Topic: 1/12 Salcombe Tamar (Read 7839 times)

CJ1 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 25, 2011, 05:36:31 PM »

Here's the first of the trim tabs assembled, but not cleaned up yet.

Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #36 on:** March 12, 2011, 06:51:49 PM »

...and the Transom exhaust outlets.
You've got to hand it to Adrian at Speedline, when you can finally work out how his parts go together, they are a treat. Though to be fair, he did supply good instructions for this part!

It seems a pity to have to plate or paint the brass work.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #37 on:** March 23, 2011, 04:47:55 PM »

Quote from: triumphjon on February 04, 2011, 09:25:53 PM

as oposed to spraying your parts "chrome " could you not get them nickle chrome plated ?

Having now asked lots of electroplaters across the UK, most said that the parts were too small for them, and the best quote I have had so far for the job, of those who could do it, was £150!
Anyone know anything I don't know? That's too high for me and I think I'll go down the spray paint route.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #38 on:** April 05, 2011, 06:14:37 PM »

Prior to painting the hull, I had a go at marking the waterline last night.
So that I will know where it is through the first coats of primer, I decided to bite the bullet, measure it from above, below and sideways to make sure it was in the right place and then lightly scored it into the glass fibre.
First I marked out on the hull the exact position of the waterline at the bow and the two rear quarters. Then using these, I set the boat up square on it's stand on my flatest worktop so that the three marks were all exactly the same height above the bench. I put masking tape around the hull/stand join to keep the hull in that position. I used an engineer's combination set with a dental probe attached, which sat squarely on the bench and was able to slide around the clean worktop scribing a neat line into the hull.
I then scored a second line above this to mark out the white boot-top stripe between the two. This setup can reach into the area around the hard chines forward, giving the correct width for the boot-top in that undercut.

Chris

stoney · « **Reply #39 on:** April 05, 2011, 10:36:36 PM »

I used a Laser for the waterline very quick and easy

Paul

CJ1 · « **Reply #40 on:** April 06, 2011, 09:04:59 AM »

Quote from: stoney on April 05, 2011, 10:36:36 PM

I used a Laser for the waterline very quick and easy

Paul,
Good tip.
I tried that first and, as you say, very quick and easy. However I was concerned about having to remark it after each coat of paint. On my full size boat, repainting the antifouling is easy as the waterline is moulded in to the hull, so I thought I would try this more permanent technique.

CJ1 · « **Reply #41 on:** June 17, 2011, 12:06:00 AM »

And so the painting begins....
I've painted in the white waterline first so that it looks bright white rather than painted over red or blue; I 'm not sure if this is a good idea now. I'm relying on Tamiya masking tape to bail me out later on this one!

The antifouling on the Salcombe lifeboat is red, so it's Halfords red primer straight from the can. It looks a bit orange in the bottom photo, but looks right in the flesh.

Chris

colin · « **Reply #42 on:** June 17, 2011, 05:53:09 AM »

I have looked at this site it may be of intrest with rtegard to the plating of small parts videos aare impresive
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php

Regards
Colin

flundle · « **Reply #43 on:** June 17, 2011, 12:40:04 PM »

The Tamar is looking great and your obviously enjoying it. I tried to make the exhausts out of stainless but it is so hard a materiel it is not possible to bend the exhaust sides properly. Shame, it would have looked look great.
Be warned about some chrome paints etc because when the are lacquered they can loose the chrome effect and look just like silver paint. Some chrome acrylics done last very long in the water either. Bit of a so and so really.

6705russell · « **Reply #44 on:** June 17, 2011, 12:50:18 PM »

Blimey Adrian its good to see you are still about, thought you had emigrated after not replying to my dozen or so e-mails????

Russ

flundle · « **Reply #45 on:** June 17, 2011, 02:00:50 PM »

Hi Russ.
Its all been a bit tricky lateley. As you know, I work full time (or did till last week) for BAe and have spent some time away from home. I also had another poorly spell then made redundant so all in all, since November last year things have not been good but, I think were back together again now.
I start with Rolls-Royce next month and that means I'm home very night so bum back in gear at last.

I hope to keep in touch a bit through this site too.

