Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Seaport Tugs => Topic started by: 6705russell on October 11, 2007, 07:56:31 am
-
Hi all,
I have just bought a Dickies tug to use as a rescue boat, has anybody bought one of these and revamped/rewired it?
Russ
Topic name changed - Admin.
-
Hi Russ,
If you have a look under the Builds section of the main mayhem site, you'll find a good example of a conversion that has been done.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/My_models/31%20Dickie.htm
Terry.
-
Martin, thanks for the link, did you do any re-spraying on your boat? Was it easy to remove the stickers etc?
Cheers
Russ
-
My boat still looked like it had just come out of the box when I had finished.
I think the stickers should come off with the aid of a hair dryer and a bit of
patience ....
-
I'm just finishing off a Dickie conversion and plan to post photographs in a couple of weeks.
I followed Martin's conversion in respect of the rc upgrade and changed the receiver, esc and rudder servo. Power comes from a 6V, 4Ah sealed lead acid battery.
As far as the externals are concerned I must admit that I got a bit carried away and stripped everything off the deck and built a new accomodation structure and moved it forward quite a lot so that it looks more like a modern tug. I sprayed the lower part of the hulll with red ochre undercoat and the upper part with satin black. Having seen photographs of tugs with the decks and accommodation areas finished in the red ochre undercoat colour, and having liked it, I also did those of the Dickie the same. The stickers came off very easily and I used lighter fuel to remove any residue.
The deck crane, inflatable dinghy, mast assembly, front fender and tyre fenders were not reused. I have built a new, much simpler mast, which is now painted yellow, a radar assembly and radio mast. I have reused the wheelhouse, two cable reels/winches, the liferaft canisters and the ladder.
I'm now building some new railings which is just about the last thing I have to do. I've carried out a bath test and ballasted where necessary and it does seem fairly stable.
If the weather is suitable, railings or not, I shall probably sail it for the first time at my local club this weekend. I'll try and take some photos and post them with the others.
-
My attempt and my Dads.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/Modellers2/Kim-Tomlinson/1ndex.htm
-
Very nice Tom, any chance of bringing them to Westport Sunday morning?? They look very good!
Russ
-
Here's a quick shot of my conversion. Just a few more things to do before it's finished.
-
Wow Meridian, that looks great! I think you're going for the title "best conversion ever"! Please keep the pictures coming , you too Russ. I have one of these too, took off a lot of things, painted the hull and added lights, new railings. The most importend mod i think was to add ballast to make her more stable and doing so you must extend the air outlets from the ballast tank out on deck, otherwise they will pump in water to the hull if the seas get rough( been there!). I also maneged to make the aft winch retractable, just cant explain how in a foreign language :embarrassed:Isn't it amazing how popular this "toy boat" still is, I for sure still love mine.
Good luck to you.
-
Meridian/Hama,
You have done a good job on your boats, are you using the ballast tank still or have you removed them?
Thanks
Russ
-
Hi Russ,
I blanked off the water inlets inside the bottom of the hull, modified the ballast tank and it is now used to house the 6V battery. It's almost like it was made for it!
Andrew
-
Any chance of any more pictures Andrew?
Russ
-
Russ,
Will try and take a few more later today.
Andrew
-
Just a few more shots showing a bit more detail.
It's almost finished - just the railings, some lights (non working) on the mast and a winch bollard and that's about it. I may put some scale tyre fenders on, but I'm not too sure about that at the moment.
Andrew
-
are these things still available as i have looked on e-bay but cant find one ,also used google and it came up with them from rc hobby
http://www.rchobby.co.uk/harbour_work_boat.html
with a price ticket of £90 which seams excessive compaired to the prices mentioned on the forum.
daz
-
are these things still available as i have looked on e-bay but cant find one ,also used google and it came up with them from rc hobby
http://www.rchobby.co.uk/harbour_work_boat.html
with a price ticket of £90 which seams excessive compaired to the prices mentioned on the forum.
daz
Judging by previous correspondence on here rchobby should be avoided at all costs.
Martin - Admin
This boat appears to have been replaced with the Dickie RC Navy Boat which could be converted to a tug with a little bit of work. 2'-0" long and £49.95 plus battery for Tx.
http://www.otherlandtoys.co.uk/dickie-rc-navy-boat-p-1097.html
O0
-
didn't say i would buy from the Dicky it was just where i could only find them for sale :)
if there was on cheep it would be usefull as a have a go boat for the goole club to use at events i let them use the carlson and the southampton tugs at the moment so another one would be great as they are popular with the kids .
daz
-
Apart from what I've read, I know nothong about RC Hobby, but I certainly wouldn't pay more than around £30 - £35 for one. That's what I paid earlier this year from a dealer on ebay. Howes Model Shop is currentlay advertising them for £29.99, which is more like it!
www.howesmodels.co.uk
Andrew
-
My apologies, Andrew is right, Howes do have them for £29.99
http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/RadioControl/viewProducts.php?SubCatID=96
O0 :embarrassed:
-
Thats where i had mine from, i think they have 3 left?
Russ
-
I got both mine on e-bay for £19.99
But they are now called Seaport Workboat (non on at moment)
-
http://community.webshots.com/album/552857696oeNxvJ?vhost=community&start=24
-
Tom, nice pictures, did you have to key the original paintwork or just overspray?
Russ
-
Did have to key it as the original is very shiny
-
thanks Dickie / Meridian
been on the site this aft and ordered one should be fun O0
daz
-
Keep us posted Daz on the rebuild, mine should arrive Monday/Tuesday from Howes, i will be using mine for a spare just in case anything should happen to my other ships!
Looks a good model to strip down and do all kind of things with.
Russ
-
Ok made a start on transforming the toy workboat into something scale looking, ripped all the electronics out, replaced the motor with a standard 540 for now, need to cut out the ballast tank so the battery sits lowerand started to spray once i had rubbed down.
