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Author Topic: A laymans guide to tools in the workshop  (Read 8424 times)

Martin (Admin)

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A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« on: July 24, 2008, 12:06:22 pm »

Common Tools Explained       

To the uninitiated, the workshop can be an intimidating place, full of tools you may not know what to do with. To help, here's a helpful explanation of common tools and their uses.

DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted vertical stabilizer which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned cleco calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh "xxxxx"!"

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL:
Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW:
A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS:
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES:
Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub from which you want the bearing race removed.

TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an cars to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4:
Used for levering an car upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR:
A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminium sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER:
A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS:
See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER:
A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR:
A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER:
A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER:
Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE:
Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL:
Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.


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mikearace

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A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« Reply #1 on: December 24, 2011, 06:05:44 am »

Quick explanation of various tools used in graden sheds and garages throughout the worlkd (and the odd Chippy's Shop!)

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!'

SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VICE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity..

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering car to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

****ING P***E OF S**T TOOL: (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling '****ING P***E OF S**T!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

Hope you found this informative.
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derekwarner

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Re: A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« Reply #2 on: December 24, 2011, 07:53:54 am »

mmmmmmmmmmm ...........  :embarrassed: 9/10 there mikearace....I am not sure of the last line %%   :P

merry Christmas.........Derek 8)
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barryfoote

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Re: A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2011, 08:10:55 am »

I reckon those are fairly accurate descriptions.....at least in my workshop.. %% %%
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dougal99

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Re: A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2011, 08:33:40 am »


UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.



Who would use a utility knife on an package containing antiques ?   {:-{
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ZZ56

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Re: A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2011, 09:20:18 am »

Who would use a utility knife on an package containing antiques ?   {:-{

 {-)  Almost as funny as the original post!  Going to have to drop that on some hipsters I know.

If you were being serious, vinyl is actually coming back into fashion among people my age group, because it is 'retro' and supposedly offers a richer quality of sound than digital music files.  This is very important as most of the bands which record onto vinyl now sound like broken vaccuum cleaners trying to suck up a Beatles performance.   %)
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bobk

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Re: A laymans guide to tools in the workshop
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2011, 09:44:33 am »

CDs are convenient, like the audio tapes they replaced, but somehow a digitally remastered CD of say Buddy Holly totally lacks the rich depth and bass of the original vinyl recording.  Frankly I have far more vinyl LP's and singles than CD's, which I guess shows my age and view that latest albums worth listening to seem few and far between.

However, I have the best of both worlds with an Xion USB turntable.  I can play the records on my HiFi and import the original sound to my iTunes library.

PS on tools:  Dremel.  Tool for producing random squirly patterns on fibre glass hulls.
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Chris57

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Tools and how to use them effectively.
« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2016, 06:02:05 pm »






>SKIL SAW:(circular saw)
A portable cutting tool used to make boards too short.







BELT SANDER
:
An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.










WIRE WHEEL:
Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light.


Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh poop'.








DRILL PRESS:
A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.








Channel Locks:
Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.









HACKSAW:
One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.










VISE-GRIPS:(mole grips)
Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.















OXYACETYLENE TORCH:
Used almost entirely for igniting various flammable objects in your shop and creating a fire.


Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.






TABLE SAW:
A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.


Very effective for digit removal !!









HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK:
Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.










BAND SAW:
A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut large pieces into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.










TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST:
A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of all the crap you forgot to disconnect
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inertia

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Re: Tools and how to use them effectively.
« Reply #8 on: June 13, 2016, 06:49:06 pm »

Be honest - how many of you reading these definitions were nodding their heads silently?
Thanks, Chris.
DM
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ballastanksian

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Re: Tools and how to use them effectively.
« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2016, 08:05:30 pm »

On one or two instances yes!
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essex2visuvesi

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Re: Tools and how to use them effectively.
« Reply #10 on: June 13, 2016, 10:29:30 pm »

Some useful bolts
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Re: Tools and how to use them effectively.
« Reply #11 on: June 14, 2016, 09:43:40 am »


Love it   :-))     {-)

Great

ken
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Re: Tools and how to use them effectively.
« Reply #12 on: June 14, 2016, 12:02:19 pm »

I had a similar list posted on my workshop wall years ago.


SCREWDRIVER - An implement for removing lids from paint tins, resulting in contents of tin going solid before tin is half used.  :-))

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER:
 Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

HAMMER:
 Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.





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TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2017, 05:52:26 pm »

Friend sent me this from a full size boat forum. If it has been posted in the past mods please bin it.
Feel free to add to it.


Colin


As many of us 'tinker' with various things in order to keep them working because
a; We are too tight to purchase a replacement
b; It keeps us from having to go to Tesco with the Missus

This is a short inventory of equipment that every well stocked workshop should have.

Drill Press
:A tall upright machine, useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest, and flings your mug of tea across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

Abrasive Wire Wheel:Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench at the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers.All done in about the time it takes you to say, "Oh,Merde.

Skill Saw:Contrary to its name, this is a portable cutting tool often used to make all kinds of engineering studs too short.

Hand Pliers
:Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. This is an often bloodstained hand tool, used to begin the process of rounding off bolt heads. (see Mole Grips)

Belt Sander:An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

Hack Saw:One of a large family of hand cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion and the more you attempt to influence its direction, the more dismal your project becomes.

Mole-Grips
:Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. (See Hand Pliers)

Oxyacetylene Cutting Torch:Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your workshop which are not already on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the tiller hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.

Table Saw
:A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood or metal projectiles for testing wall integrity.

