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[seathug]

Hello
just to through a curve ball. I dont rate action at all. I am not saying they there not good but personally (had a few of there ese) i think there is better. I use Mtronics Viper marine . Since you live in Hawaii your nearest suppler may Hobby King. If I was you I would get my motor and props set up Then run them on a few different voltages noting performance and current pull then look at ESC. You might find your bow thruster can only run at 7.2vmax and your main drive runs best at 12v. once you have your test data you then can make a better judgment on ESC


john   

My dilema is I  kniw nothing ziltch about this hobby
I just wnat something that floats and run for now
I have a robbe geard 12v motor so far thats the only thing I have oh and my bow thruster yes its 7.2v
Since im still learning
Ill use one esc for both motors
But maybe later on I wan to use one esc for each motor
Thats why im thinking of the p94
I dont need to bother rewiring again if I was to go that set up

Ugh I cant make up my mind

[seathug]

If I can make this aziz kit works
Anybody can build an aziz
Hahah

[cos918]

why rush . Do some tests , then make your decision on technically data and your budget. On a tug I would go down the route of one esc per motor, you will have more fun with the model


john   

[seathug]

Do some tests?
How do I do that?

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

If you solder plugs to the motor wiring, you can make it easier to switch out and try
other options after the fact. It is then just a matter of creating a set of Y plugs that
you can plug into your ESC output wires, and split to the two motors.

Later you can just solder a plug to the additional ESC, and plug a motor into each ESC.

 

[seathug]

If you solder plugs to the motor wiring, you can make it easier to switch out and try
other options after the fact. It is then just a matter of creating a set of Y plugs that
you can plug into your ESC output wires, and split to the two motors.

Later you can just solder a plug to the additional ESC, and plug a motor into each ESC.

 

You make it sound so easy lol
But  I have no idea what youre saying lol

I know with one esc I can run two motors
I have seen the diagram from harbormodels
Let say ill add one more esc (one esc for each motor)
I know the motor goes to the esc and esc goes to the receiver
This part I have no clue how do you connect two esc on the receiver
Does it has two ports for esc?

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

Ghost2501 made some diagrams a while back.
Browse through these, you will find a couple that match up the options you are considering.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=783582


 

[seathug]

Thanx umi
Ill book marked that one
Im going to need that later

Im not even halfway there with my aziz
Im already thinking of getting a big tugboat
Hahahha
Whats a nice big tugboat easier to build than the aziz lol
The hardest part in building the aziz to me is the running gear
That I have encountered so far I should say
Evrything has to be aligned before gluing anything
I have taken it apart once
Hopefully this time its the right way

I saw a big supply vessel 53 inches?
Thats a nice vessel
I wish my aziz is that big lol

[inertia]

There are nine different ways of wiring up Aziz illustrated here, depending on what it is you want from the model. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ms.phpThere is also an article on the same website called "Do they both go round, mister?" which explains how to operate twin motors. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/art.php

MTroniks ESCs are fine but they do have a reputation for blowing up for no apparent reason. They are high-frequency units and this means that the motors emit a high-pitched squeal at low speeds. Some folk don't like this. If you are using more than one of them in a model you will need to disable the BEC in all but one of them. Finally they have a setting-up procedure which involves pushing a button while moving the transmitter stick and watching an LED. This isn't that complicated but some folk still have trouble with it, especially in multi-engined models.

In the six years they have been produced ACTion have sold over 3000 P94s and not one of them has been returned with fire damage. There is no setting up - the P94 automatically sets up its own neutrals every time you switch on. One customer has bought eleven of them, so clearly he does "rate" them!

You'll find that the cost of shipping a large model kit is your biggest headache, living at the end of the world as you do. We always advised customers in that position to ask the kit supplier to obtain everything else required to complete the model (e.g. motors, electronics, props, adhesives) and include it in the kit box. That way you're making best use of the shipping volume that you're paying for.

