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Greetings Everyone,
        Just a quick addition to the post, on our Open/Bring and Buy day on the 22nd, Steve from "Scale Hobbies" will be attending with all his modelling bits and pieces. Weather has been very good the last few days in Southport and the forecast is also good for the weekend.
          Hope to see another good attendance with lots of decent boats and bits for sale. Thanks for looking.
               Regards,
                   Pete.Farrell
                        Southport MBC Vice Chairman.

The Peterborough Club will be taking part both days


Mick
Secretary PAMBC

Hello all,


Since I start to get really close to setting sail now it's time to fix the propulsion in place for as far as I haven't already. Here 1 attempt for a fitting mount for the retractable azimuth. By now I have a properly fitting mount where the magnet glued to the gearwheel is barely touching the chip. Now I need to check if the chip is registering properly, proving proper alignment.
I made the stern steering engines the same way though with the extra needed room for the thicker and also bigger gears

Setting sail with a boat which is not watertight sounds like asking for trouble so I need to make the moonpool watertight as soon as possible. I forgot to think ahead and glued the garage and it's connecting piece in place instead of first placing the tubes for waterproofing the drive shafts for the doors first when I had the room. Here I use the remaining piece of 2x3mm tube and a hammer to gently but firmly get the first tube in place. Then I put a couple drops of glue around it to fix it in place once and for all, but the glue found it's way underneath the garage to the other tube where it stopped me from mirroring the steps I had just made. I just managed to avoid having the tube glued in the wrong place after which I decided the garage had to come out. I managed to do just that with some pain and broken PLA, but by now all is ready for placing the doors and lower moonpool door.

If you look closely you can see the remainder of the infill PLA which has broken away from the garage proving the holding power of the glue. Both tubes are now place correctly.

Since I managed to remove the garage I used the opportunity to mount the servo's, which are connected through a Y-cable so the doors will open simultaneously. I made myself some nice servo mounts and then complemented those with a version for floor mounting.

Added the LED strip for lighting inside the hull for once the deck is in place. I continued organising the wiring which starts to come along nicely.

Placing the LED strip around the deck edge seems to provide plenty of light. Concerning the power of the LED strip: the somewhat lighter flooring in the background is fully lit by daylight.

I turned my attention to the bow. Some electronics have placed permanently and the wiring has been sorted out.

The time had come to put the connectors in place in such a way that the electronics can be connected even with the deck in place, starting with the connector for the drilling tower. Since the drilling tower holds 5 working winches and a crane it feels appropriate to have a firm foundation preventing the drilling tower from tipping over. Should water leak past the side of the tower, the connector is protected against water getting in by means of an edge around it and a drainage hole in the bottom of the holder.

De connector can now be used, even with the deck in place, though it will take quite some time before the deck will be glued in place for good. There is still too much to be done inside the hull.

Finisht the construction for the lower moonpool door and both garage doors. I still need to work out how I will control the top moonpool door, I currently have a servo connected reserved for this, though that might just as well be switched with a reduction motor with threaded rod.

The transceiver has now been placed permanently. There will be a second transceiver for controlling the lifeboats in the rear of the main superstructure in between all the fire mains and electrical connections to the superstructure.

Even the dive area will be quite full of electronics, though I do need to keep room in the middle since I need to be able to reach the power switch and rotary encoder for starting up the Pi. Since the program will run into errors if not all I2C devices are connected the dive area with it's electronics need to be in place for the Pi to be able to start and run the program, a hatch will provide access with the dive area in place.

Greetings Josse

Hello Jim.
Yes there were some pictures of shame!
I had the self same thought as you save that I would make one in the expanded polystyrene with a GRP shell on it. it will bolt on the bottom as I made some bushes with tapped holes I did this with a view to not only for display but to add an acrylic keel as you say paddle boats are a bit of drunken old ladies and do roll!

I found the extra depth and the external weighted keel did help but the final fix was to open up the slots in the paddle boxes, they would fill with water on one side and tilt it over. Non feahering paddles didn't help this.
Jim

Harry, thanks for your interest. However, I tried charging with and without the balance lead and as I said previously the cell tester showed no cell was down.
As the cheapest option I obtained a new battery. Attempting to charge that gave the same error. Conclusion, the charger was on the blink. Remedy buy a new charger 
Result all my batteries charged OK.
Martin, I hope that resolves your puzzlement.

Arno,
A great thanks for your quick reaction of kind comment.!!!


I'm so much satisfied with the clear pic of draining as greatly expected to do so.
Because in the early stages of trial runs of my first jet drive boat, cooling water wasn't necessarily drained/supplied sufficiently by which some brushless motors had been burned out..
But even this jet drive boat could be later improved successfully to drain well enough as seen in the following 2 pics, leading to a nice sailing performance with which I'm so satisfied.!!
I'm not a so-called speed mania,but had better know the ultimate performance of a model boat built with lots of efforts just like real ships/boats which have possibly been proved seriously and precisely in the trial runs before their deliveries, especially warships might be the cases..??    I usually have not operated my boats at full throttle, needless to say.

Kiyo

Looking good for a first sail, Kiyo!

Here are the pics of sailing at slow speed since this was the first to sail after completion.
I just checked how she behaved on the water and went so so as usual for a fast scale pla-model boat.
The most anxious point was if the brushless motors were well cooled by the water and this was also very well done as seen
in the pic No3. The pic No3 shows sufficient drain of water from both sides of hull for this level of speed.
In the next step on the water, she will receive mainly a test of speed and its behaviours.

Thanks for the info,


The seabex one I recently acquired is immaculate and has never been on the water so don't want to destroy any of it.


The Tito Neri I have is still to be built, new in box so maybe I will leave seabex alone and get some for Tito Neri

Hi
Seabbex 1 and Tito Nerio use diffrent thrusters.
Seabex 1 are the old Marix Thrusters . While they work well. The weight of a brass prop will add stress to the gears. Also they use an uncoventional way the prop attaches to the shaft. This would have to be replacted in the brass prop , or the shaft in the thruster replaced. Given there desigen and limited avaibality I would not go down the brass prop route.
If you want brass props maybe look at what Oceanworks have to offer Schottel Thruster (Z-Drive) Propulsion Combo set 90mm – Ocean Works
Never use a Titio Nerio thruster so can not give any advice.
John