I like this boat because you can access all parts and you can put a detailed cabin interior in as well and theres plenty of room for a decent pump for the monitors.
Russ
-
A couple more pics O0
Russ
-
Aerosols, 3 coats of primer and 3 coats of final colour O0
-
Which primer, it's rather a shinny plastic?
-
Rubbed right down with wet and dry and then red oxide primer and Halfords matt black for the hull, Halfords again for the deck and wheelhouse.
Russ
-
Ha been out today ,took the wife shopping and what should turn up ,ME TUG !! from howes .
parcel people would not leave it with next door so had to ring them up and get authorisation from howes so they can leave it with next door as we are out tomorow as well .Good thing realy as i supose a naughty neighbough could say they didnt recieve it .
Oh well daz
-
This was the first RTR boat that i have worked on to be honest, i had a bit of a mishap down at the lake the other week and i just neede a small vessel to push/pull anothger ship back to dry land, working on this tug i found that there is plenty of scope for auxillarys such as pumps,lighting etc. What i was going to do was to fit a bow thruster so before i drilled the hull i drilled a test hole in the deck (hidden) but found that the plastic was to hard and it cracked slightly so did not bother with the thruster.
Just started to add a few lights O0
-
I used the fitted prop, what are other people using these days with your Dickie Tug?
-
I retained the original motor and prop. and have found them both to be more than adequate. The motor is a little noisy, but I can live with that.
-
I kept the existing prop/shaft because i found the plastic is to brittle to work with so it might of split the hull if i tried to remove it, i changed the motor and installed an Mtroniks 20 amp speed controller.
Russ
-
I put in a new shaft and brass prop, had no problems works well..............
Roy
-
ah-ha got it this morning ,unfortunatly i will have to wait till late to atack it for conversion .
till then .
daz
-
mmm mine was going to be a qiuck rub down and respray :D Now im fitting the deck/worklights, working fire monitor and started to make a new mast array!
-
Added two switches, one controls spotlight and nav lights and the other controls the work/deck lights.
Russ
-
Nice paint job Russ. It's looking good
Ken
-
Thanks Ken O0
-
Are you going to try a little gentle weathering?
-
looks good russ :)
Meridian, apart from the radio gear, some of the running equipment in RTR's such as motors and rudder servos are not actually that bad, just the speed controller and rx seem to be the bits that let things down
-
Martin, yes it would probably look well with a bit of weathering, when i get time though, too many projects on the go at the minute.
Ghost, i stripped everything out apart fromt the prop and shaft, didnt like the look of the gear installed, dont think i could trust it and the transmitter supplied was very toy looking! O0
-
looks good, just needs the mast now :)
-
Hi Ghost,
Yes, I've retained the motor and it isn't too bad at all. I decided to replace the rudder servo because I had a spare one. On balance, depending on the type of rudder servo supplied I think it's better to put in one of the 'branded' ones, for the sake of reliability more than anything else. I would always replace the receiver and esc. May have a go at a 'baby seven' from the RLNI soon.
Meridian
-
Took mine out for test it tonight and it sailed well, the prop seems to make a bit of noise but i can live with that.
-
Well that looks alright don't it! O0
-
looks tidy Russ :)
-
Thanks guys O0
-
Someone might pick this one up off ebay cheaply.....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220166931645&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123
-
Done the conversion on my dickie with help from Martin's pictures (thanks Martin).will have to replace the prop shaft/tube as the one fitted knocks a bit .
Dont know whi you cant get your battery out Martin for charging ,mine comes out easy even with the velcro grip .apart from that i think i read on another post that SLA batterys should be charged upright ? .
daz
-
Any pictures Daz? Mine also as this noise which i think is the coupling between motor and shaft?
-
i did have some taken last week but they got deleted by mistake . Not done anything special to the appearance yet apart from a new toggle switch for the on/off .
just thought i would get it on the water first ,mind you i did leave the bit of concrete in and i think i will have to remove that as it's a bit bow heavy.
This post is taking ages for me to write as the "tick off" animation is doing me head in looks like cartman form southpark .
Right back to the post ,i will take it to the pond this weekend for another run and have the camera ready maybe a little towing .
But as for any mods my time at the moment is taken up with model slipway's Dutch River ,well thats what i may call mine ,but theres another post for the future .
daz
-
Nice pictures Daz! Definately didnt have that kind of weather at my end today! Are you going to give it a different colour scheme?
-
in time it might get a re vamp especialt the wheel-house and get rid of the rest of those stickers .
My intention is to use it as a have-a-go-boat for club events so i wont spend too much time .
daz
-
just rip the stickers off, the actual superstructure isnt that bad for a cheap toy
-
tried that ,then had to refer to the post on sticker residue removal . as for the wheel-house i think just a coat of paint ,and get rid of that life raft it's ram well that's what my niece would say :).
daz
-
well when I removed the stickers off my lidl yacht, the residue was removed with wd40! spray on and watch the residue disolve. also turps helps. rince off well after and you may be able to paint it
-
Hi Folks!
After reading the posts on this thread, and having two club members with these boats, I decided to take the plunge. Ordered from Howes on Saturday, arrived Tuesday morning. Now Thursday morning, tug stripped down to basic parts, the only problem one of the forrard deck screws was burred over, so had to be drilled out to remove the deck! All radio gear stripped out as per Martin's instructions, proper servo installed, rx and SC tested but not as yet secured, whilst I work out where I want to put them for easy access. Thanks to all for your posts and comments, I would probably not have added this model to my tug collection without your advice.
Danny
-
hi Danny i hid all the gubbins under the wheel house ,it looked like a pile of spaghetti so to thought i had best hide it
daz
-
Well I to have succumbed to the dark side and have just ordered a Seaport Workboat from Howes.