Hydraulic Floor Jack
:Used for lowering a boat to the ground after you have installed your new tiller, whilst at the same time trapping the jack handle firmly under the base plate.

Second Hydraulic Floor Jack:Used for lifting a boat off the ground to free the trapped jack handle from under the base plate.

Band Saw
:A large stationary power saw primarily used in most workshops to cut good steel stock. Usually into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

Two-Ton Engine Hoist:A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect prior to beginning lifting operations.

Phillips Cross Cut Screwdriver
:Normally used to stab through vacuum seals and prising under paint tin lids. Also used for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt. Can also be used as the name implies, to strip out Phillips Screw heads.

Straight Flat Bladed Screwdriver:A tool often used for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and at the same time butchering your palms.

Pry Bar:A tool used to crumple and scratch any painted metal surrounding. Usually when removing a stubborn jubilee clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace the rusty cheap item with another non rusty cheap item

Hose and Piper Cutter:A tool generally used to make flexible hoses or fixed pipes too short for the available gap.

Ball Pein Hammer or American Screwdrive
r:Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts, located adjacent the object we are trying to hit.

Stanley Knife:Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door.Works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, rubber or plastic parts.Especially useful for slicing work clothes into workshop cleaning rags. Usually achieved while the clothes are still in use.

The Electric Hand Drill:This machine is used to spin pop rivets in a hole until the earth comes to an end. It will also spin out of whatever hole and make a crazy pattern on whatever you don't want marred faster than you can blink your eyes.

A Bastid Tool:Any handy tool such as a metal file that you grab and throw across the workshop whilst at the same time yelling "Bastid” at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need to continue with the job at hand. Also known as balm or mechanic's lube. Usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.

Workshop Light:The mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under boats. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that the apprentice can exchange them. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

Air Compressor
:A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Liverpool Boats that neatly rounds off their heads.

A Socket Set
:A precision engineered set of tools still supplied in Metric and Imperial sizes guaranteed not to fit any nut or bolt that requires urgent rotation. Whitworth Sockets were once used for working in older British workshops.They are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last hour. Includes a 10mm socket (allegedly).

Sump Plug Spanner:A specialist and much sought after tool for enabling you to direct hot and dirty engine oil down your sleeve.

Hand Spanner: Sometimes used as a colloquial term of derision. The hand spanner pretends to fit then will slip under maximum torque ensuring maximum damage to bolt heads rendering them knackered to the point that no other device will grip them. Also extremely good for damaging knuckles, often resulting in maximum blood loss and infection when mixed with grease and oil. (see Sump Plug Spanner).
Damage = Torque squared i.e. (d) = (t)2 N.B. It is normally safe to fling spanners across the engine room. Only the curved ones will return according to Sod's law of the boomerang effect. (See Socket Set)

Circlip Pliers:A specialist service tool for releasing captive circlips back into the wild.

First Aid Box:Where the tea and coffee are usually kept. Stocked with good biscuits, away from the kids.

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derekwarner

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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #14 on: November 03, 2017, 01:08:44 am »

Thanks Starspider......they are universally all true :-)) even down this end of the earth...& always worth a laugh {-) .... Derek
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jarvo

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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #15 on: November 03, 2017, 09:17:34 am »

Surprised there aren't more replies, this superb description of an everyday workshop!!!!!!!
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #16 on: November 03, 2017, 09:38:32 am »

Surprised there aren't more replies, this superb description of an everyday workshop!!!!!!!


 Quite so !
  Engineers Lathe.  Machine for placing chuck key into high earth orbit.
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jarvo

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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #17 on: November 03, 2017, 09:08:02 pm »

How about Pillar Drill chuck key for removing the Tea mug you have just made???
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2017, 09:52:20 pm »

Stanley Knife:  A cutting device that never opens when you want it in a hurry but is always open when you kneel on it thus requiring a trip to hospital and 3 stitches  <:(
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2017, 11:38:26 pm »

I bet everyone reading this is saying, done that, done that. %% {-)
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #20 on: November 04, 2017, 04:02:41 pm »

Er might have  %) %)
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #21 on: November 04, 2017, 06:31:58 pm »

Stanley Knife: A tool to ensure the maximum amount of blood goes onto any shrink wrapped magazine. Often used to remove the first 12 pages at the same time.
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #22 on: November 04, 2017, 07:44:18 pm »

Having a set of Torx bits that has every size bar the one you need; necessitating a trip to the nearest tool shop that stocks it, thus collecting even more drives which you will, probably, never use.

This emporium, I might add, stock Whitworth and AF sockets and spanners as well.

Sump plugs: Why on earth did Triumph use four-sided, tapered, sump plugs which no spanner or socket fitted properly? Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure my Maestro and Montego had the same.

Works shops: Why are they never big enough for all ones' tools and other equipment to be kept in one place.

LB
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #23 on: November 05, 2017, 07:23:08 pm »

Having a set of Torx bits that has every size bar the one you need; necessitating a trip to the nearest tool shop that stocks it, thus collecting even more drives which you will, probably, never use.

This emporium, I might add, stock Whitworth and AF sockets and spanners as well.

Sump plugs: Why on earth did Triumph use four-sided, tapered, sump plugs which no spanner or socket fitted properly? Come to think of it, I'm pretty sure my Maestro and Montego had the same.

 


 Nothin a 24" Stillson wrench would not sort.  But I had one that had a recessed hex socket , easiest solution was to park outside the neighbours and drop the sump.







LB
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Re: TOOL LIST EXPLANATIONS
« Reply #24 on: November 05, 2017, 10:36:29 pm »

No matter how big your band saw is, you will always find a job too large to fit. The same can be said for lathes as well.
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