Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: gerard on October 08, 2017, 04:51:18 pm
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having a bit of trouble, can anyone give me any tips on an easy way to solder an XT60 connector, I don't seem to be able to get it hot enough . Help.
Gerard.
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I use one of these, essential to have your hands free.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/321864085019?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=47291302527&rlsatarget=pla-328991334618&abcId=1058846&adtype=pla&merchantid=110770304&poi=&googleloc=9046326&device=c&campaignid=863755592&crdt=0
For the actual soldering I use a soldering station that has adjustable temperature up to 480deg C rather than a fixed wattage iron
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I can recommend this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-WEP-60W-Soldering-Iron-Station-Weld-6-Tips-Stand-Kit-Digital-Display/122525574608?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dee488bef6cbb40cfa910d352995a9845%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D13%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D292130123261&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-WEP-60W-Soldering-Iron-Station-Weld-6-Tips-Stand-Kit-Digital-Display/122525574608?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dee488bef6cbb40cfa910d352995a9845%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D13%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D292130123261&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598)
Lead free solder requires more heat than leaded
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It is not only about the max temperature that your soldering iron can produce but also on how long it can provide it.
I'm using the old style Weller with different tips depending on what soldering job I have to do. But there are other very good soldering irons out there for a good price.
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Not only does the bit need to be hot enough, it needs enough mass so that the work piece doesn't cool it too much on contact. Also a large tip to ensure maximum surface area contact.
So,a big, hot iron to allow instant heating giving liquid solder running into the joint so that the iron can be removed immediately before the heat travels to any plastic bits. If possible, I like to pre-tin everything that is going to be soldered.
Just general comments - I have yet to try XT60, but have soldered some pretty knobbly lugs in the past.
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When I am soldering both XT60s, EC3s or just plain 4mm gold connectors, I prefer to plug both halves of the connector together, to reduce the chance of heat spreading the pins. I usually use a soldering jig designed for the job, but failing that, I fall back to the Mark 1 BluTac lump, best helping hand ever!
Anyway, soldering..I pre-tin the wire to be soldered, then place the tip of the iron inside the solder bucket of the connector. Then feed solder into the tip of the iron, filling the bucket partially. Then remove the soldering iron and quickly insert your pre-tinned wire into the liquid solder. Hold the wire up for a couple of seconds while it cools, and hey presto, job done.
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Thanks for all your replies, I have still a few more to do so a few new ways to try .
Gerard
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You can also buy, generally from China, such as Hobbyking, an Aluminium block that will hold the connector for soldering plus a couple of other types, including bullet connectors.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mr-jig-soldering-aid.html
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I have got a mr jig it's very good but it's not very heavy and tended to move away if any pressure
Was put on it. I solved the problem with magnets glued to it and then placing it on a metal weight.
It now stays put.
John
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I also use the Mr JIG - Soldering Aid and find it excellent but as said above it is fairly light so I put it in a bench vice, which gives stability plus a bit of extra height??
Graham
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I just plug 'em in. A big block of cold aluminium sounds like it would hinder as much as it helped.
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I hold mine in a clothes peg, simples. nemesis
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I just plug 'em in. A big block of cold aluminium sounds like it would hinder as much as it helped.
Nah, it keeps the 'plastic' cool, look at the other image of it in use.
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If it doesn't hold the pins, how does it stop them moving if the plastic melts? Out of curiosity.
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Fortunately, the big lump of cold aluminium is at the other end of the pin. A big and hot enough iron tip will heat the end where the wire is going enough to do the job while ensuring that the pins stay put in the plastic housing. As with any soldering, speed is important. It should take less time for the soldering to be completed than for significant heat temperature rise to get to the block. Using a jig to hold one of the work pieces in place should help speed the heat application part of the job.
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Thanks for all your replies. Still to get back to the shed to try. Gerard
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Got into the shed tonight, tried again with an iron that I could increase the temp. Worked a treat by heating up and putting wire in "quickly". Again thanks for all your suggestions.
Gerard
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If it doesn't hold the pins, how does it stop them moving if the plastic melts? Out of curiosity.
Follow unbuilt's good idea reply No.5 O0 O0
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I use a soldering gun and a holder I got from Bang Good It is in two parts and acts as a clamp. It has holes for all XT60 sizes and holes for different bullets sizes and a few more shapes and sizes too.Talking of which all sizes are moulded on the metal parts. I can't find it on GB at the mo though. Sorry.