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[flybobby]

Any tips out there regarding filler? ???

I am looking for a multipurpose filler for mostly plastic and wood, it must be extra tough when set, easy to work with, and easy to sand back super smooth!

On reading this back I have described car body filler which I have not yet tried! ::)

I have tried wood filler which tends to shrink, and doesn't like plastic!  I have tried knifeing putty which is a dog to work!
I have tried gel coat filler, which goes off like a gun and is tough as old boots, but trying to get a smooth finish is a labour I dont enjoy and eats up too much valuable time. ::)

Maybe the perfect filler is yet to be invented!
Any top tips will be greatfully recieved

[ambernblu]

... I guess you will have already tried milliput??

I know its not great for very large areas, but you can smooth almost to a finish with the application of water, leaving very little to do when its gone off - it is certainly tough, although I find it easy to get an excellent finish with wet and dry! It paints extremely well too!

[flybobby]

... I guess you will have already tried milliput??

I know its not great for very large areas, but you can smooth almost to a finish with the application of water, leaving very little to do when its gone off - it is certainly tough, although I find it easy to get an excellent finish with wet and dry! It paints extremely well too!

I have seen people mention milliput before, but have never looked into it! ::)

Where can I get some?  Thanks

[flybobby]

I have just checked out the milliput website, looks like the dogs undercariage!
I have ordered some off ebay, give it a whirl.

Thanks

[ambernblu]

... most model shops should stock it - I used to make wargame figure masters with it (many moons ago!) so would buy it at wargames shows, although it used to last me for ages and it does tend to have a good shelf life!

Its also referred to as Epoxy putty - a two-part putty that performs like plastercine when properly mixed (bear in mind its an irritant - I wear lab gloves these days when mixing it!) but will go rock hard - evn faster with the application of some heat - even a hair dryer will do the job, although if there are other heat-sensitive materials about, then don't - just let it dry au naturale!

If you mix too much, I put remainders in the feezer - to use again at some later day!  

On my 'box' it says The Milliput Co., Unit 5, The Marian, Dolgellau, LL40 1UU Tel 01341 422562 - haven't checked if they on the internet. Cheers, Brian

[dougal99]

Have you tried the plastic fillers from Humbrol and Revell? I have found them to be very good on both plastic and wood; easy to work and manipulate. I wouldn't recommend them for filling the Grand Canyon though unless you have deep deep pockets

HTH

Doug

[old shrimper]

any tips on using 2 part polyester base car bog ?

i found it is VERY sensitive to mixing ratios    i poofteenh not enough hardener and it wont go off (very big pain in the BUTT, trying heat lamps at the moment ) a tad to much and its gone of while your mixing 
is ther something a lot more workable that is water proof and epoxy resin will stick to ?

[heritorasphodel]

Along the same lines, is the hardener that comes with stuff like p38 a catalyst or an accelerator?


Andrew

[Bryan Young]

There's a specially made filler for models made by a firm called Squadron Products (Texas).
Two sorts: White Putty and Green Putty. I'm not sure what the difference between the 2 is,apart from the colour as I've only used the white version. But I've been told that the Green is slower setting. The White is very fast setting. Files and paints well Most model shops should sell it. BY.

[essex2visuvesi]

+1 on squadron white putty.  good stuff.  Also revel plasto is worth a look for filling plastic parts

[Netleyned]

Three posts today about filler and nothing from Mr Filler (Stavros)
Read his posts about filler he is a proffessional.
Whatever filler you use remember they are not made for
model boats and they like to suck up moisture so seal,seal,seal.

Ned

[Mrs Stav]

I am here LURKING HA HA
 
Ditch all the P38 and their likes and use EASY LIGHT or TOP STOP have a look at my Vintage Model Boats Rescue Boat later on tonight and see what I am using on it,just poped in for lunch and back to the shed to finish some painting
 
 
Dave

[old shrimper]

so is car bog IN the P38 category ?

[Stavros]

yes...I think there is a product called Bondo in Aus what you really need for modeling is what they call 2 pack stopper...it is a 2 part fine filler that mixes like car body filler BUT is not in the same league,it is super fine and is a sheer pleasure to rub down and work with.
 
