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[boatmadman]

Superior knowledge shines through!

I am not worthy , oh mayhem one! 

[slewis]

Still not sure
I have googled the stingray option and according to the link below the 600  is only suitable for 16"-21" models
This one is 41"so not going to commit to buying one as yet . http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MFA-STINGRAY-600-MARINE-POWER-PACK-INCL-NICAD-BOATS_W0QQitemZ120111254300QQihZ002QQcategoryZ140972QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem


That said I will have to get something sorted real soon as I need to sort out a motor mount and then I intend upon f/g the interior of the hull for both strength and water proofing .

Why would an 850 rip it apart ?  I am struggling to understand boats and the associated terminology . Surely if its built strong it will take it ?

Again I bow down to superior knowledge  Its a new area for me  :)

Shane

[Martin (Admin)]

I was just wondering / concerned as Brian on the "Ormesby Cross" thread has used two Torpedo 850 motors in his big heavy tug!

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2322.msg37269#msg37269

[slewis]

Thanks for your help Martin .
I have just ordered a graupner 600 BB sp 9.6V motor and an Mtronik viper20 marine controller . Along with a 9.6V nimh pack .

These should get here for the weekend so I can start sorting out where I am going to fit them before resin coating the inside of the hull . Then its a load of sanding to smooth the outside down  :'(

More soon and thanks again

Shane

[glennb2006]

Hi Shane,

I admire your patience to start a build such as that one. I also am envious that you have the time to start a build like that one!!

Good luck with it, seems to be progressing well so far. As to motors, I am not an expert on electric power, but form my experiences in the past it has never been too much of a chew on to change motors in electric boats, so with the skills you clearly have it should not be too much of an issue for you to replace a motor if it is too small (Or big maybe?)

Good luck.

Glenn

[slewis]

I also am envious that you have the time to start a build like that one!!

Your joking aren't you !
I work 5 days a week from 6.30 am to 6 pm and 6 hours on a Saturday morning  painting cars . At the end of the day I am usually too knackered to do any modelling 
The only modeling time I get really is on a sunday so really time is precious and I try and do as much as I can each time .

Thanks for the compliments though  :)

Shane

[Martin (Admin)]

Your joking aren't you !
I work 5 days a week from 6.30 am to 6 pm and 6 hours on a Saturday morning painting cars .
Shane

Right boys ( and ladies! )
This IS going to be the best model boat paint job EVER! 

Martin

[glennb2006]

Your joking aren't you !
I work 5 days a week from 6.30 am to 6 pm and 6 hours on a Saturday morning painting cars .
Shane

Right boys ( and ladies! )
This IS going to be the best model boat paint job EVER! 

Martin

I just don't think it's going to look quite right in Candy apple red somehow Martin!!

Glenn

[slewis]

Well I  have no experience of painting model boats but I can post a couple of pics of my painting on model planes .
First up a cessna 182 Skylane and a scheme that was new at the time (in the real world)


I apologise in advance for the ugly git behind the model I he has obviously escaped from somewhere 


This last one is a Yt P38 which I decided to do in the porky 2 scheme , and rather than get transfers made for the graphics I wanted them painted on as per the original . I looked around for ages and in the end I found a person on RCMF.co.uk (you need to register) who does this sort of thing (actually just starting out )
He creates paint masks on his pc and cuts them out on a plotter .
The pic shows the start of a set of japanese flags , this is in a series of 2 masks which are marked so after 1 colour is applied the second mask is put on top and the second done ,   result perfect japanese flags !
ALL the markings on this plane were done the same way and not wanting to praise myself  it looked the dogs dangly bits !
I can give anyone contact details if they want masks done but it isnt a next day turnover  . He works full time as a fireman !
If anyone is interested to know   The wording above and below the jap flags is approx 2mm high !

Have fun

Shane

[glennb2006]

Clever stuff. The planes look really nice. 

Glenn

[kendalboatsman]

Hi Shane,

First model boat I ever built was the wooden kit of the Perkasa Torpedo Boat. That was 3ft long, having seen a lot of "slowly moving" Perkasa fast patrol boats powered by 540 class motors (just like the one Dumas recommend) I set out to make my Perkasa plane as she should. I used what was then the MFA Marlin power pack (comprising motor, manual speed control and propeller) this was powered up by a 7.2v 1400mah buggy racing pack. The Perkasa planed beautifully rising up at the bows as per the full size vessel.

I believe the MFA Torpedo 800 is the replacement for the old Marlin motor. Have you tried emailing MFA for advice?

