Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: radiojoe on July 07, 2015, 05:38:09 pm
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Hi all, this is meant to be a winter build but I thought I would get the hull and plans early as I'd heard that lead times for Fleetscale hulls can be lengthy when they are busy, but infact it only took 4 weeks, I got a call from Justin at Fleetscale last week to let me know the plans had been shipped and the hull would be shipped Monday/Tuesday, the plans came yesterday and the hull arrived this afternoon, I'd like to commend Fleetscale for their customer service and quality, the hull is a beauty all 49" of it, and at least I have plenty of time to source all the components at leasure, ,, %) well I might fit the odd bulkhead or maybe make the stand, %% %% Getting itchy fingers already.
Joe
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That is a lovely smooth hull. Better than some plastic kit hulls, especially the older flashed kits.
Go at your own pace Joe, we will be with you all the way, like a toddler clinging to your leg :D
TTFN, Ian:O)
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You didn't mention the scale! I'm winding up to a Ton Class so I'll watch with interest
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Cool, another Hunt class build to watch evolve. Must must must get around to getting one of these. Might have to get a seg of plans off of fleetscale as it would be interesting to take them onboard and compare them to the real thing.
I think the Brock is thd next to be re engined if the RN can find the money. The Ledbury is currently in 9 dock getting re engined - utter joy to work on if you find fiberglass very irritating !
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You didn't mention the scale! I'm winding up to a Ton Class so I'll watch with interest
Your right I forgot the scale it's 1:48, nice and big, I'm tending toward slightly smaller craft at larger scales these days, generally a lot easier to handle all the fittings etc. and I've found large models sail so well. :-))
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Looks like a nice build Joe :-)) Hopefully we can pace each other with our logs {-) although I feel you'll be leaving me well behind {:-{ 1/48th a nice scale to build, good scope for plenty of detail. I built 2 of billings Calypso's in 1/48th, really enjoyed them :-) The hull certainly looks a cracker. I'll follow with interest, Inspiration as they say !! Happy building Dan.
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I second that with the fleetscale quality Joe. I don't think you can get any better than their products. :-))
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1/48 Scale ? - Lovely O0 .
With you again on this one Joe :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I've made a tentative start on Brocklesby, The stand was made a few weeks ago before the holidays and today the weather has turned back to what we are used to WET so seems like winter is just about with us, I marked the waterline today and did a float test on the empty hull which sat square in the water the main reason for this test was to find the optimum position for the 12v SLA 7AH battery I had marked a position where I would like it to be sited and with the battery in place just 10mm aft of where I wanted it the hull was level with the water line and 12mm high, so that should be fine, still got a lot of materials to get but it's early days. ;)
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looking forward to this all ready :-))
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Fleet scale plans look the bees knees Joe, Are they as good as they look. Need to have a look at what they hold.
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Yes Paul very pleased with the plans, printed clean and crisp on 4 sheets, containing a lot of detail and most of the fittings, armament, winches etc. are shown off the boat, the Jacobin plans for Coventry were OK but I'd say these are better. :-))
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Thanks Joe. I am looking for plans of the Ton class mine swiper from my days in Malta GC and I think you are correct 1/48 scale whould be ok for this build. I can build her in the winter when not able to work on my monster.
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Paul, as far as I know Fleetscale don't have Ton class plans but you can get them in 1:48 from Jacobin for HMS Bronnington but of course will build any of them, she comes out around 980mm :-))
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With you all the way Joe, regardless of rain shine, explosive shards of GRP and the odd swear word carefully redesigned by Martin or Kenny :-))
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My Hobbystore do a plan of HMS Iveston at 1:48 from Dave Abbott.
https://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17092/hms-iveston-mm1452
Colin
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My Hobbystore do a plan of HMS Iveston at 1:48 from Dave Abbott.
https://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/17092/hms-iveston-mm1452
Colin
I've recently got those plans and can agree with Colin, they are top of the line! Clear and very detailed. They only miss out one detail, that's the distance between the rudders and shafts. They also show a Ton Class mine hunter configured for fisheries protection (HMS Iveston)
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I've recently got those plans and can agree with Colin, they are top of the line! Clear and very detailed. They only miss out one detail, that's the distance between the rudders and shafts. They also show a Ton Class mine hunter configured for fisheries protection (HMS Iveston)
Do they give the ship lines to make a wood hull if required.
Paul
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Do they give the ship lines to make a wood hull if required.
Paul
They gave details for plank on frame and "bread and butter" construction. With full size frame diagrams.
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Thanks for that will look around also for ton class hull and fitting in 1/48 as I have nevere worked with this scale.
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Here's a great tip for crew figures! All you need to do is change the caps
http://www.model-making.eu/products/US-NAVY-Personnel-1942.html
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Thanks for the link, that will be very useful when she's finished, it's so hard to get british navy figures in any scale, there is a lot of us building british ships you would think someone would produce them. {:-{
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Thanks for the link, that will be very useful when she's finished, it's so hard to get british navy figures in any scale, there is a lot of us building british ships you would think someone would produce them. {:-{
I concur, what figures are available in larger scales usually look as if they've been created by Baron Frankenstein. Gunthwaite figures are superb but being made in white metal means lots of top weight and of course they're only available in 1/72nd scale. Italeri's 1/35th scale crew figures are very much along the right lines but limited in use because of being 1/35th scale.
What's needed is a range of resin or injection moulded plastic figures, in a variety of scales, in the "multipose" style. There a guy on Shapeways who's going along the right lines but being custom 3D printed means they are, at the moment, relatively expensive.
http://www.shapeways.com/product/FEZD26HB8/1-35-us-navy-sailor-dungaree-set-1?li=user-profile&optionId=56307240
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yes they do look good, if he did a 1:48 set it may be worth thinking about when you consider what you've already spent on the finished model, and I'm sure the cost will come down in time, think of the cost of mobile phones 20 years ago now they give them away.
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Resin is more likely to be the best balance between intial investment and weight. Unless you can persuade a plastic manufacturer or individual that you can help sell several thousand sets of figures, plastic is too expensive a medium to consider. Pewter 1:48th scale figures should not weigh to much especially if sculpted near anatomically in proportion, unlike many wargames figures that are designed a bit chunky for handling.
Many model boaters, like model railway enthusiasts are not bothered about how good the figures look as their main interest is the ship or locomotives/layout etc; the figures just make a model look busy.
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I have to disagree, poor figures can ruin the best of models. There is so much on figure painting on the t'interweb that there really isn't an excuse for it. The worst one I ever saw was using Airfix 1/72nd scale figures on a 1/48th scale boat. It looked ridiculous and took away from the quality of the boat building. It would have been better not to use any figures at all!
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Agreed, if you can't get figures in the correct scale I think it's best not to have any, I just can't understand why royal navy figures in the popular scales in model ship building have been ignored by manufacturers. {:-{
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To be honest with Joe I think they have overlooked this as an item modelers would want and if you see all the ship in the museums they do not have figures on them so may be because of that they just have not bother to make any.
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It depends upon how you're depicting the vessel - yes, older vessels would have sailors all over the place but, with modern warships, almost all officers/ratings would be within the confines of the "citadel", apart from: Entering or leaving harbour, man overboard exercise, boarding party and the like - although you may see the occasional bunting "idoit" or lifebuoy ghost etc..
Personally, I prefer having my models crewed up. It's down to the individual owner / modeller really.
Agree with Joe on the subject of scale. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Agree wholeheartedly on the comments regarding figures..too many models look like they have just embarked passengers from Camberwick Green or Trumpton!
Architectural figures can be obtained from the German company of Preiser in 1/100. 1/50, 1/200 etc, plus most common railway scales. Expensive but will complement a model nicely.
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Prieser figures are good but can stand being repainted. Most architectural and railway figures they are moulded in white and have a little colour splodged on. If you look at people from the distance that make then appear the same size as the figures the impression is that they are darker. Undercoating in black or dark brown then adding flesh tones and/or a splash of colour to highlight gives a much realistic effect.
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although you may see the occasional bunting "idoit" or lifebuoy ghost etc..
Ray.
With reference to my last posting - my wording appears to have been moderated. May I take this opportunity to point out that the word I used was in no way meant to be derogatory, and I certainly would not have referred to these ratings as "idiots" .
For the benefit of anyone who didn't see the word I used before it was changed, I'll spell it out phonetically - should this cause any offence then I guess it can be moderated again.
So, it was bunting Tango.Oscar.Sierra.Sierra.Echo.Romeo. which is, as far as I'm aware, still in use in the service today.
See also:-
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
'Bunting "idoit"' or 'Bunts' is an informal term used in the Royal Navy (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Navy) to describe the sailors who hoist signal flags. Although dating from the period of signalling by flags (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/International_maritime_signal_flags),[1] it has survived as a general term for naval signallers.[2] Wireless operators may also be termed 'sparkers'.
Bunting (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunting_(textile)) is now a commonplace term for any small decorative flags or streamers strung on a line, but its original etymology is more specific as the worsted (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Worsted) cloth used for flags in the Navy.
The term doesn't appear in Covey Crump (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Covey_Crump), although that is a far from infallible source.[3]
Although the naval term, 'bunting "idoit"' is known across the services, and may be used as a jocular insult amongst Army signallers, its use implies that the intended is only fit for the Navy.
OK then - rant over.
...after all, this is Joe's build log. :embarrassed:
Regards,
Ray.
(ex Sparker)
Ooops ! Just did a preview - it appears that the system changes the word. What I copied from Wikipedia has changed again to "idoit" - they could have at least got the spelling right "idiot" >>:-(
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No offense/offence taken by this old Signalman!
The old trades are fading away. Weird experience: Workups with HMCS Iroquois in 1993 - the 'experts' were concerned that the upper decks were 'dangerous' due to radar radiation. So, whenever the ship went to Action Stations, we Signalmen all crowded into Radio 2 and kept the Sparker from becoming lonely! - Tom
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we Signalmen all crowded into Radio 2 and kept the Sparker from becoming lonely! - Tom
{-) {-) {-) ....and a good time was had by all. %%
Think I'd better start another thread though...this is Joe's build log after all. :-X
Regards,
Ray.
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Fortunately there are people with the appropriate skills using CAD packages to design appropriately sized figures and a search on Shapeways will produce figures of various sizes.
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{-) {-) {-) ....and a good time was had by all. %%
Think I'd better start another thread though...this is Joe's build log after all. :-X
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks Ray, I don't mind it's all information and it keeps the thread ticking over while I'm getting started on "Brock" :-))
I started the bilge keels last week, but court my wife's cold so didn't feel like doing much early this week, of course it mutated into a MANCOLD which as we all know it sooo much worse, felt better yesterday so back to the keels, I've used 3mm ply and stiffened the joint with 5 brass rods in each, epoxy joint softened the joint with p38, a couple of coats each of sealer and paint and I think they will be ok, next I think I'll make up the rudders. O0
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Happy to see you're feeling well enough to carry on - like the way you have tackled those bilge keels. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Ray,
started the rudders today, my usual laminated styrene type should do fine, centre laminate is 1.5mm. and the outer two are 1mm. cut a slot in the centre and I used to groove the outer ones but now find it's easier to grind the shaft flat instead, I used 30min.epoxy to bond them as it would give more fiddle time, after an hour I realised this had not set, strange as I had just opened sealed packs though I have had them for some time, I did think the resin looked grainy and the hardener quite yellow, I thought about leaving it over night but it may have semi set to a rubbery stoge so I took them apart and cleaned them and re bonded them with some 5min epoxy, this time all's well. %%
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That's a great way to make a rudder Joe - I'll be using that method on some of my future builds. Sometimes the simplest ideas are the best. Thanks for that. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Left rudders over night to harden the epoxy then sanded the rudders to give them a profile, the two assemblies are now ready to fit to boat, I like to extend the detailing under the water line and I think these type of rudders look more authentic than the tailor made type of a brass plate with a stock soldered to it, I'm sure they are fine it's just a personal preference. O0
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Looking good already, I will tag along if thats ok, really enjoyed the Coventry build :-))
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Welcome to the Radio Joe auditorium Starspider, there are still a few seats left!
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Welcome to the Radio Joe auditorium Starspider, there are still a few seats left!
Thankyou kind sir, quality always attracts followers 8)
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Initial fit of the rudders , tacked a temporary former and packers in place to hold the rudders parallel, then held the tubes in with cryano, and then epoxy, then the bracing, I'll remove the rudders and set them aside while other work is going on, the aft decks on these Hunt Class appears quite complicated and with a mezzanine deck over the top I think it would be difficult to have access to the hull in this area so I'm attempting to get everything under the main access the motors should be at the aft of this access leaving room for a 12v 7amh sla, ESC's, Rx etc. and I'm going to use a Bowden cable for the rudders so I can site the servo just about anywhere, this works fine for the control surfaces on aircraft so I see no problems using one in a boat %%
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Looks very sound to me Joe. I like the sturdy supports to stop the join between hull and tubes being broken if you suffer a sideways impact :-))
I am interested to see how the bowden cable works. This is like a bicycle brake cable Ja?
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That's a nice way to secure the the rudder posts. I've not seen that before. I usually fit wooden blocks down over the tubes, but your way is much nicer (and lighter) :-))
Cheers
ken
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Nice work, if I am telling you how to su.ck eggs may I suggest golden rod or a Sullivan Bowden cable they are very good and put virtually no extra load on the servo.
Regards Colin
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Here is the DU-BRO version......'engine control flex cable'.......have never used them but the fly boys seem happy %) ..... Derek
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Thanks for your interest guys, the Bowden cables I've used before have a nylon inner and outer so should be just right for a marine environment, in case of corrosion or oxidation of a metal inner, also the nylon inner is fluted to reduce friction but I'll keep any curves to a minimum, screw in a 2mm threaded tail and clevis each end and well support the outer cable over it's length and I should be able to site the servo amidships, I've used these on gliders years ago with the cable around 800mm and worked fine with a standard servo. :-)
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That's the type Radiojoe, you can even join them if you are building BIG ships
Sorry for teaching you to suck eggs.
Colin
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Not at all mate, I'm just happy your interested enough to tag along. :-))
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Unearthing my OCD on Nylon again %% Nylon expands to a specified amount if made wet, and while the cable is inside the hull, am I over worrying about the possibility that any water ingress might jam the cable?
Off to lie down in a darkend room until Nurse administers the tablets %%
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If indeed nylon does expand when exposed to water, given the cable I'll be using have both nylon inner and outer components would they not expand proportionately thus maintaining the working clearances, {-) %) :o keep taking the tablets Ian, I think I need a couple myself. %%
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Joe,
The way I've done Quorns rudders is buy twin brass rods, this seem to work for me. When I've used the Bowden cable method is when I need to have a curve in the push rods.
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I don't plan on having any access hatches in the aft deck, so I'm using maintenance free water proof shafts and anything that could need replacing like servo's I'm siting under the main hatch so the rudder servo will be about amidships alongside the battery, I could probably use a long push rod but I feel a Bowden cable would do a better job.
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Thinking about it :-)) The inner element of the cable would be unlikely to get wet, so ignore my nylon obsession (ooer missus).
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Joe,
With Quorn I've put the servo under the dive decompression chamber, as I've got an access hatch which is hided by the dive chamber.
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Dave isn't the dive compressor half way under the top deck overhang plus the mezzanine deck over it, I take it you're making this removable. ;)
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Joe, thats correct, the time frame I'm building Quorn is Asher current fit, the dive chamber is the two man size and takes up all the deck area. Also the large opening in the main deck has been reduce by about 70%
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OK Dave, I'm building mine "as build circa 1988" it will be interesting to see the differences between the two, when I eventually get my head round the Mezzanine deck I will try and make it removable as there is so much gear under it, and under the forward well deck, not an easy build by any standard. %% %%.
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Joe,
I've got to that assumption as well. I think I have a solution which will allow the deck to be remove and keep the bulk walks in place but strong enough to to allow the removal & replacement the deck
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It will be interesting to see what you come up with Dave,
done a bit more today, fitted a bulkhead the top of which is the forward end of the well deck, this is the only bulkhead I'll fit as the hull is quite rigid and strong I'll do the rest of the beam with cross members/deck bearers, normally at this stage I'd fit the shafts / motors, but at this time of year the wife is always asking what can she and the family get me for Christmas, so I said I'd make a list of the components needed for Brocklesby and they could pick what ever they want to get that way I get what I really want, the list so far has come to £220 so I don't expect to get it all that would be greedy %) wouldn't it %) so for now I'll potter around with deck bearers and pre fitting decks etc. ;)
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I'm taking my time with this build, so just been pottering about with it, fitted the aft deck barers and cross members, held in place with cyano and backed up with epoxy, and just started pre fitting the aft deck, I placed an order worth £170 with cornwallmodelboats on Monday 1 o-clock got an e mail from them at 3 o-clock to say it had been despatched, it has just arrived today lunchtime, so well done to them yet again. :-))
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As always Joe, clean and crisp work. Cornwall were quite prompt with my order as well taking the weekend into account.
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Thanks Ian,
aft deck pre fitted, and I fitted a sub deck to the bow to enable the fitting of the anchor hawsers before the main deck, makes it easier to seal around the inside, now waiting delivery of the bow thruster from Modelboatbits, never fitted one of these before so should be fun. %% %%
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Nice and sturdy looking hull work Joe. :-))
Can you tell me what the brown colour stuff is at the inner stern in img_2132.jpg please ?
Regards,
Ray.
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Coming along nicely Joe. Always fun to watch your builds. :-))
Greg
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Nice and sturdy looking hull work Joe. :-))
Can you tell me what the brown colour stuff is at the inner stern in img_2132.jpg please ?
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks guys,
Ray it's just paint, I usually paint the inside of the hull on my large builds, my 1:48 tug was a red lead colour, but this one is nut brown, just because had a spare pot of it so thought I'd use that, and I paint each section as it's finished, I know there's no need to paint the inside but hey why not %% {-)
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Joe,
I,ve always used gloss white as it looks cleaner and it gives a better light reflection in side.
