Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: Mark T on December 26, 2017, 01:51:33 pm
-
Hi All
Well after a bit of a break its time to start my second build log :-)) This time its going to be a steam powered tug and I should say up front that this is my first foray into steam and also my first attempt at a double planked build. If you did see my last build you will know that I'm a pretty slow builder due to time constraints at home but I will do my best to keep it up to date. So..........whats in the box?
The kit seems very well thought out and comes with a very impressive set of accessories. At first glance there are lots of well made brass parts and what looks like a very good anchor winch which I believe with a bit of fettling could be made to work with a small motor. There is also all of the rigging, a 55mm cast brass propeller and a substantial towing hook too.
The laser cut parts seem cleanly cut and the plywood looks like its good quality. The planking is limewood and there is 135 strips that are 1.5x7x930mm in size. It does have a prop shaft included and 4 large 1:1 scale drawings to help with the build. The rest of the instructions are 4 A4 pages of poorly translated from Italian written instructions so I'll see how I get on with those.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1989.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1991.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1993.jpg)
The Steam plant is suppled by Pendle Steam Boilers and is a 3.5" boiler with a matched separator and 3" gas tank
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1990.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1962.jpg)
The Engine is a TVR1ABB which is a little beauty to build
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1979.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1977.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1978.jpg)
Which will also drive a boiler feed pump which was made for me by my mate Oohyah/F (George) from this forum ok2
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1936.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/26/IMG_1937.jpg)
The plan from the off is to build the hull around the steam plant and its going to be a very very tight fit with many issues to overcome. The plant will be fully enclosed and hopefully I will solve them all with a lot of help.
Wish me luck - Mark :-)
-
Good luck! :-))
Nice to see another steam build, and another of George's fine little pumps being brought into service. I will follow with interest. O0
Greg
-
seasons greetings Mark
I can not see any Brasso or Duraglit or are you Solvol Autosol man in the new kit. good luck and enjoy .
-
Hi Mark,
It looks like it will be an interesting build. Just make sure that at all stages of the build you can still remove the steam plant for service it, preferably on a single mount. One model I built you had to remove all the components individually which made it very difficult.
Regards,
Gerald.
-
Very nice bits for your tug! The TVR is not a very powerful engine, and is not really made for higher pressures (above 30 psi). Just wondering if it has enough power to run both the pump and prop shaft. Have you tested the water pump on shaft against boiler pressure? maybe needs reduction gearing?
-
Hi Greg - Cheers mate
Hi David - Seasons greetings mate and lovely to hear from you. I must be honest nothing it going to be polished on this one its all going to be a matt finish :-) (Even if the pump looks a bit shiney in the picture %% )
Hi Gerald - Its already on a one piece mount but I have just not posted that far ahead yet. I'm a very slow builder so I've been working on it for a while before I started this log otherwise it would have been far too boring and slow to follow. Your piece of advise though has seen me make some good decisions with this build which have in turn caused some real problems that had to be overcome. Especially trying to get everything under decks but also still be accessible and serviceable.
Hi xrad - Always good to hear from you. The engine turns the pump very easily on both air and steam with as little pressure as 10 - 15PSI. I have found with the TVR that the correct valve timing makes such a difference to the performance of the engine and I have spent many hours experimenting with this and I'm sure that there is still room from improvement. Also good lapping between the valve slides and the cylinders makes quite a difference too. Having said all of that I have not had it with a propeller on as well - but if I try and stop the engine with my fingers - well the engine wins every time. I must be honest this is my first steam engine and I have been surprised just how much power this little plant has so I can only imagine what other makes must have. Its purpose is purely for my sailing enjoyment and not for any tug pulling competitions so I hope that its ok for the job at hand.
-
Bonjour Mark,
Very good choice, several of my friends have done or recreated this kit, with a TVR1A exactly.
Jean-Pierre : Original kit - 1 m (video in English ok2 ) : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30
Guy : 1,20 m and same steam machine : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1B6etQ30b8 => 27 kilos !
-
T beautiful tug model this one. I look forward to seeing it come together.
-
O0 Fantastic Mark! I'm subscribed to this baby :-))
-
Having followed your Fairmount Alpine build, I feel sure this one will be very interesting to follow, so I'm in as well - good luck Mark.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Nice choice! I love the look of this Tug, my next build will either be this or the Imara, but thats' a long way off as i'm barely half way on my current build!
Will be following this, g/luck! :)
-
Thanks all :-)) its going to be a very long build as there is so much to do and thanks Raphael for the links they are very nice boats. It is a very pretty tug when completed correctly so I'll give it a good go. Ok lets start
The keel is assembled from 3 parts as was my last build so I can only imagine that this is a standard amongst model boats. It was held down on a flat board to keep it straight and was placed on cling film to stop the glue from bonding the whole thing to the board. The wood is 1/4 ply and seems to be of a very good quality. Its 890mm long.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/27/IMG_1994.jpg)
Next was to make a keel board to keep it nice and straight during the first part of the build.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/27/IMG_1995.jpg)
Then I simply popped the bulkheads out of the plywood and dry assembled the hull to get an idea of size. The fit of the bulkheads was very good and required no sanding what so ever they just simply slotted together. The horizontal decks are not part of the finished boat. They are supplied in the kit to keep the bulkheads in the correct line whilst the planking in being done. Once the planking is complete they are removed and disposed of. A great idea from the manufacturer which will make things a lot easier. Well I hope it does %%
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/27/IMG_1998.jpg)
Now here's a couple of pictures that give an idea of just how much modification this kit will need to get a steam plant in. The parts are obviously just balancing to get a feel for how things need to be; however all of the parts are above the bulwarks let alone below decks. The engine output shaft is approximately 45 - 50mm higher than the boats propshaft and a pulley system will be no good on this build. All of the plant needs to be right at the bottom of the boat or it will just wallow around the pond or capsize.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/27/IMG_1997.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/27/IMG_1996.jpg)
Its plain to see that nothing fits at this stage but its nothing a bit of thought won't sort out - or a big mallet {-)
Mark
-
Mark, your work bench is far to neat and tidy and breaks the rules for posting pictures of your build. You know this will not last........ %%
Joking aside, this has all the ingredients for another classic build and will follow with interest.
Stewart
-
Agreed Stewart {-) almost like an operating theatre %%
Mine has just been tidied
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-qmp2H8v/0/0c361f33/X2/1E290324-084F-4C59-A3C3-5C4A61F024A9-X2.jpg)
-
Mark, May I suggest that you do a tracing of all the wood parts, that way if any get damaged you can make a replacement. another reason is if you want to make another model in a different size you can. I built one model that was slightly too small for the boiler and engine I had so I installed an electric motor, and built another 25% larger, Unfortunately both sold when times were tight.
Gerald.
-
I f I may give some advise ,I would lay out the keel with the running gear approx where it will fit and then mark the keel and cut out that section ,mark the center line on your board then place your frames and keel inverted as it will be quite difficult to remove the keel section after planking.
I realize it is a kit model but they present a challenge to be steam powered but well worth the extra time ( my attachment is of my current build Joffre steam tug.
Cheers
John
-
Hi Stewart and Andy you have obviously never met my wife {-) Honestly she will put up with all of my building including painting in the house; on the condition that I clean up afterwards. I did used to have everything out as you do but soon discovered that everything then gets covered in dust and takes forever to clean afterwards. So now its all in draws and only takes 5 mins with a hoover. Happy wife = happy life %%
Hi Gerald that is very good advice and I was going to do exactly that. Fortunately when I opened the box the plans come with a set of 1:1 tracings of all of the wooden parts i was most impressed!
Hi John thanks very much for the photo of your build it looks great. The plan for my boat is to fit the steam plant and all of the running gear and iron out any problems whilst its still a skeleton. Once I've done all of that I will do exactly the same as you - well hopefully anyway. The plans advise that the first 4 planks should be fitted to the bulwarks on both sides to keep the whole thing straight before commencing on any other planks. The plans are quite specific about this and having looked, it would seem that they work together with the false decks. I'm a long way off of that yet and I'm sure that I will have lots of questions before I attempt fitting planks.
Mark
-
..... something not right about a clean, organised work bench.... <:(
-
..... something not right about a clean, organised work bench.... <:(
{-) {-) I'm am being guided / instructed / told by a higher power {-) {-)
-
Poor old Mark.......be damned if you do and damned if you don't......ha ha ha.
I have a cunning plan Mark. Take a picture of your workbench all untidy and full of clutter, then get it printed on a roll of wallpaper. Roll the wallpaper out to take pictures, that will keep Mayhemers happy and your missus...... :-))
-
Stewart thats not a bad idea - maybe gets the kids to do a photoshop for me :embarrassed:
-
Hi Mark,
Just seen your post. Really looking forward to following your build.
Cheers
Ian
-
Hi Mark! Sounds like you have the TVR timing as well as possible. Agree w/you: Timing set is not forgiving on this engine. The window for correct timing is very small.
Can't wait to see your build and her in the water!
-
The Hackworth timing is very unforgiving but once sorted this little engine will provide more than enough power. Look forward to more progress updates
-
You are right lads; I ended up using a magnified lamp to see the slides closely so that I could get the timing as good as possible. Even now the engine runs slightly faster in one direction that the other but I'm quite happy with the way its running. I ran the engine in for about 3 hours on air and it seems to have no problems with the steam :-)) I can see though a time and not to far away when everything has settled in and it will need re-timing but the more you do it the better you get at it!
I'll get an update on the build at the end of the week. Unfortunately I cannot upload anymore photos into the mayhem image photo site as I've reached my limit for the week {:-{ Its because I've been uploading the build photos of my last build since the photo bucket issue.
-
Bonjour Mark,
The club "Hippocampe" bought a dozen of TVR1A (examples in the videos shared) and these specialists waisted a lot of time to find the appropriate timing of this sensitive machine. And I do not know any steam machine running perfectly exactly onboth sides, this is why I buy my propellers after my steam tests. You have done a good job, let's go on following your adventure :-)) [size=78%] [/size]
-
If Martin can allow it you can use whatever my allowance is as I don’t use it
-
Ok I'm up posting again as Martin has upped the amount of pictures you can upload to the MBM image server due to my excessive use of it :embarrassed: - thanks Martin :-))
Right its time to start cutting to make room for the steam plant. After much measuring and quite frankly trembling at the thought of cutting up such a nice kit, I simply decided to get the plant as low as it would possibly go. The picture below kind of shows how much I wanted to remove from the keel and bulkheads.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2004.jpg)
Now deciding this caused me quite an issue due to the construction of the kit. Removing this much material completely removed the bulkhead locating slots from the keel and also meant that if I cut the bulkheads without altering them first they would simply fall in half {:-{
So to the keel first; I used the very bottom of the bulkheads as my datum and marked out what needed to be removed. I extended the locating slot downwards and then it was onto the bandsaw to remove the and lower the keel
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2005.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2006.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2011.jpg)
Now the bulkheads; I temporarily filled the pre-cut slots to hold the two parts together. This did not have to be a master piece of carpentry and once the bulkheads were glued in their use would be very limited.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2007.jpg)
And then I glued spruce to each bulkhead to act as both a strengthener and also the main point of contact with the keel. I wanted them to be strong due to the amount of bashing they would probably get whilst making the steam plant fit.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2014.jpg)
Which were then cut to the shapes that I had calculated (guessed) earlier
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2018.jpg)
I was really please with the first trial fit which has really opened up the hull. This is only the first cut as there are many more to make but its a start.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2017.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2016.jpg)
Everything is below decks now and I've got a nice straight alignment between the motor and the propshaft. I've had to move the separator to just above the propshaft as this is the only place it can fit and still give me access through the openings in the deck.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2022.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2021.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2020.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2019.jpg)
I also apologise in advance for my ultra clean workbench {-) I'll get some more pictures up later - Mark :-) [size=78%] [/size]
-
Awesome work Mark........ :-))
-
Thanks Stewart :-)
Having had a bit of a play at putting all of the components in the hull it became apparent that I needed to widen the bulkhead in front of the motor to get access to the coupling and I also had to shorten the keel where the propshaft is positioned.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2032.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2034.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2051.jpg)
This meant that I could not use the supplied propshaft which to be honest wasn't the best quality anyway so I substituted it for a stainless steel shorter one. Now as this propshaft is well below the water line and very short too, I decided to silver solder a grease tube to it and also fit a grease cup as well. I have to thank Cupalloys for their help with this as they supplied me a really good flux for soldering brass to stainless. I'm hoping that having a well greased propshaft will minimise the amount of water that gets in that way.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2041.jpg)
Next I glued the outer propshaft supports together and sanded them into shape. This part was then simply glued onto the keel.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2044.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2050.jpg)
These are the fillets that fit on the bow to allow the planking to be fitted. One has been chamfered and the other is how they are supplied. After chamfering both they were clamped and glued in place on the bow
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2047.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2049.jpg)
And similar pieces being clamped and glued to support the planking near the propshaft
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2048.jpg)
Next was to clamp and glue a former onto one of the bulkheads. This former is purely to help construction and is removed once the planking is complete
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2043.jpg)
And finally for today the stern former was fitted. This piece cause me some real problems as the instructions / drawings are so vague and contradictory here. In the end I fitted it where I thought best so I hope that its correct.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/06/IMG_2042.jpg)
For now thats pretty much all of the modifications that I can do to the hull without putting the steam plant together and then into the hull. So thats up next.
Cheers for looking - Mark
-
Hi Mark,
Following with great interest, lovely work. is it your intention to do as much work with respect to the necessary support frames/beams etc that the steam plant requires at an early stage & before any planking?
ian
-
Hi Ian
Yes the steam plant will be fully working and complete with all RC and wiring before any planking is done. I learnt this lesson from my last build to be honest. I have found that its far easier to do it at this stage rather than later and saves knocking the finished surfaces about. The problem that I have found though with doing things this way is just how vulnerable and flimsy the boat is without any planking. I'm just trying to be as careful as possible but it doesn't always work. I have already caught one of the bulkhead ribs with my sleeve and snapped it clean off. After much swearing and a cup of coffee I repaired it :-) The downside though is the actual building of the boat starts much later.
Mark
-
Lovely work as usual there (precision) :-) re catching ribs, Have you considered pinning a plank uppermost on each side?
As a temporary measure.
-
Hi Mark,
A nice job on the prop shaft. You may want to use oil in it instead of grease, especially if you are running in cool water. I have had Grease filled prop shafts create so much drag that the motor stalled .
Regards,
Gerald.
-
Andy a great idea and I really wish I had done that - One for the future for me
Hi Gerald I've heard of the grease stalling the propshaft before so I think I'll give it a try and if I get any problems I think your suggestion of using oil would be a sensible alternative. I can only think that some type of hydraulic lock would be the cause of grease causing that much drag. I'll do some tests and see if I get the same problem
-
You know you want one :-)
https://maccmodels.co.uk/reilang-oil-cans/200ml-double-pump-aluminium-reilang-oil-can.html
-
My thoughts are that grease just languishes and holds any swarf from wear whilst oil continually very slowly drains away and is refreshed.
MMM recommended thick oil and I agree with that.
-
I use hypo 90 gear oil on my shafts and lub box on my steam plants, I have been doing this for 40 odd years and have had no problems. A few chums did try grease......not with any success. :((
-
Like it :-)) I never thought of gear oil, better than my old 20/50 cheers :-)
-
Rather than carry a shop full of petroleum products you could try
a light green sewing machine oil ISO VG 10.........engine bearing & the like O0
a dark green steam oil ISO VG 460.....displacement lubricator
The latter would also be a suitable stern tube lubricant :-))
Derek
-
Hi All
Some pictures of the start of the steam plant build. I wanted to place the engine and motor onto a base so that it can easily be removed for maintenance and also catch the mess that will drip from the plant when its running. The other issue I have is that the whole plant has to be fitted through the openings in the deck and accessible for use. I started by making a frame from 8mm brass angle that fitted into the hull and then cut a plate from 1mm brass for the base. Its a bit shiney %%
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2059.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2060.jpg)
I then had a trial fit just to see how things fitted together with the prop shaft and coupling and I was really pleased with the results.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2061.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2062.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2063.jpg)
I then finished off the base by running a silicone bead between the frame and the base and then bolted the two parts together with some 3mm stainless steel bolts with some very nice round head nuts. The four slightly larger holes are for mounting the plant into the hull. They align with holes on the bulkheads that I have tapped out to 4mm and will have stainless steel studs glued into them at a later point. I'm just using bolts to hold it in for now.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2067.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2068.jpg)
Now very fortunately for me the mounting plate sat lower in the hull than I expected which will be good for stability but I also discovered that the motor was now 3mm too low for straight prop shaft alignment. So I made a little plate to raise both the motor and boiler feed pump.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2069.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2070.jpg)
I've now got good alignment - In fact the plate is so low that the highlighted bolt had to be turned around the other way as the nut will be in the way of the planking! Fortunately it simply turned around without fouling the engine - more luck than judgment
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2071.jpg)
I'll get some more pictures up later but this build is so enjoyable and really makes me scratch my head at times with the problems the conversion is throwing up.
Mark
-
I do look forward to your updates Mark. Really is going to be a beauty. Keep up the fantastic work. :-))
-
Why do we drool over steam and brass O0 Lovely Mark :-)
-
Thanks lads - honestly I'm loving doing this build. Ok another update :-)
Now that the base for the boiler and motor is on its way I needed to mount the gas tank and the oil separator. Now luckily the gas tank comes fitted with some very nice feet which are tapped out should you want to bolt it to something. I however need to remove the gas tank for filling as I don't want to blow my boat up with lost gas falling to the bottom of the hull %% The feet are large enough to stand the tank up on its own so I made a base which simply allows the feet to locate and then the stability of it will come from the attached pipework. It is a simple base which has a 1mm brass top just to accommodate any wear of putting the tank in and out.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2079.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2080.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2083.jpg)
Next the separator needed to be mounted in the only position available in the hull and that is just above the prop shaft. This was quite tricky as I needed it to allow me access to the prop/motor coupling; line up with a deck opening and be as low as possible to keep stability of the hull. So I made a little shelf for it to fit on and epoxied some 3mm stainless steel bolts in as once the deck is on there will be no way of getting under the shelf to insert them.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2084.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2085.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2086.jpg)
After the shelf was built I started on the pipework now that the main components were installed. Firstly the boiler feed pump to the clack valve which goes through a bypass valve. I have since fitted an isolation valve too. The boiler is now also bolted to its base using 2BA cap head bolts.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_20875625413fc804d41f.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_20880088f200d7eadec6.jpg)
Then I piped in the throttle which is a Microcosm product along with the lubricator to the motor inlet.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2096.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2098.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2099.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2097.jpg)
And then it was the motor outlet to the separator. Now I know that the pipework layout may seem a bit random but that's because I have to fit it around deck rafters and other parts that have not yet been fitted.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2102.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2103.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2104.jpg)
Finally for today the separator exhaust was made. This pipe has an isolation valve fitted as when this valve is closed and the outlet on the separator opened; the waste flows out of the separator outlet which can then be collected and disposed of safely. This pipe will eventually go up the funnel to get rid of the used steam.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/13/IMG_2107.jpg)
Thanks for looking again - Mark :-)
-
It is looking good Mark.
Are you going to insolate the Boiler and pipe works?
Gerald.
-
Hi Gerald
Yes all of the hot pipework will be insulated and the boiler is going to be clad in ceramic first followed by walnut to make it look good and also try and make it more efficient
Mark
-
Excellent :-)) sharp, square, up, down & straight...as all tube work should be O0 on a model steam plant Mark .......
From this and other WEB postings, it is clear that the overall quality of the Pendle product is apparent, however the installation of an isolation valve in the discharge port of the de-oiler body [depending on other porting arrangement's] creates the potential to pressurise the vessel.....so some may say that this can only be exhaust pressure, so yes.....but this can see stalled engine pressure which is boiler relief valve pressure
Placing an additional isolation valve [globe or needle] in the exhaust line off the engine will create exhaust back pressure relative to the pressure drop across the valve. In most model steam plants, the exhaust line is the largest diameter possible with the minimal number of fitting restrictions as possible
I must also be missing something :o in the planned evacuation of waste oily water from the de-oiler if ported as per the last image
Derek
-
Bonjour Mark,
Sorry if it seams rough but I would like to give you my opinion. Your piping, in and out has too many angles.
The exhaust one with 180° just after the cylinder will create an against pressure wich will seriously affect engine performance. Perhaps could you return the screwed pipe and shorthen this part ?
Is is said that 90° looses 30 % of power, of course it is wrong, but 4 times the in piping will ruin benefits of reeating the steam. Perhaps could you save several milimeters to go down directly from the chemny to the RC valve ? Detail, it would be better if the oiler would be installed before the RC valve, one of my boats is installed like yours and the RC valve becomes difficult to operate with the heat.
You have nospare room, it is a challenge but you can yet think about it, when the boat is finished, it will be too late ok2
-
Looking really nice. In view of two previous comments consider turning exhaust manifold through 180° and go straight into separator tank without the 180° bend. I wouldn’t bother “drying” the steam before putting it in the engine as the TVR doesn’t like it. Instead I would heat up the cold water from the feed pump before the clack valve. Putting cold water into the boiler in my experience slaughters your boiler pressure. No need to throttle exhaust from separator to empty same, the pressure across the tank will suffice to force condensate out of tank.
Lovely work,
Jerry.
-
Hi All
Thanks for the comments and I'll do my best to answer them.
Derek - I think that you are right about the globe valve in the separator exhaust pipe causing a small restriction but its there for a purpose. When the engine is running the plan is to close this valve and deliberately pressurise the separator vessel. The outlet globe valve is then opened on the vessel which blows the contents out which will be sent down a flexible/removable pipe for collection and disposal. When its empty just simply reverse the process. You are also correct about the quality of the Pendle products. I have fired the boiler and it give out more power/pressure than a TVR motor could ever use which in a way should (I hope) negate some of the restrictions that I have placed on the overall plant.
Raphael and Jerry - You are both right there are too many bends for optimal performance but let me tell you what I tried before taking this route. I tried turning the motor exhaust manifold around but after many attempts I could not successfully join it to the separator. The pipe bend was simply too tight. I thought about moving the motor back but then this causes me similar issues at the inlet end. I wanted to have the lubricator before the throttle but again I just could not get the pipework to fit. I still want to do this though so I may change the lubricator to a different type so that I can achieve this as I'm sure that I will have issues with the throttle sticking otherwise. I really like the idea of heating the boiler feed water :-)) I'm going to put some thought into this.
The good news is this boat will hit the water before the deck is installed so that any problems can be ironed out. Its quite difficult when posting this build to get across the limitations that are placed on me with regard to pipe routes etc. As the whole thing is under decks I've had to find compromise after compromise buts its fun finding the solutions :-)
Mark
-
:-)) ,,,looking great,,
-
hi Mark does the boiler have extra support besides the bolts in the centre ? it is usual to have the boiler supported by a cradle n both ends also the piping appears to be brass or is it the camera flash .I hope that I don,t appear to be pickish but I do have a few years experience with model steam and some things just jump out so keep up the excellent work as I am in a similar situation with my Joffre build
Cheers
John
-
Thanks Bernhard :-)
Hi John the boiler was made with built in feet that have a 2BA thread in them. They are very substantial and Nigel at Pendle Steam told me that they are very difficult from an engineering point of view to get right. It really is absolutely solid on the base. Also you are spot on regarding the pipework. Its all brass and pleasure to work with as long as its kept annealed properly :-))
Mark
-
Bonjour Mark,
You are the one who builds, you know what is possible or not so I fully understand your answer. Next time, choose a larger boat ;)
-
{-) You are so right there Raphael this really is a shoe horn job but its getting there :-))
Moving onto the gas tank I have started with fitting a gas shut off valve should anything go wrong. This part was supplied by Jerry at Clevedon Steam who I have found to give great service and back up on what he sells. I would really recommend this supplier. I did modify the mount that comes supplied so that it bolted directly to the servo and I also altered the stainless steel servo mount as the locating holes will not be accessible once the deck is fitted. I re-drilled these so that they will be.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2108.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2109.jpg)
It was then I realised that I had placed the gas tank mount too far forward and that the gas tank outlet valve would just about foul on the deck opening above. There was nothing for it but to remove it >>:-(
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2110.jpg)
And then make another which was about 10mm further towards the stern and also repair the damage to the keel.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2111.jpg)
With the gas tank now in its correct position I connected the gas pipework through a forrest regulator. It certainly was tricky piping this part as not only are some of the bends awkward they have to be accessible to fit once the deck is in place. The pipework does keep the tank very stable which was something that I was hoping for.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2112.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2114.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2115.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2116.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/14/IMG_2117.jpg)
I'll get another update next week - Mark :-)
-
Morning Mark.....after viewing your gas tubing %) I suspect you may have had a previous life in miniature instrumentation installation ok2
Even with my modified 1/8" tube Du-Bro bender, [with one aluminium handle unscrewed] I cannot achieve 2 stage compound bends as you show, and the bend set lengths is governed by the set of the bender.....I am sure a number of members would be interested in the bending tools you are using
Have you chosen an alternate tube material for the gas lines?
We also see the pilot signal for the gas regulator is steam @ ~~ 140 degrees C and accept that this will condense to ~~100 degrees C, however an alternate pilot of water from the lower boiler is available @ ~~ 80 degrees C...or a little friendlier on the Neoprene diaphragm in the regulator
Derek
PS...I think we will just have to wait & see what will be removable....and what fixed <*<
-
Hi Derek I use the same pipe benders as you and sometimes a spring. To get a close set in the pipe you have to bend it slightly out of alignment. Then when it’s out of the tool make sure it’s still annealed and then manipulate it straight by hand. If you need to make two bends very close to each other you must not let the tool drag the pipe in. You need to hold the pipe as well as the tool to make sure that it goes around the former correctly.
The pipe that I’ve used is 1/8 brass and it bends easily enough. Another thing I always do is measure the pipe through it’s centres rather than the edges if that makes sense. As for the regulator it’s installed as per the manufacturers instructions and that’s all I know about it really. I’ve yet to see if it actually works
Mark
-
Hi All here's the next update; firstly the bad news I've just realised that I've incorrectly piped up the gas regulator. The burner and tank connections are the wrong way around so I will have to rectify that sooner rather than later. I've ordered some more 1/8th brass pipe to sort it out. It won't take long but that will teach me to read the instructions properly :embarrassed:
Now onto the hot pipe insulation as I've been thinking about this for quite a while. I have never been a fan of wrapping the pipe in string as to get a good finish it seems to me that it takes a lot of effort. Many coats of plaster, followed by lots of sanding and then at the end its brittle and cracks easily. I have seen some really lovely well executed examples of this technique but time is the one thing that I don't have lots of so I wanted to find a simple and quick solution.
After having spoken to a couple of experienced steam modellers about my idea to use silicone pipe I decided to give it a go. I thought of silicone as its a good insulator and does not absorb water like string can. So I did a bit of digging and discovered that silicone comes in different cure types for different applications. It just so happens that platinum cured silicone comes in various diameters in white and does not degrade or discolour over time.
So here's what I did. Firstly cut the silicone pipe down its entire length and then wrap it around the pipe. Then glue it back together with a glue called Silpoxy which sets in about 15 minutes. I found that its easiest to do a short piece of the insulation at a time and hold it in place with tie wraps. Then simply work along the pipe and once the glue is set just trim the ends. Anyway enough waffling from me have a look at the pictures as they tell the story better.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2140.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2142.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2167.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2166.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2143.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2118.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/19/IMG_2119.jpg)
I'm really pleased with the results and its does insulate very nicely. Its very quick and easy but the down side is that the Silpoxy is very expensive for what it is. Its £10 plus £10 postage for some reason {:-{ However the time saved and durability is probably worth the cost.
Thanks for looking and later in the weekend I'll post how I modified the motor so that it could be reversed via a servo. Well my take on it anyway.
Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark,
What an excellent way to insulate the pipes and it looks good as well, what do you use to clean the Silicone after having dirty greasy fingers all over it.,
or do you need to have clean fingers to start with ?
Your pics explain a lot.
George.
-
Hi ya George
I have found that white spirit works well but the best cleaner by far is good old fairy liquid. It brings it up like new ok2 One thing I forgot to mention was to remove as much excess glue before it sets. Its difficult to remove once its gone off and takes a sharp scalpel to remove in it.
Mark
-
Just picking my jaw off the floor Mark.
That is a seriously lovely piece of work.
I was wondering how you were going to insulate the pipes and your solution is fantastic.
-
Thanks Stuart but to be honest I don't think that this is a new idea and I'm certain that its been tried before. But before I tried it I ran it by some members of our forum to see if they thought that it would be possible. They thought that it would be so I just delved a little deeper and I got the encouragement that I needed to really give it a go. Luckily it worked out - and I can't emphasise the word luckily enough. The supplier of the silicone also proved to be a very good source of information and was extremely helpful :-))
-
Goodness, not only is the tubing bent with great layout & accuracy, now this alternate insulation appears so tidy with apparent ease and speed of application....10/10 Mark :-))
Derek
-
Thanks Derek this build really is a work in progress and is changing all of the time mainly based on feedback from this forum. I'm still trying to move the lubricator in front of the throttle but I'll keep you updated.
Onto the motor - I've seen quite a few different examples of converting the hackworth gear so that it can be moved by a servo and I've always thought that simple = good.
I stripped the motor down and drilled out and tapped the hackworth mechanism so that it would accept a 3mm stainless steel stud and then screwed a snap link onto the back. I also needed to turn the detent bar around to allow for a smooth operation and I drilled and tapped a 2mm hole to fit a bolt which acts as a stop. I read on this forum somewhere that if the actuating arm moves too low it may possibly bend the valve spindles. I don't know if this is correct but I did it anyway. I then simply moved the whole mechanism to one side so that it slid easily up and down the smooth side of the detent bar.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2128.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2129.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2130.jpg)
Now I can sum this first effort up in one word - FAIL!!! Unfortunately when I went to put the cylinders back on the 3mm stud was in the way so moving it all to one side simply will not work. I found the solution but modifying another snap link which allowed me to centralise everything again.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2137.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2138.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2139.jpg)
I'm glad to say this solution works very nicely :-)) Its easy to do and sturdy; if I was doing it again I think that I would use 2mm studding as that would be ample.
Next was a modification to the hull to get the new mechanism in with the little bit of clearance too.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2150.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2152.jpg)
Which was then connected to a operating servo; I made the servo arm a little longer as the throw on the hackworth gear is long. It all seems to work very nicely and I'm hoping that by keeping it simple I won't have too many issues once its on the water.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2153.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2154.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2155.jpg)
Next was to fit a servo for the throttle. I have used some really nice stainless steel servo mounts that are available from Clevedon Steam.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2123.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2124.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2125.jpg)
And finally the boat so far with all of the hot pipework insulated including the motor manifolds.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/20/IMG_2156.jpg)
The next job is to modify the funnel so that it fits the model and also run the exhaust up it.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Think this deserves a place in the masterclasses Mark........ O0 O0 O0 O0 O0
-
Hang on mate lets not get ahead of ourselves as theres not a plank on it yet. It might end up like a Chinese junk that floats like a U boat %% Albeit a steam powered U boat / junk hybrid {-) Thanks for the nice comments though :-))
-
Great job Mark have you worked out what ballast she may need, need room for that too
Cheers
John
-
Hi John
I think that it will need very little ballast which is a concern. If my guesstimates are correct I believe that it will need about 0.75kg of ballast. The steam plant has been getting heavier as its gone along and this is due to my lack of experience between what I thought I required and what actually is required. I honestly don't know but I'll find out soon enough. Raphael summed it it by saying that maybe I should have built a bigger boat. I do think that I will be okay - but only just.
Mark
-
Not to worry too much as these tugs sat very low in the water so as long as you can drain the decks quick enough all should be ok as I have seen quite a few similar tug models that do not look the part sitting too high in the water and bobbing around.
Cheers
John
-
Thanks John I really do hope so and I agree with you tugs sit very low in the water. Its one of those things I've made my calculations and I hope that I'm right...............if not its going electric {-)
-
Bonjour Mark,I agree with John, this type of boat can be low on the water so, like on my last tug you can use lead sheets at bilge cut to the dimensions you wish to make a ballast : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVfY9GM4RXQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVfY9GM4RXQ)
Example : The tug JAN, even without superstructure, is very low without a problem : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbvYKKf8tJE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbvYKKf8tJE)
-
Hi Raphael thanks for the links they are interesting :-)) The Jan tug as you say is very low but it looks good for being so low. I think that John is right the decks will need good drainage.
-
Great looking tug JAN Raphael and it can be seen that cavitation would occur if she was higher in the water ,I use lead shot in flexible bags also divers belts can be picked up reasonably cheap at markets ,etc ,keep up the good work Mark .
