Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Willit on September 03, 2015, 09:19:43 pm
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Many years ago my father, uncle and grandfather commenced construction of a Bustler tug, however for somewhat obscure reasons it was never finished, we don't even know what became of the hull. Sadly my grandfather recently died and knowing we had the plans I thought it would be nice to build a new one. Apart from the use of modern glues and tools I am also trying to build it as close to Vic Smeed's instructions as possible. Unfortunately the plans were very moth eaten so I invested in a brand new sheet.
Here is where I am to date. The hull is basically together, but it needs its stern tube and final filling and sandsealing. The hull for those unfamiliar with Bustler is bread and butter construction on a keel. The plans recommended 1/8 ply for the keel but the sheet I had was quite badly warped so I splashed out on some 1/8 spruce to ensure a reasonable chance of success :-)) The deck is 1/8 ply and I was thankful for my electric fretsaw, cutting the deck out was no challenge at all. Some filling is required around the deck edges where I failed to sand the top of the hull sides to quite the correct profile (doh).
Next bit of thought after the hulls tidied up will go to the bulwarks.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/11169670_10155435171390717_568278031759389221_o_zpswgi7czau.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/11169670_10155435171390717_568278031759389221_o_zpswgi7czau.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/11070418_10155437395180717_1100090001015533305_n_zpsnhcnof2f.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/11070418_10155437395180717_1100090001015533305_n_zpsnhcnof2f.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/11907841_10156001267880717_5020145301197431714_o_zpsthxzffeb.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/11907841_10156001267880717_5020145301197431714_o_zpsthxzffeb.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/11229772_10156001267885717_4609580550666711989_o_zpsvegmpb4q.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/11229772_10156001267885717_4609580550666711989_o_zpsvegmpb4q.jpg.html)
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Hi Willlit, Bustler was my second scrath built model, mine was built when the plans first came put and I was about 16 / 17. I remember enjoying the build especially the tumble home bulwarks my boat was all balsa so I was almost holding them together as the balsa cement hardened. It was pre RC so was was just free sailing.
It went a few years later (I was in the RAF) with my sister who emigrated to Tasmania, quite touching really.
Look forward to seeing pictures of your build.
kind regards Roy
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Hi Willlit, Bustler was my second scrath built model, mine was built when the plans first came put and I was about 16 / 17. I remember enjoying the build especially the tumble home bulwarks my boat was all balsa so I was almost holding them together as the balsa cement hardened. It was pre RC so was was just free sailing.
It went a few years later (I was in the RAF) with my sister who emigrated to Tasmania, quite touching really.
Look forward to seeing pictures of your build.
kind regards Roy
thanks Roy I am enjoying making it. Do you remember how you did the bulwark around the stern?
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Hi Willlit, rather vaguely but I think I cut some wood to the vertical height of the bulwarks, placed it on the deck and cut lengths of 1/4 balsa to longer lengths a bit tapered and leaned them on the vertical height wood.
Thinking about it now I would use 1/4 wide wood. a bit of trial and error taper the lengths towards the top and champhre the edges. to give a smoothe outer finish
I would cut a piece of wood to a shape following the inner curve and top line of the bulwarks pin or clamp this to the stern deck. Then use 1/4 inch wide slightly tapered lengths to lean on the jig you have clamped to the deck. Start at the middle and work outwards to join the vertical side bulwarks. Use electricians sticky tape to hold the lot in place. Do not worry about uneven lengths as you can sand down to the jig height when all is dry. Then gently sand the outer part to a smooth finish. Fill where necessary.
Then remove the clamped on deck jig.
File the inner edges carefully to the same thickness when looking down on it and the fit a capping top with a slight over hang to the outside.
Or if the top edge is satisfactory use a length of 1/16th. hard wood soak it and or steam it and bend it gently around the curve, any where will do and when dry glue and clamp it to the top outer edge and smoothe to shape,
I think that will work as the shape you have made is inherrently very strong.
Good luck,
Roy
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thanks Roy I'll give it a go, sounds like a fairly straightforward method :-)
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Some filling is required around the deck edges where I failed to sand the top of the hull sides to quite the correct profile (doh).
Car body repair filler is fantastic stuff -it's saved many a lump and bump in the bottom of a boat - never be ashamed to have to use some - it often saves the day!!!
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Car body repair filler is fantastic stuff -it's saved many a lump and bump in the bottom of a boat - never be ashamed to have to use some - it often saves the day!!!
Its excellent stuff isn't it, Dads Mountfleet Active used some around the stern.
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A little bit more progress, the stern tube is in and I have filled around it to blend it into the hull a bit better. I have filled around the deck and any little blemishes there were on the hull have been addressed, since these photos were taken its had about 5 coats of sand sealer rubbed down between each, as well as the rudder tube fitting. Hopefully a coat of primer will see the bottom of the hull complete and I can get on with the bulwarks.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/11951722_10156020864765717_276394884720647835_o_zps9dgkwmr4.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/11951722_10156020864765717_276394884720647835_o_zps9dgkwmr4.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/11934541_10156020864770717_8100930986594476337_o_zpsmwljln4w.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/11934541_10156020864770717_8100930986594476337_o_zpsmwljln4w.jpg.html)
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I am not very happy with the sand sealer. Its got a multitude of cracks in its surface, almost like crazy paving. I wouldn't be surprised if it flaked off. To that end I am going to sand it right back and coat with a layer of epoxy. Is this a good idea?
