Topic: Model Boat Newbie (Read 19145 times)

Mad_Mike · « **Reply #25 on:** September 13, 2012, 08:25:37 pm »

well kind of but its push fit not screw, but you can screw it on. what you need is a submarine motor:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Submarine-Modelling-Motor-/300728670690?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item4604d359e2

you just pull it off the motor spindle, prize it off by the prop hub though dont pull the blades. I have a prop of one of these on my current build

goBulawayo · « **Reply #26 on:** September 13, 2012, 08:41:47 pm »

Thanks Mad_Mike, I will try one of those

Wayne

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #27 on:** September 13, 2012, 09:49:43 pm »

These guys are good!

http://www.modelboatbits.com/shop/category_MICRO%2520PROPELLORS/MICRO-PROPELLORS.html?sessid=PZ4LC03aIZoVQtwZ82PZpYbuPLJWzOorQZV05xvQTK6PkR481QribxXLoEY0BgNf&shop_param=cid%3D%26

Mad_Mike · « **Reply #28 on:** September 13, 2012, 09:55:49 pm »

ive never seen those before ill add that to my favourites

goBulawayo · « **Reply #29 on:** September 13, 2012, 10:03:35 pm »

Very nice, thanks Martin - Stupid question time, how do I know if I need right or left hand props?

Stormbringer · « **Reply #30 on:** September 13, 2012, 10:17:31 pm »

single screw ship it doesnt really matter but twin screw usually you would use a r/h on 1 shaft and a l/h on other shaft

goBulawayo · « **Reply #31 on:** September 15, 2012, 02:42:29 pm »

Prop arrived today. looks good - I am waiting for the epoxy to dry after fitting the propshaft and will do pics then

Wayne

goBulawayo · « **Reply #32 on:** September 15, 2012, 09:53:35 pm »

Pics with prop, rudder, motor mock up - I don't think the coupling is tight enough so I am gonna acquire one with grub screws

Wayne

Stormbringer · « **Reply #33 on:** September 15, 2012, 10:03:10 pm »

are you putting a block of wood for the rudder post to come through ?

goBulawayo · « **Reply #34 on:** September 15, 2012, 10:16:53 pm »

Yes I will insert about 10mm thick piece of wood, then need to cut down the sleeve and the brass rudder spine

Stormbringer · « **Reply #35 on:** September 15, 2012, 10:26:01 pm »

cool

Mad_Mike · « **Reply #36 on:** September 16, 2012, 11:20:14 am »

If you went with a 20mm prop that coupling should be ok. Im using 2mm stuff for my current built and im using a peice of wire sheathing for a coupling its more than adqequate. You will find that a the couplings with grub screws and overly chunky, and possibly even too stiff for the motor to spin threw an angle.

goBulawayo · « **Reply #37 on:** September 16, 2012, 12:11:10 pm »

Thanks Mad_Mike - I tried running the motor and the prop shaft is just sliding out the coupling (and that's only with 1.5v attached) - How do I stop the propshaft slipping down its tube and therefore out of the coupling?

Wayne

Mad_Mike · « **Reply #38 on:** September 16, 2012, 01:26:32 pm »

hmm that is baggy

even if you put on a collet of something to stop the propshaft sliding down the coupling will slip underload and even worse when wet. I trust you put the coupling on the right way round? the 2.3 end to the motor and 2mm to the shaft?

I personally in such circumstances would the glue the coupling to the shaft and motor with CA glue AFTER i had fixed and postioned the motor. It is rare that once the motor is in that you will need to take it out and if you do take it out its nothing that a bit leverage with a screw driver wont fix.

Alternatively if you got some old wire lying around you could use a peice of wire sheathing, if you havent dont bother. You just strip a peice of wire long enough to join both shafts, you need to choose a wire which is a tight fit to the thinner 2mm shaft you but with a nice thick wall. You then warm up the wire til its more plyable and push it on the larger 2.3mm motor shaft, when it cools it go hard again. I use my lighter for this but i suppose you could use hot water too. If you do use a lighter or a candle then dont burn the wire just heat it. Dont burn yourself either for that matter. when you got the wire on the shafts youl need to move it around a bit and get the the two aligned, it doesnt matter if they are at a bit of an angle but aligned, otherwise theyl vibrate. Heres one in my current build, keeps costs down:

If all fails then get one of these if your going to screw coupling route:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190578745359?var=490028614340&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2648

goBulawayo · « **Reply #39 on:** September 16, 2012, 02:47:21 pm »

Thanks I will give the wire sheathing a try

Wayne

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #40 on:** September 16, 2012, 02:47:34 pm »

Hmmm....