Been brainwashed, cant stand tugs. >>:-( ::) :embarrassed:
-
Hi Daz
Thanks for that, it's probably what I will end up doing too! Being a pauper pensioner, I've got to watch the pennies, so rx and SC's have to double up, for whatever boats I wish to sail! Consequently, I don't want to have to derig the whole boat every time. Four screws, plus the funnels shouldn't be too bad though.
As I have a couple of other tugs that were Alexandra Towing Company, I thought at some stage I may paint this one up to match, what do you think? Black hull, tan superstructure, white wheelhouse, and buff funnels, same as my Joffre, and similar to Alfred (Tyne Models version) I may do a re-design on the mast too, supplied one looks a bit "naff" to me, and easily broken.
Danny
PS Being ex RN Dickie, I thought I would "do" warships and tugs, the latter had always fascinated me, but couldn't get on with warships! Now limit myself to tugs and small yachts. Welcome to the world of "working" boats!
-
I ended up replacing the shaft and coupling and it now runs silent.
-
Hi Danny
All my models have been warships up to now so this will make a change.
I notice that in the adverts they say this runs on 9.6v, but I see most of you run on 6v LA. I take it they run ok ? :-\
-
When you dismantle the tug you will find a ballast tank inside with small flood slots in the hull, i removed the top half of the ballast tank sealed the flood slots and sat the 6v battery in here so it is low down in the hull, i still fitted a couple of stabilisers though and she is very stable in rough water.
Russ
-
thats an idea ,to remove the water tank all together .didn't think of that one :(
i left mine in (as martin's destructions said) therefore the 6v battery sits on top of that,and it can still be removed
I did try the tug without the lump of concrete for ballast but put it back as there was a bit to much wobble ,maybe a bit more lead down there to replace the ballast .
The stabilisers are a good idea any pics for size and position on the hull ?
Russell ,was the shaft replacement easy as the plastic looks a bit brittle ?
daz
-
Hi Richard
Not yet completed ready for real "sea" trials, but yesterday I had the boat in the usual test tank, ie the bath! I rested a 6v 4ah SLA on the top of the ballast tank, and there seemed to be quite sufficient power on 6v. However, the supplied 9.6v nicads will be taken to the lakeside for trials when finished. If I am able to remove SLA without dismantling the whole boat, then I can try both, and judge from there. Being more used to using SLA's in my boats, that would be my choice if it works well enough.
As there seem to be a good few of us with these boats now, perhaps a future Mayhem get-together could feature them, maybe as a rival feature to the Springer tugs?
Danny
-
thats an idea ,to remove the water tank all together .didn't think of that one :(
i left mine in (as martin's destructions said) therefore the 6v battery sits on top of that,and it can still be removed
I did try the tug without the lump of concrete for ballast but put it back as there was a bit to much wobble ,maybe a bit more lead down there to replace the ballast .
The stabilisers are a good idea any pics for size and position on the hull ?
Russell ,was the shaft replacement easy as the plastic looks a bit brittle ?
daz
Hi Daz, I can still remove the battery even though it sits in the bottom of the ballast tank, i have attached a picture, i will post one later with the stabilisers shown, the ballasting is always a problem in small boats so i tend to use food bags with sand and these can be spread out moreevenly and can be shaped to fit between things. The plastic is brittle but if you take your time it can be removed with ease, i have actually put the original back in mine as i needed the new one for another project but have changed the coupling to a silicon tube link.
-
A couple of pictures to show the stabilisers and how the superstructure lifts off to access the battery to remove.
-
Oh no you have got to be kidding Russell, now there is no way i am going to show you under my wheel house yours is far to tidy .
But i like the stabilisers , with that width it should be very stable .
daz
-
Daz, the boat is very stable and even at a good speed on a full turn it stays bang upright.
-
loks like the fins are going for a fit cheers O0
daz
-
I like the fins idea on the hull, when I first bought mine I tried to use it at the lake, but other radios made it impossible, I there fore went the way of everyone else and stripped it, I mounted all the radio gear on a small board on top of the now redundant water tank, but on it's first outing things went a bit wrong when while trying to get it in again it turned over. The boat has served me well since about March, untill a distinct lack of power forced me to get a new hull built larger than original, and hopefully ready at the beginning of 2008, I will keep you all informed.
Andy.
-
Andy, replace the dickies radio for regular 40mhz radio
-
Or if your realy tight ,like me :) put some cheap 27mhz gear in O0
daz
-
as long as its hobby grade it doesnt really mater, just ditch the el crapo toy grade crap that it comes with, then you'll have a decent boat
-
I put a 40 two channel in mine sealed up the tank didn't know at the time about the water scoop idea, or I might have had the monitor working on the turn.
Andy.
-
Well my tug was delivered from Howes today. Haven't opened the box yet. O0
-
Now come on Richard, you should have had your tug half-converted at least by now! {-) {-) {-)
Danny
-
I also have one of these - which I'm planning to convert to an earlier type (mid-20th century) diesel tug (rather like the one represented by the Revell "Lucky XI" plastic kit)
However, the boat seems to have a problem with the steering, the Kort nozzle rudder only turns half as far to the left as it does to the right, hence the boat doesn't steer very well in this direction to say the least. Has anyone else had this problem?
Another question I have - since the rebuilt boat probably won't have a water cannon, I was thinking of converting this to a bilge pump (not that the boat really needs one as it is very stable when running + doesn't take on water) and also replacing the water ballast tank (an annoying "feature" as it causes the boat to drip pond water all over the place!) with lead weights; what would be the best way to seal up the holes in the bottom of the hull? Would duct tape be sufficiently waterproof?
It's also very noisy in reverse, which appears to be caused by the prop (fairly close to the surface) sucking up air and creating bubbles - I'm wondering whether a bit of extra ballast at the stern might reduce this. The boat appears to have a solid ballast weight installed beneath the battery compartment (the battery also weighs a fair bit) so it could be a bit bow-heavy.
-
I have had similar geometry problems with other RTR's, however that may be due to the linkages being offset, as for the two holes, epoxy two pieces of ABS onto the inside, then use plastic filler on the slots, sanded down. then give a good coat of paint.
