Hope this info help's.....These are the Tips & Build problems being reported via Germany that fall within the first 27 issues, at least us here have advance info to make informed decision's :)
1. Ensure the Keel is constructed straight and if possible use a building Jig.
2. Assemble the frames at right-angles, this is important otherwise the Hull could take on the shape of a banana.
3. Frame 33 (at the Bow) seems to be too wide and too long when compared with the original data from the Bismarck, Hachette have not supplied the Bow yet so we can't be sure re any alteration's that may be necessary at that point.
4. Issue 14 contain's the resin part D, some have found that this part is too small so they have cut it in half and enlarged it by a few mm.
If you do this then be aware that frame 43a may then not have the correct fit for resin part D.
Some complained to Hachette and received a replacement resin part D, this part in some cases has been found to differ in dimension's probaly as a result of the moulding process.
So the advice is you should carefuly examine resin part D regarding it's fit and size and decide what to do from there.
5. Resin part 70 (stern) supplied with issue 23 will have to be corrected if you want a true scale look, the hole where the Anchor is inserted is in the wrong place.
If you look at original photo's of the Bismarck you will notice that the Anchor must be placed much higher.
If you wish you can reduce some of part 66 (with issue 21) to make the Stern higher, or you can use filler and close the hole and then re drill/relocate the Anchor position, also some modellers have sanded down the Deck by about 1-2mm and replaced the Stern.
6. After the first set of width planking of the Hull, the width at this point is the correct size for the scale, however with the addtion of a second width planking (around issue 44) this will make the Hull wider and as a result out of scale.
The second planking appears to be for the RC builders to strengthen the Hull, those building the static version have a choice.
7. Planking of the Bow will be a difficult process, the strips can be cut in half or soaked in water to make easier the bending task, these should then be pinned in place whilst the glue dry's using modelling pin's or very fine pin nails.
8. There are reports of the Stern frame 43a possibly being of the wrong dimensions or its incorrect manufacture, this is because when it comes to plank the Stern some reports advise that they have found that if you plank direct to the outline of 43a you end up with a depression spanning this point.
This can be easily overcome by carefully packing out the 43a frame edge with wood scraps so they jump the gap when the planks are located onto this former, the planks should smoothly flow across the Hull without being depressed.
Not all have found this problem so it is likey to be a few poorly manufactured 43a frames that have slipped the net or even possibly as a result of poor construction.
9. Hachette are to supply only two motors for the RC version, this means that only two of it's three propeller's will be active, the third (central) propeller will remain static but will give the appearance of the original ship's design.
If you do want to have an operating centre prop then you should start thinking about this early on with a view to sourcing the extra motor & parts etc you will need, you will also need to consider the ESC & wiring for this as that what is to be suplied may not be suitable, in addition to this also how a central prop might act on its steering once in water.
Issue 8 comes with Keel parts for the Stern, this is probably the time to look very closely at the installation of a third (central) motor & prop shaft.
Motor's etc are obviously not a problem for the static builders of this model as the series comes with all you need to replicate the original ship.