Topic: 3 Lifeboat builds, What goes into a model kit. (Read 322614 times)

nhp651 · « **Reply #175 on:** January 19, 2012, 10:19:32 pm »

just googled them and even some on amazon.but they all quote 3/4" pipe clamp....what does that refer to..the diameter of the pipe they slot over???..........

I suppose they would work on 19mm copper pipe with enough lateral strength to clamp tight ???

Norseman · « **Reply #176 on:** January 19, 2012, 10:27:26 pm »

Copper is quite soft and malleable so as lengths increase won't it deform?
Can you not get steel or galvanised at 3/4"?

Dave

nhp651 · « **Reply #177 on:** January 19, 2012, 11:10:45 pm »

don't know dave..................s'pose I could have a look down the scrap yards...will have a look before I buy some clamps.
neil.

gregk9 · « **Reply #178 on:** January 19, 2012, 11:33:54 pm »

I'm pretty sure the steel pipe they run round garage workshops and the like, used as the "compressed air line" is 3/4 galvanised steel pipe. I dare say if you are freindly with your local garage, they might have an odd length of the stuff knocking about under a workshop bench thats just gathering dust.

Talisman · « **Reply #179 on:** January 20, 2012, 12:38:36 am »

Quote from: nhp651 on January 11, 2012, 11:17:14 pm

That is absolutely true, Mark...........they could just as easily be turned into cad drawings I suppose, but that also would be for the technically minded...........
I have to say though it would be lovely to be able to give the modeller a mass of pre cut internal deck support beams......save a huge amount of work.......

You have Mail...

Regards,
Kim

HS93 (RIP) · « **Reply #180 on:** January 20, 2012, 12:42:38 am »

try

http://www.axminster.co.uk/pipe-cramps-dept814864_pg1/

Peter

DickyD · « **Reply #181 on:** January 20, 2012, 12:49:45 am »

Loads of clamps here Neil. Some the same as RaaArtyGunner's ones.

http://www.besseytools.co.uk/index.html

RaaArtyGunner · « **Reply #182 on:** January 20, 2012, 06:11:29 am »

In OZ, galvanised pipe is still used for water reticulation and is readily available.

As mention by others, copper would be too soft, but I suppose any steel pipe would do.

nhp651 · « **Reply #183 on:** January 20, 2012, 08:29:08 am »

cheers chaps.........I used to make show cases for my models...helped sell them lol, and borrowed any amount of sash cramps from a mate who owned a pine furniture company, but sadly he went bottoms up a couple of years ago, and the cramps went to the ~~liquidiser~~ liquidater, (sharks that they are)....so may be able to get back to them

nhp651 · « **Reply #184 on:** January 22, 2012, 08:48:59 pm »

Had a break over the last few days, as my good lady needed a little TLC....not feeling too good.........some virus or other, but today I was shunted out into the garage by the kids who wanted to do someothing on the pooter.....so set about fitting the sub decks on all three boats.

These sub decks, made from 3mm ply give a substantial fixing for the printed overlay deck and also once certain beams have been cut out, the deck gives a very rigid support for the deck and any combing that needs to be fitted for the cabins to locate over.

I have thought of other ways in the past, but it worked well on the ALR and so thing why try mending something that ain't bust.

note how the sub deck cleanly takes the curve of the sheer of the boat, making it easy to trim the cabins to fit.

the boats shown in order are Mary Stanford, H F Bailey and Field Marshal and Mrs Smuts.

irishcarguy · « **Reply #185 on:** January 23, 2012, 06:54:02 am »

Hi Neil you have really done a lot since I went on holiday.I have now caught up with your build & I must say it is quite a brilliant series. You have convinced me to build a lifeboat, it is just now finding the cash for the Speedline Tamar which is what appeals to me, there is always bank robbery I suppose, LOL, holidays are great but cost an arm & a leg. I got hold of Adrian & he was ever so nice & helpful too, so I must take back the negative remark I made a few weeks ago on another thread. He tells me he is finding it hard to keep up, what with a regular job & sales exceeding all expectations & I gather he is a one man show. Keep up the good work & I will be watching every day, thanks again , Mick B.

nhp651 · « **Reply #186 on:** January 23, 2012, 10:16:19 am »

no probs, Mick....and if you still need me to have a chat, again no probs.
nice to talk to you on the phone too.
take care,

I'm off now to try to fit the decks for them all..........as Cpt Oates said some 100 years ago...."I might be gone some time"

furball · « **Reply #187 on:** January 23, 2012, 01:09:24 pm »

Neil, will you motorize & control these boats or are they literally just development mules to get the kit bits together (presuming of course that the kit won't ultimately contain motors, mounts and the like)?

Cheers

Lance

nhp651 · « **Reply #188 on:** January 23, 2012, 03:24:31 pm »

Hi Lance.....