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Rub down then use Halfords car laquer 3 coats...leave to dry then rub down to denib with !80 grit wet/dry...dry rub not wet...al you are doing is to denib it reaply 3 coats do the same then apply your paint
Dave
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My concern is that the hull is still too soft. I don't want to have marks a knocks appearing, hence why I considered the resin.
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cover it with resin and cloth then that will be your ans....as sanding sealer alone wouldn't do it at all........
Dave
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Rub it back, and cover it with fine glass cloth and epoxy resin, and resin it in inside too (shouldn't require cloth there). That will make very tough and waterproof.
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I have bought some tissue, I already had resin. I have never done it before but I'm up for trying. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Good guide here. Tissue doesn't have a lot of strength, at least not when compared with cloth. http://www.bucks-composites.com/how-to-do/guide-surface-finishing (http://www.bucks-composites.com/how-to-do/guide-surface-finishing)
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Hi all
I have to admit some of you modellers must mistreat your models. for the simple reason there are numerous people such as Vic Smeed, Glyn Guest and Colin Bishop - and meself :-) - who have built balsa wood models covered with tissue and dope - and the models are still around today, they have been in the water many times with many accidents but they still survive. So what is wrong with using aircraft tissue, sand n sealer and dope?
I know Dave Milbourn has just completed a model which I believe is in one of the modelling magazines and I think he uses Eze-Kote to cover the exterior. I believe he also uses a very fine matting or tissue. By the looks of it Dave has had some excellent results with it. I myself have used Eze-Kote to cover the exterior with similar good results.
aye
John
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well its been a while since I picked up Bustler, this is due to having a bit of a disaster with the GRP resin I was going to try which was rather demoralizing and life in general took over. In the end it was all stripped off and I've been happily tissueing the hull and slapping on layer after layer of thinned dope. I think I am just about there, so after its dried for a few days I'll pop a coat of red primer on.
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a not terribly thrilling view of the upturned and sealed hull.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerupturned_zpsuobfhkmq.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerupturned_zpsuobfhkmq.jpg.html)
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started the bulwarks, I nearly ran out of G clamps! I used some hot water to assist the curve and made some balsa formers with strategic notches cut in to allow the G clamps to lock in. I've split it as I just couldn't see it working in one hit the full length of the hull.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bulwarks_zpsloe0u54r.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bulwarks_zpsloe0u54r.jpg.html)
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further progress tonight, bulwarks are a bit further round, gaps have been filled and the deck combing is on
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerprogress_zpsxouxmotm.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerprogress_zpsxouxmotm.jpg.html)
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A technique I have used for steaming plywood is wrap the wood in rag or tissue soaked with water, then wrap that in aluminium foil. Heat the foil with a hot air gun (I wear some leather gloves to avoid cooking myself). Plywood becomes very easy to manipulate after that.
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A technique I have used for steaming plywood is wrap the wood in rag or tissue soaked with water, then wrap that in aluminium foil. Heat the foil with a hot air gun (I wear some leather gloves to avoid cooking myself). Plywood becomes very easy to manipulate after that.
thats an interesting one I might try that
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A technique I have used for steaming plywood is wrap the wood in rag or tissue soaked with water, then wrap that in aluminium foil. Heat the foil with a hot air gun (I wear some leather gloves to avoid cooking myself). Plywood becomes very easy to manipulate after that.
I'll remember that one! thanks for the tip.
Alex
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Hi Willlit, rather vaguely but I think I cut some wood to the vertical height of the bulwarks, placed it on the deck and cut lengths of 1/4 balsa to longer lengths a bit tapered and leaned them on the vertical height wood.
Thinking about it now I would use 1/4 wide wood. a bit of trial and error taper the lengths towards the top and champhre the edges. to give a smoothe outer finish
I would cut a piece of wood to a shape following the inner curve and top line of the bulwarks pin or clamp this to the stern deck. Then use 1/4 inch wide slightly tapered lengths to lean on the jig you have clamped to the deck. Start at the middle and work outwards to join the vertical side bulwarks. Use electricians sticky tape to hold the lot in place. Do not worry about uneven lengths as you can sand down to the jig height when all is dry. Then gently sand the outer part to a smooth finish. Fill where necessary.
Then remove the clamped on deck jig.
File the inner edges carefully to the same thickness when looking down on it and the fit a capping top with a slight over hang to the outside.
Or if the top edge is satisfactory use a length of 1/16th. hard wood soak it and or steam it and bend it gently around the curve, any where will do and when dry glue and clamp it to the top outer edge and smoothe to shape,
I think that will work as the shape you have made is inherrently very strong.
Good luck,
Roy
well I did it!
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/sternbulwark_zpsbyutrd1i.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/sternbulwark_zpsbyutrd1i.jpg.html)
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I've been watching this with great joy and nostalgia, as it was the first model I built myself at the age of 10 without my grand dad's help..........and to be honest I haven't a clue after 56 years as to its whereabouts or what happened to it...........but had great fun sailing it.
and when sorting out a load of old stuff the other day, I actually found my old plans for her again..........
might after my lifeboat is finished, build her again but with a grp hull, some resin fittings and use plasticard for the upper works.........
might be fun again.
thanks for the inspiration.
