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[Down below]

Must have been taken whilst waitin for the mags

[Cargo]

Hehehe...

... but it was at last a qualified build... if he was awake 

[rem2007]

nice pic martin, don't slip off mate you could hurt yourself. anyway I'm just finishing week 12 and getting the hang of steaming and using a combination of pins and planking clamps. getting more confidence from all you other pros. well off to la  land
nite all
robert

[Martin (Admin)]

Hi Robert,
Are you chamfering the planks for a better fit?

Is anybody?

[Down below]

Yep me is as cant rely on the 2nd planking to seal any mishaps

[mark_1984]

Yup - me too :)  little effort with some 80 grit emery glued to a sanding block.  Have a look on my web site - it's a great tool

www.buildthebismarck.co.uk

[rem2007]

sir, yes sir camphered and polished......and if it moves salute it an if it dont move paint it!
robert

[Down below]

Am lucky enough to have a Dremel detail sander that has loads of moulded heads for awkward sanding detail and takes the pain out of sanding, just a shame I cant find a tool just as fast for the planking as not looking forward to the 2nd round :-\

[Down below]

Martin

Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare

[Martin (Admin)]

Not thought that far ahead yet.
I might just use V blocks silicon sealant and a couple of springs..... nice and quiet.

Martin

Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare

[Down below]

Well posh

[marki53]

Martin

Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare

no problem, motors are simply screwed to the bracket

already had to dismount the motors for treating the inside of the hull with pore filler...

cheers

markus

[Martin (Admin)]

Hi Marki,
The only reason I say that is I don't know what parts of the deck will be removeable yet.
Lift off motors in V block is the easiest I can think off..... unless some else knows a better idea..... 

[Down below]

Martin

Just a thought, would it not be wise to mount your ply motor blocks in a way so that the motors can be removed if need be shoud one of them dies a death?
As if you simply epoxy the mount blocks into place on the hull getting a motor out could well be a nightmare

no problem, motors are simply screwed to the bracket

already had to dismount the motors for treating the inside of the hull with pore filler...

cheers

markus

This is what I was saying, the motors are simply screwed to the ply bracketsl in your assembly and the brackets are then glued to the hull with epoxy are they not?

It may be later difficult to access the removal of the motors from these brackets due to poor access and so he wont be able to remove the brackets from the hull either as they will have been glued to the hull.

This is why Martin is talking of a removable arrangement as if the access is restricted to the motors even with the removable deck then it will be fun getting the motors out if need be.

If you think it will be okay then fine, but if there is a chance it is not then it is a mess to put right later

[Martin (Admin)]

Just looking back on the deck structure, it looks like the whole deck comes of in two sections.
The rear sections looks like it goes back way pass the Motors, so motor removal shouldn't be a problem.
As say not sure yet, I'll cross that bridge when I need to! 

[slewis]

Q here .
Whats that in the polystyrene block ?

[Cargo]

Dynamite, if the english model-battle-cruisers cant sink his boat 

No, he has placed his batteries in there  :)

[slewis]

  I like your style mate !!
Shane

[Down below]

The scews that secure the motor's to the ply blocks might be hard to access with a screw driver as then run horizontally and not vertically, not much room between the servo rib and the screw head, maybe 3" at most but suppose it can be done

[marki53]

The scews that secure the motor's to the ply blocks might be hard to access with a screw driver as then run horizontally and not vertically, not much room between the servo rib and the screw head, maybe 3" at most but suppose it can be done

i use a shortened screwdriver for that

but i'ts still a bit fiddy...

markus

[HS93]

You could allways use Allen head bolts and a Allen key..  not shure how its spelt


Peter

[Down below]

The scews that secure the motor's to the ply blocks might be hard to access with a screw driver as then run horizontally and not vertically, not much room between the servo rib and the screw head, maybe 3" at most but suppose it can be done

i use a shortened screwdriver for that

but i'ts still a bit fiddy...

markus

Rest my case

Great idea Peter/HS93

[chingdevil]

If you use allen screws you can get allen keys with a ball end will let you tighten up and undo the screw at quite a sharp angle.I am am not sure how they are spelt most of the time I call them hex keys and screws

Brian

[Down below]

Thanks for that Brian...it just got better

[Martin (Admin)]

Just thumbing through the pile of magazines that have arrived this week, (thanks for sorting that Isabelle), and found the RC pack previously mentioned in this thread, the rudder set up is different for the RC version.




