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Author Topic: British S Class  (Read 66279 times)

TomP

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British S Class
« on: November 11, 2010, 10:30:19 pm »

Hi, wondering if anyone can help? I recently collected my OTW Designs S class and what a fantastic sub. My question is were the weld lines as prominent as on this model, i have a load of pictures but none of the lower hull showing them. I'm not to worried about them because i think it looks fantastic but would like to make it as realistic as possible. The picture is not my sub just the best i could find to show the weld lines, great looking sub whoever built it. Regards Tom


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kazzer

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2010, 05:49:19 pm »

http://www.moonrakers.com/submarines/S-Class-subs.mov

I think these pictures will answer your question
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2010, 01:59:42 pm »

Certainly did thank you. Tom
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kazzer

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2010, 09:07:22 pm »

Certainly did thank you. Tom

So which boat are you going to model after? 
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2010, 03:42:52 pm »

I haven’t made my mind up 100% but thinking it will be HMS Stonehenge as I have a lot of pictures of that boat. Haven’t done much on it yet just put keys to hold the 2 pieces of hull together. Spent most of my time messing with pneumatics to raise and lower the periscopes, front dive planes and the bollards. I want to put as much detail in as I can, I know I should concentrate on getting it on (or under) the water but enjoy the building process. Haven’t got the WTC yet but I like the setup of the OTW one will wait and see which way to go with it. I bought a load of miniature brass hinges so I can open the hatches on the deck and build a crane which folds down into its hatch. Just need some spare time to get to work on it. Tom 

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RonP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2010, 09:17:29 am »

Not sure if I am entirly right with this but I think the OTW "S" class is  loosely based around a group two "S" class and if so the hull was riveted and not welded.
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Mankster

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #6 on: November 19, 2010, 11:09:55 am »

The OTW S has a rear torpedo tube, which would make it a Group 3?

TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2010, 11:39:11 am »

Hi yeah taken this off wikipedia

HMS Stonehenge was an S class submarine of the Royal Navy, and part of the third group built of that class. She was built by Cammell Laird and launched on 23 March 1943.

She served in the Pacific, where she sank the Japanese merchant vessel Koryo Maru No.2 and the Japanese auxiliary minelayer Choko Maru. She left Trincomalee to patrol in the northern part of the Malacca Straits on 25 February 1944.[1] She was reported missing after failing to arrive at Ceylon on 20 March as expected. It is not known for sure what caused her sinking, but a mine was considered to be the most likely explanation.[2]
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2010, 11:41:03 am »

sorry not all on there

Third Group
Armament: six forward 21-inch (533 mm) torpedo tubes, one aft
thirteen torpedoes
one three-inch (76 mm) gun (QF 4-inch on later boats)
one 20 mm cannon
three .303-calibre machine gun
The third and by far the most numerous group of S-class submarines consisted of 50 boats. They were the largest and most heavily armed of the S-class and required more men to crew. They were one knot faster on the surface, but two knots slower when submerged. Most of the group were built at the yards of either Scotts, of Greenock or Cammell Laird & Co Limited, of Birkenhead, with a handful being built at Chatham, or by Vickers Armstrong Ltd, of Barrow-in-Furness. Construction was carried out throughout the war, particularly between 1941 and 1945. Equipped with a greater fuel capacity than their predecessors, they operated much further afield, in the Mediterranean and in the Pacific far east.

There were two distinct subgroups. The first were boats of 842 tons, comprising those ordered under the 1939 War Emergency, 1940 and 1941 Programmes (except Sea Devil and Scotsman), plus the Sturdy and Stygian of the 1942 Programme; these carried an external stern torpedo tube in addition to the six bow tubes. The second subgroup were boats of 814 tons, comprising the Sea Devil and Scotsman of the 1941 Programme, plus those ordered under the 1942 and 1943 Programmes (except Sturdy and Stygian); these carried no external torpedo tube, but had a thicker welded pressure hull providing for an operational depth limit of 350 feet - compared with the 300 feet limit in the first subgroup.