-
It seems that removing the rudder adjustment lever has more or less fixed the problem - I tried the boat out on the pond this morning, and it ran very well, the steering was very controllable in both directions. It still steers a bit better to the left than the right, but it's not a serious problem. Also, due to the rudder/nozzle auto-center not working properly, constant steering is needed to keep the boat in a straight line, but again I found I got used to this fairly quickly.
For anyone else interested, what I did was: after removing the deck from the boat, I removed the cover from the rudder servo mechanism (this is held on by 2 screws). I then removed the orange plastic adjustment lever, along with the plastic washer which holds it on, and then replaced the servo cover.
The next stage is to seal up the ballast tank intake and add some lead weight in the hull, then seal up the various holes in the deck left by removing screws + fittings - then I'll be able to start rebuilding the superstructure and external details.
-
just came from sailing my mates new Dickie, which he bought from Howes.
Don't even go there! The RC range was less than three feet and it couldn't turn right, no matter what we did to it.
Its going to be sorted out soon with decent RC, as my poor friend was very upset with its RTR performence. I'm going to sort it out to make it up to him (I recommended the boat to him! ::))
-
just came from sailing my mates new Dickie, which he bought from Howes.
Don't even go there to get one! The RC range was less than three feet and it couldn't turn right, no matter what we did to it. It would appear that the new Dickie tugs (not counting the Naval rubbish) are rubbish.
Its going to be sorted out soon with decent RC, as my poor friend was very upset with its RTR performence. I'm going to sort it out to make it up to him (I recommended the boat to him! ::))
-
Well Willit did you not read about these on the forum. Did you not ask yourself why is everyone altering these ?
-
Well Willit did you not read about these on the forum. Did you not ask yourself why is everyone altering these ?
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o
>>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-( >>:-(
I'm not an idiot, of course I read about it, I read about it on the Mayhem site before it even appeared on this forum! {-) I was going to do it myself but built my Springer instead. I was in point of fact saying the ones from Howes are a particularly nasty breed.
I did tell my friend he would have to upgrade it as there is no such thing as a good cheap RTR model and it would have horrible RC properties.
But I never expected it to be as bad as it was
Martins test run of the stock Dickie showed reasonable performence out of the box for a RTR (in that it went forwards backwards left and right as well as squirt water), and I was banking on it being the same.
Instead my friends one went forward ok until it was three feet out (when it went out of range), reverse caused it to just cavitate a lot. Steering was well....port :P forget starboard, couldnt be done. The fire hose thing was gutted the moment we got the boat open.
Not to worry it will be upgraded by myself soon so my friend will be happy and have a decent boat.
He wants to repaint it so I shall get pics of it when he's done.
-
A couple of my Dickie Conversions
Two canadian tugs based on the same hull
-
Those look like two very nicely built conversions! O0 It just shows what you can do with this RTR boat with the help of some scratchbuilding work. I'd definitely like to see more photos and detail close-ups of these models.
The nearer one of the two (Pacific Fury) is more or less what I was originally intending to convert mine into, before I discovered that some steam tugs were fitted with Kort nozzles.
Don't even go there! The RC range was less than three feet and it couldn't turn right, no matter what we did to it.
See my post (above) for a way to fix the steering problem (at least partially!). The range is another matter, it sounds faulty to me - mine has a range of at least 20-30 feet.
-
Hi guys...just bought one of these from fleabay for the grand sum of 17.00 squids..........so i'll tear everything out and see what a mess i can make of converting it
And you are right about the range ....stavros tried his at watt tyler and the end result can be seen of my springer pushing it back ...it must have gone all of four feet before it went out of range..........now where did i put that saw ?????? O0
regards.....bob.
-
Anybody else transmitting in the same waveband? These 'toys' have very weak TXs and rubbish RXs any nearby transmission on the same wave band, ie 40 or 27, from a decent TX will swamp the RX rsult one dead boat. Turn off the decent TX and presto 'toy' boat jumps back into life.
Cheers
Doug
-
Anybody fix the leaking propeller shaft?
-
Anybody fix the leaking propeller shaft?
Mine doesn't leak.
-
I think the shaft is quite tricky to get out but if you do, just back it with grease.
-
That was pack it with grease. These admin chappies, always in a rush. ::)
-
Thanks so much!
Greasing the propeller shaft with $2.99 Coastal Marine Grease (Water-repellant) fixed the leak. Shaft was easy to get out - pull it out with pliers, grease, push it back in.
More pictures here: http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa36/Stevelum_2007/Dickie%20Seaport%20Workboat%20Tugboat%20RC/
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa36/Stevelum_2007/Dickie%20Seaport%20Workboat%20Tugboat%20RC/P1010101.jpg)
-
So that's how you get it out!
Thanks! O0
-
As shown on the mayhem site, I gutted the radio gear and installed a proper radio set. After running the stock motor, I decided a new one was definitely in order. It was an easy swap to put a better Mabuchi 380 in place, and boy what difference in performance. While you have the innards open, replace all your wires to the ESC, battery and motor with 12 gauge r/c car wire. I think this also helped to boost the power. I also intend to replace the universal out soon, that thing's noisy!
Rev
-
HoaRC,
GREAT SHOT! One of your gallery photos was selected for rotation on
RCUniverse Home Page!
The caption is: "Dickie Workboat / Tugboat"
To see it, make sure you are in the "BOATS" or "All R/C" Universe (if
you are not in that universe, you can select it using the menu atop the
login/member box on the upper right of the home page).
If you don't see it at first, just refresh the page because it rotates
every 3 minutes with other awesome shots.
Thanks,
RCU "Shot of the Moment" Crew
Maybe I am the only one who thinks this is awesome. Rcuniverse forum put a picture of my Dickie Tugboat on their front page in the rotating "shot of the moment" spot!