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Yes quite right Dave, white would be a better colour, ho am I aloud to say that %% {-) {-) {-) :-X
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Made up the battery box leaving a space aft of it for the motors, (hurry up Santa) and installed the rudder servo on the port shelf, the Rx will be in front of that keeping it well above the water line, the stabrd. shelf will hold the ESC's one for motors and I've decided to use an ESC for the bow thruster I think it will give greater control and it's what Raboesch recommend, I've now fitted my first bow thruster, and it went quite well, I did have to move it slightly more aft to where the plans shows it in order to get enough width to engage the nozzles on the pump housing, I know the Hunt Class have a different thruster arrangement to this but I'm happy with this setup.
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very nice work Joe :-))
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I have never seen a combo battery box/running gear platform like that before - inspired woodcraft, that is...well done Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Ah, but then he's clever like that Captain. It is a good idea though so you have the eclectic bits in one place for easy reference.
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Ok
Managed to get a look at the bow thruster arrangement on the Leadbury from the stbd side. Two holes with the fwd one higher than the aft. Fwd edge of the fwd one lines up rounghly with the rear of the 30mm gun deck(ish)
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Sorry about the bad angle but can not get into the drydock at the moment
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Tje aft is the suction and lines up with frame 11 while the fwd is the discharge
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Thanks for the info Jay, given the two holes port and stbrd, I would imagine the Hunts have a thruster pump port and stbrd or a valve system to direct the trust, with the simple model thrusters available I'm not sure I could make a four hole system work, I suppose I could just make the aft holes dummies, but as this is my first attempt at a bow thruster I think I'll keep it simple, while I do like to be fairly close to the real boat I also like to use a good deal of that all important modellers licence. {-) {-)
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They have a complicated valve arrangement but keeping it simple is probably better!
I would love to make a Hunt class, it's on my list (including the rusty bits - they do exsist)
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Thanks Jay, I thought it must be something of that nature, as for the rust, after thirty odd years it's not surprising. :-))
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A bit more done today pre fitting the main deck, starting with the bearers and cross members doesn't need many as I'm using 3mm light ply for the main deck which is quite self supporting, it didn't bend over the camber that well so some deep scoring on the underside made it easier, I had noticed the fashion plates at the foc'sle break were not lined up across the beam that well and it became more apparent once the deck was in place with the aft end of the deck square athwartships the top of the stabrd fashion plate was a good 1/8" further aft than the port one, I had to sand a bit off the stabrd one, but had to be careful not to spoil the moulded rim that runs round the edge of the decks, so it was a compromise, a bit off the hull and the end of the deck slightly out of square, I don't think it will notice that much once all the deck gear is in place. %)
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I was going to use 1/8th ply for my deck but will go thinner as I have not much room for everything in a slim hull. Taa for the visual tips on deck fitting etc Joe.
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Yes space was a problem on my little 1:96 Algerine, I'm tending to favour 1:48 builds now this it my second and there's loads of space plus all the fittings are a lot easier to handle,
did the basic superstructure today went quite well once I had got it in my head, just needs a final fit once the deck is on permanently , I think I might have a go at that funny shaped funnel next. %% %% {-)
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I've been making the funnel over the last couple of days, the drawings don't give a lot of detail of this item but with the help of some photos I think I've got a reasonable funnel or at least my interpretation of it, I've installed the two exhaust ducts that protrude though the base into a manifold so it's ready if I decide to fit a smoke gen, The Deltics were known to kick out some exhaust when working hard so I may well fit one, next up I'll have a go at the mast. :D
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At this speed Joe you will need another project in the new year O0
Nice work getting loads of ideas
colin
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Hi Colin, I think I'm good for a few months yet, I don't get the running gear till Christmas, good ol' Santa, so I'm just making various modules to have them ready when needed, the wheelhouse is very complex so that should take some time, and I don't have any of the fittings so will try to make what I can. %%
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Mtroniks do a Napier Deltic sound unit if you fancy adding sound.
http://www.mtroniks.net/prod/Sound-Systems-For-Scale-Models/digisound5mNDD.htm#description
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Thanks for the info Roger, that would indeed be a nice finishing touch, there's plenty of room for it. :-))
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It must have been like working in a subs engine room with those huge diesels hammering away down inside!
It is a shame you cannot recreate black smoke without using poorly oxygenated fuel or chemicals.
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A bit more done, made the basic mast and made a start on the forward bridge/wheelhouse, tricky getting the bridge sides round the tight radius but with the careful use of a heat gun I got away with it, was not looking forward to that bit. %%
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Did the tower take much work to make? It looks simple until you look at the rear!
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Hi Ian, it was made in a similar way to the funnel, the funnel is clad with two layers of .5 styrene but the mast only needed one layer, most likely because there's no flat areas on the curved part it's quite rigid.
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Lovely piece of work Joe.
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Coming along nicely Joe. However, I now have some grave suspicions about you. No normal person scratch builds a large model without apparently creating a speck of sawdust, a sliver of styrene, a shaving of wood. And not a tool in sight. AND all on a carpeted floor! %%
Everything is spookily clean and tidy. Us normal people operate in a jumble of material scraps, tools, fittings, plans and two other models being worked on. Admit it, you are an alien! O0
Greg
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No mess ? 👽!
You should see the state of the real thing!.
Just heard that the next Hunt in for the upgrade refit is the Brock somepoint next year.
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OK Greg, you got me, I'm from the planet Nokrap take me to your leader %% {-) {-)
But yes I do like to keep my workshop clean and tidy maybe from my apprentice days when it was drummed into you to clean up after yourself, so my old Dyson is always to hand and is hooked up to my scroll saw when in use and a rubbish sack that hangs on the end of a Worktop, so the photos are taken after I've cleaned up at the end of a session, %) of course another reason is if I didn't 'er in doors would ave me by the ear %% <*<
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I hoover up dust, but have a severe case of 'Horizontalitis' where any flat surface is there to put stuff on:O)
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Started another bit that I have been concerned about, the wheelhouse, and it's now I'm pleased it's 1:48, my 1:96 Coventry and Zulu wheelhouses were extremely fiddly, but so far this one is going OK, the base panels are done and now for the tricky bits, fingers crossed.
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Looking good Joe, if you want to do some more clearing up my shed is a bit of a mess. :embarrassed:
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No that's OK my wife can't see your shed lol.
Well that's the tricky bit done cutting all the windows out it took most of the day but very satisfying to see the wheelhouse take shape, I'll leave the roof loose till the paintings done and the fit out of the wheelhouse, I've no idea what the inside of a Hunt class wheelhouse looks like so I'll have to use quite a lot of modelers licence.
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Crisp sir, very crisp. According to Google Images, the interior looks like a cross between a cabin cruiser and a luxury yacht!
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Thanks Ian, Brocks wheelhouse will most likely be a mash up of several of the wheelhouse's I seen and worked in while in the dockyard, just got to find some 1:48 navy bods to go in there before the final fit of the roof. ;)
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Might not get the Brok next as the grapevine says she will be scrapped due to cracked A frames and other issue's
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That's sad to hear, looks like my Brock might be only one sailing in the future. <:( {:-{ but I guess after 32 years service it's not surprising that time has taken it's toll. {:-{
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I think she will be the sacrifice for the new ships. Should know more after a meeting on Thursday in the boat shed
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I've been pottering around making the compressor room, and started making the air intakes now looking for something to make the conical shape on the forward end, I guess it's looking something like the drawing.
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Interesting and complex vents Joe. Still, easier to make than cowl vents .
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You're right there Ian, fortunately there are non of the cowling vents on Brock,
I found something to make the conical cowling, a little melamine cupboard door knob and after some fettling and adding a couple of bits of styrene it looks something like it, also found my self made 1.96 hatch mouldings will do for access panels each side, next I'll tackle the air cleaners at the aft base of the funnel, these will be working air vents to get some air circulation for the smoke gen fan.
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I usually turn them from solid or use putty around a stryrene former. I will look in the DIY shop next time I am in town and see what the future holds in the form of interesting shapes.
That part of the superstructure has suddenly become very complicated visually, excellent Joe:O)
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well I've got a box of odds and ends, things that I find like little door knobs, bits left over from flat pack furniture, plastic bits broken off toys etc. it's surprising what deck items you can make with a bit of imagination
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It is the duty of all modellers to collect and hunt oddly shaped bits for models.
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just finished the air intakes, as I said I wanted these to be functional and let air in to the smoke gen fan and get a bit of air around the motors, the door recesses on the strbrd side of the superstructure have open tops so air can also get in there, the air housing was painted black inside before the top was bonded on.
I was passing the Gosport model shop earlier this week, the shop MAINLY PLANES AND TRAINS has come a heck of a long way since it opened, a small shop but it's bursting with stock and now has a lot of building materials, anyway I have pre fitted the rudder cable and tested it all seems to work as it should, and have removed it in case it gets in the way when fitting the running gear, (hurry up Santa).
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Very tidy Joe, may pinch the working vent idea :-))
colin
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And it makes perfect sense. You don't have to reinvent the wheel (or rein-vent the vent).
Crisp work as usual Joe.
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The smoke generator arrived today just six days from OZ, for my money this is the best smoker you can get (if Carling made smokers etc etc.) though probably best suited to the larger boats, of course I had to test it and try it out in Brock's funnel, a bit too much smoke but then it was on full power, when it's connected to the ESC and outside with a bit of wind I think it will be more realistic.
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I thought I'd make a start on the masters for some of the fittings, I don't expect I'll make all my own fittings for Brock, the fairleads for example have some thin top edges I think these would be better in metal so I'll buy these in, anyway started with the wheelhouse outer doors and the four panel doors, the wheelhouse doors are handed so I'll add detail to the mouldings, the rest of the doors can be fitted either way up so I'll mould in the details on these, there is just one three panel door but I'll still make a mould and add to my growing collection.
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Good grief that is an amount of smoke, is it a sonic water unit Joe?
Still better to have too much than too little.
Nice masters for your doors, do you make masters for all your fittings and save them for the next project
thats a great idea I think I may borrow as well (thats 2 I think), at this rate we are getting into beer territory.
Colin
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Hi Colin, The smoker is the normal electric element/wick type with fan but is very robust, the guy who makes them in OZ refines his own oil, I've been using one of these in my 1:48 tug and don't get oil splatter or smuts, and yes I've been making and moulding my own fittings for nearly two years now and have a fair amount of 1:96 and I'm building up my 1:48 ones now. :-))
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Did the three panel door today and mounted all three doors in the mould box, just filled with silicon rubber and I'll leave over night.
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Your attention to detail is astounding yet another great build! I especially like your mouldings, you make it look so achievable I'll have to try this technique at some point. Keep the pictures coming
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Thanks Mark mould casting is a fascinating extension to our hobby,
while the mould was curing I started the fit out of the wheelhouse, just the basic for now, it's probably nothing like the real wheelhouse but I'm just having fun with it.
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The curing of the mould took longer than usual, I think I was a bit light on the catalyst still a bit sticky last night but today it's OK so I cast the first batch of doors, if I mix too much resin I fill some of my other moulds so not to waste it, these build up my stock of fittings, the doors were set this afternoon and have come out fine.
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very nice mouldings, the detail is very crisp :-))
Have you posted any info on the resins and silicone you use in any of your previous builds
Joe if you have a clue as to location would be much appreciated.
Colin
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Hi Colin, yes it's covered in my Coventry build page 8 reply 178, I get my supplies from www.easycomposites.co.uk hope this helps.
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Many thanks off to have a read, Thanks Joe.
Forgot to say the wheel house is looking good too.
Colin
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In agreement with Colin. Lovely work.
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Thanks guys your comments are appreciated, added some detail to the two handed doors, and thought I'd make a few more fittings to reproduce.
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thought I'd make a few more fittings to reproduce.
We're watching and learning from your example Joe - and those doors are looking good. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Yup, they would sell nicely:O)
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Very nice doors as already said Joe. Will the mould for the fairleads/mooring bits be a two part mould
or will the silicon take the undercut Joe. (still trying to learn)
Colin
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Hi Colin, I had already decided to buy in the open fairleads in metal, it may be possible for me to make and mould them but they are quite thin at the top opening I think they would be very prone to breakage in resin.
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Coming along nicely Joe. I am going to order a casting kit from sylmasta today, I have got to start making my own moulds, still trying to fathom it all out. Great work as usual from you. Cheers Joe.
Phil
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Good for you Phil, I'm sure you will find it fun to do, just start with easy things like doors etc. Then use your imagination, I was charged over £200 for a "set" of 1:96 fittings by a certain supplier for my Coventry and when they came I'm dammed if I could see they were worth it, I only used the Scott domes and armaments, I thought then I could do better than that and it works out cheaper. :-))
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Hi Colin, I had already decided to buy in the open fairleads in metal, it may be possible for me to make and mould them but they are quite thin at the top opening I think they would be very prone to breakage in resin.
Good point Joe, you will have to start making some of the metal fittings next.
I have to agree your fittings appear a lot better than the ones sitting in a couple of
kit boxes in my shed. Still live and learn.
I am learning a lot from your builds and many of the others on the forum, Please keep the posts coming.
Thanks
Colin
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Thanks Colin, if my build logs help anyone I'm only too pleased, the main reason I do a build log is so I have a record of each build I do, if I just did a log at home I'd most likely forget to take regular photos etc. By doing one on Mayhem I'm a bit more dedicated plus I'm on here regularly and get inspiration from the excellent modellers on here. ;)
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Update on moulding the bollards, the moulding came out ok and by fitting the bases separate I'm able to do all eight bollards from one mould even if they are handed like the forward ones.
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looking very neat nice work :-))
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After talking about the fairleads I got to thinking maybe I'll try and make one, so I fettled one out of two pieces of styrene profile glued together, well I thought it came out ok, then I thought about the moulding of it, to make a mould of it standing upright would need to be a split mould due to the nature of the hole, I felt this was a bit complicated for such a small fitting, of course I could fettle all eight of them but I doubted I could get them all identical, it then dawned on me it could be moulded laid on it's side, which is what I did, and the first one has just been done, after sanding off the excess resin, I think I have some passable fairleads that are actually stronger than I had thought.
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Very good fairleads Joe. You will soon have enough to start a small business ;)
colin
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Hullo Joe.....watching the full build...& whilst I understand you are faithfully constructing components as per the plan.....I had to think twice of how best to describe the bollards as designed >>:-(
Two round pegs in a bigger rectangle and all mounted on a bit bigger parallelogram O0 ....
We must consider all of the forces are both in tension and shear on the inboard four securing bolt/rivets .....Derek
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Two round pegs in a bigger rectangle and all mounted on a bit bigger parallelogram O0 ....
We must consider all of the forces are both in tension and shear on the inboard four securing bolt/rivets .....Derek
Not wishing to be a "Rivet counter" Derek, I assumed that the 4 rivets are just meant to give an impression of the means of fixing the bollards not the literal number employed or am I being a dumb a*s, as they often are on model loco engines. Do you suggest that 4 is the magic number lol if so I am surprised all the bollards were not lost in the wet stuff :-))
colin
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Colin.....I would have thought even with draftsman's licence %) ...the number of bolts or fasteners on the sub base to the deck on a singular item such as this would have been prototypical [in number]
There are no actual bolts indicated between the bollard rectangular base and the lower parallelogram sub base, to this interface may have been welded
Bollards like these really only hold a vessel to or against a wharf...... whereas the fairleads are often subjected to far greater forces .....
I too was not counting rivets or bolts...was just the shape of the sub base that appeared odd...........I do however enjoy all of the build threads by Joe :-)).....Derek
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Sorry Gents,Joe drawing is correct an as like Joe my HMS Quorn build I have mounded in the bolt heads
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I wasn't sure about the bollard bases myself as I only had the plans to go by, but seeing your photo has given me a lot more confidence in plans, I guess it's one of the photos from your tour over Quorn, the last time I was in the dockyard I went down to see if I could get on Brocklesby but she was all locked up maybe they were on weekend leave, that type of photo is invaluable to aid a build thanks Dave. :-))
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I guess Daves pic says it all then Derek O0
It does seem quiet a small number of rivets/bolts but I guess the senior design engineer must have been happy the
figures for the tensile strength of the mounting method.
I am glad that your confidence in the plans is improved Joe, which plans are you using? I must admit to having doubts sometimes using drawings by other draughtsmen.
Like Derek I too really like following your builds Joe most entertaining and I learn stuff as well. Keep the posts coming sir :-))
Colin
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Thanks Colin, yes I'll keep posting as long as there's some interest, the plans are Fleetscale, very nice plans actually, four large sheets with most of the fittings detailed separately and a lot of views even below the well deck, the plans are for HMS Cottismore that was converted to a patrol vessel in 1997 and sold to Lithuania in 2008, but although there were slight differences between the Hunt Class fleet as far as I have been able to research Cottismore and Brocklesby were identical so should be fairly correct with a bit of licence of course. %%
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Looking forward to your next installment Joe :-)) I wonder what the black oblong on the deck by the bolards is/was?
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Hello Joe,
I like your build and was surprised to see that you make mouldings and castings. I order some silicone and resin too but I have a question. Do you use vacuum to make the moulds?
Kind regards, Kees
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Hi Kees, no you don't need vacuum you just have to be careful to avoid air bubbles, once you have made the fitting and glued it in a "box" pour the silicon in slowly from one corner this pushes the air out of the mould, the resin, I usually pour a small amount in and move it around with a cocktail stick or similar to disperse any air bubbles then fill the mould, try not to over fill or you will have more to sand off when it's set, hope this helps. :-))
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hope this helps. :-))
Yes it does. Thank you.
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In between casting the fittings I've made so far, I've been looking at the next moulding project the four hydraulic derek bases, the dereks are about the only items not shown as a separate drawing, so after studying them at length I've come up with what I think they look like, the two forward dereks and the port aft one are the same size bases, the strd aft one is bigger, the forward two are made up of three layers and the aft two have the lower layer omitted, the photos show the forward two, and the port aft will not have the lower webbed plinth.
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Brilliant work Joe. I think you have another potential product under development!
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Got to go with ballastanksian comment impressive work.