Cheers
John
-
Hi Mark here is a link that shows an nice example of your build https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_D7PTCHRh8
Cheers
John
-
Thanks for the link John they really are a very nice boat when finished - mines a long way off :embarrassed:
Moving on with the build its funnel time! The funnel that came with the Pendle boiler was a bit too short for the model and I needed to extend it by 190mm. Now knowing nothing about whether this would affect the boiler performance I asked both George and Nigel at Pendle Steam if this would cause me any issues. The advice was simple - it will be fine but when you light the boiler keep the gas as low as possible so that the flame drops back to the burner - as its got a long way to go %%
I ordered some 28mm copper pipe and cut and bent it to suit the model. Have you ever tried bending 28mm pipe with a spring!!! Its difficult especially when my blow torch would not anneal it properly. Anyway I made the exhaust pipe for the motor and ran it up the funnel.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2161.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2160.jpg)
Which now looks like this on the boiler
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2162.jpg)
I then completed the exhaust pipework to complete the circuit and insulated the pipework with silicone as before. Here's a few pictures of how it all came out.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2170.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2169.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2171.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2172.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2174.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2175.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/27/IMG_2159.jpg)
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
The best boat porn on the web :-))
-
The best boat porn on the web :-))
{-) {-)
Okay next up is to mount the rudder servo which needs to go here after the hatched area had been removed
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2186.jpg)
Once the piece had been removed it left the structure very vulnerable so I wanted to make a box for the servo which filled the space exactly. So after a bit of cutting, clamping and gluing I made the box
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2182.jpg)
Which needed a slot to allow the wiring to fit in nicely
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2184.jpg)
Which then looked like this
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2185.jpg)
I then clamped and glued the box into it place
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2187.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2188.jpg)
Which gave me a nice snug fit and put even more strength into the structure
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2189.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2190.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2193.jpg)
And then finally I bored out the rudder tube hole to see how it all lined up.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2191.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/28/IMG_2192.jpg)
Thats it for now - Mark :-)
-
Mark.........the gas tank appears to have taken on a distinctly flattish top %) surface...is this an illusion?......... Derek
-
Hi Derek it’s just the photo as it’s still round O0
-
Hi Mark,
Still following your most interesting build and please keep the photos of how the boiler room & engine room are being configured coming, very informative indeed! I suspect it's something you have mentioned before; do you intend to conduct tests of the assembly under steam before the planking?
Clearly understand the importance & need for the tray to catch the all of drips etc., but have you considered or see the benefit in adding a small thimble size sump to the tray to aid removal of the water/oil mixture, say with a suitable syringe?
Ian
-
Hi Ian yes I’m hoping to get it fully working before any planking is done. I know that I can’t iron out every problem but if I can do for 90% I’ll be happy. I hadn’t thought about a sump - I’ll think about that one thanks for the idea :-))
-
A bit of an update this time to fit the steam whistle. Now as easy as it sounds to quickly fit a whistle its not quite as simple on this build. As its an enclosed steam plant, to run a whistle up through the superstructure was just not going to work. There is not the space available on the deck and it would also complicate putting the superstructure onto the hull when I'm sailing. A solution was found after a call to Clevedon Steam as Jerry supplies a whistle kit that fits inside the funnel.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2195.jpg)
Now as its inside the funnel I didn't want it simply rattling around so firstly I made a support for both the whistle and the engine exhaust. Its just some copper tube silver soldered to a stainless steel stud.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2198.jpg)
I then cut a slot in the funnel to allow the steam pipe to go through which I also found supports the whistle quite well.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2201.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2202.jpg)
And then fitted the top mount that I had made earlier. It made the whistle very secure indeed
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2200.jpg)
Next was to fit the valve that controls the whistle and I had to have a 90 degree elbow made by Jerry to get it to fit. He did a lovely job for me.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2220.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2221.jpg)
Which was then fitted to the boiler and the pipework connected up to the whistle through a straight connector so that the funnel can easily be removed.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2222.jpg)
And finally I fitted the servo to work the whistle. The reason for the springs on the control rod is because the valve must have a positive shut off to close fully. I'm using the springs to keep pressure on the valve and remove it from the servo gears.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2247.jpg)
Mark :-)
-
We used to call springs set up like that "servo savers". You could buy the complete set in one package. I really like the look of that whistle
Gerald..
-
Hi Gerald yes I used to use these on my cars before transmitters were adjustable but I think it will work well in this application too.
Just a quick update I drilled the holes for the servo wires so that they trail back to where the receiver is going to live.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2255-1.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/03/IMG_2257-1.jpg)
Mark :-)
-
Bonjour Mark,
Great ! Your boat is almost finished... Oups, I have forgotten a detail... A hull {-)
-
Hi Raphael; yes you are right it certainly won't float {-) I've got to be honest I'm really looking forward to getting the hull built and seeing it come to life :-))
-
Shame you can't make it from clear plastic Mark.......show off all the great detail...... :-))
-
Shame you can't make it from clear plastic Mark.......show off all the great detail...... :-))
Thanks Stewart; I wonder if anyone has ever done that? I bet it would look amazing :-)) Something for the skilled vac moulders on here to think about.
-
The steam launch my father left me is superb above and below deck, some of it you cannot see, shame really.
Clear vac formed hull could be the way to go....... %%
-
Take some very well framed shots of all that won't be seen later and make a series of poster sized prints :-)) 8)
-
Take some very well framed shots of all that won't be seen later and make a series of poster sized prints :-)) 8)
Actually that a really good idea thanks Andy :-))
Ok onto lagging the boiler and I nicked this method from someone on this forum after having read a few older posts. So its not my idea I'm just copying someone else - well why reinvent the wheel eh!
Firstly the boiler needed stripping down and the first layer of insulation was marked and cut out. I have used 1mm of ceramic paper which apparently is used in kilns somewhere and is good for 1250 degree centigrade.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_1731.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_1732.jpg)
Which was then wrapped around the boiler and held in place with very thin double sided sellotape.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_1733.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_1735.jpg)
I next used wood stain in the areas that may be seen after the wood cladding has been fitted. I think that seeing the white ceramic would look quite bad and this is a simple solution and used before by other builders.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_1737.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_1738.jpg)
I then started the cladding using 3mm x 9mm walnut wood which is really nice to work with
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2258.jpg)
And the angles were planed using my little Veritas plane with is lovely to use. It works just like the full size version and gives great results. I did guess the angle though.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2261.jpg)
I will have to update this a bit later as I'm having a few problems uploading photos but thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Hooray we're back in business now that Martin has sorted out the photo server - thanks Martin :-))
So I carried on planing the planks and gluing them in place around the boiler
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2262.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2263.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2264.jpg)
Which was then sanded down to make it look a bit smarter
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2265.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2266.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2267.jpg)
Next was to make the brass bands that wrap around the boiler. Again I nicked Jerry C's idea of how to make them as I thought that his method look very nice. I started by making some T bolts which have a slider one side a a 2mm thread in the other.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2268.jpg)
I then silver soldered some tube onto the end of the band
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2270.jpg)
And then using a dremel with a cutting disk I cut a slot into the tube that was wide enough to allow the 2mm bolt to slide through
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2273.jpg)
I did this a both ends of the band and then had a trial fit to see if they were the right length. Please excuse that swarf hanging off and the rough wood but this was just a test fit
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2271.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2272.jpg)
I was quite happy with the fit so first thing was to clean up the ends of the bands so that they looked a little nicer
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2278.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2276.jpg)
And lastly I gave the walnut 4 coats of matt varnish and the boiler ended up like this :-))
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/04/IMG_2282.jpg)
I'm really happy with the way its turned out :} These Pendle boilers are just fantastic :-))
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Outstanding! clearly this is oozing personal satisfaction :-)
-
Mark,
You have managed to improve on what was already a very nice boiler!
Ian
-
Very nice work Mark, it is the detail that is so satisfying :-))
-
Bonjour Mark,
Sorry, but you make a little mistake says one of my friends. In a closed hull, especially in a working boat the boiler should be covered by a skin of painted steel sheet. Wood is for open launches ok2
-
Your soldered bands look neater than my rivets. All a beautiful job.
Following from afar.
Jerry.
-
Thanks for the nice comments ok2
Jerry I’m glad that I did solder the ends as I made them just a little too long. It was a simple matter of just cutting off one end and re-soldering a new piece making them 5mm shorter :embarrassed:
-
Us Black Country guys got to stick together. Me ex Wednesfield.
Bostin ayit ar👌🏿
Jerry.
-
Us Black Country guys got to stick together. Me ex Wednesfield.
Bostin ayit ar👌🏿
Jerry.
According to my neighbours I’m an Honary Black Country man as I’ve lived there for 28 year but I’m originally from the smoke 👍
-
Hi All
So now the boiler is finished it was time to put the whole thing back together which looks like this
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2289.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2288.jpg)
And next I started making a few modifications - starting with the throttle / lubricator set up. This was due to the feed back from this forum and I wanted it to be right, so I changed the set up to one supplied by Clevedon Steam that allowed the lubricator to be in front of the throttle.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2302.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2301.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2311.jpg)
This set up works really nicely so it was worth doing. The next modification was to the whistle in the funnel. Unfortunately I discovered that when the whistle was sounded, sometimes it blew the burner out. So to sort this out I decided to blow the steam out of the side of the funnel rather than inside it. To do this I simply drilled and tapped two 3mm holes and tuned the whistle around. I also made a hole for the outlet.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2304.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2305.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/10/IMG_2308.jpg)
But I guess most importantly heres a video of the steam plant up and running O0 You will have to excuse my wittering on it :embarrassed:
https://youtu.be/kfNlVzpBM74
So tomorrow I'm going to try and make another modification. I have noticed that I am getting a bit too much back pressure in the separator and I want to reduce this. I know that the problem is the motor exhaust so I'm going to try and re-route it and also make it out of a larger diameter tube. I'll let you know how I get on.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Well I said that I would update you
Disaster
After hours of trying different pipe bends etc I have managed to ruin the motor exhaust manifold >>:-( My fault entirely and I've realised that to join the motor to the separator the way that I need too I will have to use a flexible coupling. Its not something that I wanted to do but I just cannot have the back pressure the way that it is.
I've emailed Graham Industries to see if they can supply me a replacement manifold but I've heard that they are not very good at answering them. So if anyone knows a supplier that may have an exhaust manifold please let me know.
On the positive side - thanks for the messages on youtube regarding the steam plant running :-))
Oh well its only a minor set back but it may take time to get a replacement part.
-
Hi Mark,
I have been following your build with keen interest as my next step when I complete the "Marcher" build to assemble a steam plant & install it in a suitable hull. Very sorry to lean that the exhaust manifold is damaged. If spares are difficult to obtain are you able to repair it or make a replacement?
If you are stuck I would be happy to have go at making a replacement at no cost just byway of helping a fellow modeller.
Cheers
Ian
-
Hi Ian
Wow - see this is why I love this forum because help is always out there. Ian I think that I will be okay but I cannot thank you enough for the offer. Graham Industries has sold so many of these engines that I'm certain that I can get a replacement but I also know that it will take a while.
I was silver soldering very - very close to the fittings and I knew that I was taking a risk. Some times you get away with it and other times .......well it just falls apart while your looking at it {-) I've had my fair share of luck so I cannot complain. I'll let you know how I get on but thank you very much again :-) I'm looking forward though to seeing that lovely Marcher engine power one of your boats :-))
Mark
-
Could just watch that video all day O0
-
Hi Mark,
I have been watching your latest video & a thought has just struck me. In order to reduce the number of bends from the exhaust manifold would it help if the manifold was simply turned around so the outlet was pointing the other way towards the separator?
Let me know if you still require any assistance.
Ian
-
Bonjour Mark,
Sorry, but you make a little mistake says one of my friends. In a closed hull, especially in a working boat the boiler should be covered by a skin of painted steel sheet. Wood is for open launches ok2
Raphael,
I think that you are the one who has made a mistake, as when viewing several of your Y-Tube Video's there are at least 3- St Tugs with timber clad boilers which I assume are all yours.
It surely doesn't matter what the builders preference is in Lagging his boiler, in this case he has made an Excellent finish of the timber lagging.
George..
-
Hi Mark I would advise using a lower melting silver solder like plumbers use and a pinpoint torch the solder will not melt due to the lower temp exhaust.
Cheers
John
-
One of the silver bearing solders like Stay-Brite might work it is 5%silver.
Gerald.
-
Bonjour George,
You are absolutely right, most of my closed boats have wooden boilers (bought like this), this is why I have been informed that I was wrong. And I fully agree with you, it does not matter ok2
It is very difficult to find videos of real boilers, here examples of what I found : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0RO7OckmWE or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-ImwmHejDc or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJLkOGUH2Pc show that boilers are not like our ones.
-
Those boilers looked exactly like the ones I tended while working as a Boiler Operator, except ours had electric ignition.
Gerald.
-
Hi All
Firstly thanks for the comments and the suggestions they are very helpful. I've ordered a new manifold which will take about 2 - 3 weeks to arrive so I can't get too much done before then.
Ian you are right about turning the manifold around and this is exactly what I was trying to do, but its all so close together its very difficult which is why I did not go this route in the first place. I would have achieved it though if I would have used a flexible pipe to connect the manifold to the separator which is the way I'm going to go now.
I have had a go at the other end of the exhaust pipe though which runs from the separator to the funnel. I decided to use 3/16 tube for the exhaust which I guess is the equivalent in steam terms of a young lad putting a big bore exhaust on his Vauxhall Corsa {-)
Using this larger tube caused me a few issues - firstly its really hard to manipulate without it collapsing even with the correct size benders. Secondly I could not fit the tube through the funnel using fittings as the 3/16 fittings are huge. So I resorted to simply running a nice straight pipe up the funnel with a nice swept bend on the bottom.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/17/IMG_2313.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/17/IMG_2314.jpg)
I then made the pipe from the separator using a much larger valve straight out the top of the separator. This was then connected to the funnel by a flexible pipe.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/17/IMG_2315.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/17/IMG_2316.jpg)
Now its not as pretty as before {:-{ but it will work much better than the last version especially when the engine exhaust manifold is a straight connection to the separator. I think that I need to make a support for the long tube but as always I welcome your comments on what I hope is an improvement. I think its a case of function over form. I'll get another update when the manifold arrives and then I can get on with building the hull which is my favourite job O0
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Bonjour Mark,
My friend Emmanuel is liking challenges as you, he installed his TVR1A steam plant in a small and narrow boat ok2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sCzolavGB5I
-
Hi Mark you could bend the pipes neatly at both ends and connect them with silicon tube hidden under the decking just a thought
Cheers
John
-
Well I've still had no joy getting a replacement manifold and I thinks its going to take time to get one. So this weekend I spent far too many hours straightening the manifold and re-opening the outlet on the front cylinder. Its actually come out ok but the front cylinder outlet is still slightly to small but its the best that I can do and also the flanges are now about 1/2 the thickness that they were before. I also have some very painfully singed fingers as I had to keep re-heating the piece to get it to do anything but I'll get over it {-)
Having said that it has allowed me to finish the pipework for the exhaust and if push comes to shove I can use this manifold but I'm still going to perceiver and try and get a replacement. I would like to thank everyone for their input as the exhaust pipe is now half if its original length and has increased in diameter from 5/32 to 3/16 and the back pressure has all but gone.
A few pictures of the finished pipe work and underneath the short piece of silicone tube is brass tube that is only about 2mm apart so its a very good joint
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/IMG_2319.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/IMG_2320.jpg)
And I've also made the pipe support for the exhaust and put a bend on the end as suggested by John which actually works really nicely
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/IMG_2321.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/IMG_2322.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/IMG_2323.jpg)
So that's it for the steam plant as it works very nicely and so does the RC gear. Its now going to be fully stripped out and I can start building the actual boat so its back to the woodwork for me. Now I'm a slow builder so please don't expect weekly updates but I will make sure that the entire build is on here as it progresses until it hits the water.
This has been my first live steam build and I can't thank everyone enough who has given me advice and encouragement. I do have to say a special thank you to my friend George (Ooyah) who has answered my almost daily emails about technical problems that I just did not understand. I learnt a lot and I just cannot thank him enough :-)) Also Nigel at Pendle Steam who backs up his products like no one I've ever dealt with before. I'll be getting my next boiler from him too. Anyway enough of my rambling lets get on a build a boat %%
-
Hi Mark great job ,also may need some reinforcing at the bottom of the frames and or top bracing before planking
Cheers
John
-
Hi Mark,
Tremendous work, the whole plant looks a delight. Trust you have taken lots of photos. Once dismantled, it would helpful to see some photos of the plant laid out on the bench.
Cheers
Ian
-
Thanks for the comments :-))
A little update today - Firstly I've removed all of the steam plant to get on with building the hull. It looks so empty now and you just can't believe the amount of work thats already gone into this build looking at it now {-) It needed a good clean as it was covered in oil from being flung from the engine crankshaft and I've enlarged the holes in the bulkheads for the wiring. They were 8mm but they are now 10mm as the servo connectors just fitted through and by the time its got two coats of resin on they probably would not fit so it was a precautionary job.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2328.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2329.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2327.jpg)
Next was to put the false decks back in to support the frames whilst the planking is carried out. And this is where I discovered some problems that needed sorting out. Where the bullheads have been left with no support for quite a few months and also had a lot of heat around them from the boiler testing they had moved. Two of them quite considerably and they no longer fitted correctly in the false decks. To solve this I used heat from a hot air gun and clamps to pull everything straight. I did have to completely remove one of the ribs and re-set it. I guess this is really par for the course as I've altered the kit extensively and its been bashed around too. The false decks are removed after planking as discarded and the instructions suggest that they are nailed in but I used screws instead. I also strengthen the whole structure by gluing in some extra supports. It took me two full days to get the hull perfectly straight and aligned :o
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2330.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2331.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2332.jpg)
And then a great moment for me - I removed the hull from the building board where its been for months as now its time to sand the bulkheads into shape for the planks to fit snuggly.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2333.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2334.jpg)
Now I know a lot of builders hate this part of the build but for me this is what its all about. I learnt from my last build that taking your time and getting this part absolutely spot on makes the rest of the build so much easier. So I did a quick survey using a straight edge to see how all of the frames lined up and immediately found two low spots which would cause the planks to have spring in them. I simply marked the low points - surprise, surprise one the low points was the frame that I had to re-set
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2335.jpg)
And then simply glued and clamped some slivers of wood onto the low points to build them up.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2336.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/04/IMG_2337.jpg)
There will be lots more of this kind of repair to be carried out to get the hull perfect, but these two areas were so obvious it seemed the natural place to start - and thats it for now.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
looking great..you are very very correct ,time spent faring the frames is time well spent.. I've given the frame edges a coat of paint to sand away during the sanding process.. sanding using flexible wood strips with grades of sand paper attatched..high and low spot show up show up quickly..
-
Thank you and thats the word I was looking for "Faring". Yes it takes me quite a long time to get the faring right and I like to start at the keel and work my way down the frames. The last time I used many strips of wood just like planks to see if there were any discrepancies between the frames until I got it just about right and I'm going to do the same this time too. I really enjoy building the hull even though it can take a very long time to get it right.
-
Oh I forgot to say that I've ordered some 1/4 x 1/8 brass rectangular bar from Maidstone Engineering to bond and screw to the keel for protection too.
-
Another update from me - I wasn't sure whether or not to post this as I'm unsure how much detail people are interested in. Let me know if its too much and I'll wait until more progress is made before posting again.
Firstly now that I'm building the hull I've been studying the plans that came with the kit. To my dismay although they are marked 1:1 the plans supplied are not to scale. Its not possible to take measurements from the drawings which is a real shame so instead I'm having to guess. I don't think that it would take much for the manufacturer to get something as fundamental as this correct. I think that I personally will be okay but someone just starting out in boat building would struggle as the written instructions are at best vague too. This is definitely a kit for someone with experience (Says the fella who's only built one boat before {-) )
Anyway I have been working away faring the frames and I'm finding lots of low spots that need building up. Its a simple process of just gluing some extra wood on to the frame and then sanding back. I would personally like to thank they various coffee suppliers in the UK for the wood that they have supplied me free of charge in the form of coffee stirrers. They are perfect for the job but they must be clamped very tight as some of these repairs to the frames are just slivers really.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2339.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2338.jpg)
And once sanded look like you have done nothing at all. But this slow process pulls everything straight and makes sure that the planks when fitted are not sprung and fit snuggly against the frames
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2340.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2341.jpg)
Then its just a case of faring the frames little by little until its just about right. Here's a picture of one side of the stern roughed out and the other side un-touched. I say roughed out as its no where near the finished article yet.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2342.jpg)
Here's another example of a low point. Both sides of the stern are now roughed out but the centre of the keel is about 0.5mm low. Its really tempting to just carry on sanding but that would change the shape of the frames so they needed building up.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2343.jpg)
And once sanded it looks like it should and brings the keel up level and straight. This will stop a dip in the planks at the stern and make the planking easier in the long run (I hope)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2344.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/11/IMG_2345.jpg)
So loads more to do as I've only just started really but I hope this is not too much detail
Thanks - Mark :-)
-
Fantastic work Mark - If I could only work with wood!! I would like a big, open top launch to fit one of my boilers and show off all I can, but alas I build boats like you probably build boilers. Keep the updates coming.
-
Mark,
I am late to this build, but as I am just beginning my latest attempt,
I will be watching how an experienced builder does the various tasks, before I attempt them.
I will be posting my meager attempt as I go.
Please keep up the level of detail. You will not bore any one here, and
it will help all of us less experienced builders.
Regards,
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado
USA
-
Hi Mark, Please keep the posts coming.
Regards the actual scale of the plans; the photo-copying process corrupts and alters the true scale by a small %. Therefore a photo-copy of a photo-copy can be 'out' by a fair amount. I believe the error is one of enlargement. On some plans I have seen a datum line line, say 100mm long printed on the plan that allows the plan (or sections of it) to be photo-copied at the correct scale by altering the printer settings accordingly. Which is handy if you need to produce templates or take measurements directly off the plan etc.
Are you able mark a known dimension on the plan byway of creating a datum and photo-copy that section or sections. It is then a matter of trial & error with the printer settings until you get the datum coming out at the right length. Just a thought.
-
Thanks for the replies I’ll keep the detail coming until it gets too much for you all %% or me :embarrassed:
Nigel - Could be my next build but I am sooooo slow you probably be waiting for years!
Jim - I’ve seen your build and that is one lovely boat your going to build so I’ll be following
Ian - I think your spot on there. Fortunately the part I wanted to measure was the bearding line at the stern as the planking runs off of the frames and ends up flat along the keel. I’m just going to do it by eye and as long as both sides are symmetrical it will be okay. I think a less confident builder would struggle a bit but could sort it out with s bit of help and advice
tghsmith - I meant to say that your idea of using paint on the frames to help fare them is brilliant. I’ve actually been using the burn marks from the lazer cutting for roughing out which I guess is the same thing
Mark
-
Hi Mark,
Keep on with the details. My first attempt at a plank on frame was a Dumas kit, which assumed you were a Danish Shipwright. That is a neat tip about the stir sticks (would have to buy some, over here the coffee shops all use plastic ones). With the burn marks from lasers I found you had to sand them off to get the glues to stick.
Gerald.
-
Hi Gerald you are spot on there mate; I learned that lesson the hard way with my last build so now all of the burnt edges are sanded clean.
I've not much to update this week as the faring process is a slow one for me to get to a point where I'm happy with it. I'm sure that you could get equally good results without going to the hassle that I do but thats just me. Any way I thought that I would post a few pictures of my technique of getting this right.
Firstly its difficult to see where you are sanding as matching one frame to another involves so many different angles. I get around this by marking the frame with pencil to see where I am sanding. The far edge is my guide and requires no sanding as otherwise I would loose the shape of the frame and therefore change the shape of the hull. This marking is done time and time again.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2347.jpg)
Once I've taken quite a lot of the excess material off I then only mark the highest point on the frame; again using pencil.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2349.jpg)
And then keep making and sanding until I get a clean sweep on the frame. At this point the frame is just about right.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2350.jpg)
This process is laborious and time consuming - Its the sort of thing whereby I have to do a couple of hours work and walk away for a while. It works for me and will make the planking a whole lot easier in the long run and something that I believe is worth spending as much time as necessary to complete.
I've got it wrong a couple of times which has involved bring the frame back up using my favourite coffee shop stirrers. I have also found that CA is not good for this job it just doesn't seem to give the quality fixing of aliphatic resin.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2351.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2352.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2353.jpg)
And finally this is how I check to see if the frames are correct. I use a 3mm diameter plastic rod and lay it across the frames. I prefer this to using planks as its got a very small contact area and shows up the smallest of errors in my work. This little rod has become my nemesis {-)
Ignore the strengthening on the frames its the light coloured frames that matter.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2354.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/18/IMG_2355.jpg)
And thats it for now. I've got lots of sanding and repairing to do but I am enjoying it which for any hobby is the most important thing.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
time spent fairing the frames will all be returned during the planking and hull finishing,, looking great..
-
Hi Mark,
Lovely work. As you say, the the most important aspect is enjoying and gaining pleasure from the build process.
Cheers
Ian
-
Mark I am enjoying your build thread. I'll be starting the same kit next month when I get back from a family vacation. I have to say I've learned more in your thread than anything the booklet has taught me so far. My version will be "slightly" less complicated with an electric motor instead of steam. Right now, I’m only in the planning stages trying to rectify the ladder (Google image from another build) going to the 2nd deck?? I do not want to take away too away much from the charm of the design, but there are a few items still to be sorted out – at least in my head! Thanks for posting and as far as I’m concerned please be a descriptive as you want. I for one do not tire from the detailed explanation.
-
Hi Rmay - good luck with your build :-)) Your electric build should cause you less issues than I have as I've really had to knock the hull around to get the steam plant to fit.
A small update which doesn't look much but there have been plenty of Mark hours put into this.
First up I marked out the bearding line and cut the rabbet on the keel for the planks to sit in.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/25/IMG_2366.jpg)
Unfortunately I discovered that I had been a bit too heavy handed when I faired the first two frames at the bow. This meant that I had to build them back up again with some wood and then reshape them to the correct level. This is very tricky as its all done by eye and took me several attempts to get it right. Now I know it doesn't look exactly amazing but I now know that its right. I have also finished fairing the one side of the hull. In this photo you can also see the finished repair on the 3rd frame back. Honestly these low points are literally slivers of wood and nothing else.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/25/IMG_2367.jpg)
I've also marked out the stern and skeg to where the planking goes too. This has really caused me to think about how the planking must be done. Ok I'll try my best to explain.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/25/IMG_2368.jpg)
This is a double planked hull and the planks on the skeg sit on top of the skeg and are proud of the surface. Now if I put both layers of planking on top of the skeg it will not look right as it will be too thick and stand too proud of the surface.
So I only want the second layer of planking to stand proud - So the first layer needs to stop 1.5mm short of the finished line and also be rebated into the keel so that they sit flush. So my next jobs are to repeat the same jobs on the other side of the hull and then rebate the bearding line at the stern so some careful chisel work is needed to get this right. I'll get some pictures up to explain this better when I've done it.
Here's a couple of pictures showing the transitions between the frames on the finished side. Goodness this takes ages but is worth it.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/25/IMG_2369.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/25/IMG_2370.jpg)
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark fine job you are doing ,If I may suggest filling the stern section with balsa as the planks may be too narrow and as I assume it will be painted should look ok
Cheers
John
-
Hi John that's a lovely hull that you are building there with some really twisted planks too that look nice and straight. Thats a difficult thing to get right and your looks perfect :-))
I have thought about putting balsa into the stern - but wait for it - famous last words here.............I'm going to try and plank it first as I see this as a real challenge. Lets hope I win {-) If not its balsa all the way ;)
-
Hi All
I hope that this photo explains better what I was trying to say with regards to the keel and skeg. I have now chiseled out a tapered rebate so that the first layer of planks sit flush against the keel on the skeg. The second layer of planks will sit on top of the first layer and therefore stand proud on the skeg. The first layer is 1.5mm inside the final finished line too so that the second layer sits where it should. If that sounds complicated you should try working it out with limited instructions {-)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/02/IMG_2374.jpg)
This was done on both sides and I'm quite pleased with the transitions between the frames. I've lost count of the hours of work that have gone into getting this right. The other thing that I became aware of is as i was cutting the rabbets on both sides the keel strength lessens and becomes quite vulnerable to snapping off. I just treated it very easily to save any damage.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/02/IMG_2375.jpg)
Then it was a good clean up to get rid of any dust and I also used white spirit to get it spotless ready for the planking. The hull was put back onto the building board to make sure everything was straight and level.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/02/IMG_2378.jpg)
Now this is where I have had to stop due to the way the first plank is installed. The picture below shows where the very first plank is laid following the line of the top of the bulwarks. To fit this plank it must be bent and twisted through both planes which ironically goes against planking in general by not being able to let the plank lay naturally. I can see why its has to be done this way and because its the top plank the curve should reduce as it comes lower down the hull. Anyway I've tried and tried and I've realised that this plank is not going on without being nailed to I've ordered a tool for the job. The plan is to fit three planks on the bulwarks to add some strength and keep the whole thing straight, and then turn it over and start at the garboard plank against the keel.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/02/IMG_2377.jpg)
I hope that all makes sense?
Mark :-)
-
I've managed to get a bit more done but not much due to having man flu :((
Now this first plank has caused me a few more issues than it should have to be honest. Firstly the picture on the plans which shows where the first plank goes is really just a "This is roughly where it needs to go" picture and is just a representation. The builder has to make their own decisions and I have had to try to get the best possible position mainly by eye. Anyway as per usual it has taken up lots of hours and in the end I just stopped over thinking it and put it on.
The other problem was that I found that the stern wanted to twist when the planks where installed due to the twist in the planks applying pressure to the frames. I cured this first by making a temporary support at the stern which looking at the pictures is a bit over the top %%
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/08/IMG_2381.jpg)
Then the first plank went on and I've tried to keep a nice clean sweep in its lines as the plan suggests. I gave it a bit of a soak in some warm water but this lime wood is very flexible without getting it wet.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/08/IMG_2382.jpg)
And it was extremely satisfying to see that all of the effort that when into cutting the rabbet has paid off. A nice clean joint on the bow with the plank.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/08/IMG_2385.jpg)
And then for the other side - I've used a mixture of brass push pins. map pins and clamps to hold them in place. The brass pins have been left slightly proud as they are all coming out once the aliphatic resin has set
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/08/IMG_2386.jpg)
It doesn't really look much, but this is quite a mile stone for me in this build. Its also one that has really made me think about how to get the best result from the planking. I just hope that I've got it about right.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark usually the first plank is the garboard plank which is the one next the keel then continue with exact pairs on each side. O0
Cheers
John
-
Hi John - yep I fully agree but the plans on the kit say that this is the first plank to be laid (well in Italian). My plan is to put 2 more planks below this first one on each side to give the hull stability and then turn it over and make the garboard plank. That way I can then come off of the keel straight with the following planks as a said in my previous post.
I'm sure that the reason for this is due to the way the frames are supported by the false decks that are supplied with the kit. I guess that normally the basic framework would be fixed to a board upside down to keep it all straight. Therefore the garboard plank would be the place to start and build from there. Bear in mind that this is my first POF build so I do need to follow the instructions up to a certain point.
-
Hi Mark I really hope that you don't find my comments derogatory ,but as a scratch builder and thrown at least one crooked hull in the bin ,lesson learned ,and without the help and advise from fellow Mayhemers I doubt I would still be building model steam boats.
I am not into kit models but it can be seen on your plans that some planks will be pencil point thin at bow and stern ,will the model be painted or glass fibre?
Cheers
John
-
Hi Mark you may find this link helpful http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,60453.msg637179.html#msg637179
John
-
Hi John all comments are welcome on this thread as everyone has a different point of view, and I like the way fellow Mayhemer's care about each others builds.
The hull is to be double planked and then it will get a coat of resin and cloth and be spray painted as I've had nice results doing it this way before. Ignore the picture on the plans as its just a rendering and is not really representative of the model as I've discovered going along. I shouldn't get many thinly tapered planks as I'm going to use drop planks and stealers. Getting around the propshaft is going to be tricky though.
Anyway I've planked the bulwarks and they have come out quite nicely. This is quite important as the bulwark supports are all removed once the deck is in place so it needs to hold its shape on its own. I have had a little but of clinkering on the bow due to laterally bending of the planks but nothing thats bad and its only slight. I shouldn't get anymore as further planking doesn't need to be bent that way. The hull is also nice and straight so here's a few Pictures.
The planks are fitting very nicely into the rabbet on the stem
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2389.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2390.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2391.jpg)
The planks cut to length at the stern
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2392.jpg)
Looking from the inside
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2393.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2394.jpg)
And above at the bow stem
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/15/IMG_2395.jpg)
They are glued using aliphatic resin as I like to glue the planks together along their entire length which seems to remove any springiness that can occur. So far so good and the next stage is to turn the hull upside down and make the garboard strake. Then I'll start planking from the keel upwards
Mark :-)
-
Thanks Mark all looking good ,here is another link that may be helpful http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=152945
cheers
John
-
Hi Mark, lovely work. What's the design / configuration of those clamps with the knurled barrels?
Ian
-
https://www.micromark.com/Planking-Clamps-10 I'm sure there are other sources..
https://www.hobbytools.com.au/hull-planking-clamp-set-3-16-and-larger/
I've seen some made from thick aluminum channel with a thumb screw that clamps from the frame side..
-
Thanks Ian and yes they are Micromark clamps. They are good but could quite easily be made to save a bit of money
-
Hi All
Sorry its been a while but I've been busy at work and I also came across a problem that just completely stopped me in my tracks due to lack of experience. More of that later but here's what I've been up too including many mistakes!