Losses continued to be high. Nine ships; P222, Saracen, Sahib, Sickle, Simoom, Splendid, Stonehenge, Stratagem and Syrtis were lost during the war, and Shakespeare and Strongbow were so badly damaged that they were written off and scrapped. Many surviving ships remained in service after the war. Sportsman, by now transferred to the French navy, was lost off Toulon in 1951 and Sidon was sunk after a torpedo malfunction in 1955.
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #9 on: November 22, 2010, 12:52:13 pm »

Started on the S class over the weekend, spent most of the time drilling, filing and swearing  >>:-(. Took ages cutting out the conning tower and then filing to get the floor in, but fits nicely now. I then started on the hull drilling out the torpedo openings and the forward flood holes. I soon got bored of all the drilling and filing so I decided to drill out the holes for the prop tubes and fitted the rear skeg and the A frame. I’ve only got another 166 holes to drill and file can’t wait!! Oh and I found the bow of the boat was not in line with the rest, so I made a cut down 1 side and straightened it out just need to fix it in that position. Only thing never done fibre glassing before so have been reading up on it before I brave to do it, I think I will try on something else first.    











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Deep Diver

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #10 on: November 23, 2010, 01:45:39 pm »

 If she is a Cammell Laird boat, contact the museum as they took photo's of all the boat's that they built before and after they left the slip, 
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pugwash

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #11 on: November 23, 2010, 02:09:31 pm »

Built by Cammell Laird 1943
Geoff
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #12 on: November 29, 2010, 11:02:52 pm »

Hi, I did a little bit more to cold to be in the workshop so made a mess on the kitchen table. Ive fitted the floor into the conning tower used styrene C channel to sit the brass photoetch on. I bought a GRP kit from Halfords to carry out repair on the bow picture 5 above. Simple question how best to go about it?? never done it before seems quite simple but don't want to mess it up any help I would be very gratefull. Regards Tom





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Subculture

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #13 on: November 30, 2010, 02:24:28 pm »

GRP work is relatively straightforward. This isn't the best weather to be doing it though- it helps if you work in the summer months, although you can do GRP work in colder conditions, you generally need a special accelerator to really get some extra heat into the resin.

Doing it indoors is likely to get you into bother, unless you're single (or want to be) as polyester resin pongs to high heaven.

The main things are to cut your cloth/matting before laying up, mix the resin and catalyst thoroughly and in the correct ratio, key up well any surfaces you are bonding to, and don't over do it with the resin- use just enough to wet out the cloth/matting well.

Whereabouts are you based?

Andy
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Davy1

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2010, 01:01:43 pm »

The Halford kits are pretty good, from my experience.
As Andy says the main problem will be getting things warm enough and not smelling the place out!
In practice, you could work in a shed or outhouse with some local heat to get room temperature and you only need to achieve this while the resin is setting (should no be more than  a few minutes.) Keep the resin somewhere warm until you need it.
You will find that the resin bonds very well, particulary if you key (roughen) the surface you are bonding to.
A cut down paintbrush is useful for "stippling" the resin into the mat. Rubber gloves and some acetone for cleaning everything also. (Watch the fire risk!)
And resin is easy to apply but hard to remove so mask off areas to avoid runs.
So low temperatures are not a complete bar to work.
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kazzer

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2010, 02:15:15 am »

The OTW S has a rear torpedo tube, which would make it a Group 3?

Also note, if they had a rear tube, then they also had only a 3" gun, to lighten the weight.  I'm fairly sure some class III boats didn't have a stern tube. It was an individual choice, depending on the circumstances.
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #16 on: December 19, 2010, 07:21:48 pm »

Not had much time lately so work on the S class has suffered. I’ve only been working on the conning tower, I have put a plasticard lining in to make it nice and smooth and added some up right supports. I’m looking forward to having some time off work and hopefully getting quite a lot done. Just need to save some pennies now for the dive module, unfortunately Santa can’t afford it!!