You know what? I suspect that, with that heavyish motor, that wide prop, and that thin, round-bottomed hull, you are going to experience considerable torque effect at high speed, leading to the boat tilting appreciably on the straight. You may want to consider the use of trim tabs....

goBulawayo · « **Reply #41 on:** September 16, 2012, 03:02:22 pm »

Right, strips of metal fixed to the stern that can be bent to straighten the boat?

Wayne

dodgy geezer · « **Reply #42 on:** September 16, 2012, 03:12:46 pm »

Correct.

You get more torque the faster you spin, and the wider the spinning item - so low revs would help, or running a smaller prop at high revs. But let us see how you go...

hmsantrim · « **Reply #43 on:** September 16, 2012, 04:05:08 pm »

Hi Wayne.
some 1/72 schnell boot stuff on the u-tube. builds of the model on googled sites click on the urls to go to sites.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=za6P4MFDxnU&feature=related

http://www.google.co.uk/search?sourceid=navclient&hl=en-GB&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGHP_en-GBGB453GB454&q=1%2f72+revell+s100+schnellboot+

Just making an observation you may have a problem of clearance with the tiller arm being so near the transom just wondered if you are going to get enough rudder angle to get
a decent turn at speed. I note the tiller arm is currently curved aft if you reversed this to curving forward removed one of the arms and angled the other up slightly you will
probably get a good clearance from contact with the transom. The connection between the rudder servo and the tiller arm will be at an angle but as long as the connection
between the two is a straight line it works. No the best pic but shows you what I am on about.

Frank

goBulawayo · « **Reply #44 on:** September 16, 2012, 04:19:56 pm »

Thanks hmsnatrim, I have turned the tiller arm around and it gives nearly 45 degree turn now, which I imagine should be enough. Hopefully my servo will arrive this week, I plan on mounting it just behind where the prop shaft goes through the hull.

goBulawayo · « **Reply #45 on:** September 20, 2012, 05:19:04 pm »

Hi All, I am thinking of buying the Giantcod 2.4ghz 4-Channel Mode2 Transmitter - see http://www.giantshark.co.uk/giantcod-24ghz-4channel-mode2-transmitter-p-403779.html

Now I have three boats in the making and I was thinking to keep costs down I will buy this set and two separate receivers and bind them to the transmitter as and when I want to use a specific boat. Question is can I use any Rx or must I use a specific one? I see the Rx with the set is 6 CH, I wouldn't mind having a 3/4 CH one for my Schnellboot and my one yacht. I see GiantCod sell a 2.4G 4Ch Frsky Rx, can I use this with the Tx above?

Also how do I go about working out what battery pack I will need? I have ordered this ESC http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280915472461?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649, this motor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261083061988?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 and this servo http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330587251395?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Thanks

Wayne

DickyD · « **Reply #46 on:** September 20, 2012, 05:23:32 pm »

What boats and what size ?

Netleyned · « **Reply #47 on:** September 20, 2012, 05:25:01 pm »

Just buy the receivers to go with the Tx.
The 6 ch rx's are what you want.
Just use 2 or 3 channels as needed.

Ned

goBulawayo · « **Reply #48 on:** September 20, 2012, 05:34:05 pm »

Quote from: DickyD on September 20, 2012, 05:23:32 pm

What boats and what size ?

One is a 1/72 revell schnellboot, the other a 36R krispie and the third a scratchbuild standoff scale of a 1975 design by Angelo Lavranos built in Rhodesia and used in the 1979 Cape to Rio race (1/15 scale making a yacht around 900mm long).

Wayne

goBulawayo · « **Reply #49 on:** September 20, 2012, 05:36:00 pm »

Quote from: Netleyned on September 20, 2012, 05:25:01 pm

Just buy the receivers to go with the Tx.
The 6 ch rx's are what you want.
Just use 2 or 3 channels as needed.

Ned

e
Thanks Ned, I was hoping to get at least one a bit smaller to use in my 1/72 schnellboot as I have a feeling the 6CH Rx is a bit big - I only need fwd/rev and rudder on the schnellboot - The 6CH will be OK for the yachts I reckon as they are about 900mm long each

Wayne

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Author Topic: Model Boat Newbie (Read 19145 times)