Firstly I completed the bulwarks which needed a 1/2 stealer dropping in. There is quite a change of angle as the planking goes downwards and no plank can be bent to accommodate this so a full plank was required below. This is the first stealer that I have ever made and was quite pleased with the fit
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2416.jpg)
Which immediately showed me that I had not shaped the stern correctly at all
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2417.jpg)
So to cure this I steamed the stern piece so that I could see the correct shape. I marked this out and reshaped the stern which also meant that I also had to reshape the very rear frames too. In hindsight this was foolish of me not to do this in the first place - oh well we live and learn O0
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2418.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2419.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2421.jpg)
Rather than loose a whole plank I removed just half of the old plank and then clamped a new piece in place
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2422.jpg)
And the results were far better which was pleasing - Another benefit of using a stealer at this point was it removed the lateral bending of the plank too. This was not planned it was just pure fluke but hey I'll take it {-)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2425.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2423.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2424.jpg)
Next to make was the garboard plank, and I started this by making a paper template. I had to go and buy a flexible edge - I've not used one of these in years :embarrassed: I pinned the paper in place and then put the next plank along onto the frames to mark out its shape
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2396.jpg)
I then joined up the dots so to speak
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2398.jpg)
And I ended up with a template that looked like this
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2400.jpg)
Which was then transferred to the wooden plank which was then soaked for a couple of hours and clamped in place to dry on the hull
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2401.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2402.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2405.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2406.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2407.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2404.jpg)
I ended up with a nice fitting plank once it was dry. This lime wood also holds it shape nice too :-))
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2408.jpg)
Unfortunately I then came to a grinding halt <:( I realised that after I had made the garboard plank I had nothing to reference it too. By this I mean that I did not know if it was too far up the bow stem and was it too wide at the stern? It dawned on me that there's more to planking than just banging a few planks onto the hull and hoping for the best. This must be so obvious to most of you but I thought that I could just kind of work it out as I went along - wrong!!!!!
I'm glad to say that I have managed to sort out my problems but I've been typing for so long with this post I'll get some more up later and let you know how I got out of this self made hole.
Thanks for reading - Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark,
All looking great so far. There's a well-known risk of running the garboard planks too high up the bow - as it's so easy to do - but (of course) it causes big problems later. My penny would say:
- Lightly pencil on how many planks you think you'll need at the widest frame amidships.
- Run these 'virtual' plank runs fore and aft, pencilling them on the frames as you go - you'll get a feel for any stealers you'll need. As few as possible is, of course, best.
- The fairest curves will land on the bow and their 'most comfortable' spot - go with this, and trim the garboard to suit.
Keep it up: I'm loving this. :-))
Andy
-
Hi Andy - Thanks and I have to agree with all of your comments and advice :-))
Now this is where I discovered that the planking was not going to be as straight forward as I had hoped. I put a few full width planks onto the hull and the results can be seen below. The planks rise very quickly at the bow and start to overlap.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2414.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2415.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2413.jpg)
I did some looking on the internet at other builds of this boat and I couldn't find any that had all of the planking running from stem to stern? I guess that because this model is painted the planking can be done in just about any way as long as you get the shape of the hull correct. However I see the building as a learning process and I want to see if this hull can be planking with all planks running from stem to stern.
So totally lost with what to do, for the last few weeks I've been reading books and articles on hull planking. Now this it would seem is a very subjective topic and there are so many different methods that I became even more confused {:-{ Many builders it would seem calculate the best fitting width of plank for their hulls and then go and make them. Well mines a kit with 7mm planks so they need to fit one way or another. In the end I just simplified what I think all of the information was saying.
1. Let the planks lay as naturally as possible
2. Plan the planking run so that as few stealers and drop planks are used as possible
3. Break the hull build down into manageable widths by using temporary battens
4. Use these battens to work out the tapers of the planks
5. Whether I like it or not nearly all of the planks will need to be correctly tapered to fit
Now as my planks are 7mm wide I decided to plan my planking based on sections of three planks at a time. I bought some thin strips for the battens and marked out the bands at midships and then let the battens follow the hull. I think that I've had some success but I'll let you all be the judge of that by your comments :-)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2433.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2434.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2436.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2437.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2432.jpg)
I've placed 4 battens down from the bulwarks and 3 battens up from the keel. This leaves me a gap of 34mm between the two sections that will need filling with about 5 plank widths. I think that this is just about the best I can do and I'll soon find out when the planking starts. I'm going to mark the hull and remove the battens and somehow transfer the marks to the other side as a guide. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to achieve this yet so if anyone has any ideas I would welcome them. I can also see that getting around the propshaft is going to be a nightmare but I'll do it one way or another.
My favourite photo of the build so far is this one O0 I like the way the battens swoop up the stern
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/05/12/IMG_2439.jpg)
Sorry for the war and peace update with so little progress in terms of actual building. But this has been quite an education for me so I thought it best to share - Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark,
5. Whether I like it or not nearly all of the planks will need to be correctly tapered to fit
Looks very much like it. As it's a kit, question #1 would be: do you have enough planking material to taper each plank?
The battening process is always a good one - it's used on (full size) clinker dinghies all the time. I've seen builds of those where literally weeks have passed, with the builders tweaking batten positions fractions of an inch at a time to ensure that the plank runs are fair and visually attractive. Of course, in this instance, for a carvel-built hull where the eventual planks will be invisible under paint you don't need to be quite that cautious, but I'd agree the goal is a good one: full-length planks, running naturally, will always make for a stronger hull.
As for transferring batten positions from one side to another:
- Mark the tops or bottoms of each batten on each frame with a pencil.
- Remove the battens.
- For each frame, butt up a thin strip of paper to the keel.
- Copy the batten positions onto the paper.
- Transfer across to the other side.
- Install temporary battens on the other side to check the marks and to ensure frames are symmetrical.
A divider's handy for checking batten marks, too - one point set on the keel/frame corner, the other set at the batten mark.
Apologies if this is all obvious!
Andy
-
Hi Andy
Would you believe it; this is a typical kit that does not supply enough planks to finish the job for the average builder. You only need to make a few mistakes and you will run out - oh well thank goodness for Cornwall Model Boats who have a nice stock of strip wood :-))
Having now marked out my planking runs (well on one side) I actually think that 7mm planks are far too wide for this build. The hull changes shape and direction often and I think that 5mm planks would be more suitable. So my second planking may be done in 5mm which actually would make fewer overlaps in the gaps of the first layer. I guess its just something else to think about over the next few months.
Thanks for the advice regarding marking out the other side of the hull. Funnily enough I will do this on the second planking but having thought things through I'm just making two of each plank for the first layer. Its going to be a bit quicker even if it doesn't turn out completely symmetrical and I'll see just how good my marking out is - or should I say isn't {-)
Today I've had a go at making the first 3 planks below the bulwarks which I've had to make a drop plank to stop them crowding on the bow or becoming splinters at the end. Its turned out ok and I enjoyed working out all of the measurements so that the joins occurred on the frame rather than being in the middle of nowhere, and that no plank is tapered more than 50% of its original width. Its another first for me and my budding carpentry skills {-) Hopefully I'll have a bit more of an update in a couple of weeks
Mark :-) [size=78%] [/size]
-
Hi All
A bit of an update on my planking efforts which I'm having to fit in around quite a lot of family time at the moment - well the sun is out and you have to make the most of it ok2 Ok I made the first section of three planks below the bulwarks which as I said before needed a drop plank fitting in the bow as the tapers on the planks were turning the ends into splinters. I think it came out quite nicely as this is the first time I've made one of these joints before.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2458.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2457.jpg)
And some pictures of the side and stern
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2459.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2461.jpg)
Then I made the next three plank section which I found a little easier as my plank tapering skills are starting to improve purely out of repetition. The nice thing is I only have to measure and make one plank accurately as I can then use this as a template for the next five. I would be lost without my little Veritas plane as its great to get the shape just right without all of the dust that sanding them would bring.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2472.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2473.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2476.jpg)
You can see all of my calculations on the wall board for each bulkhead to work out the plank tapers. I thought that this would be a pain to do but actually I've found it to be a great system that so far seems to be working
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2474.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2475.jpg)
Just a few pictures of where the hull is at the moment without any pins or clamps
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2477.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2478.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2479.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/03/IMG_2480.jpg)
I could really speed the whole planking process up if I changed glues from aliphatic resin to cyano but I've decided at this stage not too. I like the way the resin gives me lots of time to move things into their correct position and if I do get it wrong - sorry I meant when I get it wrong again it simply comes apart. Its slow but enjoyable :-))
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Mark,
Great workmanship and the skeleton is beginning to take shape. I know it's a bit difficult to combine your day job and also to spend time with wife and family especially as it's so warm in the workshop.
I shall keep on looking at progress even if it takes some time.
George.
-
Very nice work Mark...... :-))
-
Thanks lads - I've made some progress but this weekend I've been stripping and rebuilding my sons motorbike engine as he managed to run it dry of oil <*< Its working now as Dad has worked his magic and brought it back to life after changing the crankshaft bearings. Needless to say he's learnt his lesson but the boat has had to wait {:-{
-
Nice work Mark love these old tugs lots of characterCheersJohn
-
:-)) Tip-Top looking real good
-
Planking going very well indeed so far. Keep it up and the hull is going to be beautiful.
-
Thanks very much for the nice comments I really appreciate it :-)) I've now completed the first four sections that I marked out with the battens and its surprisingly gone to plan. I can now start to see the shape of the hull - here are the pictures
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/17/IMG_2494.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/17/IMG_2495.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/17/IMG_2496.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/17/IMG_2497.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/17/IMG_2498.jpg)
Funnily enough its doesn't look a lot but to get the plank tapers right takes quite a lot of work. Now for the really difficult bit - Its time to turn the hull upside down and work from the keel upwards. I'll get some more pictures up when I can hopefully next weekend.
Thanks Mark :-)
-
Hi All
Sorry for the lack of posting but I've done a bit more so time for another update on my build :-))
Firstly it was time to start the planking from the keel which involved making the garboard plank which is quite twisty. I made the garboard plank and the next two that follow too, and then gave them a good soak and clamped them into place.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2499.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2501.jpg)
Once they were dry they looked like this once they were taken off
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2503.jpg)
They were then glued on and I also extended them to the bow stem. You will notice that I made these planks in two halves this is because trying to shape them, bend them and also make them fit into the rabbet at both ends proved impossible for me. Hence the two halves which made the job much easier.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2509.jpg)
The run of the planks meant that they left a gap which was filled with a half stealer plank
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2510.jpg)
And a few pictures of the one side completed
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2511.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2512.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2513.jpg)
Then it was onto the other side - if in doubt use a powerful clamp {-)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2514.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2515.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2516.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2548.jpg)
Next I moved onto trying to plank around the propshaft tube. I knew that this was going to be particularly difficult, and the builds that I have seen tend to make this out of lots of small pieces of wood and quite a lot of filler. I now understand why this would be the favoured method but this is my take on the problem.
These photos are just general measuring and marking out
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2549.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2550.jpg)
I then cut around the propshaft tube and glued the planks into place. A little easier said than done
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2551.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2552.jpg)
I then finished the planking by making a half stealer to fit around the bottom of the propshaft tube and also made the next plank too.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2553.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2554.jpg)
Its by no means perfect but for a first attempt and also first layer of planking I'll take this result quite happily
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/07/21/IMG_2555.jpg)
The next stage is to plank around the propshaft on the other side and then try and progress the planking up and down. I'll post some more when this has been done.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Mark,
Magnificent! You should be very pleased.
Ian
-
Have been patiently waiting for your latest efforts Mark, and not dissapointed. Very nice workmanship.
Stewart
-
Hi Ian and Stewart :-)
Thanks for the comments; the build is coming along ok albeit very slowly. I'm noticing now that my woodworking skills are starting to improve a bit but they are no where near where I would like to be. Practice and time will hopefully improve things.
I keep on thinking about things I could have done better - for example I still get dent marks in the wood even when I try and protect the planks from the clamps. My cutting up to a line leaves quite a lot to be desired but I'll keep at it. I also now wished that I had scarf jointed the planks where they butt together like BB does. Maybe on the next layer of planking I'll give it a go as I've never tried it before.
I am however really enjoying the challenge :-))
Mark
-
Scarfs:
For scarfing model boat planking, you'd probably be best making a u-shaped form (aluminium, brass?) with an eight-to-one slope on the vertical sides. Insert plank, hold it steady, and run a blade down the form to accurately cut the scarf. Repeat for plank#2, the other way up! I suspect it would be easiest to glue the scarf up, off the boat.
Clamp crushing: I always used a sacrificial scrap of ply over the plank to distribute the load. Light crushing can be repaired by a gentle, localised, soak of water: a damp ball of cotton wool works well.
Your planking so far is lovely: a real shame to cover it up! :-))
Andy
-
Hi Andy
Thats is brilliant help regarding scarf joints - thank you :-))
I've seen them but never actually made one and I was wondering if there was a ratio that worked for model boat planking. I am going to give it a go and I'll make a template as you have suggested as I've got some brass that I can use. I'll wait until I'm happy with the results until they make it onto the build itself.
Clamp crushing - what a nightmare >>:-( Just when you think its all protected from the jaws, you remove the clamps in the morning to discover dents. I'll try as you have suggested and see if I can get some of them out.
Now its funny what you have said about covering up the planking; because I was thinking about really trying to get the second layer spot on and then using clear varnish instead of paint. I can't help but feel as though I'm getting ahead of myself saying this but I think I'd like to give it a go. The perfect scenario for me would be to use a very dark wood to mark the water line but this brings up lots of problems for me.
Firstly the second planking would be in exactly two halves obviously above and below this line and I'm not sure how the planking would work out. I would have to look into this and see if its possible to run full length planks this way. To be honest I've not even worked out how I'm going to clamp the first layer of planks to the second layer as there are some really awkward bends that I will need to get together.
Secondly the keel is made of ply which doesn't look good when varnished so it would need a layer of veneer. Once again this is something that I have never tried and it would be a very very tricky shape to get around and also look good.
Lots of food for thought and you can see why my builds take forever {-) I'm learning as I go
Mark
-
Hi Mark, I have discovered your thread only today. Any progress?
You did a wonderful job on the steam plant and on the hull, I really like it. All the planking reminds me of building my tug, which is much smaller though. I used full length planks as well, except on the bottom of the hull, where I resorted to diagonal planking. This was I was able to get everything covered nicely, while minimising the need to shape the ends in difficult shapes.
Anyway, with your beautiful planking, I suggest you keep the wood visible, it would be a shame to cover it with paint. I did this on my tug too and didn't regret it, although it is not necessarily prototypical. --> http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,11688.0.html
-
Hi KNO3 thanks for the link to your build its simply amazing what a lovely job :-))
I've had a much needed break from building, which has resulted in some really nice family and general chilling time. I love boat building but quite often feel the need to step away for a while whilst I recharge my batteries and do something completely different.
Having said that I started building again this weekend and loved every minute of it. I have been popping in and out of the forum just to see what others have been doing but not really contributing.
Well thats about to change as I'm back in building mode and I'll have some decent updates on this build quite soon :-)
-
Well, it's good to hear you're back in business! I completely understand the need to take breaks. I work on my steam engines very only every now and then, when I feel like it. After all it is a hobby and it should be fun, not degenerate into work :-)
-
Hi All
Well after quite a long and much needed break, I've been back on the Anteo and the enjoyment has returned :-) Its funny really now that I'm back building I really have missed it. So where was I on the build.......Oh yes I had just finished planking around the prop tube on one side and needed to do the other side.
Well what a fool I was; never ever stop building at such an awkward point. For the life of me, even after looking back at my pictures I couldn't remember exactly how I did it >>:-( A hard lesson was learnt here as I needed the sides to be absolutely identical, so a job that should have been a bit difficult turned into one that was extremely difficult. I got it sorted in the end and its near identical enough for me.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2605.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2606.jpg)
Next I started moving forward towards the bow and I used the marks that I had previously put on the frames as a guide. Its funny as I have noticed that I do not sand any planks at all any more. I use my little plane which is quick and makes less mess. It wasn't an intentional change it just seems to have happened but it works very well for me
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2609.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2607.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2608.jpg)
Do you think I use enough clamps %% I've actually found that I'm using less glue on tighter fitting joints now, and its been nice using my home made clamps too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2610.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2635.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2633.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2634.jpg)
Now that I've got this far I decided to concentrate on the starboard side as I'm not worried about distorting the hull anymore. Its nice and straight and nearly complete. So moving down the starboard side I like to put the planks in in groups of three. I'm sorry about the dark pictures I'm not sure what I did wrong taking these pictures
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2645.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2646.jpg)
So its been loads of plank tapering and fitting and I've been loving it. I'll get some more pictures up tomorrow of where I'm up too.
Thanks for looking and sorry its been so long being updated - Mark :-)
-
That really is a nice piece of planking, keep up the good work, I will of course keep following you build thread :-))
-
Nice work Mark, proper job. Will be heading back your way again in May. Reverse of 2018 cruise so in Dudley area late May early June probably. Must meet up this time.
Jerry.
-
Hi Phil and Jerry its nice to hear from you both and thanks for the comments; and yes Jerry lets meet up next year :-))
Ok so there are only two planks left to install on the starboard side to close the hull up on that side. To work out the width of the planks I use proportional dividers; in fact I use these quite a lot now as it saves having to do so many calculations on my white board. I've not used ticker tape here to allow for the curve of the frame as its almost a straight line between the planks.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2648.jpg)
I then put all of the measurements onto a plank and cut it to shape. Here's a really good technique that I learnt from the web to put a lateral bend into a plank. Simply use three clamps on a board to set the bend and then heat it up. Once cooled down it maintains the lateral bend which allows the planks to sit flat on the frames which stops any clinkering. I wish that I had known this when I had started my planking and its saves spilling the plank too :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2649.jpg)
To get the final plank shape which obviously needs to be a very close fit, I used masking tape. Simply stretch it over the gap and use your finger nail to mark the lines onto the tape. The place the tape onto the plank and there you have it - the perfect shape that just needs a little fettling to fit properly.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2650.jpg)
I then used pins to hold this last plank in place
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2653.jpg)
If you look closely at the brass clamp you can see that I had to use a half stealer to close the gap in the stern
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2652.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2654.jpg)
Ans then for the first time really you can see the correct shape of the hull. Its a bit rough looking as it needs sanding and some filling but its not too bad. I very pleased the way the planking has fitted in the rabbet at the stern.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2662.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2660.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2658.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2661.jpg)
A few more pictures
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2664.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2663.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/24/IMG_2659.jpg)
Thats it for now I need to close up the port side next which will take a little while. I think its coming out ok so far and I'm pretty much learning as I'm going along - Mark :-)
-
Looking Good Mark!
Not tried that heating method! :-))
-
Very nice planking work, congratulations! Being so beautiful, I wouldn't paint the hull, I'd just clearcoat it with epoxy to have the planking visible.
-
Very nice work Mike . Planking a hull is a real challenge especially to get it as good. But as KNO3 says what are your thoughts about finishing ? OK fibreglass and epoxy over the whole of the interior to waterproof the hull but externally ?
-
Hi lads thanks for the comments :-)) I have got some ideas but Im not sure if I'm capable of doing what I would like to do. This is only the first layer of planks so I've used this layer to learn and practice as much as I can for the final layer.
I've got some nice pieces of boxwood, pear and mahogany and I would like to cut some planks from these and then use all three woods on the hull.
I'm thinking about using the light boxwood to mark out the water line and then use pear below this and mahogany above. Now this is what I would like to do but I've never done it before so I'm not sure how it will pan out or even if its possible for me personally to do. My thinking is that I'll give it a good go and if it doesn't look right I'll just paint the hull rather than using a clear coat to display the wood. I'm sure I'll need loads of help and advice but hey I know where to come for that :-)
Martin - this technique of bending laterally works really well and I would recommend it to anyone to give it a go. Here's a bit of a better explanation of how its done.
Here is how the plank naturally wants to lie when placed on the hull. You can see that it runs away from the planks above at the stem. It can be forced into place but if you do this it will not sit flat on the bulkheads and cause clinkering.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2670.jpg)
So what I do is mark the beginning of where I want the bend to start and also mark roughly where the middle of the bend will be.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2671.jpg)
I then use these marks to clamp the plank to a board and put a bend in it just roughly to what I think it should be. I really need to make myself a decent jig for this but I've been to lazy so far to make one %%
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2672.jpg)
Apply some heat - I use a heat gun simply because I've got one but I've also used my wife's hairdryer and that worked just as well
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2673.jpg)
After its cooled try it for a fit on the hull and repeat as necessary until you get the desired bend. Here's the plank after a couple of goes on the hull and you can see how now it naturally lays up to the planks above
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2674.jpg)
Then do the same towards the stern and you end up with a plank which looks something like this. The only other way to achieve this as far as I know would be to spile it which takes a lot longer and wastes a lot of timber too.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2675.jpg)
Then fit and glue it, and you get a nice plank like this one which follows the shape of the hull and is a tight fit on the plank above it. More importantly though is there are no built up stresses in the wood - its laying exactly the way it wants too.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/02/IMG_2676.jpg)
I have to stress that this is not my idea; I've simply robbed, stolen, pinched sorry borrowed someone else's expertise. Well why reinvent the wheel! Anyway I hope this helps someone.
Mark :-)
-
Tut tut Mark, I can see a spek of dust on your cutting mat, you are getting untidy mate!
Only kidding......this is some quality build, cannot wait to see how the next layer comes out. Fingers crossed you don't have to paint her.
-
I have been watching the planking operation with interest - it seems to be beautifully done and is a credit to you. In the thread you mentioned varnishing the final finish to show off the planking. An alternative would be to use epoxy resin as its much tougher than varnish and will give a very strong finish. If you want stronger you can cover it with finishing fibreglass tissue. The thinner the better as when wet with resin it goes completley transparent and shws every grain of the wood and after a couple of coats of resing any firbeglass gain is totally invisible. It makes for a very strong and completley waterproof hull.
Cheers and and keep up the good progress.
Geoff
-
Hi Stewart thanks mate and yes I’ve started getting a bit messy :embarrassed: however my wife will soon put me back on the straight and narrow if I keep it up {-)
Hi Geoff thanks for comments and suggestion. I used fibreglass cloth and resin on my last build to get a nice surface to paint on. I never thought about using it again but I think your suggestion would probably be a better way to do the finish. The nice thing about using epoxy is that once it’s dry I could use a fine scotch pad to get a Matt finish too :-))
-
Hi everyone
Just a quick update - At last - yes at last I have placed the final planks on the other side of the hull (thanks god for that i hear you all say) {-) So now I have a complete hull albeit not water tight
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/16/IMG_2689.jpg)
Its not quite symmetrical but I'm quite pleased seeing as I only marked out one side of the hull and basically winged the other side
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/16/IMG_2692.jpg)
So I've started on the forecastle which shouldn't take long but boy is it clinkered simply because of the very tight radiuses - but it'll be okay
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/16/IMG_2688.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/16/IMG_2691.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/12/16/IMG_2693.jpg)
So now its just a case of finishing the forecastle and getting down to some serious filling and sanding to get the shape that I want. Its not too far off but in places I've done a really shoddy job but this is my first attempt at this.
I'm off on my holidays tomorrow and will be in Egypt over Xmas and will be back on the 29th December to start again. So I'd like to wish everyone on MBM a very merry xmas and also like to think everyone for there help and support. I really couldn't do my builds without the help that I get here. Speak to you all later in December :)
Mark :-)
-
Looking very smart Mark I'm sure it will be perfection and nothing less even if it means doing bits again. I get frustrated with mistakes but get a doubling of satisfaction when I correct anything.
You need scale crewman in shot for a sense of scale and frivolity :-))
Pictures are excellent thank you
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/17/IMG_2495.jpg)
-
Ta Andy - I've got another layer of planks to go yet - honestly I can't wait {-) Mind you I'm planning on cutting these planks myself so I hope it works out. As always I'll post the pictures complete with disasters too!!!
-
Ta Andy - I've got another layer of planks to go yet - honestly I can't wait {-) Mind you I'm planning on cutting these planks myself so I hope it works out. As always I'll post the pictures complete with disasters too!!!
Sure you know that the second layer must be so much easier once you've contoured the first layer. So much pleasure ahead :-)
-
Sure you know that the second layer must be so much easier once you've contoured the first layer. So much pleasure ahead :-)
You'd like to think so but I've gone with the whole idea of using the planks as a finish rather than painting, so the second layer will not follow the lines of the first layer. I'm hoping to use different woods as if i were painting it - famous last words but I'm going to give it a go. I'll know if its going to work when I start marking out the second planking. I'm going to need quite a lot of help so be ready for questions and advice :) If all else fails I know I'm good with filler and an airbrush %%
-
I think you'll make easy work of it when you get going
-
Hi All
Well I've managed to get some more work done on the Anteo. Firstly I have finished the forecastle planking which funnily enough really caused me some problems. I thought that it would be really easy using such short lengths but it wasn't. The shape looks a bit strange and thats because once all of the planking is finished it has to be sculpted into shape so quite a lot if it will be removed.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2706.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2708.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2707.jpg)
So thats the first layer of planking done and I've a few observations about doing this type of model now. There really are not enough bulkheads to get the perfect shape with the first layer of planking. They are way too far apart and if this were a static model I would recommend using filler blocks between them to get a decent shape before planking. As its an RC model you can't really to this - so if I were doing it again I would add extra bulkheads and then remove them after the planking was complete.
So next I've started just giving the planks an initial knock back with some pretty course sand paper on a block. I've discovered lots of depressions which will require filling but I don't see this as a problem. Its just time consuming but I need to get the hull perfect before the second layer of planking. Here's what the Anteo looks like now after having the worst sanded down. I'm honestly quite pleased with the way its coming along. I can really see the shape of the hull now.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2709.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2710-1.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2711.jpg)
I've also been cutting some planks ready for the second layer. Even if I wasn't trying to leave a natural finish on this model there is no way I would use the suppled planking wood for the second layer. Its not very good quality lime wood and its so grainy which makes it very difficult to sand without it picking up on the surface {:-{ I'll use it for stirring epoxy instead {-)
These planks have been cut from boxwood which is a very close grained yellow wood and its lovely to work with - well cut on a table saw anyway! They are 1150mm long, 1.6mm thick and 13mm wide but I think the finished width will be 6mm. I'll know better once I've marked the final planking out.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2699.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2700.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2701.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/04/IMG_2702.jpg)
So this weekend I've got lots of filling and sanding to do which will please Lorraine no end. She doesn't mind the dust as I always clean up, its the smell of the filler she doesn't like %% I'll keep you posted
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
In Your post at 03:45:17 PM today, can you tell me about Your little sander with what appears to be a vacuum attachment?
Looks like a great, smaller sander; I have not seen that one before.
What is the make / model of it?
-
Hi - These sanding blocks are great :-)) They are 125mm x 75mm and as you say they connect into a vacuum cleaner to remove all of the dust as you go.
You can use either sanding sheets with holes in or Abranets. I'm using Abranets and they work very well indeed. You also need to buy the hose which connects it to your vacuum but its not expensive and its quite long too.
I've sanded one side of my hull and there's no dust to speak of in my room where I work. In fact even my clothes were still relatively clean whereas I would usually be covered in dust. Here's a link to the tool
https://www.axminster.co.uk/mirka-sanding-blocks-with-extraction-ax851921
-
Well I'm a pretty happy boat builder today. I've rough sanded all of the hull down now and the results were very good. I used a 300mm long block as much as possible to get nice flat sides and also get the shape nice an even on both sides.
I've also filled and completed one side ready for the next stage and it didn't need much filler at all really. I was very surprised as I thought that it would need loads. Here's a few pictures which to be honest look like most of the other pictures I posted before but I was too pleased not to put something on the forum. I apologise for my great mood but you've got to take it why you can as it may change when I fill the other side {-) Its so tempting just to give it a coat of epoxy and cloth and give it a coat of paint but I'll restrain myself :police: . Here's the pictures that look like all the others!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/06/IMG_2719.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/06/IMG_2723.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/06/IMG_2722.jpg)
Just the other side to fill and sand now then its into unchartered territory for me :-)) - Mark
-
Looks terrific Mark. When I completed the clinker hull of SL Wear I “varnished” the hull inside with epoxy resin. All the joints were good as it was glued construction but I was shocked at the amount of seepage actually through the wood grain (mahogany). Not withstanding after only one thin coat it has remained tight as a drum. The epoxy that leaked to the outside was easily rubbed down before Yacht varnish applied and doesn’t show through at all.
Jerry.
-
Thanks Jerry :-)) Like you I will be giving this hull several coats of epoxy inside and out!
Now I've been an extremely lucky bloke this week as I went a bit mad with the sanding of the hull. Both sides are now completely sanded to shape but I was unhappy with the hull at the end of the garboard strake at the stern. Its shape just wasn't right and I realised that once the second planking was on it would look even worse. If I didn't get it right at this stage it would be part of the boat forever. Sooooo I sanded it to within an inch of its life to get the right shape and the pictures below.........yes that is the bulkhead just poking through <:( How the planks stayed in place is beyond me but I'm glad they did, I guess we all need a bit of luck every now and again.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/13/IMG_2730.jpg)
Now here was my second problem with doing this. This area is going to get a lot of pressure applied when the second planking goes on so I needed to strengthen it from the inside before I went any further. Unfortunately the hull had two false decks installed holding the correct shape of the boat. I cannot remove these until the second planking is finished. So I took a deep breath and a very large hole saw and just went for it. I cut an access hole so that I could pour some epoxy resin down onto the keel to support, stabilise and strengthen the planks.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/13/IMG_2729.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/13/IMG_2728.jpg)
Once the holes were cut I put just a little epoxy into place..........only to discover that my resin had gone off and would not set >>:-( <*<
It took about 4 hours to carefully remove the useless epoxy using a scriber, forceps, cotton buds and lots of isopropyl alcohol. I then bought some new resin which I'm glad to say has set and has done the job. Its these things that really take time and just extend the build. Anyway now thats done the next jobs are to cut another rabbet in the keel and stem for the second planking, and then to mark out the planking itself. I'll keep you posted
Mark :-)
-
Hi All
Some more progress but also a bit of disappointment. I've discovered that I cannot plank the hull using 3 types of wood all based around the water line. I'll be using two types of wood now but I'll try and explain why with the pictures later. Firstly I've cut the rabbet in the keel and stem for the second planking and also marked out the frames. Here's a top tip - if you are double planking mark the frames as you go; I didn't and it takes ages to find them after and mark them out correctly
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2738.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2739.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2740.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2741.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2742.jpg)
I then marked out the waterline. This line is based around the deck being level so I cut two identical blocks and glued them to the false deck. Thinking back I should have done this at the beginning of the build as it would have made positioning the hull much easier.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2744.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2745.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2746.jpg)
Then I marked the waterline using my home made tool %% I did this in the kitchen which annoyed my wife so a bunch of flowers was in order!! I must say the plans with this kit are shockingly bad and as the plans are not to scale I used the top of the skeg as a datum for marking the waterline........in other words I had to make a best guess
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2747.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2748.jpg)
Next I needed to know how the bulwarks were shaped and how the brass cladding was fitted so that I could get a line marked for the change of type of wood. Again there are no clear instructions to its just a case of spending loads of time fitting and re-fitting until you think it looks about right. All of the wood above the brass is sculpted away once its fitted permanently and that then gives you the true shape of the bow.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2749.jpg)
Now I hope I explain this okay - the next few pictures are a bit vague but I'll do my best. After marking the line all the way along the hull below the brass, I next marked another line 13mm below this one. This is because just below the brass cladding sits an 8mm rubber bumper which allows 5mm of wood to show below that. The part that I was interested in was the gap between this lower line and the water line as this is where my planks will sit. Unfortunately this area at its narrowest point was 16mm and 55mm at its widest. This meant the planks in this area vary from 4mm at their narrowest to 11mm at their widest. This would just look bad so that put an end to that idea {:-{
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2750.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2751.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2752.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/26/IMG_2753.jpg)
I hope this makes sense to you- basically the planks would flair to much at the bow and stern and look awful even if I could do it?
So moving on - I'm now going to plank the bulwarks using light coloured boxwood. The hull below the bulwarks will now be all mahogany as this is the wood that I've got most of. Then I'll just paint a waterline on once I've given it a coat of epoxy. I'll save the lovely pear wood I've got for the superstructure :-))
So the next job is to mark out the planking runs so that I know how each plank will fit before making them. By the way the red pen I'm using is archival ink and doesn't bleed too much into the wood grain. You can get them on Amazon for £3
Mark :-)
-
That hull looks lovely - and perfectly symmetrical as far as I can see. Well done. :-)) :-)) :-))
Greg
-
Yes very splendid :-)) great pictures
BTW Mark adblue about 80p at the pump
-
Thanks Andy and Greg :-))
This morning I've marked out the planking runs which is a really enjoyable job :-) I've decided to use 6mm wide planks rather than the 7mm I used on the first layer. My reasoning for this is because the 7mm planks struggled with some of the twists and turns so narrower planks will hopefully alleviate some of these problems.
I started at the widest frame and marked it every 30mm so I'm marking bands of 5 planks. I then just loosely laid some vinyl lining tape across each line as I did before. Here's a picture of the rough layout.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/27/IMG_2754.jpg)
I then spent a few hours coming and going; looking at the hull and moving the tape into positions that I was happy with. The main purpose of this is to try and get even bands, so that the planks look good and reduce the need for stealers and drop planks. This was a lot easier this time working on a solid base rather then just the frames that I had before.