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I've been watching this with great joy and nostalgia, as it was the first model I built myself at the age of 10 without my grand dad's help..........and to be honest I haven't a clue after 56 years as to its where abouts or what happened to it...........but had great fun sailing it.
and when orting out a load of old stuff the other day, I actually found my old plans for her again..........
might after my lifeboat is finished, build her again but with a grp hull, some resin fittings and use plasticard for the upper works.........
might be fun again.
thanks for the inspiration.
you are most welcome :)
Vic Smeed's "Hobo" is next!
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well some more progress made. The stern bulwarks are complete and I have fitted a capping strip to the top edge, with judicious use of clothes pegs. I've been fitting frames to the inside of the bulwarks too, these aren't specified on the drawings but I felt it had to have them. The cable well cover has also been nearly completed.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/pegs_zpsehhvfoga.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/pegs_zpsehhvfoga.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/stern2_zpsij2idhp7.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/stern2_zpsij2idhp7.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/stern_zps5gbnyg3m.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/stern_zps5gbnyg3m.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/cablewell_zpsbi8ss7sf.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/cablewell_zpsbi8ss7sf.jpg.html)
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further progress, the drawings don't specify bulwark frames but it looked naked without them so these were cut from 1/32 ply and glued in place. The whole lot was treated to several coats of dope and Halfords red primer to seal it. Quite a few little defects appeared that weren't so obvious so I either sanded these off with my stock of Tesco Value ladies nail files (really useful for getting into awkward corners) or filled them with squadron green putty. I'm currently waiting for the filler to dry. I have also made the engine room compartment cover.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bulwarksupports_zps3wtmxjso.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bulwarksupports_zps3wtmxjso.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/paintedbustler_zpsey0phaiq.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/paintedbustler_zpsey0phaiq.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerfiller_zpsfcvrogae.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerfiller_zpsfcvrogae.jpg.html)
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masked up the uppers and sprayed on the antifowling today. I thought about leaving it in the primer but thought I might as well use up some of the paint left from my old Peugeot 205! Going to leave for a week now and come back to do the black. Thank god for the Tamiya masking tape, no dramas at all.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerred_zpsubvlbg33.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerred_zpsubvlbg33.jpg.html)
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Bustlers hull is now more or less painted. The black went on ok (Halfords satin) and the boot top line (to disguise the iffy waterline) was done by masking up the waterline with lining tape and then spraying it with white primer. The hull was then coated in Halfords lacquer, job done :)
just got to let the lacquer go off for a while before anything else is done.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerblack_zpsif1cw1b4.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerblack_zpsif1cw1b4.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlermasked_zpssk8z6ate.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlermasked_zpssk8z6ate.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerboottop_zps5u8ovn6i.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerboottop_zps5u8ovn6i.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustlerlacquer_zpsqhnmcxp7.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustlerlacquer_zpsqhnmcxp7.jpg.html)
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very nice...........she's looking well indeed,...............nostalgic thoughts flowing freely. O0
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very nice...........she's looking well indeed,...............nostalgic thoughts flowing freely. O0
we are getting there, I'm going to leave the lacquer to set for a week and a bit before I touch it again! I will be fitting the hull out next and then I'll do the superstructure.
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well I've been beavering away. The shaft and propeller are on now, I have also sprayed the hull with Testors Dullcote to take the gloss off. The superstructure is basically assembled, I'm just waiting for the tube for the funnel and various other bits of furniture to arrive. I have deviated from the design a little as I wasn't convinced by the shape of the superstructure so have gone my own way with it. And yes I did tidy those corners up!
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/24879634_10159782435820717_962944313876197485_o_zpsymqcv3an.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/24879634_10159782435820717_962944313876197485_o_zpsymqcv3an.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/24883523_10159785961645717_4419640887683863218_o_zps3t7m789o.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/24883523_10159785961645717_4419640887683863218_o_zps3t7m789o.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/25074945_10159804994185717_6009072264170029383_o_zpsqk860wtc.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/25074945_10159804994185717_6009072264170029383_o_zpsqk860wtc.jpg.html)
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I look at this thread of Vic Smeeds models and keep thinking this is all we need for model boating. Harking back to my childhood.
I have a Bustler half built to 26 inches i think, scaled it up a bit for more bouyancy and strip planked it.
Lovely hull to build.
I'm looking for an original Vic Smeed Moonmist plan too if they are still available.
Hayden
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A slightly modified version of Moonmist built by Glynn Guest was featured in the 2101 Model Boats Commemorative Special that I edited. Although available at the time, the plan doesn't appear to be currently listed by Sarik Hobbies who are managing the plans service. The plan itself was however reproduced in the magazine and I have a jpg image of it which I can send to you if you pm me your email.
Colin
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It seems this outlet sells the plan for 16 quid.
https://www.model-dockyard.com/acatalog/model-boat-magazine-Cabin_Cruisers.html
Colin.
Is your .jpg version the original as drawn? Not sure from your writing.
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Yes, it is as drawn.
Colin
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Hello Colin.