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Thanks for your kind comments guys, the derek base mould was cured this morning, so I got the first castings done this afternoon, it's always gratifying when the first castings of an item come out OK, and I made up the first cast base, also got the strd aft derek base done, this is bigger than the other three and as there is only one I'm not bothering to take a moulding, next will be the derek "arms" the two forward are the same, the two aft are different from the forward ones and each other, I'll make them all out of styrene sheet, that I've just noticed I've nearly run out of.
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Derek = bloke's name.
Derrick = lifting device.
Pedant...moi? Never... ok2
Brilliant build though!
Dave.
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I thought at the time, that didn't look right, I stand corrected %%, I posted it on my old laptop that has been upgraded to Windows 10 since then the smileys and the spell checker don't work.
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upgraded to Windows 10 since then the smileys and the spell checker don't work.
...and they call it progress <*<
Still, one day soon my XP aint gonna work no more. <:(
Excellent bit of work on the derricks there Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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That's OK Joe......I have been called worse {-)
One interesting point in the design of the luffing hydraulics of the ships hoists is the positioning of the cylinder [I did check the WIKI images to ensure the mounting was drawn correctly]
The mounting terminology is MT4, however with the trunion on the headcap.....the unusual point is that the cylinder rod clevis is fixed to the derrick structure and the cylinder inverted
So when pressure is applied to the rod side the boom raises...and all this sounds normal....however with a standard 2:1 ratio cylinder, the actual lifting/luffing force is effectively 1/2 of the lowering force
Now we could think that some dingbat designer got his raising & lowering efforts upside down......but no...there is a valid reason for all of this O0....... any guesses?..............Derek
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Does the extra pressure in the cylinder descending provide better control of the descent? You are a marvel with your resin casting. Many small wargames companies would love to get castings this crisp.
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Ian......I will post an explanatory PM....so not to further snatch the thread from Joe.........Derek
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Hi Derek (hope I've spelt that right) %% Looking at the tight radius geometry of the derricks it would appear that's the only way the cylinder could be mounted, I suppose it could be the other way round it the ram was mounted more parallel under the luffing arm, but that would make it liable to being struck by the whatever it was lifting, come to think of it tipper trucks/trailers have them mounted inverted, I'm not sure about any hydraulic advantages of mounting them this way, although the gas rams we fitted at work were always inverted apparently stops the seals drying out. :o
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Yes that me Joe ;)........again so as not to distract from your build thread, I will send the same PM to you as sent to Ian
It explains in relatively simple terms and concepts the basis behind the inverted cylinder mounting...which is interesting to me, but not at the expense of your build thread..........
I look forward to read & see the continuing build & images :-))........Derek
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Very nice castings again Joe :-))
Derek could I have the explanation as well please I can't think of a reason either >>:-(
colin
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All the derrick bases done, and I've made one of the luffing jib turrets, a bit of a fiddly job so I'm going to try and cast them, quite an odd shape so not sure how they'll come out but we'll see.
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Cast the first jib turret this morning and have just got it out of the mould, a bit tricky to get it out but with some patience I got it out in one piece so it should be ok for three more, I'll carry on with the derricks when my order of styrene sheet arrives CMB are usually quite quick even at this time of the year.
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Thats impressive Joe to get an item that complicated with no draft out of a one piece mould, deep respect.
I thought you would have had to venture into at least two or even a three part mould. :-))
Colin
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You've certainly got the knack there Joe - inspirational work. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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I thought it might be stronger moulded in one piece rather than two or three pieces glued together, as it has a long jib canter levered off of it, and although it would be fun to try and make the derricks moveable I doubt they would ever be used, so they will all be static and hopefully less prone to breakage. :o
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As long as you are careful and don't yank the mould about then it will release the part. Joe is helped by there being round edges on the front thus there being less to catch and snag the mould.
You can slit a mould so that it opens like a crocodile's mouth, but you have to line the edges up properly so the casting isn't slipped. You will most often notice slippage or stepping at the mould parting line on white metal castings and there are a few reasons for this.
yet again Joe, your work looks top rate, well it is, there's no 'looks' about it.
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well here's my first attempt at a derrick, I've used a bit of modelers licence, well lets face it I've used a hell of a lot of licence, but this is my version roughly assembled, just another three to do.
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Brilliant work Joe, that looks just the business!!!! I would make the next three at the same time to maximise on remembering dimentions etc unless you have boxed clever and have already cut all the components out?
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Thanks Ian, this one is one of the forward two the components for the other one are marked out, the aft two are different from the forward two and to each other, but now I've done one the rest should be easier. ok2
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:-)) :-)) :-))
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Made the second forward derrick, and added a bit more detail to them, here their shown in position on the upper deck, next I'll make the two aft derricks these are both different, by the time I've done these I'll have all the running gear so I'll be cracking on with that.
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very nice :-))
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Amen to that Mr Spider :-))
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didn't do much to Brock over the holidays, but now have all the running gear, and fed up with watching all the repeated stuff on telly I thought I'd have a good day on Brock, the result is the shafts are now fitted, still needs a bit of filling and fairing where they exit the hull, but quite pleased with the outcome, next will be the motors.
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Hi Joe I really like the extended inner shafts I always think that this set up looks great. I would imagine that they get well lubricated by the water when running but do you have to take corrosion precautions when the boat is sitting idle? I have never used this method so I was just wondering?
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The old telly does start to etch away important parts of your brain after a while doesn't it! I find the aniumated films the best to be honest. Ok, the plot is usually formulaic, but at least it is harmless fun.
Your return to progrees has been very successful Joe. By the way, did you exhibit at a recent show mentioned January Model boats? I cannot remember where I put my copy to give the name of the event! The show looked good despite the SWA displays being put in a quiet corner.
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Hi Mark, the shafts are the Raboesch waterproof type at £60 the pair they're not cheap, but the inner shaft is high quality stainless steel so no rust problems. :-))
Hi Ian, the SWA show was at Portsmouth Dockyard Christmas pageant I couldn't make it this year. {:-{
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A bit more done over the last few days, fitted the motors/esc's etc. , I fitted the shafts as per plan but because the aft part of the hull sweeps up to a small transom it made the motors fairly high so by inverting the gear boxes I was able to get the motors a bit lower.
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Your layout is very tidy Joe. I have been refitting a Tug boat this week and have found the hull shape to be much kinder to such work than a fine hulled destroyer.
Looking good Matey. The show that I mentioned was at the Rhythe at Hayling Island in September, so you may have been there.
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Hi Ian, yes the 1:48 hulls do give a lot more scope, yes I was at the Mill Rythe show, it was a good show and we did some sailing displays in their swimming pool, Mill Rythe Holliday village host a lot of events and that weekend was for the veterans and Algerine Association, sadly their numbers are getting rather depleted these days, when asked about what they did they just say they were doing a job,, brave men in my book. O0
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Amen to that. Sadly that is life, no one lives forever and so one day all our WW2 Veterans will have been laid to rest to join their comrades who died decades past and at such a tragically young age doing their bit for us.
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Hi Joe, I notice that you have a double universal joint on each motor, is there a reason for that?
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The double couplings are just to get the motors further forward so they are just about accessible from the large access under the main superstructure, I'm sure there are other ways I could have done this but it works for me. %)
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Did a leak test on the hull yesterday and had the running gear working, everthing works fine and I'm very pleased with the bow thruster that works just as it should, at this time I didn't have the 12 volt battery leads, so I had the 12v SLA battery in place and two nimh batteries connected to the ESC's this was fine for test purposes, but the main motors will run on 12 volt and as the bow thruster motor is only 7.2 volt I'll put a diode in the supply to the thruster ESC effectively halving the voltage, after 30 minuits there were no leaks, which is always nice.
so today the aft deck was bonded on, the fore end of this deck is over hung by the upper deck by approx 5" this will make painting in that area a bit of a pain so to make it a little easier I'm making the structures under that area in separate modules that will slide in place after painting, well that's the plan anyway.
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No leaks is good Joe :-))
Will you make the modules under the upper deck removable or fix them.
She is looking very good. Nice running gear as well.
colin
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Thanks Colin, yes the modules will fixed after painting is done, it's an attempt to make painting this area a bit easier, so the modules will have all the detailing on them before final fixing.
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Sounds like a good plan shall look forward to seeing the results.
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Glad to hear that everything worked first time. That said you have done a few so you know what you are doing!
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I had planned on dropping the voltage from the 12 volt battery for the bow thruster which is 7.2 volt, but as the main motors are rated at 4.5 to 15 volt it would seem to me not worth the bother when I can run the whole boat on 6 volt, so have decided to do just that as there was ample power when I did the test with a 7.2 nimh battery, I thought why complicate things when you don't need to. %%
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I went for a distribution board on 7.2 volts for the destroyer, and have done so for the Tug saving lots of different batteries etc.
Is your 6volt battery an Lead acid? It will give you ample ballast as well as power just like many tug builders do.
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Yes Ian the 6 volt is an SLA it's replacing a 12 volt SLA, but I had a thought last night I've already got a 12 volt smoke generator for the boat that doesn't run that well on 6 volt so I may have to rethink power options, a distribution board may be the answer, I'll look into that. :-))
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You can get small boards that will convert 6v to 12v if you don't want too much current, Maplins used to have them.
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Component Shop sell them too.
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Thanks for the suggestions, I've looked at a few options and decided to order a 6 volt smoke generator from OZ, this keeps things simple and as a bonus my Springer tug Gopha Girl will be getting retro fitted with the spare 12 volt smoke gen. I made her exhaust stacks smoke able when I built her, and I can remove enough ballast to account for the smoke unit, we'll see how it goes.
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Spent a couple of days doing a part of the build I like best, detailing, this is the area between the decks which is easier to do at this stage, before bonding the main deck on, as said previously the two outer structures are loose and will be painted separately and fitted after painting the area. this stage is also where the stock of moulded fittings come in handy you can adapt some fittings to suit other purposes, a 1:96 ammo locker makes a reasonable 1:48 electrical box or a 1:96 large locker makes a 1:48 small locker etc.
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Very nice work Joe, your mouldings are impressive if I squint it looks photographic very cool. :-))
colin
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I particulary like 2327, it really looks like you are in the room taking the photo :-))
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Brilliant work, looks like you could walk through and open the doors,
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Excellent and so realistic as the others have said. I like nooks as they seem to concentrate detail.
You are excelling yourself Joe :-))
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Thanks guys, the main deck is now bonded on, just in time I remembered to fit the anchor hawsers I like to fit these before the deck so I can epoxy them from inside hull, just now fitted the stiffeners each side of the access hatch, next I'll tidy up round the edge joint and fit the plinth around the access and no doubt I'll have a bit of fine trimming on the main superstructure, I'll fit the hold down magnets after that.
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I like the coaming on the foredeck. I hope you can get your brushes through it to get to all the detail on the bulkhead!
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Hi Ian, yes I can pick out the detail on the fore end, which is why I left the two outer walls loose to slid in place later.
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Phew!
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Today I got the combings around the access hatch done, I usually like the RC switches on the deck disguised as a vent or something but on this one the main superstructure is easily removable and is quite robust so I've incorporated the switches in the combing, and as I thought the superstructure needed some fine trimming to settle it down on the deck, it had only been prefitted to the deck clamped in place, after this came the fitting of the magnets, after a bit of careful measuring and fiddling I finally got the right, the magnets I have do need to be touching to get maximum hold.
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Looking very good Joe. Do the magnets hold it all together ok even if it gets choppy.
colin
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Hi Colin, yes, provided all the magnets set up right and touching when the structure is hard on the deck they hold really well, I got fifty strong magnets for around £2 including postage, not ALL stuff on e-bay is rubbish. :-))
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Cheers Joe I shall go eBay hunting
colin
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They seem to have become popular for holding things like that down on model boats, as Stan has done the same on his Schutze.
Looking good Joe:O) Tidy arrangement for the switches.
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Looking great Joe.... :-))
The magnets are called Neodymium and are super strong. U2
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I was making the derricks before I got carried away with bonding the deck on, and had made the forward two, while these are still in my mindset I am now making the aft two this one is the aft stabd , shorter and has a heavier base, the aft port will be next longer and lighter.
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Crikey, so many types of derrick, even on a modernish vessel! Still, it adds to te overall impression of detail.
:-))
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The derricks are quite fiddly so before I make the last one I thought I would have a go at the RIB for moulding so here's the result it's a little off being symmetrical but I think it's passable the bow canopy is going to be added after casting, likewise with the outboard motors propeller to simplify casting, now to make the moulds.
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For improved casting reliabilty and mould life I would make the outboard separate as well. Perhaps make a dimple on the underside of the motor block and a similar one on the stern board so you can then drill and pin the pieces together accutrately.
Looking good though Joe!
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Hi Ian, the outboard is just resting on the rib for the photo, they are now curing in separate molds. ;)
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Good oh. Looking forward to see your first casts.
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While waiting for the RHIB moulds to cure I made the aft port derrick, a lighter design than the strb one, next I fashioned the bull ring from a piece of copper pipe, next in line is the anchor winch.
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Sterling work Joe.
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Nice bit of cranery and copper bashing
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Thanks for the comments guys, Got the second RIB cast today, both came out well, the first out board had a bit missing due to air right at the bottom and had to slice on one side to extract easier but the second came out OK, I added the bow aprons, all in all I'm quite pleased with them.
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Joe very nice castings. A question if I may does the floor/deck normally have such high
strenthening ribs as they would appear to be a trip hazard.
colin
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I dare say your right it was the smallest strip I had, painting may soften it a bit. %%
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The Standard RN inflatable back in the 70's
was the Gemini which was not a rib but just a
rubber inflatable with a folding ply and wood strip
Strengthening floor.
They were very good for stubbing toes.
Ned
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Excellent castings Joe!
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it was the smallest strip I had, painting may soften it a bit. %%
ahhhhh always a good logical reason lol
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I've been making my version of the anchor winch today, as there's only one I'm not going to bother with a moulding for the body, but the windlass drums are quite tricky so I've made one and will cast two off, so this is as far as I've got till the mould has cured.
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It just gets better and better :-))
I think those rhibs are fantastic. Well done, quality work! U2
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Amen :-))
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nice winch Joe :-))
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Got the anchor winch finished, it's so much more satisfying to make fittings than buying them as a job lot, I intend to try and make all or most of the items on Brocklesby, it will make the build much longer but as I enjoy building them more than sailing them that's fine by me,
next up is the deck water brake and lockers.
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Standard of your fittings I think that is a sensible choice especially as you enjoy the building.
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I agree, they are top notch and would be the pride of anyones model I reckon.
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Thanks for your comments and interest chaps, did the basic water brake I'll add some more detail after painting, also the anchor hawser collars the winch is still loose and will be painted separately, while in that area I had a go at making the anchors I think they came out OK, the two only took a couple of hours to make so didn't bother moulding them, I find styrene a very good medium to work with.
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Keep it coming Joe it's great :-))
A couple of questions.......
Everyone except me seems to make fantastic detailed pieces from 'styrene' or plastic I'm going to have to give it a go but what is the best glue to use on it?
Also when you made those fantastic doors and stowage boxes behind the water brake (not sure if that's what they are called) did you cut the hinge straps out separately or are they moulded units?
I think it seems to be the boat builders material of choice but being relatively new to boats I've never come across it. I think a look online or a trip to the model shop is in order..... U2
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Hi U2, I use liquid poly cement for most styrene construction and thin Cyanoacrylate to join styrene to other materials like ply deck etc. all the details on the lockers are cut off various styrene strip, www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk stock styrene in many sizes, sheets of various thickness, and lots of profiles. :-))
Deans marine do a pack of assorted micro strip styrene, that I've found really useful for fine detailing. O0
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Hi Joe,
I don't know whether it would be of use, but while looking into another project in the Thornycroft archives in Southampton, I noticed that there's a box of records including stuff on Brocklesby. Their reference is VT/R Box 16 and it's dated 1980.
Cheers
Tony
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Thanks for the info Tony, not sure where it is but if I get up to Southampton I'll look them up. :-))
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Hi U2, I use styrene every day and can vouch fully for what Joe is saying. I use Plastic weld to stick styrene together but liquid poly is also good and has a nice smell:O)
Evergreen and Plastruct are the premier strip manufacturers with the former making the better strip, and the latter making the better rod, it being round and always solid.
All good model shops should sell a range of styrene sheet, usually in A4 size or very similar, and the really good ones selling larger sheets that are good for decks etc.
10thou (.25mm) is good for representing plates and for laminating curves, and also good for flanges etc.
20 thou (.5mm) is good for the above on large scale models and also has some strength for making some structures where the edges can be seen, though you can chamfer the edge of thicker plastic down to recreate a thinner wall.
30 and 40 thou (.75mm and 1mm respectively) are good for structures such as deck houses.
60 thou (1.5mm is good structural material, but I would be careful using it on superstructures where balance is more critical.
You can get 2mm, 2.5mm and even thicker on occasion and these are probably best left unless you need to laminate a block of plastic to carve.
It can be cut, sawed, drilled and carved, it can also be heat formed with care using a soldering iron for rod and strip, and in sheet form using hot water or a hot air gun. The oldest trick in the latter's book is stretched sprue for making aerials on tank models where you heat some model kit sprue over a candle/naked flame and stretch the sprue into filament when the middle softens but this is a smelly and dirty job.
Look at the shapes that Joe and other modellers make with styrene on their models and you can see how versatile it is:O)
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Wow Joe, a lot of hard work going into this build. Nice looking ship, has some nice lines to it. Amazing details going on here as well. Well done!!! :-)) :-))
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Thanks Dennis, good to hear from you on the other side of the pond. :-))
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Fitted the spurn waters/ fairleads and bollards to the decks, the hull is about ready for painting now but it's too cold and damp in the garage where I do the spray painting, I doubt if that will be done for a couple of months so for now I'll carry on making the many items on her decks, I've ordered some box section styrene the aid the construction of the mezzanine deck supports, that is something I've still to get my head around.