(http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa36/Stevelum_2007/dickie.jpg)
-
What are most people doing as regards the running gear?
1. Using the original motor, coupling and shaft?
2. Replacing the motor & coupling?
3. Replacing the the shaft and prop?
4. Replacing everything!
Also, what speed controller are you using?
-
I kept the motor, coupling, shaft and prop and renewed rudder servo.
I used a Tornado 50amp forward 20amp reverse speed controller
-
I currently have the same motor, coupling and prop with an electronize 43 speed controller. Very noisy setup at low speed with the coupling and small water ingress via shaft.
Still using the pump which is now controlled by seperate servo on a cam/microswitch.
Best wishes
Jules64
-
I use the same motor but I geared it after a year or two. Unfortunately I broke a connection to the original piston pump so I had to replace it. I seem to be the only one that choose to keep the ballast tank, I think its great. As I have put extra fixed ballast in her I had to extend the air vents from the tank out on deck, before that I couldn't figure out where the water in the hull came from!!
-
I kept the same running gear. like Richard I put a 'normal' servo in for steering, and use Mtronics 15amp speed controller. Now undergoing major refit, calm weather allowing respray to Alexandra Towing Company colours for hull and superstructure, funnels converted much earlier!
Danny
-
Made a discovery yesterday morning, Grease dosen't stop water ingress in the sloppy fit tube and shaft supplied after sitting in the test tank overnight there was enough water to wet the bottom of the motor can. Very lucky it wasn't a few hours longer, anyway a new prop shaft has been made just waiting on new 45mm prop to arrive.
Ahhh the fun we have whilst modelling.
Damien.
-
Topic spilt : http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=20625.msg199475#msg199475
-
I am working on my version of the SeaPort Work Boat. It is based on Clyde Marine's Stantug 1906 Battler. This will enable a 1/32 scale model which should look appropriate alongside my colleagues' Mobile Marine models (less work but much more money!)
However, having looked a loads of pictures before I made my choice, I have several more versions in mind for future conversions, so I thought I'd get a couple more kits in stock ready for the next Winter-workshop season. Unfortunately, Howes is currently out of stock.
Google led me to http://www.rcscale.co.uk/eshop/proddetail.php?prod=RCB-SEAPOR. The price looks good at £27.48 each. Sadly the checkout says Goods £54.96, Shipping £58.60!
Either rcscale.co.uk has a serious error in their checkout calculator or they think I was born yesterday! Avoid this supplier until they fix the error or decide to be less greedy.
-
Howesmodels have them back in stock £42.50 inc delivery and yes i just got one :-))
-
I am working on my version of the SeaPort Work Boat. It is based on Clyde Marine's Stantug 1906 Battler. This will enable a 1/32 scale model which should look appropriate alongside my colleagues' Mobile Marine models (less work but much more money!)
However, having looked a loads of pictures before I made my choice, I have several more versions in mind for future conversions, so I thought I'd get a couple more kits in stock ready for the next Winter-workshop season. Unfortunately, Howes is currently out of stock.
Google led me to http://www.rcscale.co.uk/eshop/proddetail.php?prod=RCB-SEAPOR. The price looks good at £27.48 each. Sadly the checkout says Goods £54.96, Shipping £58.60!
Either rcscale.co.uk has a serious error in their checkout calculator or they think I was born yesterday! Avoid this supplier until they fix the error or decide to be less greedy.
If you read their info there is this paragraph.
We provide Standard Air Mail shipping and Express Delivery, we can ship all orders to our customers around the world in a short period of time. All our orders will be send from our Asia Office (not from UK), so please be aware that you may need to pay for the import taxes (or may not), depend on your country's import tax policies.
-
Via email to Mayhem...
Hello
I see your web (How to convert the Dickie Tug to full proportional radio control)
My conversion of the "Dickie tug boat", in the lightvessel "Cabo Prior":
http://www.amonaga.org/foro/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=88 (http://www.amonaga.org/foro/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=88)
-
I have a couple of Dickie Tugs that I use as a rescue for RC sailboating. I have 4 of them because as one gets into trouble I need to have a replacement because my sailboats are expensive and I had one stolen when I couldn't rescue it and had to leave the pond to find a device to retrieve the boat and when I got back it was gone!
Anyway, I have 4 boats and 4 transmitters - 3 Harbour Tugs and 1 "Fireboat". The Fireboat Model responds to only 1 of the transmitters (that I use for one of the Harbour Tugs) has great acceleration forward and backward and the firehose works BUT the rudder doesn't turn - there is no response at all, no noise of effort to try to respond! I use the same transmitter on the Harbour boat and everything works. I have tried the other 3 transmitters and the Fireboat doesn't respond to any of them. Of course I lost track of what transmitter came with the Fireboat because they all look the same though the frequencies are slightly different.
Has anyone had this problem with the rudder receiver not responding to the transmitter and determined the cause and a fix?
I would love and appreciate hearing some ideas... My main interest is sailing and I am not a builder so the act of retrofitting the Tug is not really an option.
Thanks in advance
-
Russ - I know it has been years since the posting of your stabilizers for this tug....
What did you use for your stabilizers and how did you apply them to the boat so that she runs straight and true? I like the idea but need advice on what to do. Thanks
-
How can I put this politely.... the fitted radio is complete and utter RUBBISH!
... that why everyone replaces it with 'real' 2 channel radio.... most of us even before it touches the water! :-))
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/My_models/31%20Dickie.htm
I have a couple of Dickie Tugs that I use as a rescue for RC sailboating. I have 4 of them because as one gets into trouble I need to have a replacement because my sailboats are expensive and I had one stolen when I couldn't rescue it and had to leave the pond to find a device to retrieve the boat and when I got back it was gone!
