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[merriman]

[unbuiltnautilus]

Is the Vanguard effect a mesh laid directly on to the model?
The other photos show the value of close observation of your subject, mixed with a little artistic licence to emphasise the final effect. The 'Merriman' effect shown to the usual high standard.
Model weathering seems to be a subject upon which we are always learning ( Stealing? ) from others, right back to the excellent series of books from Shep Paine, through the various techniques seen mostly in military and aviation mags. Why does the marine community seem to be slow to pick up these techniques. come on guys and gals, get weathering...that means you too Ben!

[merriman]

... Yes, stock window-screen material was used to achieve the tile effect. Best to get the plastic screen material; more pliable and much easier to negotiate around compound cures than traditional metal screen material. The trick is to use a section of it, secured at one corner of the model (onto some masking material so you don't damage the paint-work) with tape, push the screen flat to the models surface as you spray on a darker/lighter shade of the substrate color, then to move your hand to a new section of screen, holding that flat and shooting again, and so on. I first tried this technique simulating tiles on a space-shuttle model -- back in the days when the earth was still warm.

Orient the screen 45-degrees to the models axis and your putting down a 'geodetic' pattern, such as what is evidenced under a weather beaten GRP sonar window, as I'm depicting on this SKIPJACK model:












As to why people don't properly paint their model submarines: Hell, beats me. Why put all that effort into getting the damned thing running and not paint it up right?!....

David

[merriman]

The degree, type, and colors of the discoloration of a submarines below waterline structure depends on pier-side-to-underway time, time between hull scrubbings (in water and drydock), water temperature and location, amount and time of variances of surface trim draft, and anti-foul paint chemistry.

Some submarines spend most of their time out of water, such as the Japanese KAIRYU's, and KAITEN craft, and other marine rail-way or shipped launched midgets -- these will evidence the same streaking and weathering effects along the entire structure. No obvious waterline or marine growth.

American front-line submarines beginning a patrol or recently launched -- such as the hand held 1/96 LOS ANGLES below -- will evidence only a slight scum-line and 'sea grass' from waterline down, with little bleaching or marine growth. Same with the little used, but extensively maintained SEAWOLF (the CARTER on the other hand is being put to good use and is likely rather rough looking these day).

The 1/96 OHIO represents a boomer long on patrol, with several patrol cycles behind it since the last dry-docking. And note the scuffed anti-skid paint atop the deck and sail planes. This a well maintained, but hard working boat.

The two SF boats, the FLYING-SUBMAIRNE and SEAVIEW had little if any weathering, as was the case with the many effects miniatures they were based on.

The ALLIGATOR, an effects miniatures, was weathered to represent a short-lived Civil War era submarine that spent a lot of time out of water. Most of it's in-water time spent tied up to a pier in brackish water. The narrow scum-line and rusting between riveted plates reflecting such use.

Bottom line: below waterline 'weathering' is varied and prominent or nonexistent.

David

[unbuiltnautilus]

Okay, Nautilus time.

I am currently restoring, rebuilding etc a Nautilus by Engel, follow my obsessions elsewhere on the forum. I have reached the painting stages and have been documenting them, what follows should translate beyond submarines and be of use to surface vessels as well. Nothing here is new, you just need to know where to look to find these techniques.

[unbuiltnautilus]

The first image above shows the model prior to painting, I have been experimenting with schemes and effects while working on other aspects of the model.
The second image shows a coat of matt chocolate brown acrylic  applied from a rattle can over the entire finish. This is my new base colour.
Next I proceeded to build up a mix of colours on top of the brown, to provide a bit of depth. These included a copper colour, two greens and a little bit of mid grey. all from rattle cans.  The specific colours are not important at this stage, they are just providing a base to proceed to the next part of the paint job.

[unbuiltnautilus]

With the model looking very metallic and generally shiney, it was time to tone down the look of the model. For this stage I used my faithful Badger 200 Airbrush ( as my two cheaper chinese models had decided to cease to function at the critical moment. ). The first job was to reduce the reflective look of the model. Most reflections were coming from the rivets and any corners or edges. I used a Tamiya olive drab colour, suitably thinned, the sprayed over all the rivet lines and any deck or supersructure edges. This toned down the look greatly and didn't take long to complete.

