Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[murphy1570]

Hello folks,
I wonder if any fellow member can help me out with advice on how to get a Hitec SP-610 RF esc to work, I have had it for a few years now but it has never been used and for the life of me I cant get it to work, it is rated at 6/10A and 6-8.4V. As a relative beginner to ship modelling and being completely illiterate when it comes to all things electronic I would appreciate any advice or help re getting the dammed thing to work ie: size of gell cell battery to use with it to run a Stingray 500 with a 2.5:1  MFA motor rated at 3-9.6v D.C.,which I hope to use to power the trawler "Hellen" some 30" long.
Thanks in advance, John.

[stallspeed]

You need a receiver battery and the main battery would have to be 6volts if it is a gel type.

Check your batteries,all the esc contacts and fuse - the fuse, on occasion,would melt the plastic holder to the point where contact was broken.
Centre the esc neutral trim and if a servo works in its place then the esc should work.If you get the esc working you can zero the trim later.

If those measures did not show the problem you can test the integrity of the drive transistors(battery removed) with a meter on the diode range.

[OMK]

Murphy1570, since you have already confessed that you are illiterate when it comes to all things electronic, then my take is that any suggestion of diodes/meters and integrity of drive transistors has left you even more purplexed, right? Don't let it bother you - you're not on your own. Some boffins would have you believe that electronics is more complex than it really is and just love to show off their electrical know-how. Take solice in the fact that most electrically-minded folk are often more illiterate than yourself - especially when it comes to explaining things to those without any knowledge or interest in electronics..
To be honest, information for your particular ESC is a bit thin on the ground, ergo, any info' I might offer here is merely shooting from the hip. But an ESC is an ESC, and pretty much all modern ESCs work on the same principle. Like I said, I'm not familiar with your unit, so I'm guessing that yours has two wires going to the motor, two more wires going to the battery and a 3-wire lead which plugs into your receiver. Right so far?
Does your unit have a small button you need to press in order to set its operating parameters? Does it have any sort of glowing indicators? Does it have any holes in the casing in which to make adjustments with a screwdriver?... etc.
It would help heaps if you could maybe post a photo of your unit and/or your present installation. The worse scenario being that your ESC is indeed a duffer, but before fearing the worse, a few simple checks are all that's needed in order to ascertain if it's a go'er or not. It may even be that you simply have a wrong connection somewhere, so if you could put up a photo, perhaps we could take it from there.                           

[dougal99]

Murphy 1570

Here is a scan of the instructions foryour ESC (you didn't say if you had them) I have one which is getting on for 10 years old and still works well. I had another which failed one day without warning, fortunately the boat was still on the bank - the motor just got faster and faster.

I hope you can read the scan it looks OK this end - you may have to load it into some photo software and enlarge. Any questions on it just ask.

Doug

[Seaspray]

Just have a little clean up of the connectors / pins and the holes they go into, are clear straight bright in colour. Wires to connections  a little easy tug to make sure they have a good sturdy connection. Follow instructions if you have em and give it a little time to come to back into life. Having 3 parts in C & G 244 electronics I found most of the time dirt, bad connections, and the atmosphere around the  item or unit was what created the problem,sometimes operator error. But not in your case If there is a mechanical attachment to the electronics is is almost 9 times out of ten its is it that has gone down. making a fault back up the line further.

When you get it going and working o.k. With your fingers feel to see if there is any hot connections / wires across the hole circuit, from the battery leads right through to the motor. then try it with a load on the motor.

[malcolmfrary]

When it says Max voltage 8.4, it really means it.  There are components in there that are right on the limit, and overheat with more volts.  It does not contain a BEC, so needs a separate RX battery.  No little buttons or LED indicators to create confusion being pre-computer control, the centre neutral is set by using a small plastic bladed screwdriver (or length of plastic rod carved to that shape or the toothpick out of a Swiss Army knife)  VERY VERY GENTLY (I had one to repair that had been "adjusted" by someone more used to using a pneumatic road drill by the look of things).  Set your chosen neutral on the TX stick, tweak until the motor stops.