I'm happy with the results and I've marked each frame to record the positions. If its right I'll end up with a 9mm wide garboard plank which is just about spot on!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/27/IMG_2756.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/01/27/IMG_2755.jpg)
Next weekend I'll mark out the individual planks and then transfer everything to the other side
Thanks for looking - Mark :-))
BTW - George sorry I missed your call; I've left you a message mate and I'll call you next week :-))
-
Good progress. Planking a hull can get frustrating at times, but you decision to use narrower planks should make things easier. I would use even narrower ones, like 4-5 mm, as I did on my tug and it worked all right.
The easiest would be to use very narrow strips, like 2-3 mm, if you are ok with the look.
-
Hi KN03 - Thanks for the comments and your right it can be frustrating at times; but I've found that planning planking correctly saves many hours of time and waste when the wood actually goes on. I've gone for 6mm planks hopefully as a balance between looks and ease of fitting but time will tell I guess.
A bit of an update - as planned I've transferred the planking lines to the other side and lined it out with tape. I didn't do this on the first layer of planking which did cause me some issues so lesson learnt. Honestly you could spend days trying to get this right but at some point you just have to accept its not going to get any better or precise
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2759.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2760.jpg)
I then permanently marked these lines out and then lined out the bulwarks in the same way
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2761.jpg)
Which after all of that gave me a grid on which to build each band of planking
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2762.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2763.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2764.jpg)
I then divided each section into 5 - Each section carries 5 planks which at its widest point will be 6mm. Except for the bulwarks I'm making them slightly wider. I made a note of the width as I went along to save time later. So now I know the width of each plank along its length - well hopefully
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2765.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2766.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/03/IMG_2767.jpg)
So thats the marking out complete so next up will be milling the planks and the actual planking - here's hoping its all ok!
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Hi All
Ok I've started the second layer of planking and about time too!! First though I needed to make the planks so I started with some nice box wood and mahogany.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2769.jpg)
I milled these planks down into 1.5mm thick planks. Being 13mm wide this really tested my table saw bit it coped...sort of. I got lots of burning on the mahogany but it should sand out ok.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2771.jpg)
I then took the light coloured box wood and milled it to the 7mm wide planks that I needed
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2773.jpg)
Now starting the planking I though that it would be best to start with possibly the hardest part. Getting around the stern by laterally bending the planks. I made a jig and soaked the wood over night and then just went for it with a hot air gun. I would say that for every bend that went as it should I had 3 attempts that split along the grain. Extremely time consuming but it went ok in the end. Well as good as I could get it anyway
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2774.jpg)
After making the plank it was time for gluing and clamping
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2775.jpg)
Then I did the same with the second plank and cut the ends to length. The result was really nice with good tight joints between them
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2776.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/02/17/IMG_2777.jpg)
I wasn't sure whether I could actually do this so I'm pleased with the results. Now I need to replicate this on the other side.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Amazing quality
You really have made a rod for your own back O0
Must be really satisfying and I hope it all goes to plan :-))
Great pictures
-
Your bent planks look great. I didn't know you could bend them so much flat.
-
Yes Mark.......this was probably 1/2 of the more difficult planks to bend & install :-))
I remember you conducted your own trials of adhesives for wooden planking, however wonder if a small number of bronze planking nails would not assist here for the long term?
The other question is the radial cutting marking on the face of the planks..............it is so realistic & would be a pity to hide it by sanding
Watching on as you progress
Derek
-
Your bent planks look great. I didn't know you could bend them so much flat.
I had no idea either until I tried it. If it hadn’t worked plan B was to use short prices around the stern so I’m glad it did work.
Thanks for the comments everyone - Derek I take you point about using nails. The trouble with nailing is that they have to be removed as otherwise they cause issues when sanding. They also leave small holes which are difficult to disguise. The plan is to use finishing epoxy over the planks to obtain a durable finish which will also really help bonding the planks together
Mark
-
Thanks for the comments everyone - Derek I take you point about using nails. The trouble with nailing is that they have to be removed as otherwise they cause issues when sanding. They also leave small holes which are difficult to disguise. The plan is to use finishing epoxy over the planks to obtain a durable finish which will also really help bonding the planks together
Mark
use a nail punch to push the heads below the surface of the planks, sanding will not be a problem. When finishing use a mix of epoxy and wood dust to fill the holes to represent the wood plugs used to cover the fixings in full size. This makes it a feature of the hull.
Jim
-
Thanks to all for the comments and advice its much appreciated :-))
Ok I've moved on a bit - Firstly I finished the other side which took quite a bit lot longer than the first side. Its because I was trying to mirror image it. The results were ok though
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2778.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2779.jpg)
Then I fitted the stern bulwark which I had previously made sure that it was the correct shape. And guess what it didn't fit {-) I have no idea how this happened so I had to fettle it again before gluing in position. It really fought me all the way and even now the deck will be 3mm longer than it should - Oh well %%
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2780.jpg)
Now here's where I decided to deviate from the plans again. The plans show that the stern should be planked with short vertical pieces of wood as the picture below shows.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2792.jpg)
Now because this joint will be visible when the boat is finished I though that the transition would look awful. So I decided to wrap the stern at least for one plank to try and get a better finished look. This proved to be much harder than I originally thought and i wouldn't advise anyone to try this. You'll end up with no hair {-) Anyway after loads of soaking, heat and clamps
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2782.jpg)
I ended up with two plank layers but to go any further would have sent me over the edge - I just hope its all worth it in the end. Here's the roughed out pictures - it needs much more shaping and a little sawdust filler.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2784.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2783.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2785.jpg)
I then changed to vertical planks as these will not be seen as they will be clad in brass. Sorry I forgot to take any pictures in their rough state but here they are after a quick sand to rough the shape
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2786.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2787.jpg)
And this is what they look like wet, so hopefully this is a representation of what they will look like after a coat of epoxy
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2788.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2789.jpg)
Finally I cut and glued in the vertical planks on the port side this morning so they are drying as I type.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2790.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/03/IMG_2791.jpg)
And that's it for now. I hope your enjoying this build as much as I am and that I'm not going to in-depth. Next jobs will be to shape the rest of the stern and then plank the bulwarks and the forecastle which I'm hoping will be a fairly easy job.
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Enjoying very much. :-)
-
Hi All
Well I've managed to get some more done on the Anteo. Having planked the stern I started on the main planks up to the gunwales and on the forecastle. Its been nice working with home cut planks and its been a case of pretty much the same. Cut planks and then bend them so suit the shape of the hull
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2815.jpg)
And here's a quick tip that I was given that makes gluing a bit easier. Place a line of PVA on the plank
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2816.jpg)
Then get a bolt and drag it through the glue for the full length of the plank. It removes all of the excess glue and leaves a uniform coat that doesn't blow out everywhere
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2817.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2818.jpg)
Placing the four planks up the the gunwales I had to make one of the planks wider just like I had too on the first layer. I did this in the same way by making a half stealer in a pre-curved plank
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2810.jpg)
Which was then glued and clamped into place and the results were ok - I do tend to over clamp but thats just me
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2811.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2812.jpg)
The finished planks in their raw state which is just glued wood without any sanding
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2813.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2814.jpg)
I'll pop some more progress up a bit later on this evening - Mark :-)
-
Onto the forecastle - I needed 12 identical tapered planks so rather than cut and plane by hand I cheated. First I cut the blanks on the table saw using the guide on the sled to make sure they were all the same length
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2837.jpg)
I then set up a taper gauge to the required angle and cut the tapers
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2839.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2840.jpg)
And then back onto the sled to cut them to length to get identical planks. It only took about 20 minutes to get this done.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2841.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2842.jpg)
I didn't take any pictures of bending or fitting the planks as there's loads of pictures like that - so here's what they all look like after gluing them on
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2843.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2844.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2845.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2846.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/07/IMG_2847.jpg)
So thats the boxwood planking finished - well it will be after its been sanded down. Its a shame that 80% of it will be hidden by brass cladding but I think its coming on ok.
So now I need to cut the mahogany planks to size and start planking down towards the keel. I think I'll plank the entire hull before sanding but I'll see how it goes
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
Oh on a side note - I've actually learnt how to sharpen my chisels correctly with a small micro bevel on the tip. They literally fall through the wood - Oh and skin - I've never had so many little cuts in my hands since doing them. So now I need to learn how to handle them properly {-)
-
Beautiful work! Where did you get that taper gauge from? Looks like a very useful tool.
-
Thanks KN03 :-)) I am now working my way through the second layer of mahogany planks. I've not posted anything as its slow going and all of the pictures will look similar so I'll wait until I get a lot done before I post again.
The taper gauge is an accessory that you can buy for the small table saw. You can purchase them at most table saw suppliers but if you look on youtube there are a few videos on how to easily make them.
-
What model table saw do you use?
-
Its a Jim Bynes table saw it really is a fantastic bit of kit. Here's a link
http://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/tablesaw5.html
-
Thank you!
-
Hi All
A bit of an update as I've been busy getting on with the mahogany planking. I've been using the magnets as clamps which are doing a great job as well as the screw clamps I made last year.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2852.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2853.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2854.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2855.jpg)
First section finished
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2856.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2857.jpg)
A few pre-bent and shaped planks waiting to go on
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2860.jpg)
Second section finished
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2861.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2862.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2863.jpg)
Which was then repeated on the other side
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2889.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2890.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2891.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/06/IMG_2892.jpg)
So far so good - its no mirror image not by any stretch of the imagination but its looking ok. I've made quite a few mistakes but managed to pull it straight as I've gone on. I'm learning on the job but thats ok with me.
The next stage is to start planking at the keel and start working downwards. I need to cut some more planks on the table saw first but I'll keep you updated as I go along
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Looks great so far.
-
Yes, very tidy indeed Mark :-))
Are you using your taper attachment for the table saw to achieve the 5.0 > 4.75 and 4.5 > 3.5 mm plank width reductions then of hand sanding or using a hand plane to achieve the total uniform taper in each plank?
Have you completed a hull weight check recently?
Derek
-
Hi both thanks for the comments :-))
Derek I use a plane to cut the tapers by simply transferring the measurements from the hull to the plank. It’s really simple and I’m getting quicker at it too. The tapers are quite long and beyond what the table saw can do. It would also take ages to set up. It’s great for short repetitive jobs but the hand plane is better for long planks.
I haven’t weighed the hull but it’s not really getting that much heavier with the second planking. It is getting much stronger though.
-
I've been getting on making the garboard planks which I've been worrying about for a while. The reason being I had to guess and modify the first layer of planking to try and get the the second layer correct. In all of this time was unsure of whether it would actually work out ok.
Here's my problem - the diagram shows that the planks do not sit flush around the skeg. They do in fact sit proud by what I guess is the thickness of the plank. The written instructions give no idea what so ever on the correct placing so for me its a total guess. The picture below show what I mean. I have circled the planks which seem to be proud which then become flush as they move up towards the rudder tube. This causes a real problem from the transition from the keel to the skeg which is why I rebated the fist layer of planking
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/11/IMG_E2900.jpg)
The garboard plank is a difficult plank to make as it needs to twist through 90 degrees and allow all of the following planks to lay parallel to the keel. So first off I made some patterns for the bow and stern as i didn't want to waste too much mahogany with errors
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/11/IMG_2898.jpg)
I then transferred these patterns onto the mahogany planks that I had cut extra wide to try and make the job a little easier which were then planed and sanded to shape
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/11/IMG_2895.jpg)
Now I've never had to bend mahogany before so I gave it a good long soak (8 hours) in water and then clamped it into place in the rabbet. This wood is beautiful to use and extremely pliable when wet - it just needs to dry overnight in situ so that I can glue it in the morning
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/11/IMG_2897.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/11/IMG_2896.jpg)
And here's the transition out of the keel to make the plank stand proud. I'm so pleased the way its turned out and with a little sanding it should look a bit better too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/05/11/IMG_2899.jpg)
Its one of those things that I kind of planned months ago, unsure as to whether it would work but it seems to be ok. The other side is soaking in the bath as I type so the both of them should be glued on and good to go by tomorrow evening. This has been a really good building day for me and I'm really chuffed with the results so far
Cheers - Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark, good job. My view is that on a 1:1 scale the garboard plank is the only one on the side to be parallel throughout its length with the exception of the ends. Ideally the second layer would also have a rebate into the Skegness/keel but as this is a model and I assume you will put a fine glass mat and epoxy overall it really doesn’t matter in this case if you just sand the ends flush.
Jerry.
-
Hi ya Jerry - you are right this is probably the only parallel plank. On a full size ship its also the widest and thickest plank apparently which is why I made it wider (well that my excuse anyway). I have cut a rebate on the keel so they are sitting very nicely in it except for where they sit proud on the skeg. It took some thinking about as I had to but a step into the plank to get it to look right. I just want to get it as close to the original as possible so I'm going to leave them proud as thats why I've gone to all of this trouble. I don't think its been a hard job as such just time consuming to get them to sit right as they will have a big impact on how the following planks lay. It will get a good coat of epoxy and cloth so that'll make it water tight as my joints leave something to be desired.
I've been watching Angelicas Adventures so be sure to let me know when you get to the black country :-)) The beers on me (well the first one anyway) Have a safe trip :-)
-
Currently we “on holibobs” on brother in laws wide beam on Leeds& Liverpool Canal for ten days cruise. Then back to our boat and heading down to the Midlands canals. We’ll probably have 2 or 3 chances to meet up.
Jerry.
-
HELP!!!
Hi Everyone I really need some help as things are not going too well at the moment. I've been fitting the planks around the keel and skeg and as careful as I've been, I have damaged finish on the plywood on the keel >>:-(
Now as I was planning on having a clear coat finish this is not a good thing as the light coloured wood on the next layer down really stands out. I've made things worse in my attempt to repair this problem by trying to glue in saw dust using carpenters glue. This failed and actually made the situation worse as now it needs a bit of filler. I did think about using CA for this process but CA and clear coats don't go well together at all.
So can you help? I think I'm resigned to painting the skeg and keel and then clear coating the rest of the hull. I'm ok with this but I really would like some opinions before I do anything else. I'm reluctant to try and repair the ply any further due to the damage that i have already done.
So what do you think?? And what would be a good colour if you think painting is the way forward. Pics below - cheers Mark
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/06/01/IMG_2923.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/06/01/IMG_2924.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/06/01/IMG_2925.jpg)
-
Just a question first Mark, how did you originally intend to seal and coat the plywood keel timber [from bow to stern] in the first place?
Being the lowermost wooden section, it is most prone to mechanical damage......[especially around the bow area]
I am sure it has been mentioned and covered, but what type a adhesive glue are you using for this 2nd planking layer?
Prosperity polyester wood fillers are available in many differing tone/hue's to match the original timber......many are actually waterproof
May be a thought to gently scrape & remove that :o sawdust & glue spread
Derek
-
Hi Derek - The whole hull is going to be covered in epoxy and cloth and polished to a matt clear finish so its going to show every little defect thats for sure.
The planks are all glued on using aliphatic resin so they are going no where it really is very strong stuff.
Its a shame that this has happened in this particular place as your eye is automatically drawn to this area so it needs to be right. Would you believe that the pictures show the damage to the plywood with the sawdust and glue experiment already removed.
I did think about using a wood filler but the chances of me getting an exact match are pretty much zero which is why its such a concern for me.
I'm thinking about doing this after the planking is finished
1. Give the hull an initial coating of finishing resin to seal the wood
2. Air brush as near a colour that I can get over the keel and skeg using Valeo acrylic paint
3. Resin and cloth over the paint to seal it and carry on as normal
I think that this may work but I'm a bit unsure so all thoughts on this are extremely welcome
The keel and skeg are going to have a strip of 1/16 thick brass running the full length to give it some extra protection
-
Methinks you are over thinking worst case scenario Mark. With the brass strip and a deft touch up with a coat of paint the only person that would know there was a slight error would be you.
You are doing a fantastic job on this, so don't beat yourself up over it.
-
Methinks you are over thinking worst case scenario Mark. With the brass strip and a deft touch up with a coat of paint the only person that would know there was a slight error would be you.
You are doing a fantastic job on this, so don't beat yourself up over it.
Hi mate - Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it - funnily enough your not the only person who's said thats its not that bad. I've decided to definitely paint the keel as its only a thin strip and like you say once the brass is on you'll only see the sides of it anyway. I also think the skeg may look better painted as it will hide the laminations of the ply in the holes and on the far edge too. My mistake was not making the keel out of solid wood when I had the chance. Oh well you live and learn %%
So the issue is what colour to do it? Should I go for a mahogany dark brown so that is blends in.....or go for a lighter hay/brown to try and match the lighter boxwood up top? Although I can build things I'm not very creative when it comes to choosing colours and I want to try and get this right when the time comes.
I think I'll use a simple water based acrylic and then epoxy over the top of the colour. I guess I could do this with the water line too. Any input on the colour would be really helpful :-))
-
It really is up to your preference. I would paint all the wood below the waterline and clearcoat above the waterline. Black or dark red are fine, or anything you like.
-
Hi All
I've not posted on this build in a while but the planking is going ok albeit very slowly but I'm getting there. To have a bit of a break from it I decided to make a rudder out of the same mahogany, as the supplied plywood one just would not look right. This boat has a HUGE rudder {-)
So first off I cut up some pieces of mahogany well over size and thickness and used loads of glue to join them together
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/07/07/IMG_2942.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/07/07/IMG_2943.jpg)
Once dry I sanded them down and squared it off and ended up with what looks like the top of a dining table fit for a dolls house!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/07/07/IMG_2950.jpg)
Then using the original rudder I marked out its shape and then simply cut and sanded it until I was happy with the results
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/07/07/IMG_2951.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/07/07/IMG_2952.jpg)
I think that this wood I'm using must be quite old as its as hard as stone and difficult to sand down. The rudder post is 4mm diameter so to get it in the middle and make the sanding of the groove in the rudder easier I used a table saw to rough out the shape.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/07/07/IMG_2954.jpg)
I'm really pleased with the results as I've never done this sort of thing before. I'll update the hull progress soon once I've got something worthwhile to post
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Looks very nice.
-
Wow, as not seen more numbers here I presume you are still building it.
Looks great but a lot of work to be honest.
Not that I don't like those kind of tugs but this takes to much time for me and beside I'm not finished with my built yet.
Following this Mark and wish you the patient to do it,
Peter
-
Hi Peter yes you certainly need a lot of patience on a boat like this. I’m actually making some good progress and I’ll update this build in a couple of weeks :-))
-
Hi All
Sorry about the lack of updates, but its coming along now so at last I can bring you up to date of where I'm at.
So when I left this I had just glued a rudder together that needed finishing. I tapered the rudder using a plane and just finished it off with sandpaper. I like using a plane now as I make less dust in the house and its much quicker too. I also mounted it onto the spindle using stainless steel screws.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2959.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2958.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2960.jpg)
It just needs coating with cloth and epoxy and its finished - its one BIG rudder though %%
Now rather than go through a boring plank by plank explanation here's some pictures of each section being completed. To say it was hard to plank around the prop tube would be an understatement for me. It literally took days of making templates to get to right. I made it more difficult for myself as I had no spare mahogany should I get it wrong so I'd rather throw away cardboard than wood. Its not perfect but its the best I can do at the moment.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2970.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2971.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2969.jpg)
Planking further down around the skeg - I did manage to get the transition from the planks being proud to being flush quite well. I really did have quite a lot of luck at this stage - but hey I'll take it!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2993.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2994.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2992.jpg)
You can never have enough different types of clamps
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_3005.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_2995.jpg)
Moving down to the next section
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_3011.jpg)
This was a real moment for me when the two sides of planking met - and quite symmetrically too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_3013.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_3014.jpg)
And finally for today I was struggling to get a protective brass strip for the keel that was long enough in one piece. I found this company
http://www.metalsmith.co.uk/metals-materials.htm#Brass
Its run by a really nice guy called Barry and I would recommend him to anyone wanting metal. He supplied this 4ft long x 1/4 wide x 1/16 think piece of brass for £4.60 - yep you read that right £4.60.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/22/IMG_3015.jpg)
I'll get some more up tomorrow :-))
And as always thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
That's a really professional looking job you're doing there Mark - shouldn't be much of a problem with the need for stealers either - great job so far :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Thanks Ray - You are absolutely right, I only used one stealer straight off of the garboard plank and one in the bulwarks. I think I could have lost the one in the bulwarks by making a wide plank but would have probably caused me a few problems down the line. I don't think that these photos capture what a labour of love this turned into for me - but I enjoyed it so much :-)
-
Ok so next update!
I've carried on with the planking and have got to the point where there is only one band left to do. Unfortunately I lost the herring bone pattern at the stern as when I was trimming one plank I accidentally cut the one above it >>:-( Oh well you live and learn I guess and it doesn't look too bad.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3038.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3039.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3041.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3042.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3043.jpg)
Sorry its not the most exciting update and looks just like all of the others but this is the process that I've followed {-)
Mark :-)
-
Making the stand - well I needed a break from the hull O0
On my last build I made no real effort to make a decent stand so I decided to try a bit harder this time. I found an old wooden Ikea drawer that we no longer use and this is what its made from.
First I cut the profiles of the frames of where I wanted the stand to sit on the hull
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3017.jpg)
And then cut the rough shape of how I wanted them to look
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3018.jpg)
Next I sanded them to the finished shape but thought that the side arms were probably a bit thin to hold whats going to be quite a heavy boat. I had some 5mm aluminium rod knocking around so I used this to give them some extra support and strength. I then notched out the frames and the centre piece to make a simple lap joint for getting a good strong glued joint.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3021.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3022.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3023.jpg)
Finally I gave it two good coats of Rustoleum matt spray varnish which I must say seems like a really good product. It also got a layer of 3mm thick felt and some feet on the bottom too.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3031.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3033.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3034.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/24/IMG_3032.jpg)
Finally here's the finished stand doing its job
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3036.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3037.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/23/IMG_3035.jpg)
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Good morning Mark
As is the norm things are looking very good ,not doing any boat work at the moment ,still have my head in books for the full ham licence ,at 71 trying to do the maths is very hard ,never could understand why you had to add ,times divide and multiply the alphabet .On a plus I caught my first salmon Tuesday past .
David
-
The stand you've made is very much in keeping with the hull itself Mark, beautiful yet functional. I like it :-))
Taking a break from the tedium of planking has paid dividends in your case O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi David great to hear from you and I'm glad your persevering with your HAM. You said it was going to be difficult but I'm sure you'll do it and congrats on the Salmon too :-))
Hi Ray - Thanks for the comments and your right I really needed a break. Its amazing what you can build out of an old drawer. I'll do my best to get some more up tomorrow.
-
Looks great Mark like the brass strip as it will also strengthen the skeg and rudder area . :-))
-
Looks great Mark like the brass strip as it will also strengthen the skeg and rudder area . :-))
Yea I was given the idea by Oohyah/2 as he told me how the skeg broke on his Cervia tug and how he rebuilt it using brass strip. Hopefully it will also stop some of the scrapes on the keel too.
-
So its finally done :-))
I really have learnt the lesson of measure twice and cut once doing this job. The last planks are definitely the hardest to do
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3044.jpg)
One side completely finished
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3047.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3045.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3048.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3049.jpg)
And then the other side
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3057.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3059.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3058.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3060.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3062.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3061.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3063.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3066.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3064.jpg)
So thats it! the hull is now fully planked :-)) It looks a bit rough to say the least as its not yet been sanded smooth and into shape. I've got a few jobs to do on the hull before I start sanding but then I can get it finished.
Thanks for hanging on in there on this - Mark :-)
-
I've managed to get some more done today. First up was drilling the hole for the rudder post through the planking.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3067.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3068.jpg)
Which I did 1/16 to far away from the skeg AAAAAAHHHHHHHH <*<
So I had to cut and modify the rudder pivot using a bit of brass that I had knocking around. It didn't take long and I soldered it all together so the mistake was rectified.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3077.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3078.jpg)
Which then allowed me to trial fit the rudder to make sure that all was ok. This rudder is massive!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3071.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3070.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3072.jpg)
Lastly I fitted the brass strip that runs the whole length of the keel. When I refit this I'll epoxy and clamp it into place to make it really secure.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3073.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3074.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3075.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/25/IMG_3076.jpg)
So next up I can strip the brass back off and get the hull sanded to see what it really is going to look like. I'm looking forward to this bit!
Cheers Mark :-)
-
I don't think you're the first one to make a mistake while drilling the hull for the rudder Mark and you won't be the last one either. That was a good recovery though :-)) .
Regards,
Ray.
-
Thanks Ray I managed to pull that one off ok. I had to pre-drill the hole many months ago from above and thought that it was right. Its so easy just to be the tiniest bit out. The sanding is going well and the whole thing looks so different - in fact it looks really nice
-
Thanks Mark, looking forward to seeing the photos.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Mark, my hood is in the air, respect you did a good job!
Can be proud on your self.
Now the difficult part though to get all machinery in place and working!
May the Lord give you the strength and a clear brain to have it all done!
Good luck young man with the "second" fase.
looking forward to the rest of it.
Mine is not going that fast due to several reasons, mainly the weather plays a big roll in it and slows me down.
Anyway, did some works to it though.
Like you, never give up and if I'm fed-up with my study and need a break I do some works to it, relaxed me in a sense.
Talk to you later.
Peter
-
Hi Peter believe it or not I think I'm 2 1/2 years into this build as I can only do it part time. Luckily all of my steam plant and servos etc (machinery) has already been done and tested. I did see your build and its looking great :-))
-
Hi All
The sanding is done %% That Honduras mahogany was like sanding steel and the dust is so fine I'm glad I used some extraction in the house. Here's the pictures
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3080.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3081.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3083.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3082.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3084.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3086.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3085.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3087.jpg)
I have to say I'm pretty chuffed the way this has turned out. I think there are 140-ish individually tapered planks that had to be made but it was worth it. I think it safe to say that I'm getting good at this planking malarky now due to all of the practice I've had {-)
Here's a few pictures of its first coat of finishing resin. I've used Bucks Composites finishing resin and I'm glad that I did. Its mixed by a weight ratio of 100g of resin to 48g of hardener. It was dead easy to do and its really runny which makes putting it on nice and easy. I found using Z-poxy that I needed to thin it a bit but not this stuff.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3088.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3090.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3089.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/10/27/IMG_3091.jpg)
So the next jobs are
1. Airbrush the skeg and the keel to hide all of the damage that I did doing the planking
2. Airbrush on the waterline
3. Two more coats of finishing resin using 49g cloth
4. Start fitting the brass plating around the bulwarks - there's a few hundred brass nails that need to be put in!
5. Trim the forecastle down to the brass plating
So plenty to be getting on with
Cheers - Mark :-)
-
:-)) That looks terrific! You've made a cracking job with the woodwork, there.
Andy
-
She looked nice before the resin went on but, oh boy, what a transformation - absolutely gorgeous - great work Mark :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Mark,
What a super job, all worth the effort.
George.
-
Please tell me you’re not going to paint it.
Jerry.
-
Andy, Ray and George - Thanks for the comments :-)) I got there in the end even if it took forever. Still loads to do but I feel that I've broken the back of it now. Watch this space!
Please tell me you’re not going to paint it. Jerry.
Hi Jerry - no mate its staying clear coated. The only things that will be painted will be the skeg and the keel. I did quite a lot of damage when planking the hull and it just doesn't look right how it is. So I've mixed a colour which is similar to how it is now. It should tidy the plywood up quite nicely and I'll also be painting a water line and thats it. Once the brass is on it will get a matt clear coat to take off the shine off.
Then at last I can get the motor back in and have a play :-)
-
Looks fantastic Mark now the real fun begins so take your time doing a great job btw still working on the Joffre will post soon
Cheers
John
-
I love the way mahogany in the raw turns to an exquisite red when varnished. The epoxy coat is necessary first because thin mahogany is very porous due to the short irregular grain. I coated the inside of Wear on the inside and the epoxy went through to the outside in many places and I don’t just mean the joints. On completion I sanded it off and put several coats of yacht varnish outside and deck and of course you’ve seen the result after seven years. Every year I remove everything from inside, spray with detergent, give it a good scrub with a stiff paint brush and hose it out. Comes out like new.
Jerry.
-
Hi John thanks very much and I’m looking forward to an update on your build too. It’s amazing how long these builds can take
Hi Jerry I can certainly vouch for the solid build of your boat. Your right about the mahogany most of the resin just got absorbed as I rollered it on.
I’m back to work now after my week off and it was a shock to the system when my alarm went off at 0200!
-
Hi Mark T , just tuned into your build,what an eye opener brilliant , well done :-)) .
-
Thanks Brian that’s very nice of you to say :-) It’s been slow going due to time constraints as I work away from home all week. I’m getting there slowly.
-
As George has said, it is a really nice job
-
When I read that the Hull was not to be painted I was very disappointed. I like things to look real......I then went and looked at the latest photos of the hull.......wow.....have I changed my mind. What a thing of beauty you are creating. Superb.
-
Thanks Phil and Footski :-))
Time to tidy up the damage to the keel and skeg. Its a shame that I didn't decide to go with the bare planking at the beginning of this build as I would have swapped the plywood keel for something like pear wood. Oh well you live and learn.
So I took some 400 grit carbide paper to the hull to knock it back ready for the next coat of epoxy :o
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3104.jpg)
Then I did my usual mega masking up job.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3105.jpg)
Then the bit I like doing most - laying on the paint O0 I have used Vallejo acrylic paint which I must say is a great product to use.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3107.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3108.jpg)
I'm pleased with the results and its hidden all of the marks that I managed to put into it. Its also hidden the ply lines very well too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3109.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3110.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3111.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/02/IMG_3112.jpg)
Next job later on today will be marking out and painting the waterline. I've got some aged white paint for this so that it doesn't look to clean and bright. I'll get some more pictures up tomorrow with a bit of luck
Thanks for looking - Mark
-
I'd spend many a happy hour just staring at that! :-)) Superb work.
Andy
-
Congratulations, the planked hull looks superb!
-
Thanks Andy and KNO3 :-))
Well I've made a school boy error - I started lining off the water line - oh and promptly ran out of lining tape >>:-(
What a fool I am as I usually have spares of this sort of thing. Oh well I've ordered some more and I'll carry on next weekend. Now where's that cold beer %%
-
Hi All
Ok so the lining tape turned up this week so I've done some more work on the hull.
Firstly I made a simple tool for marking out the water line and then lined it out with tape
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3113.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3115.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3114.jpg)
Then I masked it all up and put on some aged white so that it doesn't look to stark
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3143.jpg)
I think its turned out quite nice
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3144.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3145.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3146.jpg)
I've also been ageing the brass using vinegar and salt as I don't want it to look new and shiny. This has turned out ok too I think but it has turned the solder black
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3148.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/09/IMG_3147.jpg)
So now I need to let this paint fully cure so I'm not doing anything now until next weekend. Then I'm going to start covering the hull with epoxy and cloth which is not everyone's favourite job.
Cheers - Mark
-
Looking good Mark. It must have taken a long time to do all that masking up :o
Regards,
Ray.
-
When I was doing it Ray I remembered the last water line that I sprayed on my Alpine. I thought then it was a lot of effort for one white line and it was again this time too O0 {-)
-
Just a quick update
I've started the job that no one likes {-) Glass cloth and resin!
The first side went ok but it did take a bit of time. Its a tricky shape to do in one hit but I could think of any other way of doing it.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/17/IMG_3153.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/17/IMG_3155.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/17/IMG_3154.jpg)
And one side of the rudder is done too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/17/IMG_3156.jpg)
So far so good and next weekend I'll do the other side - Mark :-)
-
Mark, if the other side goes as well as this one she's going to be a real beauty.
Great workmanship :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Thanks Ray the new resin that I’m using made things easier as it has a pot life of 45 minutes and is very thin too. It does take 48 hours to fully cure though but it dries with no stickiness at all
-
It's strange but I can't see any pictures in this thread although I'm logged in.
-
That’s strange because I can see them. Try logging out and then back in again that might work
-
All piccies visible here, I'm happy to say. And what a splendid job you have made of that hull Mark, a real display piece. Perhaps I missed it, but what is the resin that impresses you so much?
Edit - just found it on the previous page - Bucks Composites finishing resin.
Greg
-
Hi Greg it’s a company called Bucks Composites. I have never used their products before and have found their finishing resin to be very good so far
-
I've done a bit more on the tug so here's some pictures
Firstly I removed all of the excess cloth from one side. I've got a couple of air bumps and I'll have to touch up the keel a bit but nothing that can't be done
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/24/IMG_3161.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/24/IMG_3162.jpg)
Then I cut the cloth for the other side and the rudder
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/24/IMG_3163.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/24/IMG_3164.jpg)
And then applied the resin which again went ok
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/24/IMG_3166.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/24/IMG_3165.jpg)
So I've got to be patient now and let this side dry for 48 hours. Then I'll get down to sanding out and imperfections and hopefully get the final coat of resin on - Cheers Mark :-)
-
:o :o :o :o :-))
-
:o :o :o :o :-))
Cheers Boss :-))
-
Keep up the good work!
-
Keep up the good work!
Thanks mate :-)
I've been a bit delayed on the build because after I had tidied up the excess cloth I really wasn't entirely happy with the result. The way that I had applied it removed too many sharp edges and hid too much of the detail that I had gone to a lot of effort to include.