[unbuiltnautilus]

The next stage was to lightly blow a Tamiya light buff colour into the larger panel areas, taking the speckly look away while not laying the colour on too thick. The effect was almost instant and could stand alone as a final finish as it was.

[unbuiltnautilus]

As I still had some paint left in the Badger brush, I added some darker colour to the mix and blew in some streaking around the slots in the forward casing, always in a general downward direction. Indicating the way muck etc runs down and around a sub.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Now the model had a good layer of colour on it, nice and matt, it was time to start abusing it!
A good technique I discovered by accident involved buffing a matt finish with a piece of cloth. This gives it a slightly satin sheen which gives the finish a bit of 'interest', not just flat matt. This has developed into an effect that can be obtained using wire wool, scouring pads and sandpaper, as well as oily fingers ( good for buffing up a model of Capt Picards head! ). In this case I started with wire wool, the rivets reduced this to a wire blob in short order. A magnet on a stick picked up most of the errant wire wool. Whatever is left can rust to its hearts content when the model gets wet.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Once again working in general downward strokes, I found the rivets provided a 'shadow' to the buffing and created more streaking down from said rivets. This was entirely unintentional but all helps with the look.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Now cleaned of all wire wool etc, I could move on to the bit I was looking forward to.
I have seen this method used on model tanks for a few years now and fancied having a go. The acrylic base would now come into its own.
I now started the next stage using artists oil paints, from a squeezy tube. The idea being to dot tiny amounts of differing colours on the model, then using a suitable thinner, blend the oils into the model, creating a further layer of effects.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Applied with a cocktail stick, I used a fair mix of colours, including Burnt Umber and Raw Umber ( brown and lighter brown! ) which seemed to be a Tankies favourite. The thinners I chose to use were low odour white spirits and the brush a 1/4" flat, red nylon one. The thing to remember is not to over do the thinners. I poured a little amount in a milk bottle screw cap lid and worked from that. Dipping the brush, then drying most of the thinner off of the brush on a bitt of kitchen roll. What was left was used to work the paint into the background colour, once again in an up and down fashion.

[unbuiltnautilus]

The two browns and a red brown were used to simulate a light rusting effect ( my theory is that Nemo may have been mad, but would he have made an advanced submarine that rusts like an old bucket? ), The yellow was worked into some of the panels, dark grey into corners to darken them, and the blue...that went a long way, covering everything it touched, and had to be used with extreme caution. I used it again in the centre of panels to enhance the metal sheet look of the model.

[unbuiltnautilus]

The advantage of the artist oils is their very slow drying time. Easily over 24 hours, allowing you to stand back, think a bit, and change things if needed. If I had used thinned acrylics for this effect, five minutes and it is dry, no amount of thinners will shift it without ruining everything that went before.
If you need to see the work in a different light, take a photograph using the cameras flash. This will highlight what you have done, sometimes frighteningly so!

[unbuiltnautilus]

Notice the little smudge of blue, I missed that, didn't see it till I looked at the photos the next day. Still came off with a little bit of thinners on a brush.
Once left to dry the effects blend in to the background.

[unbuiltnautilus]

And that is as far as I have got so far. The next stage will include an attempt to apply the blue green verdigris look of brass and copper to the parts that would be above the waterline.

[NFMike]

Very nice.

[longshanks]

Following this with interest, keep up the good work.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Okay, sub painters, come on, while I am fitting lights to Nautilus. Lets make this a 'go to' page for painting subs. So more paint jobs please....

[markit]

great work this will be looking out for more soon 

[essex2visuvesi]

Okay, sub painters, come on, while I am fitting lights to Nautilus. Lets make this a 'go to' page for painting subs. So more paint jobs please....

Are Static models acceptable?

[Big Ada]

Will you now have to remove the Un from your Name ?.
 
Len.

[unbuiltnautilus]

Static models are fine, most of the tanks I stole the techniques from didn't move

I still have another Nautilus to complete, so still Un.............. for a while yet!

[essex2visuvesi]

Static models are fine, most of the tanks I stole the techniques from didn't move

I still have another Nautilus to complete, so still Un.............. for a while yet!

Cool :)
Waiting on´delivery of Industria Mechanicas Long nosed submersible :)
http://industriamechanika.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=25


Should be fun to paint