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[weebaldy]

I hope this is not too silly, I did a search first and couldn't find a specific answer.


On checking the engine mounting on my pre built Anteo I have discovered that the Decaperm motor ( it has a built in mount) was screwed to "bits" of hardwood that seemed to have been stuck to the hull with something like car body filler.


When checking the motor it was obvious that the wood was loose so the motor was not really attached to the hull very well at all.  I have removed all the old wood and filler and would like to attach new sections of wood to the hull, so here is the question.


Do I use two part epoxy or do I need to go the whole hog and use an epoxy/ glass bandage mix to secure the wood to the floor of the hull in readiness for screwing the motor mount back in.


Just thought I would check what method you experienced peeps out there use.


Thanks for any advice you can offer.


Ray

[Perkasaman2]

Hi Ray, two part epoxy (5 minute type) is fine and more than strong enough, but remember, it can be a bit 'runny' albeit in slow motion - it will run out of gaps and level out by gravity. Use wood shims glued on the motor mount wood block if necessary to ensure alignment and 'free running' of the propshaft and motor. Sometimes car body filler like P38 is packed around the mounting blocks instead. There are other products and methods. Much depends on the contours of the hull. Hopefully other Mayhemmers will add their thoughts. 

[Coastal]

I spot a little bit of gluegun glue first to position the Mount and hold it in place , right in the middle of the mount, leave a gap all round then fill all edges with epoxy 5 minute.. sets them solid and in place with minimal fuss.

[CGAux26]

Make very sure your motor shaft is perfectly aligned with your prop shaft.  I make a motor mount by first cutting a piece of 1/8 to 1/4" plywood somewhat larger than the motor mount footprint.  Drill 2 or 4 holes and install blind mounting nuts from the bottom.  Paint or epoxy coat it if you like.  Make the motor mount from aluminum angle, with the bottom holes to match the blind mounting nut holes in the plywood baseplate.  Glue the plywood baseplate to the hull with 3M 5200 marine sealant.  It works like silicone sealant, but is much stronger after it sets.  It won't run like epoxy and fills any gaps under the baseplate.  Smooth it out around the baseplate with a wet finger, like silicone sealant.

[weebaldy]

Brilliant, thanks Guys, that is just what I needed.

[thething84]

just my quick imputer. using p38 to mount is pretty pointless as it has very little structural properties. It is merely a filler. Better off using P40 which has fibreglass strands in it to give a more structural bond.

[Stavros]

Read the painting section ref Filler and You will see what I have put about the useage of P38 for holding motor mounts etc in...........As the above poster has said it simply does not have any structural strenght whatsover.
 
 
Dave

[weebaldy]

Thanks again for all the advice, I like the look of the P40 and it also seems to be readily available in the UK. The 3m 5200 sounds really interesting as well but seems to be somewhat harder to find. I did find some large tubes in some online stores so will maybe try to get both.


All in all I know where to start now when securing new wood to the Hull for my motor mount.


Cheers Chaps

[kmmbcwebmaster]

I have found that P40 is  far stronger for fixing motor mounts have used for all my boats .how I do it is first you need to break the surface of the hull using a rough sandpaper or a rasp file then mix your p40 then tack mounts in place with cyan glue then squirt some of the cyan glue around the mounts then adding the P40 .with the chemical reaction between the P40 and the cyan glue it sets like concrete then just need to seal with a water based varnish when fully set .