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From what I can see, they look simple enough. They have gone back to the early ninteenth century method of boat storage on a frame, so I suggest that like HMS Warrior (1905) and others, the frames will have scantling shaped frames to sit the boats in and the odd walkway I walked past one berthed in Poole some years back and was too enthused by the minigun on the bridge wing and what was underneath the mezzanine to pay full attention.
I can see square beans and supports with plate reinforcements at the corners with the corners bevelled. Well within your experience and skills Joe.
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Yes I've just about worked out how I'm going to do the mezzanine, my main concern is to make it removable for painting and future cleaning etc. I plan to fix the first inch of each support to the deck these will carry the side panels then the rest of the support "hoops" will slot in the tops of the fixed pieces, but of course it will be removed as one structure. %%
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That sounds a bit technical, looking nice tho'
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When I decided to try and make all the items for Brocklesby I was bit concerned about the DS30B gun on her fore deck and whether I could make one that would pass muster, but I thought I've nothing to loose but a bit of time and a small amount of styrene, so I've spent the last couple of days on my version of the DS30B and have to say I'm quite pleased with the result, I didn't bother with any mouldings for this as it was quite enjoyable to make so if I ever need another one I'll know what to do.
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and a few more if it's not too boring.
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Very nice work Joe looks superb, no worries about passing muster at all. :-))
The barrel also looks good, did you make that as well?
colin
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and a few more if it's not too boring.
Boring?
Your builds are never boring Joe.
They are a revelation to many of us.
You have turned a few into pattern
maker's and Casters and shown how
to make all kinds of fittings.
Ned
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Thanks, yes Colin the barrel is made from brass rod tapered in a drill and filed while turning and finished off with pieces of brass tube. ;)
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the barrel is made from brass rod tapered in a drill and filed while turning and finished off with pieces of brass tube. ;)
cool skills :-))
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I'm with Ned Joe. its a pleasure to watch your builds. I have now started to make my own castings and moulds, all thanks to you. The pictures you posted were worth a thousand word to me :-)) Cheers Joe.
Regards.
Phil
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Coming along nicely Joe. Looking forward to the maiden voyage! :-))
Greg
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Thanks guys, welcome back Greg hope your cruise went well,.
Just been messing about today adding some detail to the aft end of the main superstructure, next is to make a couple of 20mm Oerlikons, as I'm build Brock as was before the wing decks were converted to take miniguns, the plans don't show much detail of the Oerlikons but I've found a couple of nice photos on line that will do nicely.
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And I'm with Spooksgone and Ned, FAR from boring, in fact very interesting :-))
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Amen chaps, its like a quality documentry reading these posts.
The gun is first class. I wish the Minigun I made for a company recently was 1:48th as I would have sent you some but sadly they are 1:76th :((
There are lots of images on Google :}
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Thanks for your interest chaps.
I've been busy making the two Oerlikon 20mm cannons the last couple of days, very fiddly but I think I've got close to the two photos I found allowing for a bit of license, these are my versions, I know the shell catcher would have been a canvas bag, but I did say "my versions".
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I think we can forgive you the canvass bags Joe. They look the usual business. I like the curvy ammuniton feeds, realisticly different for each gun.
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Very nice Joe as usual, looks like you could become mayhems own armourer <*<
There are so many of those guns in the world I reckon somewhere your bag replacements are right.
colin
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While waiting to spray the hull/deck etc. I'm picking items to make at random from the drawings, today I chose the diver decompression camber, then spent some time looking for bits to make it with, came up with a piece of overflow pipe, it was 5mm too large across the diameter, so had to cut a section out and by warming it managed to close and glue it to make it smaller, next was the domed ends these were done with an old aircraft aluminium spinner by heating it and pushing a piece of .5mm styrene over it, turned out ok, well that was to hard part, the rest was just adding pieces to make it look similar to the drawing, I'll add some brass etch valve wheels later.
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The real art of model making is ingenuity and improvisation, and you have both in all four card suits.
'How on earth can I make that . . . ?' Well done :-))
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What Bob K ^ said can't add anything to that :-))
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I'll add that I learnt something.
Nice build - I've been lurking so far but enjoying all your hard work O0
Dave
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Cracking stuff, really thinking out side of the box. Love it :-))
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Joe the Genius :-))
Brilliant looking assembly and another bit that is gong to make your Brock look top notch.
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You lot are far too kind, but your interest in my offerings is always appreciated. O0
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I agree with all above the statements except yours Joe!....... They are not too kind...... They are absolutely spot on :-)) ........
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Next item to make is the large drum winch under the mezzanine deck, unfortunately there are only two useful views of this on the drawings, a plan view and an aft end view, and even those views have other items in the way, the two side views are virtually just half of the drum, so most of this item will be pure intuition or fiction even, but as it's not in open view I should get away with it.
I couldn't find a piece of poly pipe of the right size so the drum had to be fabricated the centre being .5mm styrene warmed and rolled around formers on the drum sides these had to be glued both sides at the same time to keep things parallel.
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Hey Joe, looks like your build is coming together. Like the attention to details, looks amazing. Some awesome building going on here!!! :-)) :-))
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Joe.....that large winch drum you have built ...is it used for paying out & hauling in an electrical unbiblical cord of some sort?...which connects to a towed sonar drone?.........
As always....the detail is excellent :-))... Derek
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Thanks,
Derek, I thought it must be some sort of cable drum, given the size of the drum and the small drive motor "probably hydraulic" that can be seen in the plan view, and the fact there are other quite large winches close by, so thanks for confirming that. :-))
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Cable reel/drum just about done, as previously said mostly imagination but based on what I've seen during my time in the boat/ship building industry, next I think it's time I tackled the mezzanine deck this could take some time.
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:-)) Must say Joe have been watching and enjoying this build. It will help me when I get round to the Ton class. But great building Joe.
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Thanks Paul, haven't heard much about your Lusty recently, I'm guessing you put her away for the winter. O0
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Reference the big drum. I served in HMS Middleton for one of my training months many moons ago. The drum held the buoyant magnetic influence sweep loop. I think, may be wrong but she also had a "pulse generator" driven by a three bank Deltic Diesel engine which powers the loop. I found this on tinter web---
The vessels were originally fitted with minesweeping systems that required the vessels to enter potential minefields in order to deploy them. The minesweeping systems fitted were the non-magnetic wire sweep mk8 (WS 8), which was streamed either as a single ship Oropesa or as a team sweep, and the combined influence sweep, which combined a minesweeping system acoustic mk1 (MSSA 1) and a magnetic sweep mk14 buoyant loop (MS 14).
The towed loop of the Hunt Class vessels takes a significant time to deploy and also restricts the movement and manoeuvrability of the ship. The sweep systems have been removed but can be reinstalled at 30 days' notice. Sweep systems have been used by the Royal Navy for 100 years and the final deployment of sweep gear by the Royal Navy was carried out in October 2005 off the coast of the Isle of Wight by HMS Ledbury (M30).
Jerry.
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I thought I would make one of the mezzanine supports to test my solution of making the whole mezzanine deck removable and leave the side panels fixed, it should work ok with the pins having a taper to make location of all of them easier, the plan is once all five supports are in place I'll add all the cross members in situ and bond the mezzanine deck on, then hopefully I should be able to carefully remove the structure.
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That's a neat looking solution you have there Joe - as long as the tapered pins are set absolutely level, it should work.
Regards,
Ray.
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Yes I think you're right there Ray, the structure will have to be eased off, there are also six inboard supports I'll fix these to the structure and they'll just rest on the aft deck so it will just be the pins around the out side to locate,.
After painting the mezzanine will only be removed for occasional dusting etc. I don't know about you guys but my boats seem to attract dust like magnets. %%
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I don't know about you guys but my boats seem to attract dust like magnets. %%
If there was a market for Dust and Garden Weeds I'd be a wealthy man {-) {-)
Regards,
Ray.
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A little slant in the brass pins should not be a problem as the plastic will flex a little, but like everything, the point at which flex becomes break is not one we want to discover unless we are materials analysts!
Dust? GRRRRRRR >>:-(
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Yes Joe, due the her size I need the garage empty of the trailer tent to work on her. Plus it gives me a break to do other thinks and look at problems that will come in the summer when the decking goes on. Also the plans for the hunt class look nice and your build will certainly help me out too.
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It's taken all week to construct the mezzanine deck/supports, the main thing was to get all the support beams the same height so the deck would be flat, and as I didn't want to see anything holding the structure down I made all the locating pins an interference fit, so once it in place each joint has to be gradually lifted in turn till the whole thing is free, so there's no chance of it moving in the wind, well it has worked out quite well, when I first looked at the drawings this structure looked a bit daunting so I'm pleased it is now done and I can carry on making deck items till the weather gets warmer and dryer for painting.
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Looking really good, following your build with great interest, George
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That's a magnificent achievement Joe - you must have heaps of patience, and a good level workbench - well done. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
PS - Love the main deck level photo through the mezzanine structure. :-))
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More excellent work Mr Joe :-))
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Very practical, I have not seen that done before ;)
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Great looking build!!
This is great inspiration for me, you use lots of techniques I want to use on my build as well so it's great reading how to do this.
Greetings Josse
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I thought I would do the aft deck bulwarks next as they can be spray painted with the hull and of course easier to bond before painting, the mezzanine joints needed a little fettling to fit over the bulwark capping.
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Lovely work :-)) On the last photo, the depth of field is incredible for such a close up shot.
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:-)) :-)) :-))
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Easy little item today, one of the many roller leads, but the next item is not so easy, it's a three reel winch, again there is only two views plan and aft end, and it's complicated, I've searched the web for a photo of it which would help a lot to get a image in my head so I can try and make it look passable, but no luck so far.
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Joe, I've just started a search and found this - don't know if it'll help, we'll keep trying though...
http://wmunderway.8m.com/gallery14/k138c.JPG
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Ray, it's certainty along similar lines and gives me a few ideas. O0
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or if you look for winches used on ships I found these - not sure if the qualify
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Hi Joe, is this any help
john
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Thanks for the input guys, I have just found an image of the actual winch all be it a thumbnail, it's made by Parkburn marine handling systems, I think it's just big enough to help. The one on the old sweeper photo looks very similar.
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That will be hugely helpful Joe. I have worked with similar before now when designing AFVs, Trucks etc.
I love those bulwarks and the mezzanine is very very tidy.
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That picture of Fittleton is very sad. A good friend of mine was on her when she was rolled over by HMS Mermaid (although I didn't know him then). He still relates the experience now and then. Not something you forget easily I imagine.
Sorry for the sombre interlude Joe. I'm getting ever more impressed with your build - can't wait to see her!
Greg
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Joe,
Ill send you one of the pictures I have , Ive sent via private email as if I down size for the site you will loose the detail
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Hi Greg thanks, I've not been to the lake much the last couple of months I'm afraid I'm a bit of a fine weather sailor, when it's cold and damp I prefer to be in the warm building them. %% {-)
Thanks Dave got the photo, between that and the one I found I've got a reasonable image in mind, they make more sense of the drawings. :-))
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In the photo Dave (T888) sent me the large cable reel was there also and I could see a bit of detail that was difficult to see in the drawings mainly the disc brake on the strbrd side, so I redid that end to include the brake, or my version of it that is.
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Sorry for that, I thought I was helping Junior!
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You did help, Granddad, I thought it was worth adding the missing brake, well of sorts. %%
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Wow, those are gorgeous winches chaps. I like the subtle diferences in look you both have.
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I got a bit side tracked from the three reel winch when I found a little plastic ball when out with the dog yesterday, I thought how close it looked to the size of the radar dome, I had been wondering what to use for that, when I compared it to the drawing it was within .5mm dia. it looks bigger in the photo, so close enough, I couldn't resist seeing what I could do with it today, I think once it's painted it will do for me.
Now back to the winch, just making up the reels, and I turned the "master" windlass wheel out of laminated balsa, now curing in a mould.
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That ball was a good find Joe - is it squashed into place or trimmed ? (just curious).
I found one of those once (super bouncy type) and turned it into a pear-shaped fender for one of my fishing boats. This was then attached to a good length of "rope" and attached below deck, and will float free should the model ever go down thereby letting me see where it is.
Regards,
Ray.
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Please mister can I have my ball back please ?????
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Ray it's actually solid hard plastic, no idea what it comes from/off, dam good idea about the float. :-))
Dave, No you can't. %% %%
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With the float idea in mind, its a pity its fixed now, otherwise it could have been fitted with a cord and just sat on the cone, the cord passing through the tube to the deck with a suitably long piece of cord stored below deck, if she went down this would float free and indicate where the vessel lies. %)
What do you mean if she ever goes down - I don't build boats that sink. ;D
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Not sure if the ball I found would float being solid and with the P38 filler "skirt" I doubt it
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That is fortuitous! Someone must be looking after you Joe:O)
Regarding your Windlass, did you prime it before moulding? I ask because unsealed wood and balsa can be a "xxxxx" to remove as the silicone, despite being gloopey when poured, can squoze into the smallest hole or gap.
Fingers crossed for you.
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Ray it's actually solid hard plastic
Ah, now I see how it goes together - thanks for that Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Hi Ian, yes the balsa has a couple of coats of sealer, I expect the castings will be a bit rough using balsa but it is easy to shape, and they can be tidied up before fitting. ;)
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I thought you would :}
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The windlass drum casting was ok but was better after a bit of fettling, so a bit more done to the mechanical sweep winch, now apart from my winch having the three reels the rest is a work of pure fiction, mainly working from a single view thumbnail pic, but at least it is tucked away under the mezzanine deck with a lot of stuff around it, still got some bits to add to it this is it so far.
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Another work of art Joe. You are also trailblazing a method of making the beasties for us to follow.
Excellent castings :-))
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Some more done to the winch today, added the top roller assembly, I'm assuming this roller is for the cable from the large drum winch forward of this one to run over the top, never having served in the navy I don't pretend to know the function of every item on the vessel some items are obvious some not so, building for me is very much monkey see monkey do but there's no doubt knowing what something dose helps in the making of it, ordered some various size brass etch hand wheels yesterday for this winch and throughout the ship.
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Nice!
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Thanks Granddad %)
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Loving this :-))
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It is a shame that all this lovely detail will be partially Hidden under the mezzanine. It is like Brian 60's winch he built last year, all hidded away despite all the agonising over colour and the like.
Awesome work though.
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Thanks Ian, Agreed, but the way I look at is I know it's there and I enjoy pushing my limits. %%
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Ra! You will be 'Extreme model making' in lycra soon. %%
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Errr just imagined me in Lycra I'll have nightmares now. %% %% {-) {-)
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Errr just imagined me in Lycra I'll have nightmares now. %% %% {-) {-)
You're not the only one - posting that just before bedtime was very cruel. >>:-( <*<
But some lovely scratch building there to give us all sweet dreams, and I imagine the etched hand wheels will be the icing on the cake. :-))
Greg
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Nightmare time thanks Joe :-))
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For those of you who lack imagination
(http://i1118.photobucket.com/albums/k612/rebilda/FatGuyInSpandex_zps3396d513.jpg) (http://s1118.photobucket.com/user/rebilda/media/FatGuyInSpandex_zps3396d513.jpg.html)
Sweet dreams!
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Hullo Joe......you do have a wealth of detail here :o ...just need to understand it
1. the two hydraulic wire winches pay out from the bottom of their drums.....the wires pass through the stern pair of hawser openings
2. the single hydraulic drum winch for the electrical umbilical cable pays out from the top of the drum, pass through the two vertical yoke rollers that are mounted on the hydraulic wire winch with the umbilical cable resting on the stern yoke plate above the wire hawser openings
3. there appears to be a Drafing error in that the hydraulic winch requires a double helix payin/payout shaft, this double helix horizontal shaft must be mechanically linked to the shaft that supports the two vertical yoke rollers, as these progressively feed guide and layer the umbilical cable back onto the cable drum O0
Mind you whilst the components are deck mounted....they are termed as Under Water Weapons, where as my role was specifically involved with Above Water Weapons {-)... so my knowledge is severely limited :P.....
I hope this makes sense & have added a few notes in the images.............Derek
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Thanks Derek I was close with what I was thinking.
The brass etch hand wheels came today quick response from Model Dockyard,
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Oh they do add something extra son't they. Lovely work getting even luverlier:O)
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The hand wheels definitely add a finishing touch very nice :-))
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Wow that's wonderful detail on that winch!! :-) :-))
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Thanks for your interest guys, I'm making little items while considering what larger item to do next, there are still two fairly large single drum winches on the sweep deck to do again the drawings are a bit sparse on detail of these but knowing what they are I can use imagination on them, there are two items that I'm not sure of, maybe some one who has served on the Hunt Class can enlighten me,
Item 1 is on the stb, side of the sweep deck it looks like a double sided washing machine, it consists of a base with four small rollers and some sort of drum that sits on this base and is strapped to it.
Item 2 is on the front of the wheelhouse, a large circular item with a convex front to it, it appears to be fixed to the forward bulkhead and has a rectangular object under it.
Like I said earlier the function of something like a winch is understandable but some items are less obvious,
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Would the washing machine be an acoustic displacer?
Ned
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And the circular dome is the lowering sonar cover.
Jerry.
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Ned, it may well be, what ever that is %% %%
Jerry, yes I can see how that would work. O0
Thanks.
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Part of the CTA Combined Tow Acoustic.
Acoustic Hammer,Acoustic Displacer and
Pipe Noisemaker.
The last tells the tale.
Gubbins streamed well astern making all sorts of noises to
trigger acoustic mines.
Ned
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Cheers Ned, so item 1 is a kind of noise generator :o
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Which suggests the rollers stop the machine from making the same noise in the ship thus allowing off watch crew to sleep and preventing the ship from becoming a huge mine speaker. :embarrassed:
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Well here's my version of the acoustic gubbins, next I'll have a go at the winch just forward if it that probably works in conjunction with it.
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Hm, that looks like it could put out some serious bass.
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Certainly looks like a good interpretation Joe - on deck, it looks like it belongs. Well done. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Looks the business Joe a very nice washing machine ;)
colin
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Another winch done and one more to do, It seems like I've been making winches for months, I've tried to make this one something like the drawing but again with only a plan and aft end views to go by it's guess work, next is the last winch on the sweep deck similar to this one but smaller.