Anyway, I have 4 boats and 4 transmitters - 3 Harbour Tugs and 1 "Fireboat". The Fireboat Model responds to only 1 of the transmitters (that I use for one of the Harbour Tugs) has great acceleration forward and backward and the firehose works BUT the rudder doesn't turn - there is no response at all, no noise of effort to try to respond! I use the same transmitter on the Harbour boat and everything works. I have tried the other 3 transmitters and the Fireboat doesn't respond to any of them. Of course I lost track of what transmitter came with the Fireboat because they all look the same though the frequencies are slightly different.
Has anyone had this problem with the rudder receiver not responding to the transmitter and determined the cause and a fix?
I would love and appreciate hearing some ideas... My main interest is sailing and I am not a builder so the act of retrofitting the Tug is not really an option.
Thanks in advance
-
As a newcomer to this hobby, I bought myself a SEAPORT harbour tug. With the assistance of one of the members in our club, I am in the process of upgrading / modifying the tug. I also plan to give it a respray.
I'm looking forward to seeing it completed when it will look more like model and less of a toy ... :}
-
I wonder if anyone has found a use for the stuff they call RC in a dickie, book ends etc :D .
Seriously Kleban get rid of the rc gear in the workboat and fit a cheap 27mhz set ,
it's not that hard to do and it will give you the assurance that your boat will work on the water.
check the link,
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/
Then click on the workboat picture , you will find everthing there to get you into your boat (there are some hidden screws) and change the radio .
Also you could take on some of the ideas and make yours different on the outside.
good luck
daz
-
Very nice looking tug. Is the hull fiberglass?
Jack.H {-)
-
It's a toy type hard plastic quite brittle but you can drill and cut it with care.
When modifying the electronics you may have to drill a few holes to keep the
cable runs tidy and cut out the water ballast tank if you want to use a SLA battery
No need to cut or drill the hull at all unless you are unlucky and get one with a
leaky prop shaft stern tube (mine was ok)
Ned
-
Dickie Rudder Servo doesn't work - No hint of movement. Drive for propeller forward and aft works fine. Fire hose squirter works fine. But nearly new Tug has no response to rudder control. Has anyone had this problem and know a solution. I am in no position to totally retrofit new servos and RC controls.
Help!
-
Hello Kent. Try a posting in the Wants section. Because of its dubious performance most of the lads rip out
the original gear.So it should be virtual giveaway. One guy at my club has replaced his gear . I will ask him if hes still got the origenal It may well be possible to pick up a cheap 25 or 40 meg set as a lot of the lads are going to 2.4 now. You will need more than 2 ch if you wish to use squirter. Good luck. John.
-
Thanks martin. All of you have inspired me. I love this site. I have put up the pictures of the conversion under the seaport tug section :-)
-
Hi Kent,
I am wondering that you want to rescue several >expensive< sailboats with that dickiechinaelectricalcrap.
Take a few pounds, get yourself just another (= the fifth) reliable RX working with your existing gear, another servo, and an ESC - and you've got a real insurance.
And you may need only one backup Dickie instead of three ok2 . Perhaps selling one or two of them would refinance the new rx, somebody may even want to swap.
Regards from germany,
ben
-
I have to say that this piece of junk has worked reliably well to drag out the buoys for setting a sailing race course; for clearing out floating weeds with a dragging device; for rescuing sailboats when the battery dies or when the wind dies out at sunset.
Love this Dickie tug thingy! It has saved me many a frigid swim in the middle of winter and the only time I did not have it and a sailboat got hung up in overhanging branches, when I ran home to get a retriever device and came back, some bloke had stolen the sailboat!!
I have had to use one Dickie tug to retrieve another one that almost sank - before I stabilized them better with lead strips at the bottom of the hull.
So you can trash talk your Dickie, but I love mine!!
Just kidding!
K
-
heres me with my girlfriends brothers coast guard version think it was the one before the tug version
(http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/35253_146697518674434_100000025607399_452406_7082999_n.jpg)
-
My motor just died - due to a sinking (you don't want to know !)
I see in a very early post that a 540 motor was substituted. This seems awful big. Any smaller suggestions
Cheers Mike
-
hi what is the best way to remove the original coupling i tried plyers but it didint work
-
Don't ruin that coupling, I found the other half of it earlier today, I'll post it to you with a few more bits I found.
Rich
-
thanks
-
what type of coupling is it ?
-
if you go down the page to the pic that shows motor and batt its that same coupling
-
it appears to be a ball / socket type coupling ? if so i also have some odd peices !
-
That superstructure look familiar!
Remote control model support boat - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-control-model-support-boat-/251090608208?_trksid=p4340.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29%26meid%3D257554771882902043%26pid%3D100009%26prg%3D1013%26rk%3D4%26 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Remote-control-model-support-boat-/251090608208?_trksid=p4340.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D555001%26algo%3DPW.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29%26meid%3D257554771882902043%26pid%3D100009%26prg%3D1013%26rk%3D4%26)
-
Has anyone re-built a Seaport Tug as a twin shaft? :-)
-
This is my one at the Chantry Model Boat Clubs Tug Open Fun Day on Sunday.
It has the original motor/prop shaft and korts nozzle/ propeller.It now has a 6v sla battery.
Len.
(http://s7.postimage.org/axjr1ecnr/100_0095.jpg) (http://postimage.org/image/axjr1ecnr/)
-
Has anyone re-built a Seaport Tug as a twin shaft? :-)
I had thought about it but the stern is the wrong shape i think
-
.......yeah.... I've been looking at my stern for a couple weeks, (I've got a crick neck now!) {-)
- it could be done as it look a bit like the stern end of an old steam tug stern but I still think it would look wrong. {:-{
-
.......yeah.... I've been looking at my stern for a couple weeks, (I've got a crick neck now!) {-)
- it could be done as it look a bit like the stern end of an old steam tug stern but I still think it would look wrong. {:-{
You could alyays tak th ekeel but out & then make a new thinner one & put the 2 props on
Or if you want some fun 2 of these...
