Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: canabus on June 24, 2017, 09:31:15 am
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Hi Fellow Modellers
I am starting this boat which is a bit larger at 860mm with a few mods.
I am placing the brushless motor and ESC under the dash.
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Hi All again
Adding a few more pics.
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Hi All
Only installed the battery floor and mounted the servo today.
Canabus
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Hi Canabus,
Good to see you've decided to go for a long propshaft to keep the angle as small as possible.
Do you have a picture taken from the side so the actual angle can be seen?
Aim for less than 7° and you should be good.
Which motor are you going to use?
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Jan
The plan is to use a 3639-1100kv 800watt 35mm brushless motor,3S Lipo Battery,60 Amp car ESC with a 3 blade 37mm CNC alloy prop.
Moving the motor to under the dash/windscreen is more of getting the balance of the boat right.
The shallow angle of the drive will help also.
I am not looking for super speed, but, looking for the boat to look right on the water.
Old boats can go faster than they thought in the day because they did not have the motors etc. that we have today.
My little Aerokits Sea Hornet on scale speed looks the just right, but, switch to sport mode on my radio it is a sleeper and clocks in at 45KM1!!
No trim tabs only a small bit of lead under the front seat.
Harry
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Hi Harry,
I looked up the motor and I'm curious how you're going to mount it.
Is the aluminum flange in the picture an aid to get the allignment right, or will the motor be bolted onto it?
Or are you planning on removing the motorshaft and stick the 5 mm propshaft through the motor, so there's no coupler involved and subsequently no allignment issues?
I've seen that done in a large tugboat, spectacular quiet drivetrains...
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Pompebled
The aluminium flange is my designed alignment tool, this will be removed and the motor with a solid aluminium 5mm to 4mm coupler.
I will post a few pics in a couple of weeks has I am working on the dash and cockpit at present.
I have work out I have enough room to install the motor with the coupler in one go.
I will not have room for the sister motor as this are longer(3648-1450kv).
Canabus
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Hi Harry,
If you have access to a lathe, you could easily make a motorflange like companies like Hydro&Marine sell:
https://hydromarine.de/index.php?language=en&cPath=6_31&MODsid=enm2cf7e329po2cu4dvsmfd8o3
The motor is bolted onto the flange, alligning isn't an issue anymore.
Installing the motor in tight spaces is easy, as you can tighten the coupler while inside the flange.
I've seen builders use the flange and stuffing tube, omitting the coupler, the (longer) shaft goes through the motor (after the stock shaft had been removed...).
I have a sketch of the flange on my HD, let me know if you want it.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi All
Only adding a few more pics.
You can see the stack of room under the dash area.
Canabus
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Hi All
Installed the motor and made the ESC floor.
Canabus
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That is coming along lovely!
Those passangers look 'ard. I hope your boat isn't being used for organised crime! We'll have no gangster business here, people's hot water bottles have been going missing for a while as it is.
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Hi Mate
These Guys recover HOT WATER BOTTLES and tune up naughty light fingers !!!
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Hi All
Added a few more stringers and started skinning the boat.
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Oh the pics !!!
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Hi Harry,
Good idea to use supermagnets (I assume that's what they are) to aid in clamping!
How does it work out?
Does it really gives you enough pressure to squeeze out the excess glue?
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Pompebled
The super magnets work great, but, I see a problem getting them in and out in the stern.
I will have to think of something over a few pints!!!!
More than enough pressure!!!
Harry
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Hi All
More planking on the boat and the cheap Hobbyking magnet are working great!!!
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Hi All
Still planking !!!!
The custom rudder is the next thing on the list and I have a surprise for your all on this one !!!!!
Canabus
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Hi All
The rudder arrived with double everything and oiler via the flag post!!!!
The looks better than the rectangle one on the original and fits with the stern shape.
Canabus
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That is a neat idea :-)) I love the shape of the hull and the diagonal planking, very swish.
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Hi All
After fibre glassing all the insides at the bow except for the top of the frames, I covered the underside of the deck with wood glue(waterproofing) and add wood glue to the top of the frames.
Applied the deck and added a stack on lead weight to the top of the deck.
Canabus
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It looks quite Jules Verne like from the stern with the exposed frames. She has a beautiful shape and can't wait to see some planks going on the deck :-))
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Hi All
Installed the rudder!!!
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Hi All
I play around with the decking and as it was a warm winters day I cracked out the spray can and undercoated the bottom.
Canabus
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Hi All
Made up a few 10mm magnets with wire handles to add the planks on the stern.
These have worked very well and the wire can be bent as required .
Canabus
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Hi All
Finally closed in the stern with the help of my magnets with handles!!!
A bit of sanding, fibreglass resin and spray putty/undercoat.
I have a lovely rear end (not mine)!!!
Canabus
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Hi Canabus,
Aha, I already wondered how you were going to get those supermagnets out of those confined spaces...
Handles, very clever!
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Jan
I also added 10mm squares of plywood to the standard magnets to help stop them breaking when they drop onto hard floors.
I do not plan on testing this one out hopefully!!!
Canabus
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Hi All
Installed the aft deck and started planking with the outer planking in two pieces(forward and aft).
It was only because of the width and length of the free veneer a mate gave me.
I cut out the center pieces and the cockpit area(a bit extra in this area).
The outer sides I left about 5mm extra.
Very interesting cutting veneer and not breaking it!!
One of my mad ideas to test myself out!!!!
Canabus
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Nicely shaped asrse .... stern!
