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Hi John


Another Riva Aquarama, excellent decision. 


I haven't actually used the G2 Hydra 30 units, but on the face of it / based on the specs they look well suited to the Amati kit, I do think you'll need both units. In the same boat I'm using 2 x 3530 brushless (same 1100kv as the G2s) on 3S LiPos, restricted by the transmitter to 80% output, and they're still a bit overpowered and draw 10A maximum. I think if you put PropShop 1415 propellers on those G2 motors they would work well. Given the G2 motors should rev at similar speed they may use a but more current to spin those props at full speed, but I'd have thought well within limits, and most time is spent at lower speeds anyway.  I see the motor sizes are smaller in diameter and longer in length (compared to usual outrunners) and this will help let you keep the motors low in the hull, so better prop shaft angle too.


If you went for LiPo power, I'm not 100% clear whether the Hydra 30 ESC units can handle 3S liPo's as they exceed 12V when fully charged (12.6V ish), I'd have thought they would be OK but maybe someone else can clarify..?  Running the boat on 2S would reduce performance quite a bit.  LiPos help keep weight down and power up but I know some folks don't like them.


My main feedback with this kit is that it builds heavy as it was designed as a static display model.  Building for RC needs weight saving to be taken into account at every opportunity, especially up at the bow.


Look forward to seeing the build take shape..!
Best regards
David.

That is a really impressive photo! As I get older, my future projects will be smaller in size and weight as well, makes it easier to transport and handle. The SS Falcon is a step into that direction already

Arno,
Thank you for a comment.!!    Yes, I can't help compromising when building a RC scale boat, since this is a RC BOAT in the beginning before a scale boat in my understanding..
Precisely detailed RC model mainly for display or practically good sailing performance as a RC scale boat on the water (sometimes choppy..)...or both to take in a model boat...
It will be entirely dependent upon individual ideas, concepts, circumstances of boating, intensions and purposes to build the model. I am given a large lake for boating that I have selected a sailing performance rather than precisely detailed model, therefore my boat has to be simple, stout, easy to handle from and back home. Moreover it is next to impossible for me to see such good details of the boat during its run, nor to have such an easy time when operating the fast boat.!!!
The pic is my 45 years old flag ship and still in service and seaworthy.
Kiyo

Nicely done, Kiyo, this one will be a good compromise between detailing and easy RC use. I know what you meant in your thread before, my Shannon boat being so detailed that you think better using it only as a display model
Our club pond is a lot smaller than your lake, but it is situated in a valley so we do not get such choppy water…..

Rear deck was also installed with the handrails as per the instruction manuals.
Everything is going on smooth and easy to do after launching which is also going onto the trial run on the boating lake.
But the lake itself is the very problem for me for this season....   Oh, yes!! winter season !!
My RC boat has to be stout and intensive waterproof, but normally I never sail in this photo level of wavy condition with some exceptions , needless to say.

Thanks Salimlun.

The hardest part of any project is the last 10% – well, it is for me anyway. The Maui is almost finished – I've only got to attach a few deck fittings, and apply the hull markings. Easy stuff but I've been avoiding it for several weeks. I don't want to rush it and end up with something not quite right.

I finally psyched myself up to finish it off last week and the first thing I managed to do was snap off the mast light and the port FF sprinkler system. I reached over the model to grab a tool and bingo – stupid and clumsy!! Don't wear baggy jumper sleeves next time, you tool! Time out!

Unnecessary and fiddly repairs. The mast light just happens to be exactly the same colour as the workshop floor so I'll never find that again. Doh!

Anyway, the end result is that there has been no progress on the Maui. I've already moved on in my mind to the next project. I'll have to knuckle down and finish it soon or the usual Christmas mayhem and holidays will set me back until late January. I've been saying that for almost 5 years.

With reference to the lights I suspect when the water started to fill the engineering spaces, the boilers and pumps etc would be left working as the men strove to get on deck before drowning below and boilers exploding when water immersed them. Though I wonder what the damage would have been if she steered dead on to the berg instead of going hard over and exposing her forward run and side to the effect of grinding along the berg ripping off rivet heads and stoving in portholes. When i went through college we was told to always hit an obstruction head on rather than an angled collision as the stem and construction behind it is stronger than the shoulder,

How about similar method as used most probably on the old sailing men of war. Gratings over hold then hatch cloth, lifted one end by lashings and secured the other end by battens and wedges, this would catch the breeze and force the air movement below.

Thanks for the advice, I'm going to change the tip on my soldering iron too

Here's a tutorial of my explanation. 
 .  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2vZTAfxPs4

Thanks for the advice, I'm going to change the tip on my soldering iron too