .
I used Fine line tape for the edge and then blue tape brought from Tool Station just to cover but not to make any edge masking . They both left marks . Blue tape more than then fine line . I have used the same set of tape on the rest of the model with no problems .
I wonder if the green paint was still a bit soft after 3 days in a warm house .
thanks for the advice
John
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Er what eactly was the paint
Dave
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the white and primer was Halfords and the Green was Hycote
john
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AH HA there lies the problem I think you have answered your own question here...clue is NOT the Halfords paint but the other....right sorry to say this but having seen the problem you only have one option...rub it down and recoat with Halfords...rub it down with PLENTY of soap with 800 to 1000 wet/dry .....BUT BEFORE you do this for heavens sake try on a peice of scrap first just in case of a reaction
Dave
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Hi Dave
tried some fine wet and dry in a test patch and it work very well . paint went dull but some renovate brought the shine back up.
If i was to lacquer the decks afterwards does it matter if the green is dull ?
You mention reaction, do you mean a paint reaction ?
John
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Yes I meant Paint reaction due to incompatible materials....doesn't matter a hoot if the paint is dull after rubbing down the lacquer will bring back the shine....BUT as I said paint a piece of scrap first with the green before you put the Halfords lacquer on top of it ......just in case
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STOP using the Tamya tape and get on Ebay or look for your nearest CAR BODY SHOP suppliers and get some FINE LINE TAPE..................far superior than the Jap stuff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi Stavros, is there any particular Brand of Fine Line tape you would recommend? I just looked on ebay and got over 500 search results.
Charlie
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I have also had the same problem with Tamiya tape and now I only use 3M tape. No issues with this type and you can get a big reel of lining tape for a very reasonable price
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I use this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JTAPE-3mm-Highly-Flexible-Fine-Line-Paint-Airbrush-Masking-Tape-Heat-Resistant-/172118890059?hash=item281315d64b:g:-84AAOSwJ7RYWAPg
This
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FINE-LINE-MASKING-TAPE-5MM-X-25M-HIGH-TEMPERATURE-132c-FOR-BODYSHOP-FINELINE-/322422574648?hash=item4b11e20e38:g:fLUAAOSw9N1VwRlf
I also use this..the Rolls Royce of fine line tape
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-471-BLUE-FINE-LINE-MASKING-TAPE-12mm-x-33m-06408-/142274272109?hash=item2120351b6d:g:52gAAOSwcLxYHMSB
This I have allways got in the shed in 3mm to 12mm.....Allways use this first then overlap with Masking tape...either indassa or 3m then overlap the masking tape edge with fine line AGAIN.....If i am painting say a water line within 10 mins of being sprayed I ALLWAYS demask and I CAN NOT say this LOUD enough...with a CLEAN and I repeat a CLEAN finger lightly rub along the masked edge of the paint QUICKLY AND LIGHTLY.....WHY I hear you all ask....simples really...it will get rid of the hard edge of paint between the 2 colours.....By the time you have left it for ten mins and demasked it ,,,then is the time to do it....TRUST ME IT WORKS.......dont believe me then simply ASK Tug Kenny our moderator
Sorry for shouting but sometime you simply have to
Dave
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Yes I meant Paint reaction due to incompatible materials....doesn't matter a hoot if the paint is dull after rubbing down the lacquer will bring back the shine....BUT as I said paint a piece of scrap first with the green before you put the Halfords lacquer on top of it ......just in case
Hi Dave
I find that odd .
1 I have used both Hycoat and Halfords on the rest of the boat no problems .
2 . The green Hycoat was sprayed on top of green Hycoat . then masked off so no Halfords white could have touched it.
The only thing that touched the green was X3 different type of tape .
A big thanks for your help and advice . I hope to try and sand it down on friday night .
john
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found the cause of the problem . Halfords White primer . Been reading on Mayhem forum about other people who have use the primer and had the same problem . Seam the white primer stays soft . this cause the green to be on a soft under coat . When the green was dry and hard . the rubbing of tape to mask off the green caused the tape to in dent the green as the primer was still soft below it . It would seam there Grey primer seams fine . Wondering if Halfords have recived a bad batch .
John
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Just some pictures of my new fishing boat over sprayed with different Grey primers with no problems. I have to say white primer always seems very thin. Please note the phone number on the bottom of each tin different brand names same manufacturer. I will be using Tamiya tape for masking never had a problem I remove it straight after I have applied the paint finish. But each to there own.
Stan.
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I will be switching to grey primer from now on .
The tapes I have used are fine . White primer was the root cause of the problem .
.
John
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Some good info this thread :-))
I too am victim of Tamiya tape impression left behind.
The problem is that its not always desirable to remove the masking tape soon after. I am treating an area that needs priming, filling sanding priming again and then a clear lacquer. This requires the masking to stay in place a number of days.
The same will occur when painting bulwarks and ribs.
Any solutions?
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I tend to use a lot a masking fluid if I'm not removing it soon after painting, I have left the fluid on for months before peeling and it always comes away, I've also used Tamiya masking tape with no issues but then I remove that within an hour of painting, Tamiya stuff is not great but certainly not the worst
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What masking fluid Paul? I have a bottle of the Humbrol Maskol and their youtube video says not to leave it longer than 24 hours. Having said that I find it difficult to use out of the bottle, almost impossible to brush over a part and get complete coverage.
My wife has a bottle of Ken Downs fluid on her watercolour table ( I keep an eye on her stuff :embarrassed: ) I might give that a go next time.
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I tend to use Incredible White Mask Liquid Frisket but I have to order it from the US as I cannot find it here yet!! %% but someone did say to try PVA & water mix works just as well but I've not tried this yet so cannot confirm this is true