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[bobk]

Strange, but there's hardly any info online to help modellers learn how to do rigging for warships of 'only' 100 years old, rather than 200.  Quite a bit different, and photos from that era are not too helpful.  I had asked for help on an earlier thread ...  So I am 'having a go' based on the best info I can find and testing my limits at 1/96 scale.

The subject is HMS Skirmisher 1905, on which I am rebuilding detail work which was either missing or damaged.  So far so good, now I have made a start on the rigging which as you can see below needs restoration.  First up was the funnel stays (if that is the right term).   Beware - I don't know the names of most of these bits  
I tried numerous methods for the various fittings, brass & stainless wire using a tiny jig, tiny wooden blocks with holes for the tensioner bits  but at 5mm long this assembly proved beyond me. So I 'cheated' and used ready made bars with holes at each end.  Attachments points were made with loops of thin brass wire drilling to fit with an almost needle-sized drill.  Cyanoacrylate Glue worked better than epoxy as it cured quickly enough so I wasn't holding each bit in tension for more than 30 seconds.

Photo showing the finished funnel stays.  Not too bad I hope.  Don't look too closely at surrounding rigging as that will all be going too.
 click to enlarge

I intend updating this topic as I complete each stage.  Please feel free to suggest corrections or better techniques as I experiment  .

[bobk]

I was hoping for some guidance, never having rigged a warship before.  OK, so I have pressed on based upon the best info I've been able to glean from photos paintings and postcards from that era.  Story so far . . .

I still have the ratlines to fit to the shrouds, plus rigging the davits and boats.


The signal halyards were fun, especially the belaying pin rails to tie off the lines.  Thanks to Deans for the cast blocks.


Detail of the main mast base.  The brass belaying pins were microscopic.


I had to use sheering elastic & rings for standing rigging between the masts as the centre and rear sections of the deck have to be removable.


Any ideas on how to do the ratlines please?  I am right at the limits of my eyesight & dexterity.
Next up is rigging the davits, which should prove a challenge, see original below . . .

[rmaddock]

I'm sorry I don't have any advice to offer Bob but I would pipe up and say what a nice ship she is and worth the effort.
Keep it up! You could become the world's leading expert on turn of the century rigging.

[bobk]

Thanks for your kind words.  I am bound to have many technical errors, but have done my best based on very limited information, and what seems logical.  When in doubt (ie most of the time) I have gone for what I think would look good rather than utmost authenticity.
At least this is proving a valuable learning exercise before I start my new Deans HMS Amazon destroyer of the same era.

[pugwash]

Bob I have never had to do ratlines, but when I was making up wire radio aerials for one ship I had to make up four identical
strings with the insulaters and connecting wires all in the same place. I drew them on paper and  using double sided sticky tape
stuck the paper to 1/2" x 3" block of balsa that was long enough.  Then put drawing pins in as required and tensioned the wires
between the pins and then fitted and glued them together.  I think my system would work just the same for ratlines.

Geoff

[bobk]

Thank you Geoff.  I will try that out on a test piece.  Heck, it is all so small at 1/96. 

[pugwash]

Know what you mean Bob - As my ability slowly improves my eyesight seems to deteriorate by the same amount.
So now I know how to do it but can't see to carry it out.

Geoff

[John W E]

hi Bob  is this method any good to you, its a slight variation on the method which Positive uses, when he builds his miniature sailing ships.

The copper wire comes from either 13 amp or 5 amp multi-strand flex (stripped of the insulation)
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=27339.msg279989#msg279989

aye
john

[bobk]

Thank you John.  I have just checked out his website . . .
http://www.miniatureships.blogspot.com/
Incredible work !   Some of his ships are not much larger than a ball point pen, and I thought 1/96 scale was small to rig.
Wow.  I feel as stunned as Piers Morgan at that Susan Boyle audition  

[Positive]

Thanks for comments on my models.      Although they are small, they are really a lot easier to rig than larger ones for the simple reason there are NO KNOTS.    The copper wire is straightened by simply stretching it slightly with two small pairs of pliers.   It is then picked up with tweezers and each end dipped in glue and placed in position on the model.

Bob

[bobk]

Positive:  Your models are such beautiful miniatures.  Searching the forum I found more info on techniques from your postings.  eg "Small Tall Ships" and more.  It was indeed the knots that were daunting me, and how to keep the shrouds / ratlines from looking like a badly made saggy spiders web.  I am now going to try a sample in black enamelled copper wire as you had written in one of your postings.  Thank you for that excellent tip.  Maybe 0.5 / 0.3 dia at 1/96 ?  
Could also make things easier on rigging the davits too.

[Positive]

Thanks,
I went from 8'=1" literally overnight to 32'=1" in the early 70s and found it much easier from the start.     Neither am I in the first flush of youth being almost 68.    I only wear reading glasses for the rigging.   I have always believed  that if you can see well enough to read, you can make miniatures, as not many items are smaller than letters or punctuation marks.

Neither am I speaking from the point of view of the fortunates with perfect eyesight as I feel I am only about average for my age.    This one, of four-masted barque DONNA FRANCISCA , I built a couple of years ago.    I began it the morning after essential  laser eye surgey, to prove to myself and others that I was still OK!
Bob