So last weekend I spent a lot of time sanding the detail back into the hull which took ages and it also involved a full respray of the keel. Anyway its done now so upwards and onwards. After sanding it all flat I installed the rudder post with some 5 minute epoxy
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3173.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3174.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3172.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3175.jpg)
Next I fitted the rudder to the spindle with epoxy and screws and gave it a final coat of finishing resin
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3176.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3177.jpg)
And then gave the hull what I hope is the final coat of finishing resin too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3178.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3180.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3181.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/08/IMG_3179.jpg)
So its looking nice now but I need to give it a week to dry properly. I'll know then if it needs another coat or not once I've knocked it back a bit with a scotch bright pad. The final finish will be a matt coat varnish so all of the shine will be gone but theres loads to do before then.
Mark :-)
-
Good recovery Mark - looks superb and I'm sure the finishing coat will be just as good - lovely job :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi All
Well I'm glad to say that after knocking the resin back the finish is lovely :-) Its going to look even better once its had a couple of coats of matt varnish but there are a few things to do before that happens. Somehow I've messed my photos up a bit in the order that I took them so bear with me if things look a bit topsy turvy %%
I refitted the brass strip in the keel using the screws and 5 minute epoxy and also permanently fitted the rudder. I'm my own worst critic but I think the results are just so nice and I'm glad that I took my time. I hope you think the same and like the patina on the brass.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3197.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3198.jpg)
And then just utter disaster - I dropped it. Yep you read that right I dropped the hull straight onto the stern. At first i thought that I had got away with it but unfortunately I didn't. The stern and the stern bulwarks were cracked {:-{ So the only thing I could think of was to sand it back and reapply some finishing resin which I pushed into the cracks after pulling them slightly wider apart.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3196.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3195.jpg)
Luckily for me when the boat is finished none of this will be visible as its hidden underneath brass plating and the rubber bumper. I'll reinforce from the inside at a later date. That will teach me to be clumsy.
So onto the next job - the brass plating that runs around the full bulwarks. There are 32 plates that need to be fitted and 100's of 0.5mm nails that hold them. I love the instructions with this kit - they simply say fit the brass plates and thats it {-) No measurements or nothing! So I spent a while just trying different positions until the looked about right.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3189.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3192.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3191.jpg)
And then I drew around the plates so that I know each ones position ready for gluing in place
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3193.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3194.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3202.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3201.jpg)
I think I'm going to use 15 minute epoxy to attach these plates as I think this will give me enough time to put them in the right place and get cleaned up too. The only thing is they are way to shiny so I need to age them a bit. I cleaned all of the plates with cellulose thinners just in case they had some sort of coating on them. Next I put them in a sealed container with some vinegar and salt and I'll see what they look like next weekend. Hopefully the shine will be gone.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/15/IMG_3200.jpg)
Thats it for now - cheer Mark :-)
-
Sorry to hear about the hull getting damaged. It doesn't look that bad though. It should look very nice with all that brass covering it.
-
Sorry to hear about the hull getting damaged. It doesn't look that bad though. It should look very nice with all that brass covering it.
Yea its just one of those things I guess. You can either just accept that its happened and move on or throw your teddies out of the pram {-) It was dropped from quite a height so I have realised just how strong it is as my other boat would have probably snapped in half. Onwards and upwards :-))
-
Well I popped home from work tonight as the truck is in for a service and thought, hows my brass coming along.
Well instead of it being shiny brass its now shiny silver. Its not brass at all its brass plated >>:-( Honestly these kits aren't cheap and it just plated!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/17/IMG_3204.jpg)
Oh well not to worry {-) The trouble is a cannot see what the base metal actually is. I can see some copper coming through but that may be part of the plating process. Its a non ferrous metal but seems too springy to be aluminium. I think that it may be copper plate or possibly stainless. Hopefully I'll find out as I now dropped it into a very mild acidic bath to clean it right back. I'm really hoping its copper I'll let you know :-)
-
So, chipping hammer (miniature), wire brush(ditto), red lead and the rest of the gummins, just like the real thing eh!
Bummer.
Jerry.
-
So, chipping hammer (miniature), wire brush(ditto), red lead and the rest of the gummins, just like the real thing eh!
Bummer.
Jerry.
Pretty much Jerry {-)
-
Mark.......there isn't a lot of metals that would make sense for electroplating
1. ferrous......you have discounted as non magnetic
2. any other zinc & it's cousins based too brittle to roll into sheet
3. aluminium based is ~~ about 1/3 the weight of brass & the Standard scratch test would confirm
Would be interested to understand....my best guess is .3........
To try & understand, I cut a postage stamp 25 x 30 x 0.0058 mm brass shim......only to find the resolution on my scale was 1 gm minimum >>:-(
Derek
-
Wow, I am building my first boat so to see this is amazing.
-
Probably anodized aliminium....... :((
Apart from that.....she is looking good, vey good indeed.
Keep up the good work mate.
-
Wow, I am building my first boat so to see this is amazing.
Boat building if fun and I love it - if your building your first boat my advice is to really take your time with the frames. If you get them right and nice and straight everything else follows nicely. If the frames are wrong you end up constantly correcting as you go along. Good luck with your build :-))
-
Probably anodized aliminium....... :((
Apart from that.....she is looking good, vey good indeed.
Keep up the good work mate.
Cheers mate :-)) I think that you and Derek are right it looks like the aluminium with 3 plated coats. The top one is brass over the top of chrome which is over a coat of copper. Its taking a while to get it off so I've dropped the plates into some brick cleaner with has hydrochloric acid in it. Its not too strong but probably strong enough to attack the aluminium if left for too long. I'll see how it goes over night.
-
Are these any good for what you're trying to achieve Mark?
https://www.alwayshobbies.com/materials/metals/k$4s-brass-sheet-and-shim
Link didn't work. I'll try again...
Regards,
Ray.
-
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/brass_sheet.html
This link instead?
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Ray thanks for the link. I originally and incorrectly thought that the plates were just brass sheet. I didn't like the very shiny finish so I thought that I would patina them a bit to dull them down which just took the plating straight off.
Thats ok though because now I'm just going to strip all of the plating off and get back to the base material. I'll then fit them and probably air brush a few different browns on just to give it a weathered look. I reckon it will look ok when done and a whole lot better than having a shiny brass ring all of the way around the hull. I just need to be patient and let the acid do its job :-))
-
Sounds like a good idea.
I took another look at the link and didn't realise it was so expensive.
Hope your idea works out okay.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Your last post sounds by far the best plan Mark...however just minimise the time the plates are in any more acid...as you will end up with scale rusted pinholes in the aluminium that will continue to corrode....[even when painted] just like real steel >>:-(
Just for reference, 0.002" brass sheet can be cut with a Stanley knife, but still leaves a razzor sharp rolled edge
[According the the electrochemical Series :o
It would have been Aluminium, a few Microns of Nickel, a few Microns of Copper then finally a few Microns of Brass
The other seemingly crazy thing is ......this plated material is probably more expensive than standard brass .........the method in madness is the ability of the aluminium based material to be high speed roller punched and produces small sized profiles with crisp edges that have little if any punch marking or rags that need gently filing or 20 band-Aids over cut fingers
Derek
-
Derek you are spot on it is nickel after all as the base plating over the aluminium.
Now I've had a bit of a result as the acid has worked its magic overnight. As per usual with me its more luck than judgement but I looked at the plates when I got up and was surprised with the results.
A lot of the chrome had been dissolved away and the nickel was showing through quite evenly. So I washed the plates clean and gave them a bit of a buff with a rough scotch bright pad and the results are great. The photos don't really do them justice but they look quite weathered now and should look even better with a matt varnish
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/22/IMG_3210.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/22/IMG_3206.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/22/IMG_3208.jpg)
So I'm going glue them on as they are and maybe just give them a wash of very thin black. I'll see what they look like once on. I'm so pleased with the results as at one point I thought that they were lost. Thanks for all of the input and advice from you all. I've just got to epoxy all 32 plates on now
Mark :-)
-
Glad to see your persistence is paying off Mark.
Looking forward to seeing more on this one O0
Regards,
Ray.
-
Those plates still look crisp :-)) ....you could consider chemical blackening......works very well on brass, but there is a brew form aluminium....
Derek
-
Hi Derek there'll be no more chemicals put on these plates - I've pushed my luck as far as I can and to re-make them would be more bother than it was worth. Anymore weathering will be done with my air brush.
The plates are going on very nicely using epoxy resin but they really don't want to conform to the shape of the hull. I tried bending them and that didn't work so I resorted to force {-) Loads of clamps and hey presto they gave up the fight :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/24/IMG_3211.jpg)
You can now see the true final shape of the forecastle as all of the wood above the plates is surplus and needs to be removed
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/24/IMG_3212.jpg)
A couple of side shots - I'll have the starboard side finished tonight
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/24/IMG_3214.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/24/IMG_3213.jpg)
So far so good - Unfortunately all of the brass nails supplied to fill the holes on the plates are far too long. I've cut down a few but fitting 7 nails I lost 12 as they pinged off somewhere never to be found again. Its not a problem I'll get some more from CMB in the new year. I think fitting all of the nails will take longer than fitting the plates.
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Bonjour Mark,
What an amazing job, it is a pleasure to follow your progress. And loosing small things is part of the job, imagine my beloved wife (not fan of my passion) discovering a nut or a screw in the bathroom... ok2
Bon Noël !
-
Overdue for compliments mate
Absolutely stunning! as always. Don't we just love Wolfcraft O0
Re the nails, are you not using those pin vices to drill pilots for them?
Merry Christmas
P.S. did you get anywhere with the Fairmount?
-
Rafael many thanks for your kind words my friend and Bon Noel to you and your family too :-)
Hi Andy - I have a saying "Wolfcraft to the rescue" {-) They are so powerful they actually have quite a limited use but boy when you do need them they save the day. I am using a pin vice to drill the holes and the pins cut down very easily. Its when I've got the pin in a pair of tweezers ready to put in the hole that they just ping off somewhere. And because they have got a bit of cyano on them they will just stick where ever they land. I've only a few hundred of them to fit but it'll be ok.
The Fairmount is still sitting on the top of the wardrobe waiting to be sailed - its sad really I've either got to start sailing it or sell it one of the two.
Have a great Xmas and happy building in the new year :-))
-
Just beautiful! Merry Christmas from Mary and I. We’re delaying Christmas by one day due to family work Rita’s. a common thing in our life.
Jerry.
-
Hi Jerry - A little late but we hope you had a nice Xmas too and have a great new year :-))
Now after fitting 32 plates with 334 nails which all had to be cut down; drilled and glued here are the results on the finished metal work. It took a bit of miniature panel beating but they went on ok.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3216.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3219.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3217.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3218.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3220.jpg)
Mark :-)
-
Nice work Mark - you've 'nailed it' {-)
... Looking realistic, as it should with the amount of effort being put into it.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Doesn't that stand just shout LOOK at ME :-) Fantastic
I really must try harder than plastic pipes {-)
-
Thanks Andy and Ray it really has been worth all of the effort and Andy there's nothing wrong with plastic mate :-)) . Even my wife commented on how nice its looking and thats a rare event {-)
We've just had a topping out celebration as I decided to get the name onto it. The kit provides brass cast letters that need to be fixed to the stern. I couldn't find a way of clamping them so I pinned them on instead.
Carefully drilling a 1mm hole in each letter. I wanted to use a smaller pin that 1mm but thats the smallest cobalt drill I've got.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3221.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3222.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3223.jpg)
Now I don't know why but the letters are all slightly different sizes so they look a bit random to me. Oh well its what I've got so that's what I used. They are glued on with epoxy with a little cyano on the 1mm brass pin to hold them in place. I think it looks quite quaint and will look better once the main rail is on and I'll probably age them a bit too later on.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3224.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/31/IMG_3225.jpg)
So the next job is to shape the forecastle to the plates and then actually get back inside the hull. That will be a good day as I've never seen inside it since its been planked. After that I'm not sure yet but a plan will come together
Mark
-
Looking really special matey. Reference small drill bits. These are cheap as chips and I buy a set whenever I see them. 0.3 - 1.6 mm.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/01/2F89BECE-C873-4476-B470-85C3892009EC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZMDKv)
Jerry.
-
Hi Jerry thanks mate :-)) I've got some drills just like those that go down to 0.5mm but they just won't go through hard castings. I've tried lubricating the tip with oil and that didn't make any difference either. But the cobalt drills go through very easily indeed so I use them almost exclusively now. They seem to last forever too!
Now I wasn't entirely happy with the ships name. As I have said before all of the letters are different sizes. The letter "E" is 1.5mm shorter than the letter "T" next to it. So I've moved the letter "E" up 1mm to roughly the middle of the others and I think it looks a lot better. Well its as good as I can get it. Sometimes I wish that I didn't glue things on so well as it took some getting off {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/01/IMG_3226.jpg)
Mark
-
Yeah, that looks a lot better Mark.
I've had a look at a few photos of the model elsewhere and they all have the shorter 'E' :((
Regards,
Ray.
-
Bonjour,
This model is also very appreciated even if uncommon in France.
Can we see the "E" ok2 ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30)
And a 1,20m/27 kilos other one but with a different way of making the letters :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1B6etQ30b8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1B6etQ30b8)
-
I felt exactly the same about your E Mark but I knew you'd sort it without it being mentioned :-))
-
Bonjour,
This model is also very appreciated even if uncommon in France.
Can we see the "E" ok2 ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30)
And a 1,20m/27 kilos other one but with a different way of making the letters :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1B6etQ30b8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1B6etQ30b8)
Wow that is a beautifully built Anteo what a lovely job! And thanks all for the encouragement :-))
-
I had a few minutes today and plucked up the courage to cut the forecastle down to size. Out with my fret saw and off I went %% I trimmed up the stem post too so now you can see the true shape of the hull :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3227.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3228.jpg)
I think it looks lovely but its still not trimmed fully back as the bulwarks still have another layer of planks to be applied on the inside. That will make the bulwarks 4.5mm thick :o
So next was to remove the false decks that have been in place for so long - time to see the inside - its like a flipping cathedral!!!!! Its huge inside!!!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3230.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3229.jpg)
And I couldn't resist - I just had to drop the Pendle boiler in to see what it looked like as I've been waiting sooooo long for this moment
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3232.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3233.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3231.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3235.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/01/04/IMG_3234.jpg)
I'm really pleased as all of the planning so far has worked out nicely. Everything is very very low in the hull so it should be quite stable in the water. So the next steps are to clean up the inside of the hull and just make sure that nothing needs tweeking before the deck goes on. It also needs a couple of coats of epoxy and a coat of varnish on the inside to make it watertight and washable too. This will take me a few weeks so I'll not update this thread until thats all finished.
On the negative side - My proportional dividers managed to fall out of the cupboard above my work bench and somehow bulls eye the back of my hand. It was quite an eye watering experience pulling them out of my hand and I didn't realise just how much blood I had in that area of my body {-) All cleaned up now but a bit sore - but I did get some great photo's but your not seeing them {-) {-)
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Even I'm excited! You must be delighted its stunning O0
-
Bonjour Mark,
Great job indeed :-)) You have been clever enough to plan the position of the steam plant in the hull before finishing the boat. My only concern, as I am not a vampire, is not the blood but the fact I do not see a whistle ok2
-
Bonjour Mark,
Great job indeed :-)) You have been clever enough to plan the position of the steam plant in the hull before finishing the boat. My only concern, as I am not a vampire, is not the blood but the fact I do not see a whistle ok2
:-))
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,59708.msg631451.html#msg631451
-
That cathedral space appears to have shrunk with the pendle on board :o ... looks like it belongs though O0
I did get some great photo's but your not seeing them {-) {-)
Cheers Mark :-)
Spoilsport! ;D
Regards,
Ray.
-
Bonjour Taramis,
Many thanks, I have the memory of a goldfish :embarrassed:
Mark, If I would say that your build is perfect, how woul you support this ?
-
That cathedral space appears to have shrunk with the pendle on board :o ... looks like it belongs though O0
Spoilsport! ;D
Regards,
Ray.
That boiler looks like it grew there %% The perfect boiler for the hull. But trust me Ray you don't want to see those photo's {-)
-
Even I'm excited! You must be delighted its stunning O0
Thanks Andy - loads to do and I really want to get onto the superstructure. I've got a lovely plank of pear wood that I'm going to mill for this job!
-
Bonjour Taramis,
Many thanks, I have the memory of a goldfish :embarrassed:
Mark, If I would say that your build is perfect, how woul you support this ?
Raphael its not perfect mate but at this stage in my building career its the best that I can do. I can honestly say that I'm really enjoying getting this build done.
-
What I'm thinking is using the light coloured boxwood that I used on the hull for the deck planking and the bulwarks on the inside. Then using the mahogany for the main rail so thats its all in keeping with whats been built so far. But then introducing the pear wood into the superstructure with the other two woods. The pear wood has really nice pinkish hue to it and the grain is very tight like the boxwood. Should look nice hopefully :-)
-
Bonjour Mark,
A tug is a working vessel, not a yacht, I guess shipyards would use common woods,not luxury ones like mahogny ok2
After a few push/pull operations, your baby shoud be rusty and dirty, I know we hardly like our models in this state...
-
Hi Mark looking great and weight down low will be a real help so long as you keep the weight topside to an absolute minimum as there appears to be little room for ballast also how will you keep an eye on the water gauge pressure gauge ? suggest possibly a small mirror like a dentist uses ,perhaps mounted n the wheel house,the gas tank appears to be a permanent fixed ,will this be a hazard when filling, as mentioned in a previous post this is where the real fun starts keep up your excellent work.
Cheers
John
-
Hi John thanks for the comments. I had completely overlooked the thought of being able to see the water pressure gauge. I can see it clearly without the superstructure being on but its something I will need to think about so thanks for that :-)) Fortunately though the gas tank is removable and thats what I intend to do when it requires filling and also I can get quite a lot of ballast actually underneath the boiler/motor plate. If I cant get enough there I'll probably fix it outside in the keel but here's hoping
-
Hi Mark.
Lead shot from a gunshop is incredibly heavy if expensive but can poor into shapes and add resin to bind it. Using with clingfilm or similar to prevent it sticking to the hull. If it then turns out to be over weight you can pull it out and cut some off. Alternatively just us individual bags and it still fits better than blocks of lead
-
Hi Mark.
Lead shot from a gunshop is incredibly heavy if expensive but can poor into shapes and add resin to bind it. Using with clingfilm or similar to prevent it sticking to the hull. If it then turns out to be over weight you can pull it out and cut some off
Hi Andy - yep this is what I used on my last build and it worked great. I like the way it moulds to the hull and doesn't move when underway :-))
-
It may be you I got the idea from then {-) :-))
-
I wouldn’t worry about removing the gas tank each time to fill it. I don’t. If there’s a bit of gas lying around it just goes pop when you light the burner. You’ll have the tophamper off for filling anyway, keeps your eyebrows short!
Jerry.
-
One needs a good sturdy bag for the lead shot nothing worse than the little black buggers rolling around in the hull and difficult to remove,
Cheers
John
-
Hi John on my last build I found the places that I wanted to place the lead shot and then placed cling film into that area. I then poured the lead shot onto the cling film and pulled it around to make a bag. Next I poured epoxy resin into the bag of shot and then pushed the bag exactly into place. Once the epoxy had hardened the shot was like a solid block and was going no where. It was like a solid piece of lead that fitted exactly into the hull but was also removable because the cling film stopped it from sticking to the hull. It is possible to remove the cling film but I've just left mine on.
-
Bonjour,
In France, we can find 2mm thick sheets of lead. I cut it with scissors to put in in the frame without any glue because, I have to finish the boat and remove some weight, nothing moves : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6q4yYpVcA8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6q4yYpVcA8)
-
I
Bonjour,
In France, we can find 2mm thick sheets of lead. I cut it with scissors to put in in the frame without any glue because, I have to finish the boat and remove some weight, nothing moves : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6q4yYpVcA8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6q4yYpVcA8)
I use lead sheet for ballast too, it is very good as it is easy to cut and fit on the bottom of the hull even under the steam plant and other tight spots.
-
Sorry about the lack of updates on this build but I've had a bit of a set back.
I was using some 20 minute epoxy resin on the inside to fill up some of the weaker parts of the hull. I did this on my last build and it worked well. Unfortunately I poured a bit to much in one area and wow - the heat build up was so hot that I couldn't even touch the hull with my bare fingers. I cooled it all down using wet cloths on the outside for about 30 minutes which worked well.
The good news was that the wood work did not move one bit under such heat so the planking has proven to be solid. The bad news was that it blistered the epoxy finish on the outside of the hull in a few small places. It really did look bad but after a few days of sanding back and repair work its all looking good again.
Such a silly mistake by me that has caused days of work. Anyway I'm now back to where I was weeks ago so hopefully I'll have something more positive soon
Mark
-
That was a swift rescue with the wet cloths Mark, you definitely avoided a total disaster there.
Hopefully, that will be your last setback on this build :-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Very lucky Mark its called exotherm we used to have lots of problems in telephone cable joints as it would melt the tiny plastic insulation.
I updated my Joffre build post but so far no replies oh well tugs and towing.
Cheers
John
-
Lads I was lucky - if this had been a plastic or resin hull it would have definitely ruined the complete thing. I knew that epoxy could get warm but I never realised it could get as hot as it did. I think its important to put our errors on our build logs so that others can see that nothing quite goes to plan {-)
I can now get on with getting the inside of the hull coated as I've finished sanding it out which quite frankly is a thankless task. Oh and I need to get the prop tube glued in too.
-
Hi All
A bit of an update on this build
Firstly I gave the hull a good couple of coats of epoxy on the inside to protect it and give it some strength too. I really dislike this job for some reason and I put it off for weeks. Then I fitted the studs for the motor and boiler mount which go all of the way through the frames.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3260.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3261.jpg)
I then epoxied in the studs that will hold the servo for the gas valve as it will be impossible to fit them at a later stage
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3268.jpg)
And then fitted the stainless steel servo mounts as I think it will be easier to do it now rather than later. Sorry about the picture being the wrong way around.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3269.jpg)
Then the propshaft was epoxied into place and you can see how the oiler tube just fits around the separator mount
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3267.jpg)
Next was to fit the deck beams in place which then had their first coat of resin
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3263.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3266.jpg)
And so did the sub deck
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3270.jpg)
The deck and the beams were then sanded and given a second coat of resin. Whilst this was still wet the whole assembly was put together and screwed down using very small stainless steel screws
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3274.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3275.jpg)
Once it was all dry the bulwark supports were removed
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3276.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3277.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3278.jpg)
Next I did an experiment to see how to make the caulking in-between the decks. I used an archival ink pen and you can see the results. Side 1 is colouring only one side of each plank and side 2 is colouring both sides of each plank. I really couldn't see much in it so I have decided to colour both sides. I also gave them a coat of varnish just to make sure that the ink did not run.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3279.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3280.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3281.jpg)
So the next job is the planking of the deck. I really like the colour of the sub deck so I have decided to use pear wood for the deck as its pretty much the same colour. I spent a couple of hours on the table saw and made some 1mm x 6mm planks which should look very nice once they are glued on
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3284.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/03/02/IMG_3283.jpg)
So all in all things are going to plan albeit at my usual slow pace. I should have the deck done this weekend - well hopefully
Thanks for looking - Mark
-
Quite amazing 8)
-
Thoughtful, practical and inspirational application - great to see and follow - keep it going Mark. :-)
-
BOSTIN!
Jerry.
-
Thanks all :-)) The decking is going on really well so it shouldn’t take too long to do. Then I’ll need to fit the forecastle deck and plank that too. Then the bulwarks get another layer on the inside just to finish them off. Loads to do but enjoyable :-)
-
Hi fellow mayhemer's I hope that you are all staying in and staying safe :-) Sorry for the delay on this build but we had new windows fitted just before the lockdown and that created a load of decorating for me which is now done.
Anyway back to the tug. The planking of the deck went ok but I was surprised by just how much timber and glue I used doing this. The pile of planks that I made from pear wood was made again twice! So I underestimated by 66% and used quite a quantity of my stock.
A work in progress trying to keep it as square and straight as possible
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3286.jpg)
Fully planked but still in a rough state requiring sanding down
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3297.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3296.jpg)
This is what the job looks like now with the rough edges knocked of of it. The final sanding and finishing is still quite a long way away but its looking promising. I think using a pen for caulking has worked quite well
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3298.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3300.jpg)
Next up was fitting the forecastle deck - Now I haven't really criticised this kit but wow there are literally no instructions on how to fit this. Just a picture and thats it and the parts were extremely inaccurate. I think Panart need to look at this! Anyway its mounted on two formers that need a lot of shaping and a guess of exactly where they go.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3301.jpg)
I also had to chisel away the former that you use to build the planking on the bow to free up the stem. Its easy you just have to be very careful
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3302.jpg)
Now once the deck goes on a void is created that cannot be got to at a later date so I painted the whole assembly in epoxy and screwed it together whilst wet.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3303.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3304.jpg)
I have decided to finish the bulwarks on the inside using boxwood to match the outside to I started on the step in front to the forecastle
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3306.jpg)
Which I finished and sanded to shape and then laid the king plank for the forecastle deck
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3309.jpg)
I also did the same for the stern bulwark
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3307.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3308.jpg)
Now this is only rough sanded but again it looks promising
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3313.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3312.jpg)
I then planked the forecastle deck which so far is looking okay. The glue is still wet so its got to wait until tomorrow before any sanding can be done
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3310.jpg)
But I did manage to get one of the bulwark strips on as a bit of a bonus for me. The bulwarks are a full 5mm thick!!!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/03/IMG_3314.jpg)
Thats it for now so thanks for looking and stay safe all :-))
Mark :-)
-
Well worth the wait! absolutely drop dead gorgeous O0
-
Hi Andy - thanks - yea its coming on ok and now that I've been furloughed I reckon I'll get quite a lot done. I have been quite lucky as the main rail is made out of 10mm x 4mm mahogany - well it is now :-)) I found a strip of mahogany and managed to mill 3 pieces that add up to 2.5m in length so I've got plenty to mess around with. How I'm going to bend it I have no idea but I'm sure that I'll sort it.
Also my wood supplier is still doing mail order so I ordered some boxwood for the superstructure so that I can do away with all of the plywood. When every cut and joint is on show - it takes time and expensive mistakes too!
I must say though - I'm really enjoying this little tug boat and its actually starting to look like a boat now.
-
Drop dead gorgeous matey. Stay safe. We all prisoners Cheeky baby, we all locked in!
Jerry.
-
Thanks Jerry I hope that you and Mary are OK too :-))
Ok a bit of an update on the build - I have carried on with the forecastle deck and the lining of the bulwarks which involved cutting some stealers to make the planks wide enough in places. I've had a bit of practice at this now so its getting easier
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3315.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3316.jpg)
As I often tell my wife a boat builder can never have enough clamps {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3321.jpg)
Anyway here she is now with all of those jobs complete and the bulwarks sanded to their final shape too.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3347.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3344.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3346.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3348.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3350.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3349.jpg)
I really love this picture as you can really see the 3 layers of planking :-)) There are so many angles that had to be cut here to get this tight O0
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3345.jpg)
Its only very rough sanded at the moment as theres still loads to do. I need now to cut all of the cable holes and scuppers in the bulwark which I think is going to take a bit of time. Then I can get on and try and make the main rail and also remove the deck beams to open up the hull. Loads to do!!!
I'll try and get another update on here later on today - Mark :-)
-
I had to move away from the hull for a bit just for a bit of light relief so I put the anchors together - quite nice castings too!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3322.jpg)
I then glued some bits of mahogany together as I needed to remake the anchor hawsers (I hope thats the correct name for them)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3323.jpg)
Here is what I needed to make. The supplied ones are fine they are just the wrong type of wood. I also wanted to make them 1mm thicker due to the way I wanted to mount the anchors. So I marked out the blocks that I made - and as always clearly mark which bit you need to remove :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3326.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3328.jpg)
I could have knocked them up by hand by the mill makes them far more accurate. So I made a couple of wooden parallels to make sure it was all square at got milling
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3329.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3330.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3331.jpg)
Then I popped a pilot hole through them at the required angle and then enlarged it to its final size
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3332.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3333.jpg)
Just the job :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3336.jpg)
I gave the anchors a bit of an airbrush and also modified them so that I can fit them without putting any holes in the hull
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3338.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3339.jpg)
Then milled a little slot to into the back of the hawsers to allow me to glue the anchors in place once I've bent the brass wire
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3343.jpg)
Ta da!! I think these will look great once the hawsers are given a coat of epoxy and sanded flat
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/08/IMG_3340.jpg)
Cheers Mark :-)
-
If there is an award for build of the century this has surely got to win it........ :-)) :-)) :-))
-
Thanks bfgstew :-)) I may make a model shipwright yet - well in another decade or two!
I've now sorted all of the piercings on one side of the boat. As I thought its very very time consuming but hey I've got time on my hands. Its mainly because of the thickness of the bulwarks which are just over 5mm thick. I like the box wood too it holds a sharp edge very well.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3351.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3352.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3354.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3353.jpg)
In the kit they supply some really nice brass castings for the oval holes. You get one dead straight one and two that are cast at an angle
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3355.jpg)
Once in I think they look pretty smart but I need to dull them down a bit first
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3357.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/09/IMG_3356.jpg)
You probably also noticed that the hull is now open as I've cut away the unnecessary deck beams. So I'll carry on doing the same on the other side.
Now I do have a bit of a dilemma - I knew that when I epoxied the outside of the hull the epoxy that I used was not water proof and bloomed when it got wet. I used this epoxy because it was literally water thin and made the job so much easier. The plan was to seal it with a matt clear coat such as Rustoleum polyurethane to seal it up. But I've now done a couple of experiments with two different matt coats and I must say just how underwhelming they have both been. One was rock hard and chipped easily and the other just doesn't seen to go off properly. I think my idea was probably not a good one now but I need to come up with a solution. I'm seriously thinking about giving the hull a coat of ZPoxy finishing resin to seal it up properly. This will involve loads of work to smooth off and will be made harder as the rudder is now fitted. I would appreciate any thoughts on this from you all?
Cheers Mark :-)
-
A quick update
I've now cut the holes on the other side of the bulwarks and I'm glad that it out of the way - a very laborious job!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/10/IMG_3358.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/10/IMG_3359.jpg)
I'm going to have two jobs on the go now. I need to get a finished coat onto the hull all over to give some protection once its all sanded nice and smooth. Having thought about my epoxy issue overnight I think I will give the hull a coat of ZPoxy even though there's loads of work involved. I'm also going to start the main rail which is quite a piece of timber at 4mm x 8mm final size. I'm using some 4mm x 10mm mahogany so that I've got some wiggle room getting the shape right.
Mark
-
Wow Mark I just had the pleasure of discovering your thread on the Anteo tug build and I must say I have never seen as much care and excruciating detail as what I have read here. The planking was amazing, that it is double planking is even more so. The prep for the steam plant is also really wonderful. You have made a lot of fans along the way and I am happy to become one.
I have building a tug in mind but it won't rival this one!
I do have a suggestion for your epoxy woe. I use 5:1 WEST epoxy for cedar strip-plank hull construction and it is really good stuff. It is very hard and responds well to sanding with no load up. After the planking is faired with grades of sandpaper, down to 220 or even 320, the hull is painted with epoxy again and a build-up is started but not yet smooth, so more sanding after cure. Maybe even wet sand but no break-through. No remaining brushstrokes or lumps. Now the final step and here's what might work for you at this point: after you have sanded and prepped the existing coating, the final epoxy coat is made by squeegeing on a thin coat and then immediately wiping it all off with paper towel, so only a wet "smear" coating remains, and this is allowed to cure. (squeegee used so only a minimal coat is applied) No worry about the paper fuzz that might remain since it sands easily. Then after minimal sanding, say 320 grit, this can be repeated. Light sanding so no break-through. You can do this a couple of time and and get a good epoxy coat, and then as the final step, apply a coat of high gloss marine varnish (I use Z-Spar but Epihanes would be good too).
I have no experience with this technique on top of whatever finish you used, but assuming it is a good bond to the hull, and the blushing is sanded out, the overcoats of epoxy and varnish should preclude any further blush or bloom or water effects of any kind. I also believe that what makes it work is that the 5:1 epoxy is very hard when cured so it sands smooth without any trouble. Whether it works with your Zpoxy i cannot tell. (I don't think 2:1 epoxy will have the same hardness) But the wipe-it-off technique will definitely makes things easier. And a spar varnish coat is a super way to top it off.
Once again, BIG compliments on the quality of your model build which I must say is very inspiring. As I get along on the idea for my St Andrew (Floataboat) tug I will keep in mind some of the work you have detailed. I will follow what remans of your build and the steam-up with great interest.
Carl Miller
-
Hi Carl - Many thanks for your kind comments its very much appreciated and so is your advice regarding the epoxy resin.
My issue with the resin is that it blooms when wet and I knew this when I applied it. The finish that it has given is really nice and its great to work with too. The plan was simply to give the hull a spray coat of polyurethane to stop any water getting through to the resin underneath. This is going to be a matt finish rather than a glossy one.
But having experimented with these polyurethane sprays I'm worried that they are not hard wearing enough and that over time it may get damaged and allow water through. If this happens I'm not sure whether the bloom will remain localised to that spot or travel underneath the rest of the polyurethane coat.