-
nice
-
that would certainly put a different slant on the Dicky tug O0
-
Better late than never, has anyone ever fitted one of these out with a heli-pad on the back end? and tried to land a micro-heli on the back of it in the pond? Preferably not an expencive Heli though, just in case!
-
I'll give you a Fiver if you can land it on the tug, whilst on water, even once! O0
-
Is that your fiver or Phil's Martin ?
-
ok2 is anyone any good at flying R/C hellies then?? I will happily fit my Dickie up with a flight deck if anyone is mad enough to have a go!
HAHA
-
Just to round this off for the followers,
Took her out on the local disused quarry (with kind permission from the landowner, of course) the Giant Cod Tx/Rx set worked well, started putting her through more strenuous turns, and noticed she was listing somewhat so naturally I start bringing her back to shore, about half way in she lost power and radio, within a minute her list was massive and she slowly slipped beneath the water.
I think I must have struck a piece of submerged rubbish and holed below the water line, <:(
Thank you all for the support in my first venture into proper boating, needless to say it will not be me last and definitely not my last seaport tug!
Sean
-
She was lost as sea?
-
About 40 feet of water :(
Sean
-
Sorry to hear that Sean, is that the firsttotal loss of a SeaPort tug?
I though that hull plastic was made out of nuclear waste!!!
-
Thank you martin.
I honestly think it must be the hull is thicker than a dreadnought, its some 4-5mm thick in places!
This is also My first that was truly lost at sea as well, the others were either scrapped or sold, and my old Atlantic 21 was struck by speedboat in shallow water, so was recovered easily enough.
Definitely want another sea port tug now O0 maybe I will add water tight bulkheads to my next one!
Sean
-
Hi Sean.
curious to as to why you vessel hit the deep six, do you have any pix of the internal arrangement as there may be a clue in this to the sinking. If it hit something you would have noticed the jolt. Sounds like it been flooding since it hit the water. Did you do away with the ballast tank or keep it.
frank
-
Hi Frank,
Unfortunately I don't have any pics of the interior arrangement.
I did do away with the top of the ballast tank leaving just enough of the sides to hold the battery, the inlet vents I had packed with 151 epoxy putty.
Other tweaks included a new prop shaft and prop, replaced all the electrical bits too. Having read a good number of posts I put the ESC, Rx, and such in a water proof box.
One other thing that may factor in is the boat had seen a fair bit of use when I was MUCH younger, in a saltwater lake, before being laid up for several years before this project. Do you think that may have something to do with it?
The only.others options I can think of is I might have made a hairline crack in the hull swapping the prop shaft, or one of the epoxy bungs failed?
Sean
-
Hi Sean.
Did you put some grease in the shaft as that can be a fave place for water to get in. The shafts in these things should come away easily as I had replaced three shafts in ones I have with no damage to the hull. Did you use epoxy glue like (araldite) to fix the new shaft in or was it the poxy putty. Did you retain the kort or fit a rudder. Is this epoxy putty the same as milliput.
Take it you had the battery fixed in place so it did`nt roll around. Just when you mentioned about doing these hand brake turns is when the problen arose. Its possible the stuff you had in the tank compartment could have disturbed the poxy bungs but the water certainly came in fast and knocked out your radio gear.
The salt water should`nt have effected the plastic mainly they crap steel screws they put it together with.
Must have a look in the dungeon {-) see if I have enough spare parts to make a whole one you could have.
frank
-
HI Sean
Sorry to hear your Dickie went down, my thought is the filler you used 151, is very cheap and i wonder if it cracked or broke away from the tank inlet, this would cause the sudden and catastofic inrush, maybe on your next one use a plate to cover the hole and then fill to smoth the hull
Mark
-
Frank;
The new shaft was fixed in place with Araldite then packed with grease as so many others have done on here. The original Kort was retained, the prop was a Kort type, with maybe 1-2mm clearance (slack I know) as Mark so rightly said. 151 putty seems to be rather poor stuff compared to proper araldite (another lesson learned!)
For the battery I pair of Plywood U snapped pieces, both fixed to the hull with Araldite, to keep the battery in said frame I used a short but firm luggage strap.
Part of me is beginning to wonder if I should have had an additional U frame running along the keel as well as the two across the beam...
I agree she did go down fast, I am wondering if the battery slipped just enough to drop onto the poxy bungs?
If you do have any spare bits for the dickies, drop me a PM pretty please! :-) I admit I am rather taken with then.
Also, Frank, many thanks for taking the time to help me work out where I went wrong.
Mark;
Thank you :-) that coupled with Franks ideas and suggestions do point to the bungs failing in a truely spectacular way.
I will definitely plate over the inlets on the next one, along with using a decent filler such as Milliput
Thanks to both of you, I'm feeling a little more positive now about it.
Sean
-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIO-REMOTE-CONROL-MODEL-TUG-BOAT-WITH-LIGHTS-CANNON-WITH-FAULTS-FAULTY-/231494649280?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e62805c0
-
Thanks Martin, its on my watch list :}
-
A late comer to the party.
-
Anyone know where to obtain spares?
I have lost the battery hatch to my Seaport Tug.
Tim
-
My Seaport wiring finished apart from water pump. all sprayed just deck furniture and lights to do ...
https://flic.kr/p/xG9JC1 (https://flic.kr/p/xG9JC1)
The water inlet pipe is currenlty plugged so i could do water trials.
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5705/20801423920_91b7f2d986_b.jpg)
-
Found this on Utube :
RC Seaport Tugboat Upgrades - https://youtu.be/w1jMyA6UU44
-
I have been given a Seaport/Dickie Tug with no propeller. The shaft is not threaded but there is a threaded hole for a screw does anybody know where I can get a spare propeller.
-
Thanks for moving to right topic.
-
The factory shaft is not all that great to start with, some have replaced it complete, some have just replaced the shaft.
-
Yes, for the sake of a few pounds even getting a shaft/tube/prop combo off eBay is better than the standard one.