Number 6 · « **Reply #46 on:** June 17, 2011, 04:51:49 PM »

Good to see you back posting on Mayhem Adrian. Hope you're feeling better? I got made redundant last October and have still not found full time work, it's not easy is it. Looking forward to your thoughts and input on the builds and topics on here. I should be starting my 1/12 Severn sometime this year, might need a few bits off you when I finally get started, it'll be Holyheads, 17-41 Christopher Pearce. Cheers, Dave.

17-21 · « **Reply #47 on:** June 17, 2011, 06:08:32 PM »

Quote from: colin on June 17, 2011, 05:53:09 AM

I have looked at this site it may be of intrest with rtegard to the plating of small parts videos aare impresive
http://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php

Regards
Colin
I have done this one myself it works OK on flat brass sheet, but you really have to get it clean first, and then polish it before the chrome will take, I have also tried the professional chrome spray paint, and again works OK on larger areas, but as most of the items are small, you don't get the shine, so just went for a spay in the end.

Phil.

CJ1 · « **Reply #48 on:** June 30, 2011, 01:54:25 PM »

Hi fellow Speedline Tamar builders!

I am stuck with Adrian's Forward Escape Hatch, part 65.

Can anyone explain how they used the parts supplied to get the finished result, preferably with a photo!

thanks in frustration,
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 30, 2011, 07:13:01 PM »

In the meantime, the first coats of blue paint go on the hull.

I'm using Halfords rattle cans. Ford Galaxy Blue. Interestingly, the first and third cans gave really nice, smooth even coats. The second, middle can was rubbish! The paint felt thicker than the others and was a really poor spray pattern. So I just used it for build-up coats and rubbed it down well. I got two coats from each can, so here we are 5 coats on.

It's a really nice finish....so do I risk one more coat?.....

Chris

Number 6 · « **Reply #50 on:** June 30, 2011, 07:18:10 PM »

It's looking nice, I think if it was mine and it was a good finish I'd leave it at that, quit while you're ahead! Dave.

17-21 · « **Reply #51 on:** July 01, 2011, 07:02:14 AM »

Chris please see photos, but you will need to make up the inner surround as yet again its been missed from the kit.

Your spray job is fine

got to 2nd Dave's comments on that, if you are happy then leave to harden off

derekwarner_decoy · « **Reply #52 on:** July 01, 2011, 07:36:25 AM »

Chris J asks....... "so do I risk one more coat?" .....

5 coats & a great surface finish

...I would not risk it.......let it cure then remove the masking..........

........Derek

CJ1 · « **Reply #53 on:** July 01, 2011, 08:44:26 AM »

Quote from: 17-21 on July 01, 2011, 07:02:14 AM

Chris please see photos, but you will need to make up the inner surround as yet again its been missed from the kit.

Thanks for the photos, exactly what I needed. I thought those parts were missing! I can crack on now.

I've been very good and not gone into the workshop and fiddled with the paint job! I'll leave it over the weekend to harden. I've learnt my lesson with masking tape and now only use Tamiya at the paint edge with normal "HomeB&Qit-all" cheap stuff over the top.

Thanks guys.
Chris

flundle · « **Reply #54 on:** July 05, 2011, 08:36:59 PM »

Looks super. Did you stop at 5?

Bad news for me I'm afraid. I START WORK TOMORROW!

CJ1 · « **Reply #55 on:** July 05, 2011, 09:06:26 PM »

Yes, I took everyone's advice and stopped at 5 coats of paint.

Then I had to peel off the masking tape, which has been on for three weeks. So...hands up all those who love Tamiya masking tape!! A perfect edge. I used the technique advocated by someone on the "Painting, Finishing and Care" section who said to peel the tape back on itself as you removed it. I've not used this tape before and It's really not like any other. Gorgeous to use.

OK advert over. I pre-painted the waterline in white before the blue and it worked well, so I'll post a picture when I've finished the antifouling too. Thanks to everyone who has posted their experiences on Meyhem. It's really helped.

Chris

ps flundle, sorry about the work thing!

Number 6 · « **Reply #56 on:** July 05, 2011, 09:11:46 PM »

I'll second that about Tamiya masking tape, not the cheapest, but the best I've used so far, Dave.

Spook · « **Reply #57 on:** July 06, 2011, 12:22:11 PM »

I've been using 3M masking tape and wish I hadn't - not very good.

CJ1 · « **Reply #58 on:** July 06, 2011, 01:26:30 PM »

Martin,
I've always used "Family Safe" when adding images. I've noticed this over the past few days all over Meyhem, even when looking at old posts.

