Topic: Resurrecting the Miranda (Read 13642 times)

broger · « **on:** June 24, 2011, 08:28:00 pm »

Hello all
I'm new to this forum and have joined becuse a very helpfull member Alius "Patternmaker" was kind enough to answer my call for help from UTube.
I started making the steam launch miranda some 20 years ago when I was working but failed miserably on the making of the hull.
The engine was made from scrap metal from the plans with exception of the crank that I turned out of one piece, it got up to 2,500 revs on air.
and ran nicely on steam but did not measure it as I was too excited at the time.
I'm now trying to make the hull again with the vast help know available on the internet.
My main failing at this stage(and I’m sure there will be many) is how to plank the hull.
The author of the plans produced an article over 3 months that I have copies of but just says skin it with 15tho ply and then plank it?
I've read plenty but really I learn more from Pictures!!
So as not to make my first post too long :-
Is there any one that has any pictures of the stages of planking.
Just running the planks from front to end is not correct but how do you know where to start?
Top, Bottom, a little of each, and is there a pattern as to when you fit what i think are called "fillets"

Thank you for any help you can give I've posted a picture of my engine in it's very sorry state of "Lofting" for 20 years.

Patternmaker · « **Reply #1 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:01:02 pm »

Welcome to the forum Alan

Start by dividing the Stem, Transom and hull moulds into 17 equal divisions this will give you the width of the planks at these positions, starting at the keel working up to the sheerline the planks will be tapered fore and Aft, if you find it does not quite work out you can fit stealer planks.
I personally would not use 15 tho plywood, I used 1/8” mahogany.

Mick

broger · « **Reply #2 on:** June 24, 2011, 09:19:28 pm »

Thanks Mick
I'm not sure what you said

but the pictures tell me a lot.
It looks like you have one full then one tappered?
What glue did you use to secure them?
Alan

Patternmaker · « **Reply #3 on:** June 24, 2011, 10:01:03 pm »

The only planks that are not tapered are the garboard planks next the keel.
A stealer plank is often used when the planks do not quite lie properly to the curvature of the hull the stealer
plank fills the gap, there is 1 stealer per side in the planking, you can just see them about 6" from the stem.
If you do not intend to varnish the hull below the waterline you could start planling from the sheerline
(deck level)

The glue I use is PU Polyurethane rapid adhesive.

Mick

broger · « **Reply #4 on:** June 25, 2011, 10:04:50 am »

Thanks Mick
I realy must learn these nautical terms

Yes I can see what you mean now, one is tappered to a point about 2" before the stern.
I'll let you know (with pictures) how I get on.

Alan

Bee · « **Reply #5 on:** June 28, 2011, 08:21:44 pm »

Have you looked through the Masterclass section of the forum? eg 1915 steam drifter gives some more info and post 6 shows some stealers quite clearly. I can't remember exactly where but there are some quite detailed instructions on planking for beginners somewhere on here.

Since you have built the Miranda engine you might look at the Paddleducks website steam section that shows how to rearrange the existing parts into an overhead crank paddler engine. In that guise it looks far better following a brilliant bit of lateral thinking by that contributor. Sadly the engine and boiler while interesting and working well do look rather ungainly in a launch.
http://www.paddleducks.co.uk/smf/index.php?topic=4923.0

dondecap · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2011, 11:21:09 pm »

hi mate.
planking method does varie according to hull shape.
but as you lay the planks and follow the hull curves it will become apparent where and when to taper a plank.
being sheeted in 'ply' or sheet wood [like a thick veneer] first at least you will only have to lay one layer of planks.

regards
don

broger · « **Reply #7 on:** June 30, 2011, 07:41:05 pm »

Thank you Gentlemen, some very useful info.
Bee, I've just looked at the Master Class and that is absolutly fantastic.
Just what I was looking for, O a picture is worth a 1,000 words!

The conversion of the Miranda Engine really is thinking outside the box.
Great Idea and a lot of work for the modeler has been averted.
I've posted a few pictures of the progress for you to see, things look a bit more shinny
now. I'm glad I used phosphor bronze for the cylinders and lube unit as I think it
gives a nice contrast.
Alan

broger · « **Reply #8 on:** July 07, 2011, 08:17:37 pm »

She is looking better know !

kno3 · « **Reply #9 on:** July 12, 2011, 12:29:23 am »

Looking good!

broger · « **Reply #10 on:** July 25, 2011, 05:30:28 pm »

Just in case you guys think I’ve left this, I haven’t I'm just having a really bad time trying to put the planks on this thing.
3 times I've started and still not got the hang of it (big pile of wood in the bin)

I can't find a video or picture step by step that tells you how to do it. (I'm dyslectic, can’t learn be words)
I found a pencil sketch on a web site that gave me an idea because I could not understand why Mick's (patternmaker)
plank was a funny shape, I hadn't realised that you have to taper the ends and curve them to meet the back and front bit!
I'm going to do it in cardboard first and then cut them from that template.
I let you know if I succeeded.