 
Dave

[oldiron]

yes...I think there is a product called Bondo in Aus what you really need for modeling is what they call 2 pack stopper...it is a 2 part fine filler that mixes like car body filler BUT is not in the same league,it is super fine and is a sheer pleasure to rub down and work with.
 
 
Dave

Dave

 This is the stuff we use here in Canada. Sounds like your description. Its a very fine filler with a hardner.

John

[Stavros]

That will DO NICELY my friend 
 
 
Dave
 
 
 

[old shrimper]

yes...I think there is a product called Bondo in Aus what you really need for modeling is what they call 2 pack stopper...it is a 2 part fine filler that mixes like car body filler BUT is not in the same league,it is super fine and is a sheer pleasure to rub down and work with.
 
 
Dave

hi Dave
i assume  the BONDO is OK to put epoxy resin over ?
where would i get the 2 pack stopper from ?
thanks bob

[Stavros]

I think so BUT TBH I would try a small bit first,Have you got any Body shop suppliers over there or car acc shops try them
 
How about here
 
 
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Lightweight-Body-Filler-500g.aspx?pid=287584&menuFrom=40403#Description
 

Dave

[old shrimper]

i have this ,it is water clean up ( no other details on the container ) i used it on another static model it was great to sand and painted it over with enamel paint OK
i was told at the  fiber glass shop that the epoxy resin my not go off over the top of it as it may draw the moisture out of the filler and stay tacky
would this be true ? as i saw a u tube video on how to glass over balsa on an plane cowling and it said water based filler was OK
JUST WONDERING
cheers

[old shrimper]

I think so BUT TBH I would try a small bit first,Have you got any Body shop suppliers over there or car acc shops try them
 
How about here
 
 
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/SCA-Lightweight-Body-Filler-500g.aspx?pid=287584&menuFrom=40403#Description
 

Dave

the SCA one you linked me to is the exact one im having trouble with very finaky on mix ratios and as hard as hell to sand by hand

[Stavros]

The only thing I can suggest to you then is to look on Ebay uk and get it shipped out
 
 
Dave

[old shrimper]

i have this ,it is water clean up ( no other details on the container ) i used it on another static model it was great to sand and painted it over with enamel paint OK
i was told at the  fiber glass shop that the epoxy resin my not go off over the top of it as it may draw the moisture out of the filler and stay tacky
would this be true ? as i saw a u tube video on how to glass over balsa on an plane cowling and it said water based filler was OK
JUST WONDERING
cheers

I HAVE successfully glassed over this filler but i used a coat of 2 x pack epoxy high build undercoat over it first 

[ldv6]

Hello! I know this is an older thread, but there is something that fulfills all the conditions in post #1, and then some!


Has anyone tried epoxy+talcum powder?


I stumbled upon this while I was searching for a filler that I could use over expanded polystirene. Polyester car filler was out of the question because of the stirene it emits during hardening, which in turn dissolves the foam boards that I used for the construction of the plug for my composite boat hull.


I came upon the talcum filled epoxy resin by chance, and this has been a great discovery. The epoxy laminating resin is prepared in the usual way by mixing with the hardener in the required quantities and then talcum powder is immediately added in small quantities while stirring continuously until the desired viscosity of the filler is achieved. I use Letoxit epoxy which is an aircraft certified resin and it can be mixed with a number of hardeners in order for different setting times to be achieved. The hardener I use is the fastest one and I still get 40 minutes of pot time, enough for me to apply the filler however I want despite my clumsiness and lack of experience in working with fillers.  Talcum is one of the softest minerals, so the filler containing it is easy to apply, easy to spread, easy to lay thin or thick, easy to sand and is more than strong enough thanks to the epoxy. This filler is not brittle like the polyester one and unlike it is a great base for epoxy (actually it is great as a base for whatever comes to my mind except polyeter or vinilester resins).


I get the quantities of talcum I need in pharmacies, especially the ones that are in a hospital. Talcum is used sometimes to dry the backs of long still patients so I can get a bag of 0,5 kg, more than enough for modelling work. Of course there are other sources as well, but this has proven convenient for me.