The original one on mine just pulled out with some pliers and a bit of twisting, after gentle heating of the hull with a hairdryer.
Well worth doing, the Dickie tug is still one of the best little cheap hulls around, even if the price has skyrocketed in the recent years!
-
Come on then TC, what brushless motor do you recommend for the Seaport? :-)
-
For a cheapie this does the job perfectly:
http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__19611__NTM_Prop_Drive_28_36_750KV_265W.html (http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__19611__NTM_Prop_Drive_28_36_750KV_265W.html)
A little overpowered perhaps but it's very efficient on the battery life, tiny footprint and well priced.
Doesn't need a big ESC either, something like this would do:
http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__24567__HobbyKing_30A_Boat_ESC_3A_UBEC.html (http://hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__24567__HobbyKing_30A_Boat_ESC_3A_UBEC.html)
For under £20 a Motor and ESC seems not bad for me, especially as with most batteries you'll get a good few hours run time it's a perfect little chuckabout boat.
Alex
-
Thanks for your information. Has anybody still got a propeller left over from their conversion that they would be willing to sell.
-
Skimmer Fan
PM'ed you
Alex
-
Tugcowboy
PM sent
-
E-bay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-SEAPORT-WORK-BOAT-TUG-BOAT-REMOTE-CONTROL-SEE-DETAILS-/371428284250?hash=item567ad9d75a (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-SEAPORT-WORK-BOAT-TUG-BOAT-REMOTE-CONTROL-SEE-DETAILS-/371428284250?hash=item567ad9d75a)
-
Via email to Mayhem...
Hi Martin
Attached are some pics of the tugboat I converted, thanks to you help! I'm happy to report it came out great and the first maiden voyage (in the tub, heh) was successful! Just in time for my daughter's birthday today :-) Although, for some reason the spray hose is not working but it maybe that I have to prime it somehow or the motor may be turning the wrong direction? Need to test more.
I ended up getting a 2nd speed control for the spray hose because it was $7 more and to me it was a simpler install. Battery placement was great with the two you recommended and I ran them on parallel for long battery life. Question, did your have foam to help buoyancy? Mine didn't but I may use some expanding foam, just in case.
Thanks again!
Pete
NB: This was Phil's shopping list:
Evening Pete!
1.Speed controller (is reverse needed?)
Yes, reverse needed as you find out on your very first run!
Also best if it "waterproof" - this look OK:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DU49XXS/ref=cm_sw_su_dp - Hobbypower Rc ESC 10a Brushed Motor Speed Controller for Rc Car Boat W/o Brake
This looks better:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LXCM3Q8?psc=1 - HobbyWing QUICRUN 1060 Brushed ESC (1/10)
2. Battery looks OK. Other options are two of these ( for weight distribution purposes) :
http://amzn.com/B00LRUTW92 - 2x Pack - UB613 Universal Sealed Lead Acid Battery Replacement (6V, 1.3Ah)
3.Charger looks gooK too. This one will do just as well:
http://amzn.com/B001G8AIMU - Sealed Lead Acid Battery Charger UPG D1724
4. Radio. I would go for a Cheap 4 or 6 channel radio, just in case you catch the bug and want to build a 2nd boat (or car!)
Make sure you can get additional Rx cheaply!
These look OK:
http://amzn.com/B00EI9UVOE - 2.4G FS-CT6B 6 CH Radio Model RC Transmitter & Receiver PPM/GFSK
And i like these: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__74037__Turnigy_TGY_i6_AFHDS_Transmitter_and_6CH_Receiver_Mode_2_AR_Warehouse_.html
-
...Hi Guys...
Does anyone have a Dickie Seaport Tug surplus to requirements...
Preferably still with working fire monitor...
My son Harry wants one as he has been told all about his big brother Johnny having fun with his model a few years back...
...Best Regards...Norry...
-
Sorry no, I have only just recently won one from our friendly fleabay site......
Only thing you can do if no-one has one, is keep your eyes peeled on e-bay.
I paid £35 for mine..
-
I might have on in the shed, I'll have a look this weekend.
-
I'm looking a Tug boat to use as s rescue boat.
Can you get these still?
-
Not particularly good at rescue
A Springer is much more versatile
for rescue duties :-))
Ned
-
Don't listen to Netleyned, %) I have a Seaport for sale!
-
Send me the details over pm matey...
Sprinters look cool but I suck at building!
-
Springers look pretty cool too, and they are dead easy to build.
You can get a complete kit from Models by design for fifty quid.
Simon
-
Don't listen to Netleyned, %) I have a Seaport for sale!
Oy <*< No bumping sales it's da rools {-)
Ned
-
Cheap one on fleabay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RADIO-CONTROLLED-TUG-BOAT-23-LONG-NEEDS-TLC-/331822916391?hash=item4d422fe327:g:3SoAAOSwjwlXA2nU
-
Thanks Martin.
I'll add that to my watch list.
Not sure my building skills will be upto the job %%
-
Easy! :-))
Lots of full builds on here:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/My_models/31%20Dickie.htm
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/board,125.0.html
-
Hi
Back in April of this year (2018) I purchased a Seaport Dickie Tug from Martyn, and this is the result.
Hope you like it Martyn
-
Yes! brilliant Fred. I love it. Can't beat a dickie tug for some good clean fun and some really GREAT models. I looked in the garage last weekend and realised I only have Two left :( I keep making them and selling them. Going to have to do another this Year I think.
do you have any more pictures to share?
-
Hi TugCowboy
Sorry only the one
Have a few of my other tug and have started working on a MMM Lady "T".
Fred
-
Looks great Fred!
RNLI colours or is that coincidence?
-
Hi Martin
Thank you,
No it was that the club was doing an R.N.L.I. event at our local R.N.L.I station so I decided to do a concept R.N.L.I. Tug. I do not have the skill to do a Lifeboat.
All the best
Fred