Ok sounds great and my Godson will be much appreciative.
I'll have to educate him on the historical significance of Mr Vic Smeed. He needs to read my collection of Model Boat books on the hobby.
Will P.M you my e-mail.
Thank you.
Hayden
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those two models must be the most important ones that Vic Smeed, produced.
in 1961 when I and avery good friend of mine decided to choose plans to build our first "proper" boats from plns, I chose Bustler and still have original plans for her 55 years on and my friend chose Moonmist, and we buil them together in his garden shed..............pure nostalgia oozes from these two models, and we had plenty of fun both building them, overcoming each others build problems and sailing them freelance once finished..........great days which fortified my love of a lifetime of building..................and apart from motorcycles and classic cars...........this wonderful hobby has given me more pleasure than anything else in life, except for seeing and watching my two daughters grow into young women.
Hope your god son gets the same pleasure from his model as I did all those years ago.
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Info sent.
Colin
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There must be something about those two boats, Moonmist and Bustler.
Here we are my friend and I, he selected the Moonmist and me the Bustler , both if us about 10 years old and just starting in the hobby as schoolboys.
I doubt neither of us knew anything about who Vic Smeed was, certainly no internet, but only the Model Boats magazine.
What made us select these two and here on this forum 40 yrars later they are mentioned in the same breath by others.Amazing.
Now the decision is do I go brushless or can motor😳
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I'm glad people are enjoying seeing the model being built. Its funny, it sounds like Bustler was a popular design but you so rarely see it!
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It is some time since I have worked with balsa, getting more adult I progressed into senior materials like plywood, two part epoxy and spray cans.
Now where was that breathing mask as there is a bit of sanding to do on this one😷
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G'day Vanya,
Having built a number of boats over the years, I'm still a fan of Brushed motors where you don't need them to scream like a Banshee. The Brushless are fine in fast boats, but in the slower work boats I feel the Brushed motors have the edge. They are quiet, economical to run, and you can often find suitable small motors on car electric aerials from the scrap yard. You can also buy them cheap on Ebay.
You can read of some issues I had on my Albert build, where I started with a Brushless, but soon changed after my lady hated the noise of that motor to the point where she didn't want to run the boat, until I refitted Albert with a 50mm Brushed motor out of my vast collecion of 12v motors, which all came from cars, either aerial or fan motors. Albert now runs silently and performs just as he should!
Ian.
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Ian.
I have been out of touch with boat motors, especially the "can" types but of ol Mabuschi 280,380 or 540 were it in my day.
I run some of those MMB(UK) silver multipole motors in a small barge and they are very quiet and efficient. I could try one as Moonmist will not require much power being balsa bashed.
Boat, motor (can!) and now for the retro power from some old Sanyo Ni-cads from the late 70's😆😆 Probably 600 mah C-cells. WOnder if they take a charge after 25 years😳. Have to look for my flared trousers and polyester shirt and this rate! 👍
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Oh I guess I have hijacked the Bustler thread.
Is there a Moonmist thread?
I'll post a photo of my Bustler tug hull to date soon to get the thread back on track.
Sorry about that.
Hayden
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I suddenly got interested at the flared trousers and polyester shirt.
Let's see a photo.
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I suddenly got interested at the flared trousers and polyester shirt.
Let's see a photo.
sorry I can't be more entertaining
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Hi Willit, nearly 8000 views of your build thread, you are definitely entertaining us all. Thanks.
Chas
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further progress, Christmas rather stopped the job!
The funnel has been started, its a thin wall copper tube silver soldered to a turned brass base, which is drilled and tapped 0BA for bolting to the deck.
The ventilators are cast Graupner things, I squared up the bases, drilled and tapped them 4BA for mounting. I wasn't convinced glue would hold them!
The propeller shaft has been finally installed too :-) . I've fitted a pair of hatches to the superstructure, these were etch primed ready for final paint.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/25440290_10159838366440717_3480350324045791023_o_zpszp898mhh.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/25440290_10159838366440717_3480350324045791023_o_zpszp898mhh.jpg.html)
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OOH :o , Is the copper tube funnel not a bit heavy to be so high ? I use plastic denture tablet containers for similar vintage smoke-stack/funnels 2.5cm dia X 7.5cm long, easy to cut shorter. Cant take heat of course. Vic Smeed was a prolific designer of model aircraft , his "Tomboy" was probably the aviation version of the Bustler. A Tomboy was my first model with an engine, an ED Bee ,1cc diesel. A lot of pennies for a 15 year old schoolboy, Bought myself a nostalgia mug recently.
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Plastic tooth tablet tube funnel
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That's still one of my all time favourite Springers! :-))
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"Just so Martin, the finest vessel in the coastal trade" ventured the old mariner , "just so" he followed with a hint of moistening eye, had a gold bead aboot her beam, painted oot `o my own pocket, man she wass sublime just sublime" :embarrassed: {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Willit, sorry for going off course, Martin started it O0 {-) . What about the weight of the lum ?
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Willit, sorry for going off course, Martin started it O0 {-) . What about the weight of the lum ?
that's ok lol. I think it will be fine. Remember I am doing this model relatively traditionally. The funnel is brass tube, not copper, not sure why I said that. The hull has to be mightily ballasted to bring it down to its waterline so there's plenty of weight to counter it.