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kazzer

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #17 on: January 12, 2011, 02:00:02 am »

I haven’t made my mind up 100% but thinking it will be HMS Stonehenge as I have a lot of pictures of that boat.


I collect photo scans of the S Class boats. If you have them scanned, I'd love copies please.  I'll send you a CD of my collection as a swap.
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #18 on: April 10, 2012, 04:55:18 pm »

Wow can't believe it’s been over a year since I did anything on the S class. Due to a child and moving house it has been sat for a while with nothing much done, but I have cleaned it off ready to carry on. Still can't afford the dive module so for now going to make it a surface runner. Bought some 100mm acrylic tube so will fit this in for now with all the running bits in it. Made up the front cable well and fitted it to the deck also drilled and filed a few more holes. Just need to fix the front now after cutting it in half although it has straightened it out it was only 3 or 4mm probably wasn’t worth worrying about.
Don’t know if anyone out there has any pictures of the conning tower of an S class, I have searched the net and not really found any decent pictures of it just want to add a bit more detail.
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Subculture

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #19 on: April 10, 2012, 05:22:24 pm »

Any particular reason for going for 100mm diameter tubing?
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TomP

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #20 on: April 10, 2012, 08:33:45 pm »

Hi Andy, no reason really just so I could get the 2 motors side by side, also I think (possibly wrongly) that the OTW dive module for this is 100mm so the saddles would be ready to drop that in at some point. I have been told that the module needs to be quite high up in this sub to get the correct water line might have that wrong also but will speak to Bob about that closer to the time.  Cheers Tom
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Subculture

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #21 on: April 11, 2012, 08:09:25 am »

All the OTW modules I have seen have been 110mm, but if you can squeeze everything into the 100mm tube, that will work just fine. Anything that sits above the waterline needs to be displaced by the ballast tank, so if you want to keep the tank volume as small as possible, you should site the cylinder so that it sits at, or just below the waterline. This helps maximise static stability by keeping the buoyant forces as high as possible, and also gives you the option of siting batteries and/or lead ballast underneath the cylinder to get the weight as low down as you can.

You should take a look at Grimreapers OTW Vanguard thread on this forum for some invaluable tips on how to grow your own module.
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spooksgone

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2012, 09:40:14 am »

Hi there. You don't have to spend a fortune to make your model submerge. In the old day's [before acrylic modules] we just used to pump water in to a sealed ballast tank, which was situated in the centre of the model. you will have to make the ballast tank quite large as the water entering it will compress the air inside,and will not fill completely, and You will have to add baffles in to the tank as well to slow the water from "slopping" around. The tank will have to be big enough to support the weight of every thing above the water line, in you case, about 1.5kg's I guess. I have a really good water pump [12volt] that you can have for free, if it will help. This  system will make your model "sink" but as for running under the surface, you will need some sort of pitch controller on the rear planes, as the water in the tank will move around. Whilst on that subject, I think I am right in saying that, if your model hit's a cold spot of water it will lose some buoyancy, where as if it hit a warm spot it will rise slightly. Trial and error, have a go your self, you will not only learn a lot, but you will get a great deal of satisfaction. There were some articles written in mmi some years ago [about 15?] by a guy called Martyn Hartshorn] if you can get hold of them, they will be a great help to you. I am only trying to help here, I am no expert, I can tell you a little more about the orrigins of you hull if you like? Any way, if I can help, let me know.
Have fun.
Phill
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Subculture

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2012, 10:46:36 am »

I think I am right in saying that, if your model hit's a cold spot of water it will lose some buoyancy, where as if it hit a warm spot it will rise slightly.

Other way around- cold water is denser and provides more upthrust.
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spooksgone

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Re: British S Class
« Reply #24 on: May 26, 2012, 04:15:16 pm »

Thank's for that :-)
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