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Hi Martin
In this day and age the spelling is R-SEND !!!
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Hi All
Cracking on with the deck planking, she is looking pretty sweet!!!
Canabus
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That's going to look something special when varnished :-))
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Hi All
Well I finally finished the planking !!!
Canabus
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Hi Guys
After sanding the deck, I vanished with two coats that was OK.
A bit of light sanding between coats and added another coat.
Check it the next day and a lot of section on the bow the veneer had lifted !!!
The stern section is OK.
It's the outer veneer and it's all one piece, used the same glue.
Very disappointed!!!!
Canabus
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Hi Chaps
Totally stripped the deck planking off and started again.
Fingers and toes crossed with different wood glue this time.
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Likewise, fingers crossed for you. What glue did you use first and what is the varnish? spirit or water based??
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Hi All
Finished planking and added the first coat of vanish.
Canabus
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Wow - great looking boat....
You might find these links interesting ..
http://classicrunabouts.de/ (http://classicrunabouts.de/)
or
https://www.facebook.com/BAE-Schiffsmodellbau-322562321265360/ (https://www.facebook.com/BAE-Schiffsmodellbau-322562321265360/)
or
http://www.exclusive-shipmodel-shop.de/Ship-Models-Modell-Boats-Baby-Bootlegger-Crackerbox-Rocket-Slippery (http://www.exclusive-shipmodel-shop.de/Startseite)
Regards
C-3PO
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That's going to be one slick boat when all the varnishing is done :-)) The lady in the cockpit seems impressed :-)
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Hi All
Finish vanishing the deck and starting on the right Royal Pipa Blue Bottom !!!
Canabus
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Not bad. I like the variety of shades found in the planks and their symetry.
Nice :-))
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Hi All
Finished painting the bottom of the boat.
Canabus
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Hi Chaps
Painted the sides and started planking the dash, also installed the shaft oiler.
Canabus
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Hi All
Finally finished the dash planking.
Add the T shifter for the oiler!!!
Canabus
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I salute all methods of hiding the funtional or disguising it :-)) That is a cool idea.
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Hi Chaps
Well out with the polish and clean up the boat.
All system installed and working.
A bit offset on the rudder and setup the ESC to my standard boat settings.
Only using the 3S 3700mah Lipo battery and a total suggest at the CG point.
The crew are a bit heavy at 100 grams each!!!
Weather is looking good, so it's gentleman start your engine !!!
Canabus
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Hi All
The had it's first run today with great success, the CG was 410mm from the bow and it sat in the water on the waterline.
A slow start with a quick check of the forward/ reverse and rudder controls.
As you all will see from the pics what a boat without spray rails is like!!!
Up on the plane at 1/3 throttle and turning nice on the rudder.
I got the offset spot on for once.
Stayed in the 1/3 to 1/2 throttle for the camera shots and then hit it up to full throttle.
Sat on the water beautifully, but, the turns had to be slower mainly because of no spray rails.
I am very happy with the performance, but, still have a few bits to add to finish to boat.
Canabus
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Hi All
A few more pics.
Canabus
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Hi All
More pics!!!
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Hi All
Sorry all, hit the wrong button.
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Now that is a lovely boat. The finish is marvellous :-))
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Hi Harry,
Congrats on a successful maiden!
A small video would be nice.
With the water not scaled down, sprayrails are a must to avoid having the bowwave crawling up to the deck.
If this would occur in the 1:1 version, the people on board would get very upset (and wet)...
Do you consider adding sprayrails?
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Jan
The trouble is that spray rails were not invented in 1920, so in keeping with the original design I did not install them.
Also the boat did not have a flag pole, but, I had to add this for the oiler for the rudder.
I have seen a post that the sides are about 1/8" below the bottom and filled in to have hidden spray rails.
Number six project is a Miss Britain 3 at 950mm.
I had to increase the size from the original plan(130%) to get room for the 35mm motor, battery, etc.
As a stepped hull the CG is very important to get the boat sitting up on the plane.
Also I have a 3648-1450 kv 1600watt brushless which requires a boat.
Canabus
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The trouble is that spray rails were not invented in 1920, so in keeping with the original design I did not install them.
Hi Harry,
When I build a (semi) scale model of a fast boat, my prime concern is to make it run properly, so it is a nice toy to play with.
If I have to alter the design (slightly) to acheive that, I will do so.
As an example, my M.A.S. original has two engines, my model only one, as a single motor and larger prop is more effective than two smaller ones, and, as a testmodel reveilled that small props have issues on a stepped hull, the air/water mixture, drawn under the hull by the steps rendered small props partly useless to the point that the speed dropped, untill the steps had stopped working.
My 110 cm version with one prop suffers from the same issue, but the large single prop sits deep enough to work below that air watermix on the hull bottom and keeps the grip to propel the boat forward (at silly speed, I must admit, but great fun to run).
If the bow wave crawling up the sides bothers you, I'd go for the 'hidden' sprayrails you mentioned.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi pompebled
The bow wave does not bother me, a bit funny, but, all the other boats give it a wide berth!!!!
Canabus
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:-)) Great photographs these will help me as I start my modelling journey. Bought this set of plans and wooden starter kit with no idea how to build so here goes.
Thanks from Somerset in England
Malcky56
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Hi Malcky56
As I moved the motor and ESC under the dash I got the CG forward with the battery in the engine compartment.
If I was building another one, I would skin the rear top before the bottom and install the rudder.
The 3639-1100kv motor on 3S Lipo battery gives a good turn of speed.
Canabus