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OOH :o , Is the copper tube funnel not a bit heavy to be so high ?
Not a lot of Bustler progress lately, Christmas was a distraction and I've been setting up a Caldercraft Joffre I bought from a friend (now done). However today I bath tested Joffre and before I pulled the plug I thought I'd see how Bustler's funnel affected it. To my delight, it makes no odds at all to it, and she's not even ballasted yet! The broadish beam seems to make it exceptionally stable. Indeed, Joffre wobbles more (but not so its a problem). It has also brought the bow down a tad so that's good, though there's still some way to go, hopefully the battery will finish the job plus any additional weight required. :-))
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well the funnel is pretty much there bar the whistle. I soldered on some rings and the vent and whistle pipes before giving it a coat of paint, in true Waverley style! The bevelled top was arrived at by soldering on a ring before using some Squadron Putty to get the bevelled edge. Its not perfect and I would have liked to get the paint a bit better but its turned out ok. I've been setting up a programmable MP3 sound system for Joffre (Bustler will get one too) so they have been together on the dining room table today, quite a size difference!
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/28070708_10160127346160717_9060392755524163830_o_zpsjr0xrud9.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/28070708_10160127346160717_9060392755524163830_o_zpsjr0xrud9.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/28161888_10160134629615717_9061998763920927999_o_zpsnpey9ido.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/28161888_10160134629615717_9061998763920927999_o_zpsnpey9ido.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180222_002_zpsivuapsey.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180222_002_zpsivuapsey.jpg.html)
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question for people regarding scale.
Obviously Bustler does not conform to any set scale, but I've been running the numbers against real tugs dimensions and it looks like it could actually conform to 1/48 scale, the same as Joffre. Things like the bulwarks and hatches are the same size, and a 1/48 figure would transfer between the two ok, Joffre being a large tug after all. I need to know this as it determines what size figures I stick on the deck, it also determines what I do with the bridge area (flying bridge vs wheelhouse).
thoughts? In 1/48 Bustler equates to a 75 to 80 foot tug which is perfectly possible, the tug Margaret Ham being a good example of what I'm going for.
http://www.tynetugs.co.uk/margaretham1913.html
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I've just been reading Vic Smeeds original article on the Bustler. He said it was based on the Southampton harbour tugs. If memory and Google serve me correctly, that would be the Alexandra towing company, so 80 to 90 feet sounds about right. More importantly, I use the " if it looks right, it probably is" system.
I'm enjoying your build, thank you.
Chas
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Bustler is also very similar to the Red Funnel tug Canute.
Colin
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thanks chaps, I was concerned it would look rediculous next to Joffre and other 1/48 scale boats!
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This is an interesting build of one of Vic's designs. Keep up the good work.
Tony.
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Hi Willit, you are certainly stirring up some old memories here. Casting my mind back to sailing Bustler she bobbed around a lot. I suggest that when you ballast her spread the lead as far apart as possible fore and aft. This will give a more of a driving through the waves effect.
The principle is the dumb bell effect in puttting weight at the extreme ends, it will need more inertia to move the hull about it's central axis than if the ballast was all in the centre of the boat. I seem to remember using all the ball bearings from my Meccano set in the stern.
Something I saw on a Bugsier 3 tug was a rubber bumper mounted at the waterline. This disturbed the bow wave and made that "moustache" that tugs from those days had.
carry on the good work,
Roy
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Hi Vanya you have a PM.
Roy
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That is really good advice from Roy. Changing the position of the ballast transformed a couple of my models. One is a small 16 inch tug and the other is the Revell corvette.
Chas
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This is a bit embarrassing, but as a kid, a lot of years ago, I started to build a Bustler, but as I had more of an interest in Sydney tugs, I built a different deckhouse and bridge. Back in those days it was really basic stuff and I had very little ability as a pre-teen, and the end result was pretty awful, but it did end up green and black! No RC in those days either, very basic controls. It never was completed, but still resides in the shed, as an example of how things can change with a bit of maturity and experience!
In 1981 I had improved my skills dramatically and built the Iron Cove. Back then no drawings for the ship were available, as a fire at the shipyard in South Australia destroyed all records, So I built the model off a General Arrangement drawing, and as there were no hull details available, I fudged it, and used a Moorcock hull. Totally wrong, as the Iron Cove has a Hydroconic hull rather than a standard round bilge, but once she's in the water it's pretty well hidden. The model was launched in 1982 and is still as she was back then, not that she see's much water these days. The Iron Cove was built to a scale of 9/16" - 1 Ft, as this scaled out correctly for the length of the Moorcock hull.
Ian
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That looks brilliant, you should definitely resuscitate it!
I have decided to stick with the 1/72 ish scale, it looked too weird with a 1/48 figure on.
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G'day Willit,
Resuscitate the Bustler based one? Too rough to even consider, but I keep it as something I attempted as a kid. I did have a 1:48 figure on the model, so I'm guessing that was the scale it was at the time. That early model was all balsa, a timber I dislike intensely, since that first model I use real wood and plywood to much better effect and finish.
Ian.