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Very nice winch Joe the brass work is very nice and crisp :-))
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Excellent work again Joe, you've really got the hang of the soldering game. Which brand of soldering paste are you using please? - I'd like to give it a try.......my attempts with ordinary solder tend to end up in large lumps requiring lots of filing down :((
Regards,
Ray.
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What Starspider said! I love that handwheel :-))
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Thanks guys, Ray the solder paste I get from e-bay tiny little pots, quite expensive, £3 or £4 for around 30 grams but it goes a long way on the sort of things we build, I assemble the item put a tiny spot of the paste on each joint and flash over with a mini gas torch, I find it a lot easier than wire solder, mind you the patience needed to assemble little bits of brass is something else. %%
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Thanks guys, Ray the solder paste I get from e-bay tiny little pots, quite expensive, £3 or £4 for around 30 grams but it goes a long way on the sort of things we build, I assemble the item put a tiny spot of the paste on each joint and flash over with a mini gas torch, I find it a lot easier than wire solder, mind you the patience needed to assemble little bits of brass is something else. %%
Oke doke, thanks for the info Joe.
I'll get the missus to order me a pot or two - she's the e-bay expert. ;D
Regards,
Ray.
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http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51682.0;attach=158958;image (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51682.0;attach=158958;image)
The little braces on the winch base plate! Such lovely work sir, you're an artist.
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Thank you for your kind comments,
Just finished the last winch, I think I'll make the fair leads fitted to her transom next, four are roller type and two are slipper leads kind of trumpet shaped, that's going to be fun, and they should all be ok to spray paint in situ.
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Silly as it sounds, but I think the lightening holes in the base make the model. It would be so easy just to make it from a solid block or from flat plate, but those ovoid holes add lots of detail. :-))
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As I said before when Joe was building HMS Coventry, he must have the patience of a saint, and the eyes of a hawk, cracking stuff Joe :-))
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I made the plug for the slipper lead, a fiddly little thing so thought I'd do a mould rather than trying to get two identical, while the mould is curing I made the center roller lead or rather my version of it, by the time it's painted I guess it'll look ok.
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That's another crackin' bit of work to add to your deck fittings - good work Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Now I know that we go to all sorts of measures to make our parts but Joe chopping the hands off poor defenceless
LEGO persons I think maybe a point too far. <:(
Apart from that another great item as capt Podge stated above
Colin
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Just finished the first of two slipper leads, this is the stbrd one the other one is not so high, looking at it now I think the cable retainer is a bit too big I may have to change that,
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Looks good Joe, the whole of the deck looks almost like a photo of the real thing
just needs to be grey :-))
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Thanks Colin, I should be able to get some paint on her soon the weather is improving,
I got the other two roller leads done and the closed slipper lead, that completes the sweep leads on the transom, so now must think about the painting.
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Joe you are one talented "xxxxx", that looks absolutely brilliant.
Think I'll give up and take up knitting <:( :-))
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Ooooopppsss looks like I used a swear word apologies if I offended anyone. :-X :embarrassed:
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Pure talent. That transom area looks really beautiful - well done that man. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Absolutely 1st Class Joe :-))....will all of the brass rollers still be natural brass surfaced after the assemblies are painted?.....
Applies to the brass bell mouthed guides too?.........Derek
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Thanks for your interest,
Derek, I'm not sure how to treat the rollers yet, in the photos I have they are black I was thinking they may be rubber or rubber clad to protect the cables so I'll probably paint them matt black.
I was going to paint all the transom gear insitu , but now they are all put in place they create so many little nooks that I now think I'll paint them off the boat.
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I was going to paint all the transom gear insitu , but now they are all put in place they create so many little nooks that I now think I'll paint them off the boat.
I would go with the latter method Joe - but, it's your call....
Regards,
Ray.
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Wow Joe, the amount of detail in the transom is amazing. Looks just like the real deal. Well done!!! :-)) :-))
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Thanks Dennis,
The more I looked at the moulded sweep guides the more I realised I wasn't happy with them, so I scraped them and tried again. I like the brass ones better and once painted it gives me the option to remove the paint in the brass area, I guess paint would have been worn off of these slip guides judging by the photos I have they look like brass or gunmetal.
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Joe I liked the originals but the new brass bashed ones do look the dogs bits :-))
Did you do a bit of spinning in a lathe or are they fabricated however you made them they look very good.
Colin
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Hi Colin, they are made of 6mm od brass tube, a bit of old prop shaft tube in fact, annealed and belled out with a taper punch then cut in half. :o
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Hi Joe Nice one. They do look the part, I look forward to your post as I always learn something. :-)
colin
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If you entered that model unpainted into the Model Engineer competition Joe, I am sure it would be placed highly with the different materials and methods of construction displayed. I saw the work of Brian King on Thursday and thought of you straight away.
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Thanks guys, Finally getting some paint on her, a whole can of Halfords primmer on the hull bottom, spent £30 in Halfords on paint last week that's why I never total the cost of a model, I don't think I could stand the shock.
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Looking good Joe all in the masking.If you were to cost all the items used like you said a big shock.
Stan.
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Good to see some paint on her Joe :-))
...and what price a man's happiness eh ?
Regards,
Ray.
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It's £30 Halfords ... try making swimbo happy with only £30
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And if you frequented a hostelry with friends every night, you would quickly filter £30 of beer through your kidneys :-)
How much of the money was sprayed on and then sanded away to reveal blemishes? I beleive the first coat of filler primer usually gets sanded completley away {:-{
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Joe,
I must agree with ballistanksian , It always pays to use a good filler primer before applying the top coat.
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The red primer is the finish for the bottom, it's all I ever use, I'm not looking for a pristine finish in keeping with it being a naval vessel in a harsh environment, but you're right Ian I'd much rather spend £30 on paint, being a non drinker dose help with that. %% %% %)
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The most expensive part of building my Alantis went on filler followed by paint then resin. Four tins of filler at about £14 or £15 a tin 3x tins of paint and one primer about another £28 and 2x resin add another £20 >>:-( ( all in euros)...... Is it worth it? DEFINATELY! :-)) .
Joe, your model is superb and you have inspired me with your build. Well done. I, like 21000 others am following this thread with great interest. :} ......... U2
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Thanks U2,
yes I can see why you would spend that much on a lovely finish on a yacht like Atlantis, yachts traditionally have a beautifully finished hull something seldom if ever afforded to a naval vessel. {:-{
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Finally got the top coat and boot topping done, the side modules on the well deck were painted separate and then glued in place, it was impossible to paint these in situ, at least with a large Halfords spray can, still a few bits to do to the superstructure before paint, but with the hull done I think she's starting to look like a ship.
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with the hull done I think she's starting to look like a ship.
...it's more than that Joe - she's starting to look like a WARSHIP. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Finally got the top coat and boot topping done, the side modules on the well deck were painted separate and then glued in place, it was impossible to paint these in situ, at least with a large Halfords spray can, still a few bits to do to the superstructure before paint, but with the hull done I think she's starting to look like a ship.
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51682.0;attach=159677;image)
That looks like it could be full-size!
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:-)) :-)) :-))
O0 O0 O0
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Looks brilliant Joe got to agree with Steve about the well deck :-))
Colin
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Amen, I can imagine the sound of machery humming and the wind blowing through off the sea.
Gorgeous work Joe, I know is largely grey, but the accuracy and crispness adds so much light and shade.
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Thanks for your comments guys always appreciated.
In between fiddling about with the power boat I been adding little bits of detail to Brocks superstructure that will blend in when painted, one very tricky job was the spurn waters and drains around the edge, I didn't want this to look too heavy, so the styrene strip is only .25 x 3.2 the 4 drains aft are tubes so in theory they could actually work.
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Joe,
Whats your plan for painting all the fittings and superstructure etc?, i'm thinking of the combination of wood and ply same as the Sandown i'm building.
Regards,
Rich
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Hi Rich, it will be treated the same as the hull, grey primer and grey top coat, all the ply was prepared before assembly a lot easier to sand then, so just the odd bit of glue to clean off etc. And all the fittings I've made will primed and painted prior to fixing in place, as I've said before I'm not looking for a beautiful finish I've worked on a couple of Type 42's and been up close to the Hunt Class MCMV'S and super yachts they are most definitely not. %%
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I thought I would have a go at the wind brakes on forward of each wheelhouse wing, I been pondering these for some time, there's a bit of compound curve on these , so I've been putting them off for a time, but I want them to be blended in with the painting, so I have to do them I started with some sections cut from a bit of flexible tube, and tested a sample glued to a piece of styrene with cryano and it stuck well, so anyway I've ended up with the wind brakes that should look reasonably close after painting.
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Hi junior,
I've been avoiding this as well
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Hi Dave I glad I'm not the only one, even given the scale I think this build is more difficult than the Type 42, but I guess that's why we do it.
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Joe, as you said in one of your post, a part of the enjoyment of model making, is to stretch your building skills.
I was thinking of using tubing cut back to give the round section or vac- moulding it around a forma. Quorn's is different from the drawings, photos I have looks as if they have modified it, it does not come back around towards the nav lights as much on QUORN.
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Yes Dave I have to confess I have modified them just a little, but who's to know. %% %% :embarrassed:
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Do what you need to do to finish the model so you are happy with it. It looks prefectly good to me:O)
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Looking good. Almost life like, though you can tell its not sure to it all being in too good a shape and uncluttered!
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I was about to prime the mezzanine deck and just in time remembered the overhead lifting track that runs around the sweep deck, and then back to detailing the superstructure my rule of thumb is, if it's glued to a flat surface like doors, vents. various pipework etc. I do it before painting, if it stands up from a deck, guns, winches etc. I do it after painting with the exception of bollards and fair leads, ho and the foc'sle water brake, ok it's a very loose rule of thumb, and she now has her pennant numbers.
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Looking good Joe :-)) Where did you get the pennant numbers from? I have got my draught markings from becc. Not sure if I can use them though, I thought they would be like the decals you get in a model aircraft kit. They seem to be on a heavy vinyl. Not sure on how to make them look proper.
Cheers Joe.
Phil
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Hi Phil, pennant numbers from BECC also,, I tend to over look draught markings, I did try some on my T42 but in my opinion they stood out too much so I removed them, I know some guys use the slid transfers and then clear varnish the whole hull to lock them in, but varnishing the hull is not something I do,
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Thanks for that Joe. I will try to locate the slide transfers, sounds a better bet. Thanks again Joe.
Phil
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Right now my little fun boat is finished I'm getting back to Brocklesby, I don't think it's a bad thing to have a break from a long build, but now carrying on from where I left it doing some of the detailing on the superstructure before spraying the primer, so cast some deck lights and making up some vents and fitted the fly deck supports.
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Hi Phil, pennant numbers from BECC also,, I tend to over look draught markings, I did try some on my T42 but in my opinion they stood out too much so I removed them, I know some guys use the slid transfers and then clear varnish the whole hull to lock them in, but varnishing the hull is not something I do,
By rights the gloss varnish should be applied before and after the decals are applied as this prevents silvering which is where diddy air pockets are formed in the matt/uneven surface of the primer and matt paints used under the decal. It also provides a good sound surface on which to apply washes and weathering. Johnsons Klear or Future floor polish is a very popular medium as it is water based but very resiliant to knocks as you would want a floor polish to be:O) You can even airbrush it :-))
Rule of thumb is:
Gloss varnish
Decal solution
Decal
Decal solution to soften decal and get it to go around raised details. In military modelling this could be grilles or anti mine paste (Zimmerit)
Varnish Gloss or Matt
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Watch out, Joe's got the soldering paste out again!!!! Seriously though, those supports look excelllent.
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the drains from the deck look rather nice as well with some very neat radii and neat soldering :-))
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As always thanks for your interest guys,
The task I set myself today on Brocklesby was the curious vertical drop sonar on the front of the wheelhouse, the dome was made by making a mould out of lite ply and heating a piece of .5mm styrene and pressing it over the mould, the rest was just to make it look something like the drawing, standing half way across the workshop eyes half closed it looks close enough. %%
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You would think that the sound waves would bounce off all the deck fittings etc.
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As far as I can make out the cable goes down though a duct and out the bottom of the hull, like I said it is a curious looking bit of kit, some bits of detailing for me is monkey see on drawing, monkey puts on boat. %% %% %)
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Oh, so it is the cover of a cable winch and not a dish. Makes sense now especcially as SONAR is a wet thing and not RADAR.
I'm a daft biffer :D
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Is it not a cover to be lowered to seal the opening if the dome needs to be lifted inside the hull.
Ned
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When operating the sonar the transducer is lowered out of the bottom of the hull contained in a rubber dome inflated by fresh water. When not operating the transducer is retracted, the fresh water pumped out thus collapsing the dome into the hull. The whole lot is then covered with the GRP dish like cover you show on deck. This protects the transducer and streamlines the ship.
Jerry. Ex MHDO.
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Thanks for the explanation Jerry. A very clever idea. Does the fresh water also improve detection capability? Brine and fresh water have different densities.
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The transducer needs to be in contact with the medium it is sending the sound waves through to work efficiently, however salt water is harmful to the mechanics hence it sits in freshwater. The sound is hardly attenuated by the dome material itself. Sound travels at a different speed in fresh water than it does in salt. This is allowed for in actual use. When transducer is down when mine hunting the vessels speed has to be kept below a certain level to keep the dome inflated and stop damage. The active rudder/ propellor operation achieves this. The transducer has to be retracted and the cover replaced before full speed can be used.
Jerry.
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The task today was the two aerial bases on the wheelhouse front, I thought these would be better made solid so they can be drilled for fitting the aerial later, it's getting near to painting the superstructure.
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So- how do they fit the cover, its on deck, does this mean someone has to dive below the waterline to secure it in position.
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No idea Warspite, like I say for some equipment on warships for me it's Monkey see, Monkey do.
Got some primer on the superstructure today so that's all the ply and white styrene gone, they say paint covers a multitude of sins but it can also work the other way round, drops of glue you never noticed before spraying become Ben Nevis, so I've got more prepping to do before top coat but then it is a warship and IMO actually look better somewhat less than perfect just like the real thing.
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Looking good Joe. It always delights me the difference a coat of paint makes. All those different pieces suddenly become a coherent whole and a model emerges. Not long now until she gets wet.
Greg
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drops of glue you never noticed before spraying become Ben Nevis.
That's true enough - adds a fair bit of time and effort to the build as well.
Still - progressing well Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Her she is in the ship hall
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Thanks for that Jay, it's good to see they have decided to keep her in service I believe there was some doubt about this after her pre refit survey when they found cracks in her A frames.
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Now we are using the Shed for the minesweeper refits we are no so dependent on the weather. It also might be dues to the fact that there is not much work on in the yard at the moment as we are still waiting for the new shore establishment, sorry carrier to arrive so anything to keep us not sat around all day is good
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Well at least a close resemblance, you have to imagine the shed.
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Nice, just a lot cleaner, tidier and less battered!
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It's not very often we get to see comparison pictures like that - nice one Jay.
And your model is looking super Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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took a photo of the pic in our internal BAE mag.Will keep an eye out for any more
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Are you going to deepen the black line and add the white to make her comparable?
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I'll probably leave my boot topping as is, when she's afloat it looks OK, I'm not sure the white line is a paint line in Jay's photo as there are other white makings under the hull, I have quite a lot of photo's of Brock non of them show a white line in her boot topping maybe Jay will know. %%
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Joe....before she was hauled up into the shed....there appears to be the tide line although she may have been light ship with low fuel & water
What sort of draft do you plan?
Another great build on the way :-))....when all off those deck attachments are fitted........... Derek
PS...just read your post....the temporary white lines are survey mark lines [possibly for NDT of aged welding] .....you can see the athwart ships white lines under the hull
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The white lines have appeared on all the RN ships to aid divers when doing a survey. The tide/scum line is frequently found if a ship has been sat in the harbour for a few weeks
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I was always told the White line are to help divers when inspection of the hull
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They are divers lines and the hulls are made of glass fibre so welding might be interesting....................
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All the photo's I have of Brock are operational load so I expect the white line is just below the surface, I may add it to the bottom of the boot topping we'll see,, and as you quite rightly say the hull and deck is GRP.
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Worse bit about the GRP hulls is that when they have stripped the paint off in refit the ships internal lights glow through. Most unnerving
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Well Brock,s been afloat for nearly half my life, testament to Vosper Thorneycroft and British workmanship I'd say
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Forty years that along time for a plastic ship
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Hmmm, there's always one ain't there <*< 34 years if one don't mind %% {-)
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Though that would get a quick response Son !!!?
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{-) {-) Thanks Dad %%
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I've reached the part of the build that I enjoy the most, deck items that were made months ago are now painted and being fitted to boat and you see it all coming together, I decided that on this one not to detail the wheelhouse and light it up I have done this on other builds and so rarely gets used I don't really think it's worth the bother, instead I've put more effort into the deck items that are more noticeable.
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I thought I would also tackle the smoke unit today and decided to make it easily removable, so I can maybe use it in another boat or sail without smoke etc. it's the 6 volt plastic one and is so light it should have very little effect on the ballast, it sits in a tray suspended from the combings, quite happy with the smoke from the funnel, with a bit of way on her the motors will be working harder with a bit more throttle plus more smoke.
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Great idea Joe. I am unsure about lights as I have never been to a night sailing and no show I have attended has been dark enough to display lights.
It will also simplify the electrogizmology required for your model.
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Hey Joe, haven't been on here in awhile. You have made some serious progress. Looks amazing with all the details. Well done!! :-)) :-)) What kind of smoke gen is that? like the fact its lite weight.
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Hi ya Dennis good to hear from you, how's things across the pond, yes the ship's coming together now though I still have a lot of deck items to make, The smoker is the old smoky V3, 6 to 8 volt version, from Austrailia not cheap but sure do the job, available on E-bay :-))
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Thanks Joe, been looking for one for my maersk trein build. Thank you for the info.
