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[Helron]

Hi All, well this will now be the fourth time I am trying this post.  First I tried to attach all the pictures in one area before I noticed the small (more attachments).  Then having solved that I realized I had also missed the max individual size for photographs.  So off I went and resized all the fhotos. Now I have just received some boolean error about 5 pages long, so here goes again.
 
 Hi All,

My Dad built this model 40 plus years ago - all balsa construction. I don't know if he built from plans or if it was a kit. It originally had a steam engine installed and you had to set the tiller arm so that it went out into the pond, described a gentle arc and returned to you. It never did and I can remember as a kid having to wade all over to retrieve it - great fun. It was very slow and susceptible to any wind whatsoever. It is 650mm long with a beam at widest point of 18mm (25.5 inches - 7inches)

My Dad passed away in 2009 and with the model having survived (sort of) being stored in the garage and numerous moves, my brother and I have decided to rebuild/restore her. I was thinking of installing an electric power train. As a parkflyer this is going to be something different for sure.

As far as I can make out she is a 1958 /60 services launch used by the Metropolitan Police on the Thames.

Any help whatsoever, pics of models or the original, plans, and any tips regarding painting and waterproofing balsa and waterproofing electrics (basically anything you can help with) will really be appreciated. I normally fly foamie parkflyers, so this is all very advanced for me      Many thanks,   Vaughan

[Tug-Kenny RIP]

Hello Helron and welcome to Mayhem.

We like a trier and will do what we can to help you.

Best of luck

ken
 

[Arrow5]

Yep, its a Veron Police Launch.   The balsa seems to have held up well but I`d suggest sanding the paint off and glassing the hull. My version has 540 brushed motor but hasn`t seen the water yet ( too many other things to do )    I`m a park flyer , and  "normal" model planes too.  I`ve recieved your PM and will get in touch soon.

[essex2visuvesi]

As a park flier you know the basics and probably have a suitable motor/battery in your bits box.


As Arrow said, a standard 540 on 7.2V stick pack or 2 cell lipo should push that along nicely.  Or if you want a bit of madness you could go brushless

[Southern Sailor]

Hi Vaughan, I received your personal message thanks. To answer your queries:  If you are going to glass the boat make sure your finish with a good finishing coat and sanding smooth before you start painting.  I didn't and still suffer from dents in the surface.  As to whether to use a kit or build from scratch for your next project, I prefer to use a kit as my modelling skills, or my patience (I am still not sure which it is) are not up to building from scratch. Of course if it is a matter of cash then you may not have a choice but to start from scratch.  Don't be too ambitious - there is much to learn and this is easier on a simple kit as you really want to get to the water sooner rather than later.  Hope this helps. Don't be shy to ask.  The chaps on this forum are always ready to help.  Cheers and happy sailing. Brian

[Circlip]

Trust you saw my reply on the other forum Vaughan.
 Regards  Ian.
You might get some ideas from here :- http://www.thamespolicemuseum.org.uk/

[Helron]

Hi All, I owe you all an immense debt of gratitude, thanks for all the tips, help and encouragement.  I was on RC Groups for the planes so I started there and two of the guys referred me to this side of the pond as the model would be closer to home.
Circlip, Thanks I did get your reply 
Brian, the balsa is still in very good condition so I don't think I'm going to "glass" it.  At this stage I'm thinking of a good sanding and then using a 2k motor car duco that I will spray on.  Not sure if this is the best so pls comment.  Have been told that 2k has a chemical hardner and dryer and this will help with keeping everything dry and waterproof.
For the wood decking I was thinking normal yacht varnish diluted about 15 to 20 % then a light sanding and final coat undiluted, what do you guys think.
For power I am thinking a brushless 1400kv / 550 watt motor with 40-50A ESC using a 3 cell LiPo.  This might be overpowered but then I do have a throttle control.  Rather run slightly overpowered at half throttle than underpowered at full throttle.  This way no heat problems.
Scratching my head with mounting now and what length propellor shaft and size/pitch prop.
Thanks guys and please keep thetips coming.  Going flying tomorrow  so back to the boat on Monday night.
Vaughan

[pompebled]

For power I am thinking a brushless 1400kv / 550 watt motor with 40-50A ESC using a 3 cell LiPo.  This might be overpowered but then I do have a throttle control.  Rather run slightly overpowered at half throttle than underpowered at full throttle.  This way no heat problems.
Scratching my head with mounting now and what length propeller shaft and size/pitch prop. Vaughan

Hi Vaughan,

As you mentioned, 550W is rather a lot for a model this size (26") and it will 'fly', when full throttle is applied, bordering on undrivable, as the angle of the propshaft will reek havoc with the running attitude (lifting the stern and pushing the bow down).
Close to 14000 rpm under load at the prop is way too much for a subsurface drive with a steep propangle...

Depending on which ESC and motor you have in mind (got a link?), be aware of the fact that most brushless motor/ESC combo's tend to run (very) hot when used partial throttle for longer periods of time.

I managed to fry a motor with in a minute; the motor (a two pole inrunner), was too hot for the boat in question, making it impossible to get beyond half throttle without flipping the boat, after a few half throttle runs the motor overheated and smoke poured out of the hull.
The ESC was also very hot when the boat was retrieved, but the motor was the first to give in.

It's better to select a motor with a Kv that will run mostly full throttle, giving the boat a scale(ish) speed.

I use outrunners, as these tend to have more suitable Kv for scale boat purposes; mounted on a watercooled mount, the heat build-up is manageable, even at partial throttle.
A car ESC usually works better than a 'marine' one, better low end response.

Regards, Jan.

[roycv]

Hi, perhaps when you have rubbed down the deck and are satisfied try putting slightly thinned varnish on with a couple of thicknesses of rag wrapped around a finger.  I know it sounds crazy but you may be surprised how good the finish is.  There is no thickness to the varnish and no brush marks and no brush hairs to remove.  It dries quickly too.

On the power side I had a slightly smaller (20") boat and with full power it tried to turn over.  keep the boat light and 30 watts of power will be more than enough.
good luck, Roy

[Arrow5]

Any progress on the renovation Vaughan ?

[Helron]

Hi Duncan,
 
Got caught up with a new Parkzone Icon 5a and Radian Pro glider but have got back to the boat.  So far I have removed a false deck that my brother had installed at some time and then discovered that the original deck was in bad shape so I am busy removing this now.
 
My original ideas about power were way out and I will definitely be going for a much smaller motor with low Kv.  I should be able to match up a motor and esc through the local hobby shop.  Boating accessories and equipment for scale boates is virtually non-existant where I am, all you find are fast nitro speedboats.
 
Could you send me some pics of how you mounted your motor and esc? That will be a great help.
 
Will start posting some pics of how I'm going in the next few weeks.  Hope to finish in about three months, work permitting.
 
Cheers

[sparkey]

  I had a veron police launch in the 60s with a water cooled E.D. Fury went like stink, and I had to run like hell as it did't have radio,trying to
get to the other side of the pond before it did, great fun and great days,Ray [size=78%] [/size]

[Helron]

Duncan, I have sent you an email.

[Arrow5]

Replied, cheers.