So yesterday I sanded the entire hull down including the decks to prep it for a coat of resin that I know is very hard and completely waterproof. And would you believe it has to be applied exactly the way you have mentioned. I was hoping not to have to do this but I really don't want to take the chance of bloom occurring. I will probably get away with one coat as its still going to get a coat of polyurethane. If it gets through that it deserves to bloom {-)
Mark
-
Bonjour Mark,
I have no experience with epoxy resin and have discovered recently that one of my babies has a porous hull :((
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ck-aauJ--Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ck-aauJ--Y)
Carl is right and, based on experienced friends feedback, I would add a very light fibre glass fabric 15 - 25 g / m2. Easy to sand and after painting, your boat hull will be permanently protected even in the event of a slight impact.
-
Bonjour Mark,
I have no experience with epoxy resin and have discovered recently that one of my babies has a porous hull :((
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ck-aauJ--Y (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ck-aauJ--Y)
Carl is right and, based on experienced friends feedback, I would add a very light fibre glass fabric 15 - 25 g / m2. Easy to sand and after painting, your boat hull will be permanently protected even in the event of a slight impact.
Hi Raphael I'm sorry to hear about your boat being porous I really hope that you get it sorted out :-)
I also agree that glass fibre fabric is essential - I have used a 49g/m2 fabric already and the hull is pretty tough and should withstand a knock or two :-))
-
How about a nice coat or 12 of epifanes varnish to the outside?
-
How about a nice coat or 12 of epifanes varnish to the outside?
I've never heard of this before so I googled it and it looks like really great stuff. If only I hadn't already spent £30 on spray matt polyurethane :(( One to remember for my next build :-)
-
I have got some more done today
Firstly I've started on the main rail so I made a template to work from to get around the stern - I would like to thank Amazon for the cardboard!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/12/IMG_3360A.jpg)
I then drew the inner part of the bulwarks and also the rail at its final size - well actually my drawing is a bit inaccurate so its slightly wider than the actual size :embarrassed:
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/12/IMG_3362.jpg)
And then marked out the sections to make the curve - the wood is 10mm x 4mm and as you can see not quite symmetrical. I'll just say that this tug has had a bump or two in its time {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/12/IMG_3364.jpg)
So lots of cuts to make and I'll glue it together on the template so hopefully it will fit ok before final sanding
I've also masked up and sprayed the stem so thats another part finished
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/12/IMG_3363.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/12/IMG_3365.jpg)
So tomorrow I'm going to coat the outside of the hull in epoxy below the metalwork and make a start on cutting out the main rail
Mark :-)
-
Hi All
Its been a pretty good day today :-) I masked off all of the brass and put the coat of ZPoxy resin on the hull. Its like painting with treacle but its on now. I just had to be careful not to get any down the rudder tube. So I'm no longer worried about the blooming issue but it does need sanding flat and also a coat of matt polyurethane.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/13/IMG_3366.jpg)
And while I was at it I also gave the anchor hawsers a coat too. The mahogany looks nice and they should look good with the anchors glued in
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/13/IMG_3370.jpg)
Next was onto starting the main rail - so I cut all of the bits out on the table saw and then got gluing. So far so good I just hope that it releases ok from the cardboard that I glued it together on. Lots of mad angles %%
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/13/IMG_3367.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/13/IMG_3369.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/13/IMG_3368.jpg)
And finally the aging process on the brass hawsers has turned out pretty good too. They look a lot better than when they were all shiny
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/13/IMG_3371.jpg)
I can't do anymore today as things need to dry :-))
Mark :-)
-
Hi All
More done today - Firstly I released the stern rail from the template and just knocked off the roughest edges. It fits ok and looks promising but I can't shape it properly until the rest of the rail is in and glued on
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3372.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3373.jpg)
I then started what I knew would be the hardest part of the rail which is where it sweeps up towards the forecastle deck. It has to fit very tightly or its going to look very bad. I tried a few different methods like soaking with water and then bending it over and aeropicolla iron but that didn't work. I also tried making the bend out of a laminated section and then cut it to shape but that looked awful too.
In the end I made a jig, soaked the wood and used a hot air gun to bend it around. It took a few attempts to get it right but this timber is thick hardwood and just did not want to play!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3374.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3375.jpg)
I managed to get the shape pretty much about there but to glue it in place tightly I had to make a mega clamp %% A couple of toggle clamps to make sure its in the right place whilst the glue dries
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3376.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3377.jpg)
And finally I mounted the anchors into the hawsers and gave them a coat of matt polyurethane. I'm really pleased with these and should look great once I glue them to the hull
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3378.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/14/IMG_3379.jpg)
So tomorrow I'll carry on with the main rail. I was going to flat the hull down ready for it final coat but I'm going to leave this until the rail is finished as the hull is getting knocked around a bit at the moment
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Regarding the stern coaming, once again you've come up with a good solution and, once trimmed, should look good.
As for the upsweep on the for'd section, your photos show just how thick that wood is. You certainly don't give in easily do you?
Regards,
Ray.
-
Bonjour Mark,
As you have a great talent and unfortunately a lot of time at home I guess, these anchors deserve a special function.
Why would not you install a little RC electric windlass ? I have one to be repaired on one of my tugs and it seems to be easy to install if you choose a simple solution without electronic stops at each end.
-
Regarding the stern coaming, once again you've come up with a good solution and, once trimmed, should look good.
As for the upsweep on the for'd section, your photos show just how thick that wood is. You certainly don't give in easily do you?
Regards,
Ray.
Hi Ray - thanks mate :-)) I tend to see these things as a challenge which is just as well really {-) I'm quite new to bending wood so I'm discovering just what can be done. I'm pleasantly surprised just how we can manipulate wood without too much effort. I've just got to do the other side now!!
-
Bonjour Mark,
As you have a great talent and unfortunately a lot of time at home I guess, these anchors deserve a special function.
Why would not you install a little RC electric windlass ? I have one to be repaired on one of my tugs and it seems to be easy to install if you choose a simple solution without electronic stops at each end.
Bonjour Raphael - Now I did consider this as the windlass that is suppled could easily be converted into one that works. The reason I decided not too was because I would need to punch holes into the hull that just don't need to be there. Its a bit like the forward port holes as they are also supposed to be drilled out and the the brass surrounds installed. I will simply paint the area dark grey and slide the brass parts over once I have thinned them out a bit. I like my boats to be as water tight as possible.
-
Mark
Still it's amazing to watch this build and the supreme skill going into Anteo. It's a pleasure to watch a master at work.
Just one question on the part of the rail that sweeps up and gave you a hard time with the laminations-- wondering why you didn't just make those two short pieces out a solid block? I guess if no material available is one possibility. Or maybe because it is less realistic.
I am sure because you mentioned it elsewhere you soaked the wood strips when yoj tried the lamination, but did you add ammonia to the soak, or use Windex? This softens the wood in a very short time and you can progressively massage the wood around a mandrel to preshape the curve, then when you lay it up with a little clamping there might be a lot less argument, and you get the exact shape you want. I guess it wouldn't work so well on a thick piece as you used-- that's quite a curve!
Seems unlikely you would be unaware of this technique, however,,,
BW i really admire your Destako clamps, in the mega-application, how very clever
-Carl
-
Hi Carl
Honestly I tend to just try and solve each problem as I go along which actually is why I love building ships. To try and answer your question - when I say I laminated some pieces; what I did was glue a load of pieces together to make a really thick piece of wood. I then thought that I would just mark out the curve and cut it out so that it fitted and then sand it down to the required thickness. This just did not work :(( I don't know if I was rushing or the fact that my little band saw is not that accurate but it just looked wrong. Not only that you could see that the grain in the wood was all over the place.
Now I have tried using ammonia before and I have had some really good results too and recommend this to everyone. But I also found that it can change the colour of the wood.
Because the rail is supposed to be a uniform one piece colour I was reluctant to try this. I really have had to force this wood into shape - it makes you wince a bit because not only am I bending it I am stretching it too. I have never bent such thick wood before I just need to replicate what I have already done and thats the hardest part. My work is 2 parts engineering and 5 parts luck. Cheers for all of your input into this build :-))
Mark
-
Oh I guessed you would have laminated the strips around the form you made. No cutting. Then all you'd see is the edges of the lams but still that would be unlike the rest of the rail which I guess you are going to varnish. So your one-piece super-bend is a success!
I know what you mean one challenge at a time, sort of make it up as you go along.
Now we'll see how you form the bow curves. Boat is looking terrific.
-cm
-
Hi,
When your doing your gunwhales and using a card template you can put sellotape down (carefully), cheap parcel tape works also as it's not opaque and you can still see the marks easy. Not found any glues yet that sticks to it! It's an old trick. Your work so far is awesome though!
Rich
-
Carl and Rich thanks for your comments - You know what I've used that sellotape trick before and completely forgot about it this time - doh!!! I was really worried about having to draw it all again in case I had measured something wrong.......Thanks for reminding me :-))
So today I removed the clamps and tidied it up a bit and so far its looking ok. I may have placed it slightly wrong but I'm going to have to live with it now
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3381.jpg)
Next I bent some more mahogany for the other side and swivelled my mega clamp over - This technique works so well
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3382.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3383.jpg)
Then I glued on the stern rail which fits pretty good
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3384.jpg)
Another day another jig {-) This one is to bend the rail for the forecastle deck as nothing is straight on this tug
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3385.jpg)
And for the rest of the day I've been piecing and gluing the forecastle rail into place. It looks rough but it needs loads of shaping to get it right once the glue is dry. Its also been cut down to 8.5mm wide which is nearer to its 8mm final width. I guessed that it would save me a lot of sanding if i did this now.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3386.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3387.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3388.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3390.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3389.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/15/IMG_3391.jpg)
Tomorrow I plan on getting the rest of the rail glued on and hopefully start shaping it up too
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Your methods for shaping wood are great. Your clamping methods look solid as well O0
Regards,
Ray.
Note :In the last photo I thought you had suffered damage to the hull - turns out it's just a reflection %)
-
Your methods for shaping wood are great. Your clamping methods look solid as well O0
Regards,
Ray.
Note :In the last photo I thought you had suffered damage to the hull - turns out it's just a reflection %)
Cheers Ray wood is such a nice thing to work with - there are now 4 coats of epoxy on this hull and cloth and I reckon I could throw it out of a second floor window and it would bounce or damage the floor {-)
-
On bending the cockpit coaming on Wear I tried ammonia and failed miserably. I next tried window cleaning spray, the name escapes me but it was blue. I used a swingbin about 12” square, placed the mahogany stock (about 3” wide) middled across the top and put a house brick in the middle. Every hour throughout the day I gave it a good spray. Next morning the brick was on the bottom of the bin. On removing the stock was set with a beautiful bend. I rinsed it and let it dry. When I came to fit it when clamping up it cracked in the centre of the curve so I wicked some cyo into the crack and completed the clamping. The crack on completion was invisible. On my second launch I had no mahogany so I used a 1mm birch ply and 1/8” balsa laminate with a half round Tasmanian oak cap. This was a long process but when stained looked just as good as Wear.
Jerry.
-
Hi Jerry - I remember you telling me about how you did this when we met up :-)) and it did fit perfectly on your boat too. Wow that seems like such a long time ago now!!!
Another day and yet another jig - this time to get around the top of the long side rails. I needed to get this right as it would be a huge waste of wood otherwise. Both sides at the front were pretty much identical
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/16/IMG_3392.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/16/IMG_3393.jpg)
Which I cannot say the same for the stern as it took all day to get them right. This was probably one of the hardest jobs on the build so far.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/16/IMG_3394.jpg)
Anyway both sides are on now so the rough stage of the rails are finished so I need to shape them up when its all dry
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/16/IMG_3396.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/16/IMG_3395.jpg)
Doesn't seem like much but thats a full days work there!
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Hi All
I'm a bit chuffed this afternoon - the rail is finished and I'm a bit made up the way its turned out. This is one happy builder O0
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3397.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3400.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3401.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3402.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3403.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3405.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/17/IMG_3406.jpg)
I now need to have a good think about what to do next so I'll dig the plans out. I think I will epoxy the deck and rail to protect it first, then fit the anchors and spray the hull matt. I'll have to have a look
Cheers Mark
-
Hi All
I'm a bit chuffed this afternoon - the rail is finished and I'm a bit made up the way its turned out. This is one happy builder O0
Cheers Mark
... and very much deserved for the huge amount of effort you've put into it.
Agree that you should protect your build thus far Mark.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Thanks very much Ray - and your right I am going to protect it first :-)) I've been looking through the instructions and plans for the first time in ages. I don't normally get this much done so quickly but being furloughed does have its benefits %%
So next I need to make the scupper plates and alter the brass port holes for the hull a bit and then then fun starts! I can airbrush the metal plates a bit to try and dull them out. I don't know how that will go but you've got to try. Then a coat of matt poly and then onto the superstructures and I've a lovely piece of boxwood to make that out of :-)
Oh and I've messaged Simon at the propshop as the one supplied in the kit doesn't even have the hole in the middle >>:-(
-
Oh and I've messaged Simon at the propshop as the one supplied in the kit doesn't even have the hole in the middle >>:-(
:o :o :o :o
How did that manage to get past inspection {:-{
Just as well you didn't need it urgently.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Well I never did manage to get the resin on today as I realised that there are a few small parts that need coating too. So I had a go at making these instead so that I don't have to keep on mixing resin to often.
I started with the anchor windlass and looking at the plans it does not sit tightly to the forecastle deck. Its levelled out on a couple of small feet so I sorted that out first
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3407.jpg)
Then I made the other small wooden parts that make up the windlass. Its small stuff being 4x4mm so I used hardwood to try and keep the edges sharp. I also made the shaft support
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3408.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3409.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3410.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3411.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3412.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3413.jpg)
And whilst I've been typing this out I've just realised I've put the feet on the wrong side of the base {-) Ha ha I'll sort that out tomorrow :embarrassed:
I also made the bow bollard which is made out of 12mm ramin dowel. I wanted to change this to boxwood but I don't have a lathe so ramin it is! I did make a 15mm mahogany cap for it though on the mill and I think its come out ok. It also has a 4mm brass rod running through it.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3414.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3418.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/18/IMG_3419.jpg)
So tomorrow I'll sort out my little error and also get the resin on too
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Hi All
Just a quick up date of where I am - I've been spending loads and loads of time sanding the entire hull down top and bottom getting it ready for its final coat (ever I hope)
I've also been working on the anchor windlass - I started by giving the base a coat of dark grey and then a wash of black
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3421.jpg)
I then discovered that the windlass friction brake was not tapped out to accept the tightening mechanism to I ran a 2m tap down it
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3420.jpg)
And then I lost all of my photo's {-) So here it is finished %% I've never really tried ageing things before so this is my first attempt. The windlass itself is really nicely cast and I'm sure that with a bit of thought it could be made to work. I'm happy with it and its better than all of the detail being lost with it just being gloss black
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3425.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3426.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3427.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3428.jpg)
Then I had to dull down the brass/copper/aluminium band on the hull. Again I've never done this before so I did my best and I think it looks ok. Its no where near as good as some of the very experienced builders on here do but its my attempt. It also got 4 coats of matt polyurethane from the keel up to the edge of the main rail. So that is the final coat on the bottom of the hull unless it gets damaged.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3423.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3424.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/21/IMG_3422.jpg)
I reckon that its going to take a good week to fully cure but thats ok I've plenty to be getting on with. The plan now is to get on with the superstructure whilst this is drying :-)) Once it is dry I'll flip it over and probably spray the the rest of the hull. Then fit the anchors, anchor windlass, anchor chains, mooring bollards and the bow bollard. I'm pretty sure that I also need to make part of the deck removable for the motor but I need the superstructure built to see where the cuts will be.
Mark :-)
-
You've done well to get the windlass sorted Dave, I'm guessing you've done a fair bit of dry brushing to achieve the 'used' look on it.
Regarding the hull, you must have a load of patience to be able to achieve such stunning results - well impressed :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Ray - To be honest I'm never in a rush to get finished so time is always on my side. I've been very grateful for the last fews weeks though as its nice to get onto the superstructure
As for the windlass the only dry brushing was on the wooden base and I only gave that a quick going at. What I did was put all of the brass parts into a sealed container with a few drops of vinegar and salt and left them for 24hours. They come out all sorts of colours and I brushed them with a small wire brush until I was happy with their colours. The parts were still to bright once I assembled them, so I gave them a quick blast of very thin black wash to dull them down using an airbrush. It took about 30 minutes - thats it. Once dry they had a coat of the same matt polyurethane that I used on the hull.
-
Well, I have to say that the techniques you have employed have given a good result.
The markings on the gypsies are just what I would have expected using drybrush work, so well done Mark. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Mark, I have to smile when I see you say that other more experienced builders might do a better job. I find it hard to believe there are better builders-- the work you do is unrivaled. I love the little windless, it looks terrific! Your Anteo thread is very entertaining and instructive. (and inspiring)
Carl
-
Mark, I have to smile when I see you say that other more experienced builders might do a better job. I find it hard to believe there are better builders-- the work you do is unrivaled. I love the little windless, it looks terrific! Your Anteo thread is very entertaining and instructive. (and inspiring)
Carl
Plus 1
Amazing work
-
Lads all I can say is that I think we have some amazing builders on this forum and they all inspire me to try harder - but thank you :embarrassed:
Today I made a start on the superstructure which has two levels. The top level is wood clad so that makes things easier for me but the lower level is supposed to be painted white so I need to swap the plywood for solid boxwood so that I could varnish it. Now I knew that I had made a mistake when I installed the deck beams so I thought it best to check the fit first. I'm glad that I did as I was a mile off. Here's a picture of the scribed line of my deck and it does not match the kit at all. A simple fix but it had to be right as everything else follows and I can throw away the original parts.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/22/IMG_3429.jpg)
After sorting out the correct shape of the lower superstructure I transferred this to some 3mm thick boxwood which I could then fettle to fit as best I could once cut out.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/22/IMG_3430.jpg)
The apertures were cut on the mill and I've decided to leave the corners rounded as I prefer this look.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/22/IMG_3431.jpg)
And then I ran the sides through a thickness sander just to tidy them up. They are thicker than the standard ply - but I think this may help with the heat build up from the boiler
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/22/IMG_3433.jpg)
Now I know that I've made myself a load of work as I have to remake everything on the lower level but thats fine. I want all of the doors, vent covers etc to be slightly open to get as much air to the burner as possible
And as a bit of light relief I made the mooring bollards for the forecastle deck
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/22/IMG_3434.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/22/IMG_3435.jpg)
So what I'm waiting for is the hull to fully dry as I want to glue the superstructure together in situ as I want it to be straight and level as the rest follows upwards {-)
Thanks for looking - Mark :-)
-
Its been a great day today as the postman delivered this piece of 60mm loveliness from the prop shop
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3451.jpg)
And a few photo's to drool over - seriously I don't think you can buy a nicer propeller and the service is fantastic
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3450.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3449.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3448.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3447.jpg)
Enough of that {-) The scupper plates are now finished and ready to install once the deck has been sprayed with matt polyurethane
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3446.jpg)
And the reason for my delay in posting anything is because I've been having problems with the superstructure due to my own incompetence. I'm remaking all of the lower sections out of boxwood and thought that it would be a good idea to laminate them to the original plywood pieces. A great idea except the original pieces are all warped and this has carried onto the laminations. I'm working my way through this problem but its slowed me down. Its my fault and I really should have checked. A few pictures but they need sorting out as I've had to unglue much of my work.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3439.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3440.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3442.jpg)
Its an easy mistake but it can be sorted :-)) I also forgot to drill out the holes for the portholes in the lower superstructure! So here we go - 14mm holes through 3mm hardwood. I'm sure that most of you know this technique but just in case there are some new builders who don't know here's how. The problem with big holes is tear out when the drill goes through. It rips out the back of the hole splitting the wood so the solution is to use a sacrificial piece. All you need to do is very tightly clamp a scrap piece if wood behind the hole that you are trying to drill. You end up with a nice clean hole in your piece and the scrap takes all of the tear out.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3443.jpg)
My portholes from the inside which are nice and clean
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3444.jpg)
The scrap tear out - sorry if you do this already I just thought it may help someone
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/25/IMG_3445.jpg)
Hopefully I'll have what looks like a wheel house early next week I just need to get things straight
Mark :-)
-
Bonjour Mark,
:-)) Your masterpiece deserved this beautiful propeller from Simon (Protean Design now ok2 )
-
Well, it's a beautiful prop for a beautiful boat O0
As for the drilling holes - I've always had that problem but, not any more!
Thank you so much for posting your mini master class :-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Raphael and Ray - On my last build I used Raboasesh (I can never ever spell this ) props and they are nice...........but this one is on a different level entirely. Its lovely......a fantastic piece of engineering. It was £28 which at the time I thought this had better be good and it is. I won't go anywhere else ever again.
Glad I could help you Ray :-)) I've made so many mistakes making panels on the wheel house you wouldn't believe :embarrassed: I just need to slow down and start measuring again........properly %%
-
Hi Mark looks fantastic and thanks for the tip on portholes
CheersJohn
-
Thanks John and very glad I could help :-))
The superstructure is coming on ok - I like using engineers blocks when trying to make things square and so far its working
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3452.jpg)
This is where I'm at now and its starting to look nice. It is so strong at the rear I reckon I could stand on it no problem %% Its not yet sanded down as thats still a way off
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3453.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3454.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3455.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3458.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3456.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3457.jpg)
And so now for the big question - did I get my calculations (estimates) right regarding the position of the boiler. So first of all I popped the boiler into the hull. I had to remove the motor as it would not quite go under the beam on the centre section of deck. I'm not worried about this as this piece of deck is going to be removable
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3463.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3464.jpg)
I'm very very pleased with that :-)) :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3459.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3460.jpg)
The pressure relief valve is right underneath one of the bulkheads. Which actually is quite handy as I can make an escape pipe should the valve blow and use this bulkhead to firmly attach it too. Maybe even have the exhaust just in front of the funnel - I'm not sure yet
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/27/IMG_3462.jpg)
So all in all things are still on track. A couple of other things that I discovered are; the joint for the whistle on the side of the funnel will need to be moved as the models funnel won't fit over it centrally. I also need to extend the aperture for the boiler forward 5mm as the gas tank just won't quite slip in.
I've decided to leave all of this fettling until the boat is finished as its not really going to knock it about very much. So the plan now is to carry on with the superstructure and also get some polyurethane sprayed onto the deck
Mark :-)
-
That's just crazy beautiful. Playing around with her must be like Christmas every day
-
Bonjour Mark,
Have you also already planned the fixing of the servos and their adjustment ?
Oups ! Why dis I ask this, the answer is obviously yes !
And do not forget the whistle ok2
-
Thanks lads you are going to give me a big head {-)
I'm really enjoying this build and I'm now at last at that stage where I'm starting to see my efforts all coming together :-)
Today I've mainly been masking up ..........but the deck and a few of the smaller parts have had a coat of poly. I've also been building up towards the wheel house which is quite a pretty thing; well it will be when done!!!
I've also ordered a short piece of thin walled aluminium tube 2" diameter for a £5 as the funnel in the kit is plastic. I can't see that lasting long with the heat from the boiler. I also need to think about how I'm going to get enough air in the hull for the burner. I'm thinking about removing the wheel house floor and replacing it with metal mesh. And also leaving all of the portholes open and the windows with no glass. More things to think about.
Thanks again :-)
-
I also need to think about how I'm going to get enough air in the hull for the burner. I'm thinking about removing the wheel house floor and replacing it with metal mesh.
How about a smallish 5vdc PC cooling fan to give a decent air flow in?
Looking good Mark.......👍👍👍👍👍
-
Bonjour bfgstew,
Based on my experience, a fan, especially from a PC does not bring enough air to the torch. I would kindly suggest you to do like suggested by Mark, all the portholes opened and no glass to the windows if possible. On my crawler steam transformed, we have added eyelets on the deck with colander iron as glass, also painted in deck color to partially conceal them. Afterwards, the result is everyone's taste :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0wzhtRIwE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0wzhtRIwE)
-
Hi Stew - Actually that IS what I was going to do originally as I really like this idea :-))
I was going to put it underneath the engine cover with the hatches open........but the problem is space for the batteries. I'm struggling to get the receiver batteries in so I'm going to have to go with Raphael's idea and just have as many openings as possible. If the burner struggles I'll have to think again!
-
Bonjour bfgstew,
Based on my experience, a fan, especially from a PC does not bring enough air to the torch. I would kindly suggest you to do like suggested by Mark, all the portholes opened and no glass to the windows if possible. On my crawler steam transformed, we have added eyelets on the deck with colander iron as glass, also painted in deck color to partially conceal them. Afterwards, the result is everyone's taste :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0wzhtRIwE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF0wzhtRIwE)
Raphael that is such a lovely boat and it goes very well too :-))
-
Bonjour Mark,
Based on the Anteo I know, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrKd4jzpl30) I think/hope you won't have air problems, the hull is wide, deep and the openings of the superstructure large.
-
Never mind your head Mark {-)
I think the overwhelming feeling of being jealous is what I’m experiencing here. I don’t feel that way very often :-)) Quite exhilarating
-
Hi All
Sorry about this but this post is going to be quite picture heavy as things have been moving along nicely.
Firstly I carried on with the superstructure and fitted the wheelhouse floor. There are no location points for this big part so I drilled 3 - 1mm brass rods through once I was happy with its location. This made fitting and gluing a cinch and I removed them once the glue was dry
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3470.jpg)
In my quest to get as much air into the hull as possible I open up an aperture into the bulkhead as it will have portholes in front of it. Every little helps!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3471.jpg)
Next I had to remake the front of the superstructure. I only had to make the lower half as I will be using the top half
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3472.jpg)
And then I lost my photo's again >>:-( So here is the superstructure with the front fitted and also the port side corner curved edge done too.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3474.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3475.jpg)
Now I can't do anymore to the superstructure as I have run out of wood and I'm waiting on a delivery which I hope may be here tomorrow. So I got on with getting the hull finished. First thing was to mask it up and get a few coats of polyurethane onto the top side
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3469.jpg)
I then drilled the holes out for the anchor chains and also made some small canisters out of 6mm brass for the chains to drop into
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3465.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3466.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3467.jpg)
And then it was a case of putting it all together. I fitted the anchors, all of the bollards on the forecastle deck and the windlass and anchor chains.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3478.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3477.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3476.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3479.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3480.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3484.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3483.jpg)
I also fitted the scupper plate covers which hinge up and down
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3481.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3482.jpg)
And finally for today here's how its looking all together so far
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3485.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3486.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/29/IMG_3487.jpg)
So tomorrow I'll move up to the wheelhouse I think and start to get that moving :-))
Cheers Mark :-)
-
I see you are getting the hang of this model boat/ship building thing Mark . Very well done mate . You will miss it when you get back to work .
david
-
Fabulous work Mark. I love the closeups (windless knocks me over) and now I wonder what is the gorgeous wood on the caprail? When you make planks as on the deck or the superstructure siding, how do you draw the lines with such precision?? Or are all those perfect-fit actual veneer planks?
-cm
-
Hi David - I guess practice makes you better O0 I really enjoy boat building as you know and yep I'll be back to work soon enough!
Hi Carl - The cap rail is made of 10mm x 4mm mahogany which is then sanded down to its final size of 8mm x 4mm or thereabouts in my case. The hull is double planked and yes they are individual planks that are 6mm x 1.5mm. It just takes planning and quite a lot of patience to make sure that each one fits exactly. The deck was quite easy as they are 6mm wide planks glued over a false deck.
I thought that it would be nice to remind myself that this boat is actually destined for the water so while I'm waiting on a delivery of boxwood, I made a tiller and installed the servo rudder.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/30/IMG_3488.jpg)
I've also made the roof for the engine cover and pre-bevelled the apex edges where they meet at the top of the roof. This is made out of 3mm mahogany which is so nice to work with
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/04/30/IMG_3489.jpg)
And thats all I've done for today - Mark
-
Mark, excuse my one or two dopey questions about the deck planks-- of course I can see they are individual planks. But they are made with such precision. On the other hand, in the photos of the floor of the wheelhouse above look like scribe lines in the piece of plywood; this was the actual basis of my question. If those are tiny perfect planks as well I am astounded, and must wonder about the process you are using for making the strips and cutting them. The caulk lines are so even I think it took more than patience to make them. And if the grain lines up, it must be that you are making the planks one at a time and laying them in side by side....
I remember now seeing you bend the mahogany for the caprails so that was a dopey question too, but in the lighting and coloration is looks like some kind of burl or bird's eye.
Seeing the details of this work is very humbling. I am looking for my pie that says "Eat Me" so I can go aboard in person.
-cm
-
Hi Carl
Ah ha I now understand; and by the way on this forum there is no such thing at all as a dopey question. Its one of the great things about this place and why I like coming here so much. We all gain so much by members asking questions
The planks that you see that are marked out on the wheel house floor are printed on by the the manufacturer of the kit. I use these as a guide line but I never actually seem to line up with them at all. It would be just as simple to mark a straight line and follow that.
Now I am a very lucky man in as much as I own a Byrnes table saw. I cut all of my own planks; be them for the hull or the deck from quite big pieces of wood. It has a micrometer for adjustment so I can literally get any size plank that I want and its a pleasure to use. So that is the reason that the grain lines up! Its because all of the planks come from the same plank of wood. All I use for the caulk lines is a marker pen with archival ink and do my best to keep it all straight. If I start to wander I stop and start again as otherwise I would be scribing most of the deck.
As for the precision I found quite early on that all you need is a very very sharp miniature block plane. I have two - one is made by Veritas which is the smallest and the other is made by Lie Nielson and is a violin makers plane. Having these makes cutting them much easier and then it really is just practice after that and also keeping them sharp of which I've become quite good.
I also use a thickness sander which just means that my timber can be very versatile as once again I can just machine it to the size that I want. Its nothing more than that really but thank you for your kind comments on my build. I hope I haven't waffled too much
Mark
-
Must smile-- I have all those same tools (except micrometer fence on my little Dremel table saw) and I know how to use them, but....the results are not quite the same. %)
I never thought of blacking the edges of the planks...the glue line I thought would be sufficient. So while this looks Ok, it isn't the museum-quality of your Anteo.
-cm
-
Well at last my delivery of boxwood has arrived - So I've cut the 5.5mm x 3mm planks to finish the starboard corner of the superstructure
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3490.jpg)
I then have made a start on the engine housing using the same 3mm boxwood making the sides and ends of the housing
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3491.jpg)
I then glued the roof on which I had previously made and I think its turned out quite nice. It will be nicer once its sanded down to a finish
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3500.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3493.jpg)
And the inside of the housing
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3494.jpg)
This is what it looks like sitting roughly on the hull - its propped up underneath as it not yet finished
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3501.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3502.jpg)
I've also made the 10 doors for the engine housing - these 9 are a bit rough and need tiding up before getting a coat of matt poly once thats done. I've turned 2 of them over so that you can also see the backs
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3495.jpg)
Here's how they are going to look on the housing
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3496.jpg)
And this one is a finished example thats been cleaned up and given a coat of matt poly
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3497.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3498.jpg)
And finally looking down from the top so that you can see the hinges and the grating from above
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/03/IMG_3499.jpg)
So next week I'll carry on with the superstructure and the engine housing. I've had to order some small hinges for the main superstructure and wheel house doors as I've discovered that there aren't any in the kit. I'll see what they are like when they turn up
Cheers - Mark :-)
-
It's good to see such neat and accurate work, especially with the way your corners meet. Certainly makes me want to try that little bit harder.
Good photos too. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Cheers Ray funnily enough I really have been trying to get things neater and the joints tighter.....I must be getting there!
Today I made a start on the brass work on the engine housing. First up was to reinforce the roof underneath so that I could make the holes without breaking through. I also think this will help in the long run when things get knocked about a bit.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/04/IMG_3505.jpg)
Then I made the holes and the brass work which consists of 4 rails which oil drums are tied too and also a vert pipe all made from 2mm brass. Its awkward to be accurate on a sloping surface but I got there.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/04/IMG_3504.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/04/IMG_3503.jpg)
Lastly I marked out and drilled the 20 holes for the hinges that the covers fit onto, fitted the lower skirt and then gave it a good sand down ready for a coat of poly.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/04/IMG_3506.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/04/IMG_3508.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/04/IMG_3507.jpg)
Unfortunately I have run out of matt polyurethane as I used the last of it on the 10 engine house covers which are now finished and drying. Maybe I'll brave B&Q sometime this week but until then as the housing is just about finished I'll get on with the superstructure again.
Mark :-)
-
Wonderful progress so far.