Hope that helps

Clive :)

[shipmate60]

The MFA Torpedo 800 revs at 4000 rpm, the 850 close to 10000.
The 800 more suited to scale warships etc, my 6 foot destroyer has 2 of these fitted.
The Graupner 600 should give a good turn of speed with about 18000 rpm.
It might be worth under propping her and work up on prop size.

Bob

[slewis]

Thanks for that Bob .I will bear it all in mind when the powerplant gets here . So far I have only got a battery to stick in it !  :

Its been a bit of a no progress but lots done day today so no pics I am afraid .
I have sanded the lot down so I now have a smooth hull to put the final planking on . I have also filled any small gaps with balsa dust and thin CA . If you havent tried this please do so . Its a great way of filling small gaps , just push as much balsa dust as you can into the gap and carefully drop thin CA onto it , it sets rock hard and fills any small gaps. It IS a right pain to sand down though so be carefull with the CA .
I have also waterproofed the inside with polyeurathane resin which needs a fair few hours to cure so the hulls been put to one side overnight.
Getting bored looking at it I decided it was time to make a stand for it so I can work on it better on the bench and at the pool .
Hmmmm   where to start  ?
I got hold of the excess ply the frames came cnc cut in and used two of them as templates to make mdf frames for the hull to sit on. then made a couple of cross pieces and epoxied them together . These were then rubbed smoothish (no reason for a good finish) and sanding sealer was painted on . After this it has had one coat of primer and will be painted with gloss white (from cans ) tommorow .
At least I will now have a solid base for the model to be worked on .
I forgot to add that the profile of the hull (on the stand ) is edged with styrofoam borrowed from a skip at work 

Should be some piccys tommorow and more building 

Shane





ps Martin I still have no pass for the mayhem weekend 

[slewis]

Back to it !

First off the finished stand . Total build time about 45 minutes and that was allowing for the paint to dry 

Then it was onto some serious work for the day . First job was to fix the deck formers into position on top of the frames already in the hull paying carefull attention that the engle of each was inline with the frame underneath . As you can see it took a lot of clamps !


Once these had had chance to set The clamps were removed and I set about fixing the stringers in place down either side of the boat . Again ,as I did on some of the planking , the 1/4" x 1/8" spruce spars were dampened and left to dry out while being held (rather crudely ) in a rough shape of the hull .


These were then pinned and clamped into place along either side of the hull which as you can see starts at one end on the sheer then rises and then ends on the sheer at the other end.


Thats it for today apart from gluing the cockpit floor halves together then sanding them down and giving them a couple of coats of sanding sealer to leave a nice finish that gets painted grey at work tomorrow .
The destructions say nothing about the colour grey nor for that matter if they should be gloss,matt or satin finish so I guess I will spend a while tonight surfing the interweb and see if I can find a picture or two .

More soon

Shane

[slewis]

Todays little task after finishing work   was to install the cockpit sides and stain them .
So working from the front the first thing to be done was to paint up the cockpit floors which I did in the week at work with a dark grey Matt paint . I then carefully cut a small slot in the front cockpit floor and installed the throttle lever . I had toyed with making this the on/off switch but decided against it in the end due to space under the floor or rather lack of !
After the front cockpit floor was glued down I started with the mahogany veneer sheets which were sanded to fit and epoxied into place with loads of clamps and pins . I worked down the model doing all 3 cockpits and once happy with them gave them all a rub down with light sandpaper to remove any epoxy or rough spots . They HAD been sanded down on the bench before fitting but a quick rub over gave peace of mind.

Then it was time to stain them with a water based stain that came with the kit and required mixing in water as it came as a powder .
OK I know what you are thinking "water based stain ?? "
I had the same reservations myself , even more so when the destructions called for a water based clearcoat over the top !
Anyway I stained them with the supplied stain and after it had dried (about 10 minutes in this heat today) I started looking around the shed for a clearcoat and happened upon some Ronseal gloss clear . That will do the job 
The first coat is on and needs 6 hours before re coating , which it will need as the mahogany has drunk all that I gave it !

The stain looks a nice colour anyway 

I plan on a bit more building before the second coat of clear is applied in the morning then clear coat and leave overnight again   

More soon

Shane

[slewis]

Another couple of coats of varnish have been applied to the inside cockpits and have dried so its all systems go on the building again.
I built up the engine compartment cover and a similar hatch at the stern for access to the rudder and servo.

