Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => GRP & Epoxy => Topic started by: steamboat66 on February 27, 2017, 08:57:07 pm
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is there an epoxy filler that is thinner/softer than milliput, but thicker than epoxy glue so it doesn't run?
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Ok what exactly do you want to use this for,so we can help you
Dave
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https://reactiveresins.com/easy-fair-t-s.html
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I add micro balloons into the epoxy mix until I get the consistency that I require. They are available from model shops
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for tidying up deck to hull joins (still learning). i could do with some that is almost "creamy" so that i can smooth it on reasonably level, just leaving a little sanding to finish.
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Just can fill the epoxy with cellulose fibres, that will thicken, and also strengthen.
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http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-pol-TOP-STOP-GOLD-Extra-Smooth-Stopper-1-1Ltr-UPOL-Car-Body-Filler-BEST-Price-/221437536597?hash=item338eb4a955%3Ag%3ApT4AAOxyYANTb0Wn&_trkparms=pageci%253A8ba73d36-ff18-11e6-8e60-74dbd180831e%257Cparentrq%253A8de3205615a0a624ac9e0665ffe85ef1%257Ciid%253A1
This or easy light is what you need it like cream cheese and rubs down a treat
Dave
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Just be careful when using that type of filler as its polyester based and wont adhere to epoxy . However epoxy will adhere to it no problem ,one of lifes little mysterys i guess lol ;) .
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You can always use talc as a filler. It can be loaded up till its almost like putty.
Works in GRP or epoxy
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im using Easy 1 filler, was recommended to me by Andy from Models By Design as i was also trying to figure out best stuff to use as im new to building also.
Easy 1 filler is good stuff, its like a thin paste thats easy to apply that doesn't run & its VERY easy to sand, it basically lives up to its name "Easy 1" :)
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-body-repair/fillers-preparation/u-pol-easy-sanding-body-filler
(http://i1.adis.ws/i/washford/740936?w=637&h=403)
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Hey all,
I'm building the Smit Rotterdam and loving it! It's my first build.
Sometimes the filler, epoxy, putty, glass cloth, polyester..etc. just blows my mind. I think I get it, until I read somebody else's writeup and I'm shaking my head again.
No doubt it's simple and easy for those who know about it.I'm normally a fast learner. Maybe it's that fear of the unknown and the fear of messing up my boat.
What I plan on doing is to finish the planking etc, fill on the outside, sand , fill, sand and apply my 3/4 cloth and epoxy.
Some suggest all inside clothing, that's OK too. I feel more comfortable with the outside. But then sanding before painting becomes an issue.
Its all very puzzling.
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Hi ya FrozenRabbit
In this hobby, as all hobbies, there are many ways of doing things - and each way of doing something has its good/bad points.
Personally, when I build a hull, I try to plank it to the best of my abilities and try and minimise the amount of gaps/filling I have to do. The hull is never up to my expectations and I always have to do lots of filling.
In the olden days, before glassfibre/polyester resin - a lot of hulls which were built from wood were only sealed with lead based paints and varnishes - and that was the barrier between the timber and the water.
In theory The wooden hull should have sufficient strength on its own; to withstand the knocks and bumps at the lakeside.
With the arrival of plastics e.g. polyester/epoxy resins we should be using that as a barrier between the water and the wood. So its good to aim for that. i.e. to create a smooth finish on the wood, then create a smooth finish using the epoxy or polyester resins. Adding matting/tissue matting will help suspend polyester resin on the hull - in other words - it prevents thickened resin running away.
When epoxy resins are used - use woven roven material which is totally different to tissue or chopped strand mat. You cant mix chopped strand mat with epoxy resin because the chopped strand mat contains a resin which bonds the strands together and will not break down with epoxy.
So, proceed the way you are doing by filling the outside of the hull and then coating with epoxy resin.
On the inside - I would coat with epoxy resin only to seal the timbers in.
There are two trains of thoughts here - some people think the timber should be allowed to 'breath' but the only thing that is wrong with this is that the timber can expand when its wet. Therefore it will break away from the epoxy on the outside of the hull.
If the timber is completely sealed, no dampness should be able to reach the timber and therefore it wont expand.
John
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Hi ya FrozenRabbit
In this hobby, as all hobbies, there are many ways of doing things - and each way of doing something has its good/bad points.
Personally, when I build a hull, I try to plank it to the best of my abilities and try and minimise the amount of gaps/filling I have to do. The hull is never up to my expectations and I always have to do lots of filling.
In the olden days, before glassfibre/polyester resin - a lot of hulls which were built from wood were only sealed with lead based paints and varnishes - and that was the barrier between the timber and the water.
In theory The wooden hull should have sufficient strength on its own; to withstand the knocks and bumps at the lakeside.
With the arrival of plastics e.g. polyester/epoxy resins we should be using that as a barrier between the water and the wood. So its good to aim for that. i.e. to create a smooth finish on the wood, then create a smooth finish using the epoxy or polyester resins. Adding matting/tissue matting will help suspend polyester resin on the hull - in other words - it prevents thickened resin running away.
When epoxy resins are used - use woven roven material which is totally different to tissue or chopped strand mat. You cant mix chopped strand mat with epoxy resin because the chopped strand mat contains a resin which bonds the strands together and will not break down with epoxy.
So, proceed the way you are doing by filling the outside of the hull and then coating with epoxy resin.
On the inside - I would coat with epoxy resin only to seal the timbers in.
There are two trains of thoughts here - some people think the timber should be allowed to 'breath' but the only thing that is wrong with this is that the timber can expand when its wet. Therefore it will break away from the epoxy on the outside of the hull.
If the timber is completely sealed, no dampness should be able to reach the timber and therefore it wont expand.
John
Bluebird,
This is a fine example of the impact a few words can have on somebody first starting out. I appreciate the knowledge you have offered. I keep all advice for reference and criticism for its value. The latter is sometimes challenging.
You're spin on the pros and cons on our subject will help me move forward. Your opinions on glassing is fair. I feel a little more comfortable with what I wanted to do. Plank, fill, sand, glass, figure it out from there.
I will epoxy the inside of the entire structure as well, well the planking at least. Oh, and my 3/4 Oz cloth is woven.
I have medium Grey "spray" primer. Rust red for the bottom color, medium-dark blue for the upper hull, meduim-bright yellow for accents, god-awful green for the decks and bright white for the superstructure.
My next query will be in the electronics branches of the forum. I'll harass those guys for simple, cheap RC components tricks. Peter has helped with this a good deal, but it never hurts to keep researching.
You and Peter have helped me get my footing.
Now I'll work on my sea legs!