Also:

[marki53]

Just thumbing through the pile of magazines that have arrived this week, (thanks for sorting that Isabelle), and found the RC pack previously mentioned in this thread, the rudder set up is different for the RC version.

looks good , doesn't it ?


that's why i used my own propshaft/motor setup and a v-mixer instead of much too big rudders at the wrong place....

[Down below]

Martin -

Yes the rudder position is different for the RC version, according to Sergio (the designer of this model) he says this was the best position for the RC rudders being supplied as in performance on the water etc.

Marki -

Nice looking hull, yeah your rudders are slightly different both in appearance and position, but I would hardly say there is that much external difference between the two and what lies below the surface you wont see anyway

An awful lot of people will have pre-ordered the Hachette RC pack, take it you are not laughing directly at them for doing so ???
It seems that you take every possible opportunity in just about every web forum to do down the Hachette RC pack which might suggest you have an ulterior motive :-\

I don't think anyone expected to receive a top of the range RC setup such as yours, don't get me wrong what you have done to date looks the bis, but am sure if they wish to go that route then they will easily find you

Each to there own and it is down to personal choice so lets leave it at that as its starting to sound like a broken record and we have already been down this route previously


One question I do have for you, the actual ship has eyebrows on the Hull above the Bow & Stern Portholes, it seems from your photo that Amati have not included this detail on the model, is that correct or would you know if this detail is to be done by the builder, or if Amati are to provide something to give this detail?

My view is that these should be on the model as it is a detail of the model being accurate is it not?

[marki53]

One question I do have for you, the actual ship has eyebrows on the Hull above the Bow & Stern Portholes, it seems from your photo that Amati have not included this detail on the model, is that correct or would you know if this detail is to be done by the builder, or if Amati are to provide something to give this detail?

My view is that these should be on the model as it is a detail of the model being accurate is it not?

as far as i'm informed there will be no porthole eyebrows delivered by hachette.
so it seems we have to built them ourself - but this will be a horrible job
maybe a thin copper wire bend on a 3mm drill?
if they aren't delivered there will be no eyebrows on my ship...100% accuracy is not necessary (or even impossible?)

markus

[HS93]

I thinlk you can but etched brass ones   nice and flat.

Peter

[Down below]

Thanks for that Markus and I agree about it being a horrible task to undertake

If they don't incorporate these then its not good as all of the marketing on this kit is about its accuracy & detail

I agree there is no reason why the eyebrows cant be done ourselves, but there is also one other detail on these portholes, the holes themselves appear to be slightly sunken too so it it looks like the removal of material Will also be involved to create the detail, am no purist but I was on the understanding i was building an accurate model :-\

No disrespect to your model Markus as it looks great and no doubt the Hull portholes will look the same on everyones model if Amati don't supply this porthole detail, to me they simply look like a series of holes rather than replicating what they actually are if that makes any sense.

Its not good when we have spent in excess of £825+ for the RC version and would not mind if the model had not been described as " being reproduced from original plans and distinguishing itself through its accuracy and attention to detail".

I did not expect the model to be 100% accurate simply because of all the confusion of which plans are right and who says what, but the porthole detail is such an obvious detail to miss and is plainly visible on just about every photo you see of the Bismarck. I don't even think it is down to scaled down loss as the superstructure portholes appear to be of a similar size and yet they incorporate the eyebrows.

Oh well it looks like yet more work to do :(

[HS93]

I am not shore ,but at the scale you are working at I'm shore I have seen the brass mounts from servos used ( I think they call them Ferrel's), you just put tape over inside and use clear acrylic casting material and drip a spot in to seal, or buy a length and polish end and push in then cut off and polish back to seal there are not that many its not like building the queen Mary 1000 of the blighter's

Peter

[Down below]

This is what we are looking for both at the Bow & Stern as clearly seen here

[HS93]

I  dont think they are sunken its just the eybrow that makes it look that way just use some brass tube parted off  and a eybrow if you dont use a liner they will never look neat and the same size.

Peter

[Down below]

Thanks Peter, maybe a trick of the eye n all that

[Martin (Admin)]

Well I'm all up to date with the issues so I'll be working on part 17 tonight. 
I've aleready spotted a mistake I've made back at issue 12  >:( - supprised none of you spotted it  - you're slipping guys ::)


Anyway, just looking at the stern picture of Bismarck below ( above - depending on your forum profile! ), that anchor fits pretty snugly!!
How did the crew make sure it seated the right way round when it came up?

Also, I always wondered what those poles were for attached to the side of the ship.
I always thought they were anti torpedo net supports, turns out they are crew gang planks.... well I didn't know!  :-\
... you wouldn't want to come back late at night with a shandy or two inside you and slip on one of those getting aboard!