These were then removed from the hull and the deck subplanking was stuck down


Now then how to fill in the gaps on top of the sheer ? I followed instructions and built them up with 1/8" x1/2" balsa strips like so

These were then sanded down to the correct profile along the length of the hull using templates provided in the kit that are placed at each frame so you can check the profile as you go along .
That leaves me with this


and from the rear showing off the barrelback shape


Then the whole thing got a good sanding over to creat a nice smooth finish ready to accept the mahogany planking and to make sure the hatches sit nice and flush with the rest of the decking .

Thats all for today folks next up its mahogany planking time 

Shane

[bluebird]

Hi there Shane

I am answering your question about diagonal planking in mahogany on this build thread.  Bearing in mind this is the method that I used and it may be entirely different to anyone else's.   As fullleatherjacket says, 'if it suits you then use it'.

The material I used was supplied by JoTika Limited.  The mahogany planks were 5mm wide by 1/2mm thick.

The glue I use was EvoStick waterproof PVA.  Also, very thin dressmaking pins.   I roughly marked off, in the centre of the hull, the mid-section.  Drew from the keel to the gunnel and in your case it will be from the keel to your chine edge and drew a 45 degree angle from the keel.   The first plank was laid following this line I had marked on the hull and glued it and then held it in place with dressmaking pins.  From that first plank, I worked 5 planks to the front of the boat and 5 planks to the back of the boat.  That therefore gave me 11 planks in total.

I then turned the hull around and did exactly the same to this side (I repeated what I had done on one side to the other side).   

When the 22 pieces of timber had dried, I went back to my first side which I had started at.   I glued five more planks towards the bow, five more planks to the stern on that side - turned the hull around and repeated the process on the opposite side.   By this time the glue had dried on the set of planks on the opposite side.  Thus allowing me to carry on.

When I had finished planking the external planks, I light-sanded off to remove all hollows and bumps.   One mistake I made, I should have filled in the small holes that some of the dressmaking pins leave.  Because, when I epoxied the hull, I found my first coat would not penetrate/flow into the holes of the dressmaking - I had to staple hard the epoxy into the holes to fill them.

Ive included a couple of photographs which may give you some help. 

If you need any more help, or you dont understand give a shout.

aye
john e
bluebird

[slewis]

John many Thanks for that I understand how you have done that perfectly 
The only difference I am experiencing is that the planks are 1/8" (2mm ish) x 1/2" so are quite substantial to bend to the shape of the hull . Also they run from bow to stern in one complete length with stealers cut to fill in the gaps at the bow where it would be impossible to bend the planks to fit properly.
I think I may well try either steaming them or soaking in 50/50 ammonia /water mix for a few hours to soften them up a bit and give myself a fighting chance .
I have started on this planking already but only so far as 4 planks up from the chine and anything else will HAVE to have some serious softening to get it to follow the bow lines.
Practice makes perfect though and if I cock it up I can always re-doe it again .

Thanks again for the answer

Shane

[slewis]

I have been having a think about this and have come to the opinion that this mahogany I have is way to robust for the job in hand and as such will be contacting Jo-Tika in the morning and getting some ordered that is going to be more use to me . The 0.5 mm or 1mm would be easier to work with than this 1/8" I have here.
I am off down the shed now to have a measure up and count of the strips I have with the kit .

Shane

[slewis]

Ok I will own up and let you all know that 2 of the planks I had fitted have sprung loose  :'(
So it was time to have another go with what I have got in the box , figuring it must be the right stuff or it wouldnt of been packed !
So Not getting hold of any ammonia as places I went to didnt have any I looked around for another way of bending these strips and seem to of hit upon a cunning plan 
I found that if I hold my soldering iron in a vice and when hot run the plank over it while bending it to the rough outline needed it tends to hold its shape quite succesfully . Care of course must be taken to not actually burn the wood so keeping it moving at all times is a must.
This is where I am at now ..........


This pic shows a crudely made jig shaped to the hull which when taped tighly holds the planks flat on the hull .




The small triangular section will be cut to shape once the side is covered with as many full planks as I can fit .
I anticipate a lot of sanding and shaping of small pieces as I climb higher up the hull .

More tomorrow

Shane

[slewis]

Sorry for the lack of updates  but the camera battery died !

As it stands at the moment I am a trifle peed off ! I have been trying to get these 43" long planks fitted and its taking a very long time due to the twists in the wood , meaning that every plank has to be clamped into place and allowed to set before moving onto the next one . I.e one plank a day  >:(
Now after re reading the instructions on the last page I read this " on the original the planks were usually 12" or 24 " long and there is no reason why the model cannot be built along the same lines " !! WTF !  I could of finished it by now if that had been made clear before starting this planking ! Now I am stuck as I cannot do this on the other side as it would look weired , so am stuck with another week + doing the same to the other side !

