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[boxturner]

Hi
   I am new to both model boats and to the forum.Hoping someone out there can HELP.
    I have a 30amp electronise E.S.C ( not B.E.C) FR30HX---I have wired this in as per the Electronise instructions.
     The rest of my equipment is---(i)-R/X Futaba R136F
                                               (2)MFA Torpedo 850 motor
                                                (3)12 Volt gell cell battery
                                                (4)4.8 volt R/X pack
     Every time I connect the 12 volt battery the in line 30 amp fuse blows-this happens when I have the T/X and the R/X switched on ( in the right order)
        The motor runs ok when connected direct to the battery.
         The rudder is working perfectly.
     I am fast running out of 30 amp fuses and am in danger of blowing my own built in one as well
        Please help before I go up in smoke

[DickyD]

Silly question, but have you got your battery connections the right way round ?

[boxturner]

Hi Richard
             Yes I was very carefull to get that right.Can hardly get that wrong with the red and black leads on the brand new E.S.C

[John W E]

hi ya there

Just had a quick look at the specs of this motor - for the MFA850 - and it says that its stall current is 40 amps ...... normally when a motor kicks off, it has a tendancy to draw a lot more amps at the beginning and this is what may be popping your fuses.

Although it says in the motor specs that its free running amperage is only 1.9 - I still have a feeling this motor may be a little bit big for these speed controllers.

Unless, it is popping the fuses when you actually put the boat in the water then, it is definitely a case of motor too big for speed controller....

aye
john e
bluebird

[boxturner]

Hi John
 many thanks for your quick response to my problem. The fuse is blowing before the motor is operating-- is your point about the motor still valid in this circumstance.

[barriew]

A suggestion - can you try the motor direct on the battery, but with your fuse in the positive line?

Barrie

PS the answer to your question to Bluebird is yes. Starting is when the maximum current is drawn.

[John W E]

hi there

What I would suggest is - if it is at all possible - try the same setup - but only using 6 volt .... if it still blows fuses; next stage would be, if poss, try a smaller motor - say a 540 if possible.    If it still pops fuses with this scenario, then, we may be looking at a serious short somewhere.

I believe as someone has already answered part of your question regarding motor startup.... if you can imagine - just to put it another way - we are going to have to bump start a motor vehicle by pushing it to start - first of all we must put all of our energy and effort into actually getting the vehicle or the motor to move.    Once the vehicle is actually moving, we require less energy/effort to keep it moving  until of course we take our foot off the clutch or put it into gear.

Seriously though that is when we require a rather larger speed controller, as in amperage capacity, to cater for the initial start up.

aye
john e
bluebird

[boxturner]

John
      Have already tried a 6volt --with the same result I will try a smaller motor when I get time.If none of this works would I be advised to change the motor or the ESC-- I realise now that I should have gone for A ESC with B.E.C.

                         Frank

[nightowl2912]

Hi boxturner, welcome to the forum,
i have the same esc with the new 700 BB and mine was blowing fuses too at about 3/4 stick, iv removed the fuse and it runs OK

Andy

p.s. the esc is 30 amp. continuous load rating in either direction.
90 amp. short term stall rating. (continuous MOSFET rating)*
540 amp. peak rating

[John W E]

hi there

It is not really advisable to remove the fuse which protects your ESC (electronic speed controller) as a 50 pence fuse is a lot cheaper to replace than an expensive Electonize speed controller.

Best find the problem first before removing/disregarding the fuse  :)

aye
john e
bluebird

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Have you tried the ESC without the motor connected ??

ken

[DickyD]

Any chance of a photo of the electrics ?

[mick]

Hello, I have the same setup, my 30amp fuse is 'inline' on the red powerlead between battery and FR30HX. A photo would help. Mick.

[mick]

Just a thought, what type of plugs are you using...I use Tamiya to avoid a 'wrong way round' connection

[John W E]

hi there
Have you put a fuse in line between the motor and the esc ? if so remove it  , and just leave the fuse in that is between the battery and the esc 

aye

john e

[sheerline]

Refer back to tug kenny's question, try eliminating the motor from the circuit or hang a different motor on the end to see if your setup is actually working correctly... if it does, blame the motor!