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Update on Brock, I thought I would paint and fit all the items I have made over the last few months before starting to make the rest of her deck gear etc. just looking over the drawings I can see there are still a lot to make so still a few months in build, the sweep deck gear is just placed at the moment as there are cables to put on the winches etc. once the sweep deck is done she's ready for "sea trials"
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:-)) Well Joe I would say this is your finest build so far. The detail on the aft deck is outstanding and a credit to your workmanship. Great build Joe. Have been following in the back grown.
Regards
Paul.
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I'm running out of superlatives for this build now - suffice to say that last photograph gives a good indication of how much work has gone into this model to date - Great work Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Some parts do not look like models they are so realistic. My Superlative generator just started smouldering {:-{
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Thanks, I finished off the stern by fitting the railings, which reminded me of the next expensive items for this build the rail stanchion's, I haven't counted them yet but it's quite a lot, but I still have a lot of other bits to make so it will give me time to save some pennies.
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What a cracking model this is turning out to be - lovely job Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Arr Thank e cap'n, (curved finger touching forelock).
Bit more done to mezzanine deck still got the hold downs to do, when I worked in the dockyard I noted the RHIB's would often be changed due to minor bits of damage and very often were replaced with one's of a different colour, I thought I would do the same on Brock.
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And dsepite their muted tones they do add colour to your model as do the floats.
Lovely Joe:O)
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Just out of interest Joe, what did you do in the Yard? I'm an ex Devonport Boy myself (20 yrs), Fitter and Turner by Trade, before coming to Oz. I did go to HMS Sultan a few times on courses, staying at B&B's in Southsea. Dockyard Club was our usual haunt, 78 pence for a pint of Harp Lager if I remember correctly....Happy Days! :}
Excellent work, as usual, please keep posting.
Nige
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Looking really good Joe :-))
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Nige, I'm a Carpenter and Joiner by trade and worked for VT before they were taken over by BAE in Portsmouth Dockyard where I was when I retired, prior to that I was with Camper and Nicholson yachts ltd for sixteen years . :-))
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prior to that I was with Camper and Nicholson yachts ltd for sixteen years . :-))
Very nice yachts Joe :-))
[size=78%]don't suppose they had an employees purchase scheme [/size] ok2
colin
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{-)
As they say Colin, "a boat is a hole in the water you pour money into" I prefer the one's you can carry home and put on a shelf. %%
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Didn't Camper aand Nicholson build MTsBs during the war? Perhaps it was something else.
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They did indeed Ian, MTB's, MGB's, armed fishing boats, landing craft and even commando canoes.
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{-)
As they say Colin, "a boat is a hole in the water you pour money into" I prefer the one's you can carry home and put on a shelf. %%
Are you related to my wife by any chance Joe ;) only she has a similar saying.
Must admit it is easier when you can carry them home and put them in .the shed.
Colin
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It was a saying we often used at C&N, at that time it cost £68 per foot per year just to get a berth on our Marina, but I guess if you can afford a, say 40 footer your not going to worry about £7.50 per day.
My task today was to get the radar fitted and working, I made the radar yesterday and painted it, and after a far bit of fiddling and improvisation I did just that,
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fitted the anchors and some name plates, have to say not the best name plates in the world, but passable if you don't get too close, I've now fitted all the deck gear/fittings that I made over the last few months, so now I'll start making the rest of her gear and fittings.
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looking brilliant Joe and a fast build as well. Have started thinking about next winters project yet?
I have enjoyed my sailing at the very cheap end of the hobby lol
Colin
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Thanks Colin, there are still a lot of items to make for Brock, so will take a few more months to finish her, this will be my last warship build, I now have built ten boats, six of them are large warships, I simply have no room to keep any more, so as for next winter, I enjoyed scratch building my small Diva sport boat so I may do something like that or another Springer . ;)
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Gosport winters must be very short if its just a Diva or Springer {-) {-)
Ned
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Well we are in the deep south Ned %% {-)
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Awesome work Joe. "If you don't look too close" _ I would be happy to look closely for hours. :-))
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Hm, I think that the Radar drive is going to cause you lots of trouble as it looks fearfully complicated! I like that system very much. I assume it is made from readily available components from people like Squires or Bonds etc.
Lovely work Joe. I am very sad that Brock may be your last intense build as I really enjoy reading your blogs, but I respect your rational and will relish the remaining posts of this project <:(
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made a start on the rest of the deck items, the first three items are quite large so decided to make three instead of moulding them it's fun making them and they are a lot lighter, I'll make small batches of six to eight then paint and fit to boat, the more I study the drawings the more items I find.
We have a SWA exhibition next Saturday at the D DAY Museum Portsmouth, I think Brock is far enough advanced to display as an inbuild exhibit and I'll take HMS Coventry as well, I'm cutting back the number of boats I take to shows, getting large models up and down two flights of stairs at home is only part of the deal.
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I'm cutting back the number of boats I take to shows, getting large models up and down two flights of stairs at home is only part of the deal.
<:( <:( <:( <:( That is very sad to hear Joe. Have you no garage that you can put them in? Obviosuly in good stout damp proof boxes so the spiders and other creepy crawlies cannot pooh on them.
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A logical suggestion Ian, but for me exhibitions are just a small part of the hobby, I like to see my completed ships around my workshop and choose one to sail now and then, if I stored them in boxes I'd probably only see them three or four times a year, I just have to face it at 71 I just can't do as much as I used to
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Excellent point Joe. We all get something diffferent out of our hobby.
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Got a couple more deck items on before the exhibition at the D-Day Museum Portsmouth, the combination of a very wet day and free admission to the Museum for that day meant quite a lot of visitors.
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A splendid job Joe. I can't wait to see her in the [plastic] flesh!
Greg
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Thanks Greg, I hope to try her out at the lake next meeting, 8 July weather permitting. :-))
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It is good to hear that loads of people saw your and fellow modellers work. If it inspired even just one person to take the hobby up then your effort was worth it.
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Looking really good Joe :-))
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Had a few days break from the build and now starting to make the rest of the deck fittings/gear, the first item is on the sweep deck I have been reliably informed is a hatch, though to me it seems oddly complicated and over engineered to be just a hatch, but like I've already said some of the bits I make are( monkey see monkey do ) and as long as it resembles the drawing I'm happy with that, still a lot of items to make so should keep me busy for some time yet.
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It looks like an equipment hatch perhaps for access to electrical gubbins? Anyhow, it looks fiendlishly complicated and am impressed with the result :-))
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just looking at the item and picture, I think your wrong, sorry - mistaken, the bottom piece is a spacer with the square plate at the bottom on the floor with the holes for bolting to the floor as you have it, but then there is another square plate on top of this with the fillets to support, then the casting on top of that has a matching plate with the same hole pattern with the cut outs in the casting for the bolts - so I think there are two plates missing at the top of the bottom straight piece.
Just my opinion, as I look at it the bottom is a upstand spacer, with the tapered casing bolted onto this. I could be wrong.
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Also the drawing is wrong, the side elevation and front elevation for the tapered casting should be the same as the hidden lines are for the inner fillets, should have shown a section through to make it clear on the drawing.
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As Captain Manwaring would say "I wondered if anyone would spot that" LOL. yes your right, I noticed my mistake this morning and corrected it, the annoying thing was I'd already cut out the other plate, like I say if it resembles the drawing I'm happy.
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:-)) %)
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Warspite is correct Joe...... the images of the plan, elevation and end elevation on Drawing 219.jpg have been drawn incorrectly
Suffice to say you now have an updated MK27B thing ame bob, where as the Drawing obviously show the earlier version as the MK27A O0
Probably Top Secret in their day...so must not talk too much about it <*<.........Derek
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Well at least I've ended up with a "thing ame bob" Derek %%
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Well at least I've ended up with a "thing ame bob" Derek %%
Did Gracie Fields have anything to do with it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2xrfbKTG_xE
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I new that Lizzie [QE II] worked as a motor mechanic during WWII, O0
....but didn't know that Gracie worked in a Munitions Factory making 'thing ame bobs' {-)
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Well Derek, she never made the Thing ummy bob it's self ,she was the girl that makes the thing
that drills the hole that holds the ring
that drives the rod that turns the knob
that works the thing-ummy bob
That apparently won the war,,, {-) {-) {-) %%
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Been making a few of the various vents using whatever worked, I moulded these upsidedown to make extraction of the casting easy, all I have to do is sand the excess off the top and add a couple of pieces, I always make sure I don't over fill the mould too much so there's less to sand off.
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Wise decision Joe. Resin can be cut and filed quite easy, but more sprue equals more waste especially as resin isn't a cheap material.
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just had this come into the workshop. Upper deck speaker
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1:1 scale? Can I get one from Cornwall Model Boats ok2
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Well the one on the aft bulkhead is similar, LOL
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I've not done much to Brock for a while, my workshop is a double dormer with a large flat roof and gets quite hot up there in the weather we've had lately even with a fan blowing full blast, but I did manage to get to the lake this week for her first trials only to find the annual weed problem had struck, wide spread and just beneath the surface, but still managed to get the results I wanted, even though she wasn't trimmed that well and was about 10mm high in the water she was quite stable and responsive, the bow thruster worked great, but the inevitable happened and her props got well and truly fowled up after 5 minutes or so, enough to lose steerage but with the small amount of thrust left I got her to the side with the aid of the bow thruster, so glad I decided to fit one, lifted her out to clear the props and had one more go with the same results, but I learned enough, the 10mm high is fine as there is a lot of scope for the rest of deck items which need to be made and fitted, and she has no ballast except the running gear and battery at the moment, so to spite the weed I'm happy with the results
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I am happy to report to the assembled multitude that HMS Brocklesby is as fine a model as she appears in the photos. Despite the weed ( >>:-( >>:-( <*< <*<) she looked the part steaming around and the bow thruster spins her on her axis. Lots of intriguing little spaces to peer into and all the details are beautifully done. Lovely job Joe! :-))
Greg
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HMS Brocklesby steaming? :o....the only steam would have been the MEO trying to understand how those opposed cylinders in the Napier Deltic engines were ever approved for marine use {-)
She does look superb on the water Joe........ Derek
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I think Greg meant "steaming" as figure of speech %% %%. But thanks to you both for your kind comments.
See you at the lake Greg, don't forget to dust off the swamp dawg we won't be beaten by the weed >>:-( <*<
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She looks cracking Joe very nicely done :-))
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Gorgeous both at a distance and closeup as attested to by the in progress images.
:-))
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Grateful to you for those on the water photo's Joe. She certainly looks quite stable O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Stunning work Joe, she certainly looks the part. :-))
The weed is annoying, our Club had to abandon one of our lakes because of it, Council refused to do anything to solve the issue, despite the fact that we paid for the privilage of sailing there. Our main lake now is very good, with minimal fouling......got to watch out for the Turtles though, little heads pop-up once in a while.
Nige
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Guys thanks for all your kind comments, always appreciated. :-)) :-))
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Stunning Joe, absolutely stunning! Well done. U2
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Not done much to Brock for a while, I've been catching up on some home redecorating ugggg, the hints from SWMBO were getting more insistant, LOL and as I've decided this will be my last warship build I thought I would take my time with it and do bits now and then, so this is a few bits I've made recently ready for painting, the lockers will be bonded to the superstructure to make removal of same easier.
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Looking really nice Joe :-)) Why is this to be the last warship then? <:( I have had a great time watching your builds.
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Hi Phil, there's a few reasons really, I'm running out of places/shelves to keep them, yes I could put each one in a box under the bench in the garage, and get them out when a show comes up but I doubt they would ever get sailed plus it dose get damp in the garage in the winter, another thing is my workshop is in the Dormer so there are two flights of stairs to carry heavy 4 footers down every time there's a show, if I take just 4 to a show that's 16 flights of stairs just to get them down and after the show to get them up again and with my blood pressure and a bit of Angina I'm starting to find it a struggle, and the wife and I have been talking seriously about down sizing in the next two or three years, if this happens all my large warships would have to go so it doesn't seem wise to build any more.
Joe
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Selling your warships? <:( <:( <:( <:(
Thats a bit drastic Joe. Anyhow, look after yourself and make sure you have loads of fun, but try and find a new home that can accomodate a good proportion of your models.
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Hi Ian, Not on the cards yet just a possibility over the next two or three years, IF we go ahead with moving to a smaller property. ok2
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I trust you will not be denying us the pleasure of watching your builds, just smaller ones I hope. As Ian said look after yourself but keep building please.
Colin
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Cheers Colin, I doubt I'll ever give up building something or other, I enjoyed building Diva and Gopha Girl so if we do move to somewhere smaller as long as I've got a bit of space or shed I'll no doubt build something like them. ;) :-))
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You must have a shed Joe. I am sure we would all put our hands in our pocketses and help get you one if need be in the future.
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I may just hold you to that Ian. %% %% {-) {-) {-) {-)
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The latest batch of items now painted and fitted on board, ie lockers and vents, and also made a mould for the life raft canisters, not exactly the right shape but my version of them which should look OK when they are in the racks, there's four of them on the mezzanine deck, and four different ones forward so need to make the other mould next.
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I may just hold you to that Ian. %% %% {-) {-) {-) {-)
Think this might get expensive Ian {-)
Really like the new bits Joe especially the liferaft canisters
colin
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It's quite remarkable how those little items add "atmosphere" to the overall appearance of the model.
Regarding cannisters - I messed mine up when gluing together - had to use a hammer to split them for realignment. {-)
Your model is looking the business Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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I'll put a tenner in the pot :-))
The Brock is coming along nicely Joe. I like the rafts very crisp casting.
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Hey Joe, been awhile since last I say your build on here. Looks amazing on the water. Wouldn't know the difference from the real ship. All the details gone into this build is simply amazing. Well done!! :-)) :-))
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radiojoe
Your HMS Brocklesby is looking great . I gather getting closer to the water soon?
Regards
Sailor1
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Thanks guys, Hope all is well with you Dennis, I've not done much to Brock lately, we've been dealing with the problems of our elderly and ailing Labrador and had to say goodbye to her last week, so I haven't felt much like doing anything really.
I did a bit more on the aft life raft racks a couple of weeks ago they need finishing and painting when I get around to it.
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Joe,
Impressed with your mouldings, I have bought a resin starter to kit to start casting my own and hope they come out as good as yours.
Regards,
Rich
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Many condolences on your loss, hope she had a good innings
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That is sad news Joe. I wish you well and take your time in gettig back on things as this is your hobby and you have no deadlines to meet on here. We will wait patiently and eagerly to see your next progress when it comes.
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I know what you are feeling Joe, one of the worst possible. When my family lost our last dog it left a big gap, worse for me because I was stuck at work and didn't find out until late at night and never got the chance to say goodbye.
I wish you well and remember her with fond memories.
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Same here Joe, wish you and your family well. Lost of a pet is the same as losing a family member. Take care.
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Joe
superb double page spread in Warships magazine, which has just arrived in the unit showing Brock inside the refit hangar, she actually looks lost inside there. lol
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Thanks for all the thoughtful comments guys, really appreciated.
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Just got round to making a mould and casting the forward life raft canisters, four needed so eight castings, they are a different type to the aft ones, and have two different stowage's.
Joe
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Cool!
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Hi Radiojoe ,
I found A photo of H.M.S Brecon as Patrol Boat. May I ask have you seen a photo like this of the set up in the Hunt Class?
Regards
Sailor1
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Hi Sailor1, yes I have quite a few photos of the Hunt Class, as it's a scratch build I rely on photos for detail. :-))
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Joe, more pictures appearing of Brock having the Deltic engines removed and the latest diesel fitted, found them on the RN site on FB
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Thanks for the info Rob, who would of though that a GRP hull ship would be worth refitting after over 30 years in service.
Got a bit more done on Brock, the forward life raft deployment rack and stowage rack well my versions that is.
Joe
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Joe,
I think these are decoys containers and not life rafts. Looking good though.
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Thanks for that Dave, I wondered why they were different. %% %% %)
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Whatever they are Joe, they and their launchers are top notch :-))
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Joe,
I think these are decoys containers and not life rafts. Looking good though.
It would be interesting to find out more about those containers O0
Further to the above Joe, have a look at reply no.268 on page 11 of this log - there's a good view of the liferaft canisters on your plan.
Regards,
Ray.
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Got the latest bits painted and fitted to boat, now to pick something else to make next possibly the Paravanes or the fuel can stowage, the more you study these plans the more bits you find, so should keep me amused for some time.
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Looking good Joe :-)) its going to be a busy looking ship.
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That is becoming another first rate model Joe. It looks like the one I saw in Poole a few years back.
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Just back from holiday, I thought I would get back into building Brocklesby by making a few more of the simpler items, so here's a large cable reel located forward on the sweep deck, and another ventilator just aft of the mast.
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Welcome back Joe! How were your holidays? Did you drink responsibly and slap on plenty of suncream????
Your model making powers have not dulled during your sojourn I see :-))
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Joe,
Really impressed and thank you for responding to my message.
What colour have you painted the main deck is it textured?
Regards,
Rich
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Thanks Ian, I did drink a lot of tea but didn't need the sun cream well it was only the north midlands %) %%
Hi Rich, the deck is painted with Acrylic dark charcoal not textured but has three coats applied by brush.
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Been busy making a batch of deck items I think there's enough to paint and fit before starting another batch. ;)
Joe
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Lovely details Joe. It's the small things that really make a model, and Brock is shaping up very nicely! :-)) :-)) :-))
Greg
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Looks superb Joe well done
Can I ask what type of paints you have used on her and what colours especially for the Hull grey and the deck grey?
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Thanks guys, The hull and superstructure is painted with Halfords spray cans Poplar Grey, the deck is Humbrol acrylic Dark Charcoal three coats applied by brush, as you can no doubt see, but then I never try for perfection in the paint work the real ships certainly weren't. :o
Joe
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Joe,
Excellent work, and totally agree with your philosophy on painting, are you putting a varnish over the top? :-)
Regards,
Rich
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HI Rich, Never found the need for varnish I know some swear buy it, each to their own I guess. ;)
Joe.
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Another masterpiece on its way :-))
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Excelllent!