But feel free to delete any of my photo posts! I suspect the problem is with the "Postimage.org" website.
Chris

Guy Bagley · « **Reply #59 on:** July 06, 2011, 01:53:17 PM »

i used family safe, but still got the naughty advert, surely its the picture we are uploading which we are stating is family safe - not the trashy pop up ads on the host site ?

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #60 on:** July 06, 2011, 02:43:06 PM »

A quick web search reveals it's now a known problem - I've now uninstalled " Simple Image Upload "

To upload photos to your post:

Resize and Upload to Mayhem:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23.msg2630#msg2630
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=23.msg36#msg36

Photobucket:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2277.msg108900#msg108900

CJ1 · « **Reply #61 on:** July 06, 2011, 04:39:53 PM »

If you open any picture on Meyhem in PostImage.org, there is a "report abuse or request deletion" option bottom right. If you click on that, you can send an e-mail to them.

I have just sent one telling them that their adverts are inappropriate and I won't use their website until changed. If enough people do the same they may get the message....yeh, I know....and Pigs will fly, but it's worth a try!

Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #62 on:** July 07, 2011, 09:13:31 AM »

I don't know what you've done Martin, but it worked. The pictures have lost the naughty adverts! Thank you.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #63 on:** July 07, 2011, 12:18:44 PM »

Photos of the de-masked hull. I'll leave it to harden now and crack on with the cabin exterior.

Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #64 on:** August 16, 2011, 05:59:04 PM »

I've started making all those little bits that adorn the cabin sides, starting from the pointy end.

I bit the bullet and remade the forward facing comms. box supports (underneath the windows) out of styrene sheet to a more realistic size. Sorry Adrian, your laser cut parts are fabulous, but I couldn't see how to make those the right size this time. They still seem too big but the perspex comms. boxes that fit on them are so well made I'm going to use them anyway.

Then I came across these. They are part of SA60. The 1/2 round one on the left is the forward end of the boat hook support, no problem, but what is the 1/4 round one on the right? I can't find it on the Speedline plans nor the RNLI plans. Any ideas anyone, Adrian?

Chris

justboatonic · « **Reply #65 on:** August 17, 2011, 12:46:21 PM »

Great looking build.

I've toyed with the idea of getting one of these kits of the Tamar as I like big scale models. But, there's a lot of fiddly brasswork that needs soldering as can be seen in some of the pics which puts me off. That's a real shame.

CJ1 · « **Reply #66 on:** August 17, 2011, 01:45:03 PM »

Thank you.

You are right that there is a lot of small fiddly soldering to do. However, this is my first attempt at this sort of soldering, and so far, it's not going too badly. One piece defeated me totally and so I resorted to superglue, and was able to back it up (unseen I hope) with a piece of glass fibre scrim for strength! I won't say which bit, but will wait and see if anyone can spot it later!

So it's not impossible, you end up with a new skill and the result is really satisfying. I've learnt to not get de-moralised looking at the small parts, think it through first, clean everything twice and then just set-to. Philsrcmodels website has some good tips on holding the bits together while you solder, and his ideas helped me a lot; thank you Phil.

Chris

Les · « **Reply #67 on:** August 17, 2011, 06:36:43 PM »

I'm pretty sure the two pieces you are questioning are both for the boat hook ends. All lifeboats have two different boathooks. The one mounted on the port side is white and has, if I remember correctly two hooks, so the part with the two radiused corners is the one for that. The other starboard boathook has a single hook and a fend off piece so this fits into the piece with the single corner radius to the lower side. The hook ends are always towards the bow. The other end of the boathooks are retained in a channel type of fitting, deep enough for a retaining pin or drop pin to keep the boathook in place.

Hope it helps

Les

CJ1 · « **Reply #68 on:** August 17, 2011, 10:24:46 PM »

Les,
Thank you for that; good answer. I'd worked out the channel type fitting aft and the stbd forward one, so that really helps.
Chris

CJ1 · « **Reply #69 on:** August 19, 2011, 12:26:24 PM »

Les,
I just been to the RNLI in Poole and they kindly let me take photos of exactly what you described. It's all clear now. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
Chris

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Author Topic: 1/12 Salcombe Tamar (Read 7839 times)

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flundle

flundle

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flundle

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Spook

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