[debssnal]

Hi
   I am new to both model boats and to the forum.Hoping someone out there can HELP.
    I have a 30amp electronise E.S.C ( not B.E.C) FR30HX---I have wired this in as per the Electronise instructions.
     The rest of my equipment is---(i)-R/X Futaba R136F
                                               (2)MFA Torpedo 850 motor
                                                (3)12 Volt gell cell battery
                                                (4)4.8 volt R/X pack
     Every time I connect the 12 volt battery the in line 30 amp fuse blows-this happens when I have the T/X and the R/X switched on ( in the right order)
        The motor runs ok when connected direct to the battery.
         The rudder is working perfectly.
     I am fast running out of 30 amp fuses and am in danger of blowing my own built in one as well
        Please help before I go up in smoke

hi from what you are saying,you have a faulty esc.i take it from what you say the fuse blows before you turn the motor,and the motor runs ok wiht out the esc.if you take one of the connections of the motor switch on rx and tx if it blows the fuse it is the esc.
kind regards
Alan

[tony23]

Check your wiring again when your blowing fuses of this high amperage straight away you have a short somewhere nothing to do with motor and speed controller sizes.

[barry park]

Hi
   I am new to both model boats and to the forum.Hoping someone out there can HELP.
    I have a 30amp electronise E.S.C ( not B.E.C) FR30HX---I have wired this in as per the Electronise instructions.
     The rest of my equipment is---(i)-R/X Futaba R136F
                                               (2)MFA Torpedo 850 motor
                                                (3)12 Volt gell cell battery
                                                (4)4.8 volt R/X pack
     Every time I connect the 12 volt battery the in line 30 amp fuse blows-this happens when I have the T/X and the R/X switched on ( in the right order)
        The motor runs ok when connected direct to the battery.
         The rudder is working perfectly.
     I am fast running out of 30 amp fuses and am in danger of blowing my own built in one as well
        Please help before I go up in smoke

Thats what I like!  Lots of detail to save the drama and hilarity that was here. http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=3954eb6cdb272c7e 
Do any testing with the lowest supply voltage possible.And run through continuity checks beforehand.
Use a suitable value resistor ,say 100 ohm @ 10watt or a 12 volt @ 10 watt headlamp bulb in place of the +ve line fuse as a short will cause voltage to drop across the resistor and not the esc
Other tests if it passes that one...............
Bulb in the fuse line going on ,with no throttle, is a sure sign its damaged.
You can quite safely repeat that
1 Torpedo 850 on 12v will not stall at 40 amp.It's more than double that.An 850 can blow a 30 amp fuse after a few minutes if prop is big and there is no fault.
2 If you want a resettable fuse it's here http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1345958
You can put two in parallel to boost rating. Good for scores of operations.
3 Keep the fuse or bulb or resistor in the power line until you've found the problem.
4 You can put another lower power bulb in place of the motor with a high power bulb(lower resistance and volt drop)and power up and test
5 You can diagnose damaged equipment with a meter and a bit of knowhow. Fiirst remove from esc boat and do a continuity test on the red black with a digital multimeter.(These cost £5 and you get them at shows and from Maplin)
A short circuit (0 ohm measurement)means faulty and common where esc's have a 2-pole relay.
Two pole relays show shorting because you can see the opposite poles touching if the relay case is clear
6 On the diode range you can pick up blown transistors.If it is an H-bridge FET type there are four diodes to test.
You do a diode test between red-blue red-yellow blue-black yellow-black.
In each case it should be high impedance one way and ~ 0.6 volt the other.
7 With the motor unconnected does the fuse blow? If so you have a fault.
8 Do any powered up testing with a 12 volt headlamp bulb at the lowest supply voltage possible.The lowest possible fuse or circuit breaker.
9 An external 1 amp BEC is an ideal test accessory as it gives out 5 volt and shows short circuit faults by "shutdown"without causing damage to drive stages.
That's all for now
Barry Park

 

[DickyD]

Why a link to the forum index ?

[boxturner]

Hi all
        WOW somuch advice-- many thanks to all---upto nowI have--
          1)Run the motor direct from the 12v battery through a fuse --it did not blow
          2)Disconnected the motor- turned on the T/X and the R/X --connected the 12v battery and the fuse still blew.
            Am I now right in assuming that the ESC is faulty?

                     Frank

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

That's the word you're looking for.             

ken

[John W E]

Hi there boxturner

Please could you ring Electronize on their new telephone number which is 0121 3087411

and ask for Dave.    Explain to Dave exactly what has happened with this speed controller - and after you have spoken to Dave - no doubt he will make you the same offer which he has just relayed to me - if there is a fault, in the actual electronics of the speed controller, it will be fixed free of charge - if it is a fault, of mis-use........there will obviously be a charge.....

let us know how you get on.

aye
john e
bluebird

[boxturner]

Many thanks John I will try that and let you know


                     Frank

[boxturner]

John
       Rang Dave Mainprize --he was very helpful but could not say what he thought was wrong .He did suggest that the esc may have a fault and agreed to check it over for me .It will be in the next post.He did assure me that the esc would cope with the 850 motor.Many thanks to you and to all the others who chipped in.

                                                               Frank