-
Awesome carpentry! :o
-
KNO3 and Martin thanks very much :-))
I've been getting on with the superstructure corner but I also have so many little jobs that I need to do to make this boat go. The first is the issue of the steam pressure release valve which is located inside the superstructure. If this blows the hull and structure would fill with hot steam so I needed to find a way of venting it to atmosphere. Having spoken to my mate George we decided that the best plan of action would be to route this bypass pipe up the funnel. I tried this but I just could not get things to fit which is frustrating as this is the way I wanted to go. So I decided to go straight up instead which meant drilling quite a tricky hole. The valve is almost central to the bulkhead above it so I just went for it. I drilled the hole up to the deck through the bulkhead and also cut out an opening for the valve.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3512.jpg)
I then made a simple top hat kind of thing that will be permanently fixed to the superstructure and sits directly over the release valve. Should the valve blow the steam will go straight up and out and i can either leave this pipe proud on the deck or make it flush so that its barely visible
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3511.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3510.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3513.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3514.jpg)
And although its difficult to see through the door opening here it is in situ covering the release valve - and yes that is my blood in the roof!!!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3509.jpg)
I've also made allowances for the gas tank valve as it sits above deck level so I just simply had to cut a hole in the superstructure to accommodate this
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3516.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3517.jpg)
And I've also removed the union from the whistle pipe that was preventing the superstructure funnel to sit squarely over the boiler funnel
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3515.jpg)
I did pop out and get some polyurethane so I've sprayed the engine housing and I'm waiting for that to dry - Oh and my little hinges for the doors arrived and they are great. When open they are 6mm x 7mm and seem very well made too.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/06/IMG_3518.jpg)
Loads done and still loads to do - Mark :-)
-
Lovely build most enjoyable ,May i ask you your opinion on the varnish on the scale of the mode i/e matt/ satin/gloss, regards Allan
-
Hi Allen and thanks very much for you comments. Regarding the varnish I'm using Rustoleum matt polyurethane spray which goes on nicely but does take a long time to fully cure. I would say that it takes a good couple of weeks to really full harden.
Now although its called a matt varnish I would say that it dries as a satin finish but it looks ok. I guess I could matt it down further with a fine scotchpad but if I do thats a future job for me.
The last boat I built I gave a gloss coat too and although it looks very nice it doesn't have the real look that a matt coat gives to models. I personally prefer a matt finish but I know other builders who prefer gloss.
-
I got some more done today - firstly I've finished the other lower corner on the superstructure which has turned out ok
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3521.jpg)
And then the job I've been avoiding the fitting of the funnel. I've replaced the kits plastic pipe with aluminium tube and I also cannot use the kits mounting parts as its not designed for anything to go through it. So I made a couple of supports either side of the hole which the funnel fits in. I bevelled these so that they match the angle of the roof as I want this mounting to be strong
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3520.jpg)
I had to cut a slot in the tube to allow it to fit over the whistle pipe. This turned out to be a bit small in the end
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3519.jpg)
I then made a lower offset mount to set the angle of the funnel and secured it all with a 3mm bolt. Its nice and strong and more importantly removable should I need too. I also had to widen the slot for the whistle pipe and the mounting hole was slotted to allow a bit of adjustment. Its the same old problem of getting these things to fit around everything else!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3523.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3522.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3524.jpg)
Here it is cut to length and on the tug
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3525.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3527.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/07/IMG_3526.jpg)
I have no idea what colour I'm going to paint it so suggestions would be welcome. The kit version has the lower 3/4 in grey with the top 1/4 being black. I don't know what do you think? I could just do it white??
I think thats the last big obstacle I had to over come on this build to get it converted to steam. So hopefully everything else should just follow now. I've noticed a few modifications that I will need to do to the boiler plant simply because I just cannot get to a coupe of things. Nothing major just tinkering on my part. I'm going to start the wheel house tomorrow :-))
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Well done Mark, you seem to have found a practical solution to a not uncommon issue so, once again, very well done :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Great work Mark like the steam winch where did you purchase them?
-
Well done Mark, you seem to have found a practical solution to a not uncommon issue so, once again, very well done :-))
Regards,
Ray.
Thanks Ray I knew that this would be tricky just because of the size of the funnel and its going to be prone to damage. I didn't really have a plan I just looked at each step and took what I thought was the most sensible approach
Great work Mark like the steam winch where did you purchase them?
Ah I didn't - its part of the kit and its really nicely made. In fact all I seem to have used is the frames and the fittings but thats ok.
-
Hi Mark, what method do you use with the silicone pipe insulation, solder nipple, add nut, slide on insulation, compress, add nut and solder nipple. Alternatively make up pipe fittings, split insulation and slip over pipe with split out of sight?
PM Research whistle arrived Fedex 3 days from New York. Pricey but safe and quick. Insulation on its way from China. £10. Lathe on its way from Sydney. 3 weeks so must be pushing it in a wheelbarrow! Now perusing Chronos website for all the necessities tools etc. Second Christmas.
Jerry.
-
Hi Jerry,
A good source for tools is (https://www.arceurotrade.co.uk )and for taps and dies, > ( Tracy tools ) tracy do carbon steel taps and dies but the best is H.S.S. and not too expensive.
I hope that you are still pushing the peddles and that you and Mary are in good health.
George.
-
Hi Jerry it does sound like Christmas is coming early to you this year :-))
As for the insulation I tried various ways and in the end I just cut it lengthwise and then slipped it over. I did use a glue called Silpoxy to glue the joint back together by goodness me its expensive stuff. It does work very well though for gluing silicon back together. If you can find a way of somehow sliding it over or trying to compress it let me know. This would have been my preferred way of doing things
Happy building :-)
-
I'm not doing any building today as we are having a VE day BBQ to celebrate our Grandparents who all fought in the war and who are sadly no longer with us.
Here are a few pictures of the now finished engine housing. Its still a bit glossy as the poly isn't quite dry yet but I am pleased the way its turned out.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/08/IMG_3528.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/08/IMG_3530.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/08/IMG_3531.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/08/IMG_3532.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/08/IMG_3529.jpg)
Mark
-
That is really lovely work! :-))
-
I am sure your grandparents will be looking at your build and feel very proud of your achievements ,regards Allan :-))
-
I know I have said this before Mark how excellent your workmanship is, but Its just getting better, the skylights are awesome and food for thought for me. :-))
-
Well we had a great BBQ and I had an amazing hangover {-) Loads of our neighbours turned out too and its amazing just what a great time you can have even when socially distancing. I said that I would organise another one sometime in August just for the fun of it.
Tony, Allen and Phil thank you very much for your comments.
Phil the sky lights were actually pretty easy mate. Because they are square once the fence was set on my table saw it was easy to make 10 identical squares. And I think this is why it looks nice; its because they are all identical. The hinges are really nice too and very simple to construct as they are part of the kit. They are simply brass eyelets that are drilled into the sky lights and the engine housing with a 1mm drill. They are such a tight fit they don't need any glue which keeps them clean and then a 0.8mm brass rod is pushed through to make the completed hinge. I think Mantua really have made a good design for this :-))
I've started on the wheel house and it needs cladding both inside and out with 1mm x 6mm planks. I only had 2mm mahogany so this morning I ran it through a thickness sander down to 1mm. What a waste of wood but thats just the way it is I guess. Tomorrow I'll cut the planks and get going on it. I'll get some photos up as soon as I can
Mark
-
Thanks for the tip Mark :-))
-
I've managed to get some more work done but I've been a bit held up by another part. Ok here's the progress on the wheel house. Its a simple plywood construction that has to be clad both inside and out with planks. The instructions advise the builder to glue the housing in place and then plank it but this seemed like a hard way of doing things to me. So although its on the superstructure its just loose and I'll fix it on once the inside is done. The outside has been clad and I reduced the plank width to 5.5mm as it was a better fit than 6mm.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/12/IMG_3539.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/12/IMG_3540.jpg)
This is the part that has been holding me up a bit as its been tricky to get it right. The original is on the left and is made of plywood and my version is on the right made of solid 3mm boxwood.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/12/IMG_3533.jpg)
And it fits at the bottom of the funnel which is why it had to look exactly right
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/12/IMG_3534.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/12/IMG_3535.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/12/IMG_3541.jpg)
I've also altered the main deck so that the gas tank can slip in and out easily and thats it for now. I'll carry on cladding the inside of the wheel house and then probably make a start on the doors
Mark :-)
-
Hi All
A bit more progress - I've now planked the wheel house inside and outside so thats one big job finished
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/14/IMG_3542.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/14/IMG_3543.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/14/IMG_3544.jpg)
I have also completed the wheel house doors oh except for fitting the door handles. There are 19 pieces in each door and I quite enjoyed making them. I had to cut planks that were 0.5mm x 3mm for the front and back cladding. The door frame and inner window opening are 2mm x 2mm and working out the mitre cuts was fun with them being on the pi** so to speak
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/14/IMG_3545.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/14/IMG_3546.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/14/IMG_3547.jpg)
I'm going to make them opening but rather than try and make a lock I'll use little magnets to keep them closed. I'll make a start on the window frames tomorrow and also the handrail in front of the wheel house
Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark,
Fantastic build, are you going to put glass in the windows and doors?
I did one where I used microscope slide glass and some glass from old projector slides.
Gerald.
-
Hi Gerald - Thanks for your comments :-))
I'm not going to put glass in the windows on this build. There is a table in the wheel house and I want to put a hole in the deck underneath it. This is because I want to get as much air into the hull as possible for the burner. I also want to be able to let as much heat out as possible too. I guess every little helps but to make it resistant to the elements I'm going to treat the inside of the wheel house as if its outside and coat it with polyurethane
Mark
-
Hi All
Another update on the Anteo - I did some more work on the doors so I marked out the hinge rebates; cut them out and fitted the hinges and pins. I've also fitted the door handles and drilled the holes for the hinges in the wheelhouse so they are finished and can be put to one side now.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3551.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3552.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3553.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3556.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3565.jpg)
I've also fitted the wheelhouse window frames which are the same brass material as the brass work around the hull. I dulled them down and they also have a small 1mm x 1mm drip surround. I didn't like the way that I could see the plywood between the mahogany planks so I've also lined all of the window and door reveals to hide this. This is also just about finished so I can also put this to one side for a while.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3571.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3570.jpg)
And then its onto the bridge which is formed using 5 thin pieces of plywood. The problem is keeping it all square and straight the picture below shows one of the problems.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3557.jpg)
So I first made temporary supports for the side pieces to over come this problem and keep them vertical at 90 degrees. I only used a very small amount of glue as they do need to come off. It doesn't matter if the ply is damaged as its all got to be planked over anyway.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3558.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3559.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3561.jpg)
And then fitted the rest of the bridge parts {-) I'm laughing because it was so awkward {-) The corner pieces that were supplied would just not fit. I tried for an entire morning but no matter how I trimmed them they just kept on pushing the entire bridge out of square. This explains why I have seen a few finished Anteo tugs with what looks like a sagging bridge. So in the end I just made some as its quicker and easier. The only material I had was the wheelhouse roof so I'll have to replace that at some point.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3562.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3563.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3564.jpg)
Once I had planked the outside of the bridge I removed all of the temporary supports which did so a bit of damage but thats ok
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3566.jpg)
The completed outer planking
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3572.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3573.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/19/IMG_3574.jpg)
So the next step os to lay the floor for the wheel house and then get the interior of that complete and also the inner planking of the bridge
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark,
I now see how you can get so much done, you even stay up and build in your " JIMMIES"
Yo might have put some socks on!!!!!!!
Great workmanship and such fine detail.
George.
-
{-) Always comfort first George :-))
-
Just a quick update - amongst other things today I decided to give making a grate a go. I want to drill an opening underneath the captains table but I didn't just want to leave a hole so a grate seemed like the best way to go.
I think it came out ok - its made out of 1mm x 2mm interlocking pieces. Its not quite square but for a first go......well
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/20/IMG_3577.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/20/IMG_3576.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/20/IMG_3578.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/20/IMG_3579.jpg)
Cheers Mark
-
Mark is it is truly amazing the things you do. What a sublimely perfect project!
Carl
-
Carl - Thank you :-))
Well the good news is I am actually back at work after 8 weeks on furlough but lets see how long it lasts. This will obviously slow me down a bit but hey ho I've got to pay the bills %%
I've now planked the inside of the bridge and also laid the wheel house floor. I had to put a border of mahogany around the pear wood planks; not to be flash I just was 2 planks short to do it all in 1 type of wood. I like to try and use what I've got at hand!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3582.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3583.jpg)
I then drilled a 20mm hole through the floor which is directly above the burner and fitted the grate that I had previously made.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3584.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3585.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3586.jpg)
Next I made the box at the bottom of the mast which also sets its final angle after its been tapered to shape. I used box wood for this as I think it matches the ramin of the mast
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3587.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3589.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3588.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3591.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/24/IMG_3590.jpg)
So far so good :-)) The next job is to let the navigation lights into the bridge. If I had to make this again I would have fitted these before planking the bridge but hindsight is a wonderful thing. I think that this is now going to be a very time consuming tricky job. After that I need to make a load of pear wood planks for the deck and fit them. The plan is to make the wheel house removable after the planking is complete so that I can actually get to it to sand it smooth but I'll see how that goes.
Thanks all - Mark
-
Hi everyone
Well I've had to take it a bit easy this weekend as I'm back to work and I forgot just how hard it is to load and unload a car transporter 2 - 3 times a day. I'm so match unfit i can't believe it but I just need to rest and get back into it gradually; this is definitely a young mans game!
Anyway I've got a little bit done - Firstly I had to turn some blocks of pear wood into planks for the wheel house deck.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3593.jpg)
Then using RST's very timely reminder about nothing sticks to sellotape - I wrapped the bottom of the wheel house in sellotape as I don't want to glue this in yet. It would be far to difficult to sand everything down given the small spaces. So I planked around it with the plan to remove it later.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3596.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3595.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3594.jpg)
The sellotape worked a treat so I could then remove the wheel house and finish the planking
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3597.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3598.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/31/IMG_3599.jpg)
Sorry that there's not much to see {:-{ Next jobs are to fit and let in the nav lights and also make a start on the very tricky cap rail. Hope that you are all well and I'm off to bed in an hour as I've got a 3am start in the morning. If anyone tells you that cars aren't selling give them a reality check. We are so busy at work its just unbelievable but I can honestly say that I am very grateful for that.
Mark :-)
-
Non of your posts are ever fruitless. ALWAYS pictures of beauty, no duds :-)) I hope getting back to the grind doesn't cause too much burn %%
-
That pear wood looks very nice on the deck.
-
Its looking really superb so keep up the good work. If I may make a suggestion, at this scale the bridge windows should be glazed and it will look better. If you leave one of the doors open this will permit air to get in.
I have a steam powered model of HMS Velox from 1908 at 1/48 scale and to ensure sufficient air to the boiler I ducted a 6 volt computer fan using existing ventilators. This has worked very well and I have never had any flame out issues. May I counsel something similar may solve any oxygen starvation. With an enclosed plant it is also imperative to permit air to exit as well.
With a steam powered Victorian Battleship, Canopus 1899, it all worked in the bath but the burner kept going out on the lake. In the end it was oxygen starvation but why did it work in the bath and not the lake. The answer was movement as whilst all the cowling ventilators worked when actually sailing hot oxygen starved air couldn't float out due to the movement and eventually built up to starve the burner. Took the deck off and re-lit then it would stop again in 10 mins because the hot air released when I took the deck off! I just made some additional exit holes and no further problems.
Cheers
Geoff
-
Thanks all for the comments it really is appreciated :-))
Hi Geoff - when I first started this build I did have it in my head to fit a fan as you have suggested. I know that many people swear by them but I decided to try and not have one. This was after talking to several people who have had mixed success and also it’s just another layer of complexity within the hull. This is pretty much why I’m making all 6 doors on the boiler housing as opening and have the 10 sky lights opening over the engine too. If I combine that with all of the open port holes and working boiler house air intakes it should be sufficient I hope to allow enough air in and enough hot air out. I guess only time will tell when I get it finished. The nice thing is if I do need a fan I can retro fit it as I’ve got the room. Thanks for sharing your experience as I have no doubt that it will have many teething issues
Mark
-
I did have a fan in my steam tug (all windows glazed, but I leave some sky lights and hatches opened during running). It was useful when I used an alcohol boiler, as it improved the burning. With the current gas burner I found that the gas pressure drew enough air so the fan wasn't necessary any more. I have since removed it.
That being said, glazed windows really look better.
-
A small update from me today
I've been fitting the navigation lights which I've been kind of putting off just in case I got these wrong. But they seem to have turned out ok.
First I made the nav boxes which are just a simple case of glueing 4 bits of ply together
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3605.jpg)
Then was the harder bit - marking out and cutting the hole that the are recessed in. I had no room for error as I can't use any filler so it was a case of remove little and often and just keep trying the fit.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3606.jpg)
Then glue the box in place
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3607.jpg)
Then repeat for the other side
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3608.jpg)
I wasn't too happy with the way the ply looked on the inside of the bridge as it will be on show to a certain extent
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3609.jpg)
So as a solution I decided to make a small box out of boxwood (very apt!!) to cover it up
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3610.jpg)
Before and after
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/07/IMG_3611.jpg)
The next job will be the cap rail and the exterior trim around the bridge. That should pretty it up a bit
Mark
-
That's a good solution for the nav light boxes. As a bonus, this should block any 'back-light' as well - assuming that you intend installing working lights.
Looking good Mark. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
Hi Ray and thanks :-)) I've done the other side now so this job is complete. I'm not putting lights in this model but I will paint the inside of the boxes red and green - as we do!
-
Morning Mark........not wanting to throw a spaniard in the works ;)
I understand models of the Anteno all appear to have the red & green basic Nav Light boxes internally painted with the appropriate colours
Again, I understand the original Anteno was a pre WWII build in Italy, however I am not sure what conventions were applied under the Italian Maritime Regulations at that time
We have a few similar vintage Australian built steam tugs in operation and they have the Nav Light boxes internally painted flat black, with the lamps as the red and green coloured elements ...wether this was done to eliminate any reflection [back light]?......I am unsure
Had a quick look at Maritime conventions for pre WWII, however cannot find any clear distinction...Capt Podge has a few days under steam so may be able to comment
Derek
-
The Matt black came in with the 1972 collision regulations. Having coloured sidelight screens ruined the cut off angles abaft the beam. With Matt black no light is reflected by the screen so each light shows from right ahead to 112.5°. The lamps are special also in that the filament is vertical.
Jerry.
-
Hi All
I've not been working on the boat too much lately as I've been doing the workshop up a bit but that's just about finished now.
Anyway I've made and fitted the 8mm x 2mm cap rail on the bridge. I made it in the same way that I did the cap rail on the stern by making templates and assembling it off of the boat. It took a few clamps to hold it in place whilst the glue dried.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3615.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3616.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3618.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3620.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3619.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3621.jpg)
I then made and fitted the lower trim which took some bending! This is 2mm x 3mm and finishes the bridge off nicely
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3627.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3628.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3629.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3630.jpg)
Next I needed to paint the navigation light boxes - so masking up
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3632.jpg)
Airbrush the paint
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3633.jpg)
The results
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3634.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/04/IMG_3635.jpg)
Thats it for now - the next jobs are too make all of the doors for the bottom of the superstructure and also make the brass work rails.
Mark :-)
-
Looking good! I hope you'll put some working lights / led's in the navigation light boxes.
-
Hi KNO3 it would be nice but I won't be fitting any lights on this build!
I've now made the doors and shutters for the lower superstructure. Unfortunately I forgot to put the brass work and hinges into my ageing solution so I can't complete them just yet. The rebates for the hinges came out better this time - I guess practice makes perfect
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/06/IMG_3640.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/06/IMG_3641.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/06/IMG_3642.jpg)
I've also made up the railings in my usual way and drilled the holes in the superstructure for them to fit when I'm ready
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/06/IMG_3636.jpg)
The next job was to have a think about how to mount the superstructure on the hull. I decided to fit some 4mm brass rod into the deck which is supported very well underneath by pear wood blocks. These rods then slide into metal ferrules which I have epoxied into the superstructure. It really doesn't need anything else as its a great fit but I'll probably put a magnet at the rear just in case.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/06/IMG_3637.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/06/IMG_3639.jpg)
I now need to have a good look at the plans as I'm getting to the point where I need to protect what I've done so far with some varnish. I think there's a couple more jobs to do before that but I'll have a look.
Mark :-)
-
Hi Mark T, enjoyed looking through your post, lovely work you have put into her . :-)) .Cheers Brian.
-
Thanks Brian :-)) I’m hoping to get an update on here soon I’ve just not had much time to work on it lately. Maybe something next week O0
-
Hi All
Sorry for the very slow progress but I've a couple of updates at last. Following on from my last post the doors and shutters are now finished. The portholes, hinges and handles have been fitted and they have been given a coat of matt varnish. I'm not sure how straight they will hang but I'll find out soon enough. If they are really bad I'll glue them on shut.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3701.jpg)
I then made the lower trim for the boiler house - this has probably been the hardest piece of wood bending I've ever had to do. The boxwood either split or splintered so I just kept at it until I luckily found a piece of wood with the right grain that would take the tight bend.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3663.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3662.jpg)
I forgot to take a picture of the finished trim but it can be seen here anyway. Next I started making the upper deck supports which are slightly less than 90 degrees in angle.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3671.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3672.jpg)
And the supports get finished with an angled brace. I moved away from the instructions again as they suggested using brass but I preferred the wood after doing a few trials.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3674.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3675.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3676.jpg)
Next I made the base block for the mast which couldn't have been easier
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3664.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/19/IMG_3665.jpg)
Again sorry for the long delay but I'll get some more pictures up tomorrow. I'm just waiting for a few things to dry
Mark
-
I'm a bit lost for words with how impressed I am with this update but suffice to say those angle supports are top notch - great work Mark.
Regards,
Ray.
-
Again beautiful work! Don't glue your doors and windows shut, especially since you've built such nice hinges. It adds a level of interest to have moving doors and windows. Besides, having acces through there usually comes in handy later on, when repairing something.
-
Looks lovely, so does the workshop. Where’re the spiders webs? My spider will hold things steady if I ask nicely. He also runs off and hides anything I drop on the floor. Got one on the narrowboat too. Lives on the cctv camera that looks at the battery monitor guaranteeing I can’t read the dials!
Jerry.
-
Hi Lads and thanks for the comments :-)) I do intend to make all of the doors opening but getting the hinges in straight was tricky but hopefully it will work out. I've got some tiny magnets to keep them closed. Jerry we do get spiders but only tiny house ones not like the one's you get in Australia (thank goodness!). I've spent quite a bit of time getting the workshop just the way I like it. I like to have everything away as it saves having to dust it all off after a good sanding session!
Ok its dried now so here's some more pictures. I started making the bases for the boiler house vents which I want to actually work. To get the correct angle off of the top of the boiler house I used a long piece of pine wood. I kept on cutting the angle until it was vertical and then used this angle on the wood that I actually used.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3683.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3684.jpg)
I then cut the bases out of boxwood, cut a 2mm chamfer all around the top and drilled a 1/4" hole straight through the middle
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3685.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3686.jpg)
Next I cut some 1/4" brass pipe to run through the middle of the bases and cut an angle to match the inside of the boiler house roof
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3687.jpg)
Finally I glued the bases onto the roof and drilled through into the boiler room. Then epoxied the brass tube through the middle to allow them to work and also give me a good base to attach the stacks onto later
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3688.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3689.jpg)
Lastly I gave the inside of the boiler house a coat of epoxy a job which I don't like doing {-) Then fitted the previously made railings and portholes and gave the lower half of the superstructure a good coat of matt varnish both inside and out
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3702.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3703.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3704.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3705.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3706.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/20/IMG_3707.jpg)
The varnish has really enhanced the colour of the wood - I did miss a couple of glue spots that now look white but on the whole I'm pretty pleased with it.
I'll try and get some more up tomorrow
Mark :-)
-
Morning Mark
Awesome workmanship. Such attention to detail is inspirational and wonderful to see. You're a modelling Yedi Master.
:-))
David.
-
Hope do you keep the workshop that clean? It looks spotless.
-
Hi both and thanks for the comments :-)) I always think just build it as best you can and the rest will follow.
As for my spotless workshop I remember Martin saying that it was not normal to have a building bench as clean as mine {-) I have always worked very tidily its just my way, and as my workshop is a room in our home I need to keep on top of it. My wife says that making a mess is no problem whatsoever, but leaving that mess is!!!! Can't argue with that :-)
-
Some more progress - I made the little support for the tarpaulin bar that fits onto the bridge. Its 6 x 6mm block with a 3 x 2mm slot
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3709.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3710.jpg)
Next I fitted the navigation lanterns into the recesses
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3711.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3712.jpg)
Then epoxied in the safety valve outlet pipe which pops out in the deck above. I'm really pleased with the way this fits over the valve and I'll be taking my friends George's advice by putting an O ring over the valve to obtain a good seal.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3713.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3714.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3715.jpg)
And then I gave the top deck and bridge a good coat of matt varnish. I think its starting to look quite nice now
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3716.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3718.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3717.jpg)
I've also made a start on the interior furniture for the wheel house. As seems the way with me lately I didn't like the suggested table to I made my own design
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3666.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3667.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3668.jpg)
My little jig to make sure that the 4 x 4mm legs actually glued in straight and square {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3669.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3670.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/21/IMG_3673.jpg)
Looks ok to me %%
I can't put the doors on yet as the varnish has not yet fully cured and I'll only end up marking it if I do. So I'll carry on with the furniture and wheel house for now. I'll see if I can get some more pictures up tomorrow
Mark :-)
-
I think you forgot to add a nice taper to the legs :)
-
Maybe that's Chinese Chippendale? :-) Mark I have watched and watched and my jaw drops lower each time. I don't know how you do it. I have to say your Anteo build is the nicest work of boat modeling I have ever seen. Every aspect large or small is executed to perfection. Your excellent photo gallery has helped us see the real detail and care you put into it. I add my voice to the many compliments you have received and truly deserve. Amazing!
-Carl
-
Looks fantastic ,you really do deserve he comments btw what is your usual method making the railings brackets?
Cheers
John
-
I think you forgot to add a nice taper to the legs :)
Its not too late if you think it will improve things :-)) %%
Looks fantastic ,you really do deserve he comments btw what is your usual method making the railings brackets?
Cheers
John
Hi John I always make my railings off of the ship on a separate board. I find it much easier and then I can soft solder each joint together without any risk to my work. I also use power flow flux as I have found that only a tiny amount of solder is required when I use it. I hope this is what you wanted to know and thanks for your kind comments too.
Maybe that's Chinese Chippendale? :-) Mark I have watched and watched and my jaw drops lower each time. I don't know how you do it. I have to say your Anteo build is the nicest work of boat modeling I have ever seen. Every aspect large or small is executed to perfection. Your excellent photo gallery has helped us see the real detail and care you put into it. I add my voice to the many compliments you have received and truly deserve. Amazing!
-Carl
Thanks Carl - in fact thanks to everyone who comments as I find your reactions quite mind blowing if I'm honest. They just inspire me and I'm sure other builders to try even harder. The fact is I just really love building ships. I'll get another update on the forum in a bit :-))
-
If we all said what we think there'd be more comments than build O0
Carl put it well 8)
-
Thanks very much Andy that's really nice of you :-))
I've carried on with the furniture and fittings for the wheel house. These two instrument panels are attached to the wheel house wall just underneath the front windows.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3720.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3719.jpg)
Ships compass
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3721.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3723.jpg)
Ships wheel - I didn't make the wheel but I think Mantua did a lovely job of it :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3724.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3725.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3726.jpg)
And as per usual I had to change something {-) I really didn't like the suggested captains chair at all. It was a four legged thing with.a vertical back which looked extremely uncomfortable. So I upgraded my captain to a very basic copy of an Isringhousen truck seat (Trust me they are very comfy)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3728.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3727.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3729.jpg)
Here are all of the parts just roughly placed in the wheel house space
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3730.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3731.jpg)
And also with the wheel house on just to give an idea of what it will look like
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3732.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3733.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3735.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/IMG_3734.jpg)
So my next jobs are to fix all of these fittings in place, make and complete the wheel house roof and then give a finishing coat of varnish. Loads to do and I'll get another update up sometime next week as we are away for a few days now.
Mark :-)
-
Enjoying this one O0 , absolutely beautiful workmanship Mark T :-)) :-)) .
-
Very nice. But the wooden chair doesn't look very comfy without some upholstery.
And, why are some of the instruments on the floor?
-
Thanks Brian :-))
KNO3 - if you met my captain you would see that he's as hard as nails and would see upholstery just something else to clean {-) The reason that the instruments are on the floor is because he's got a hump back and can only look downwards - only joking mate I just put them there to see how things would fit; they actually are located on the wheel house wall just under the windows.
Here's a couple of pictures of the furniture now fully glued in place just waiting for the wheel house to be lowered onto the deck
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3737.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3738.jpg)
Ok now onto the wheel house roof. I thought that I had the timber to make this but I didn't >>:-( So first job was to cut 21 planks 6mm x 2mm to do the job. I'm running out of mahogany now so I need to get this boat finished!!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3736.jpg)
Then measured and placed the first plank as everything else follows this one
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3739.jpg)
Next I placed and glued the rest of the roof. I didn't bevel these planks as the camber is so slight but I guess you could if you wanted too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3740.jpg)
Then sanded it to shape
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3741.jpg)
Next I hit a problem - The roof has a drip trim that runs around its edge and no matter how I tried I could not get the tight bend at the front of the roof. The mahogany snapped every time I tried so I gave up. Instead I decided that the only way to do this was to make the corners from solid. So I did :-)) I cut the corners out and then glued them onto the corners
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3750.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3751.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3752.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3753.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3754.jpg)
Lastly I put the rest of the edge around and sanded it to a finished shape. I'm dead chuffed with this little detail and think it was well worth the effort
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3758.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3759.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/27/IMG_3760.jpg)
Next jobs are fitting the doors on the lower structure and the tarpaulin support on the wheel house. I'll try and get some more up tommorow
Mark :-)
-
What a brilliant solution you've come up with!
Can't fault your great woodwork - inspirational. :-))
Regards,
Ray.
-
It was certainly worth the effort because your roof and the whole cab looks very good!
-
Hi Both thanks for the comments - I wasn't sure whether it would work and to be honest they were very fragile until glued on. It was one of those punch in the air moments when it actually did work. I'll be happier when they have a coat of varnish that has soaked into the grain. I'm going to try and get that done this weekend.
-
I've now fitted the doors and the boiler house shutters. As suspected I had fitted the hinges on the doors entirely wrong and I just could not get them to work. So rather than remake the doors they are just glued on. It's a real shame due to the amount of work that went into the doors and the apertures but hey .......some you win, some you lose. The shutters open and close though so not all is lost.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3765.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3766.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3767.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3768.jpg)
I've also made the wheel house rail. The stantions had to be slightly bent downwards and one of them snapped on me. As I have no replacements I had to repair it which took longer than making the rail itself. It came out ok but does look slightly different to the others.
Work in progress
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3761.jpg)
The finished job
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3762.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3763.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/29/IMG_3764.jpg)
The rail does extend further toward the stern above the deck. So at the ends I've soldered a couple of sleeves that this extension can slide into when I get around to it. I now need to varnish the wheel house inside and outside. Then fit the doors (these hinges do work), fit the instruments and then finally fix the wheel house in place.
Mark :-)
-
Hi All
Another update on my Anteo. I've now varnished the wheelhouse inside and out and fitted the doors that I had previously made. I'm glad to say that they went straight on with no bother and open and close too :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3772.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3770.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3771.jpg)
I've also fitted the nice little spotlight on the wheel house roof
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3774.jpg)
Also the instrument panels inside the wheel house - sorry about the bad picture
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3773.jpg)
And finally the wheel house was glued in place permanently :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3776.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3778.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3777.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/31/IMG_3779.jpg)
Thats just about all of the big parts built on this tug now apart from the mast being made and the funnel being finished. So I'm going to start on the smaller details now and I'm looking forward to it too
Mark :-)
-
Very nice. It's useful not to glue cabs in place though, but to make some sort of device to hold it down. You might need access inside later on (for repairs, adding something etc). One can use screws or little latches, or even a few of those strong Neodymium magnets.
-
Hi All
I've made a start on the details of the build and I've started with what the plans say "water inlets"? They look just like hatches to me but I'm sure that someone on here will know what they are. The parts in the kit supplied were a plastic tube and plywood top see below
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3790.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3791.jpg)
I think these would be great it you were painting the model but as I'm not I had to remake these parts. I used boxwood for the top and a 28mm hardwood dowel for the base. I also used a piece of 12mm ramen dowel for the very top of the hatch. I thought it was a bit like making miniature toilet seats {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3781.jpg)
Next was drilling the 3 holes in the very top part. A 3.2mm hole through the centre and then 2 - 0.8mm parallel holes through the sides
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3783.jpg)
I placed some pieces of brass rod through the top parts when I glued them together to ensure that I had the correct alignment. These were removed once the glue had set fully
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3784.jpg)
Next the rear hinges were fitted and again I just used a small piece of brass to get good alignment
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3785.jpg)
And the end result looks like this complete with the hatch lock fitted
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3786.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3787.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3788.jpg)
Four units completed :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/05/IMG_3789.jpg)
So that's one job finished and they should look better once varnished. I'm currently experimenting how to get rope to fit nicely around the life savers which is proving interesting <*<
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Fillers for fresh water tanks? Fresh water needed for topping up boilers and for crew. The tug might not have distillation equipment for fresh water.
Jim
-
Fillers for fresh water tanks? Fresh water needed for topping up boilers and for crew. The tug might not have distillation equipment for fresh water.
Jim
Hi Jim - yes of course! That makes perfect sense to me :-))
Onto the lifesavers - I've tried a few techniques to get the rope around the edges. I've tried tape, small cable ties and small diameter rope. None of them worked very well and just didn't look right. I've found the best way is to whip them on using cotton. Its very fiddly and time consuming but I think that they look ok. I've finished the cotton off with a few drops of cyano just to keep it in place.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/06/IMG_3792.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/06/IMG_3793.jpg)
What do you think? One is done so another 5 to complete. I'll do a bit at a time in between other jobs
Mark
-
They look nice. You could write the ship's name on them too.