I think my next build I am going to go with my intuition and sod the destructions !!

More soon
a slightly peed off..

Shane

[slewis]

Well not to be outdone, and while quietly thinking of removing what I had done and using smaller lengths of planking to make life a darn site easier for myself ,I decided to carry on and perservere with the full length planking I had started .
I twisted a few to match the shape of the bow and started again.
I now have this 



I also started on trying to bend 3 lengths of Mahogany planking almost 90 degrees to follow the shape of the bow . Luckily a jig was provided and it was a matter of gradually bending them. To do this I soaked 3  12" strips in warm water for about 10 minutes and pinned one end to the bench against the jig . Using a hot travel iron I basically ironed the plank slowly around the curve ,pinning it as I went . When dry it was virtually the shape I wanted so I did the other 2 the same way .
Then to finish it off I soaked them again and pinned all 3 to the jig and will leave them overnight to dry out naturally.


More soon

Shane

[slewis]

As an afterthought  What is that piece I have just bent known as ? Its called a stern post in the instructions but by my definition thats the wrong end !!! It runs down the front centre keel and up the bow .

Shane

[boatmadman]

Its the stem! (I think!)

Ian

[slewis]

Well its been a while since my last update so I suppose I should show you how far I have got !
I have (at last) finished the hull planking and it has had its first sanding downto lose the rough edges and get some curves back onto her .



Ignore the grey looking areas they are mahogany wood filler which I had a try out with before commiting it to the model . Its mahogany colour before sanding but turns this grey colour afterwards . Not to worry though because it does stain quite nicely and is barely noticable after a couple of coats .

More soon ...........

Shane

[slewis]

seeing as the weather has been glorious today I took the plunge and epoxied the stem post onto the hull strip by strip and held it in place while setting with copious amounts of masking tape .


After a couple of hours it was rock solid and sanded down to a knife edge at the front .
Then it was time to move onto a task which I was facing with a certain amount of trepidation as it has to be right first time !
Planking the deck ..

Firstly shaped sections were sanded down and trial fitted onto the deck and when happy it was out with the epoxy again and they were taped into place

Once again once dry  I started filling in the gaps with the supplied 3/8" mahogany strips and some 1/16" plastic strip . These were all carefully sanded down and shaped before fitting and after a few hours work I now have this  :)


I am happy with that and it will look fantastic once its all sanded down smooth ready for the stain .

More soon as I carry on with this during the week after work . I should get the whole deck done by next weekend and then its time to start fitting the motor and electrics .

Shane

[DickyD]

Starting to look something special now. Nice job.

[boatmadman]

Thats looking really nice now Shane - -keep up the good work

Ian

[colin-stevens]

realy looking good. question, did i read you write and saw you say you were going to stain the deck?
will this not also stainn the white caulkin(plastic)
realy hope not
all the best
colin

[boatmadman]

Just a thought, but will the stain stick to the plastic? Or will it leave an edge that might flake away?

 I would consider clear glass varnish.

Ian

[slewis]

good points chaps .
I have tried some out with scraps and as its a water based stain once its been applied to the wood it wipes quite easily off the plastic leaving it quite clean. It soaks into the wood and dries really quickly (within minutes) so I can easily remove it from the plastic leaving no flaking edges 

Thanks for the thoughts though it could of saved me some trouble later on

Shane

[mick]

Hello Shane, eagerly awaiting your next post.....Mick

[slewis]

Not that much to post really , the last few evenings and weekends have been spent finishing off the top deck planking which is now done all bar sanding down (last piece went on this evening )
I also put the transom planking on this evening so untill tommorow when I can remove all the tape holding it all flat   nothing to show I am afraid .
Tommorow I will take some pics of it completely planked and hopefully having a first sand down to get the curves in the right places ..

Shane

[slewis]

As promised some fully planked pics for you .
I did encounter a couple of problems with a couple of the planks while sanding down . I caught the sand paper edge on a high spot of one of the thin 1/8 planks around the edge and pulled a section of it off  >:( So thats where you will see masking tape in the pics holding a new piece in place while it sets !
I also had one of the transom planks spring loose from the ply sub planking so that is also reglued into place .
Anyway i waffle so here are some pics 

Shane

[boatmadman]

Superb job Shane. I hope you are going to varnish and not stain? Try on a test peice, but 6 or 7 coats of good quality varnish rubbed down in between with 1200 wet/dry will make a superb finish.

If you do go that way, dilute first varnish coat 50:50 with white spirit.

Ian