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I found this info online.  It may provide some useful specifications and historical adverts.  There is a picture of the ALCO generator (WWII), as well.
http://www.stuartturnersteam.com/Marine/Sirius/Sirius.html

I hope this is useful.
DocM

Bonjour Phil,Many thanks fo your reply  I was aware that this machine was for hydroplanes but is is so heavy, and the boiler has to be powerful to feed it at high speed, so...
I would be interested by more information on your boiler as I would have liked to see the one used with it during WW2.

Sorry to interrupt this thread, but certain grey's in one light in say the English Channel will change when you go south to maybe the Atlantic
Go to te Med....ha it's changed again, and it left in the same grey..... Don't even bother going further south as it will change again.
In the med the fire boats had much more blue on them (please don't ask which one)
So in answer in my opinion you will never be wrong


Or [size=78%]go boating in the dark......ah ha no one can complain  [/size]

Ca Va
None of my very old Stuart catalogs gives the bore or stroke, I do know that they used to advertise the engine as a racing hydroplane steam plant.....ha it's too heavy..but in the 30's it sort of worked (ish) it is the big version of the sun engine (also a racing engine)
With regards to oil, in the sump case I used car gear box oil, and steam oil in the normal way.
One point is these engines do not really have a drain point on the crankcase, I bored mine out to 3/8  32 (sorry cannot do that in metric) but large drain point after use very important.
Sorry not much help but I will keep going through my files.
On the boiler front, no longer than 8 inches x 4 inches (sorry may live here but my workshop is old school. )are you going to gas fire ?
You may need a mechanical pump, tic can be done on the back of the engine,
Any more help...ish let me know
I even have a boiler that maybe work for you...
Let me know

Thanks both for your help, how can something so simple be so complicated. lol


I will wait for a few more to comment and see how we go from there.

Thank you fore the clarification which I think makes perfect sense. As long as the old posts haven't been lost as they are a useful library.


Cheers


Geoff

Success! At least, good enough for me!


Thanks to Stan for his helpful phone calls. 

Traditionally I have used the old block and pencil method for drawing waterlines but Stan mentioned he used the plan to measure the waterline from the gunnels at various points along the length of the hull and place marks on the hull at the measured points.  You then apply masking tape to align with marks, using good old Mk 1 eyeball to ensure it is straight.  I used 6mm Tamiya tape from bow to short of the stern.

For round the stern and under the overhanging counter, I put a length of the 6mm tape on a bit of melamine and used a steel rule and Stanley knife to half its width to about 3mm - again thanks to Stan for his tip!  I then chocked up a spirit level with a laser light to align with the end of the 6mm tape and used that to mark the hull every 2cm or so around the counter.  The 3mm tape was the applied using these marks and went around the curves with no creasing.  After that it was just a case of fixing wider tape/newspaper to the 6mm/3mm tape and we were good to go.

The paint used was a chance buy spotted on the middle row at our local Aldi.  The colour is not quite right for red lead and it is a bit glossy when the can described it as Eggshell but for £1.50, I do not suppose I can complain.

The other point is that this is my first plank on frame model and I clearly should have spent more time preparing the bare hull.  I toyed with using automotive filler but eventually dismissed that as being too hard to rub down.  Next time, I will use some kind of filler maybe less hard than automotive but better than the polyfilla consistency the Balsa lite which I used before sheathing in fibreglass.  Applying fibreglass was also a first and there are some flaws where I will try to do better next time.

Cos he can.   


  Regards Ian.

Barley Grey was 'invented' around 1982, and its first use was on the FAA Sea Harriers of 809 NAS which was formed in a hurry to re-enforce the ones already with the task force.


Earlier greys may well have been Sea Grey Medium, or even Light Sea Grey. No, I've no idea why one colour is described one way round and the other the opposite, that's the MoD for you.

Hi Keith


Welcome to the complex world of RAF Marine Craft grey!
I believe it’s called Barley grey but if you search that it looks too light as most late 1990 RAF fast jets were painted this and it’s definitely too light. I’d suggest looking for a sea grey (Humbrol M27) is closest in my opinion.
Black is standard night black
White is Bright white
Red is often referred to as Signal Red or roundel red.


Hope this helps