Oh yes, these will be MY toys once I've finished them, and will all be motorised.that's as far as it goes though.

sadly where I sail at Fleetwood it's pointless putting in any other electronics such as lights, sound etc( although I've never put sound units in) because of the salt air and water.it very quickly corodes wiring to lights etc, and I put it in two models back in the 80's and they were none functional within a season....but yes definately motorised........

I would hope to have them ready for the Leicestershire bash on June 3rd, my birthday and Etherow later that month......I'll keep bashing on.
neil.

triumphjon · « **Reply #189 on:** January 23, 2012, 04:58:18 pm »

hi neil , why not try the route we do with the full sized boats and used tinned wire for all of the circuits ? jon

nhp651 · « **Reply #190 on:** January 23, 2012, 07:37:12 pm »

hi Jon......not technical enough for all that....will leave it to those who feel the desire to do that sort of thing..........it's taken me years to actually put crew on my models.....one step at a time, lol

nhp651 · « **Reply #191 on:** January 23, 2012, 09:38:44 pm »

Today was spent firstly sanding down the tops of the framework, sub decks and the bulwark edges and support beading all level with the subdecks and once that laborious job was made easy with my new toy, my sonic sander ( just unbelievable bit of kit) and then I set out making and cutting out card templates for the main decks of all three lifeboats, and then transfering those to 1.8mm birch faced ply, and cutting out.

these templates take into account the access to the well decks, and when finally glued onto the sub deck and the beading around the edge of the hull will make a totally waterproof and very strong structure for the printed planked overlays to be added to give the boats that planked deck effect.

before gluing the decks onto the boat they will be used to trace around for the screen prints and also for the shapes for the printed planked decks.a job for another day.

the photos show in order, the marking out of the bow, and then stern patterns of the Mary Stanford, the patterns cut and waiting, the ply decks that have been cut from the card patterns ( H F Bailey) and the ply deck pieces in place and ready for gluing to the sub deck of the Mary Stanford.

nhp651 · « **Reply #192 on:** January 24, 2012, 11:55:11 am »

Ohhh, for the power of batteries.....even dud ones.

the main deck on the Mary Stanford was glued to the sub deck and bulwarks today using Gorilla glue......not only will it stick like the preverbial, but as it foams up it will adhere to any uneven surface underneath the main deck....kill two birds with one stone,so to speak

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #193 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:13:52 pm »

My sort of engineering. Well done.

Can you tell me the working time with your Gorilla glue please as I've never used it and it looks just the stuff for me

Ken

Welsh Wizard · « **Reply #194 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:34:55 pm »

Ken I have used it YES it is GOOD stuff but lord help you if it gets on your hands YUCK I personally think that the new Gel glue Steve model boat bits is better and works a lot quicker and is defo cleaner to use

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #195 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:44:51 pm »

I was wondering about the thickness. Whether it was a major factor in any calculations, along with a 'slide' factor and working time ??

ken

Welsh Wizard · « **Reply #196 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:52:12 pm »

Slide factor NO problem working time NO probs either

Dave

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #197 on:** January 24, 2012, 08:53:48 pm »

You've put my mind at rest. I'll get some and try it.

Cheers

ken

nhp651 · « **Reply #198 on:** January 24, 2012, 09:02:42 pm »

Quote from: Welsh Wizard on January 24, 2012, 08:34:55 pm

Ken I have used it YES it is GOOD stuff but lord help you if it gets on your hands YUCK I personally think that the new Gel glue Steve model boat bits is better and works a lot quicker and is defo cleaner to use

Dave

actually dave..............it is Steve's that I am using, and as you say.......messy stuff.......I use silicon gloves when I'm using it........it's almost identical to Gorilla glue.............same colour same fizzy properties and according to the bottles same time to cure .....24 hours, but it goes off a lot quicker than Gorilla glue does, and as such you don't have the same working time to get everything clamped down.....but my god it sticks like wotsit to the blanket.

Also it's a lot cheaper and just as good as Gorilla glue and I would recommend a bottle in anyone's worksghop for those powerful jobs needed.

by fizzy, Kenny, I mean you put the glue onto one surface and onto the other surface to be joined, you lightly dampen the area with water and then clamp the two together....it all then reacts and foams up and expands, and if the two surfaces aren't clamped securely together the glue expands the joint instead of around it and they are forced apart.......so beware.....good clamps or cramps are needed. It is however a good filler of bigger gluing gaps, lol, and boy oh boy, sometimes I need that.

neil.

Tug-Kenny RIP · « **Reply #199 on:** January 24, 2012, 09:09:28 pm »

Cheers Neil. I'll give it a try. Bit worrying about the gloves. I have a pack of plastic ones for Ladies to dye their hair with. Any good ?

Ken

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Author Topic: 3 Lifeboat builds, What goes into a model kit. (Read 322614 times)

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Talisman

RaaArtyGunner

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furball

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triumphjon

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Welsh Wizard

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