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Been pottering about making more bits for Brock, I've slowed down on Brock as she will defo be my last large warship, I look on her as a compilation of all I've learned from building my other five warships so I'll probably carry on and finish her eventually and maybe wait and see if we have enough room for her if and when we do move to a smaller place, I need to make a few more bits to make up a batch to paint other wise spraying is a bit wasteful. :-))
Joe
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I feel sure you will find room for this master build. I agree that this is your best work as I have followed all your builds. When completed I would like to know what you intend to do with the plans, as I have this model in mind but a different ship. One I knew in Malta like my Solebay. :-))
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Thanks Paul, as for the plans you can have first dibs on them but you'll have to ignore the scribbling's on them I tend to do little doodles of the item I'm making. :o :-))
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That will probably add value to the plans Joe, as you will have provided some ideas (obviously sensible given the finished products being built or cast) for the new owner.
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Thanks Joe, will gladly take them if your happy to pass them on when I complete that build. :-))
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Absolutely stunning - love these paravanes/ submersibles.
E
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Hi All, I've had another break from building Brocklesby, I hadn't realised it's been over two months, as they say time sure dose fly, anyway I've sauced some rail stanchions, it took a while to find naval pattern ones, I've gone for the brass etched ones and it was a lot to do with cost, there are over 100 on Brock so the turned brass one's were very expensive I think at one supplier they were almost a pound each, I got 198 etched ones for £20 it just took a while to snip them all from the frets, I've mounted half of them ready for spray painting the odd ones that have a brace soldered to them will be painted in situ.
So I've made a start with the Jack Staff this will also be painted in situ, the stanchions are going to be a fiddly job so will take some time, but then I'm in no rush to finish her. :-))
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Joe,
Nice build.
The paravane , is that mould in one peace or in two peaces and put it together ?
thank's,
Tom
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Thanks Tom, It's a one piece mould, the opening to fill and extract the moulding is on the under side so the flash can be sanded off, the mould silicon is very stretchy so the opening can be quite small.
Joe
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It's great to see you back Joe. She's a looker. Have you tried the Laing stanchions?
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Thanks Ian, I'm not familiar with those stanchions, the ones I've got are very reasonably priced and the expensive turned ones tend to snap if the get knocked while these etched ones will bend you can usually bend them back in position, so it wasn't just the price I had in mind. :-))
Joe.
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Hi Joe
It's James Lane stanchions and what they are - are basically a split pin - they are made from 1/32 half round wire. He does various scales this gentleman of stanchions. He also does a small selection of etched fittings. Sadly, he doesn't have a website though - he is from the 'old school' :-) and he works by catalogue.
I double checked this morning by ringing him up to see if he is still in business - as he is a retired professional model maker. He used to do models for people such as Swan Hunter Shipbuilders & etc. That is how he moved over into making fittings.
Hopefully, I can put a picture on of his address/leaflet - also - a page from the catalogue/leaflet :-)
One thing to mention all the stanchions now are 17 pence each - and also the wire for the handrails - has gone up to £2 for a 20 foot coil.
John
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Hi Joe, its me again - I forgot to say, I have used James Lane stanchions for many of my models - I find they are a bit tougher than the brass etched ones and as you say - if the railings are attacked and become a peculiar shape - they can be straightened up once more with pliers and it does take some force to snap them - especially if you put a tab of solder in between the rails and stanchions on every other one.
john
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Thanks for that John, I've made a note of the phone number etc. for future reference, I seem to remember some one in the SWA used split stanchions. :-))
Joe
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I used brass ones on my original Novgorod but made the mistake of using thread instead of wire for the rails, so each stanchion was basically left to fend for itsself without mutual support, so can now see why they are stronger with wire rails.
FYI, I have started a topic on the pros and cons of doing the railings folded down or up. (This is to keep Joe's topic on his build)
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Finally got the Parvanes painted and installed, Started fitting the etched stanchions after painting them and thought better of it they are so flimsy I think the wind would bend them, so I'm getting the James Lane one's when I can reach him that is tried phoning today but just got answer bot. I'll keep trying. :-)
Joe
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Hi Joe
If you cannot contact James Lane by the phone - drop either Capt Podge or Nemesis an email on this forum - as they belong to Tynemouth Model Boat Club and so does James Lane - he may be there on Sunday. You could try a bit later on, as he does work from home.
John
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Lovely work Joe, if you didn't know you'd be fooled into thinking its the real boat. :-))
I'm really going have to start using resin moulding to make some of the future fittings.
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Thanks John I'll keep trying, I don't expect he's sitting at home waiting for my call. :o
Cheers Nick good of you to say so. :-))
Joe
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Contacted James Lane this morning and had a chat about the stanchions etc, and sent off the order the old school way, it's so long since I've ordered anything that way it took some time to find my Cheque book, glad I decided not to use the brass etched ones, there probably not so bad for 1:96 or a cased display model but very vulnerable on a working model,
Joe
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Great to see you back building Joe. I thought Brocklesby was an impressive model on her maiden trip but I bet she will be a real gem when you have finished working your magic. :-)) :-))
Greg
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Thanks Greg, good to hear from you I hope you and the guys are all well. :-))
Joe
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While waiting for the stanchions etc. I thought I would finish the installation of the smoke generator, the tray it sits in is removable to aid removal of the main battery, there are two leads for the generator one is wired in with the ESC and one wired direct to the battery via a Tx operated switch, running with the throttle is ok but tends to need a lot of speed to get a decent amount of smoke at scale speed it's not so good, I prefer it switched from the Tx, it gives plenty of "Exhaust" that judging from the Hunt Class I seen leaving the harbour is fairly realistic, well the Deltec's were getting old, it also looks more realistic when on the lake with a bit of wind.
Joe
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It is fun working out the layout of a model's innards. As ever Joe, it looks tidy and practical.
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Looking very nice and neat Joe. Going to look the part on the water :-))
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As always thanks for your encouraging comments guys, Yes I think fitting out the internals and making everything work is what I like doing most even though they rarely see water.
The stanchions from James came this morning, first time I've used split pin type and I do prefer them to brass etched ones, so to start the railings etc. I did round the well deck, I suppose it came out reasonable by the time it's painted, with the tight corners and short runs it's probably the trickiest area the rest of the ship are mostly straight runs.
Joe
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I quite like them Joe. There's something more realisitc about a thicker stanchion, and the scale you are building to makes them look more slender.
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Nice work Joe, she is coming along very nicely indeed. I hop my version of the ship will be as detailed as yours, once I have finished my current build. Paul
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Thanks Paul, You have a fair way to go on Lusty but you've made really good progress so far, as I've said before you have my admiration for taking on such a large complicated build.
Done a bit more railings today, getting a bit more used to this railing system and the straight runs are easier especially in 1:48, I think 1:96 would be a lot more fiddly, I've soldered every intersection with a tiny bit of paste it makes it quite sturdy. :-))
Joe
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Smart as paint Joe :-))
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most of the railings done now, just the mezzanine deck and the bridge deck railings to do and then a few more parvanes and a lot of fine detailing, just noticed she's taken 18 months so far, I think she'll take up to two years.
Joe
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She looks beautiful Joe, I would recommend you keep this one, put into a nice glass/plastic cover and take her to show, and have a nice place of honour for her in one of your rooms. Brilliant piece of work and high skill levels for all of us new builders to the hobby can learn from.
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Thanks Paul, Yeah still enjoying building Brock, I don't think you can still call your self a new builder having taken on the scratch build of a hull most would have shied away from. :-))
Joe
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A bit more railing done to the Bridge deck and the deployable nett out riggers on the gun wings as I'm building Brocklesby as commissioned long before she had the Phalanx's and the armoured shields, or at least my version of them, I was going to make them swing out but in reality they would never be used so they are fixed and a lot easier to do.
Joe
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Nice Joe, very nice :-))
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Hi Joe
Lovely work with the detail, where did you you get the netting from? It looks so realistic! :-))
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Thanks guys, Nick the netting is some that my wife had for ages, till I found it that is, not sure where she go it, it could probably be a tad smaller.
Joe.
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Phalanzes? Really. Those are big beasts, crikey, with those she wouldn't need any other armament %%
Lovely progress Joe. Those Stanchions look the business and will consider these for future projects.
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I think you will find that Joe is referring to the M134 Minigun, or 'My First Gatling Gun' as Toys R Us would refer to it. As opposed to that honking great missile killer with the big white dome on the top!
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yes your quite right, senior moment couldn't think what they were called, Minigun port and stbrd. instead of the 20mm oerlikons she had originally.
Joe
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My favourite weapons Gatlings. I recently made one in 20mm (1:76th scale) for a company, and am designing a Vulcan for the same company at the moment.
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A bit more done to the railings, started them on the mezzanine deck, also started to make the petrol jettison stowage and made a mould for the six petrol cans again my version of it, "all the right bits but not necessarily in the right order" as our Eric would say. %%
Joe
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Fancy the Navy not having diesel outboards. Looking fab as per usual Joe. The rack is a nice piece of work.
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I was going to buy in some ladders but cornwallmodelboats were out of stock, it was then I convinced myself I was being lazy so set to and made the first ladder, a bit too generous with the paste, I'll file some away before painting, also did a bit of the plumbing.
Joe
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Not bad at all Joe. Fiddly things are ladders :-))
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made the first ladder, a bit too generous with the paste
Joe
Practice makes perfect Joe. O0
When I made the ladders on the Smit Nederland I used a blow torch to apply the heat. First attempt blew the rungs away from the uprights. {-)
Second attempt, used a more gentle approach and - hey presto - 1 pretty good ladder. :-)
Nice look to your plumbing job by the way.
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks lads, yes I know what you mean about the blowtorch Ray, I use a gas pencil flame torch and just use the very end of the flame, to be honest I think my paste is a bit past it's date I've had it a long time and it's getting a bit thick not sure of the shelf life but I've most likely had it over two years, wonderful stuff though. :-))
Joe
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Joe......that brass tube work is :-))....truly horizontal and vertical O0...[the only way any pipework should be....it's really no different to building a brick fence......I am sure you know what I mean]
Is that particular horizontal tube run, with the vertical uptakes at each end an a electrical conduit?
Derek
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Hi Derek, I believe they are piping that link the three foam fire fighting tanks, the tanks hold a chemical that when mixed with water make the foam, we had a similar system on some army work boats when I was at BAE, they had a monitor at the bow a tank holding the chemical and a pump that drew sea water and mixed it to make foam.
Joe
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Got a few more bits made and fitted this week, Ladders, life ring stowage's, fuel can stowage and fire hose stowage's or more to the point my versions of them, the fuel cans red paint is still tacky so stowage is empty.
Joe
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Super effort on detailing. Those hoses look so real, in the stowages, from the photos you give the impression they are made of the actual fire hose canvas. :o
Good on yer, Joe. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Ray, yes the fire hoses are a strip of 2mm x .5mm styrene rolled up with a spot of glue here and there to stop them popping open and painted with a tan/grey mix, I'm glad you thought they looked like hoses as that was the look I was trying to get.
just noticed I mentioned the empty fuel can stowage and forgot the photo, the fuel cans are still tacky this morning, the Humbrol red enamel seems to take days to dry, but then I've had nearly all my pots of paint years so most likely past there best.
Joe
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Thanks for putting that photo up Joe, it gives a good viewing angle of your life ring framework - looks accurate.
Regards,
Ray.
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It took several days for the red jerry cans to dry so maybe time to bin that pot of paint, but jerry cans now in place and a couple more small detail bits made and fitted, next I going to attempt to make the manual hoist on the port side.
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Brilliant work as ever Joe. I reckon everyone has certain colours that get used infrequently. Someone building fire vessels or those with many monitors will get through loads of red, while greys may go off. I find Flesh, and blues go off through infrequent use.
The fire hose is special, I see Ray's point, you used some good paint effects to get that fabric look on otherwise smooth strip :-))
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Thanks as always for encouraging comments Ian, I used a full 300mm strip of 2mm x .5mm to make the hoses, I first roughed it up with 180 grit before rolling and gluing after painting I was quite pleased it had the effect I wanted, it's good to hear others see the same effect in case I'm seeing what I want to see, if you know what I mean. %%
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Aye ok2
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Just finished my version of the manual hoist on the port side, next I've got the last bit of railing on the aft end of the mezzanine deck to do then the tedious task of painting all the railings.
Joe
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This model is an absolute stunner, hats off , %% really...
E
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That's a beautiful piece of soldering Joe :-))
Sometimes it's a shame to paint the pieces as seeing the construction of items is art in its own right.
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I agree because only Joe and we will know the amount of work that went into it. Years ago when if you wanted to build a ship model you had to do all of it yourself including the electronics, everyone knew what was what and understood. With the breadth of kits and accesories available today, it is harder to prove something is scratchbuilt.
I think it is our treat to know it is built from rods and tubes like the real thing :-))
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All your comments are much appreciated, Done the last bit of railing on the mezzanine deck and painted by brush, still got the main deck railings to paint a little at a time I think. ok2
Joe
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Still watching and admiring Joe. :-))
Greg
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Cheers Greg, hope you and the guys are well.
Joe
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As always Joe, a superb job, clearly inspiring many other Guys to crack on and "have a go". :-))
1/48th clearly offers the opportunity to go that extra mile in adding detail. Can't wait for your next installment.
Nige
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Thanks Nige, Yes I do prefer 1:48 it's easier to work on I wouldn't have attempted to make things like the Oerlikons in 1:96.
Joe
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A bit more detailing done to the back of the mast and stbrd. side mezzanine deck, I'm keeping the aerials shorter than the drawing shows for ease of transporting to water, this one on the mezzanine can fold down, but there is still four more to do that will also be shorter.
Joe
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If the real thing has a folding mechanism, why not use it in minature. You can bet your last pound that one would get caught on a sleeve or on the boot lid >>:-(
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Hi Joe, the amount of detailing being added to this model is great to see. It took a couple of glances at the second last photo to realise that section was off the model. :o
Also noted the addition of the cable on the drums underneath the mezzanine deck and the roller feeding the cable on. :-)
Ref the antennae - I put thin plastic straws over mine. This helps protect the eyes while moving the model in / out of the car and, because the straws are blue, they are easily seen whereas, with the straws removed the antennae tend to blend in with the white superstructure (on my model anyway).
I imagine there are a number of ways of dealing with this problem though - maybe removable units?
Regards,
Ray.
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Good point about the straws Ray, I've also seen corks put on the tops of aerials, it was a problem when I used to exhibit ships someone would point to something on a boat and catch their sleeve on the aerial of a boat in front. {:-{
Joe
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I've been noticing the superstructure is getting more tricky to put in place, it has to be carefully lined up to miss railings and some fittings that are almost touching it, so taking it off and on to switch the rc on and off will eventually cause scrapes and scratches to the sides, so my task today was to retro fit a disguised switch on deck somewhere, there are two switches one for the bow thruster esc and one for the main esc, after a bit of head scratching I remembered I had a length of Bowden cable left over from the rudder control, This made the job quite a lot easier once I had got it though a void on the stbrd side of the well deck, the two switches were linked together and the outer end is disguised as a air duct that is pushed forward to switch on and pulled back to turn off, seems to work very well, glad I did it, it'll save a lot of fiddling at the waters edge
Joe.
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Joe,
That's why I've mounted my switch and umbilical coupling under the two locker at the front of the bridge.
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Hi Dave, yes it makes sense doesn't it, originally I wasn't going to have a remote switch on this one as the superstructure lifted off and on so easily, but now there so much gear close to it needs must, and now I've done that I've got to make the radar switchable from the Tx as I've already done with the smoke gen.
Joe
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That's a nice and neat solution for the switches Joe - The vent looks like it's meant to be there. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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I knew this topic was worth getting another pack of Hobnobs in for! Any technique that reduces damage to a model before it even gets on water has to be a winner.
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Thanks Ian, pass the hobnobs mate can never resist them,, After putting the esc's switch on deck and already having the smoke gen switched from the Tx. it seemed pointless to have the radar with a manual switch inside, so todays project was to make the radar also switched for the Tx. so now the superstructure will seldom have to be removed except for charging the battery, I could probably find somewhere on deck for a charging socket but not sure yet if I'll bother with that.
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It is good that you have been able to retro fit these systems without having to hack the model about too much Joe.
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Yes I think that's another reason I like the 1:48 scale there's plenty of room to work on it, I know I could of used a switcher like the P91 or P96 but I bought a job lot of micro switches a couple years ago and still have some left, they were only a few pence each because some didn't work, but you only have to ease the side cover off and bend the over centre spring slightly and they work fine plus I always have a few mini servos in case I need one, I tend to be old school when it comes to electrickery. %%
Joe
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Tell me about it, I wired in a speed controller this morning and cannot get anything to sit flat because of lack of space.
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Generally speaking I'm studying the drawings and picking detail items to make and fit in between painting sections of railings, the later is quite tedious, so today I picked the aerials forward of the wheelhouse, again these are not scale length to make transport easier, they are made of spring steel, so very flexible and the bases are also flexible, made with layers of heat shrink of various sizes finishing with a grey doesn't need painting that would no doubt crack with flexing, so these can take the odd knock without damage.
Joe.
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hi ya Bob, beautiful build this. I have enjoyed it right from the beginning. You know your aerials are you putting beads on the top as eye protectors. The reason I mention this is - all of the aerials I use I either put a bead on the top or a bit of electrical cable insulation glued on the top. Reason I do this, I was at a show for plastic models - and I was looking at some beautiful submarine models - their aerials and periscopes had little beads on the top - beside them was a small card which had a drawing of a spike sticking out of an eyeball :-) WARNING - and next to that was a photograph of one of the builders with an eye patch on. :-) He had stabbed himself with the aerial in the eyeball whilst building the model. Apparently he had bent over the model and the rest is history - :-)
John
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Hi John, yes there's no doubt they are a hazard, I'll be doing what I usually do, at least while in build , I cut bits off an old eraser and place on top of them, I had considered making them removable but then there's the chance of losing them etc. on the odd occasion when I do go to water I prefer just to switch on pop in the water and sail.
Joe.
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on the odd occasion when I do go to water I prefer just to switch on pop in the water and sail.
Joe.