-
They look nice. You could write the ship's name on them too.
Thanks KNO3 that's a really nice idea I think I'll look into that. I'm sure that I've heard of a company that makes transfers for models I'll have to try and find them out.
-
Fillers for fresh water tanks? Fresh water needed for topping up boilers and for crew. The tug might not have distillation equipment for fresh water.
Jim
I believe some tugs had large water tanks fitted that enabled them to top up other vessels with fresh water supplies whilst in the harbour as part of their general duties, in addition to the pushing and pulling of vessels to manoeuvre them into position
-
This is absolutely correct DBS88.....
It is documented that our early Australian Naval vessels, when at anchor in Sydney harbour with shutdown/reduced steam capacity for [electrical] power and ancillaries only, and as such condensate plants associated with limited steam generation onboard dictated large quantities of additional clean water were required to be transported by Tug, or Water Tender
In 1913, our RAN acquired a 390 ton Tug Ripple and she served as a Water Tender to RAN vessels berthed in Sydney Harbour up until and during WWII
Mark
I went back to some old build threads to try & establish a displacement for the Anteo, and noticed a question from a 2015 Anteo build as to 'why are there so many water hatches on deck level?'.......well DBS88 has certainly answered this :-))
Derek
-
Thanks for the info lads that’s really interesting :-))
-
Hi Mark T , you can always learn something new , like the life ring idea O0 , The model is a credit to you.Cheers Brian
-
Hi Brian thanks for the nice comment I'm getting there slowly but surely O0
I've got quite a bit done so I'll put this up as two posts as its probably too many pictures just for one. Thanks for the suggestions regarding the life savers as they are finished now complete with the name of the vessel. In the end I used 2mm vinyl lettering from BECC which is very fiddly but they do look good.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3808.jpg)
Next I made the fire prevention water valves - there are 4 of them and they had to be identical. They are made of 5mm x 5mm boxwood and 2mm brass rod and when fitted to the structure they sit away from the sides only to be held by the pipework.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3810.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3811.jpg)
And for those that are interested I made these on a simple jig to make the job somewhat easier
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3803.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3804.jpg)
Next I made the cable rollers that are fixed to the edges of the superstructure. I shouldn't have had to make these but the brass fittings supplied with the kit all snapped when I bent them >>:-( So I started making the bases first out of 0.5mm x 6mm brass strip
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3809.jpg)
I then made the rollers out of 6mm brass rather than wooden dowel. I don't have a lathe so I drilled the bearing holes on my mill.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3814.jpg)
And finally fitted the rollers using 2mm brass rod
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3815.jpg)
I've got a few jobs to do now but I'll get some more pictures up later today
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Got done a bit quicker than I thought {-)
Ok so the next job was to drill the holes to mount the fire valves. I used the same template that I made them on for the hole alignment
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3816.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3817.jpg)
Here with the valves, rollers and water inlets fitted and varnished too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3823.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3824.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3825.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3826.jpg)
Now hopefully you will all know that I do like to share my disasters too %% My best one ever and I even have a picture to prove it. When I mounted the port side valve I drilled the holes upside down. Even though my jig clearly says "DECK" at the bottom. Here you go have a laugh with me {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3807.jpg)
I filled the holes with some 2mm dowel so I've got 3 white dots on that side of the boiler house now - Oh well these things happen and to add to it, when I applied some varnish over the repair I had a reaction which has marred the finish. I guess I must have left something on the surface. Not to worry if I can't live with it I'll sort it out at a later date.
I've now made a start on the boiler house inlets. I've swapped the suggested wooden dowel again for 12mm brass tube as I want these to actually work.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3820.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3821.jpg)
And to get them to fit onto the 6mm tubes that are already on the boiler house I glued in some 10mm dowel and then drilled out a 6mm hole
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3822.jpg)
This is what they look like at the moment - not too shabby
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3819.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/27/IMG_3818.jpg)
So that's where I am at the moment. The next jobs are to finish and paint the vents, make and paint the main towing hook and then I think I'll sort out the funnel. I want to completely finish the superstructure before I move onto the last jobs on the hull.
Thanks for hanging on in there with me - Mark :-))
-
So easy to hang in Mark O0 A feast for the eyes 8)
-
So easy to hang in Mark O0 A feast for the eyes 8)
Thanks Andy :-)) I'm very aware that I am Mayhems sloooowwweeesttt builder {-) Just a lack of time being away all week
-
Quality comes first
Don’t rush it you’ll only start another {-)
-
Hello!
Very clean work! :-))
Can be a reference for many of us.
Thanks for sharing.
Regards.
-
Hi Mark
Good to see the build ........I wish I was getting on as well with radio ham studies.
Really good to see. Well done .
David
-
Beautiful work again! And the life rings look perfect with the neatly lettered name on them.
-
Thanks for all of the comments - David good luck with the HAM radio I'm sure you will crack it O0
I've made a start on the funnel which has two white metal rings which need to be attached. So I drilled out the mounting holes
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3829.jpg)
And then drilled out the funnel and bolted the rings on using 1.6mm stainless steel bolts. There has to be a gap between the ring and funnel so that the rigging can be fitted later
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3837.jpg)
Both rings installed
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3838.jpg)
And the funnel back on the superstructure. I can't do anymore on this part until next week as I'm waiting on some brass to be delivered.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3839.jpg)
Next I assembled and painted the main towing hook. It was nice to do a simple job for a change {-)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3840.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3841.jpg)
I then finished of the boiler house vents. I know that they are supposed to be white with the inside being painted red. But I thought that this would look really out of this place on this tug. So I went for a copper colour instead which I think has turned out ok.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3827.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3828.jpg)
I blacked out the inside of the vent just before permanently fitting them on
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3842.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3843.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3844.jpg)
So far so good %%
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/04/IMG_3845.jpg)
So my next jobs are to finish the funnel and get it painted. The lower half will be the same copper colour as the vents and the top being black. I'm using heat resistant paint just in case! Then I've got 5 ladders to make and install so loads to do
Mark :-)
-
Which museum is she going in 8) fantastic
-
The copper colour on the vents fits your wooden superstructures very well.
-
Which museum is she going in 8) fantastic
%% Honestly Andy I can't wait to get this steamed up and on the water!
[/size]The copper colour on the vents fits your wooden superstructures very well.
Thanks KNO3 it was one of those things where I just had to go with what I thought was best :-))
-
Yes, don't be afraid to make changes and trust your own eyes and taste.
-
It’s a similar colour to my “antifouling”. I chose Rose Gold for its copper tinge and also because it’s all Bunnings had. Lol.
Jerry C.
-
Thanks for the comments both - The feedback is very welcome :-))
Ok moving on I made the vent pipe and support brackets that fit on the funnel
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3846.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3847.jpg)
I then moved onto the ladders - As I have a few to make that are identical I thought it best to make a jig. I cut some 10mm x 10mm blocks and placed them along a straight edge. I used the steps to create the correct gap between the blocks. Once the glue was set I was left with a simple jig.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3848.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3849.jpg)
All I had to do then was thread the ladder sides through the steps and solder the whole thing together. After it was made I bent it into shape and tried a test fit onto the funnel
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3850.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3851.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3852.jpg)
Once I had it about right I then completed the funnel by giving it a coat of heat resistant paint and fixed it place on the boiler house. The guy ropes are yet to be fitted as they will get in my way but I have fitted the lower mounts for them.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3863.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3864.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3865.jpg)
Next was the life rafts and windlasses for the wheel house deck. I made up the life raft bearing mounts out of strip metal as was suggested in the kit but didn't like them. So I made my own wooden ones instead.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3867.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3866.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3868.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3869.jpg)
And roughly where they live on the deck. They will be glued on once the tarpaulin rail is finished as they too would get in the way of doing this.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/15/IMG_3870.jpg)
Thats it for now but I'll get some more up over the weekend
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Why is the (safety?) vent pipe angled 90° forward?
-
Hi KN03 - Its not mate. That vent is just for show it doesn't actually do anything ok2
-
Hello!
Nice work! Smart trick for making up the ladder! :-))
Regards.
-
Just realised I can’t spell heirloom lol.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Mark......I took an alternate approach with the boiler steam relief valve 5/32" OD discharge as shown on the right of the funnel, and the de-oiler discharge 1/4" OD with standoffs from the funnel as shown on the left [both of these to the near extreme height of the funnel]....... currently, the orientation of the steam relief valve is on axis and facing AFT
The big issue is that the Ammonia content in Brasso dulls event VHT stove black gloss...so need to keep away >>:-(
The alternate ammonia free alternate polishes are fine, but a bug*ar to clean out of close fitting brass tube to black VHT even with your best toothbrush %)
What does the Aneto 2/nd Engineer find or do when he ascends the funnel ladder?
Derek
-
Hello!
Nice work! Smart trick for making up the ladder! :-))
Regards.
Hi KBIO and thanks - I did a similar thing on my last build so I learnt from that :-))
Just realised I can’t spell heirloom lol.
Jerry C.
Hi ya Jerry - {-) {-)
Hi Derek thanks for the photo, it would have been very nice to use the vent just like KNO3 suggested, but it would have been far too hard to do. I also wondered why this ladder was actually there? Who knows eh! It won't get any polish on it it can just patina as it gets older
Mark
-
Isn't there a steam whistle or siren on the chimney in the plans? The ladder would make mire more sense to reach these four servicing.
-
They need access to clean the spark arrester.
Jerry C.
-
Cheers Jerry I thought that someone would know :-))
I've made up the long Stantions for the tarpaulin support - A nice easy job; and then started to fit them with the support rail
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3871.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3872.jpg)
I then forgot to take pictures - so here's the finished rail, plus the windlasses and life rafts fitted. Also all of the ladders are now made and installed.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3875.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3878.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3873.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3874.jpg)
So this is where I am now and its really starting to look like a proper tug now
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3876.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/16/IMG_3877.jpg)
So my next jobs are to make the mast which looks quite involved. I can then get the rigging on the mast and funnel. All that's left then is to fit the life rings that I've already made and the ships bell and the superstructure is complete. I can then get on with the remaining jobs on the hull.
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Bonjour Mark,
I think the word "amazing" has been invented for guys of your skillness :-))
-
Mark your tug looks absolutely stunning ,can't imagine how it can look better than it does now but I know you will see to that no doubt and it has been an absolute pleasure following your build.
Cheers
John
-
Thanks Lads for your kind comments. I've been looking at the mast today that needs tapering and I do not possess a lathe. So I'm going to take the worst of with a plane and put it in a drill for sanding smooth. It's only a 12mm dowel so if I don't get it right first time all is not lost. I'll keep you updated as I get on with it :-))
-
Try it in a drill with a coarse file first, and then with sandpaper.
-
Hello!
I do exactly the same but I use a leather glove in the other hand to avoid burning . ok2
Fine sand paper grain for finishing and that's it.
Have a good day !
-
I’m thinking of a sanding station, the long one. Rigging a jig up. Perhaps carefully carving the top diameter on the rotating disc sander. Then make a jig with a hole close to the edge of a piece of wood clamped to the belt sander stop. Put the carved diameter into the hole and rotate the dowel with your fingers and gently push towards the belt. Move the block with the hole towards the belt in stages. When you get close change the belt to a fine grit one. ?????? Might take a few practice goes and fine adjustment.
Jerry.
-
Thanks for the advice all - funnily enough I've only just read them and I got the tapering completed on the mast yesterday. It took about 1.5 hours and its turned out OK. I did use a plane to take most of the material off and then used a drill and sandpaper to smooth it off. I'll hopefully get some pictures up soon when its finished.
-
Sorted.
Jerry C.
-
Sorted.
Jerry C.
Hi Jerry just for once it was one of those jobs that was easier than expected. I firstly tapered the mast using the above process but then it has tapered flat sides too. I can't really explain this with words so here's a few pictures of what I mean and how its coming along.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/18/IMG_3879.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/18/IMG_3880.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/18/IMG_3882.jpg)
I think it'll make more sense once its fitted onto the superstructure but so far so good
Mark :-)
-
I didn't realise the mast had to be flat. In this case planing is the way to go.
-
I didn't realise the mast had to be flat. In this case planing is the way to go.
Hi KNO3 - Yes the sides are flat bit the whole mast had to be tapered first. Its like a double taper if there is such a thing?
While I'm waiting on the varnish to dry on the mast I fitted the life rings and the ships bell too
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/19/IMG_3883.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/19/IMG_3884.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/19/IMG_3886.jpg)
The spar that the ships bell hangs from is supposed to go further out to the forecastle deck and sit on a tall support. I thought that this would be really hard to line up on a working RC boat so I cut it short. I took a leaf out of B.B's book and cut a scarf joint into the spar just in case I decided to extend this at a later date. My first proper scarf too! And in a piece of 3mm x 2mm!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/19/IMG_3885.jpg)
Back to work tomorrow so hopefully I'll get some more done next weekend
Mark :-)
-
Looks great Mark. Love the quality and craftsmanship going into this build.
-
Looks great Mark. Love the quality and craftsmanship going into this build.
Hi Rmay - thanks very much for the really nice words :-))
So today I have hit a milestone in this build O0 The superstructure is complete!!! Oh unless I've missed something {-) The mast is now fitted complete with the mast stays which are made out of 2mm brass tube.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3887.jpg)
I modified the rigging fixtures at the bottom of the mast just by soldering some rings around the parts
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3888.jpg)
A few more pictures
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3890.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3891.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3893.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3892.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/25/IMG_3889.jpg)
The aerial at the top of the mast is supposed to be quite a bit longer but if it was I wouldn't be able to shut my cupboard doors without bending it so I cut it short {-)
So now I can get back onto the hull and finish up the jobs that need doing
Mark :-)
-
What are the two white lamps on the mast for?
-
What are the two white lamps on the mast for?
I think that they are work lights for the wheel house deck as there’s not any others to fit?
-
mmmm ....
I think Calin may be suggesting the two white lights as installed and so seen from fwd & astern, in those orientations don't appear in this International lighting Standard %)
https://www.sailingissues.com/navcourse10.html
Derek
-
Interesting. All the images I can find of this vessel show these lights as you have fitted them Mark. The only variation I've observed is the height of them. Some have chosen to place higher than the funnel and some have not.
They certainly don't look like nav lights
an example of lower
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MPb043ieyh8/UYNSQr8S1SI/AAAAAAAAH5o/Hqn6q2VgIVc/s1600/Panart+Anteo+Tug.JPG)
-
This one does appear to have a white nav light on the head of the mast.
Excuse the music %%
https://youtu.be/Y086jS6Kp5E (https://youtu.be/Y086jS6Kp5E). at 48 seconds and better near the end.
-
I reckon they’re deck lights.
Jerry C.
-
Interesting. All the images I can find of this vessel show these lights as you have fitted them Mark. The only variation I've observed is the height of them. Some have chosen to place higher than the funnel and some have not.
They certainly don't look like nav lights
an example of lower
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MPb043ieyh8/UYNSQr8S1SI/AAAAAAAAH5o/Hqn6q2VgIVc/s1600/Panart+Anteo+Tug.JPG)
There are some really nice variations of this model as can be seen by both the picture above and also in the YouTube clip. I think it’s really great the way builders put their own spin on this tug.
I reckon they’re deck lights.
Jerry C.
And me ok2
-
Whoever built that must have sailed in Blue Funnel Line.
Jerry C.
-
Hi All
Sorry about the lack of updates but I have wasted entire weekends trying to make the main towing bollard <*<
I think I tried about 6 - 7 attempts to make it out of wood which is what I wanted and just had to give up. The problem was having to drill a 8mm hole through a 12mm dowel. I an just not geared up for this sort of thing at all. I needed a 8mm end mill to do this but I haven't got a tool that can drive a bit like this anyway. Here's a picture of just how hard I tried. I drilled a 8mm hole through the 12mm dowel which just gave loads of tear out. So I then undercut this to make it disappear but it became so weak that when I inserted the horizontal bar it just cracked and fell apart.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3909.jpg)
So after many lost weeks I swapped to brass. Even then I still couldn't drill the holes so I made them out of 5 pieces of brass and butt soldered them together. This is obviously an issue when building on a bigger scale. Its OK but not what I wanted
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3910.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3911.jpg)
Next was to remove the piece of deck in the middle so that I can get access to the motor lubricator. OK I've been putting this off for over a year but I had to do it so out came the saw %%
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3907.jpg)
What a cavernous space :-))
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3908.jpg)
The piece of deck is now held in place by a "U" piece that I made and I fitted the main bollard to this with screws and epoxy. Its really simple to remove and fits well so I guess I was over worried and should have done it sooner
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3908.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3916.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3915.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3914.jpg)
This is how it looks once everything else is on the deck
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3912.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3913.jpg)
You also probably noticed that I have made the bulwark stantions complete with fixing rings. These were a bit of a challenge as the mahogany is cut into a ""T" section and then scribed into the deck and capping rail - all 22 of them %%
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3925.jpg)
The next thing I made were the two rear deck covers. I did these in the same way as the engine house by using a boxwood base with a mahogany top.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3903.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3905.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3906.jpg)
And as an aside I completely stripped and rebuild the TVR1A engine as I needed to remove the brass bolt kit that I installed. It looks great but is not as practical as the supplied steel bolts. I'm trying to build some longevity into this boat and hopefully this is another step towards it.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/21/IMG_3919.jpg)
I'm really hoping to have this build totally complete for next weekend - wish me luck!!!
Cheers Mark
-
Well done Mark, it looks first class, I am so looking forward to see your finished boat in steam and on the water.
-
The build is looking really good Mark. Personally I think the brass bollard works well, looks the part. Best of luck this week getting it all together. :-))
-
The brass bollard looks great, better than the wood version.
Why did you change the hex bolts of the engine? I'm not sure I understand why the steel bolts would be more practical, since they wouldn't get removed often.
-
Thanks for the comments :-)) I'm waiting for some varnish to dry - which is still tacky over a week after applying. I'm sure its just that time of year so I need to be patient. The steam plant needs to be installed which has never been in since the planking was put on nearly 2 years ago. It'll be tight but OK
KN03 - The brass bolts were way too soft to get a decent seal on the steam tight parts. I found that they stripped easily and just could bot take the torque required. Just my experience and others have probably found the opposite. Also due to this experience and just how hard it is to get the entire plant in and out I just couldn't see why I needed to make this great little engine look better. I reckon its performance and reliability has to outweigh any atheistics.
-
I like the brass, it sets off the gorgeous woodwork.
Jerry C.
-
I like the brass, it sets off the gorgeous woodwork.
Jerry C.
Thanks Jerry :-))
Well its definitely going to be finished this weekend %%
I've now reinstalled the steam plant and all of the servo's, receiver and battery. I'm glad to say that it all went pretty much ok as I had to do a lot of guessing when I originally placed everything.
The gas servo installed which I thought was going to be tricky to do. If fact it just dropped straight onto its mounting studs even though its tucked well away under the forecastle deck
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3917.jpg)
Forward and reverse servo - also the throttle servo
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3918.jpg)
The steam plant installed and here is the only thing that I had to alter. The valves on the separator clashed with the engine house <*< I can't complain though if this is the only thing to get changed. I removed the wheels and had to move one of them forward slightly. The hole that was left was simply plugged so no real drama. The positive side of this though was I remade the exhaust and its now straighter than it was previously.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3920.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3936.jpg)
Here's a few pictures of the finished steam plant which I am just so happy with and all of the controls work fine too. I will fire it up when the boat is finally finished but I have lit the burner to make sure that the gas jet wasn't blocked. It fired first time in over 2 years so I cannot thank Nigel at Pendle boilers enough O0 . It's also been in the bath and I'm happy to say that it sits above its waterline so will need a little ballast to balance her out.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3938.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3937.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3922.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3923.jpg)
The prop shaft oiling tube to the left
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3940.jpg)
I'm pleased that there is no visible wiring which keeps it clean and tidy. The keen eyed amongst you would have noticed that the deck tall bollards have also been made and installed.
I'll leave you with this last gratuitous steam plant picture {-) As soon as I'm done I'll get the final pictures up
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/28/IMG_3939.jpg)
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Mark absolutely stunning and fabulous news about the ballasting, looking forward to seeing under steam.
-
Bonjour Mark,
Amazing job indeed, everything found beautifully its place, I have rarely seen such a tidy engine room ! You can refill the gas tank and the oil lubricator, empty the oil separator without a superfluous millimeter :-))
I can't wait to see this beauty navigating and singing on a pond ok2
A little trick to keep the bilge clean, I cut pieces of old sponge that I put on each side of the machine to intercept as much water and oil as possible.
-
DBS88 and Raphael thanks for the comments lads :-))
Until today I was honestly worried about the weight of this boat. Back when I started building it I did some rough estimations and I knew that I was pushing the weight of it to the limit. I thought early on that if its over weight - well I would have enjoyed the build. But to find out that it's all going to be OK was just such a high point for me.
Thanks for the advice about the sponge - I think thats a great idea and I think I'll use it too O0 The gas tank just pops out for refilling and literally takes seconds to do. Its been a great day seeing everything come together as I've been building this boat now for 3 years and 3 months which seems to be my average time {-)
Just a few more jobs to do tonight - then tomorrow its done and I'll get the boiler fired up and breath some life into her :-))
-
Indeed a beautiful plant there Mark :-)) ......looks realistic to the mind.....
What is the current all up [displacement]?
You did very well, with only a few minor tube work modifications......[also happen in the real world of ship engine room pipe spool building]
[/size]Looking forward to sea trials
[/size]
[/size]Derek
-
This has been an inspirational, epic build. One of the best bit of advice I’ve read is to treat every piece of a model as a model in itself. You’ve achieved this in spades young man. You can be rightfully proud of your work. In my opinion this build should move to the Masterclass section. Well done is an understatement. Looking forward to seeing you again when we next head down to Dudley whenever that is.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Derek thanks very much :-)) I've just weighed it and its 18lb (8.2kg) without water in the boiler or gas in the tank. I estimated that the all up weight would be 9.5kg to get it down to its water line. I've just put it in the bath and it sits parallel with its water line without any ballast but does have a slight list. Its sitting about 1cm above the water line so I estimate it will need about 1kg of ballast to get it down. This is great news for me as it will make it more stable and my guesses for weight distribution worked out well. I do tend to have a lot of luck O0
Hi Jerry - Thanks mate that means so much to me you actually choked me up a bit :-) See you when you get back to the Black Country!
Right lets get this boat finished!!!
Firstly the rear hatches were completed. Not much so peak about here really - The capstan was smooth so I milled the vertical slots into it to make it look a bit more realistic. They are held in place with 3mm magnets and its parent magnet is fitted in its own little holder just under the deck. They really are strong little things!
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3942.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3943.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3945.jpg)
Next was to finish the oil barrels - I didn't paint them I just made them a little brass cap and gave them a coat of varnish. They are held in place by a magnet that I recessed into the bottom and its parent magnet is glued under the deck.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3946.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3947.jpg)
And the very last thing to do was to install the bow railings
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3957.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3958.jpg)
So thats it %% 3 years and 3 months and 1131 images later we are done - I say we as I have received so much help and inspiration from this forum I just cannot thank you all enough. I have left some things off such as the rubber bumper - I just can't bring myself to glue it on. Also there are no cable rails over the stern as I think that they would get in the way of working the steam plant. I still need to make and install the boiler feed pump inlet and outlets but that won't take too much work. I'm going to fire up the steam plant later and I'll try and get a video up of it working if I can.
Here's the finished boat
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3950.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3951.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3952.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3948.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3949.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3953.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3954.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3955.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/29/IMG_3956.jpg)
Thanks everyone - Mark :-)
-
Totally lost for words but if the forum had a like system you would go off the scale
Bravo my friend 8) 8)
-
Bloody stunning :-))
-
Hello!
I don't know if I have to admire the boat or your work ?
Both, I would say!
:-))
-
Andy, Phil and KBIO thanks very much :-))
She fired up without any problems at all. The safety valve is set to 40PSI and works great and the gas regulator runs the boiler at 30 PSI.
It ran for about 25 minutes on the bench and was as sweet as a nut. The only problem I have found is a threaded nut on the throttle. I'm not sure if its the nut or the male thread on the throttle but I'll have a look sometime next week. Either way its no big problem :-)) I'll get it sorted out.
Here's some videos for you
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hObg1dsmZ70
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w3jnh2jMKag
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GyAbGwtL1pM
Cheers Mark :-)
-
Mark, truly inspirational, an absolute master class in boat building and steam plant engineering, I have learned so much from your build, thank you for taking so much time to photograph and write the build up for others to follow, it is appreciated. I look forward to your next build and wish you good luck sailing Anteo on the open water - all the best Dave
-
Hi Dave - thanks so much mate :-)) I can't wait for spring to come around and get her on the water. I need to join a club where they have a boiler tester so that I can get a running certificate but it'll pass no problem.
I've checked the poor joint and both the nut and thread look ok but don't seem to like each other. So I'll change the nut next weekend and put that one to bed. Its all cleaned up now from the test run which didn't take long considering the amount of oil I put on and through everything for the first run.
-
Hi Mark, I have just looked at your the videos. The tug looks beautiful and the engine seems to run very well. When is the maiden voyage scheduled?
-
Thanks KNO3 :-)) yes it all runs really nicely and in both directions too. The maiden voyage is unfortunately going to have to wait until the spring I think. This weekend I’ll repair the wayward nut and also make the inlet and outlet pipes for the pump. I’m just going to have to be patient then. I also need to find a club as I’m not a member of one yet. Hopefully they can help me get the required running certificate too. 8)
-
Bonjour Mark;
Absolutely beautiful; nothing to say about your skillness and the result.
A suggestion based on my experience, to use the torque of your machine and save autonomy, change the propeller for a larger one ;)
My 7,5 or 8,5 cm3 boats are coupled to 90 mm propellers, example : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIbGjiD36xU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIbGjiD36xU)
Other examples of 2,75" propellers offering +30%+50% of autonomy on two of my 3 cm3 boats : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVl2NCWmyXA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVl2NCWmyXA)
And two of them coupled to a 11 cm3 with two indepedant gear boxes : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CagA7tJTPrs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CagA7tJTPrs)
-
Why do you need a club? Can't you just run it on a lake, ideally without many people around?
-
You don’t need a club. The boiler is covered by the 3bar/liter EU rule. Clubs will have their own rules. Your house insurance covers your third party needs with a model boat ( not a real one) but nothing bad is going to happen anyway. Take it to Llyn Padarn Sunday mornings 1000, by the slipway behind the toilets. Group of old guys (me). A club with no rules or membership or fees or "xxxxx". Divers in club opposite will always help recover a stalled boat for an air ambulance donation. They’re dying off so need young blood.
Jerry C.
-
Thanks for the comments lads :-)) Raphael I need to have a bit of a play with this boat just to get the feel of it first. I'll stick with what I've got for the moment but probably change it around in the future.
Jerry - no problem I'll meet up and have a sail O0
So here she is ballasted down to her water line. It took exactly 1kg of lead and thats with the boiler and gas tank both full.
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/IMG_3970.jpg)
(https://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/IMG_3971.jpg)
And finally a video of her understeam - I'm sorry that the camera goes all over the place but I was trying to do two things at once. The engine runs so sweetly in both directions and she ran in the bath for 25 minutes no problem. The boiler feed pump works great too and I was surprised just how much water that propeller moves - wow!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaFeuyBk524
So it's going into hibernation now until the spring and we get our freedom back. Thanks for watching :-))
Mmm time to start a new build ;)
-
Mark looks absolutely wonderful, a credit to you, I look forward to the spring when you can finally set the boat free on the open water. Good luck with your next build, whatever it may be - hopefully steam?
-
Magnificent 8)
-
Thanks Lads - I must be honest I've been playing with it all morning. It just purrs and the engine has more torque than I thought it would once in the water. I've no steam leaks now but I have found that the edge of the deck just above the engine has warped just very slightly. It must be down its first meeting of heat rising from the engine. I think I'll glue some stiffeners underneath just to help it along a bit.
David - this will probably be the last working boat that I make. This is the boat that I've always wanted and I've made it now. I've also discovered that its the building that I enjoy the most. Having said that it would be nice for us all to meet up and have a sail - roll on Wicksteed!
-
Superb!
-
Lovely!
And no traces of oil in the bathtub! :-))
Bravo Mark!
-
Bonjour Mark,
Great bathtub indeed :-)) More seriously, what a beautiful singing tugboat ! About the propeller, listening to the machine full ahead, no problem to change it but not mandatory, you have a water pump.
Little question, which was the service pressure for this test ?
You will have a huge success when you navigate on a pond, I can't wait to see her there (give the camera to a friend ok2 [size=78%]).[/size]
-
Mark, I do hope to meet you at Wicksteed next year and admire the boat close up ( as it were)
:-))
-
Thanks for the comments
KBIO - My wife was also very pleased about this :-)) {-)
Raphael - Thank you my friend :-) The boiler was regulated to 30PSI which seemed to be about right and the pressure relief valve was set to 40PSI and it never blew. I have been to Paris so many times because of my truck driving especially to Chilly Mazarin, Rungis and Orly that my wife has suggested that when everything opens up again we should travel to France and meet up. Could make a good YouTube video :)
-
Mark, I do hope to meet you at Wicksteed next year and admire the boat close up ( as it were)
:-))
Phil - That would be great mate. We know so many people on here but have never met look forward to it :)
-
Bonjour Mark,
I would be very happy to meet you there, I am sure you know my suburb, the "bois de Vincennes" and its two lakes (Daumesnil and Minimes).
-
Bonjour Mark,
I would be very happy to meet you there, I am sure you know my suburb, the "bois de Vincennes" and its two lakes (Daumesnil and Minimes).
Yes I do know that area but not that well - I could tell you a very funny story about getting in trouble with the Gendarmes in Rueil-Malmaison. My friend and I Jim took the wrong road and completely blocked the place off with our trucks. Funny now but not at the time :-)) Lets hope that life gets back to normal O0
-
Thanks for the comments on my Stuart. It’s keeping me sane during my captivity here. I never doubted your tug would perform. Those little engines are little belters for their size and beautifully made. One little tip, make doubly sure the ahead/astern lever cannot exceed its limits if you’ve turned the notched column around. If it does the sleeves on the valve rods will come adrift and stop the engine. It happened to me. I ordered a new one from Graham and he sent half a dozen gratis. Only problem with him, he don’t communicate. We’llgo for a sail together near the Black Country Museum, Wear needs a good run. I don’t get to Llanberis any more cos we don’t have a car now, we hire one for special occasions. There’s one think missing that every tug needs. Google pudding fenders. All the best, see you when we can. Stay safe mate.
Jerry C.
-
Top marks, she's a stunner Mark T , thanks for sharing :-)) .
-
Hi Mark been following this beautiful build from the start and I say what a splendid model .many thanks for the many detailed posts along the way
Congratulations
John
-
Top marks, she's a stunner Mark T , thanks for sharing :-)) .
Thanks Brian I just cannot wait to sail her. I've fired the boiler up a few times and it runs beautifully. It reminds me of a very reliable car for some reason!
Hi Mark been following this beautiful build from the start and I say what a splendid model .many thanks for the many detailed posts along the way
Congratulations
John
Thanks John - It sits on my window sill at the moment and I still look at it and just think how much enjoyment I got from building it. My wife really like this one too so thats an approval if ever I've had one {-)
-
“My wife really like this one too” WOW high praise! Don’t know if any of us can achieve that lofty goal twice in a lifetime {-)
Seriously great work. Was a fun build to follow.
-
If the model is sitting on the window sill for any length of time, beware of sunny weather and turn the model regularly to avoid fading on one side.
Obviously, you'll be sailing her at the earliest opportunity. :-))
Ray.
-
If the model is sitting on the window sill for any length of time, beware of sunny weather and turn the model regularly to avoid fading on one side.
Obviously, you'll be sailing her at the earliest opportunity. :-))
Ray.
Ha ha Ray you are spot on! I turn it around every week how sad am I {-) The trouble is I've no where else to put it at the moment!
-
“My wife really like this one too” WOW high praise! Don’t know if any of us can achieve that lofty goal twice in a lifetime {-)
Seriously great work. Was a fun build to follow.
Cheers Ray - I was amazed when she told me - mind you I've annoyed her ten fold since so normal service has resumed in my house. Honestly no one else could put up with me she deserves a medal and a fantastic holiday!
-
Ha ha Ray you are spot on! I turn it around every week how sad am I {-) The trouble is I've no where else to put it at the moment!
Aha, not so sad at all mate - I did exactly the same thing with one of mine - and the paint work is still good after 20 years! :-))
-
Hello Mark,
the words like chapeau, class, perfect and great documentation are not enough to mention here again. I would also like to thank you personally for this great achievement that you have accomplished here.
As already described in my introduction "I'm new here - hello dear model building friends", you are the inspiration to build it up in nature based on your great documentation.
Enough written. The kit is waiting.
Greetings Ralf
-
Hello !
I took a real pleasure to follow up your building Mark! :-)
I've learn something too !
Thanks for sharing and wish you a good sailing as soon as the weather allows it !
Regards.
-
Thanks lads :-)) It got a really good clean today :-))
As its completely water proof all I had to do was strip it down and put the parts under the bathroom shower. Its come up like new {-)
I've contacted my local boat club so hopefully she will be sailing soon. I'm just waiting for a reply and hopefully they will allow steam.