DM

[colin-d]

is it Eleven.... wow i was not counting... 
 
yes Dave they are good..     
 
we have even stightliy modified a couple of them... we have added a micro servo to turn the pot... so as the amount of mix can be changed while out on the pond... on a steering course... some time you need more and some time a lot less mixing..
 
works a treat..

[seathug]

There are nine different ways of wiring up Aziz illustrated here, depending on what it is you want from the model. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ms.phpThere is also an article on the same website called "Do they both go round, mister?" which explains how to operate twin motors. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/art.php

MTroniks ESCs are fine but they do have a reputation for blowing up for no apparent reason. They are high-frequency units and this means that the motors emit a high-pitched squeal at low speeds. Some folk don't like this. If you are using more than one of them in a model you will need to disable the BEC in all but one of them. Finally they have a setting-up procedure which involves pushing a button while moving the transmitter stick and watching an LED. This isn't that complicated but some folk still have trouble with it, especially in multi-engined models.

In the six years they have been produced ACTion have sold over 3000 P94s and not one of them has been returned with fire damage. There is no setting up - the P94 automatically sets up its own neutrals every time you switch on. One customer has bought eleven of them, so clearly he does "rate" them!

You'll find that the cost of shipping a large model kit is your biggest headache, living at the end of the world as you do. We always advised customers in that position to ask the kit supplier to obtain everything else required to complete the model (e.g. motors, electronics, props, adhesives) and include it in the kit box. That way you're making best use of the shipping volume that you're paying for.

DM

Hi inertia

Harbormodels have all kinds of stuff
But the things I want for my aziz they dont have
Its simple really
I just want to see it sail forward reverse turn left and right and use my bow thruster
Lights and among other things maybe later down the road
But since im already buying the parts to run it
Mine as well get the best I can get

Next time im going to get a tugboat
 I will make sure the dealer carry everything I needed
 

[david48]

Hi seathug
Have you looked at the instruction sheet for the P94 it is on the web . Dig it out and read it then read it a few times and it will come clear . I am building Billings Fairmount Alpine useing P94 as well as 2 P93s. It's all to do with motors slowing down as rudder is moved .
Good luck don't rush I have been at my build nearly 2 years ,not every day but something every week .
David

[NFMike]

Given the struggle you are having to understand this I think you might be best to pay the $200 to get the Action set. The advantage is that there are comprehensive diagrams and instructions for the Aziz kit readily available. I'm not saying it'll be a walk in the park, but it should be manageable - as long as you follow the instructions, which as a beginner you do seem reluctant to do at times (Kort/rudder installation fiasco, not using kit supplies for beams). Experimentation can be great fun, but you have to be prepared mentally and financially for more of it to fail than succeed.

You may save a few bucks getting some other ESCs from, eg. Hobbyking, but probably you will then be left with trying to figure out how to get it all connected and working.

[seathug]

Hi guys

Ok I have read and read and read some more about the p94
I am going to get that and tbe p93
Much easier for me to use

 some guys are using spectrum radio
what radios would you guys reccomend?
How many channels
maybe later on I would like to turn on and off lights using my radio
Thats about it


Thanx for all the help

[inertia]

IMHO you should look at a Hitec Optic 6 or 7. I have owned these, Futaba and Spektrum sets and I reckon the Hitec are better made. My everyday set is an Optic 6 and I've kept it in preference to 2 x Futaba's and a Spektrum. They are popular in the UK with the I/C powerboat fraternity, who are very fussy about reliability and ease of use.
The diagram for the Dutch Courage here (6th down the list) shows the basic P94 and P93 set-up with a 12v supply. http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/ms.php  You can add lights etc later on.
DM

[seathug]

Hi inertia

I was just about to ask
How I go about controlling the lights on and off from the radio transmitter?
I want to be able to do that


Wow this is the set up im looking for
Not  so complicated at all

[seathug]

By using p94 and p93 do I need the p92power distribution?