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G'day Willit,
Resuscitate the Bustler based one? Too rough to even consider, but I keep it as something I attempted as a kid. I did have a 1:48 figure on the model, so I'm guessing that was the scale it was at the time. That early model was all balsa, a timber I dislike intensely, since that first model I use real wood and plywood to much better effect and finish.
Ian.
its good that you have kept it, its pretty damned good for a childs attempt, I would have been happy with that as a 10 year old. :-))
I agree regarding balsa, I'm not a fan, it was fine for the basic hull shape but the rest of the model is ply wood. Anything that isn't hull that is listed as balsa I substituted ply for.
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I have been putting on the lettering on the hull using BICC self adhesive letters. I probably should have gone for the next size down but I can live with it. The name should be familiar to those who read the Discworld books. The whistle has also appeared on the funnel.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180308_009_zps6psdwy58.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180308_009_zps6psdwy58.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180308_010_zpsryysjsjj.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180308_010_zpsryysjsjj.jpg.html)
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little bit of work done this week, the railings have been soldered up and are currently drying out after a coat of paint. The first mate inspects!
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180314_002_zps3jljz6df.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180314_002_zps3jljz6df.jpg.html)
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I've been busy with the rattle cans. The ventilators and handrails were treated to white paint and the superstructure to some Humbrol brown acrylic. The portholes were made to be a tight push fit. Starting to come together now, flying bridge next I think. The pile of stuff on deck is a group of figures I got from ebay, from a Revell 1/72 U Boat kit, they have been given a less dangerous post!
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/bustler_zps16vlnfib.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/bustler_zps16vlnfib.jpg.html)
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today has been a rudder day. This is was nice and easy. the rudder was made out of some brass strip soldered to a bit of rod, with a brass washer to prevent upward movement. A nice Graupner tiller arm finishes it off :-) this will be covered with "summat".
its currently waiting for a coat of etch primer to dry then the rest of the paint can be put on.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180323_001_zpslswm8mal.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180323_001_zpslswm8mal.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180323_002_zpso6jamjfg.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180323_002_zpso6jamjfg.jpg.html)
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painted and given a blast of Dullcote to match the hull :-)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180324_010_zpsodoesffd.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180324_010_zpsodoesffd.jpg.html)
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the motor is in, and didn't put up too much of a fight. I'm a firm believer in making models easily maintainable, and I'm not a fan of screwing motors to wood as the wood can split or the threads go over time. So this motor is bolted to a bit of 3mm steel, drilled and tapped 6BA, so removing the motor is an easily repeatable exercise, not that I expect I will have to for a while yet! The plate is Devcon'd to the hull bottom on two wooden wedges. As well as supporting the motor it also acts as "working ballast" as it has brought the bow down a bit. And yes I did try it in the bath, there is a little bit of vibration but I was running it on 9v off a PP3 so that might be why. I might clock the prop shaft with a dial gauge in a collet to see if its running true.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/30712048_10160391121895717_7375802927182512128_o_zpsucmw5caa.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/30712048_10160391121895717_7375802927182512128_o_zpsucmw5caa.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/30726877_10160391138040717_4180471039915982848_o_zpsnj2eypau.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/30726877_10160391138040717_4180471039915982848_o_zpsnj2eypau.jpg.html)
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Absolutely superb work though I don't like the olive green colour! Re screws in wood, I've had them in motor mounts for 20 years or more and they've never shifted / failed from the occasional unscrew then back-in again.
Fantastic work anyway, very jealous.
Rich
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Absolutely superb work though I don't like the olive green colour! Re screws in wood, I've had them in motor mounts for 20 years or more and they've never shifted / failed from the occasional unscrew then back-in again.
Fantastic work anyway, very jealous.
Rich
aw shucks thanks Rich, I'm not that good, and it could definitely be better but I appreciate the kind words. Yeeaaaah the brown (its actually brown in real life but the pictures don't recreate it well), I was a bit unhappy with it to start with but its grown on me.
Its the steam loco mechanic in me I'm afraid {-)
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Steering is in. The micro servo is mounted on a commercial bracket, mounted to a block of wood, Devcon'd to the hull. A bit of piano wire provides the push. The tiller will be covered by a capstan and the wire by a coiled tow rope.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/31416856_10160424837230717_1233463870962532352_o_zpszndtvhcf.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/31416856_10160424837230717_1233463870962532352_o_zpszndtvhcf.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/31318289_10160424842520717_3449943883650170880_o_zpsglyyncjh.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/31318289_10160424842520717_3449943883650170880_o_zpsglyyncjh.jpg.html)
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I have fitted out the running gear, usual sort of thing, Mtroniks controller, my preferred Graupner HOTT RC system and a 7.2v pack velcro'd to the hull, some self adhesive steel weights counter balancing it. The receiver has 6 channels so I shall fit a sound system like Joffre's and a switcher for the lights (watch this space!).
and yes it has had a go round the pond but the chop got up and my nerves couldn't hack it! It does sail quite nicely though, and sits perfectly on the waterline with just a little weight needed in the bow. I've allowed some leeway for when I fit the white-metal lifeboats. I need to fix that switch in place, it doesn't normally foul the servo arm!
