Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Glue etc. => Topic started by: Shipmate60 on October 21, 2017, 07:41:52 pm
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I have just tried the Tommy Walsh 2 part epoxy in a syringe dispenser.
It dries non-sticky in 15 mins.
I am so impressed with it I have just put 2 shafts in with it.
And all for £1.
Bob
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And i thought you were going to make use of the 2 part resin you bought. %)
Will have to grab myself some as ive used the last of my epoxy putting the shaft in the tug boat.
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Hi, I have been using the Tommy Walsh yacht varnish, on my second tin now. No complaints at all.
regards Roy
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been using this stuff for some time.
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I have just tried the Tommy Walsh 2 part epoxy in a syringe dispenser.
It dries non-sticky in 15 mins.
I am so impressed with it I have just put 2 shafts in with it.
And all for £1.
Bob
what sort of working time does it have, Bob with it setting in 15 mins.
neil.
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I have bought three packs after reading this.
Regards Howard
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Hi Neil, the safe working time in cool temperatures is about 10 minutes, in the warm it starts to gel in 7-8 minutes
Mark
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Ive used this too, got five in one go, used three already. Really good as long as you don't mix too much in one go as it reacts quickly in quantity and gets pretty warm to the touch too.
Dave
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Be careful with this stuff from Pound shops. Ive had experience of the stuff turning to fudge like consistancy when it gets wet for any length of time guys.
I used it to bond an adaptor to a water barrel and within 4 weeks the adaptor dropped out and the epoxy had turned to a soft fudge like state.
So scraped it all out, bought proper branded stuff....not moved since, so vowed not to use on my boats.....afterall, you dont want to have to do a job twice.
be careful please guys.
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Hi I have been using the stuff for a while and works OK. Just repaired a china mug where the bottom had come off. Glued on no problem, I put the mug in the dishwasher to test it and all the glue area came out pink, still aparently a good joint but not really usable.
regards Roy
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Works well enough for me.
Using quick set epoxies on anything that needs to remain in water for extended periods is inadvisable. Model submariners always use slow set epoxies for anything that comes into contact with water, although in many instances, modified acrylic adhesives can do the same job and better. Also it's advisable to leave bonded items for several days before putting it anywhere near water, they might say the adhesives set in a certain time, but they only reach their maximum cure state after some days.
I sometimes mix some cotton flock in with the adhesive, makes it really strong.
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Subculture, what do you mean by cotton flock????
Mark
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Just add cotton wool either from a cotton bud or cosmetic balls into the mix, agree with previous comments don't use it if exposed regularly to water.
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HI Rich, thanks for that, never gave it a thought!!!! almost like adding glass rovings without the hassel
Mark
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Hello I use this-
https://www.bucks-composites.com/products/micro-fibres-cotton-flock
Mixes in like a powder, but seriously strengthens the epoxy, and reduces sag.
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Subculture. Thanks for the link, just ordered a load of stuff, quite cheep to
Mark
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Yes a good independent supplier of high quality materials. I also like to use easy composites and East coast fibreglass, as they all tend to offer slightly different products which are useful if you work with composites.
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Have used Easy composites, but not East coast. Easy have some superb how to videos, well worth watching
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Yes. They do tend to major on very high end composite construction though e.g. pre-preg, carbon fibre etc. Overkill for all but the most exotic R/C projects.
A really good source of videos are the fibreglast (sic) videos on Youtube. They do an eight part series on small size epoxy glass tool construction and moulding, which is excellent.
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Far better to add glass rovings than cotton wool, after all that is what it is designed for. nemesis
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Good luck getting a neat small bead with glass rovings. The microfibres give very high strength. I use glass reinforcement too, but only in areas that need extremely high strength, and/or are well concealed.