[Calimero]

A simple remote switch:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12615__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_EU_warehouse_.html

Unit uses one channel (momentary switch) on your TX and gives you 7 switchable circuits. Each press of the switch on your TX will cycle through the 7 outputs. There are 4 or 5 "patterns" the 7 circuits on or off. 500mah per circuit (3500mah total), that's around 25 LEDs per circuit. Should be more than enough.

First press: turn circuit 1 on (say: navigation lights)
Second press: turn circuit 2 on (say: deck lights)
Third press: turn circuit 3 on (at that time all three circuits are on)
And so on until all 7 circuits are on
Press: turn circuit 1 off (2-7 are still on)
Press: turn circuit 2 off
... and so on until all 7 circuits are off

It's definitely not the most flexible system especially on modern tugs with "complex" light setups. But it works great for simple requirements: navigation light + deck lights + search light. And it's only 10 bucks.

Others will probably suggest slightly more advanced devices. I'll probably build something around an arduino board later for my Odin. I'll go with one of those 1-to-7 remote switches in the mean time.

Some crazy Dutch guy (massive skills !) from the OSV Society even had his custom LED controller simulate the flickering of fluorescent lamps powering up, just like the real lights on the OSV's deck. Nice !


When wiring all your lights, I strongly suggest you wire/group them by function:
- navigation lights
- deck lights
--- upper deck
--- lower deck
--- floodlight (loading/towing arear)
--- bridge (and maybe even control panels/screens with optical fiber)
- towing lights
- restricted maneuverability
- anchor lights
- whatever else is on an OSV

Even if you plan on only installing a simple switching system (say just two circuits: navigation lights, deck lights). You'll be able to change the switching unit later to get finer control.

PS: I'm sure you'll loooove all the wiring and soldering. LEDs + resistors + switchboards. 

[seathug]

Wow thats great calimero thanx a lot
Ill make sure to get that at a later time
Not to afraid in soldering I think hahah
As long as I know what im supposed to do

Which leave me to another question here
The robbe geared motor
The can of the casing of the motor has a cover
That is also made of can
looks more like a protective sleeve?
It can slide to cover the holes on the can
Do I remove this thing of just leave it on
Can I solder the capacitor on that protective cover or I should ko with the motor can

[cos918]

on the motor front , leave the cove ron . it is some thing to do with the magnetic field I think.
Here is the switch i am using on my model.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221471782713?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


john

[seathug]

Hi john

Thanx ill leave it on there
And ill make sure to  solder capacitors on my motors

What is that switch for?

Ok I guess ill go ahead and order those  action thingy now
Its going to cost me around 239.45

[Calimero]

"My" switch has a single 6-12V input and will output the same voltage on all 7 outputs (max 0.5A). It is designed for low power applications with the same voltage across the board.


John's proposal has two independent circuits. As seen on the eBay page you could switch a 6V power supply on one circuit while the other circuit is 12V. And this module handles up to 10A per circuit. Useful for "power hungry" auxiliary functions but can of course be used for low power requirements (like LEDs).

[seathug]

Cant wait to get this
Finally a full set I needed with pictures to follow
hahah

ill order this when I finish here at work

[NFMike]

By using p94 and p93 do I need the p92power distribution?

Need is a tricky word. You need food, you don't 'need' an Aziz.
The set up shown in the diagram is 'ideal' and also maximises Action sales    (well it is their drawing).


The P92 and P95s are not essential, but you really should have a fuse between the battery and rest of the electrics. You will also have to split the power feeds to the 3 ESC portions and the other stuff you are talking about and also get 5V to the rx, so you will probably end up with a distribution board of some sort. So you can make your own, get another make, or get the P92.


The P95s are less essential. They basically have a fuse and LED indicators on them. The fuse will help to protect the system (ESC, motor and wiring from a serious motor overload or short; the LEDs can help with setting up and fault diagnosis. But they are more nice-to-have than needed.

[seathug]

Hi plague

I will copy that picture exactly how it is
That will be my set up
This way for sure I cant go wrong
Peace of mind