That's fine for you Joe, but what about the model ? {-) {-)
Seriously though, I like your idea with the "springy" antennae, probably look good in a head wind as well. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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A small blob of clear epoxy on the tip of aerial should prevent serious injury should your eye come in contact with it and doesn't detract visually. :-))
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That's fine for you Joe, but what about the model ? {-) {-)
Seriously though, I like your idea with the "springy" antennae, probably look good in a head wind as well. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
I wondered if any of you would spot that, well done that man, , as Cap't Mainwaring would say. %% {-) {-)
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as Cap't Mainwaring would say. %% {-) {-)
"Stupid Boy" is the other one Joe %)
(no offence intended mate) :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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"Stupid Boy" is the other one Joe %)
(no offence intended mate) :-)
Regards,
Ray.
Hi Ray ,, Don't Panic... Don't Panic,,,, Non taken. {-) {-) {-)
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I thought I would tackle the bridge window wipers, eleven fiddly little things, I think they are ok, viewed at a distance with your eyes kinda scrunched up, %% {-) and made another ladder for the bride roof.
Joe.
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They look the job to me Joe. Anyhow, at different abngles they would look a bit different so fret ye not.
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It's quite a nice stage of the build now with most of the hard stuff done, I'm just picking items on the drawing and figuring out how to make them by giving it some thought and looking though the odds and ends boxes to see what can be improvised, the antenna on the wheelhouse is just brass rod/tube, as are the ten snorkel vents, the three tanoys are improvised using the tail ends of .22 airgun pellets, and some lights on the mast I had though about lighting them but decided against it I can't see they ever being used, I'm now making the last fiddly ladder that is stowed on the mezzanine deck.
Joe
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I like the idea of the airgun pellets Joe, they certainly look realistic enough. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Cheers Ray, I'm always looking out for bits and pieces that may help me make a fitting or bit of detailing, the crown on top of the jack staff is a 2.5mm grub screw glued to the top upside down, finished the stowed ladder on stbd side of the mezzanine deck and the dan bouys stowed on the port side.
Joe
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Very very nice Joe. Looking really good. Cant wait to see it on the water. :-))
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the crown on top of the jack staff is a 2.5mm grub screw glued to the top upside down
Joe
Took me a little while to find it, but it's there alright - Reply no.557 on page 23 - looks ok to me... O0
...and that ladder looks the business too. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Really Ray, looking for grub screws you should get out more mate. {-) {-) {-) that paid you back for the stupid boy crack {-)
still making and fitting little details, fitted the snorkel vents, and what looks like an emergency binnacle, no doubt someone will tell us :-))
I must get around to painting the railings {:-{
Joe
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Ray wasn't the only one to look back and look for the jackstaff %)
It is fun getting the fittings ready but it does take a long time.
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Ray wasn't the only one to look back and look for the jackstaff %)
{-) {-) :-))
Joe
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Finally I resolved to paint all the railings, a tedious job but happy now it's done, now there're painted the James Lane split pin railings really look the business any joints that show in the split pin stanchions get filled with paint as do all the rail joints, I think they are value of money I'd certainly use them again.
Today I made the Ensign staff and started the stern light, I think it's about time for second sea trials, I'll check her trim in the domestic test tank first as she has had quite a lot fitted since the first trials and hopefully get her down to the lake during next week if we get a calm day.
Joe
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You have sold me on those stanchions Joe, they look good.
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Finished the Ensign staff and stern light this morning, then did another trim test, though she has been for a sail test sometime last year but the pond had just started it's annual weed infestation so it was a short affair, I knew she floated about right, went forward/astern and turned ok then her props got fouled so had to abandon that one, since then she's had a lot more fitted so I was a bit concerned about the boot topping, so I was relieved when she floated right on the bottom of the boot topping, as she almost fills the bath it's quite difficult to see if she's upright so I sight the main mast up with a vertical joint in the wall tiles with this method I could see she had a slight list to port, a further 3.5 ounces of ballast cured that, tested her bow thruster and motors/rudders etc. and all satisfactory, in fact she has a very pleasing sound in forward throttle, I noticed all the ships I've built have all had their own sound, so now waiting for a nice day and without the winds we've had here lately to do a long sea trial, I still have some items to make and fit but I don't think these will have an impact on her flotation.
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Nice day today so did the sea trials, when we got to the lake as is often the case there was a stiff breeze that made a bit of chop on the water, if she had been 1:96 scale I don't think I would have risked it, but Brocklesby is quite large so we decided to carry on, as soon as she was launched the wind was pushing her side ways but once powered up it was no problem the geared motors were more than up to it and had a good scale speed at full throttle, the bow thruster worked fine though worked hard to push the bow directly into the wind, again the wind was a bit too strong to get a good smoke effect it was working well but was dissipated quickly, the rudders worked well giving a good tight turn, all in all I was very pleased with her performance given the conditions, I sailed her for an hour with no sign of the battery going down, and the wife was snapping away with the camera, I had my trusty Springer in the car but she wasn't needed. :-))
Joe
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Hi Joe,
I assume that you already know, but I noticed Brocklesby making an appearance on 'Empire of the Seas' last week.
Fraternisation at Kiel week :-))
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Thanks Tony, I'll lookout for that maybe on catch up. :-))
Joe
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A brilliant looking model sailing on a brilliant day. It is probably one of the most realisitc models I have seen especially under the mezzanine.
It was worth every second of reading your blog to now see her all but completed Joe. It is a shame she's your last, but I respect your decision.
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A brilliant looking model sailing on a brilliant day. It is probably one of the most realisitc models I have seen especially under the mezzanine.
Totally agree with Ian on this one - a beauty of a model for sure.
Ref the latest photographs:-
In 3rd place : The ship turning to Port (and capturing the giant man in the white coveralls - optical illusion of course) {-)
In 2nd place: The image of the Port quarter, giving a good view of the myriad equipment onboard.
In 1st place : The bows-on shot, purely for it's realistic image. O0
Congratulations Joe (and SWMBO).
...AND, to have sailed on trials on the same day as HMS Queen Elizabeth - what an honour ! :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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Thank so much for your comments guys and your encouragement throughout the build, as I was sailing Brock I asked the wife to take a couple of photos, it wasn't till we got home and I uploaded the photos to the PC I found she had taken 49 pics, she said she was worried they may be blurred, in fact we only deleted 6 that were out of focus, the rest I was very pleased with and what a great job she did, 5 of the photos in the previous post were taken at around fifteen yards and have just been cropped, photo No 1, I took about 4 yards away with the boat at rest but it's certainly no better than the wife's, My favourite shot is the 5th one of photos posted with the bow wave, well I've still got a few items to make like a couple of larger Parvanes tucked in the sweep deck so I'll keep posting till she's complete.
Once again thank you for your interest in my build of Brocklesby. :-))
Joe.
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Very very nice Joe. Great looking model, and praise to your good lady on the quality of the pictures. Next up then is????
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Thanks Phil, Haven't really thought much about a next build, except it won't be a large warship, Brocklesby is the only one I have now I don't sail that much but when I do Brock is very satisfying, Downsizing to a new home is still on the back burner so if we do I'm hoping we can find a berth for Brocklesby, ok2
No doubt I'll get itchy fingers and build another Springer or something of a similar size. :-))
Joe.
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I have to admit at 71, getting large model ships up and down two flights of stairs was a major factor in selling all but one of my ships, and Brocklesby is still a struggle to take out for a sail, mainly the aforsaid stairs, gripping the boat with both hands picking my way down stairs did not feel safe and one slip would almost certainly result in major damage to Brocklesby and probably me also, so to make things a little easier I remembered I had a box cradle with rope handels that I used for my first 1:96 Destroyer so I cut out the profiles to fit Brocklesby and tried her in the cradle it was a lot easier to carry by the ropes one handed so I had a free hand to stready myself with the stair banisters, the trouble was the ropes were resting against the bullwarks and railings also the top of the rope was very close the the mast, so a few alterations were called for, a little thought and a few bits of ply later I now have a working transport cradle that is alot easier to get down the stairs and the sides give the boat some protection from knocking against my legs, of course with the weight of her and the cradle, care is a must but sure feels safer than it did. :-))
Joe
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Much better for you Joe and I am sure you feel more comfortable carrying her up and down. Every thought of having her displayed down stairs to save you going up and down. With your wood work skills I am sure you could build a nice shelf for her to rest on.
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yes Paul the thought had crossed my mind about keeping her downstairs but to be honest there really isn't a suitable place for such a large model, and of course I'm still working on her at the moment, Maybe I need two Stannah stair lifts now there's a thought. %% %%
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How about a Stannah Boat lift/seat combination?
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Wow brilliant model their!! :-)) :-))
She looks very good on the water :-) :-)
Dreadnought:)
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That's a really neat solution you have come up with Joe - safer for you and much, much safer for the model. :-)) Well done.
Regards,
Ray.
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Brilliant work Joe! Totally Brilliant!
She looks fantastic on the water (and 'Mrs Joe' is a very talented Photographer O0 ), incredibly realistic, you should be very proud of what you have achieved.
What is also worthy of a mention is the service you have performed for this Hobby in logging your progress in such a regular and precise manner on this Forum. Build logs such as this are a huge inspiration to us less talented modellers, and encourage us to get out to the Workshop and crack-on.
I have watched your build throughout and it has certainly had that effect on me. For that, I thank you!
Nige
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Totally agree, cracking build thread and a credit to your meticulous workmanship Joe.
Will be up this weekend to Gosport for some lake time if you are around.
Regards,
Rich
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101,211 views
Says it all really, Joe
Well done doesn't seem enough to say, but very very well done. :-))
Thank you for all the effort you've put into her build
Cheers
ken
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Well all I can say is thanks a lot guys, you know what without your comments and feedback a build log would be a lonely place, so thanks again for being there and taking an interest. :-)) :-))
Joe
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The number of views matches the effort put into the model. Well deserved Joe.
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I have learned much in my six years building boats, most of which has come from inspiring detailed build logs such as yours Joe. I sincerely wish you all the best :-))
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Had a few weeks break from Brock and been on a couple of holidays to Scarborough and North Wales, and now still making bits now and then, so here is my vision of the large parvanes the drawing shows she has six in three double stowage's, but I want to add as little weight as possible, so have decided to have just one separate one on each side of the sweep deck, to keep them light I'm making them out of balsa, each one is just 2.8 g. including the stowage, while looking at the stern I thought the sweep leads looked to unused and had always intended to remove some paint from the rollers, don't know if it works or not really but it done now and I kind of like it from a distance anyway.
Joe
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She has done a bit of sweeping! I should hope the crew would attack the rollers with paint as soon as an operation had ended, so I would expect to see the rollers shiney.
I like the paravanes Joe :-))
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Thanks Ian, I saw Brocklesby once when I was in the dockyard for an exhibition, remember seeing the stern sweep lead rollers and slippers and was stuck how shiny some of the gunmetal parts were so I've tried to simulate them.
Joe
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Parvanes fitted on board next I'll probably add detail to the mast, and figure out the two search lights I may see if I can buy these, I'll see what's available.
Joe
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These paravenes are true works of art...love the 'used and scratched' look you've created ! <*< <*<
Fabulous model, the photographs of her in the water look like the real thing !
E
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Thanks for your kind comments always appreciated. ok2
Joe
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Having missed a chunk of your build Joe she better than ever brilliant skills :-))
Colin
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Cheers Colin good to hear from you again, :-))
Been looking for some suitable searchlights for the bridge deck, didn't find any, so needs must I've had to try and make two, so I looked round the workshop for bits that might help plus a bit of lateral thinking, anyway the bodies are insulation from a 30 amp crimp fitting, and a couple of spare port holes and some scrap brass, I think I've got close to what I wanted, when dry I'll paint the inside white and put the lens in.
Joe
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Did a bit more on the search lights today and made the platforms, the handrails were quite fiddly nearly gave up on them a couple of times, thank god for solder paste. %)
Joe
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I'm not getting on with solder paste. The times I have tried it it seems just too thin even when scraping from the bottom of the jar.
Those lights and thir positions look good Joe :-)) I like the rod detailing.
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Hi Ian I'm surprised your paste is thin mine is quite thick, you can put small blob on the ends of the rods and use it hold the rail in place and flash the joints with a pencil torch.
Joe
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There just seems to be too much flux. I may have too much gap between the bits being soldered.
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That could be the problem Ian, the better fitting the joint the more efficient the paste is, it just runs out of a gap when heated. ok2
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Thanks for that tip Joe. I will be more careful with the fit of joints.
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Joe,
I like the ship You build.
Where can I find a book or/and photo's for detailling HMS Atherstorpe.
I am planning to build that minehunter.
Thank's,
Tom
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Hi Tom, Did you mean the hunt class HMS Atherstone M38 mine counter measures vessel, I never had a book, I got the plans from Jecobin the plan was for HMS Cottesmore , but all of this class are very similar and most of the details of HMS Brocklesby I got from photos found on the internet just do a search for HMS Atherstone and you should find all the information you want, hope this helps. :-))
Joe
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Thank's Joe,
I will use the internet for searching , yes it is HMS Atherstone .
Tom
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Well after a couple of weeks away at Blackpool and a stay with family at Warminster I thought it was about time to add a little more detail to Brock, so a bit more on the mast, the rose emblem on the funnel is not quite the right one but close, then I looked on line for a ships bell, I found a brass one for £2 that would have done but with postage etc. was nearer £5 and didn't even have a bracket, so I made one turned out of wood with a bead on top and a brass rod bracket, to reasonable effect.
Joe
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As we have come to expect another fine touch to a first class model.
'Ding dong' (Excuse the pun {:-{ )
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That bell looks ok to me Joe - the white rope "monkeys fist" sets it off nicely. Should do until you find a brass one anyway.
Keep a lookout for bells on toy fire engines, even in plastic they look ok.
Regards,
Ray.
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I really wasn't happy with my attempt at the ships bell, so I've removed it and replaced it with something more appropriate, I wish I could say I just turned this up yesterday, but as I don't have a lathe or the skill to use one for that matter, I can't say that, the accolade goes to one of our own, Colin, better known on here as Starspider, who very kindly offered to turn one for me, an offer I gladly accepted and sent him the measurements, A packet came yesterday with not one but three superb bells in it, I've had a cold this last week that I'm gradually getting over but couldn't wait to make a mounting bracket and fit one of these beauties to Brock, So thanks again Colin and I hope I've done justice to your craftsmanship.
Joe
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Have to agree with you on the choice you made on the bell. But to see the outstanding work on the replacement makes me envious as the scale of my HMS Illustrious at 1/96 scale the bell would never be seen. Really smart bit of work and the skill. Nice one. Set the bridge off nicely. :-))
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Amen gents, and as it is real metal, it has that extra touch of realism.
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It seemed a shame to put the other two bells in my spare fittings box, so I thought I'd fit one on my Springer, Skipper Sam seems very pleased with it he dose like a bit of bling {-) I've got one more bell left, ho dear, dose this mean I need to build another Springer. %%
Joe
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Or maybe another grey ship :-)) just thinking out loud %)
Colin
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Well Colin having built 6 large grey's, sold 5, and definitely keeping Brocklesby for my occasional sailing outing, I think I've used up the passion I think you need to build them and of course there is still the possibility we may move to a smaller property which is another reason I've decided not to build any more large models, that doesn't mean I've lost interest in building boats as a hobby on those cold winter days when going out for walks / bike rides or hopping on the bus and going somewhere seems less appealing, so having a project on the go in my workshop saves me from climbing the walls in winter, the odd afternoon sitting down watching telly is fine but every day would drive me nuts, so maybe something small like a Springer would do this winter I like using your imagination on the type of top, mmm Still thinking. O0
Joe
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Can understand the reasoning Joe storage is a pain in the *** but on a selfish note I do enjoy yours and many others build threads on Mayhem gives me something to do when Jill watches Strictly come prancing :(( and other dross. I shall await the winter project and you never know if I get Grumpys shed sorted I may start on my stash of projects lol.
colin
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A stash of projects I like the sound of that Colin, give us an idea of what you've got lined up mate, it may give me some inspiration. %%
Joe
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Oh dear a list could be embarrassing or deathly if Jill was ever to see it <:( but here goes.
Actuall full kits HMS Bramble, plastic kits matchbox flower corvette started in the 1980s when I worked for them,revel flower as well, Italeri S100 schnellboot,
Projects these are part built by someone else and need resto, HMS Arun will rebuild as Blackwater, M15 monitor, Assurance class tug brought finished but dropped it everything above deck exploded oops so needs rebuild,
Hulls and plans, HMS peacock, Tyne class lifeboat, small tug, puffer.
Sport 500 nearly finished for grand kids. In planning Roysterer tug, Archer/P2000 fast training drawings about 75% done for the hull.
About 25-30 plastic kits that I have some connection too or military stuff that family have some connection too. Plus a couple of r.c plane kits.
In my defence I do get bored easily so I tend to have more than one project going at a time %)
Going to Blackpool show next weekend ( visiting grandkids in Warrington) to look at the Shanon lifeboat kits lol taking grand son so he might fancy something as well lol oops
If something above takes your fancy let me know ok2
Colin
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That's an impressive list of projects Colin, are they just for this winter {-) {-) , I build HMS Bramble the build log is on Deans Marine Forum it's actually a sticky on the home page. ;)
we were in Blackpool last month we used to take a caravan there most years but now stay in a Hotel at least I don't have to cook breakfast anymore. O0
If you are like me it's all about the build and then the model just sits on a shelf with just an occasional sail/run, that's way storage is such a problem if I had not sold any of them I think I'd need another room by now. {:-{
enjoy your projects
Joe
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Yep this winter and the next 10+ lol and that's ignoring the rest of the wish list {-) still hopefully get the revamp of the inside of the shed finished this weekend and then make a start, just have to decide where to start. Yes it's the building I enjoy if it goes the same way as the planes etc.
Shall go over to deans site and have a look at your build of Bramble I can probably use it as an instruction manual going by Brock.
I shall look forward to the build no matter what you decide mate, with hind sight perhaps smaller is better lol.
Enjoy your weekend colin