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180510_001_zpsydtlniwp.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180510_001_zpsydtlniwp.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/WP_20180510_002_zpsppbzccsu.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/WP_20180510_002_zpsppbzccsu.jpg.html)
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well after the last ten minute test sailing (where it got far too rough for a small model) Shelley and I went to Tilgate lake in Crawley and gave Magrat 45 minutes of sailing time. Aside from a slight rattle that seems to have developed (probably wants more lubrication) it sails very nicely though I am going to try to get a tighter turning circle as it is currently a little wider than I would like, its perfectly acceptable but not exactly steering competition winning! Shelley had a go and declared it good.
I am going to try and get to the Mayhem weekend with it (hopefully a little more finished), and if I can manage it my Vic Smeed Guardsman.
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/32349840_10160461433750472_7212081973609627648_n_zps6ynjsety.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/32349840_10160461433750472_7212081973609627648_n_zps6ynjsety.jpg.html)
(http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/32493115_10160461435005472_2462719661817462784_n_zpssfiodp4w.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/32493115_10160461435005472_2462719661817462784_n_zpssfiodp4w.jpg.html)
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Nice. I made a Bustler back in my teens, and I fitted a steering kort nozzle. Was up there with the best steering regatta boats.
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Nice. I made a Bustler back in my teens, and I fitted a steering kort nozzle. Was up there with the best steering regatta boats.
I remember reading a post where you mentioned that, was that the one that got sunk? I did consider putting a kort on!
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Yes that was it. Got pushed under by a bigger boat.
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Yes that was it. Got pushed under by a bigger boat.
aw that's a shame
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I have been fitting sound and lights to Bustler, update shortly.
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I have been working on the flying bridge. Its more or less as Vic Smeed intended it to be but I've put working navigation lights on, wired to two lengths of copper self adhesive tape which in turn will be wired to the support frame. A Forge Electronics sound system has been installed with assorted hooter noises uploaded. I also have found time to fit the bow fender :-)
(https://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/46473254_10161249501900717_2726622540045746176_o_zpsi1teuroa.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/46473254_10161249501900717_2726622540045746176_o_zpsi1teuroa.jpg.html)
(https://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/9f7a743b-8209-44c0-b253-a8e29481d13c_zpszenbsyg1.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/9f7a743b-8209-44c0-b253-a8e29481d13c_zpszenbsyg1.jpg.html)
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Apologies for going a bit quiet, but I have been plugging away!
The flying bridge is as complete as I think its going to get for the moment. The hidden wiring for the navigation lights has worked well, one leg either side being a pole, tiny link wires connecting them to self adhesive copper tape under the floor, to which the bulbs are wired. I have the necessary switcher unit to wire in to control these, I just haven't done it yet. I'll probably paint the companionway handrails white. It was made via a Plastruct stairway and some styrene rod, very fiddly. The crewmembers are courtesy of a Revell 1/72 U Boat kit, I managed to acquire them off ebay. The telegraphs and wheels were out of Cornwall Model Boats catalogue. I was very tempted to try and replicate the chain steering but I have left it for the moment. The ships cat is a Langley Models whitemetal casting, a spigot into his 'bottom' holds him securely.
Lastly I've started the tow hook. I've spent a long time thinking about this, really, the most crucial part of the tug. Its a tug, its got to pull, so how to do it? The wooden base once sealed and painted is glued to the deck, and a 5/16 drill run through both. A brass pivot post with a 5/16 32 thread on the end is inserted and a broad nut clamps it to the deck, transferring towing forces to the hull and not the superstructure, as it ought to be. The pivot post is tapped 6BA and the tow hook secured thusly, with a nice brass semi circular rubbing plate to sit on. All brass bits will be chemically blackened to avoid an unnatural finish. So far the wooden parts have received two coats of sanding sealer, two of primer and two of paint, a bit of Bostik and its on. I'll whizz up the metal bits on Sunday when I go down the railway. I have a lathe here but for some reason no 5/16 32 dies.
(https://oi174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/56310249_10161750012250717_8107436424074100736_o_zpscn1c7ork.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/56310249_10161750012250717_8107436424074100736_o_zpscn1c7ork.jpg.html)
(https://oi174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/56427036_10161750012445717_3618366744080416768_o_zpsaru9stb5.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/56427036_10161750012445717_3618366744080416768_o_zpsaru9stb5.jpg.html)
(https://oi174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/55932411_10161750012870717_9206477396448903168_o_zpsmuta8jne.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/55932411_10161750012870717_9206477396448903168_o_zpsmuta8jne.jpg.html)
(https://oi174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/55506908_10161726582040717_3051378091176755200_o_zpsxcfdqxuc.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/55506908_10161726582040717_3051378091176755200_o_zpsxcfdqxuc.jpg.html)
(https://oi174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/56363522_10161759016125717_4122842835185565696_o_zpsubqj0uui.jpg) (https://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/56363522_10161759016125717_4122842835185565696_o_zpsubqj0uui.jpg.html)
(https://oi174.photobucket.com/albums/w107/matthewpeter/56644925_10161780354915717_5524094632973041664_o_zpstyadqv5w.jpg) (http://s174.photobucket.com/user/matthewpeter/media/56644925_10161780354915717_5524094632973041664_o_zpstyadqv5w.jpg.html)
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Not much to report alas, but I will get back to it soon. In the meantime here is a photo of it on our recent holiday sailing around the Bude Canal. I had previously replaced the 3 blade prop with a 4 blade which has gone some way to stopping the paddle wheel effect experienced going astern.
