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[jenkins]

I stumbled across the springers this week and have decided to build one once I finish my current boat.  I have someone who is going to howes for me and I have a few questions about a few bits and bobs. I am going to meet standard rules.

1. I need water cooling do I need a pump? If so any suggestions.
2. I am going to get http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/RadioControl/viewProduct.php?ProdID=1232 is the servo in it powerful enough for the rudder?
3. Is it best to have a direct drive or a gearbox? If a gearbox what ratio?
4. I have decided to use two of these http://www.howesmodels.co.uk/RadioControl/viewProduct.php?ProdID=1568 as the batteries which is what most people appear to use. But what about ESC I have never used one before. (Current boat is two hacked up servos) A lot of posts on the forum recommend http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/speed.php any particular reason why they are recommended ? But as far as I can tell there is no wire from them for the receiver so would I just run a wire from the batteries to the receiver and the ESC ?

I will hopefully start next month when I get some wood. I am thinking on what to do for the top.

Thanks

[toesupwa]

Welcome to the Springer madhouse!

1. No, Just an inlet tube behind the prop (in front of the rudder) will 'drive'enough water in to the system.
2. Yes
3. Either. A 550 motor will be enough or gearbox of 2:1 or 3:1
4. I have no experience of the Action ESC's, but it looks as if they have a BEC (takes power from the batteries for both the motor and the Rx)... or go for a Mtroniks Viper ESC.

Hope that helps

[Timo2]

Hi Jenkins

     Springer are Magic to build and Sail

       Ref   Your question on ACTion units  have a look at

             http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/BEC.pdf

             http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/ESCs.pdf

    Timo2

[shipmate60]

Action electronics are recommended on here because of their reliability and if you do connect it up the wrong way or do something else that they weren't designed for Dave (FLJ) will repair them for a reasonable price as they are serviceable.
The Speed Controllers do not have a BEC fitted internally as there is a possibility that this can cause problems with interference.
Dave does however sell a stand-alone BEC that is outwith the case.

Bob

[DickyD]

With Daves speed controllers you either buy the seperate Bec or a 4AA rechargeable supply for the receiver.

[jenkins]

Thanks for the information everyone,

The serviceability and the separate bec are a plus for Dave and action electronics. I would need to get a "P80 CONDOR 20/2' AUTOSET Computer SPEED CONTROLLER" £41.00 with a bec £8.71. Total £49.71. If I look at Cornwall model boats http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/viper_25mm.html with a bec £31.89. Does a separate bec make so much more of a difference? Also as long and I don't use the speed controller for the wrong purpose I should hopefully not break it. I suppose it is all a matter of opinion but any other reasons for action electronics?

As far as motors and gearboxes what are other people using, A direct drive means that my springer can go faster but then does not have as much torque when pushing etc. But as it is a springer it can not go that fast anyway with out risking flooding i guess.

[DickyD]

The P80 is £ 33.00 not £ 41.00.

[jenkins]

The P80 is £ 33.00 not £ 41.00.

Sorry my bad I read the £41.00 for the 80s as the price with vat. Not so much of a difference now I am tempted, I suppose there is postage costs  but... Dave is the model show in November. hmm tepmpted

[DickyD]

You wont get better,

[CGAux26]

I run two of the 6 volt 4 amp-hour batteries in my Springer, connected in parallel.  They are on platforms at the bottom of the curve of the hull, and are held by Velcro strips on the bottoms and on the sides against the hull.  The batteries lay on their narrow sides.  I can launch the boat with a "Springer launch," a.k.a. throwing it, and play rough and tumble water polo, and the batteries have never moved.  I run all day on a charge and seldom come home with less than 6.1 volts left.

Add a 3/16 inch wide "V" to the trailing edge of the rudder to improve the turning radius.  Get the prop shaft as near level as possible to minimize the boat's tendency to dive at full speed. 

[Big Ada]

I think this is what CGAux26 is refering to, re the rudder its called a Fish Tail Rudder and it enables the boat to turn through 360 degrees in its own length.

[jenkins]

Thanks for the pictures and advice I am going to try and get some wood after work on friday .

[Big Ada]

Hi Jenkins,
Skips are a great source of Model Boat building materials. 

Len.

[arrow5]

That is skips as in dumps, recycling centres as they prefer to be called.  I`ve found quality , ie old, wooden drawers a good source of Springer parts.

[jenkins]

I will have a look, I am sending someone to howes tomorrow what prop-shaft diameter should I get?

[arrow5]

4mm shaft in whatever tube size, most suitable props are 4mm thread.

[jenkins]

Thanks for the prop shaft information, I have a hull now it needs some work to tidy it up.  I am trying to work out the length of the skeg and what the ideal dimensions are for a 4" surface area of the rudder. Can anyone please post some dimensions with a picture if possible.

[Timo2]

Hi Jenkins

       Have a look at   http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1058084

     Plus hundred's more Photos load of detail

    Timo2

[arrow5]

Timos picture shows standard 2"x2" rudder with square brass tube fitted as a "fishtail" variant. 

[jenkins]

Thanks for the picture if a 2" x 2" is a standard rudder I guess the 4" surface area set out by martin in http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3471.msg34786#msg34786 is only for one side of the rudder? I was using it for the total on both sides which explains why I was getting very small rudders in my drawings.