Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

The Taycol site contains a fair bit of info on refurbishment (as well as several methods of reversing all the Taycol motors with current ESCs). Yours is a permanent magnet motor, so will have no problems with this anyway.


I would check several aspects of each motor, and maybe swap components to get the best result.


You want the best magnet.  Both are probably pretty poor by now. You need to pay attention to the commutator and brushes - the least worn commutator should be picked. The site contains instructions for making new brushes - you may find the old ones are workable. Try moving the shaft
up and down to see which end plate bearings are least worn.


Lubricate the brushes and run the motors with a bit of a load to see how much sparking you get. Sparks put a lot of interference out, both on the RF spectrum and down the power leads to the ESC. The site has advice on suppression. That will probably be your biggest problem. And remember metal-to-metal interference if you are using 27MHz...


Good luck!

David , If you get stuck , please note that I have a number of working and tested Taycols for sale . Also note that previously published information that certain models cannot be reversed is incorrect . From memory the one I managed to reverse is a Target . No problem in digging out the circuit to do this , though it was some considerable time ago.. Again from memory it involved removing the supplied links and feeding via external cables , thus allowing for the motor to be reversed .

Afternoon All


So back in the 70's my first build was a Sea Urchin, I recall it being smallest of the Keilcraft (?) range and so most affordable. Unfortunately that boat has been lost over the decades since, but I have thought about it from time to time...  So I plan to build one again, and try to keep it roughly of the 60's / 70's era when it was designed.


I see SLEC are making the kit available, so that's where the hull will be sourced.  I've also been looking into how to power it, and I like the idea of using a Taycol motor.  To that end I managed to pick up a pair of Taycol Comets on a well know auction site for just over £20.00, they are boxed but have been used and need some restoration as neither are running at the moment. They are the ungeared versions.

















I've done some initial reading up on the Taycol range, some references over past few years in Model Boats magazine, and the excellent resource for all things Taycol at http://taycol.tk/ ( [size=78%]http://taycol.tk/[/size][size=78%] )[/size]


The Comet uses a permanent magnet rather than being 'field wound' like most of the Taycol range so I think can be treated like a normal brushed motor, I'm sure the universe will make sure I regret my assumptions at a suitable point...


And in the spirit of winding back time.  The RC unit will be my old 4ch Fleet (Fleet Control Systems) Unit which dates to the early 80's, it will have a Corona 2.4Ghz module added (on it's way from China as I type...) to bring it up to date.  Also needed as the Taycols were I believe great at creating RF interference that should be handled better by 2.4Ghz systems.  Out of courtesy to everyone else on the lake I'll be adding suppression as part of the Taycol renovation..!


I did start out with a 2 channel Waltron RC on 27Mhz back in the day, but again it's been lost to time, so the Fleet is the oldest I have.





This is going to be a slow burn build with a few hurdles on the way I think.  I'd like to get at least one running Comet from the two units that I have, of course two would be better, depends if I need any donor parts.  Then get the RC updated and working before starting on the boat build.  That's current plan anyway.


Anyone who's worked on a Comet or can advise on refurbishing the Taycols in general, well input and advice would be gratefully received.  Same with the Fleet update, I've heard it's a good unit to take the upgrade, but would be good to hear from anyone who's actually done it.


We shall see...
David.

Afternoon All


Usual Tuesday update...  Not had as much time on the build as I'd hoped in past week.  I have now got the rear hatch fully sorted, it's been flattened and polished, been tweaked so it fits nicely, and has it's faux leather attached down the centre, I think Riva call it a 'slipway'.  I thought you launched a boat on a slipway, but maybe in Italy it's how you launch yourself into the water.





The boat itself is a bit of a mess at the moment, I've working through grades of abrasive discs to flatten off the varnish in areas where the varnish is fully cured, and desperately trying not to go down to bare wood anywhere. I thought this was an interesting pic, it's the stern after the initial 800 grit flattening, the dull areas are high spots, just shows how a surface that looked pretty flat to the eye is anything but flat.  So this was done several times til all the gloss areas had gone, then down through 1000, 2000 and 3000 grit.





This is current state of electronics boxes.


This the 8ch Rx with 8 additional PWM channels, and the Arduino sound systems with Amps plus vibration motor drivers.  Looks a bit of a mess, work in progress...  What can I say.  The Arduinos now all sit on pins so can be pulled when needed.





And port side.  This has the two power supplies for 12 and 5V, mounts for 4 x Arduinos Pro Minis, and is now sporting 12 PWM driven switches for various onboard functions. These are custom devices designed and built by my fellow Aquarama builder and good friend JohnB.





Hope to be able to post some shiny deck pics next time around.


Best regards to all.
David.

Hi ! New link
https://youtu.be/nHLYROuXLdw?si=8gz9RwETsOsLZ7eM

I mentioned my metal workshop. Here are reasons for my absence...


Triple expansion steam engine in bronze and stainless steel. 18 months solid work.


Photos upload but do not display.

Hi David, and thanks for the welcome advice.
Looks like this tug will need some smaller motors!
John

Hello !
Festinavi in pictures  :

Part 1 : the boats on display
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9uszfi
Part 2 : the electrics in action
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9uszjs
Part 3 : the dance of the sailboats
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x9uszmo

Hi John


Another Riva Aquarama, excellent decision. 


I haven't actually used the G2 Hydra 30 units, but on the face of it / based on the specs they look well suited to the Amati kit, I do think you'll need both units. In the same boat I'm using 2 x 3530 brushless (same 1100kv as the G2s) on 3S LiPos, restricted by the transmitter to 80% output, and they're still a bit overpowered and draw 10A maximum. I think if you put PropShop 1415 propellers on those G2 motors they would work well. Given the G2 motors should rev at similar speed they may use a but more current to spin those props at full speed, but I'd have thought well within limits, and most time is spent at lower speeds anyway.  I see the motor sizes are smaller in diameter and longer in length (compared to usual outrunners) and this will help let you keep the motors low in the hull, so better prop shaft angle too.


If you went for LiPo power, I'm not 100% clear whether the Hydra 30 ESC units can handle 3S liPo's as they exceed 12V when fully charged (12.6V ish), I'd have thought they would be OK but maybe someone else can clarify..?  Running the boat on 2S would reduce performance quite a bit.  LiPos help keep weight down and power up but I know some folks don't like them.


My main feedback with this kit is that it builds heavy as it was designed as a static display model.  Building for RC needs weight saving to be taken into account at every opportunity, especially up at the bow.


Look forward to seeing the build take shape..!
Best regards
David.

That is a really impressive photo! As I get older, my future projects will be smaller in size and weight as well, makes it easier to transport and handle. The SS Falcon is a step into that direction already