https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JbY8f (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JbY8f)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JbY8f)
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A little bit of progress. I've posted the picture from the last post here to save people clicking links. I have made and fitted a steam winch on the bow deck. It took me a while to find one suitable and even then its a bit of a fudge but it looks the part. Its a 3D print from Shapeways for replacing a Flower Class Corvettes winch with something more accurate. It came up rather well, its really more for anchor handling but if it looks right etc. Its a lovely thing but quite delicate. I ended up breaking two control handles off so I cut the others off and fashioned replacements out of brass wire. After a bit of paint and weathering I think it came out ok. I shall be using this again on my Revell Corvette build. I particularly like the pipes coming "through" the decking.
www.shapeways.com/product/QA2HYP66K/anchor-winch?optionId=58793037&li=marketplace (http://www.shapeways.com/product/QA2HYP66K/anchor-winch?optionId=58793037&li=marketplace)
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time to get the lights working. The running lights as seen before are wired "invisibly" through the legs of the bridge and connected to copper tape running down the sides of the superstructure to which a UBEC (Universal Battery Elminator Circuit) is also connected. This is to reduce the main battery voltage of 7.2 to the rated 6 volts of the bulbs to ensure a long life. Finally the UBEC is wired to a length of PCB with a couple of cuts down the middle to isolate the poles. This is our "socket". Another bit of PCB with a couple of phosphor bronze tongues forming a plug which engages with the "socket" on the superstructure. The positive red lead is led back to a Turnigy remote control switcher unit which operates the lights via radio control. I have arranged the transmitter to make channel 6 operated by a simple on/off switch that was available on the handset. I'm rather pleased, the system I've chosen was simple to do (though the plug/socket took some thought) and my wish to avoid flying leads and plugs between hull and superstructure has been fulfilled. I've still to wire in the mast head lights but as the mast has not been built yet this will have to do for now. Next job.
If you look closely you'll notice I've whizzed up a bit of bronze for the tow hook base too. This is ongoing.
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I've finally got the tow hook made and fitted. I've had to fit it in around putting a 7 1/4 loco back together and that rather takes priority at the moment. Photo one shows the basic components of the tow post. The threaded bit goes through the deck and tow post support, and the large knurled brass nut goes underneath clamping it to the deck, the machined recess is there so I can actually get my fingers round it. The long 4BA bolt captures the tow hook, which is a bit of brass wire silver soldered to the base, to the post itself. I had to whizz a 4BA nut down to round to allow it to pass through the deck. All brass and bronze components (except the nut, which you can't see) are chemically blackened.
Photo two shows the fully assembled hook with a bit of PTFE grease on the hook base, and a blob of solder to stop the nut coming undone.
Photos three and four show it fitted and modelling a lovely Deans Marine tow rope. It is a bit overscale, and could possibly be a little smaller but it does have to work, and its not too far away from being the right size. To my eye the blackening rather distracts you from its failings. Its certainly one way of doing smaller scale towing.
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Alright I admit I'm completely weak willed. After saying I wouldn't I did.
Nothing clever just a Seuthe #5 smoke unit pushed into a brass disc which has a couple of feet things soldered to it which hold against the inside of the funnel. The wires pass through a drilled through bolt and are wired to the lighting circuit with a switch to maintain the option of no smoke, useful when you keep small parrots. I'm really pleased with how its turned out. Putting the unit lower down seems to allow the smoke to bunch up before it emerges so you get a good cloud.
I've also fitted some davits, nothing clever about these either just some commercial fittings. I have deviated from Mr Smeeds design though and done it more like a Thames tug would have.
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That's looking really good.
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Nice work! Good amount of smoke!
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A bit more progress! The lifeboat is finally, FINALLY on. This has been a bit of a debacle, it's a 3D printed set of parts from Shapeways for Flower Class Corvette lifeboats. It comes as a pair of boats and support frames, I painted one up and was very happy with it but the Humbrol enamel I used to paint the inside just never dried. Its still wet now 6 months on! So I broke out the other one and painted it with something I knew would definitely dry!
The mast is up, I sanded a length of dowel in the lathe before staining and varnishing it. I machined the mast foot to be a snug fit in the brass foot ring to reduce the apparent thickness of the ring, and having stuck a length of stainless wire in the bottom with a corresponding hole in the deck, used heavy duty superglue to fix it on. The rigging is EZ Line which is an elastic thread designed primarily for model railway telegraph wires, but its good for this too! If you snag it it just boings back to where it was. I'm going to try and get a bit more on, including funnel guy wires. I need to fit a mast cap really, to me that rather sticks out like a sore thumb.
Finally a shot of some towing earlier in the year!
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Lovely job! :-))
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Lovely job! :-))
Cheers Martin. Its only been 5 years in the making, hopefully the next one will be a bit faster %)
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Thanks to a cheap ebay purchase, the saga continueth! The superstructures gone in the bin and I have started tidying up the very nicely made hull as a running mate to Magrat. Not sure what sort of superstructure to do yet.
*pic hasn't attached, I'll sort later