Alan

Patternmaker · « **Reply #11 on:** July 25, 2011, 05:55:56 pm »

Keep at it Alan, I'm sure you will get there in the end, we all have days when things don't go to plan, I have found its best to leave it for a while then go back to it.

Regards Mick

broger · « **Reply #12 on:** July 27, 2011, 03:32:48 pm »

Thanks Mick
I'm sure there must be a mathamatic way to do it but cut and past will have to do.
No one else.
Alan

Patternmaker · « **Reply #13 on:** July 27, 2011, 04:18:45 pm »

Allan, if you measure round each mould from the keel to the sheer line ( deck level ) the same at the stem and transom divide those measurements by 15, the amount of planks I would suggest, that will give you the
width of each plank at all moulds, all you have to do is taper the planks to those measurements, example 120mm measurement round the mould divided by 15= 10mm that would be the width of the plank at that mould.

Mick

broger · « **Reply #14 on:** July 29, 2011, 01:50:17 pm »

Thanks Mick
I've had a go at it in cardboard but these are strait planks
do you have to twist them into shape or do you have a 1" plank and cut a curved 1/2" plank from it.
This what I thought you where doing with the "Wide a Wake"
If I twist the planks at the stern to fit flat on the moulds they curve up towards the keel.
or do you leave them sticking up and sand them down after?
Here are a few pictures to see if I'm on the right track.
Alan

Patternmaker · « **Reply #15 on:** July 29, 2011, 03:20:57 pm »

Hi Allan,
Yes they will be straight planks and there will be a slight twist at the stern and bow, totally different to Wide A
Wake with such wide planks. Clinker planking is completely different to Carvel planking which is what you are
doing on Miranda you will find you will be able to edge bend your planks because they are a lot narrower but of course you must taper them fore & aft.
Do NOT leave them sticking up they must fit edge to edge to allow for sanding.

Mick

broger · « **Reply #16 on:** July 30, 2011, 10:44:11 am »

The Sun has risen and there is light at the end of the tunnel

Thanks Mick, I might as well email you at home as you seem to be my personnel tutor!
I really appreciate your help
best wishes
Alan

broger · « **Reply #17 on:** July 30, 2011, 10:49:14 am »

Sorry forgot to post my drawing
I've drawn the sizes and think this is right.
Alan

broger · « **Reply #18 on:** August 02, 2011, 01:35:59 pm »

Just thought I would show you that I'm making progress

Patternmaker · « **Reply #19 on:** August 02, 2011, 04:45:23 pm »

Looking good Alan, well done

Mick

broger · « **Reply #20 on:** August 02, 2011, 05:36:00 pm »

Thank you Mick
I appreciate your interest

broger · « **Reply #21 on:** August 06, 2011, 08:59:16 pm »

Starting to take shape,

Patternmaker · « **Reply #22 on:** August 06, 2011, 10:49:40 pm »

Hi Alan, its coming on a treat, keep up the good work.
I would have expected more comments and encouragement from other members of the forum being a new
member, its not as if you are a newbie to model boats having built your own engine and boiler.

Regards Mick

gondolier88 · « **Reply #23 on:** August 07, 2011, 11:32:00 am »

That's looking very good Alan, is it Iroko you've used for the planking? What glue have you used- it looks like Gorrilla Glue?

Greg

broger · « **Reply #24 on:** August 07, 2011, 02:50:51 pm »

Thank you gondolier88
I'm not sure what wood it is, It came from the Science Lab at school as we have just had a revamp.
I though it was some sort of mahogany?
As you can see I'm a man for metal. Wood now thats a whole new ball game.
All I can tell you is that it bends nice and stays in place with the type of glue that Mick (petternmaker) told
me to use.
It's called BELI-ZELL I've attached a copy of an article in Model Boat Magazine July 2009.
I hope you can read it.
It expands and fills the cracks. It is very easy to remove but I'm posting warts and all
You will never know when its rubbed down and polished.

Alan

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Author Topic: Resurrecting the Miranda (Read 13642 times)

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

Bee

dondecap

kno3

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

Patternmaker

Patternmaker