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Love that paintwork!   

Right, I dug out the instructions for my 1/16 Severn.  I positioned the rudders differently from the instructiions so I'll give you both mine and Speedline's measurements.  When I refer to the transom, I mean a line drawn perpendicular to the centre line at the centre of the transom.

Speedline say the rudders should be 60mm forward of the transom and 35mm each sde of the centre line.I have mine 40mm forward of the transom and 44mm each side of the centre line.
My props are 98mm apart, so 49mm each side of the centreline.   The centres of the A frame uprights are 110mm forward of the transom (mine matches Speedline on this) and the propshafts holes start (ie closest to the transom) 85mm forward of the centre of the A frame uprights.
Hope that makes some sense.Phil

Component  shop are another good source

Bit more progress, main and flight decks install, next will be to open up the access and start to design and install the electronics

The paint job is nearly finished and so far all went well. Tomorrow the decals with the depth markings will be applied. Then a layer of satin varnish will follow.

Greetings Everyone,
        The Lady K has now been collected and has gone to her new berth. Thanks again Roger, Enjoy.
                     Kind Regards,
                            Pete.

Hi AllThis month ( September) we had a small group of modellers from Germany that build our kits that made a visit to see the home of our kits. They stayed for 2 days and brought some models to sail in our test pond. In Germany model boat words they are well known HMS Toutou won the German nationals steering championship (F4A) Lis Terkol came second in the German nationals kit class (F4B) Vigiland came third in the German nationals kit class (F4B) Vigiland also achieved a bronze medal in the static kit class (C8) nationals in the Czech Republic. All achievements were this year 2025 The local Peterborough club members who had met them in the past at the Dortmund shows came along to pay a visit and many Berlinners where eaten A great time was had by all. look forward to the next visit video of the boats on the test pond herehttps://youtu.be/QopmVzqmJpA

Regards Deans Marine

I am currently building a Deans Marine MTB 488, and just wanted to say I found your build very helpful as the hulls are the same.  I used a couple of your ideas, using a pencil taped to a piece of wood to mark the 2mm line from the top of the hull and then the idea of using a piece of sandpaper on the same piece of wood to get the deck supports flat and consistent.  Worked really well and made it very easy to fit the decks.  The other idea was bending the chines and rubbing strakes around a soldering iron shaft.  Again worked perfectly and I was able to bend the 3mm ramin to the exact curve required before glueing.  I should really start a thread of my own for my build

Shows what good taste you have 😂🤣


How are you finding living in Scotland?


0:0 Saturday  🤬🤬

Afternoon Mark, thanks for the kind words, trying my best and having to make some parts several times before I'm happy.  Build timescale seems to be extending rather than closing in on a launch date..!


Some progress in the right direction to report.


I've been testing with the Hempel 599 two pack sealer ( https://www.mbfg.co.uk/hempel-epoxy-sealer.html ]





It is very thin, and I thinned it a shade (5%) further to improve penetration, and extend curing time, it's now workable for at least an hour, and solid in 24 hours.  Brushes on easily and is all absorbed, ideally so there is no 'shine' to the sealer once applied meaning it's all been absorbed.  I've since used it on the rear hatch, and the cockpit sides, very pleased with the result.  So I've also done a final sanding of the hull and deck ready for a sealing coat in next few days.  It's applied once, no overcoating and I'd like to apply it in one session.  I've already sealed the planing surface of the hull so the boat will sit in it's stand for application.  The epoxy sealer will become the base for varnishing.  (I used thinned Z-Poxy Finishing Resin for the 1/10th Aquarama, the Hempel is a lot thinner, and has a longer working time.)


So here the hatch and slipway is sealed, but not yet the surrounding mahogany.





Filled, sanded and rubbed over with isopropyl to degrease:





A sealing coat added to the planing surface:





Also been busy with the dashboard...  And getting a bit carried away I think.


All the gauges are now functional, as in the dials are correct and the pointers rotate, and there are 2.2g servos behind each, and the LEDs are in place within the dials, but not yet connected up.





I've got the code for the various dials working individually, now trying to integrate...





And the servos...





Tachos feed from the port and stbd ESC throttle position, the gearshifts which are dash mounted either side of the steering wheel as stalks are also functional and use same ESC feeds to know where to move.


Speedo is fed data from an onboard GPS. Fuel gauges, they take the voltage of one cell of their respective (port / stbd) LiPos via the balance lead, then give a servo deflection for a range of (at the moment) 3.5v to 4.2v, a dash light will turn from green to red if voltage reaches 3.6v.  And in the spirit of getting carried away, I may get the temp gauges running and displaying a value representing ESC temps.  That leaves just the Ammeters, I may just fudge those with an arbitrary deflection.  All the gauges do a full sweep on power up, then settle.  Once it's all running I'll put up a video.


This functionality will take 2 or 3 Arduino pro minis.  I think some electronics oriented folks could do it with less or alternative hardware...  I'll just be pleased to see it in action.


On the subject of electronics, I've decided to create two new cases and rework the contents, plans have changed and extended during the build.  I'm moving away from the MPX 6 pin connectors.  The new cases will be 3D printed and use 25 pin D-Sub connectors, more connections available, and more robust the the MPX connectors.


I'll report back when the sealer is all applied.


Very best regards to all.
David.